Cork is an excellent floor covering if you are looking for a quiet, tactile, warm floor. The installation of cork is very different depending on the type of material chosen. A castle cork floor is easy to install, an adhesive floor requires certain knowledge. But both with that and with the other you can cope independently.
Laying cork is not glue - not an easy task... It is complicated by the fact that the material is natural and there are drawbacks on the surface of some tiles during production. There are also differences in the size of the tiles (the discrepancy is up to 1 mm) and thickness. Therefore, for self-installation, it is better to choose either the castle option - it fits like a regular laminate. You can also put a cork bag, which is put on the glue. But it is better to take it with a chamfer - it will be easier. In the presence of a chamfer during installation, the different thickness of the tiles is not visible (the difference can be substantial) and it is easier to work with the joints. But when buying, you need to take material with a large margin - about 10%: the offset should be strictly the same, and this is an additional consumption of material.
In any case, you should carefully read the installation instructions - there are a lot of nuances that have a significant impact on the result.
Base
Laying cork requires careful preparation of the substrate. Suitable as a base for an adhesive cork floor concrete slab or a screed leveled with self-leveling compound. They are also called. The compositions Vetonit 3000 or Osnovit T-45 have shown themselves well, but the like can be used.
For glued cork flooring, manufacturers recommend achieving perfect flat base no drops at all, under the lock on the floor there can be drops of up to 2 mm by 2 meters (checked with a ruler, level or rule). In practice, it turns out that the glue plug (cork parquet) normally falls on not quite even substrates. It is only important that the grooves / humps are very smooth, without steps, cracks, cavities, etc.
Laying the cork cover is possible only after the screed is completely dry. Permissible humidity - no more than 5%. If there is no moisture meter, take a piece of polyethylene with an area of about 1 square meter, glue it to the base with tape. It is necessary to glue tightly. Leave for a day, then tear off. If there is no condensation on the film, the floor has the required moisture content, a cork can be glued to it.
Cork can be laid on such a base - it is even, dry, clean
Before laying, the base is thoroughly cleaned - first with a broom, then with a vacuum cleaner. There should be no debris or dust on the surface.
Wooden floors are leveled with "dry screed" - moisture-resistant plywood, fiberboard, gypsum fiber board. Sheets are laid "in a run-up" - so that the seams do not coincide. When laying, leave gaps of 3-4 mm between the sheets, the sheets are attached to the subfloor using self-tapping screws. Their caps must be recessed into the material (if necessary, pre-drill holes).
Seams and holes are sealed with putty. Better to take an acrylic putty - it is more elastic than gypsum, glue "lays down" on it without any problems. After drying, sand the putty so that the entire surface is even. The base is cleaned of dust, it can be primed - to reduce the consumption of glue.
Tools
Glueing the cork flooring requires a number of tools. The set is not very large and does not require large material costs. Difficulties can arise only with a notched trowel - it should be with a very small tooth, and these are rare.
If it was not possible to find a spatula with a fine tooth, you can make it from an ordinary one using a file. The correct cutting depth is obtained when you pass the corner of the file along the edge two or three times. It won't take long.
Laying method
There is different schemes styling, including patterns. But they need to be calculated, and this requires certain knowledge and time. The first self-styling cork is desirable using the simplest bias circuits. It looks good and is perfect for building experience.
If glue stopper for your floor without a chamfer, you can use a haphazard method. Usually at the end of the row, the plank is not whole. The rest of it goes to the beginning of the next row. The same procedure continues further, with the only restriction that the "gap" of the seams should be more than 15 cm. If it turns out less, lay this piece through the row or a little later. As a result, there is no displacement pattern (well, almost), and the joints are almost invisible.
If a cork floor was bought with a bevel, then the offset should be clear - the boundaries of the tiles are clearly visible, therefore there should be order. In this case, an offset of 1/3 or 1/2 of the strip length is applied. The consumption for this method of laying cork is higher and this should be taken into account when buying.
Preparing adhesive cork floor tiles
The tiles are unpacked (all packs) and left for a day at room temperature. During this time, the tile will take on "working" dimensions and subsequently no gaps will appear. By the way, there are requirements for “ weather conditions»: Humidity 40-70%, temperature from + 18 ° C to + 30 ° C.
