Steel door frames with 2. Dimensions of metal entrance doors with frame. Types of door frames

The steam room is the most important place in the bathhouse. To enjoy your stay in the steam room and experience the maximum benefit from its effects on the body, you need proper wall decoration.

The effect of the visit will be even more enhanced if the decoration of the steam bath is done with your own hands.

Selection of materials

To the question “How to decorate the inside of the bathhouse?” we can answer unequivocally that the most suitable material is - special panels for wall cladding, the main advantages of which include:

good microcirculation, allowing the walls to breathe
no condensation
pleasing to the eye appearance
ease of installation
reasonable cost

The best breeds Deciduous wood (aspen, larch, linden, alder, ash) has long been considered the starting material for the manufacture of lining, since walls made of them allow the room to quickly warm up, while at the same time remaining comfortable for humans in temperature.

This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore will not cause harm to health.

Of the listed species, the most preferred (and not only for wall cladding) is larch, but it is also the most expensive material.

Linden lining it is advisable to process it first with a special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) to preserve its original - almost white - color.

Due to its hardness, aspen lining is also a good cladding material, but experts prefer use it for ceilings and walls.

durable, resistant to decay process is ash, with the help of its beautiful core you can achieve an attractive effect.

Alder, which has a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can be a worthy material for finishing ( especially inside a bathhouse made of foam blocks).

It is not recommended to take it Birch is used as a starting material for lining due to its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during preparation.

If, for some reason, you still have to make lining from this rock, then you must take into account that it has a loose structure and in the process of preparing for use it will susceptible to drying out.

A relatively new material, which professionals advise using to cover walls in a steam room, is lining made from African oak Abash(or Abashi).

This coating has a number most valuable properties , thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:

low level of thermal conductivity;
lightness and at the same time strength;
resistance to deformation, absence of cracks and chips when sawing and drilling;
resistance to rotting;
the presence of a unique, beautiful pattern on the surface.

This material has only one drawback - it quite high cost. But it is covered by the properties mentioned above.

Whatever the source material the lining is made from, it must first be well dried and processed so that there are no roughnesses on it.

What can't be used in a steam room?

It is unacceptable to trim steam room with coniferous species (spruce, pine). The reasons for this are as follows:

when the walls are very hot, touching them can become unexpected and quite unpleasant;
drops of released resins can get on the skin and burn it.

It is not recommended to use hardwoods such as oak and walnut. This is due to their high heat capacity, which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.

In a steam room, the walls of which are covered with clapboard made of oak or walnut, usually It's difficult to breathe. In addition, if you accidentally touch them, you can burn your skin.

You should not cover the walls in the steam room with chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.

It's connected with harmful effects chemical substances on the human body at very high temperatures.

DIY finishing process

Basic moments interior decoration step by step:

Manufacturing of sheathing;
Fastening steam and thermal insulation;
Installation of wooden panels.

Requirements for installing sheathing

Hydro- and thermal insulation of steam room walls

For vapor barrier Most often, aluminum foil is used, as well as foamed polymer materials (polypropylene). Advantage polymer materials is that they simultaneously have steam and heat insulating qualities.

These materials, laminated with foil, not only help maintain a high temperature in the steam room, but also resist the accumulation of dampness and the appearance of fungus.

Sequencing:

Attach to a timber wall (mineral wool is best suited for these purposes).
Attach a layer of foil to the insulation.
Install the sheathing (it is necessary to create an air gap between the lining and the foil layer).

Installation of lining

For a step-by-step guide on how to properly cover walls and ceilings with clapboard, watch the video instructions:

Features of dressing room finishing

Find out more about the secrets of finishing a bath from the video below:

During the construction of a bathhouse, there comes a time when it is necessary to decide on its interior decoration. It is very important to choose a material that will not only be beautiful and functional, but also be able to withstand the specific microclimate of a given room. Based on this, many people wonder how to inexpensively line the inside of a bathhouse and what qualities should the chosen material have? A properly equipped steam room is the key to a comfortable and pleasant stay, which is why the finishing of all its surfaces must be approached as responsibly as possible. In this article we will look in detail at the process of improving this room, starting from the choice of materials and ending with the technology of their installation.

Choosing the right material

To the question of how to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse, there is one correct answer - wood. Why them? Because it is the only 100% natural material that meets all the requirements for use in rooms with high humidity and high temperatures. This finishing gives the space a special aesthetics, creates a pleasant atmosphere, and, most importantly, retains heat perfectly.

For those who are interested in what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse other than wood, mention should be made of glass-magnesium sheets. This new material, which is made from wood chips and fiberglass with the addition of various binding components.

The boards are available in light colors and can be used in rooms with high humidity. Since this is a relatively new product, it is rarely used for bath cladding, so we won’t dwell on it for long.

Wooden materials are actively used: block house, panels and lining. For a bathhouse, these options are considered the most suitable.

What wood should you choose for a bathhouse?

When decorating walls and ceilings, you don’t have to limit yourself to just one type of wood. The combination of various varieties that differ in shade will allow you to create a more interesting and extraordinary design. But, before deciding which wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you should take into account the properties and performance characteristics of each tree species.

But for finishing dressing rooms and rest rooms, this option is optimal. Pine has a beautiful texture, is easy to process and has a very attractive price.

It is better to sheathe the steam room and washing room with linden and larch.

These wood species are able to retain their original color for a long time and practically do not heat up when exposed to high temperatures.

Decorating a steam room

For finishing the surfaces of the steam room, only high-quality materials should be selected. Most often, lining is used here. For a bath, choose a board of the highest class from solid

The slats are located in a horizontal or vertical position and are secured with nails, gluers or staples in a hidden way. In order to ensure reliable retention of heat and steam inside the room, a layer of thermal insulation material is placed on the walls.

For this purpose the following can be used:

foil;
mineral wool;
polystyrene foam covered with foil;
glassine, etc.

It is very important that there is air space between the lining and the insulation. This can be achieved by installing a sheathing on which to install facing material. The distance between the slats should be no more than 50 cm.

The finished frame and lining are coated with an antiseptic. Processing is carried out before assembly begins. Wall cladding begins from any corner of the room, securing the boards on both sides with any of the above fastening materials.

Flooring: wood or ceramics?

The temperature in a steam room at floor level usually does not exceed 30 degrees, so they can be made of any material. It is more important to properly and quickly drain the water from the bathhouse. The subfloor is covered with polished or ceramic tiles.

Comparing these two coatings, it should be noted that the tiles are more durable. This is due to the fact that when exposed to moisture, wood darkens, rots and after some time fails. Ceramics, in turn, are not afraid of humidity, temperature changes and are not susceptible to rot and mold.

Despite this, very often wooden floors are installed in bathhouses. This material harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding interior and is much more pleasant when touched with bare feet.

When considering how to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse, it is worthwhile to dwell in detail on the installation technology of both options.

Wooden floor finish

The finishing process with materials is very simple. First of all, the logs are laid on which the boards are mounted. They are placed on brick pillars, which are installed on the base of the floor. For the logs, choose boards measuring 20 x 20 or 25 x 25. They are laid in increments of no more than 1 meter. The floor level in the steam room must be 10-15 centimeters higher than in other rooms of the bathhouse. This is necessary so that you do not leave the steam room for as long as possible. warm air. To lay the finished floor, tongue-and-groove or edged material with a thickness of at least 30 cm is used.

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with boards, all cladding and joists must first be treated with an antiseptic composition. This will protect them from colonization by microorganisms and extend the life of the wooden floor.

Floor finishing with ceramic tiles

For safe movement, you should choose tiles with a rough surface for floors. This will make them less slippery when in contact with water.

For styling ceramic coating it is necessary to make something durable concrete base. The surface must be perfectly clean, smooth and dry. Immediately before laying, the tiles are soaked in water for a couple of minutes. This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the floor covering is of the highest quality and durability.

