Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country (42 photos): choosing a location. Construction of foundation, walls and roof. Installation of doors and windows. Furnace and ventilation device. Do-it-yourself bathhouse: projects, photos, description of construction stages Garden bathhouse projects

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do some gardening or landscaping, and then relax by taking a steam bath, provided that there is one there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It will take a lot of work, but it will be worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then in the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose a suitable project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and install all communications;
• do the interior finishing and only then worry about it.

If, after reading the introduction, you still have the desire to make a bathhouse at your dacha, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place to build a bathhouse

Often summer cottages are no different large sizes, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also norms that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to place the bathhouse on a hill, which would greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
2. It’s good when the bathhouse is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating into the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bathhouse is clearly visible from the window country house. This way you can watch the heating of the bathhouse and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bathhouse can be made as an extension to the house.

So that there is no conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. By paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will provide only the numbers that you will need in order to choose the optimal location for the bathhouse.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

Material from which load-bearing and enclosing structures are made		A distance that directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building
	The same buildings using wooden elements
	Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - from garden house showers, baths and saunas must be located at a distance of at least 8 m.

By the way, failure to comply with these standards can lead to trial with a neighbor and demolishing or moving the bathhouse to another location.

Bathhouse project

When choosing a bathhouse project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden sauna(made of timber or rounded logs).
3. Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, you need to prepare building materials in accordance with its requirements.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame buildings, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you won’t have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built at the dacha does not need insulation.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bathhouse in a country house. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure requires a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bathhouse needs to be heated for a long time. The exception is buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Wood concrete is also often used in the construction of baths. The walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The walls of such a bathhouse are made in a lattice structure. For the frame walls you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can turn to the forums to find out what is acceptable in your region.
• Material for covering the frame outside and inside. Most often used for exterior cladding of buildings OSB boards, edged board, siding or block house, while lining is used on the inside.

Wooden sauna

For the construction of walls the following can be used:

• Natural debarked wood.
• Edged timber.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.
• Rounded log.

Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (rubble, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

If you can buy sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then it’s quite possible to make it at home arbolite blocks enough High Quality. This building material is also available for sale in the form of ready-made blocks. The walls are erected very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of manufacturing monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse

The dressing room and rest room are warm rooms, therefore it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

To cover the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it can withstand high temperature. Products made from pine or spruce cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to release from this wood. Also, you cannot hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can cause harm to human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bathhouse is heated. It’s unlikely that anyone will make such a luxury at their dacha, so we are considering materials for internal insulation unheated bathhouse.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is built into the structure. In a wooden bathhouse you need to make a crate into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation using more complex technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bathhouse and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. The insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to purchase a fake.

Decoration Materials

Because the we're talking about about a bathhouse in the country, let’s not talk about luxurious types of decoration. The best option There will be the use of wood: lining or similar facing materials.

Concerning exterior finishing, then it can be any material that is used for cladding houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Construction of a bathhouse

Now let's look at how you can build a bathhouse in your country house with your own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, who may be one of the family members. IN initial stage To complete the work, some tasks can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let’s be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work simply cannot be completed alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

Marking

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let’s start marking the area. To do this, you need to transfer the outline of the bathhouse to the area in accordance with the scale specified in the project. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is driven in, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered in there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last, fourth peg is driven in.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future building, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, “shortening” the longest axis. After this, you will need to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, adjust again.

If the foundation is strip, then a small discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurately done.

So we designated the dimensions of the bathhouse in accordance with the design data. Further marking is carried out depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Type of foundation	Where is marking used and how is it done?
	Due to its high cost, this type of foundation is done only in cases where it cannot be done without. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the building or a little larger when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bathhouse.
Tape	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.
Columnar	This type of foundation can also often be found. Mainly used for mounting on it wooden buildings. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, markings are carried out according to the number of supports being manufactured.
Screw	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion made on the basis of the fact that it has recently begun to be used in civil engineering. Screw foundation has stood the test of time, since the military began to use it a long time ago. The advantage of installing a foundation on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to carry out excavation work, so the site will remain clean. In addition, with its help you can build a bathhouse even on a site that has a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make your final decision regarding the choice of foundation type.

Pouring the foundation

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
2. Level groundwater quite low.
3. IN winter period The frosts are not very severe.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Don't try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with the simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bathhouse.

• We have the external markings, now we need to complete the internal ones, taking into account that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bathhouse is 3x4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2x4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the stove and at the same time make a foundation for it.
• For convenience, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches in the corners. They need to be aligned in the same plane according to the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

• Need to remove fertile upper layer soil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as bedding.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of the solid clay layer and under no circumstances stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is within the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontalness with a level.
• Now it’s time for the sand bedding. You need to pour a layer of sand at least 15 cm thick inside the trench, moisten it with water and compact it well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrating rammer, but you can also do it manually, using a heavy block with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully compacted.
• Now it’s the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after the foundation is poured. The finished shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete may move them out of place.

• In order not to stain the boards, and to prevent concrete from leaking out through the cracks, the formwork is covered from the inside with plastic film, which must be secured with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic fittings, fastened with binding wire.

• The manufactured frame should not reach the edges by 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to place pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble when exposed to moisture.
• If any communications will pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them; sleeves will help with this, as was done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time so that you can pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be mixed in a concrete mixer, on the basis that you will need 1 bucket of M400 cement, 3 sand, and 5 buckets of crushed stone (or gravel).
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or pinned. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If you are making a foundation for a wooden house, then you need to fix the foundation bolts in the uncured concrete.
• No earlier than a week later the formwork can be removed.

It should be remembered that the concrete has not yet reached its full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bathhouse.

Video: building a foundation for a bathhouse

Wall masonry

When building a bathhouse from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with cement-sand mortar and lay roofing felt on it, folded in half. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is built using cement-sand mortar, while for laying lightweight blocks, mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used.

