DIY vegetable cellar. How to build a cellar on the street. Aboveground structure

It is difficult to replace a cellar in a country house with a refrigerator: only a special room can accommodate vegetable supplies and dozens of jars of salads, jams and pickles, which were lovingly prepared by zealous housewives. One of the popular options is not to use the basement of a residential building, but to build a cellar with your own hands not far from the house, making original exterior decoration and equipping the interior to your liking.

It is necessary to distinguish between two concepts - cellar and basement. The room that is located in a house under the first floor, that is, below ground level, is usually called a basement. Its area is most often equal to the area of the house, so it can easily accommodate several utility units. There may be storage rooms (including a cellar), a boiler room, a laundry room, and, with thoughtful thermal insulation, an additional room or a swimming pool. A common option is a spacious garage combined with a workshop.

The cellar has a more specific purpose - it serves only for storing food: seasonal garden harvest or canned supplies. The premises are equipped with a large number of convenient shelves, racks, stands, as well as ventilation system and planned thermal insulation, creating the most suitable storage conditions fresh vegetables. For some products there is a glacier (natural freezer). The cellar can be located either in the basement of a residential building or in a separate area, in a dugout or above-ground building. Building a cellar in a country house with your own hands is no more difficult than building a gazebo or a bathhouse.

A detached cellar is an opportunity to decorate your backyard with an original building of the most incredible design, reflecting the style orientation of the entire site

Stonework, unusual shape, heavy doors with iron hinges and bolts - and this is not a simple village cellar, but a fragment of an ancient castle

Self-construction of a semi-buried cellar

The most common type of country cellar is semi-buried. It makes it possible to kill two birds with one stone: decorate the territory with original buildings and create optimal conditions for storing vegetables and fruits.

Design features of this building

The entire structure is divided into two parts of different sizes, one of which is above the ground, the second is completely in the ground. The depth of the lower part largely depends on the groundwater level. If it allows, the depth of the storage reaches 2.3-2.5 m. The height of the upper part depends on the purpose. If this is just a decorative vestibule, then it is small in area and limited in height front door, equal to the height of a person. If the above-ground part plays the role of a summer kitchen, dining room or guest house, then the ceiling height can be 2.5 m.

The desire to build a semi-buried cellar usually arises when the basement of the house is not intended for storing food, and there is also a need to build an additional building, for example, a summer kitchen. Definitely needed detailed plan work and diagram of the future structure. You can use any materials for the walls of the cellar, since its construction is similar to the construction of an ordinary house with basement. As a rule, brick, concrete, stone are used, and wood is excellent for the above-ground part.

An excellent example of a semi-buried country cellar: a small stone vestibule with wooden roof rises above the ground, and the storage is underground

Semi-buried cellar: a – top view; b – in section; 1 – thermal insulation layer; 2 – finishing whitewash; 3 – upper layer- tile; 4 – bitumen coating; 5 – fixation with a clay lock; 6 – base

The floor in the underground part is poured with concrete, sometimes they stop with compacted clay. Wooden beams are ideal for floors. All parts of the structure: walls, floors, ceilings are covered with thermal insulation from available materials, for example, clay grease. The ideal option is to use modern waterproofing: mineral wool, bitumen and polymer coatings.

A convenient hatch connects both tiers, the dimensions of which are determined taking into account the transported containers - bags, boxes, buckets, cans.

The staircase leading to the cellar usually looks like an ordinary stepladder. If the ground room is not additionally heated, the upper part is equipped with a hatch

General rules for building an independent cellar:

Construction is carried out during the warm season.
Elevation is ideal for building a cellar.
A prerequisite is to equip the cellar premises with ventilation.
Wooden parts are additionally treated with an antiseptic.
The entrance door is located on the north side.

Underground part - cellar

First you need to dig a pit, which is half a meter in each direction larger than the cellar. A spare 50 cm will come in handy when you need to waterproof walls or install communications. The walls are made of bricks, concrete blocks or stones. If they go wooden logs or timber, then each part should be treated with a special agent against rot and mold. Often a monolithic concrete structure is made in the form of a plinth: they prepare the formwork, construct a kind of mesh from reinforcement and fill it with concrete mortar. To protect corners and joints, roofing felt is used. After dismantling the formwork, the walls are plastered on both sides cement mortar.

There is a solution to avoid waiting for the concrete to dry for a long time. Instead of a monolithic fill, you can use asbestos cement sheets, recorded on wooden sheathing. The outside of the installed structure should be covered bitumen mastic.

Plaster for waterproofing a wall on the outside differs from the usual: it contains bitumen mass, which is an excellent water-repellent material

A drainage layer serves as protection against groundwater, which can not only increase indoor humidity but also destroy walls. It can communicate with a drainage well dug near the cellar. Gravel, broken bricks, small stones, and crushed stone are used as drainage materials.

If the cellar is built on a slope or in a trench, you must take care of water drainage by digging small grooves higher up the slope

The base of the building is protected with a moisture-proof cushion: a layer of broken brick or crushed stone is poured out, compacted and filled with heated bitumen.

Ventilation installation

To prevent dangerous gases from accumulating in the underground room and excess moisture from condensation appearing, it is necessary to install ventilation - a primitive system consisting of just one pipe. An inexpensive galvanized pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm will do. One end goes into the room where vegetables are stored, the other goes outside. A more advanced solution involves the presence of two pipes: one located under the ceiling is intended for exhaust, the second, above the floor, for fresh air.

Aboveground structure – burial chamber

The above-ground part is constructed last, when the work on equipping the cellar is completely completed, a clay castle and backfill are made. It should be wider than the lower part in order to protect the underground from low temperatures, rain and melting snow from the upper side.

There are several options for building a burial vault - from a miniature vestibule to a spacious room. If its main purpose is to protect the hatch leading underground, then it is enough to make good waterproofing and a tight-fitting door. If you plan to make a full-fledged room suitable for frequent stays, for example, a summer kitchen, then you will have to take the improvement more seriously. Special attention You need to pay attention to the arrangement of the roof, thermal insulation and wall cladding. The final stage The construction of the cellar concerns the interior decoration.

The cellar, located partially or completely underground, naturally maintains the temperature optimal for storing fresh harvests and canned goods.

The interior decoration of the cellar includes not only flooring and wall cladding or plastering, but also the installation of shelving, boxes and boxes for storing crops

Overhead design

There are many ideas for building a burial vault. Sometimes it is difficult to distinguish it from an ordinary gazebo or summer kitchen: not far from the house there is a neat house with windows, and no one will say that underneath there is a spacious basement with a dozen shelves.