Start laying tiles from the most visible corner of the room using sand-cement mortar or moisture-resistant glue. Upon completion of the work, the seams are hidden with a special moisture-resistant grout. It helps protect the tiles from mold.

For more comfortable movement on the tiles, you can place floorings made of wooden slats on the floor. Such designs are convenient because they can be taken out of the steam room to dry.

Price

In order to properly plan your own budget, you need to understand how much it costs to line the inside of a bathhouse. The total amount depends on who will carry out the finishing work and how high-quality the material is chosen for finishing.

If you plan to hire specialists to arrange a bathhouse, you need to be prepared to pay for their services. Thus, work is estimated at 130 rubles per m2. Cladding the walls and ceiling with clapboard will cost the owner of the premises from 350-500 rubles per m2.

In the event that the walls inside the bathhouse are lined with my own hands, only the costs of purchasing lining and related materials are taken into account.

A top quality board made from linden costs about 500-600 rubles per m2.

It will cost 250-350 rubles per m2, while material made from coniferous wood has a price tag of 150-200 rubles m2.

To these costs should be added the cost of fasteners, bars and thermal insulation.

Conclusion

In this article, we found out how and with what to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse. In order to save money, you can do the interior arrangement of the room yourself, without resorting to the expensive help of specialists. After finishing the floors, walls and ceilings, you need to take care of lighting and furniture installation. A variety of shelves and hooks on which you can put personal items and hang towels will not be superfluous. After completing all the work, you can begin bathing procedures and enjoy your vacation with family and friends.

It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of a bathhouse. High temperatures and constant humidity force the use of only stress-resistant types of cladding for finishing. One of the classic ones is lining. You can find out how to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader with the difficult task of interior finishing, but we will also tell you how to choose the material.

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, coated with heat-resistant oil

Linden lining should lie unpacked before finishing

Lining for the interior decoration of a bathhouse is selected depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made from, type of wood.

You can divide the material by size :

Classical. It is not wide in size; it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal position visually lowers the already low ceiling in the bathhouse. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same theme quality characteristics like thin lining. On the back side of the eurolining there is a special cut that relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

Based on their composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bathhouse, the best option is made of wood, the rest are for finishing the facade.

Types of wood for making bath trim

The steam room finished with aspen paneling looks attractive

It is important what type of wood the product is made from. For the bathhouse, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abashi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can take not any cedar, but only the northern one. It contains less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not begin to cry. Larch species have a lower wood density and with tactile contact in the bathhouse, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining costs more, but the costs will be justified. Each of the considered types is better suited for various rooms baths

Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of its durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. When in contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use it to decorate a rest room or washing area. The only negative is the high price, due to which it is not recommended for use in the steam room and dressing room.

Original version steam rooms trimmed with linden clapboard

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the inside of a bathhouse. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great

Cedar: This conifer tree, but its structure is of low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and emits a pleasant odor when heated. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since it still contains some percentage of resin.

Alder lining in the interior of the bathhouse looks original and modern

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish tint with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. In baths can be used in any part.

When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take chamber drying Extra or AB grade. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the bath occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. But in the highest grades this is unacceptable.

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Aspen paneling is sewn onto the ceiling

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be coated. To do this, you can look at the photo finished works and choose the design you like.

You need to sheathe the inside of the bathhouse starting from the ceiling. Only after this the walls. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Scheme of a simple version of clapboard paneling for a steam room in a bathhouse

It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bathhouse, especially if it is a small summer log house measuring 3x3 m. In these, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bathhouse is from the inside, including the dressing room and rest room.

As insulation, you need to choose a fire-resistant material, such as bosalt wool. It’s better not to even consider all materials like polystyrene foam. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared sheathing on which the vapor barrier is attached. Due to the large temperature difference, condensation may accumulate on the walls; a vapor barrier will protect the insulation.

Glassine should be secured on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the sheathing using a construction stapler or buttons with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Material processing

The walls of the bathhouse begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in a bath for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And getting into natural environment the wood absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After this, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take a composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

The installation of the lining begins with the ceiling trim. The first strip should be mounted opposite the door. There are two ways to attach links to the bathhouse:

Use small nails to the main sheathing in a groove at an angle of 45 0. Such fastening will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. You shouldn’t hammer the lining tightly together; when it’s wet, it will swell and the entire structure will warp, or it will simply pull away from the wall in separate sections. By leaving a gap, the lining gains space for natural movement.
Use small nails through the lining to the sheathing. This method is more suitable for eurolining. First, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are covered with wood plugs and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the entire nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - a puncher

You need to start attaching the links to the wall from the most visible corner to the door. They install it using exactly the same methods as on the ceiling.

There should be a ventilated gap of 4-5 cm between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm should also be left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for air to pass well under the lining, tonic strips are attached to the main sheathing. The finishing material will be attached to this second sheathing. The pitch of the sheathing is 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.

After fixing the bath, warm it up thoroughly and see what happens after it cools down. Incorrectly fastened links are additionally reinforced with nails.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

Do not mount the lining horizontally in the washing room and steam room. Splashes of water will enter the lock, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires horizontal fastening, then the tenon should point upward.
All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust if exposed to moisture.
All fastening corners and strips at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so the water droplets will go down faster.
The planks are attached 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will evaporate faster and the lining will last longer.
If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

We looked at how to do the interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands. By following all the techniques and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to do the job with his own hands.

Choosing the right material

For those who are interested in what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse other than wood, mention should be made of glass-magnesium sheets. This is a new material that is made from wood chips and fiberglass with the addition of various binding components.

The boards are available in light colors and can be used in rooms with high humidity. Since this is a relatively new product, it is rarely used for bath cladding, so we won’t dwell on it for long.

Wooden materials are actively used: block house, panels and lining. For a bathhouse, these options are considered the most suitable.

What wood should you choose for a bathhouse?

When cladding the ceiling and walls, it is better to use larch, linden, aspen and cedar. It is highly undesirable to place pine materials in a steam room, since when heated they release a pungent odor into the air, which can interfere with a comfortable rest.

But for finishing dressing rooms and rest rooms, this option is optimal. Pine has a beautiful texture, is easy to process and has a very attractive price.

It is better to sheathe the steam room and washing room with linden and larch.

These wood species are able to retain their original color for a long time and practically do not heat up when exposed to high temperatures.

Decorating a steam room

For finishing the surfaces of the steam room, only high-quality materials should be selected. Most often, lining is used here. For a bathhouse, choose a board of the highest class from hard wood.

foil;
mineral wool;
polystyrene foam covered with foil;
glassine, etc.

It is very important that there is air space between the lining and the insulation. This can be achieved by installing the lathing on which the facing material will be installed. The distance between the slats should be no more than 50 cm.

Flooring: wood or ceramics?

Despite this, very often wooden floors are installed in bathhouses. This material harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding interior and is much more pleasant when touched with bare feet.

When considering how to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse, it is worthwhile to dwell in detail on the installation technology of both options.

Wooden floor finish

Floor finishing process wooden materials very simple. First of all, the logs are laid on which the boards are mounted. They are placed on brick pillars, which are installed on the base of the floor. For the logs, choose boards measuring 20 x 20 or 25 x 25. They are laid in increments of no more than 1 meter. The floor level in the steam room must be 10-15 centimeters higher than in other rooms of the bathhouse. This is necessary to ensure that warm air does not escape from the steam room for as long as possible. To lay the finished floor, tongue-and-groove or edged material with a thickness of at least 30 cm is used.

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with boards, all cladding and joists must first be treated with an antiseptic composition. This will protect them from colonization by microorganisms and extend the life of the wooden floor.