Having installed the lintels above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, securing the foundation bolts in it for subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to begin making the roof.

Construction of a bath frame

The basis of such a bathhouse is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed various types finishing materials. Need to choose quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

To make the frame, you will need boards made of well-dried larch, aspen or linden, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a lower frame frame is made from 100×100 mm timber. At the ends of the bars you need to make cuts half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50x100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bathhouse.

• At the next stage, the end trim board is installed, and the floor joists are attached right next to it. A timber of 50×100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut so that a second end trim board can be installed.
• The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes closely between them, then the end trim boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from 50x100 mm timber, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure vapor barrier of a frame bath, you need to use vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. As thermal insulation material mineral wool or fiberglass is used. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in a frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay a floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be replaced in a few years. Considering that the dacha at the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and cover it with tiles. They stack on it wooden boards, which can be taken out to dry in the barn and safely go home.

It is clear that for frame and other buildings installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bathhouse

Roof construction

Any bathhouse should have a reliable roof, but the options for creating it may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will easily penetrate into the attic and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to flow onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of roofing type, since it is necessary to take into account technical specifications buildings.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the dacha is located in a steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof should be minimal.
• For small bathhouses and light snow loads, the roof can be made pitched. The same roof is most often made on a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bathhouse roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although for interior decoration Wood is most often used; not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, and therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a relaxation room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing a wooden and brick bathhouse with clapboard is done almost the same way. First, the sheathing is attached to the wall, and then the lining is attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the lathing.

Exterior finishing is done not only to make the bathhouse beautiful, but also to protect it. For finishing a bath with outside You can use the following materials:

• Imitation of timber.
• Siding.
• Lining.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Dye.

All you have to do is choose the appropriate material and finish the facade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is also an opinion that good ventilation there is no need in the steam room, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and heat evaporates from the bathhouse. It is very hot in such a steam room at the top, and your feet are cold.

In fact, during bathing procedures, the air in the room should be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located below near the boiler, and the exhaust under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to rapidly escape from the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

This device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When you need to thoroughly ventilate the steam room, the upper ventilation hole (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bathhouse. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it possible to close ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

Canopy and all furniture for country bathhouse you can make it yourself. If you don’t want to make anything else, then there are many offers online for selling everything you need for your garden.

If you really want to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs repair, but you just can’t get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last for a considerable period. The main requirement is not to use furniture made of chipboard, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Scheme

Photo: original baths

Today, the bathhouse is increasingly gaining popularity among people rushing in the cycle of modern life.

The beneficial properties of bath procedures on the human body have long been proven by science, which is why many owners of personal plots strive to build this structure in their yard.

This article brings to your attention material with which you will become familiar with modern approaches used in construction for these premises.

For visual convincing, just look at the selection of photos that show ready-made solutions regarding the construction of the entire frame and interior decoration.

Types of bath projects

Any construction begins with a project that will allow you to imagine what the final appearance of this structure will be and how much necessary materials you will need for this.

In addition, the development of the project includes such parameters as the choice of location for construction, dimensions, as well as information about the decor and design used.

The most common types of bathhouse projects are:

• Construction of a 3*3 m structure, consisting of a standard set of premises - a dressing room and a steam room;
• Construction of a 3*5 m structure, here a recreation room with a small kitchen is added to the standard set of premises;

• A plan with dimensions of 4 * 4 m implies the presence of a terrace in addition to the type described above;
• The design of a bathhouse with dimensions 5 * 4 includes the entire complex of premises of a modern steam room, which may also have a separate toilet, game room, as well as a salt room.

Basically, the choice of project depends on the available space on the plot and financial capabilities.

Choosing a foundation for a bath

Often, during the construction of this structure, one of three main types of foundation is used. It can be a strip, column or pile foundation.

Tape. It is the most common type of foundation for the construction of most structures, including a bathhouse.

The advantage of this foundation is that it can withstand heavy loads, therefore, if your future building will have relatively impressive dimensions made of brick, then this foundation option is ideal for construction.

Columnar. Has distinctive features associated with simple device of this foundation and small financial investments, it is mainly used for relatively light structures made of timber.

It is erected exclusively in places where heavy loads occur, which mainly occur at the corners of the building and at the intersection of load-bearing structures.

Pile. This type of foundation is necessary for those who are forced to build their bathhouse on “moving” soil.

This reliable look with a rather labor-intensive construction process, and is justified precisely in those regions in which this type of soil dominates.

Mistakes made when building a bathhouse

Despite the existence of a developed project and the seriousness of the attitude towards this matter, mistakes still occur that are characteristic of a person when building with his own hands.

It is necessary to pay attention to the following points during construction.

Necessary competent planning dimensions of interior spaces. A bathhouse designed for 2-3 people should not be less than 10 m2;

An acceptable ceiling height for such a structure is considered to be 2-2.5 m. If the figure deviates downward from this figure, visitors will feel discomfort, and if it deviates upward, there will be an overconsumption of coolants;

It is recommended to choose materials used to build a bathhouse in a country house or garden that are lightweight and energy-saving.

Particular attention must be paid to the main bath equipment. It should not only look beautiful, but also meet all safety standards for such structures.

Photo of a bathhouse at a summer cottage

Hello! I'll tell you how I built a bathhouse at the dacha. Built alone. Sometimes only (when installing heavy or long parts) did he ask someone to help (when installing the frame and rafters).

Well, I'll start from the beginning. First, we determine the area where the bathhouse will be. We mark the location of the future foundation and begin digging.

We are digging under the foundation.

Since our site is located on quicksand, the foundation was made stronger. I bought pieces of reinforcement at a collection point for ferrous scrap metal. I welded a frame out of them and laid them on bricks so that the metal did not touch the ground.

Next, we make formwork so that the foundation protrudes above the surface. For the formwork I used chipboard from old cabinets. I placed the straight edges up and leveled it around the entire perimeter. This is necessary so that you don’t have to remove the level with a brick later. We lay a sewer pipe to drain the water.