Often, to build a cellar, they use not the basement of the house, but a spacious underground room under the summer kitchen - convenient and practical

Many buildings cannot be called anything other than a cellar. Their entire appearance suggests that behind the door are hidden rich food supplies for the winter, and perhaps even wine cellars. Such buildings are distinguished by their original design: deliberately rough stonework, unusual roof configuration, powerful oak doors.

A cellar surrounded on all sides by earth is easiest to build in an area crossed by a small ravine, ditch or artificially dug trench

Earthen cellars with the so-called embankment are the easiest to identify: they are surrounded on all sides by an earthen embankment covered with turf or a flower bed.

Construction of a cellar involves not only the construction of walls and ceilings, but also proper ventilation, high-quality waterproofing and interior layout. If you make the entrance incorrectly or save on usable space, using the cellar will be inconvenient and it will be too difficult to remodel. Therefore, before you build a cellar with your own hands, you should think through everything down to the smallest detail.

A standard cellar is a rectangular room with low ceiling. For entry, a hatch with a movable ladder or concrete steps are installed. The first option is cheaper, but not very convenient, since it is quite difficult to descend into the cellar along the crossbars and even with a load. Concrete or brick steps are much more reliable, and they are not at all difficult to make.

Already at the design stage, you should think about materials for ceilings. The width of the cellar directly depends on this. Some use ready-made concrete slabs as flooring, others pour and reinforce them themselves directly above the cellar, others use multi-layer floors made of timber, layers of waterproofing, boards and insulation.

Basic cellar parameters

The width of the pit should not exceed 4 m, taking into account the thickness of the masonry walls and the outer layer of waterproofing.
The length of the cellar depends on the needs of the owner, usually it is 4 m.
The height of the ceilings should be between 1.8-2 m. With good insulation, there is no need to dig deep; two meters is enough to ensure that the room does not freeze in winter and does not heat up in summer.

To save a little when arranging the stairs, when digging a pit you need to leave a 1 m wide area and remove the earth at a slope, forming steps with a shovel. But this option is only suitable for dense, hard soil, otherwise, under the weight of the brick, the soil will begin to settle and the stairs will collapse.

Another important point– wall cladding. Most often they are made of brick or concrete, pouring mortar between the walls of the pit and the formwork. Both methods are quite within the capabilities of a novice master, the main thing is to think through everything in advance. Brickwork requires brick and mortar to monolithic wall it is necessary to prepare material for formwork and spacers.

Video - Cellar. Theory and drawings

When all the details are thought out, the materials are prepared, you can start working. In the selected area, remove a layer of turf and make markings using pegs, taking into account extra space for waterproofing.

During the work you will need:

bayonet and picking shovel;
roulette;
building level;
crushed stone;
roofing felt;
bitumen mastic;
concrete mortar M 100;
tamper

Step 1. Digging a pit

According to the markings, they begin to dig a hole. At the location of the future staircase, steps are immediately formed, choosing soil at a slope. The steps should be 1.5 times wider than in the project, because the thickness of the riser is added to the tread. If the staircase to the cellar will be mounted separately, the pit is dug evenly around the entire perimeter. When the depth of the pit reaches 2 meters, the walls and base are leveled, lumps of soil are removed and construction of the base begins.

Step 2. Pouring the base

Fine crushed stone is poured into a 3 cm layer at the bottom of the pit, leveled, and the base is compacted using a tamper. Prepare a solution: take 3 parts sand to 4 parts crushed stone and add 1 part M400 cement. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 6 cm.

Step 3: Waterproof the floor

When the concrete dries, mark the walls of the cellar and lay 2 layers of roofing felt on the floor, coating them with bitumen mastic. The edges of the roofing material should extend beyond the perimeter of the marking by 10 cm; strips of material are laid overlapping, shifting the seams of the top layer by several centimeters.

Construction of brick walls

Step 1. Laying the first rows

To lay the walls of a cellar, you do not need to have the skills of a mason. All irregularities and defects in the masonry will be hidden under a layer of plaster. You can take used bricks, as long as they are red fired. White brick and cinder block are not recommended for these purposes.

The first row is laid out according to the markings on a sand-cement mortar. The second row is staggered with ligation of the seams. Excess mortar is immediately removed with a trowel, and every three rows are checked with a building level. A space of about 50 cm wide is left between the masonry and the walls of the pit.

Step 2. Installation of ventilation holes

You can lay out no more than 5 rows at a time, otherwise the solution will not withstand the load and the walls will “float”. It takes 8-10 hours to harden the masonry. In the 3rd or 4th row from the floor, a hole is made between the bricks for the ventilation pipe. The second hole should be left in the opposite corner of the cellar at a height of 1.6-1.7 m from the floor. The dimensions of the ventilation holes depend on the diameter of the pipe; usually these are square niches 25x25 cm.

Step 3. Installation of mortgages for fastening shelves

To attach the shelves, they are built into the masonry. metal corners or profile pipes with thick walls. They should extend beyond the outer wall by about 10-15 cm, and on the inside correspond to the width of the shelves. The distance between the corners is about 70 cm horizontally and about the same vertically. This method is quite convenient and reliable, and also saves money on the manufacture of individual racks.

Step 4. External waterproofing

When the walls are completely laid out, ventilation pipes are inserted and secured into the holes, brought to the top and temporarily fixed with wire to the top row. The outside walls are coated with liquid bitumen and roofing felt is fixed. It is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, the joints are covered with bitumen and pressed firmly. After this, the space between the walls of the pit and the masonry is filled with clay and compacted every half meter, not reaching the top by about 40 cm.

Concrete walls

Metal rods are driven into the walls of the pit along the entire perimeter, leaving 15 cm on the outside. Shields are knocked down from boards, chipboard or plywood to the size of the walls, covered with polyethylene and installed flush against the reinforcement. Strengthen the formwork wooden beam and pour the concrete solution. It is advisable to fill the entire wall at once, then the surface will be the most durable. After a day, the formwork is removed and the wall is allowed to dry thoroughly.

Floor installation

If used for floors reinforced concrete slabs, the installation method is quite simple. The trench along the perimeter of the cellar is filled with stone, reinforced with a lattice of rods and filled with concrete. The slabs are laid after the concrete has hardened; they must completely cover the pit and foundation around the cellar. The joints between the slabs are sealed with a thick mortar.

If there are no slabs, you can do monolithic ceiling differently, using beams, steel channels, beams or pipes.

Step 1. Laying beams

In the last two rows of masonry, on opposite walls, holes are left for floor beams, the length of which should be 1 m greater than the width of the cellar. Wooden beams with a cross section of 150x150 mm are impregnated with waste machine oil and dry. Then they are wrapped in roofing felt, which is secured with staplers.