Floor finishing with ceramic tiles

For safe movement, you should choose tiles with a rough surface for floors. This will make them less slippery when in contact with water.

To lay a ceramic coating, you need to make a solid concrete base. The surface must be perfectly clean, smooth and dry. Immediately before laying, the tiles are soaked in water for a couple of minutes. This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the floor covering is of the highest quality and durability.

Start laying the tiles from the most visible corner of the room using sand-cement mortar or moisture-resistant glue. Upon completion of the work, the seams are hidden with a special moisture-resistant grout. It helps protect the tiles from mold.

For more comfortable movement on the tiles, you can place floorings made of wooden slats on the floor. Such designs are convenient because they can be taken out of the steam room to dry.

Price

If you plan to hire specialists to arrange a bathhouse, you need to be prepared to pay for their services. Thus, work on installing sheathing is estimated at 130 rubles per m2. Cladding walls and ceilings with clapboard will cost the owner of the premises from 350-500 rubles per m2.

In the event that the walls inside the bathhouse are sheathed with your own hands, only the costs of purchasing the lining and related materials are taken into account.

A top quality board made from linden costs about 500-600 rubles per m2.

Lining made from larch will cost 250-350 rubles per m2, while material made from coniferous wood has a price tag of 150-200 rubles per m2.

To these costs should be added the cost of fasteners, bars and thermal insulation.

Conclusion

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose material

The history of such a simple but necessary invention as a bathhouse goes back many years, but even today, this building practically does not lose its relevance. A shower and bath cannot completely replace a bathhouse, because in it you can not only get rid of dirt, but also improve your health. Usually a bathhouse consists of a dressing room, a sink and a steam room, but the last two points are often combined.

When building each of these rooms, it is necessary to decide how best to line the bathhouse from the inside, because the air temperature in the room will depend on this, as well as the amount of fuel needed to heat it. In this article we will talk about all the most popular and reliable options for lining the inside of a bathhouse.

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Don’t rush to think about how best to line the inside of the bathhouse, because lining may not be needed at all. Task internal lining baths is to preserve internal heat for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and combustion time. Thus, we can conclude that the lining is an integral part of the bathhouse, but this is not entirely true, because a bathhouse built from solid timber using old technologies, does not require additional insulation (more details: “Sheathing with paired clapboards - how to do it right”).

Having built a bathhouse from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a cladding material.

First of all, you need to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatments, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Speaking specifically about what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse, it is worth mentioning lining, block house and magnolite. Of the three options presented, choosing one can also be difficult, so below we will talk in detail about each of them.

Bath lining

Lining is the most popular material for covering a bathhouse, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.

The lining also has a number of useful properties:

Lining allows you to save a large amount of fuel, reducing heat consumption;
Behind it you can hide various communications, increasing the level of comfort indoors;
The lining is resistant to moisture and steam; in addition, it is able to regulate the level of moisture in the steam room and allows the walls of the bath to “breathe”.
Longevity and resistance to the formation of fungus and mold are also important properties that this material.

Next we should talk about the correct choice of material. First of all, pay attention to the fact that the price for lining up to 1.5 m is slightly lower than for material from 2 m, so it’s worth choosing a short length. When installing a short lining, use a batten in the middle to avoid various difficulties (more details: “Which lining is best for a bathhouse - a review of materials for a bathhouse, dressing room and shower”).

It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:

Most best option for the steam room it’s linden, because when heated, it releases essential oils that have a disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effect. Another advantage of this wood is its low thermal conductivity, which helps protect the skin and respiratory tract from burns, while increasing sweating.
Aspen is a worthy alternative to linden. The price of aspen lining is quite low, and the material itself is resistant to moisture and rotting processes. Warming up, aspen promotes health person.
It is recommended to use larch in the shower, because it has high strength and resistance to water. Larch lining has a positive effect on well-being and helps improve immunity.
The steam room can also be finished with white acacia lining. Acacia is a very durable tree, so products made from it last a very long time. The only disadvantage of this wood is the high price.

You can see an example of such cladding in the photo.

Block house for a bathhouse

If you cannot decide what to cover the inside of the steam room with besides the lining, then think about the block house, because it has similar qualities, but a different appearance. The block house has a semi-oval shape, so walls made of this material look like a log house, which gives “historical naturalness” to your bathhouse. The strength and resistance to various influences of the block house are quite high, however, it is recommended to carry out bactericidal treatment once a year.

Block houses are classified by quality:

Class "C" material undergoes only surface treatment; various defects may be present on its surface, for example, cracks or chips. This material is not recommended for installation in a bathhouse;
Block house class "B" It is of average quality and is extremely rarely used for finishing baths. There may be small cracks and knots no more than 3 cm on its surface;
On the surface of class "A" material you will not find any flaws, with the exception of small knots. This option is great for a bath.
« Extra" class has perfect processing, and its surface is free of any imperfections. Ideal for finishing baths, but also has a fairly high price.

The block house is made from various woods, however, only deciduous and coniferous materials are suitable for a bathhouse. Remember that using spruce and pine is highly discouraged, because you can burn your skin on their heated surface.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for lining a bathhouse on the construction market.

If you are thinking about how to cover the inside of the dressing room other than lining, then you can undoubtedly resort to this option; in addition, it is perfect for other rooms due to its qualities:

It is completely unaffected by moisture and rotting processes;
High temperature, as well as temperature changes, do not harm this material;
Magnelite sheets are quite easy to install.

This cladding is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non-natural components, which are reinforced with glass mesh. By making the lining of a bathhouse from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with all the options for interior lining of the sauna and can independently decide how to line the inside of the sauna, starting from own desires and financial situation.

Lining the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard

What kind of materials are used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And wooden panels are much more pleasing and familiar to the eye. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining is...

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technical progress, the production of different types of lining has also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to GOST 8242-88, humidity wooden products allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, and pine.

WoodColorPropertiesPhoto


Aspen	White, acquires a silvery tint. The yellow growth rings are barely visible.	Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to even hammer a nail into an aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up.
Linden	Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte shine.	The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up little, and in the steam room it releases aromatic components that are beneficial to health. When in contact with linden wood in a humid environment, the iron oxidizes and rusts, and streaks appear.
Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar	Brown with a pink tint.	One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack.
Beige, brown with red shades. It gets darker with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin canals.	Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties during processing. It releases resin when heated, so it is not used for covering those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. It is not suitable for covering the ceiling of a steam room or it requires repeated heating of the steam room followed by removal of the resin that has emerged (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bathhouse, it is better to choose Extra-class pine lining.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood is big amount knots heat up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

Class or varietyDescription


Extra	Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
A or 1	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ panel long, non-through cracks - less than 9.5 cm long (the crack exit is directed towards the end of the panel) that appear when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There may be tars and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 m.p.
B or 2	There are many knots, of which no more than 2 can fall out. by 1 m.p. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long; hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pieces per 1 m.p.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
C or 3	The quality is low. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

ProfileDescriptionScheme


Standard	Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tongue being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of back side channels to prevent condensation accumulation.
Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed.
Soft-line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels.
Used for finishing external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the back side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of the steam room lining.

Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
Area of the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
Total area of the room: 6 (ceiling)+7.5 (first long wall)+7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m2.

We calculate the area of the hallway paneling.

Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
Area two long walls: 3x2.5=7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
Area of two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of the window and doorways, then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed for cladding inner surface baths

The most popular profile size is as follows:

panel thickness 12.5 mm;
panel width 96 mm;
panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase a lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the sauna lining will have to be completely or partially replaced.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But more rational option for a bath it is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, falling coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing The walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit strong chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. Optimal distance between adjacent slats - from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the slats using a stretched fishing line/cord or laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when you need to do more low ceiling in the bathhouse, metal hangers are used to fasten the lathing.