While the tiles are acclimatized, they must be sorted. This material is made from natural raw materials and defects are common. When sorting, you will need masking tape(paper) we designate the found defects with them, so as not to search for them again. We sort the tiles into three categories:
- without defects;
- with small defects (dents, slightly knocked edges and corners);
- with significant deviations (potholes, foreign inclusions, delamination of the decorative layer).
Next to each "marriage" we glue pieces of paper tape - it will be easier to find. There may be a lot of defective tiles, but it’s okay - there will be a place for them. We glue those tiles on which there are minor deviations near the walls. There is usually no direct light and these flaws are not visible. Severely defective tiles are placed last in the row. We choose such that the defect is under the plinth, and the remaining piece, already without flaws, goes to the beginning of the next row.
There is one more defect that is difficult to see in a separate tile, but it is very clearly visible in the installation. It happens that the decorative layer along the edge is sanded so that the substrate appears. We look at all the "good" bars for this drawback. We put them in the first or last row along the wall so that the chamfered edge is also under the skirting board.
There are also tiles of different thicknesses, so everything must be checked on this basis. We take a reference piece (you can cut it off from the defective strip), put it on one side and on the other, run your finger, checking if the thickness is the same. We put aside the thinner ones. We will lay them closer to the wall, where the differences are not so visible. For thicker ones, sand the edges. To do this, glue a strip of medium-grained sandpaper to the standard with the grain down, grind off the excess from the seamy side. The cork rests on the floor, the sandpaper cuts off the excess. As soon as the thickness is equal, we stop. After this preparation, laying the cork on the glue will be easier.
Markup
It is best to start laying the cork floor in the middle of the room. We find the center, through this point we draw lines perpendicular to the walls (at an angle of 90 °). In this case, we will lay the tiles along the walls. If you want to lay the cork cover diagonally, draw the lines at 45 ° in relation to the walls. It is easier to beat them off with a paint cord (a regular cord smeared with blue).
Typically, the long side of the cork strip is positioned along the long wall, but this is optional. Having decided how you will lay out the cork tiles, you need to check whether the last plank will be wider than 5 cm. To do this, "dry" tightly to one another, lay the tiles in a row on the floor - from wall to wall. The gaps at the walls should be more than 5 cm. If not, move the tiles so that the rule is fulfilled. It is necessary to check on the "narrow" - transverse side. Then you can lay the cork flooring, but the process itself is more complicated for cork parquet, and we will talk about it further.
Cork styling adhesive
This is very important point... When laying cork on glue, manufacturers usually recommend a specific brand. It is advisable to listen to their opinion, but it is quite possible to use a replacement similar in quality.
A solvent-based neoprene contact adhesive is used to lay the cork. It "smells" very much, so it is advisable to work in a well-ventilated area, but it is still better to have a gas mask. Without means of protection, there may be a severe headache, vomiting, and hallucinations may occur.
One more point. The glue and its vapors are highly flammable. Therefore, there is no smoking and even the close presence of fire. Just one spark (short circuit, for example) leads to ignition. Even dried glue burns, and fresh glue burns like this over the entire surface. Therefore, handle it very carefully.
On the back side of the cork tile, glue is applied with a velor roller, rolls out well even layer... It is poured onto the floor, then spread over the surface with a fine-toothed spatula. After application, the glue should dry for 30-40 minutes (more precisely, see the instructions on the jar), and the pot life of the glue should be several hours, so there is time for gluing and eliminating defects. But it will not be possible to tear off the laid and "knocked" tiles entirely, therefore, when laying the cork cover, we try on well and only then begin to press it.
When smearing the tiles, it is important to try not to stain the front side - all stains appear under the varnish. If, nevertheless, there are stains, we remove them immediately after gluing with white spirit or another solvent for your brand of glue.
To make the work move faster, find a flat sheet (cardboard, fiberboard, hardboard, any other material) that fits 5-10 tiles. Lay the tiles seamy side up, close to each other, joining wide parts. You will get a track. We coat all the tiles at a time and leave to dry.
Subsequently, in order for the work to go faster, it is better to have two planks on which the glue dries and to coat two areas with glue on the floor. Each time, wait 30-40 minutes - it will take a lot of time for styling, and so, while the first one is laid, the second is almost ready. We clean the freed board from glue, put the next batch, coat it, etc.