Pipes or channels do not need such treatment. The prepared beams are laid on the walls, leaving an opening for the entrance, and then the trench and the edges of the beams are poured with concrete. The protruding edges of the ventilation pipes are covered to prevent the solution from getting inside.

Step 2. Overlap device

The bottom of the beams is sheathed with boards 25 mm thick, and the top is covered with roofing felt. Expanded clay is poured between the beams or 2-3 layers of mineral wool are laid, covering everything plastic film, then again with roofing felt, coat the joints with mastic. Soil or clay is poured on top.

If the beams are metal, you can attach a chain-link mesh with small cells between them, lay reinforcement and metal scraps on it, and install a removable board made of plywood or chipboard covered with film underneath. The shield is supported by a 100x100 mm beam in several places so that the structure can withstand the weight concrete mortar. They fill everything with concrete and let it sit for several days, then remove the shield, remove the excess mortar that has leaked around the edges, and let the slab stand well.

Video - Building a cellar yourself

Interior work

The next stage is installing the stairs. If a base of soil was left, a brick is laid on top, placing it on the edge vertically and flat on the tread. Side walls They are also faced with brick, all gaps and joints are rubbed with mortar. You can replace the brick with a reinforcement frame and pour the steps out of concrete; you can also install a light metal staircase.

Next, the walls, floor and ceiling are tidied up. If the wall masonry is smooth and neat, it is enough to cover the surface with two layers of lime. Uneven masonry is pre-plastered with cement-sand mortar and then treated with lime. No additional wall covering is required, although various finishes are possible. The ceiling is checked for the absence of cracks and gaps, if necessary, the joints along the walls are sealed and also whitewashed.

On the floor, roofing felt is covered with a cement screed 3-4 cm thick. In some cases, plank floors are installed on top of the screed or covered with linoleum, but this is completely optional. Finally, shelves are attached or racks made of boards treated with an antiseptic are installed. The shelving should accommodate everything you need so that nothing stands on the floor. This will ensure good preservation of vegetables and make cleaning the room easier. Do not block the space in front of you with racks and drawers. ventilation holes, otherwise air exchange will be disrupted and condensation will appear in the cellar.

The door to the cellar is made of durable boards 3 cm thick and is additionally insulated from the inside. In cold regions where frosts reach 30 degrees, it is recommended to install another door at the bottom of the stairs. The top floors must also be carefully insulated with a layer of soil, sawdust, clay and other available materials. Ventilation pipes should be covered with special caps with a protective insect net.

Video - How to build a cellar with your own hands

Cellar – important element any suburban area, it is indispensable for storing vegetables, fruits and canning. The article contains information on how to build a cellar at your dacha with your own hands: a step-by-step description will help you take into account a lot of nuances, starting from the right choice places and ending with the installation of waterproofing and. The external arrangement of the building is also of great importance, and the construction of shelving and drawers will help to effectively use the space.

Do not confuse the cellar and the basement. Building a cellar at your dacha with your own hands can come down to simply digging a hole and minimally arranging it. The choice of the type of structure depends on many parameters, for example, on its intended purpose, on the climatic conditions of the region, financial capabilities, etc. Also, when choosing the type and materials for building a cellar in a country house with your own hands, you need to take into account its location.

It is easier to build a separate building than, for example, to build a cellar under the house, but this option will require more materials, and therefore finances. Make storage for residential building or an outbuilding will be cheaper, but this option is limited in space.

One of the most popular options is an ice cellar. It copes well with the function of long-term storage of food even in the hot season and is especially in demand in the southern regions. It is quite difficult and expensive to build this type of cellar in a private house with your own hands, but the result is characterized by high performance characteristics, durability and reliability.

Another good option for this building is a storage unit with two sections. As a rule, this type is used when it is necessary to avoid mixing the odors of various vegetables and fruits that are simultaneously stored in the cellar. To build such a storage facility, you need less materials than for a glacier.

A separate type of cellar is a wine cellar. It is used for storing wine products; it has its own design features and nuances that must be taken into account in order to implement correct construction cellar As a rule, in such storage you can store not only wine, but also various preserves.

The nuances of arranging a cellar with your own hands at a high groundwater level

When choosing a location for storage, it is very important to take into account factors such as total soil moisture and groundwater level. The lower it is, the easier it will be to build the structure, and the less often repairs will be needed. If we're talking about about a free-standing structure, then you should choose the highest place on your site. It is best to determine the groundwater level when it is at its maximum, that is, in spring or autumn. If there is a well or borehole on the site, then you can determine the maximum elevation using them, otherwise you will have to drill a well separately.

It will be somewhat more difficult to build a cellar if it is close groundwater. How to do this as efficiently as possible? First of all, it is necessary to pay great attention to the waterproofing of the structure. Also, with increased soil moisture, for better waterproofing of the cellar from groundwater, it is worth using building materials characterized by increased resistance to water. In this case, you should not use wood or plywood, but rather give preference to concrete and brick.

Helpful advice! You can check the groundwater level by folk signs. To do this, you need to leave a piece of wool and a chicken egg at the construction site, and cover them with a clay pot on top. If in the morning there is dew on both the wool and the egg, then groundwater is close, but if there is only dew on the wool, it is far away.

Recommendations for building a cellar with your own hands: how to do it as efficiently as possible

Regardless of what type of construction you have chosen or what materials you are going to use, there are a number of general recommendations that you should follow when building a cellar step by step with your own hands:

if you are going to use wooden elements, then they must be pre-treated with a special impregnation to protect them from the harmful effects of moisture;
It is best to start building a cellar in the summer, when the groundwater level is at the lower level. In this case, the soil will be the driest, and the risk of flooding of the structure will be minimal;
To ensure efficient storage of products, it is very important to consider a ventilation system;
if you want the structure to support desired temperature, then it is recommended when building a cellar with your own hands to make two doors separated by a vestibule;

special attention should also be paid to thermal insulation, then the optimal temperature in the cellar will be ensured at any time of the year;
The choice of tools and materials for construction is very important, so you should familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages in advance various types. The construction itself must be carried out in a clearly recommended order.

Features of using various materials

Most often, materials such as brick or concrete blocks are used in construction. They tolerate it best high humidity and low temperatures, and are also characterized by durability, reliability and relatively low cost. When building a brick cellar with your own hands, you should take into account the features performance characteristics each type of this material:

cinder block or foam brick is characterized by increased fragility, so these varieties are not recommended for use in the construction of underground storage;
sand-lime brick is more durable, but reacts very poorly to high humidity. This means that a building made from it cannot boast of a long service life;

red brick is an ideal option for a cellar in a private house. How to make a building from this material as efficient as possible can be learned from numerous step-by-step instructions from specialists.