In this case, first, hangers are fixed to the ceiling using long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust stains on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the batten, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting step the horizontal bars of the sheathing are attached using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, you must leave a gap of 2 cm.

To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the screws, place the board on the sheathing (be sure to have the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, and check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.

Video - Finishing the steam room

Files for download: DIN 68126 (standard for the manufacture of eurolining) and GOST 8242-88 (standard for the manufacture of wooden lining, skirting boards, etc.).

How to cover a steam room in a bathhouse - how to choose the right wood

The most important room in a bathhouse is the steam room. Except yours main function it must satisfy aesthetic needs, because it is much more pleasant to spend time where it is beautiful. Let's consider how to decorate the inside of the steam room so that it pleases with its appearance.

Choice of finishing material

Traditionally, wood is used to cover the steam room, which gives the room a beautiful appearance, creates a healthy atmosphere and retains heat. However, there are many different types of wood and of course the question arises, what kind of wood is best to cover a steam room?

Various types of wood are used to produce bath finishing materials. However, it is not recommended to use coniferous wood to cover the steam room, since it can release resin when heated strongly (read: “Finishing a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands - from floor to ceiling”). It is best to use such types of wood for finishing a bath as linden, larch, oak, and aspen. If you really want to enjoy the pine aroma during bath procedures, then you can finish it with cedar material. It is durable and not resinous.

Requirements for the material for covering the steam room

When choosing what to cover a steam room in a bathhouse with, you should pay attention to such points as:

The wood must be moisture-resistant and dry quickly, which will allow it to avoid rotting.
The resin content should approach zero. The best option is to have no resins at all.
The surface must be flat, smooth, free from roughness, gaps and knots.
Wood should have low thermal conductivity, since wood that is highly heated in a steam room can burn the skin.

Choosing which better wood To buy a steam room, you should pay attention to linden. Lining made from such wood is considered the most optimal material. Linden wood has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and releases beneficial essential oils.

Aspen is also a good material for a steam room, as it is durable, strong and has healing properties. And another advantage is its low cost.

When deciding what kind of wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you can opt for larch. It has a positive effect on the human body, has high density, strength, low thermal conductivity, and does not absorb moisture. In general, such wood has all the necessary qualities and is perfect for finishing a bathhouse.

Interior arrangement of the steam room

As a rule, benches, shelves, and headrests are installed in the steam room. They are fairly easy to make, so you can do it yourself. It is recommended to make bath furniture from the same type of wood that was used to cover the walls of the steam room.

Nowadays African oak, or abashi in other words, has become widespread.

It has such advantages as:

low thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
high density;
durability;
strength;
does not deform;
pleasant to the touch.

The disadvantage of abashi is its rather high price.

When covering a steam room, the lining can be mounted vertically or horizontally (for more details: “How to mount lining in a bathhouse - rules and installation sequence”). If a horizontal arrangement is chosen, then the lining should be nailed from the bottom up. This technique will prevent water from seeping into the joints.

First you need to install vertical posts, between which the insulation material will be laid. To do this, markings are made, which should start from the corner. The distance between the inner sides of the racks should be 59 cm. This step will allow you to correctly install the insulation of the required thickness.

There are some peculiarities when cladding the walls of a log bathhouse. Fastening the sheathing boards in a vertical position is quite difficult, and not everyone decides to do this work themselves. To obtain the desired result and avoid mistakes, it is necessary to process the side of the vertically located racks facing the logs. Read also: “How and with what to treat lining in a steam room - practical tips.”

To do this, you need to make a special copier. It is a thin ruler, which is pointed on one side and has holes along its entire length that match the diameter of a pencil. Take the stand and press it against the wall, then use a copier to draw and draw lines repeating the shape of the log house.

Next, the racks are processed in accordance with the drawn lines. It is enough to make sure that the stand, with a pitch of 60 cm, is tightly adjacent to the logs in several places. The vertical level must be strictly observed. The length of the contact surface should be about 2-3 cm, this will be enough. The steam room board must be treated with an antiseptic.

The next step is to attach the protective membrane. This must be done from the bottom up, and each subsequent film should overlap the already fixed one by 20-30 cm. The upper edge is attached to the logs with a stapler; for overlapping areas, one of the options is selected: glue it with tape, upholster it, or use self-adhesive tape. Read also: “How to make a steam room in a bathhouse correctly and beautifully.”

A protective film is placed under the racks installed in accordance with the markings. To do this, use a level or plumb line. Galvanized screws or nails are suitable for fixing the material to the logs. You can do without screws long length: drilled into the rack blind hole, which should be several millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw head.

It is necessary to pull a rope from above and below the wall; it must be tied to the outer posts. This will help you align and install the interior posts.

Tension and alignment protective film It is necessary in such a way that no air gets between the open logs. Otherwise, such a mistake will lead to the fact that both the frame and lining of the steam room will begin to rot and deform, as a result, bath procedures will no longer benefit the body.

When installing corner posts, insulation material must be laid immediately.

Nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Before starting finishing work, it is necessary to prepare the material that will be used to finish the steam room. Before attaching it to the walls, the lining must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it will be used.

The floor in the steam room must be higher than the floor level in other rooms. The shelves are installed above the heater by about 10 cm. Benches and shelves should not have sharp corners. Only natural materials should be used inside the steam room.

It is very important to choose what kind of wood to cover the steam room with, since not all types of wood are suitable for this. You should also take into account all the finishing features of the most important room of the bathhouse, which determines whether the procedures taken will be useful.

Bathhouse lining inside: selection of material and installation

Today there are many finishing materials. However, not all of them are suitable for lining the inside of a bathhouse.

In this article we will look at how to line the inside of a bathhouse and how to do it yourself?

What material should you choose for the interior decoration of a bathhouse?

The main thing to remember when choosing material for cladding:

the material must be environmentally friendly;
resistant to moisture and high temperatures;
have low thermal conductivity.

One of the most suitable materials can be considered wood. Exploring the pros and cons different breeds wood, we decided that the ideal option for lining the inside of the bathhouse is linden lining. It has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and also releases essential oils that have a beneficial effect on human health. The price for it is not much different from the price of lining made from other types of wood.

Installation of linden lining

Step 1. Preparation

First you need to prepare the tools and materials necessary for the installation process:

Jigsaw;
Screwdriver;
Stapler;
Level;
Hammer;
Self-tapping screws (depending on the size of the bars);
Nails (1.2×20 mm);
Staples;
Bars (you need to choose bars whose thickness is slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation);
Insulation (most suitable option- balsat wool);
Aluminium foil;
Aluminum tape;
Well, and the lining itself.

Step 2. Lathing

The sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the position of the lining.
We start from the ceiling of the bathhouse: we level the bars using a level, if necessary, we make substrates from wood or plywood, secure them with self-tapping screws, and install the bars at a distance of 50 - 70 cm.
We lath the walls in the same way.
In the places of doorways and windows around the perimeter we attach additional bars.
Next, we treat the sheathing with an antiseptic to prevent rotting and increase service life.
The openings between the bars, with a slight seal, are filled with insulation boards.

Step 3. Insulation and vapor barrier

Attention!
When insulating a bathhouse, use goggles and a respirator or other means to protect your eyes and face.
When insulation particles get into mucous membranes, they cause irritation.

We fasten strips of aluminum foil for a bath horizontally using a stapler, from bottom to top, overlapping the previous strip with each next by 5-10 centimeters. We glue the joints with aluminum tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vapor barrier.

Step 4. Covering the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse with clapboard

We begin installation of the first lining from the corner and continue along the perimeter.
Using a jigsaw, cut the lining to the required length.
We apply the lining and secure it along its entire height using self-tapping screws.

Tip: in order to avoid chips in the lining, drill small holes in the places where you will screw in the screws.