How to cut cork
Cutting the cork is simple - with a sharp blade along a metal ruler. If the tile is thick (there are 4 mm and 6 mm), approximately 1/3 of the thickness is cut in one pass. If the cut is hidden by the floor with a plinth, raise the bar, bend it along the cut line, it breaks. If necessary, you can help yourself with a knife.
Sometimes the cutting line has to be joined. Then you have to cut it off with a knife. You will have to carry out 2-3 times, and in order for the cut to be smooth, it is necessary that the ruler does not move. To do this, several pieces are glued to the seamy side of the ruler. double-sided tape... So that the scotch tape is not too sticky, it is "powdered" - with dust, building mixture, flour, etc.
Installation process
Next, the actual laying of the cork covering on the floor begins. We lay the first row along the drawn line. It is very important to lay it flat, without distortions and deviations. All joints must be absolutely even, therefore, in the first two rows from the stack "without scrap" select tiles with absolutely the same size... They can be laid out on an unstained part of the floor, checking the size and thickness match.
We spread the selected tiles with glue, wait for the allotted time. Getting started with the installation. We spread with one edge strictly along the line. With the first, everything is simple: they put it down, pressed it down with their hands, tapped it with a mallet.
The next one must be laid so that it goes 1-1.5 mm with its edge on the laid tile. So the joint will turn out to be tight and the cracks will not even subsequently form. To do this, we try on it, holding it in weight, making sure that it does not stick. When you are convinced that the edge comes to the desired distance, you can lower the far end, set the long side of the bar exactly along the line, and set the second end butt-to-end. A wave forms near the joint. It will straighten out due to the elasticity of the tile, but the adhesive cork floor will more resemble a continuous coating and there will be no gaps between the tiles.
We glue the laid strip from the far end, first smoothing it with your hand, then tapping it with a mallet. We put the “wave” last. It is nailed with a mallet towards the joint. It turns out a very tight seam. All other tiles are laid according to the same principle. They should be a little "cramped". Due to the resulting wave, we tighten the seam, in subsequent rows, due to elasticity, we also correct the discrepancies in the sizes of the planks.
When laying the second and subsequent rows, the longitudinal joint is also compacted by creating "tightness", but not in such a volume. Tightly, with a slight bend, we put the bar to the edge of the laid one, then we lower the opposite edge (the joint on the short side is still with the wave). We carefully tap each tile along the entire plane with a mallet, Special attention giving joints.
We cut the tiles at the walls so that a gap of 5 mm remains. This distance compensates for the thermal expansion of the floor covering and does not swell when the temperature rises.
Difficult places
Cork installation is rarely straightforward. It is usually difficult to bypass pipes. Try to have a tile joint on them. If not, we cut the cork in this place. but not straight, but obliquely, and so that the upper front part lies on the lower one.
In any case, first we make a template from thick paper or cardboard. We lay the cork floor so that less than one tile remains before the pipes, wait a while for the glue to dry even better, otherwise the paper or cardboard will simply stick and cannot be torn off without damage. In general, we are waiting for about an hour or a little more. Now the template will not stick "tightly". Cut out a piece of paper (cardboard) to the size of the tile, then cut out what you should get out of it. We apply cork to the sheet, circle it and cut it out, then glue it in place. It takes a long time, but it will turn out beautifully and without flaws. If something goes wrong, the imperfections can be repaired with parquet sealant before varnishing.
After laying, the entire cork floor is supposed to be rolled with a pressure roller according to the technology. This is an ordinary roller, but its weight is 50 kg and it presses the coating tightly against the glue. Since not everyone has such a device, you can try to replace it - gently trample on the entire surface yourself. The weight is not less, so there should be an effect.
Cork skirting board
The penultimate stage of cork installation is the installation of cork skirting boards. It is "tightly" glued to the floor covering, then it is still filled with varnish. The cork parquet laid in this way is absolutely airtight - a kind of trough is formed on the floor, the burs of which are the plinth. Therefore, we pay special attention to fitting - the joints must be tight.
The fitting process is not much different from the installation of a plinth made of ordinary materials: the corners are filed with the help of a carpenter's miter box (how to do it correctly, read the article about ceiling plinth, but the floor is cut as well). The tailored cork skirting board is glued to the floor surface, but not to the wall. He only leans against the wall.
Beveled cork floor - so you don't have to worry about the joints
According to the choice of length, the approach is as follows - we cut off a little longer than necessary, so that the joints are without gaps. After everything was cut, folded to dry, the docking was checked (flaws can be improved sandpaper) you can glue the cork skirting board. We glue a strip along the width of the plinth on the floor, on the lower side the plinth itself, wait the right time, glue in place, pressing it well with our hands.