If you decide to use concrete blocks in construction, then you will definitely need specialized construction equipment, since they are characterized by heavy weight. A cellar made from them will last a long time and maintain the temperature well.

Also, when building a cellar in a house with your own hands, you can use bricks that have already been used, if its condition allows it. And if you are simply going to line an earthen pit with wooden boards, they must be thoroughly treated with antiseptics to prevent rotting.

Note! The use of metal-reinforced concrete slabs is also possible. But in this case it will be quite difficult to maintain the desired temperature, so this material should not be used for a building in which you are going to store food.

Do-it-yourself cellar at the dacha: step-by-step construction guide

Strict adherence to the sequence of actions is the key to a proper cellar. How to make the construction as efficient as possible, spending a minimum of time and effort on it? For this installation work must be done in a certain order.

Arrangement of the pit

The turf is removed from the selected area, after which the ground is leveled and markings are made. Many photos of a do-it-yourself cellar show that specialized construction equipment is often used to build a pit, but if this is not possible, then you can use shovels and spades. Job advantage hand tools is that this allows you to preserve the structure of the soil. If the soil in the selected area is loose, then the walls of the pit should be sloped to avoid crumbling.

The dimensions of the cellar depend solely on your needs, but remember that the size of the pit should be 0.5 m larger than the size of the structure itself. In the process of building a cellar with your own hands, the excavated fertile soil can be distributed throughout the summer cottage. After finishing the work, the evenness of the bottom should be measured with a level and corrected if necessary.

Construction of the foundation

Although you can do without this stage (by simply filling the bottom of the pit with crushed stone or filling it with bitumen), the arrangement of the foundation will increase the level of waterproofing of the cellar from groundwater. How to make the foundation as efficient as possible, but not too expensive? To do this, you can use a reinforcing frame, on top of which you pour concrete mixture. The recommended foundation height is about 40 cm. Installation of the foundation is a prerequisite when building a cellar in a country house with your own hands if groundwater is close. Thematic videos on the Internet will tell you how to make the foundation correctly.

Walling

If you use bricks to build a cellar under your house with your own hands, then you will need a number specialized tools. These include a trowel, mortar line, mason's hammer, mortar level and mortar bucket. For greater work efficiency, you should use the help of another person.

A mixture of clay and sand or cement can be used as a mortar connecting the bricks. When building an underground or above-ground cellar with your own hands, laying should begin from the corners, and the first row should be laid without using mortar in order to more accurately plan the position of the wall. The bricks of the next rows must be sunk into the mortar until the seam thickness is approximately 12 mm.

Helpful advice! Be sure to use a building level and plumb line when laying walls. Using the first, you check how evenly the brick is laid, and using the second, the correctness of the angles.

DIY cellar floor installation

When constructing a ceiling, it is best to use wooden boards. If the structure is being built under a house, then beams can be used as a ceiling, and the ceiling of a ground cellar in a country house is made step by step from PKZh slabs or slate. In this case, the surface can be flat or gable.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is done according to the same principle as the thermal insulation of a conventional roof - the gap between wooden beams and roofing material is filled with a layer of thermal insulation.

Types and features of floor installation in the cellar

There are many different options for arranging a floor in a cellar; which one is better depends on your preferences, the purpose of the building, the characteristics of the soil and other factors. You should also familiarize yourself with the specifics of each method in advance; this will help you quickly and efficiently build a cellar with your own hands. Both video and photo instructions can greatly facilitate the installation process.

Dirt floor- the simplest and cheapest option. There is a misconception that the correct floor in the cellar should only be earthen, but this is not so. Even well-compacted soil will not protect the room from dampness and mold.

If you nevertheless decide to make a dirt floor in the cellar, then the base must be carefully leveled and compacted, after which a layer of gravel about 10 cm thick is poured. The advantage of this option is zero installation cost, but there are many more disadvantages. These include a high risk of flooding of the premises and a high probability that metal elements will rust, and wooden ones will rot.

Concrete floor– a good option to protect the room from high groundwater. Concrete screed can act not only as a floor covering, but also as a base for the installation of other materials.

To build a concrete floor, it is very important to level the surface, after which a cushion of crushed stone and sand 15-20 cm thick is installed. The sand must be thoroughly moistened and compacted, and bitumen must be poured on top. In order for the concrete base to be as strong as possible, a metal grate can be installed on top of the bitumen layer. After this, you can begin pouring concrete.

You can install the waterproofing layer either on a sand cushion or on top of concrete. In the second case, it is necessary to pour another concrete layer on top.

Clay floor- a reliable, but very labor-intensive option in terms of installation. Requires a large amount of high-quality material, so it is used quite rarely. Clay is considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. It is laid on a base of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick, which can be impregnated with bitumen. Under the clay, it is worth installing a layer of waterproofing made of roofing felt or other material, and cracks that may form after drying are sealed with a clay-lime mixture.

Brick covering– strong, durable and attractive in appearance. In addition, the material is quite cheap and easy to install. The brick floor is laid on a bed of fine crushed stone or gravel, and a clay mortar is poured on top. The bricks are slightly sunk into the mortar close to each other. You can also hammer cement mortar into the seams between the bricks using a stiff brush.

Wooden floor– used in above-ground cellars or where groundwater is very deep. Before installation, wood must be treated with special impregnations to extend its service life. Wooden boards are mounted on top of timber logs, which, in turn, are laid on a base of crushed stone and clay. It is best to fasten the boards using self-tapping screws, but you can simply nail them.

Note! For each of the materials you will need a separate set of tools, which it is better to purchase in advance.

Design and installation of a ventilation system

If you are building a ground-based structure, then the flow of air into the cellar can occur naturally through small openings. For underground structures, ventilation must be supply and exhaust. The outlet of the exhaust pipe should be located near the ceiling, and the suction pipe should be located near the floor. Many do-it-yourself photos of a cellar in a country house show that the ventilation outlets are equipped with special curtains, this allows you to more accurately control the temperature in the room.

Installation of stairs and doors

If the cellar is being built under the house or if you need to save space, you should make an almost vertical staircase to the cellar with your own hands. How to make it as safe as possible for descent? It is recommended to use handrails. Photos of a do-it-yourself cellar staircase show that it can be built from wooden planks fixed directly into the ground, as well as from brick or other materials.

Doors are mounted in ground-based design options; in other cases, a hatch is used. Making a cellar hatch with your own hands is quite simple.