Next we fill it with concrete. You can bring ready-made concrete with a mixer (this is if there are access routes for the mixer). In my case, it was not possible for a mixer to be accessible. I ordered 1 Kamaz OPGS (Enriched Sand-Gravel Mixture). They dumped it on the plot (by the way, my plot is small, only 4 acres). And all the hard work began. From one end of the site to the bathhouse, I carry 3 buckets of OPGS + 1 bucket of cement on a construction wheelbarrow. I added water on the spot and mixed it in the same wheelbarrow with a shovel, poured the finished mixture and leveled it. Since I did it all alone, it took me 2 days. At that time, I thought it was pointless to buy a concrete mixer, but later it turned out that it would be better to buy it, because then I would fill the paths and other little things. In short, if you have such an idea, buy a stirrer, it costs 7-8 thousand. For one thing, we fill the foundation for the stove.

We wait until the poured foundation sets and gets stronger and begins to lay out the base of red brick. Between the foundation and the brick I put a layer of waterproofing on it, 2 rows of brick. When laying bricks, I left 50mm sewer pipes for ventilation and one polypropylene pipe for cold water supply.

We bring the log house and lay out all the logs in order so that later we don’t have to look for the ones we need.

I already put 2 layers of TechnoNIKOL waterproofing material on the finished brick base and began to assemble the frame. I sanded each log using a grinder with a sanding attachment. I used jute to seal the joints. They were waiting to nail it with a stapler and when installing the log, they threw it in to crush the jute. The log house has been assembled. Immediately treated the outside with a bug and weatherproofing treatment.

The log house has been assembled.

Rafters and sheathing.

Pediments.

Waiting room.

Entrance door.

The ceiling is made of 40mm boards. I glued it with foil and covered it with aspen clapboard, and insulated it with ecowool on top.

Shelf frame.

The stove is fenced from the log house.

The floors in the dressing room were covered with yacht varnish.

Well, this is what happened in the end.

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A vacation without a bath is not a vacation. Neither a summer shower nor a bath can replace a bathhouse in a suburban area. Of course, if your budget is very limited, you should not attempt to build a two-story bathhouse complex with a swimming pool. But it is possible to build a small cozy bathhouse on a suburban plot with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how to build a budget sauna with your own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent lapses and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. A wooden bathhouse can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Tree - classic material for the construction of baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths quickly warm up, and the essential resins released into the air have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from an ideal option for construction. In order for the walls of the bathhouse to be smooth, you need to choose high-quality timber or logs. Don't forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead.”

It is important to be able to work with an ax and a saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut locks to connect corners, external and internal walls, and ceilings. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this involves additional costs and is not relevant for the construction of a budget bathhouse. It is best to carry out the construction with at least two people, because it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns alone, especially the top ones.

For the construction of a bathhouse, hardwood, such as linden, is best suited. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight strip version (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and finishing. If the bathhouse will be used for its intended purpose only in the warm season, there is no need to purchase insulation, beams for sheathing, steam and wind insulation, finishing decorative material for the facade of the bathhouse. Wood, if sanded and coated well protective impregnation, varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into the landscape design of private land plots.

In a budget bathhouse, you can save on organizing a full-fledged sewerage system and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made to pour, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant experience of the bath procedures.

What can't you save on? Wood is a highly flammable material. If you just neglect to close the ash door, a falling hot ember will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible if fire safety rules are neglected when installing a stove and Therefore, in no case should you skimp on:

• fire-bioprotective impregnation;
• fire cutting;
• materials for insulating the floor in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, and unsightly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of their strength.

It is very important to properly organize ventilation in wooden baths. Even if the bathhouse is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to like the aroma of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now let’s talk more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.

Lumber	Breed	Section or diameter, cm	Price in rubles per cubic meter
Profiled timber	Pine, spruce	140x140	From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles.
Profiled timber	Larch	140x140	From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles.
Round timber	Larch	From 180 to 460	From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles.
Carriage	Larch	150x250	From 15 thousand rubles.

*The average cost of building materials is current for 2017.

Based on the cost of new lumber, budget sauna It definitely won't work. The way out of the situation is to buy used timber at a price of 1000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also be useful if used correctly.

Bricks and blocks

A bathhouse made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. And a fire that suddenly breaks out is not scary stone walls. At your own taste and discretion, you can build a bathhouse of any size and shape, as long as funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a wide range of products from the most different forms, shades, textures. For example, by combining bricks of two different shades when building walls, you can build a bathhouse that will be very neat and aesthetically pleasing in appearance.

On a note! IN brick bath the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmittance. But in this case, it is important to take care of effective ventilation.

A brick bath takes longer to warm up than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. Brick walls need finishing, and this adds expense items to the overall estimate. For laying bricks, a cement-sand mortar is used, which can be bought ready-made and simply diluted with water in the required proportions, or you can prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bathhouse made of M100 ordinary brick?

Building material	Description	Price
	Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm.	From 6.20 rub. for 1 piece.
	Has the same dimensions as a regular one. Used for laying those walls that are exposed to direct heat. For example, a base for a stove and a protective screen are laid out of fireclay bricks.	From 41 rub. for 1 piece.
	River sand for preparing masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation	From 68 rubles for 30 kg
	The purpose is the same as that of sand. Crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm.	From 86 rub. for 30 kg
	M400	From 195 rub. for 50 kg

For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, let’s take single brick and laying in one brick (wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data we get:

• taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry requires 102 bricks;
• 102 bricks x 6.20 rub. = 632.4 rub.

Brick prices

Typically, bricks are purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible defects. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of wall you need to add the cost of the mortar. Don’t forget that you may need a concrete mixer, joint compound, a set of mason’s tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. The disadvantages are similar to bricks.