Now the floor is almost ready. The laying of the cork coating on the glue is finished, the final stage remains - varnishing. We leave the finished floor to dry for several days (usually 72 hours, but just look at the instructions for the glue) and for now we try not to walk on it - so as not to move or stain. Once the adhesive has set completely, varnishing can be started.
How to varnish
The varnish is applied in a few words with a velor roller. The number of rollers is based on the number of layers. Examine the cork floor carefully for defects before varnishing. They will definitely be - you laid tiles with flaws, besides, in the process of work, new ones may appear: somewhere an edge has jammed, somewhere a dent has formed, etc. After the first varnishing, all these flaws are covered with parquet sealant. The first layer consumes a lot of varnish, but the film does not form on the surface, but all the flaws "climb" out. We eliminate them. Please note if the tile is already with a protective varnished(there are some), we use the sealant immediately.
We take parquet sealant suitable color... Sometimes you have to mix several different colors to get the shade you want. We use it to fill in grooves, chips, etc. We wipe off the excess immediately.
After applying the first coat of varnish, be prepared for the fact that all flaws will become more visible and the surface will be rough. We close up all the flaws, after the sealant has dried, smooth out the roughness along the entire surface of the floor with medium-grain sandpaper. Remove the resulting dust with a vacuum cleaner, wipe damp cloth... After drying, cover with a second layer of varnish. We pour it without sparing it, we fill in all the irregularities (chamfers, if there are any). Sometimes this is enough (the floor is smooth), sometimes a third layer is required. If you need the next layer, again remove the roughness with a sandpaper with a slightly finer grain, remove dust, wipe, dry, varnish. So until the result satisfies you.
There is a separate article on varnishing at home. You can read it.
Laying the interlocking cork cover
No wonder this type of cork is called "cork laminate". Laying - one to one. Likewise, a backing is required, only it is better to use cork. The difference is that it is also recommended to lay a dense plastic wrap... It is better if it is seamless, but you can also spliced two canvases. This will require double-sided tape.
Two canvases are spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The knock is glued with two strips of double-sided tape. This ensures a sufficient degree of sealing. This layer cuts off the possibility of capillary suction of moisture in the event of a wet overlap.
A substrate is laid over the spread film, and a cork floor with locks is already laid on it. The whole process is similar to laying a laminate, and it is described.
Connoisseurs of natural materials choose cork flooring. There are two ways of laying it: glue and thorn-groove.
The glue method is used when using natural cork, produced in the form of thick sheets. Thorn-groove is used when installing cork laminate, which top layer the cork acts, and the base is the NDF board, similar to the laminate.
Preparation before installation work
Have you decided how to install a cork floor? In fact, at the stage of preparation - it does not matter, the preparation of the foundation is carried out in the same way. The base must be perfectly flat and smooth. The better the floor is prepared, the longer the service life of the cork coating will be. The leveling of the floor is carried out along the beacons. The base is leveled with self-leveling compounds. This process should be approached responsibly.
Note! The varnished cork floor will further reveal the slightest irregularities.
The leveling compound must dry completely. Otherwise, mold will develop under the flooring. Based on this, to preparatory work it is worth starting in advance, about 3 weeks before the start of laying the cork.
Adhesive installation method
You will need the following tools to glue the cork flooring:
- roulette;
- ruler-square;
- pencil;
- notched trowel;
- rubber mallet;
- roller and container for varnishing.
Stages of work
- Dust and prime the floor.
- After waiting for the primer layer to dry, apply the markings.
- Draw one line in the middle parallel to the wall and mark the center on it.
- Start from a wall with no furniture along it. In this case, a gap of 5-10 mm should remain between the cork and the wall.
- A couple of days before installation works it is necessary to remove the cork from the packaging and leave it in the room in which the installation is planned for acclimatization.
Stacking cork
- Move the slabs halfway to simulate brickwork.
- Start laying the material from the wall and at the end inserting a piece of board, and start the next row with the remaining piece. In this case, the amount of waste is minimized.
Glue laying of tiles
Apply the adhesive to the substrate evenly and apply the first tile, pressing firmly against it. The area of the applied glue should exceed the size of one tile, so when laying the next one, you will not stain the already laid one. Then apply glue to the next section and secure the second tile.