Making a hatch

If the cellar is located under a house or outbuilding, then a hatch is used as an entrance partition. You can buy a cellar hatch, or you can make it yourself. The second option will allow you to get a design that exactly suits your needs. Self-installation includes the following steps:

a location for the future entrance is selected. It is very important that access to it is as simple as possible and not cluttered with shelves, drawers and other objects;
The dimensions of the hatch are determined. It all depends on your needs, but its parameters should not be less than 75x75 cm. In order for the room to be airtight, side faces the hatch must be covered with a sealant;
a cellar hatch cover is being made. How to make it light and durable? For this, it is best to use wooden boards impregnated with drying oil. They are connected to each other with slats, and a sheet of plywood is nailed to one side of the lid. If we are talking about a cellar in a residential building, then the top of the hatch cover can be sheathed with the same floor covering, as the floor around her. It is worth considering that if you plan to install a cellar hatch under tiles, its design must be made of sufficiently durable materials that can withstand all the ceramics. If you prefer to use steel, then for the lid you will need a sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, which is welded onto a metal frame;

a handle is attached. The best option would be a special hidden or folding design. If the cellar is located in a non-residential premises or there is a need to save money, then you can use a regular door handle;
the hinges are screwed on. It could be ordinary door hinges or automobile ones with springs. The latter option will make it easier to open the lid and fix it in any position.

There are many answers to the question of how to make a cellar hatch with your own hands, so you should choose the option that is most suitable in your particular case.

Wiring and lighting

Due to the fact that the design of the cellar provides for high humidity, the wiring in it must be reliably insulated. The best option for wiring is copper wires with a double layer of insulation. Light bulbs should be placed in the driest places and additionally equipped with protective caps. It is strictly forbidden to make sockets when building a cellar. How to properly make wiring as safe as possible can be seen in training videos from specialists.

Installation of waterproofing in the cellar

As already mentioned, insulation from moisture is a very important point when building a cellar in a country house with your own hands. How to make waterproofing most effective - there are many options, and the choice of the optimal one depends on the level of soil moisture and design features the buildings.

Waterproofing can be external or internal. The external one is done during the construction stage, while the external walls are sheathed with insulating materials, and gutters, drainage wells and other structures are installed. Internal insulation is done after the cellar is built. In this case, before using insulating materials, groundwater must be drained, otherwise the work will be ineffective.

Types of materials used for internal waterproofing

If you made a cellar in your country house with your own hands from waterproof concrete, then you are unlikely to need additional cladding insulating material. But for a brick structure you can use the following waterproofing options:

mastic or bitumen - used in cases where the groundwater level is below floor level. The solution is heated and thin layer applied to walls, resulting in the formation of a reliable waterproof film;

– the most expensive, but also the most effective option. It is good because it increases not only the level of resistance of walls to moisture, but also their frost resistance. Also, penetrating waterproofing reliably seals all cracks and micropores, is characterized by a long service life and is quickly installed;
Cement-based polymer mortar is one of the most reliable and easy-to-apply waterproofing materials. It fits tightly to the walls and reliably protects them from mechanical damage;
membrane-type moisture insulation - consists of various polymers, among which liquid rubber based on bitumen is very popular.

Note! It is very important to have effective ventilation for reliable waterproofing of a cellar in a country house with your own hands. How to build a ventilation system so that excess moisture does not condense in the storage? The installation of a supply and exhaust system is best suited for this.

Procedure for installing waterproofing

Numerous photos of a cellar in a private house show that waterproofing can be hidden under decorative wall panels. This is not a prerequisite, but only affects the appearance of the walls. The nuances of installing a waterproofing layer depend on the type of material chosen.

Waterproofing using bitumen or mastic for the walls of a cellar under a house, as a rule, is not easy to do with your own hands. special labor. To do this, the walls must first be plastered, and the waterproofing itself is best applied in two layers. Before the coating dries completely, it is recommended to sprinkle it with fine dry sand.

Before installing penetrating moisture insulation, the surface of the walls must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and then moistened with water. After applying the insulation layer for several days, it also needs to be constantly moistened. Before installing penetrating waterproofing, concrete walls are treated with a wire brush.

To apply liquid rubber, the walls must be leveled and cleaned. After this, the surface is primed and a waterproofing material is applied to it using a brush, spatula or roller. Decoration Materials can be mounted directly on a layer of liquid rubber after it has dried. Photos of wine cellars, for example, show that the walls are lined with wood panels.

The cement-polymer mixture is applied to well-moistened walls using a notched trowel or brush. It is best to do this in several layers.

DIY installation of shelves in the cellar: photos and instructions

Shelves and racks are integral elements of any cellar and basement. There are several types of cellar racks, which can be bought in specialized stores, but it is much easier and more economical to make them yourself. The most popular options are the following:

Wooden shelving is one of the most common answers to the question of what to make a shelf from in the cellar. The material is environmentally friendly and easy to use, and for shelving it is best to use timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm and boards 3-4 cm thick. The installation scheme is very simple - racks are made from timber, in which sockets are cut to secure the shelves. To make wooden shelves last longer, they are impregnated special compounds;

Concrete shelving is a good option if you want to know how to make your cellar shelves as durable and moisture-resistant as possible. To create concrete shelves, you can use reinforced concrete slabs or niches in the walls that are filled with concrete screed;
shelves made of steel angle – used in rooms with low humidity levels, otherwise the structures can very quickly begin to rust. In order to make a shelf in the cellar for cans, as a rule, it is used welding machine, but you can get by with simple self-tapping screws. First, frames are made from metal slats, then shelves are attached to them;
plastic shelving is one of the most economical and simple options, which is distinguished by its attractive appearance and resistance to moisture. However, plastic does not tolerate well low temperature, therefore cannot boast of durability.

Helpful advice! When wondering how to make a shelf in the cellar with your own hands, and what material to choose for this, consider the level of humidity in the room, as well as the average weight of the cans and boxes that will be stored on the racks. Concrete can easily withstand even very heavy loads, but plastic cannot boast of this.

From the same materials you can make boxes for potatoes in the cellar. As a rule, they are equipped with removable covers, which are installed if necessary. Regardless of what material you choose, in the warm season it is recommended to take shelves and drawers outside to dry. This will prevent the occurrence of mold and the proliferation of pathogens.

When construction and interior design the cellar will be completed, you can think about exterior decoration ground structure. Its option depends solely on your preferences - you can simply pour an earthen hill, or you can decorate it with turf or ornamental grass, turning it into an element landscape design. During the process of building a cellar with your own hands, use video and photo instructions that will help you take into account all the nuances and arrange a practical and functional room.