The blocks are laid with reinforcement in the rows, fixation is carried out special glue or cement-sand mortar.

To build a bathhouse, blocks measuring 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions, blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 piece.

Number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

• with a wall thickness of 20 cm, in one square meter the walls will be 5.5 blocks (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
• with a wall thickness of 30 cm, there will be 8.33 blocks in one square meter of wall (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bathhouse, it is preferable to use not brick, but blocks 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. You need to take into account the cost of glue for the blocks (from 155 rubles for 30 kg, consumption is approximately 1.2- 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that blocks are purchased with a reserve.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bathhouse. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for pennies, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bathhouse, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bathhouse from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided the reinforcement is done correctly, the walls will not crack. Even when building a budget bathhouse, you should not neglect the safety margin of the walls, so as not to start working in the next few years major repairs baths

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of a bathhouse made of aerated concrete with a brick base

We will consider the process of building a bathhouse with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to arrange three main rooms: a relaxation room or dressing room, a shower room, and a steam room. If the free space on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bathhouse, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the internal space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower or other amenities.

So, let's begin. Inspect your plot of land and prepare the site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove the top layer of soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the area.

You need to prepare a bathhouse design in advance with the order of the masonry. Using the drawings it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and carry out construction.

Mark the area, dig trenches, fill shallow strip foundation. Don't forget about the products. You can read more about pouring technology.

It is important to especially carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, however, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We lay waterproofing material, for example, strips of roofing felt, on the foundation strip.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

Step 2. Mix cement-sand mortar for brick laying. To prepare the solution we use the following proportions:

• cement M400 – 1 bucket;
• sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
• dishwashing detergent or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water to the concrete mixer or solution container and detergent, then add cement and sand, stirring constantly. Consistency ready solution it will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, non-blurring trace will remain. Kneading should be carried out for 3 to 5 minutes.

We transfer the finished solution into buckets and transport it to the construction site.

Step 3. We begin laying the brick plinth. We will work from the corners of the bathhouse.

Apply the mortar to the brick with a trowel. We lay the brick on the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). Place a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, tap the brick with the handle of a trowel. We repeat the procedure at the next corner of the bathhouse foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we tighten the mooring thread and additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. Place the second brick at each corner perpendicular to the first.

We lay the plinth “in one and a half bricks”. At standard sizes bricks, the total width of the base will be 38 cm. This width is made up of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is the connecting mortar seam.

Place the first outer row with a spoon facing outwards. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing it into the mortar and moving it slightly back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. We immediately remove the excess solution with a trowel. We knock the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the “street” side, you will see a row laid “in half a brick.”

We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bathhouse. Next, we carry out the laying according to the order scheme, observing the bandaging of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and move on to arranging the floor covering.

Step 4. To arrange the floor covering, you need to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the “sockets” of the plinth to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width interior space, add 20 cm, we get the length of the beams. The section of beams can be selected using the table.

*Section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum floor load 400 kg/m 3 .

We cut the roofing felt into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing felt and fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on their ends, maintaining an equal distance between them.

We continue with bricklaying.

We lay out two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single row brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints will be 150 mm high, the top surface of the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Laying the fourth row

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the mortar. The masonry will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5. The basement is built, we move on to laying walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing felt on the brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bathhouse.

We begin work again from the corners of the bathhouse. Mix the solution and place a layer on top of the roofing material.

Level the solution with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the plinth. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. We check using a hydraulic level, bubble level, if available. laser level, it's better to use it.

There is no hurry here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow installing a whole block, you need to use a hacksaw with small teeth to make a cut. After cutting, sweep away the dust with a brush.

When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6. Let's move on to reinforcing the first row of blocks.

We prepare a set of tools for work in advance.

Tool	Approximate minimum cost, rub.
	450
	490
	500
	600
	365

*Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement we use corrugated rods of class A3. The diameter of the rods is 8 mm. It is not advisable to take reinforcement of greater thickness.

Using a hand wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw two parallel straight lines using a ruler on the surface of the blocks in advance with a pencil. At the corners of the bathhouse and at the junction of the internal partitions with the external walls, the grooves are round and parallel.

We clean the surface of the groove from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in grooves. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. Please ensure that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The rods can be connected at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We remove the reinforcement from the grooves and place it on the surface of the blocks.

Mix glue for aerated concrete (approximate cost for 25 kg - 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then add the dry mixture from the bag. Mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue should not spread.

Fill the grooves with glue. Spread the glue with a spatula. We embed the reinforcement in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without grooves or bumps.

Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a dressing similar to brickwork"half a brick." The displacement of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ the length of the block.

It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must correspond to the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the glue quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, for example, as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched spatulas or special ladles that can reduce glue consumption.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.

To make tying the blocks easier, you can start laying with half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. Sweep away the dust with a brush. Apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bathhouse is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Step 8 We move on to laying lintels and their reinforcement.

There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes with additional costs.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the recess on the block with a hacksaw, then remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

To lay the blocks, we make formwork from boards. The blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with supports and fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The reinforced belt should protrude beyond the window and door opening by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. We fasten the ends of the blocks with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

Let's start knitting the armored belt. For tying we use plastic clamps (ties). The reinforced belt consists of four long parallel rods, and every 0.5 m there are vertical sections of reinforcement. In cross-section, the armored belt should form a square.

Important! The armored belt cannot be laid directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the reinforced frame will not occupy correct position and will not be filled with concrete mixture on all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. We compact the concrete mixture by piercing it with a rod or wooden strip. Level the surface as thoroughly as possible.

Now you need to take a technical break and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has hardened, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, we lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will serve as an armored belt.

We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be poured along the entire perimeter of the external and internal walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

1. We lay the entire row of prepared blocks on the glue.

   

   

   

2. We install polystyrene foam boards. We cut them carefully, using a ruler, so that the edges are even.
3. We knit a reinforced frame.