In the absence of a chamfer at the edges, difficulties may arise at the joints. To fix this take rubber mallet and hammer in the protruding edge. The entire surface is covered in the same way.
Final row
Note! When laying the last row, you will most likely need to trim the material with sharp knife and rulers. Do not break the material, but run the knife several times.
The laying technique may differ depending on the selected adhesive. For example, polymer-based adhesive is applied directly to the material, not the floor. To avoid unexpected situations, carefully study the instructions before use.
Final stage
Once the cork is dry, a varnish coat is applied to it.
Note! Especially good in combination with cork acrylic lacquer on the water based which is odorless and harmless.
Before work, the floor is dedusted, and all window and door openings are hung. Every speck will be very noticeable under the varnish coat. If you have an unvarnished cork from the manufacturer, you will need to apply at least three coats of varnish.
Video
Mounting by the thorn-and-groove method
This method is much easier and you need tools for it:
- Electric jigsaw.
- Roulette.
- Square ruler.
- Pencil.
- Liner cutter.
Cork laminated flooring mounted in the same way as a conventional laminate. The base is cleaned of dust, then laid cork backing, the joints of which are processed with tape, and the installation process begins.
Laying rules
The first row is made of whole planks. The missing part is cut off with a jigsaw. When laying, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1 cm between the material and the wall.
The second row starts by trimming what is left over from the first. The row is collected separately, and then moves to the previously laid. The spike is inserted into the groove at an angle, and then the row is lowered and compacted with a tap of the hand. At long length premises, it is advisable to perform this work with a partner.
Note! Installation of cork laminate is carried out in the direction of sunlight.
The final row is trimmed one by one, you will need to measure them separately. The entire undercut row is also bundled and snapped into place. Cork laminate does not require a protective varnish layer, as provided by the manufacturer.
This completes the work and you can enjoy your new, environmentally friendly flooring.
Video
The floor inevitably comes into our field of vision, forming the image of the room as a whole. It should be comfortable and beautiful, because every day you have to come into contact with its surface. Basic requirements include insulation performance, environmental friendliness, durability, representative appearance... The choice of surface material should also include the specifics of the room, so the level of humidity, the number of visits in the bathroom, hallway and nursery is different. Among the many options, of course, preference should be given to wood. It is it that is always in fashion and suits any style and color. This material is capricious and unacceptable in rooms where the level of humidity is high, condensation and steam often appear. Thus, it is worth excluding the bathroom, toilet, kitchen. Wooden floor is and solid boards, and MDF, and laminate, and combined coatings. There is another way to arrange the floor in living rooms- do it yourself laying a cork floor. This procedure will take the whole family, becoming a vivid shared memory. The material is pliable and pleasant to the touch, and its fixation and distribution does not require special skills.
The origin of the material, its types
Cork is comparatively new material... It was only in the 17th century that it began to be used for corking wines, guided by the properties of a material that does not affect the taste of wine. Cork is now used in construction and decoration. This is the layer of cork bark that has been peeled off the tree since its 25th anniversary. It is during this period that the bark easily moves away from the branches and does not harm it. The material then goes through several stages of processing, which currently work quite effectively with large volumes of cork.
Cork floors are divided into types, the installation differs depending on this, therefore the video instructions differ from each other, taking into account the type of material used. The most expensive material is solid cork veneer. This is a slice that can be of various thicknesses. The form can be either solid - in the form of a board, or flexible - in the form of rolls. Surface color - yellow-brown, with a large natural pattern of dark saturated color. The material can be cut into tiles, as a solid piece is difficult to decompose, and the surface under it is ideally prepared. The underside can be covered with a foil for better adhesion of the adhesive to the surface.
Laying a cork floor from panels is like putting together a jigsaw puzzle. In this case, a special technology is used for each board. The MDF base is covered with a layer of pressed cork chips, and then a cut of cork veneer is glued to the front side. This type of floor can use cuttings and waste that is collected in the manufacture of solid cork, therefore, it is cheaper. In addition, for those who are going to carry out the work on laying the cork floor on their own, it will be easier to work with this material. A separate category is cork laminate, which is already prepared for fastening and can be installed after a preliminary calculation of the footage.