The basement under the house is not the best the best place for long-term storage of workpieces. The temperature there is elevated, and closer to spring the vegetables in it will become flabby. Therefore, sooner or later, novice homeowners have a reasonable question: “How to make a free-standing cellar with your own hands?”

Types of cellars

In essence, a cellar is a fairly deep hole in the ground with a reinforced ceiling and walls.

The depth of such storage can be different:

deep-seated: are completely underground to the entire height of the cellar; maintaining a comfortable temperature for vegetables and preservation at any time in such rooms is not difficult - a layer of soil reliably protects them from heat and cold;
top (ground) cellars: they can be erected on any type of site, but most often such structures are used when groundwater is close to each other, when it is not possible to deepen the cellar too much; to protect such structures from heat and cold, they are thermally insulated by backfilling with soil (embankment);
semi-recessed: something between high and deep storage; its lower part is buried in the soil, and its upper part is located above the ground.

When choosing the type of cellar, you need to focus on the depth of groundwater. They should not rise higher than 50-60 cm from the bottom of the cellar.

It is not easy to determine the groundwater level on your own, without the help of specialists. You can navigate to neighboring areas. Go around your neighbors and ask them what types of cellars are used in this area. More accurate measurements can be made by drilling test wells. Before measuring the water level, the finished well should stand for 1-2 days.

Based on their location, all underground storage facilities can be divided into 2 types:

1 Freestanding

2 Wall mounted: in order to save free space, it is allowed to attach the cellar to the walls of sheds, garages and other outbuildings; Cellars can also be located inside such premises; but in order to avoid excessive heating of the air, it is not recommended to attach the cellar to heated rooms.

Selecting a location

The safety of products and the durability of the structure itself largely depend on the location chosen for construction.

You should not build a cellar on:

on open area, illuminated by the sun - it is better to choose a place in the shade
near large trees that can damage the structure with their roots

The highest possible location for the building is selected. In this case, the likelihood of flooding by groundwater when it rises in the spring is reduced. Plus, rainwater or melt water will not accumulate on such a site.

The vegetable storage facility is located on an elevated area

To avoid the collapse of buildings, the cellar pit should be located no closer than 0.5 m from the foundation of the buildings.

When building a vegetable storage facility under an unheated room, you will not only save space on the site, but also ensure ease of use - you will no longer have to clear snow every time you go for food supplies.

The walls and roof of the building will create additional protection from cold winds and scorching heat.

When constructing an above-ground cellar, the exit is located with shadow side. If this is not possible, you will need more thorough thermal insulation of the vestibule and the entrance door.

Construction of a deep cellar

The construction of any type of underground storage facility should not be carried out in the spring, when groundwater rises too close to the surface, but towards the end of summer, in August. All work must be carried out in dry weather. When it rains, the pit must be covered with film.

1 After choosing the storage location, they begin digging a pit. The depth of a full cellar should be 2-2.5 m.

2 When preparing the pit, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the floor, as well as the height of the bedding (cushion) of crushed stone, which serves as protection from moisture. The thickness of this layer is 25-30 cm.

3 The optimal size of vegetable storage is 8-12 square meters. m. For small family 4-5 sq. is enough. m. 0.5-1 m is added to the estimated length and width for equipping walls, waterproofing and arranging a clay castle.

4 Digging a pit is done manually - an excavator can damage the edges of the pit, and the thermal insulation of the storage facility will be damaged. The earth is removed in layers, carefully leveling the edges.

5 In case of loose soil, it is better to make a hole with a slope (between the floor and the top, the difference in each direction should be 30-50 cm). In this case, the earth will crumble less.

6 In the corners it is better to immediately hammer in supports from the channel. Floor beams will be laid on it in the future.

7 Part of the earth will be needed to fill the top of the cellar, so do not carry the soil too far.

8 After reaching the required depth, the pit must stand for some time - you need to make sure that it will not fill with groundwater. If water has slightly seeped into the hole, the points of its penetration are sealed with clay. In case of severe flooding, further construction, unfortunately, will be impossible.

There is no point in hoping that water from a flooded cellar can be pumped out every spring. You will only wash out the channels, constantly expanding them, and every year more and more water will arrive. If the dug pit begins to flood, it is better to cover it with earth and build an above-ground cellar.

Preparing a clay castle

The best floors in the cellar are adobe. Our ancestors knew about the ability of clay to retain moisture and not let it into the room.

To this day, the clay castle is one of best options foundation protection even during construction residential buildings. By the way, leaks in the basements of buildings erected back in the 18th-19th centuries arise only after the construction of new ones. modern communications and destruction of adobe surfaces.

A clay castle is a layer of clay 20-25 cm thick, laid along the contour of the building, covering the perimeter of the walls. The ideal option would be a combination of modern and traditional protection methods.

First, rolled bitumen material (for example, roofing felt) glued with heated bitumen is laid on the floors, they are filled with cement, and a clay castle is built on top.

The clay must first be soaked in sufficient water for several days. If there is an excess of sand, 10-20% lime is added to it. It is better to compact the clay in the formwork, filling it in small layers. To compact it, it is trampled with feet, turning it over with a shovel from time to time.

If a natural layer of clay is found at the bottom of a hole prepared for a cellar, it must be dug up with a shovel, including an area slightly wider than the intended walls. Then the floors are thoroughly crushed with feet, dug up again with a shovel and trampled down.

The walls are also insulated with a clay lock. To do this, the space between a brick or concrete wall is filled with carefully compacted clay. The thickness of such a lock is from 25 cm. It is more convenient to fill the space with clay as the walls are built.

It is compacted using a piece of log or a special tamper in the form of a flat, heavy base and a handle attached to it.

An ordinary sand bedding (pillow) that absorbs water well, with adobe floors undesirable. It is better to replace it with a layer of crushed stone, spilled with bitumen, which is covered with compacted clay on top.

Ventilation

Regardless of the type of cellar, ventilation must be provided in it. Indeed, in addition to the moisture coming through the capillaries from the soil, vegetables and fruits stored indoors will also release water during respiration.

There are two ventilation ducts in the cellar. The first exhaust is located above the ceiling with an outlet to the outside to a height of 10-15 cm (see photo). The end of the pipe located outdoors should rise 0.5 m above the ground.

When above the cellar outbuilding(garage, barn, etc.) the exhaust duct is led to the roof of the building above the ridge. The pipe should rise 0.5 m above it.

The second supply channel, which serves to supply fresh air, is installed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the floor. The supply and exhaust pipes are mounted only on opposite walls. Their minimum length is 2.5-3 m. To circulate air masses was uniform, the diameter of the channels should be the same.