   

   

4. We install the clamps and lay the frame inside the blocks.

   

   We pour concrete.

5. Level the surface.
6. We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. Let's move on to arrangement interfloor covering. It will be wooden. We place antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends on an armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the base was built.

But since now we are not laying brick, but gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We lay the blocks in a standard manner, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our construction example, the bathhouse will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams extend beyond the bathhouse wall.

Step 11 Laying the subfloor. We lay the edged board on top of the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws right through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, take hardware 8 cm long.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are installed, decorative finishing will be done, a foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, clapboard or a simple board made of hardwood will be nailed.

Step 12 Usually one-story bathhouse owners have enough for a comfortable pastime. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put a small sofa and a table, setting up a relaxation room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be pleasant to relax, cool down, go out to the small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and reduce the cost of building materials.

The roof has a complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicularly located roof slopes on both sides are clearly visible.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple pitched or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

• installation of vertical racks made of timber;
• installation of horizontal piping;

  

• laying floor beams on top of the frame;

  

  

  

• installation of extreme trusses along the gables;

  

  Floor beams and rafters

  

  

• installation of intermediate trusses;

  

• masonry of gables from blocks;

  

  

• installation of vapor barrier on the room side;

  

• lining the ceiling and slopes from the inside with boards;

  

• styling mineral wool in two layers;

  

• installation of wind protection on top of the insulation;

  

• installation of counter-lattice under metal tiles;

  

  

• assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation of a windproof membrane and counter-lattice on the canopy slopes;

  

• installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

  

  

  

  

You can watch the video to see how a roof of complex configuration is erected.

Prices for gas blocks

gas blocks

Video – Roof construction

Video - Construction of gables

Video - Rafters, armored belt

Video - Completion of installation of rafters, laying aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter-lattice for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bathhouse

Step 1. We attach the Mauerlat on top of the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (wood grouse).

We drill holes in the boards and then in the blocks. We hammer in the dowels. We lay a layer of roofing felt as waterproofing. We lay the Mauerlat board and screw in the screws (capcaillie).

Step 2. We install vertical posts and horizontal strapping beams. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bathhouse – 30 cm. The roof slope will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

On a note! To prevent the racks from loosening due to gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3. We lay the rafters (we place straight boards on edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal beams of the front and rear frames).

Step 4. We install counter-lattice boards perpendicular to the rafters.

Step 5. We fasten the corrugated sheets. We cut off the counter-battens sticking out at the edges of the boards.

Step 6. We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install posts made of timber and one additional jib to later attach the sheathing.

Step 7 We hem the rough ceiling.

Step 8 We cover the frame with plywood. We treat plywood sheets with protective impregnation.

Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.

Step 10 If decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we attach protective canopies made of tin.

Plaster can be used as a decorative finish for the facade of a bathhouse. It is necessary to select a mixture for cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from any remaining glue and sand off any unevenness, if any. After sanding, you need to apply the “Aerated Concrete-Contact” primer to the walls. Plaster mortar applied with a wide spatula over a fiberglass mesh secured with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.

When designing baths, you should take into account many factors - from location to area. Financial opportunities also play a significant role; if the bathhouse is planned primarily as a place for family recreation, then it is not necessary to build a palace.

For full functioning, 2-3 rooms are enough - a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. The last two rooms are sometimes combined into one to save space.

Layout of a small bathhouse

In an effort to reduce the space occupied by a bathhouse, you should not be too zealous - there are certain standards. So, two people should fit freely in the steam room, taking into account the fact that they use brooms. If it is very crowded, then you will hardly be able to enjoy going to the bathhouse.

Features of the layout of a bathhouse with a small area

Small log sauna

Layout small bathhouse begins with the choice of material for its construction - it can be a log, timber, brick or foam blocks. Wooden structure the most preferable, since it allows you to breathe easily and freely, and naturally maintains a balance between humidity and high air temperature.

What you should especially pay attention to:

• Foundation - the weight of the structure does not require the construction of a powerful foundation; the best option is a strip or support-pile foundation. There will be no need to carry out significant excavation work for them;
• The convenient arrangement of the rooms inside will facilitate both the process of visiting the bathhouse and the preparation for it;
• It is advisable to install the stove in the dressing room so that it can be lit without interfering with others going into the steam room or washing room. The firebox must be protected from the possibility of accidental fire;
• An important point is ventilation. It is carried out through windows and doors. It is better to give preference to wooden ones window structures- This is an environmentally friendly material that emits a pleasant aroma. In addition, it is a source of natural air exchange;
• Small baths are built according to the same rules as their large-scale counterparts - the shelves are located along a blank wall, door threshold high and the box is low. This is important so that less steam comes out when opening;
• There should be no locks, and all doors in the bathhouse open outward.

The useful area of ​​the bathhouse cannot be less than 10 square meters. meters, otherwise it will be impossible to steam in it and wash comfortably.

Convenient bath layout for two people

Bathhouse project of 3 rooms

It is not always possible to build a spacious bathhouse and you have to be content with modest dimensions. But even if it is not possible for two people to be in the steam room at the same time, then the presence of a separate washing room will allow the structure to be used for its intended purpose.

Competent design internal space makes it functional:

• Dressing room - area will be 2.7 square meters. meters. It can be used both as a locker room and as a rest room. But its main purpose is to prevent the penetration of cold air;
• The plan of a small bathhouse necessarily includes a washing area - an area of ​​1.7 square meters. meters. There are two options - install a shower stall or equip a simple shower. The second is to place stools and basins, and pour water into them from a tank located behind the stove. With such a volume, you can fit everything you need in it. It will be heated by a stove chimney;
• And the most important room is the steam room. Its area is 1.14 square meters. meters. The heater is placed in the corner, so it will give off some of the heat to the washing area. It will not be possible to place a lounger, so you will have to steam on a stool or bench.