There are also suggestions from building stores where knowledge of cork flooring technology will help create a masterpiece. We are talking about cork tiles, which are made from crumb. Under influence high temperature it is pressed, the result is a yellowish basic tone, speckled with small grains of a darker color. Material properties, such as elasticity, thermal insulation, environmental friendliness, are preserved in this case. The size of the tiles is traditionally the same as the parameters ceramic slabs- these are squares and rectangles with a facet of 30, 60 cm.There are also smaller tiles, they rather resemble parts of a stained-glass window, thanks to bizarre form and small size... Only experienced master will be able to collect efficiently.
Installation work
Any construction and repair work requires concentration, uncommon desire and strength. In order for everything to succeed and the result not to disappoint, you need to choose the right materials in the store, calculate their required volume, find out where it is best to start work and how to deal with the premises after it is over. The work of laying a cork floor is not easy, as it requires accuracy, a good eye and patience, but from a technological point of view, even a child can handle it.
The basis is a rough floor. It must be flat, clean and dry. If your base is made of concrete, clean it from dirt and dust, examine the surface for cracks and chips. If there are any, they need to be sealed with putty, and if the floor is covered with irregularities, it is better to apply a layer of screed. Remember that the liquid layer must dry completely, and this can take a week. The wooden floor can be additionally covered with a layer of plywood.
Next, you need to buy glue, depending on the type of coating you choose. The parameters of this product are usually indicated on the packaging, so it is worth focusing on the instructions and advice of the sellers. Do not use ordinary water-based glue, it will not dry completely and transfer dampness to the cork, which quickly swells and begins to peel off and rise in bumps.
When laying a cork floor it comes rather about panels different sizes and it is very important to arrange them correctly. We start not from the walls, but from the center of the room. It can be determined by pulling the ropes from the corner to the thrust and fixing their middle. It is from this point that the layout will go. It is important to maintain symmetry so that the stripes of the laid panels or tiles are parallel to the line of the walls.
Cork laminate and solid panels
There are two ways to install a cork floor - glue and dry. One-piece cork, laminate, veneered MDF panels can be installed by attaching them to each other with special grooves. Such a floor is called “floating” or castle floor. On one side of the tile, there is a narrow hole along its entire length, and on the other, there is a ridge. One panel is placed under the other and snapped into place. This method is pleasant, since there is no need to fiddle with glue, scrub it off and breathe it in vapors. This method requires a specially prepared layer on rough floor for better isolation. It can be a plastic wrap fastened at the joints with tape or a furniture stapler, or it can be a layer of wood. Laminate or solid cork floors can also be installed on carpet as long as it is clean and level.
Cork flooring starts from the wall. The second one is applied to the first panel, slightly at an angle, then it is lowered, and the lock itself snaps into place. After laying the first row, you can move on to the second, and so on. It is better if the tiles are staggered, for this, through the row, you need to start with half of the board. Laying such a cork floor does not even require a training video, everything is intuitive. It got its name both thanks to the gaps between the planks, which must be left (about 7 mm), and due to the lack of fastening against the wall - the plinth only hangs above the floor, not attaching to it in any way.
Tile - the weapon of the master
Cork tiles - cheap cover, but it does not regulate the styling pattern, giving room for imagination. It is very important here to work with glue correctly. It is better to buy an expensive sample so that the work does not go down the drain. The first step is distributing the tiles. To do this, we determine the center of the room, from which we begin to lay out the tiles dry. First, we define the main points by laying out the largest tiles. Having covered the space of the room, we lay out small tiles in the crevices. Once you like the result, start gluing. It is made according to the same principle - starting from the center, with the largest tile. Remember they must be adjacent to each other.
The glue is applied both to the tile and to the base; the cork impregnation time is indicated on the package. The cork flooring technology involves applying the tiles with pressure so that the glue adheres better. The excess must be wiped off immediately so that there are no stains, for this you can use a sponge. After large tiles glued, you can fill the space between them with smaller pieces. If you do not have a suitable size, the tiles can be cut with a knife into several smaller ones.
Cork flooring can take anywhere from one day to several, depending on the rough surface. If you filled the floor with a screed, it is better to wait an extra day so that everything is completely dry, if you laid a cork base, then the period may be shorter. When choosing a cork floor, take care of matching skirting boards. Knowing how to lay tiles, you can put together a whole composition using different shades of cork or even tint it, but such panels are more suitable for walls.