They are laid already during the construction of walls. To do this, special holes are provided in the masonry or concrete into which pipes are inserted. The channels are equipped with canopies on top that protect against precipitation and the penetration of rodents.

Too large, as well as a small diameter, is undesirable. In the first case, the room will be too cold, in the second, the small size of the channel will not provide sufficient air exchange. Ideally, the pipes should not have any bends. Any expansion or contraction is unacceptable.

The size of the pipes is calculated depending on the dimensions of the room. For every 1 m2 of a standard 2-meter depth cellar, 26 cm2 of channel cross-section should be provided. If the storage depth is large, the diameter of the pipes is increased proportionally.

To prevent water vapor escaping from freezing, the channels are insulated at the exit points with soil. You can put on a casing lined with heat-insulating material on the outside.

In large vegetable storehouses it is arranged forced ventilation. In the simplest systems, a low-power electric fan is installed in the hood for this purpose. In more complex versions, it is installed in both the supply and exhaust ducts.

In winter, the inlet openings must be carefully plugged with cloth.

Wall decoration

The most popular materials for their finishing are concrete, brick or concrete blocks. To pour concrete, formwork is prepared into which a reinforcement cage is built. All concrete works must be carried out within one day.

Otherwise, cold bridges will form at the joints, through which heat will escape. Such joints are dangerous and due to an excess of surface tension, the wall will turn out to be fragile.

During construction brick walls the masonry is laid in one brick. The solution used is clay-sand or cement mixture. The outside walls are waterproofed with a double layer of bitumen and roofing felt. The remaining space between the soil and the wall is filled with earth and compacted.

The walls can be finished with asbestos-cement slabs. It is not advisable to use wood. Its service life is damp room will be small. If there is a need for this, you can use the method that was used by our ancestors. Pegs are driven into the corners of the walls, into which boards or slabs, cut to length and dried for 1-2 years, are laid.

Cellar cover

To make the floor, you can use concrete, wood, or a combination of both. Fixing a plank ceiling and laying insulation in the gap between wooden beams is much more convenient and simpler.

In this case:

1 Roofing felt is laid on top of the walls.

2 Then, at a distance of 0.5 m from each other, logs or beams from 150x100 mm timber, pre-treated with an antiseptic, are laid.

4 The wooden flooring is covered with a layer of waterproofing. You can use thick polyethylene as it. The film is spread so that it lies on the ground.

5 Now we lay the reinforcement in the form of a lattice, prepare the formwork and fill it with concrete 4-5 cm thick.

6 After the concrete has completely dried (you must wait at least a week), a double insulated, tightly fitted lid is attached to the hatch. Brick is laid around its perimeter or concrete is poured.

7 When using concrete slabs as floors, they are laid on metal beams. The seams between the slabs are sealed with cement mortar; then this overlap is filled with bitumen. Roofing felt is spread on top of it, and then a layer of insulation.

8 It is not advisable to use mineral wool as insulation - in a damp room, over time it will clump into clumps and completely lose its thermal insulation properties. The best option is polystyrene foam. The joints between its sheets are sealed with sealant or adhesive tape.

9 If underground storage built separately, for protection from the sun in summer and snow in winter time It is better to provide a small building with a gable roof (cellar) above the cellar. Its door is installed on the north side. Such a room can be used as a place to store gardening equipment.

For reliable heat protection, the walls of the cellar are buried 60-70 cm into the ground, and a blind area of clay and crushed stone is made on the outside.

Ceiling insulation

To ensure optimal temperature in the room, the ceiling must be thermally insulated.

To do this, a lattice structure (lathing) made of timber is attached to the beams, between which foam plastic or any other material is laid thermal insulation material, does not absorb moisture.

To secure it, it is sheathed with boards or fiberboard, which are screwed to the beams.

1 The earthen backfill (embankment) must reliably retain cold in summer and heat in winter. Its optimal thickness is 35-45 cm.

2 Before bunding, the ceiling is covered with a 5-centimeter layer of clay-straw mixture. A thick film of polyethylene or roofing felt is laid on top of it.

3 The ground, especially at the top of the floor, may settle over time. To avoid the need for additional embankment, it is necessary to provide a special fence to protect against soil sliding along the slopes.

4 To strengthen the embankment, it must be immediately covered with turf or sown with low-growing grass, for example, lawn grass. The intertwined roots of the plants will prevent the soil from sliding down.

Like any other building, a horse cellar can be made visually attractive by decorating it to your liking. The design of the site will only benefit from this.

The main stages of building a cellar without embanking walls

Horse cellars with full embankment take up too much space on the site. In recent years, land owners have found another solution. Instead of embankment, they began to build cellars with double walls.

Outwardly, they look like ordinary buildings. However, due to the massive walls lined with insulation, such a storage shed maintains a comfortable temperature for vegetables.

Only one- or gable roof such a vegetable storage. The thickness of the layer of backfilled soil is up to half a meter. Just as in the previous case, a vestibule is provided in such a storage shed.

The door leading to the storage room is carefully insulated.

A cellar is a room that is simply necessary in a summer cottage, especially if you have to store a lot of food and even equipment here. How to build a cellar at the dacha with your own hands step by step? First you need to understand how a cellar and a basement differ, then think through the drawings of the future room and choose materials. After these issues are resolved, construction can begin.

Cellar or basement?

Typically, a basement is a room located below the first floor. That is, it is located below ground level, has the dimensions of a house, so it is possible to locate utility rooms in it, which may include a pantry, boiler room, laundry room and even a swimming pool, if you think through the thermal insulation system.

Having decided to build a cellar at your dacha with your own hands step by step, remember that you can only store food in it - from autumn harvest to canned food. This room has a large number of convenient shelves and racks, is equipped with a ventilation system, and has planned thermal insulation, which ensures optimal storage of products. The cellar can be located either in the basement of the house or next to it, in a separate area.

Features of construction

It’s enough to just build a cellar in your country house with your own hands—thoughtful drawings will help you with this step by step. Most often, a noticeable hill on the site is chosen for construction. This is required in order to avoid the impact of groundwater on the contents of the cellar. When you find such a point, you can begin to draw up a project, which will indicate the dimensions and depth of the room, and also calculate the estimate. When you build a cellar at your dacha with your own hands, the drawings play an important role - they will help you complete the work correctly.

What do the experts say?

There are several rules to follow when building a cellar:

Construction should be done in the summer.
Construction must be carried out using high-quality materials.
Walls and anti-talus structures must be erected correctly.
Without high-quality ventilation this building is indispensable.
It is necessary to build exclusively on a hill - this applies to those who do not know how to make a cellar in the country with their own hands if groundwater is close.