We insert the clamp into the groove of the lining and nail it to the sheathing using nails, as shown in the video in this article.
We insert the next one into the groove of the installed lining, so that the lining goes all the way, we put a piece of the lining and hammer it along the entire length with a hammer. We also secure it to the sheathing using clamps.
In the same way we continue the installation of the following linings.
We install the lining on the ceiling in the same way as we did on the walls.
After installing all the clapboards, close the corners using wooden skirting boards. To do this, cut the plinth to the required length and attach it to the lining using small nails.

Step 5: Surface treatment

Despite all the advantages of wood, it also has disadvantages - over time, wood, when exposed to moisture, undergoes rotting, which significantly deteriorates its appearance and reduces its service life. In order for the lining in the bathhouse to delight you with its beauty and durability for a long time, there are many materials to protect the wood from moisture, insects and other adverse environmental factors.

We will look at several types of wood processing products:

Dye

The most accessible means paint is used for processing, but it is ineffective, and its use inside a bathhouse is undesirable, since many types of paints are destroyed and release harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures.

Wood impregnation solutions

Such solutions generally do not provide comprehensive protection; their action is aimed at some specific protection, for example, there are products that have antiseptic properties, and there are also products for protecting wood from fire.

Special varnish coatings

The most suitable remedy, in our opinion, is special varnish coatings, since these compositions provide comprehensive protection against insects, cracking and moisture. In addition, with the help of such a composition you can give the lining different shades without disturbing the natural pattern of the wood, thereby helping to achieve the desired result in the design of the bathhouse.

Conclusion

So, after you have installed all the cladding elements and decided on the type protective coating, all that remains is to process everything with it wooden surfaces inside the bathhouse. One of the possible results can be seen in the photo. In this article we looked at how to line the inside of a bathhouse with linden clapboard.

How to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside: stages and cladding technology

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, coated with heat-resistant oil

Which lining is best for a bathhouse?

Linden lining should lie unpacked before finishing

You can divide the material by size :

Classical. It is not wide in size; it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal position visually lowers the already low ceiling in the bathhouse. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same quality characteristics as thin lining. On the back side of the eurolining there is a special cut that relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

Based on their composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bathhouse, the best option is made of wood, the rest are for finishing the facade.

Types of wood for making bath trim

The steam room finished with aspen paneling looks attractive

It is important what type of wood the product is made from. For the bathhouse, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abashi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can take not any cedar, but only the northern one. It contains less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not begin to cry. Larch species have a lower wood density and with tactile contact in the bathhouse, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining costs more, but the costs will be justified. Each of the types under consideration is better suited for different bathhouse areas.

An original version of a steam room trimmed with linden clapboard

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the inside of a bathhouse. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if it is not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds, it quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great

Cedar: This is a coniferous tree, but its structure is of low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and emits a pleasant odor when heated. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since it still contains some percentage of resin.

Alder lining in the interior of the bathhouse looks original and modern

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish tint with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. In baths can be used in any part.

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Aspen paneling is sewn onto the ceiling

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be coated. To do this, you can look at photos of finished works and settle on the design you like.

You need to sheathe the inside of the bathhouse starting from the ceiling. Only after this the walls. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Scheme of a simple version of clapboard paneling for a steam room in a bathhouse

Material processing

The walls of the bathhouse begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in a bath for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And once in the natural environment, wood absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After this, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take a composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

The installation of the lining begins with the ceiling trim. The first strip should be mounted opposite the door. There are two ways to attach links to the bathhouse:

Use small nails to the main sheathing in a groove at an angle of 45 0. Such fastening will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. You shouldn’t hammer the lining tightly together; when it’s wet, it will swell and the entire structure will warp, or it will simply pull away from the wall in separate sections. By leaving a gap, the lining gains space for natural movement.
Use small nails through the lining to the sheathing. This method is more suitable for eurolining. First, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are covered with wood plugs and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the entire nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - a puncher

You need to start attaching the links to the wall from the most visible corner to the door. They install it using exactly the same methods as on the ceiling.

After fixing the bath, warm it up thoroughly and see what happens after it cools down. Incorrectly fastened links are additionally reinforced with nails.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

Do not mount the lining horizontally in the washing room and steam room. Splashes of water will enter the lock, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires horizontal fastening, then the tenon should point upward.
All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust if exposed to moisture.
All fastening corners and strips at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so the water droplets will go down faster.
The planks are attached 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will evaporate faster and the lining will last longer.
If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

How to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands?

Wood is an ideal finishing material for a bath

The Russian bathhouse is primarily known for the presence of abundant steam indoors. This effect occurs due to the bare logs being cut without any special treatment. Heat retention in Ancient Rus' was achieved by creating especially dense and massive walls, which could absorb moisture from the air and retain it for a long time. In addition, such walls were needed to transfer heat inside the bathhouse. Many people heard the loud hissing of the walls, which is why various stories arose in Rus'. In fact, the hissing came from the wood, which absorbed moisture vapor and set in motion the condensation effect. Most people tried to build a bathhouse from the thickest logs, as this ensured high-quality heating.

In those days, it took a long time to heat a bathhouse, about 4 hours. It should be remembered that wood is a hygroscopic material, which is why it quickly becomes unusable. Back then it was the cheapest and most widespread resource. But today everything has changed radically. Modern bathhouse requires a special approach to wall decoration. The main goal now is to significantly reduce heat energy costs and speed up the heating time. At the moment, bathhouse finishing is most often carried out using a special material - lining. You should know how to line a bathhouse with clapboards with high quality, so as not to have problems in the future.

Heating a steam room with clapboard becomes much easier, firewood is consumed in small quantities. The only drawback is that the sauna does not retain heat so well, so you have to use fuel much more often. Steam is created thanks to modern furnaces and steam generators. At the same time, you need to constantly monitor its supply and control the presence of heat inside the room.

How to choose the type of lining

High-quality lining prevents the formation of various bacteria, mold and mildew, while controlling the level of humidity inside the bath itself. The main requirements for the material are high moisture resistance and environmental safety.

Initially, bathhouse lining was made in quarter and tongue-and-groove. Because of this, over time, the slats shifted and the compressed joints were destroyed. At the moment, almost all lining is made in the groove and in the tongue.

Advice from the master!

Important to know: to save cash, try to search and purchase 1.5 m long lining at building materials warehouses. It costs much less than 2 m material. Processing lining with such a length in a bathhouse is quite simple. It is only necessary to sheathe the joint with a lath. At the same time, you will save a lot on building materials.

Panel fastening schemes

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard can be done in 2 ways: vertical and horizontal. Most experienced bathhouse attendants agree that covering a bathhouse with clapboard vertical method- Not best idea. The reason for this is the different temperature of the wood below and above, which will directly affect the service life of the material. Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard horizontally will contribute to a more uniform distribution of temperature. In addition, horizontal cladding allows you to visually increase the height of the wall in a small steam room.

Advantages of horizontal sauna lining.

If the floors darken, you can easily change the lining in the right place.
Thanks to the presence of a vertical frame, the bathhouse will be protected from the inside from rats, mice and other rodents.
Installing horizontal cladding is several times easier than installing vertical cladding.
Liquid does not seep between the joints of the boards, the lining dries much better, which helps extend its service life.
Ventilation outside the lining is carried out better due to the presence of a vertical frame. In addition, the space under the lining also becomes ventilated.

Please note: in case of fastening the lining along horizontal scheme it is necessary to direct the groove downwards.

Advantages of vertical sauna cladding.

The bathhouse becomes more like a sauna due to higher temperatures and dry air.
Due to the absence of splashes, liquid will not seep between the joints of the boards, and accordingly, the wood will not darken.
For good ventilation, it is enough to drill small holes under the lining.