A series of warnings
The cork also has a number of disadvantages. It swells and expands from moisture and shrinks from dryness and heat. These are common properties of wood and cannot be eliminated. Plus, it absorbs odors. Such a floor is unacceptable in the country, which you leave closed and unheated for a long time, in the bathroom, where high humidity, in the kitchen, where the smells of food will permeate the material.
Despite all the advantages of natural material - softness, shock absorption when walking, a feeling of natural texture, there is also back side question - the cork is not an antiseptic. In this case, you can see under the breakaway tile or other area that germs are likely to have grown under the coating. It is a plaque, a dubious liquid that looks like glue.
Of course, if the surface is glued on correct glue, the humidity will always be normal, and you will regularly clean, the likelihood of getting to know the germs face to face is minimal.
Care
The cork will serve you for a long time with careful handling. For regular cleaning, it is enough pure water or soap solution, but use chemical substances not worth it, there is a risk of damaging the natural surface. If you have a lot of furniture that also moves, it is better to secure pieces of cork on the legs, this trick will avoid scratches. Do not use rubber or latex mats, such as those sold for yoga, as they leave stains on the cork that cannot be removed.
The cork floor is warmth for your feet, the ability to lie and sit on the floor for your children. It will not tolerate fall injuries such as concrete base, it will cushion as you walk, creating the effect of being in touch with nature. Choose a quality floor, follow the instructions and your apartment will have an unrivaled look and feel.
Publication date: 28-10-2014
Cork flooring has become very popular, so several technologies have been developed for laying cork flooring.
Cork floor
Today on the market and in stores building materials You can find a wide variety of floor coverings.
Quite often, when choosing a covering for their home, people are interested in such a material as cork or, more precisely, this is a tree, in addition, information that tells how to lay a cork floor is of interest.
When buying, a natural question arises - which of the presented variety of types of cork panels to stop? In addition, the question of styling arises.
At this moment, everything will depend on the design of the buyer's premises, his color priorities and other things. Any buyer will choose a more acceptable option for himself without any problems.
The difference in price is due to the country of origin, type outer cover and the thickness and manner of laying.
Highest quality outdoor cork coverings usually produced in Portugal, a country generally considered to be the main supplier of this material... In terms of the quality of the cork panels, it can be said that the main criterion is the outer coating.
Types of coatings
The following types can be distinguished:
- Solid veneer - when a solid piece of veneer made of balsa wood, or rather its bark, is used for the outer covering of the panel;
- Crumb - agglomerate (crumb is pressed under high pressure and applied to the base of the panel);
- Mixed coating - a combination of veneer and chips;
Therefore - the most high quality coverage- This is the first option using a single piece of the bark of this tree.
Floating cork installation
It is also worth noting the following important categories dividing cork:
- Technical cork - as a rule, it is produced in bulk, in large plates or rolls. It is used as a sound-insulating and heat-saving substrate, and the scatter is mainly used as a filler for voids in the walls;
- Slab "for glue" - square or rectangular slabs of different dimensions. Used when gluing to a prepared substrate (subfloor);
- The floating floor is MDF panels, which are analogous to hardboard and have a size of 185x900 mm, pasted over with cork material. Used as a floating floor, i.e. not tied to the base;
It is worth noting that the technology of laying this or that floor is different.
In many respects, cork has superiority over other coatings - a variety of textures, pleasant to the touch, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, sufficient strength, elasticity - these are the advantages of this material.
The only drawback, perhaps, can be considered the relative high cost of the "plug" - the specifics, as well as the remoteness of production, leave their mark on pricing. But if you buy and install a cork at home, no doubt you will never regret purchasing.
Now you need to approach the issue of installing the floor with your own hands.
The technology says that for a start, after purchasing the material, it is necessary that it acclimatize - hold the material by opening the packaging in a room with room temperature and moderate humidity, which will allow the cork to dial desired parameters for installation.
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Installation methods
Styling cork
Floor installation can be done in two ways:
- Kleev;
- And the so-called "floating";
In the first method, the technology provides that the cork panels are glued to the prepared base - a concrete floor screed, leveled on the plane joists using plywood sheets or a wooden floor.
The panels have dimensions of 450x450mm, 600x300mm and 300x300mm. The thickness of the cork panels is the same, so installation is not difficult. It is also worth noting that this fact does not play a role when laying such floors.