Note! If a residential building does not have a bath or shower, then a small bathhouse is an excellent solution. She will combine business with pleasure.

Project of a small bathhouse of two rooms

Small frame bath from timber

If you don’t want to huddle in tiny rooms, then by combining a steam room and a washing room, you can get good result. External size the bathhouse can be 3.6 * 2 meters - this is quite enough.

How to build a small sauna with your own hands plot of land, this is only possible with a carefully thought-out design:

• Dressing room with a total area of ​​2.4 sq. meters - here you can already turn around. The dimensions allow you to place a tiny table where you can enjoy drinking tea. The role of the locker room remains;
• The steam room and washing room are combined to create a room of 3 square meters. meters. The shower will have to be sacrificed, but now there will be a full-fledged sun lounger and a bench for washing. Basins with water are placed on it. Excess moisture There is no need for a shower, it will make the air heavier and make breathing difficult.

To ensure that the benefits of bathing procedures in this project are not reduced, the following instructions must be followed:

• Install a more powerful stove that can heat two rooms at once;
• Do not spray water around the steam room - this will increase the humidity;
• Bathing procedures begin in the steam room, and only then begin washing.

Photo of a small bathhouse on the lake shore

In both layout options, the door should open outward, and the building itself should be installed no less than 5-10 meters from the permanent house. These are mandatory fire safety requirements. Ceilings in the bathhouse should not be made more than 2.2 meters, and door frame more than 1.5 meters. Otherwise, it will not retain heat.

The stove can be any - electric, wood or gas. But the latter is not very desirable. Electric is easy to install and makes it easier to control the temperature level.

But the best one is wood-burning. It creates a unique spirit and aroma of the bathhouse.

Price wood stove not that high

A bathhouse is the dream of almost every owner of a suburban area. But the size of the plot does not always allow for the construction of a large and spacious structure, and then you have to be content with the small. But this does not make the bathhouse any less functional.

With the right approach to planning, it turns out useful and convenient. The video in this article will tell you in more detail about small bathhouses and their advantages.

Small bathhouse: how to build it yourself, layout, video instructions, plan, photo and price

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands

The primary task facing every owner suburban area- this is the construction of a small bathhouse located not far from the country house. Our article will talk about how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands, which would fit perfectly into the space of a small household plot.

The starting material used for the construction of such a structure is most often traditional wood beams. For those wishing to deviate from established traditions, such common building materials as brick, silicate and foam blocks or natural (artificial) stone can be offered.

Structural features

The bathhouse, measuring 3x3 m, is a small one-story building that can accommodate 2-3 people at a time. Its usable area usually does not exceed 8‒8.5 m² and is distributed as follows:

Note that the dressing room in such a bathhouse is also used as a relaxation room. Despite the limited size of the room, it is usually possible to fit a small table and 2-3 benches. The table can be made folding, which allows you to free up as much space in the dressing room as possible while lighting the stove and cleaning the room.

When choosing the design of a bathhouse building, one should not exclude from consideration the option of a small-sized structure that is simply attached to the main residential building.

What to build a bathhouse from?

The simplest and cheapest manufacturing method wooden bath made of timber is considered to be the use of a standard frame structure installed on a lightweight strip-type foundation.

A bathhouse made from traditional “round timber” also looks good, which is well-sanded logs selected according to the appropriate diameter. Forest moss is usually used as insulation in these structures, laid between the individual crowns.

In addition to timber and round timber, profiled or laminated timber can be used to construct a bathhouse. In any case, the material you choose must be well dried (that is, subjected to a shrinkage procedure in advance). Thanks to this, you will be able to start using the sauna building immediately after finishing it.

Note! When erecting a structure made of brick or stone, the strip foundation for a bathhouse must be designed for a heavy load.

Work order

The construction of a bathhouse from the material you have chosen is usually carried out in the following order:

Foundation preparation

Basically, the type of foundation is not a whim of the customer, but is selected based on many factors. Often, for the construction of a bathhouse, a pile or columnar foundation. In some cases it may be necessary to manufacture slab foundation. We will consider only one type of foundation, which is more universal and applicable in most cases.

The strip foundation for a log house made of three-meter timber is made shallow, which is also acceptable when using rounded logs. The procedure for its preparation is as follows:

1. First, a square of appropriate dimensions is marked, after which trenches 10–15 cm wide are dug to a depth exceeding the soil freezing mark.
2. The bottom of the dug trench is covered with a layer of sand about 15 cm thick, which is then spilled with water and thoroughly compacted. After compaction is completed, the bottom of the trench is filled with crushed stone, after which it will be possible to proceed to the preparation of formwork, assembled from ordinary unedged boards.
3. Imported or self-made formwork is poured into the finished formwork concrete mixture, which should include moisture-resistant cement.
4. Foundation waterproofing is carried out using a suitable roll material(roofing felt, for example).

Walling

When assembling a box from 100×100 beams for the lower crowns, it is advisable to use larch or aspen blanks with a larger cross-section (150×150 cm, for example). The base frame is attached to the foundation using special plates, the counterpart of which is fixed to the lower beam of the frame.

The construction of the foundation is carried out using one of the well-known methods, which involves the use of the method of joining beams (logs). Given the relative lightness of three-meter beams, the assembly of the frame is most often done manually and without assistants.

For reliable connection between the crowns (without gaps), pre-prepared wooden dowels and a special jute seal are used.

Manufacturing of roof, ceiling and floor

When arranging a roof for a 3x3 meter bathhouse, preference is usually given to one of the simplest structures: single-pitch or gable. Optimal angle The slope of the roof is selected taking into account the brand of material used as the roofing (inexpensive roofing felt or slate are most often used for these purposes). You can see a sample of roofing arrangement in the photo located at the end of the article.

At the next stage of work, the ceiling is installed, made in the form of flooring, laid directly on the walls of the building. The floor covering is fixed on special logs placed directly on the foundation.