Installation of finishing material

By weighing the benefits of each scheme, you can choose the most suitable option. Remember that the horizontal cladding method will allow you to achieve the effect of a real Russian bathhouse.

Advice from the master!

Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard in a vertical pattern will, in turn, ensure the presence of high temperatures. You will have a real sauna.

How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard: detailed instructions

The sheathing procedure consists of 4 stages, each of which does not take very much time. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is a simple process. Follow the instructions on how to properly line the interior of a steam room with clapboard, and you will succeed.

Stage 1: preparation for work

Before installing the lining inside the bathhouse, you need to carry out preparatory work. If there are differences in the walls, you need to smooth them out with putty. Ceiling and wall coverings are treated with antifungal mixtures. Then the electrical wiring and piping are placed. After purchasing the lining, you need to take it into the bathhouse and leave it there for a couple of days so that it gets used to the atmosphere of the room.

Stage 2: frame installation

Wood blocks are used as a frame. Their size is selected based on the density of the insulation.

Frame for installing lining

Then you need to attach the bars randomly on the wall and mark points on it for mounting metal hangers. The bars are placed in a row and the distance between them should be about 44-48 cm.

Important to know: it is advisable that metal parts were made of galvanized iron. If other materials are used, after a while traces of rust appear on the wood. Wooden blocks also need to be treated with an antifungal mixture so that the lining is protected from harmful bacteria on all sides.

Holes for dowels are drilled and metal hangers are secured. Wooden blocks are attached to them. Various fastening options can be used, depending on the method of fixing the lining. Keep in mind that there must be good ventilation between the bars. Near door and window openings, the bars must be mounted vertically with a distance of 25 mm from the edges.

It is important to know: the first row of the frame should begin with longer bars, and shorter ones are attached to the next row. The entire frame must be in the same plane. When installing, keep an eye on each row. In case of a large difference, material is placed under the block to act as a gasket.

Stage 3: laying thermal insulation

Before the final lining of the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to lay thermal insulation underneath it. It must be laid between wooden blocks. Many people are accustomed to using mineral wool as a heat insulator. It is worth knowing that this type of insulation does not cope with high level humidity. It is recommended to pay attention to foam glass. This heat insulator has good moisture repellency and does a good job of retaining heat. At the same time, foam glass is completely harmless to humans. In addition, there is no need to lay on top of it vapor barrier material. But if in doubt, you can use this type of insulator. It is glued with an overlap using tape.

Stage 4: attaching the lining

When starting to cover the inside of the bathhouse, you need to cut the lining. After this, you should cut off the tenon at the first segment and place it in the right place.

The final stage is applying an antiseptic

Sheathing should begin from the corner side. It is recommended to use clamps for strengthening. First, they must be driven into the groove of the segment, and then installed in the frame. Each subsequent segment is superimposed on part of the previous one and is also driven in.

At the end of the finishing work, it is necessary to apply a protective layer to the lining sections. For this, oil mixtures or wax are used. Caring for the lining of the lining requires special care. It is necessary to exclude treatment with solvents and abrasive materials.

Advice from the master!

If the segment is severely damaged, it must be replaced. Do not forget to periodically renew the protective layer on the surface of the lining. Estimate ready-made sauna, lined with clapboard, can be obtained by studying the presented photos.

The bathhouse is a place where people relax and recuperate. In the old days, it was used to assist in childbirth, as well as to heal colds. Today, many modern procedures have been added to such treatment. They make the human body younger and more beautiful. Many people go to the bathhouse simply to relax comfortably and have fun. And that’s why every person strives to make it at home. To do this, you need to know how to make a bathhouse beautiful both inside and outside.

Peculiarities

A building can be made of many materials, each of which has one or another advantage. This includes foam block, aerated concrete, brick, and many other materials.

From logs

The most common and traditional material is wood. Most often, owners choose rounded logs. This choice is quite understandable, because a bathhouse made from such material looks very beautiful and natural. Plus, you can save time on construction and also simplify the work process. In addition, wood creates a wonderful microclimate inside the bathhouse.

From foam block

When choosing such a material, you need to familiarize yourself with its qualities. After all, foam concrete has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, it has good thermal insulation, the level of which is much higher than that of ordinary concrete. The foam block also has a small weight, which simplifies cargo transportation. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material, constituent elements which are sand, cement and water. The foam block is resistant to frost, it is not afraid of fire. But sometimes you can buy low-quality material that has low strength. It will be of poor quality, especially if you compare such a fake with aerated concrete or expanded clay.

From aerated concrete

It has almost the same qualities as a foam block, its only difference is that it is vapor permeable and slowly absorbs moisture. But the damp material dries well.

Made of brick

Unlike the northern regions, where wood is preferred, in the south brick is most often used to build baths. It is made from clay, which is environmentally friendly material, because in such a building they not only wash themselves, but also improve their health. In addition, such material is durable and not afraid of fire. Its only drawback is its high thermal conductivity. But having done good insulation, in a brick bathhouse it will be as warm as in a wooden building.

From cinder block

Cinder block is used to make the construction of a building faster and cheaper. At the same time, the quality of the bathhouse does not suffer, since this material is no less durable than brick.

From gas silicate blocks

Building a bathhouse from such material will cost less than building from wood. It consists of cement, sand, gypsum, lime and water. Gas silicate is not afraid of mold, is immune to frost, fire-resistant, environmentally friendly and soundproof. The only drawback is that it has greater moisture absorption.

When determining the necessary materials for the construction and decoration of a bathhouse, it is necessary to remember that they should not emit harmful fumes at elevated temperatures. The interior finishing should retain heat well and release it into the room after heating.

A bathhouse, like any room, consists of different surfaces, the materials for which are selected separately. For example, the decoration of the walls in every second bathhouse is made from natural wood. This is done because it absorbs moisture well and is resistant to high temperatures, and also has a long service life. In addition, thanks to its qualities, wood fills the room with a unique atmosphere.

For wall cladding in bathhouses and saunas, lining or imitation beams are most often used. The surfaces are also sheathed with unedged boards made of various types of wood. The cheapest material is pine, but it cannot be used to decorate a steam room, because it contains a large amount of resin, so touching such surfaces can cause burns.

The best option For the interior lining of the bathhouse there will be types of wood such as linden or larch. Linden not only does not darken over time, but also does not crack. Plus, its use will enhance the healing effect of being in the steam room. Larch has a long service life and is also not afraid of mold.

You shouldn’t cover it with OSB boards, because it contains many harmful substances, which only increase with increasing temperature.

Used for flooring wooden boards or ceramic tiles, but glazed tiles are more suitable for this. After all, it tolerates temperature changes better than any other. But the walls around the stove can be finished with stone or tiles that are resistant to fire.

Exterior decoration

There are several options for finishing the outside of a bathhouse. One of them is siding. It is not afraid of temperature changes and is also not subject to corrosion. But if the bathhouse has a structure made of rounded beams, then it is not worth covering it with siding. After all, the tree must breathe, but he cannot provide this. And then the walls may turn black, which will reduce their service life.

The next option is clapboard cladding. This type of finishing is not difficult to do with your own hands. However, when purchasing, you should pay attention to the moisture content of the material, which should not be higher than 15%. You can also use a block house that imitates the surface of rounded logs, which costs a little more than lining. You also need to pay attention to its humidity. Installation of these materials is a very difficult task, so it is better to entrust it to specialists.

Wall decoration can be done with facade tiles having special plates. With their help, it is attached with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.

The most common type of bath finishing is coating the surface with plaster., which can decorate even a very modest building. It is better to buy ready-made dry mixture. You just need to dilute it with water and, if necessary, add the desired pigment. It is applied using movements in different sides. This creates a furrow resembling the bark of a tree.