An important point - you must first prepare the base. Check for any floor differences. If you have a concrete screed, simply pour a "liquid floor" into the curved place, you can also apply a cement mortar.
In the presence of a wooden floor, unevenness is eliminated by hardboard. If you have plywood in the base, you need to make sure that there is sufficient distance between the cross beams from each other in order to plywood sheets did not bend on the logs.
Also make sure that the logs are flush along and with each other. Having prepared the surface, you need to lay out several panels on the floor and decide on the rows of panels.
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Gluing
Designer cork floor
It is better to start laying and gluing panels from the center of the room. But before gluing the panels, markup and calculations should be carried out. It may be that the rows of the panel need to be offset from the center. These nuances depend on the characteristics of each room.
There are several rules for laying panels:
- The first stage is the stage of marking and calculations. You need to decide on the point from which the installation will go, draw two lines on it that will be parallel to the walls, but they themselves will intersect at right angles. This will become the starting station.
- After the calculations, you need to spread the panel with a special notched trowel with a uniform layer of glue, then the glue needs to be "dried" and pressed firmly against the base.
- It is required to control the location of the panel by the level-rail (the level-rail is applied on installed panel). If the level shows that the pressed panel does not form a flat surface, then you need to slightly press on the protruding edge with force. The glue will disperse under the weight, and the panel will take on a pleasant, even surface.
- When reaching the wall and trimming the panel, keep in mind the need to leave a small distance between the wall and the panel. Along with other trees, the cork tree also possesses the linear extension property.
The gaps left will be hidden by the skirting board, which will be installed after all the cork panels have been installed. Make transitions between rooms or dock the panel with others floor coverings it is possible by means of special overlaps.
In principle, styling does not take much time and effort when the right approach... Experts note that some safety measures must be observed: glue is considered a toxic substance, therefore, after installing all the panels, you need to ventilate the room immediately.
Cork floors, popular in the West, are not yet very common in our country. And in vain, because cork is a natural material that perfectly absorbs sounds and retains heat. In addition, it is believed that a cork covering is, in fact, an orthopedic covering, which helps to reduce the stress on our spine. As you can see, there are a lot of advantages.
If you decide to independently carry out the work on laying this wonderful coating, then you should carefully study the instructions.
Preparing the base
To prevent your cork floor from suddenly swelling or loosening, you should lay it on a perfectly flat surface. There are several ways to align.
Plywood base. Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are attached to concrete screed, then grind. If the covering to be laid on plywood has a ready-made cork bottom layer, then there is no need for a backing.
Linoleum. Laying on linoleum is possible only if the floor under it is perfectly flat. There is no need to lay a substrate on linoleum.
Screed. The most common way to prepare the subfloor before installing the floor. After drying, the concrete screed is leveled grinder, cover the plastic wrap and only then the substrate.
Laying methods
There are two known options for laying a cork floor:
- castle;
- adhesive.
Faster styling provides lock method , but it can only be used on a perfectly level base. Minus this option is that floors of this type (due to the "floating" technology) can only be connected through sills, even when the same type of cork is installed in all rooms.
Adhesive way you can put the cork on any surface, including uneven ones, but after installation, the floor must be varnished on top. Lacquer topcoat perfectly protects the coating from moisture and makes its surface monolithic. Adhesive floors are installed without a single sill throughout the apartment and can also be combined with other floor coverings such as parquet or porcelain stoneware.
We propose to consider both methods of installation in a little more detail.
Adhesive cork floor
It is necessary to leave a gap of 3-4 mm between the covering and the wall. If there is a door in the room, the bottom of the door must be cut to the height of the cover.
Glueless cork floor
- Cork boards with wood or plywood cores are installed in a "floating" method using locks (no glue). Such a floor is usually supplied with a backing and a protective layer. The boards are neatly connected by snapping the lock in the same way as when laying laminate flooring.
- Glueless slabs should be laid sequentially from the edge of the wall to the opposite one. In this case, the slabs should be joined using the method " brickwork", Preventing the joint of four plates at the same time.
- Make sure that the smaller side of the slab is parallel to the wall with the door - this way the room will appear visually elongated.
- Cover the cork floor with varnish to protect it from water ingress. You can also use special sealant gels to seal the joints between the slabs. Before roller-coating the entire surface, apply the varnish with a brush around the edges, near the walls.
The cork floor is easy to maintain and can be cleaned with a damp sponge.