Waterproofing - pay close attention!

When building a cellar, its waterproofing plays an important role, which, with high-quality installation, will increase the service life of the room. Materials for waterproofing should be selected depending on the level of groundwater. If they are lower, then non-pressure waterproofing will be required; if higher, anti-pressure waterproofing will be required. To build a cellar at your dacha with your own hands step by step and without problems, you need to carefully consider the choice of materials.

Since the main pressure will be on the walls, they need to be built from concrete with high waterproof properties. If the construction is carried out from brick, then it will have to be treated with special compounds, then high-quality cement screed on both sides, and at the end of the work, finish the walls using protective materials, for example, roofing felt.

Construction algorithm: digging a pit

How to make a cellar at the dacha with your own hands step by step? First, we need to dig a pit, and this is done clearly in accordance with the plan or finished project. There should be approximately one and a half meters left on each side of the cellar - they are necessary for the convenience of construction work. And it is best to dig by hand - this way the integrity of the soil layer will be preserved.

If the soil on the site is loose, you should dig a pit with a slight slope - this will reduce the amount of crumbling sand. At high level groundwater, the pit is made wider and deeper by about 50 cm, and this space must be filled waterproofing material. At the base of the cellar you need to lay a cushion of crushed stone and broken bricks, and then fill them with bitumen: this will provide reliable protection from moisture.

Stage two: building walls

High-quality materials are the main requirement if you decide to build a cellar in your country house with your own hands. The photo shows that any materials can be used for construction - from brick to concrete slabs. Experts advise to proceed from the following rules:

the most reliable walls for a cellar are made of brick, foam blocks or concrete slabs;
the floor is equipped with the addition of reinforcement, and sand and gravel are used for the “cushion”;
floors are made from ready-made concrete slabs or boards for formwork, as well as from reinforcement, which is needed to strengthen the structure;
external waterproofing can be made of roofing felt, which is secured with mastic.

Follow the instructions

Here's how to build a cellar at the dacha with your own hands ( step-by-step instruction):

The cellar must be dry, so before pouring the floor with concrete, you should consider its high-quality waterproofing. The bottom of the pit is covered with a cushion of sand and gravel and thoroughly compacted. Crushed stone is poured on top and compacted as well. It would be good to make formwork around the entire perimeter of the pit, pour concrete into it and level it. After the concrete has hardened, remove the formwork. The sides of the cellar can be coated with tar - it will protect the walls from moisture. By the way, if the groundwater is deep, then the floor can be left earthen.
Now we are constructing the walls. When using brick, masonry can be done either with cement mortar or a mixture of clay and sand. An important role in the construction of walls is played by the arrangement of waterproofing, if it will be used as a layer between earthen walls and masonry.
You can lay roofing felt in one layer between the wall and the backfill - it will become reliable protection from moisture.
After a couple of rows of masonry have been completed, you need to leave it so that it will go up. It should be covered with a grill on top to prevent rodents from getting inside.
The walls are erected to the very top of the dug pit, and their horizontal and vertical positions must be leveled.

Creating floors

Floor installation is one of the key points when building a cellar at the dacha with your own hands. A photo of this stage of work shows that the ceilings can be mounted in different ways. The easiest way is to lay concrete slabs on top of the cellar, which will rest on the ground along the entire perimeter. That is why many people prefer a simpler option - the use of combined floors, which are easy to install and process. With this option, the following work is performed:

First, roofing material is carefully laid on the walls and the soil itself, on which bars are placed on top. They are needed as floor beams.
It is nailed onto the beam bars in which you must remember to leave a hatch.
We lay it on top of the flooring and it should extend beyond the ground.
We lay a reinforcement grid on top of the material (most often it is a polyethylene film), and the resulting space is filled with concrete, which is leveled.

What about the roof?

The roof is another important point that should be paid attention to when deciding how to make a cellar in the country with your own hands step by step. The instructions will help you complete the work as efficiently as possible. Most often, the cellar is covered with a gable roof, which is installed above the hatch. In this case, the roof must extend to the entire perimeter of the cellar in order to protect all materials from external influences. The front part of the roof should be covered with boards, and the slopes should be equipped first with roofing felt, and then with any roofing material.

Cellar made of concrete rings: construction features

Concrete rings are durable and reliable reinforced concrete products that are widely used in the construction of cellars. So how to make a cellar at the dacha with your own hands from concrete rings- this is not an easy task, it must be done correctly:

First a hole is dug. It must be deep enough so that all structural elements fit in it without problems. In order for the rings to be laid firmly, you need to add fragments of bricks to the soil.
The bottom, as in the case of a conventional cellar, is first arranged using a mixture of sand and crushed stone, and then covered with concrete.
The rings are installed in the right place. To do this, you will most likely have to use special equipment due to the heavy weight of the structures.
The roof is being built. The easiest way is to make it from thick boards and cover the top with roofing felt. It is important to leave a hole that will provide ventilation.
If the cellar was built from more than two rings, waterproofing of the joints will be required. Internal insulation should be done using liquid glass or mastic, and the outer one - with roofing material or again with mastic. After the materials are laid, the voids between the rings and the ground are filled with ordinary soil, or even better - with a more reliable method of fixation - with a concrete mixture.

Interior arrangement of the cellar

The inside of the cellar can be decorated the way the owner wants it. In the case of the concrete ring option, the difficulty lies in the fact that the shelves must be semicircular in shape. An important attribute of this room is the staircase. It is better to weld it to the top of the storage, or you can make it removable. As for finishing the cellar, it all depends on the features of the waterproofing. If it was done with high quality, then the finishing can be done with any materials. For ceilings on bars, insulation using mineral slabs is well suited, which is convenient to work with.

Many people leave brick walls unfinished, but you can make them at least smooth with plaster. Experts recommend treating such a surface with liquid insulation, which will penetrate into the material, crystallize there and provide resistance to moisture.

Or maybe a finished cellar?

You can also buy a ready-made structure if you don’t know how to make a cellar in your country house with your own hands. The photo of such a structure below shows that it is small and can be installed anywhere on the site. A compact solution is a cellar in the form of a barrel, which takes up little space and is spacious at the same time. The walls of such a barrel are sealed, strong and reliable, and they are also waterproofed, which eliminates the risk of corrosion and other negative impacts. Installation is simple: a pit is dug to suit the dimensions, where the base is carefully processed, and a barrel is placed on it.

Whatever cellar you build, you need to take care of it: keep it clean, ventilate and dry it. In addition, you cannot store flammable substances in it that violate the fire safety of the house. It’s quite easy to install it with your own hands, the main thing is to think through the drawings and choose the right materials.