Building a bathhouse is only half the job. After all, after finishing the exterior work, it is necessary to begin finishing from the inside. This is an important stage in construction. A well-executed finishing of a building not only looks beautiful, it also protects the ceiling, floor and walls.

When planning the finishing of a bathhouse, you need to know that it consists of three rooms. This is a dressing room or, in other words, a locker room, a washing room or shower room and a steam room. If the bathhouse is large, then you can also make a kitchen area, a swimming pool or even a billiard room in it. However, here, too, you should not neglect the basic requirements for a bath. The premises should ideally not only have an attractive finish, but also be very practical.

It is necessary to begin the interior decoration of rooms with a selection of materials necessary for the work. If you choose them wisely, this will extend their service life and also give you the opportunity to relax in comfort.

Tree

Wood is most suitable for interior decoration. Here larch or linden can be chosen. Recently, abashi tree has become popular, which has interesting properties. This is a very soft African wood, which has only one significant drawback - stains and any prints remain on its surface. This material has very low thermal conductivity, and when a person sits on it, it takes on body temperature.

There are also materials that should not be used for finishing. bath rooms. For example, pine, which releases a lot of resin during the heating process, should not be used to decorate the steam room. As already mentioned, this can cause burns. Also, sheathing made of chipboard or fiberboard swells very much and at the same time emits substances that can even lead to poisoning. For the same reasons, linoleum cannot be laid.

If the use of pine is prohibited for a steam room, then for a dressing room or gathering room, on the contrary, it will be better than any other material. The tree will give off its aroma to the room and thus create the atmosphere of a real Russian bathhouse.

Lining

Lining is also actively used as a finishing material. It is very easy to install, and individual panels can be replaced. This material will be ideal for finishing bath rooms, plus, if you place insulation underneath it, the room will be as warm as possible.

Tile

The most commonly used material is tile. However, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, but it is perfect for a relaxation area and shower. After all, such material does not rot, is not exposed to moisture and is not afraid of high temperatures, which means it will last a long time. It can be unenamelled or glazed. The latter option is ideal for finishing surfaces in a bathhouse. But non-enamelled tiles do not tolerate temperature changes.

Before starting the cladding, it is necessary to distribute the work processes. They are performed from the bottom up. The first stage is finishing the floor. Next comes the ceiling, and then the walls.

You need to start finishing the bath from the floor. To do this, you can use edged larch boards or tiles. First, a rough coating is done. To do this, concrete is poured taking into account the water drainage system. Then, after the few days necessary for the solution to harden, you can begin finishing the floor.

If wood is chosen for its cladding, then the logs are installed first, and then edged boards up to thirty centimeters thick are laid. Before starting work, all wood must be treated with antiseptics to avoid fungus and mold.

If tiles will be used for finishing, then you need to make a screed before installing it, and only then can you proceed to installation. You should also pay attention to its basis. After all, fungi can spread on porous substrates. Therefore it is better to use smooth tiles. When starting work, you must first soak it for a few minutes to save glue. After all wet material will absorb less of it. Then the tiles coated with glue are applied to the wall. Its edges need to be pressed down a little with a mallet. At the end of the work, it is necessary to sand the seams. To prevent accidents, wooden grates can be installed on top of the tiles.

To cover a room with clapboard, it is necessary to level the surfaces of the walls, otherwise it will will go in waves. Next, a sheathing is created from slats, which are fixed at a distance of 60-70 centimeters from each other. According to the technology, the outer slats are first attached using galvanized self-tapping screws. A plumb line and level are used to ensure that everything is done neatly and evenly. If the walls are smooth, it is possible to install the lining without using sheathing. It is attached with large staples or self-tapping screws.

Beginners often face the question of whether a vapor barrier is needed. This primarily depends on the main materials used for construction and interior decoration. If the structure is wooden and trimmed with clapboard, then a vapor barrier will not be required. For brick buildings it is required. Do not forget about treating the entire frame system, as well as the material itself, with antiseptic agents. There is no need to cover the trim with paint or even clear varnish, as they will not allow steam to pass through.

Before installation work It is necessary to insulate the bathhouse. To do this, you can use mineral wool, which is laid on the sheathing. The thickness of the insulation ranges from 10 to 20 centimeters, depending on the material used to build the bathhouse.

After finishing the covering, you can start decorating the room, install shelves, and also decorate it with different objects. This can be done in a modern style or decorated in an antique style.

Steam room

When finishing the steam room, you need to take into account its features. These include temperature changes, high humidity, and the constant presence of steam. Therefore, when choosing materials for finishing, you need to take into account the extreme conditions of the steam room. The wood must be dry, without knots or other defects. Antiseptic treatment should also be done. This will extend its durability. For this purpose, an edged board that meets such requirements as moisture resistance, immunity to mold or mildew, and does not contain resins is suitable.

Lining made from linden has good characteristics. She has low density, which allows it not to get very hot in the steam room. Also, such panels do not emit resins, plus they have good sound insulation. No worse than linden are linings made from aspen or cedar, which have almost the same qualities.

For the steam room, you cannot use materials such as linoleum or wooden slabs, since when the air is heated, they release substances that are bad for human health. The same applies to plastic. Finishing with tiles is also not recommended, as it can crack at high temperatures, and touching it can cause severe burns.

The steam room does not require additional processing, because all antiseptics have a chemical additive, which at high temperatures will begin to actively release from the materials used, which will have a detrimental effect on health and make the procedures more dangerous.

Finishing in the steam room begins with raising the floor by about fifteen centimeters so that there are no drafts and better heat retention. It is better to make the covering from edged boards or ceramic tiles.

When starting to cover the steam room with clapboard, it is necessary to immediately insulate it. Mineral or basalt wool. You can also use cork agglomerate, the main advantage of which is hypoallergenicity. The sheathing itself must be done very diligently. The distance between the slats must be at least 50 centimeters.

Once the installation of the lining is complete, you can begin installing shelves or deck chairs. They should have a round shape. To make them, it is preferable to take wood that has the lowest density so that they do not heat up too much. It can be either linden or aspen, and for lovers of strong aromas, cedar boards are suitable. It is better to place them near a wall that does not have windows. You need to make different sun loungers, ranging in size from half a meter to a meter for a comfortable pastime.

Washing

The washing room is used not only for its intended purpose, that is, not only to wash in the shower, but also to pamper your body with a massage or other procedures. All this needs to be thought about in advance, even before finishing work or even during the construction of the bathhouse.

When choosing finishing materials for it, you need to take into account all the functions that will be necessary in the washing room. Best suited for finishing tile or wood. Unlike a steam room, pine needle materials are more suitable for a washing room. It can be spruce, pine, or larch. This choice is very simply explained. After all, pine needles have the properties of repelling water and will perform best in the washing room. It will not only last a long time, but will also delight the eye with its appearance. Coniferous materials are very beneficial for health, and their smell heals the heart, lungs and nervous system.

The most important task is finishing the floor. It should be non-slip. To achieve this result, the base of the floor is made of concrete. Tiles are laid on its surface. And to avoid slipping, wooden grates are placed on top. They must be periodically removed and taken out into fresh air to dry and prevent fungus. The tile copes well with large amounts of water. But the floors in the washroom can be made entirely of wood. However, it is worth considering that they do not completely remove water, which means its stagnation can lead to mold or rot.

Decorating the interior of such a room does not require such strict rules as a steam room. But even if there are no high temperatures here, the humidity in the bathhouse is still too high. Craftsmen advise finishing with natural, breathable materials. It can be lining, stone, or tile. Even plastic can be used here, but it is of very high quality, because low-quality plastic will release toxins when heated.

Also, if the firebox is made in washing department, it is necessary to insulate the walls and ceiling located near the stove. This can be done using a metal sheet.

Restroom

To decorate a room such as a recreation room, there is no need to meticulously select materials. For this, you can use any type of wood, so finishing such a room will cost the owner very little. The use of linoleum and wood boards. For walls and ceilings, lining or other materials using imitation beams are suitable.