Interior decoration of the building

Before finishing the bathhouse, the walls and ceiling of the building are reliably insulated; wherein Special attention is given steam room. To finish it, it is advisable to use natural views insulating material (mineral wool, for example) followed by applying a layer of foil on it. Note that the foil in this case is used as a reflector capable of retaining heat inside the steam room.

After installation of the insulation and foil is completed, the walls and ceiling of the room are sheathed with clapboard made from special types of wood (linden or aspen).

As for the dressing room, it is not at all necessary to use expensive materials to decorate it; the walls of this room can simply be impregnated with special waterproof varnishes that perfectly highlight the texture of the wood.

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands - building a small sauna

Learn how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands. The article describes how and from what materials to build such a small bathhouse.

Do-it-yourself small sauna

A small do-it-yourself sauna is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the dacha is limited. In addition, with this solution you can significantly save your budget, but as a result you will get a full-fledged vacation spot, which will not only relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a pleasant time with family and friends.

Examples of projects

IN ideal The bathhouse includes 4 rooms in its design:

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of your stay is not lost. The overall size of the building will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

• 1.20 mx2.50 m. Very compact solution. In this case, the bathhouse consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m×1.50 m, the second - 1 m×1.20 m. There is no rest room, but in the dressing room you can easily change clothes. The washing room can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
• 2.50 m×2.50 m. In terms of the number of rooms - the same as the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m×1.50 m, the dressing room is 1 m×2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize additional space for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can comfortably fit.
• 3 m×3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If you want the steam room to accommodate three people, then it can be made 3 m x 1.50 m in size; the washing room can be made separate by placing a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room of 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there will be space that can be used as a relaxation room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
• 4 m×3 m. In this case, you can separate 4 m2 for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, leaving 2 m × 3 m for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can comfortably fit. They will be able to be in the steam room at the same time, and also enjoy communication in the waiting room.
• 4 m×4 m. In such an area you can already turn around well. The steam room can be left measuring 2 m × 2 m. A separate dressing room can be made measuring 2 m × 1.50 m. The rest room in this case is 4 m × 2 m (one side will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room; for this, an electric boiler and a shower stall are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the premises within accessible limits. You may want to reduce the steam room because... there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Choosing material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on the project you choose, as well as the amount of money planned. For example, you can use ordinary brick. You can read how to build a brick sauna here. The following points will be positive:

• availability;
• ease of delivery;
• relative ease of construction;
• long service life (with proper care– up to 150 years);
• ease of maintenance;
• possibility of combination with the main structure;
• when using new brick there is no need for cladding;
• freedom to choose the form of construction.

The negative aspects include:

• high cost of material;
• the need for good ventilation, because brick has poor vapor conductivity;
• lighting such a bathhouse takes more time than building made of wood;
• high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

• light weight with large size;
• high laying speed;
• ease of adjustment of block shapes;
• good thermal insulation;
• relatively low price;
• excellent sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• If you follow the recommendations, there will be little glue consumption.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

• uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
• Shrinkage may occur over several months;
• poor bending resistance.

The most favorite manufacturing method is a rounded log. A lot can be said about its advantages, here are just a few:

• high environmental friendliness;
• pleasant appearance;
• low heat capacity;
• no need for interior and exterior finishing;
• pleasant internal atmosphere.

The negative side is:

• unprofitable to use in small buildings;
• some complexity of construction;
• high cost of material;
• long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is the construction of a frame structure. Minimal construction skills will be required for this method. The advantages are:

• no need for a massive foundation;
• availability of materials;
• relatively low cost compared to other options;
• ease of care;
• very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
• ease of laying communications;
• seismic resistance;
• no shrinkage.

One of the disadvantages is the need to organize good sound insulation. High level of noise – transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to ensure good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case where a really small bathhouse is planned, there is no point in sinking the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you won’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

• The first thing that needs to be done is to clearly define the territory that will be allocated for construction.
• Next, debris is removed. In addition, you will need to remove the top layer of soil with grass to make it easier for you to carry out further tasks.
• Using pegs, the boundaries of the future building are marked.
• Special holders are made to make it easier to navigate with excavation. To do this, two pieces of board 50x50 cm (or whatever is at hand) are sharpened on one side and connected using a transverse crossbar from a board 10 cm wide, its length should be about 70 cm. You will need 8 such structures. They are installed two at each corner of the house. Between them two fishing lines are stretched to the width of the future foundation. Be sure to check that all angles correspond to 90°. This way you get clearly defined lines that will be difficult to move even if you hit them.

At the stage of laying the foundation, provision is made for the supply of necessary communications. This could be a water supply and sewer drain for washing water.

Pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored or driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcement rods are lowered and the entire space is filled with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are driven in immediately. The most suitable options for a small bath will be screw ones. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades that help immerse the supports into the ground. You can purchase them or make them yourself. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

• The first step is to find out to what depth the soil freezes. To do this, you can contact the appropriate service.
• Pipe blanks with a diameter of 110 mm are purchased. The thickness of its wall should be more than 3 mm. The total length should be such that it can be sunk below the freezing level by 50 cm and at the same time so that it is 30-40 cm above the ground surface. Additionally, you can buy blanks for screws. It is also necessary to make a square cap on the pile. It should be 25x25 cm in size and 5-6 mm thick.

In each of the described options, separate supporting elements for the stove should also be provided, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can lead to damage to the floor and joists.

Construction of brick walls

For a bathhouse, it is better to use red brick, which has undergone heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the amount of material needed, you need to calculate the area of ​​each wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of ​​one brick. The area of ​​the masonry joints can be neglected, because you will still need to make a reserve in case of battle or marriage.