Wall finishing consists of two stages - rough and finishing. When starting rough finishing, you need to remember that you must immediately seal the room. This stage includes insulating the walls and ceiling using mineral wool and foil.

Then they begin finishing. For this purpose, lining, which includes natural wood species, is suitable. You can also combine its types to enhance the healing effect. In addition, such a simple option will add some extravagance to the rest room.

To place boards in such a room, you must use either a vertical or horizontal version finishing. This is done so that water flowing down the lining does not accumulate between the slats.

To finish the floor, just like in the previous rooms, you can use both wood and tiles. Having chosen the first option, you can start doing it step by step. First, logs are laid on a concrete base. Before this, waterproofing is done. Then the logs are treated with an antiseptic. Beams are attached to their edges, and only then a subfloor made of wood is placed on them.

The next step will be laying the insulating material. This could be, for example, roofing felt. A layer of expanded clay is poured on top of it, and then waterproofing is laid again. Final stage includes laying finishing boards.

Having chosen tiles for finishing the floor, you need to know which types of tiles are most suitable for this. You can use porcelain stoneware and majolica tiles. To install, you first need to fill the area under the room with sand and level it well. Then lay foam and insulating material on top, on which a special mesh rests. Then the concrete is poured and after a few days you can begin installing the tiles.

When selecting materials for finishing, you need to take into account that the rest room is a room where you can relax and have fun. Therefore, the interior and decor play an important role in this. If you choose the right colors and also combine all types of decoration, then relaxing in such a room will be pleasant not only for the owners, but also for the guests.

To be able to relax comfortably in the bathhouse, it is necessary to properly decorate the room. To do this, it is necessary to plan in advance not only the interior of all rooms, but also their thermal insulation. The materials used for this must be environmentally friendly, resistant to high temperatures, and also resistant to mold.

It is better to take mineral wool to insulate the room, which is natural material, having a high degree of thermal conductivity, and its service life can reach 50 years. You can also use insulation made from foil. Their advantage is that they are only one centimeter thick.

Glass wool should not be used. It is slightly inferior in properties to mineral wool, and over time it produces an unpleasant odor. To insulate a log bath, you can use jute felt material. Do not use foam for insulation inside, as it can release toxic substances. For the floor, you can use a layer of expanded clay, the thickness of which should be 25 centimeters.

It is better to decorate the interior of bath rooms from wood, which is a durable and environmentally friendly material. Moreover, no other material can replace either the look or aroma of wood. After all, it is not only pleasant to touch it, but also to walk barefoot. There is no need to treat wood surfaces with paint or varnish; it is better to enjoy their natural aroma.

If wood is used for finishing, then it should be brought into the room in advance, two to three days before the start of work. This will give the lining the advantage that it will then not feel either moisture or dryness. To install the sheathing, you need to use beams measuring 50 by 50 centimeters.

Do not forget about installing a rough and finished floor in each bath room. It must allow air to pass through so that the boards or any other base do not rot or become moldy over time. It is imperative to install overhead vents to ventilate the room. After all, they are vital. If a person becomes ill, then with their help you can instantly reset the steam level. Also, if the bathhouse is not heated, the vents should be left open so that the walls do not become damp.

When installing a stove, you need to pay attention to the design of the chimney so that soot does not catch fire in it. Also, do not forget about electrical wiring. To avoid any safety issues, it is necessary to use safe LED lights for lighting in the steam room and washing room.

Although there is a lot of work on finishing a bathhouse and it is not easy, you can still do it yourself, you just need to follow the advice and recommendations of experts, and also pay attention to the process of installation work.

Beautiful examples

There are many interesting ideas for decorating baths, many of which can be used as inspiration for renovation or construction.

The first example is a classic bathhouse with wooden walls, floors and even a ceiling. All this is made of logs, covered only with a protective layer of varnish. Only in such a steam room can you truly relax. She looks traditional, and that is where her main charm lies. The bathhouse is divided into two main parts - a place to relax and the steam room itself. Both of them are made in the same style and decorated with brooms made of dry herbs. This decor not only looks beautiful, but also fills the room with incredible aromas. Moreover, this kind of decoration is quite inexpensive, because you can collect herbs for brooms yourself in the summer.

Concerning functional content rooms, everything is simple here. The steam room contains everything you need for proper relaxation and bathing. The dressing room can become a place for intimate gatherings with friends. There is a large table and chairs with comfortable backs. It can accommodate a traditional Russian samovar, delicious food and a little alcohol to lift your spirits.

The relaxation area in the bathhouse can be made not only in the traditional Russian style. The next example is a luxurious large room, stylized as an expensive classic. The finishing materials used here include wood, slab, and stone. Despite the fact that there are a lot of them, they all organically combine with each other.

The room is decorated in cozy brown and gray tones. Wooden walls and ceilings are combined with cozy brown armchairs, and a neat stone wall is combined with tiled floors. Since the recreation room is quite large, it can be divided into several zones at once. The main one is intended for gatherings with friends. There are chairs and several tables. The rest of the space is freer and can be used as you wish.

Decorative details deserve special attention. It is they, along with thoughtful decoration, that create an atmosphere of luxury in this room. Decorative details include paintings on the walls, forged lamps, and soft pillows.

The last room option is a steam room, decorated in a modern style. Everything here is very simple and minimalistic. The decoration of the entire room is made of light wood, as is the fence for the small stove filled with stones. It is convenient, stylish and safe. Only one of the walls is decorated with stone. It is located behind the stove, which increases its safety. Decorative details in the steam room would be superfluous, so there is only what is needed for a good rest.

Building a bathhouse and finishing all its surfaces is a responsible task. After all, not only the appearance of the room, but also how healthy the atmosphere in the rooms will depend on the choice of materials. Therefore, it is worth considering all the information provided about different types finishing, and then the bathhouse will turn out exactly the way you want it to be, and it will really be pleasant to relax in it and spend free time in the company of loved ones.

Selection of materials

What can't be used in a steam room?

DIY finishing process

Requirements for installing sheathing

Hydro- and thermal insulation of steam room walls

Installation of lining

Features of dressing room finishing

Choosing the right material

What wood should you choose for a bathhouse?

Decorating a steam room

Flooring: wood or ceramics?

Wooden floor finish

Floor finishing with ceramic tiles

Price

Conclusion

Types of wood for making bath trim

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Material processing

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

Choosing the right material

What wood should you choose for a bathhouse?

Decorating a steam room

Flooring: wood or ceramics?

Wooden floor finish

Floor finishing with ceramic tiles

Price

Conclusion

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose material

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Bath lining

Block house for a bathhouse

Magelan

Lining the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard

Lining is...

Choosing lining for cladding

Marking and technical requirements

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

Choosing the method of installing the lining

Installation of lining

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Video - Steam room lathing

Video - Finishing the steam room

How to cover a steam room in a bathhouse - how to choose the right wood

Choice of finishing material

Requirements for the material for covering the steam room

Interior arrangement of the steam room

Nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Bathhouse lining inside: selection of material and installation

What material should you choose for the interior decoration of a bathhouse?

Installation of linden lining

Step 1. Preparation

Step 2. Lathing

Step 3. Insulation and vapor barrier

Step 4. Covering the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse with clapboard

Step 5: Surface treatment

Dye

Wood impregnation solutions

Special varnish coatings

Conclusion

How to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside: stages and cladding technology

Which lining is best for a bathhouse?

Types of wood for making bath trim

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Material processing

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

How to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands?

How to choose the type of lining

Panel fastening schemes

How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard: detailed instructions

Stage 1: preparation for work

Stage 2: frame installation

Stage 3: laying thermal insulation

Calculate the area of the internal lining