The wall can be erected using several methods:

• in two bricks with external insulation.
• with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
• with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because... It is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To maintain the vertical level of future walls, two are dug into the corners. metal profiles 5x5 cm and a length equal to the height of the future walls. They are leveled and secured with jibs. A fishing line is stretched between them to the height of one row. After it is laid, the line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20-25 mm. It should be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using a bubble level. If the second and third types of masonry are chosen, then it is necessary to ensure a bandage between the two walls. This is achieved by laying two bricks transversely opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should be offset by half a brick to ensure the overall interweaving of the entire plane.

A lintel must be installed over windows or doorways. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can purchase it ready-made or pour it directly on site. It should extend beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed and a wooden board is mounted on them. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them there are reinforcement rods, which should also extend 25 cm beyond the opening, and it is better to bend them to intertwine them with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete hardening (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general installation principle will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start with the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made from profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

• In order to achieve the best adhesion, the base row is laid on cement mortar. It is better to make the ratio with sand 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
• All other rows are fixed with special glue.
• The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
• Every 3 rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam, which serves to provide additional rigidity.
• Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
• Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

This is exactly the option that comes to mind when it comes to a bathhouse. To make it, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make from this material external wall. Because The structure is small, it is good if the partitions are framed.

After the construction of the walls is completed, primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply driven into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation is erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is carried out according to the example of the grillage discussed above. For the corner posts we will need exactly the same timber as for the base. In addition, you will need to stock up edged board a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5–10 cm.

• At the base, it is imperative to check the diagonals so that they are the same. It is attached to the concrete foundation using anchor bolts. It is advisable to recess the head. For this purpose, a countersunk groove is made in advance. Waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing felt is laid under the grillage on a concrete foundation.

Erection of the roof

For small buildings ideal solution there will be a pitched roof. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, in the case of a wall made of brick and foam block, waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base using anchor bolts or walled-in studs. Beams are laid on top onto which the sheathing will be placed. They can be secured to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another option, the walls are made the same. They are placed on the Mauerlat ceiling beams. On one side are installed vertical boards, which will form a pediment, descend from them rafter legs on another wall. At the point where they adjoin the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. They are secured with metal corners. To make it easier to maintain the roof in one plane, the two outermost elements are installed first. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the top of the ceiling crossbars. Thick foil can play this role. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed in the space between the beams. Additionally, it is covered with plastic film. WITH inside The filing is made using wooden lining or polished edged boards.

Finish line

An integral part of every sauna is the stove. You can make it yourself from sheet material or metal pipe large diameter. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it can take up a large space. For small spaces it is better to use electric options, which are purchased ready-made.

A shelf is installed inside the steam room. It's better not to use it conifers wood, because When heated, it may release resin, causing burns. Good stuff for her there will be aspen, larch, linden or oak. If the space is small, a width of 40 cm will be sufficient; it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fastening material must be flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the entire structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, you must use a double braided cable. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually the marking has the prefix “ng”). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. There are no switches installed in the steam room itself. The lamps used are waterproof with an index of IP68.

Make sure there is good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with output to the gable through the roof. This will be enough to ensure that all moisture is removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bathhouse from. Choose the option that suits you best.

Small sauna with your own hands - how to build

This article tells you how to build a small sauna. Find out more about preferred materials, sizes and other options.

What and how to build a simple bathhouse in the country?

Washing in a country bathhouse is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. In a minimal plan, such a structure is erected in a few days.

In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in your country house quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, we will discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among craftsmen.

Design Features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

• Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
• Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
• Compact, quick heating oven.
• Effective sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see a simple bathhouse, reminiscent of Diogenes’ barrel. You can only take a steam bath in it. You won't be able to wash yourself here because there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bathhouse and lead the drain pipe into the septic tank.

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, allowing it to be placed on a plank terrace.

The device itself the simplest bath from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with a summer shower or add a sewerage system to the room, and the stove - a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's turn our attention to cellular polycarbonate. It can be quickly and easily assembled original design. In order for it to retain heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden blocks. A mineral wool insulation 10 cm thick is laid between them.

The ends of the building can be made from boards, stuffed onto an insulated wooden frame. Place such a bathhouse anywhere: at your dacha, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo No. 5).

A small Russian bathhouse, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photograph No. 6.

Larger structures require own foundation. There are three possible options here:

1. Rubble concrete tape.
2. Brick columns.
3. Piles made of asbestos cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and wall design. Pile and columnar foundations are used to install a wooden frame, as well as for bathhouses made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (made of gas silicate blocks, logs and frames).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of a bathhouse is obtained using a technology called “clay mortar”. For such a structure you will need little: a truck of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo No. 10).

The best shape for a wood burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce masonry corners and looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

By borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build such a simple and warm bathhouse (photo No. 11).

Recommendations for choosing finishing, insulation, sewerage installation, flooring, roofing and stove

For the exterior finishing of a frame bath, we can recommend the following materials:

• Wooden blockhouse.
• Metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
• Plastic siding.
• Cement particle board (CSB).
• OSB board.
• Flat slate.

It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If ecowool is not available in your region, then you can buy ordinary mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easily and simply placed in the spaces between the frame posts.

To protect mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After that, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Options for steam and thermal insulation of walls of a frame structure, as well as a bathhouse built from blocks or logs, are presented in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple bathhouse with your own hands includes sewerage. It can be made from standard plastic pipes, derived in cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wooden flooring is an excellent option, but in a bathhouse it quickly rots and requires replacement. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and laying them on a concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The design of the bath ceiling is standard. First, a vapor barrier film is “attached” to the rafters and counter-battens (3x4 cm) are stuffed. A clapboard cladding is attached to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with under-roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

A counter-lattice is stuffed onto the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on installing the ceiling and roof is completed by installing the main sheathing and laying the roofing material (slate or metal tiles).

The main “detail” of any country bathhouse is the stove. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. There are many options for stoves for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from steel pipe large diameter, old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Knowing the simplest welding techniques, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.

A simple do-it-yourself bathhouse - options and construction features

Options for simple baths made of various materials, photos of examples and their descriptions. Recommendations for building a simple bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands.