How to raise the floor on a balcony: methods and process of raising the floor on a balcony with your own hands. Leveling the floor on a balcony: basic methods An easy way to straighten the floor on a balcony

The balcony is a room that is very often left for performing primitive tasks - drying clothes or storing cans of seaming, although in some cases about 3 square meters are lost in this way usable area. Of course, a balcony is a room that differs in comfort from the rest of the apartment, but this comfort can be created - for this you will need to make floor joists with your own hands, then insulate it and lay a finishing coating. Let's talk in more detail about how a subfloor is made on joists.

Leveling the floor with joists

If in the main rooms of the apartment builders are trying to maintain the floor level and eliminate any differences, then on the balcony everything is not so categorical - there are many irregularities that are caused by both the poor quality of the concrete slab and the installation. To ensure that nothing on the future floor rolls to one side, floor leveling will be required. To do this, you can use pouring a concrete screed, however, this method has one significant drawback - concrete has a large specific gravity, therefore, with large unevenness, leveling the floor will be problematic due to building codes(the load on the balcony from even one centimeter of concrete screed increases significantly). At the same time, you will have to wait several days until the concrete solution is completely dry.

Treating logs with an antiseptic

Wood – natural and environmentally friendly pure material, however, it is very sensitive to high levels of indoor humidity. Under its influence on the surface wooden logs, which lead to further rotting and destruction of the floor. In order to avoid the problem, it is worth using one of the options for the antiseptic composition.

Today the most common options are the following:

1. Impregnations on water based;
2. Oil-based compounds;
3. Combined mixture based on chemical compounds.

The most popular water-based compounds, which provide not only excellent protection against rotting, but also increase the fire resistance of wood. The advantage of water-based compositions is their deep penetration into the structure of the bar.

The lags should be treated with an antiseptic after drilling the mounting holes, since drilling the treated lags can lead to destruction of the protective layer. Fill the holes thoroughly with impregnation. After that the logs are finally drying.

Waterproofing the floor surface

While the logs treated with an antiseptic compound are drying, there is time to treat the concrete base. In order for a minimum amount of moisture to reach the wood, simple antiseptic treatment is not enough - it is necessary to block the road to the joist bars for moisture. To do this, you can use a waterproofing film or other simple and proven methods.

Bitumen-based mastic is perfect for waterproofing a concrete base. There are thick options that are diluted with a solvent, and there are also those that are sold in a ready-to-use state. We take a brush in our hands and apply a waterproofing compound to the concrete floor.

Marking the room and laying logs

As we have already found out, you can level the floor without using a screed. To do this, you will need planed wooden blocks with a cross section of 50x50 millimeters, anchor bolts, and plastic wedges.
But still, if the floor has significant unevenness in the form of bumps or sagging, then they should first be eliminated even in this method leveling to avoid the use of a large number of pads under the joists.

So, let's start installing the logs:

1. We measure the dimensions of the balcony room. It is not worth making ultra-precise measurements - it is advisable that the logs do not reach the walls approximately by 1-2 centimeters;
2. According to the obtained dimensions, we cut blanks from wooden beams - transverse and longitudinal logs;
3. We lay out the first row of transverse logs in increments of about 40-50 centimeters.

It is not necessary to level the first “floor” of the logs using a building level, however, significant distortion during their installation should also not be allowed. To secure the joists to the concrete floor you will need a hammer drill, a screwdriver and anchor bolts.

First of all, we drill holes in the wooden blocks - it is optimal to use two anchor bolts at a distance of about 5-10 centimeters from the edge of the log. You can drill holes by putting the logs aside, but a modern hammer drill will easily make holes in the bars together with the concrete. The only thing is that you shouldn’t drill wood too intensively with a concrete drill to avoid splitting it.

Drill a hole at one end of the joist, then at the other. After this, it is advisable to remove the joist from the floor and clean the formed hole in order to insert the anchor bolt without any problems. Now we put the log in place and insert 2 anchor bolts into the holes.

The anchor fastener does not work to press the joist to the floor surface, so you should step on the block with your foot before pressing it.

Using a screwdriver, fix the joist to the floor. We perform similar actions with the rest wooden blocks. The first “floor” of the log is ready. Yes, before final fastening, the logs must be treated with a special antiseptic composition.

Floor insulation using joists

The subfloor on the joists must be insulated. The most common options for insulation materials are penoplex or ordinary expanded clay. A combination of them is possible.

So, the first level of the log is fixed. Now you need to fill the gaps between the bars insulation material. Let's consider two options. In the first case, or polystyrene foam. To do this, you will need to cut out the pieces using a construction knife.

Tip: Do not cut insulation blanks too tight in size to the joists. This will result in no space to fill polyurethane foam.

We lay sheets of insulation (the thickness should be the same as the logs themselves), leaving equal gaps to the joists. Now they need to be filled with foam. A gap of one centimeter is enough for this.

The second option is even simpler. In the spaces between the joists it is poured even layer expanded clay, which will be an excellent heat and sound insulator. It is worth pouring such a layer so that it does not interfere with the installation of the next level of the structure.

Laying and insulation of the second level of logs

After the polyurethane foam has dried, we begin laying the second level of floor joists with our own hands. To do this you will need the above plastic wedges and building level. Now the logs will be attached to the first level using wood screws. First, plastic wedges are placed under the edges of the log, it is fixed with self-tapping screws, now you need to place a wedge under the middle of the log to eliminate its sagging. The remaining longitudinal logs are set similarly. The result should be one level at any point on the bars.

After fixing the lag, “repeated” insulation is performed. IN in this case It is better to use only polystyrene foam or penoplex (for example, on top of a layer of expanded clay). The seams are filled again with polyurethane foam. After it dries, the protruding parts are cut off with a construction knife.

Important: If the height dimensions of the balcony (loggia) do not allow installing the floor along joists in two levels, then you can use one, but in this case penoplex is best suited as insulation.

Floor installation

At the previous stages, the floor is completely leveled and prepared for laying an intermediate layer of OSB boards, plywood, or a finishing layer of planed floorboards.

In order to secure the plywood sheets to the joists, you will need small self-tapping screws. To accurately hit the joist with a self-tapping screw after laying a sheet of plywood, first mark the centers of the joists on the walls with a simple pencil.

Cut out a sheet of plywood or OSB boards according to the size of the balcony or loggia room, we lay it and fix it with self-tapping screws. The subfloor is completely ready for laying the finishing coating, for example, laminate.

In the case of using floorboards, measurements should be made more accurately so that there are very small gaps to the walls that can be closed by a modern plastic skirting board about 20 millimeters wide. To protect the boards from moisture, they can be treated decorative impregnation and cover with a layer of varnish.

DIY subfloor video

In this section, we invite you to watch a video tutorial on how to make logs for the loggia floor yourself.

The floor on the balcony (loggia) in most city apartments is concrete slab without finishing. This means that when landscaping a balcony, a considerable part of the costs and time will have to be devoted to leveling the floor and preparing it for laying the finishing coating. Let's figure out how to do it yourself.

What materials can be used?

If the balcony is glazed with high quality, insulated and heated by radiators or using a heated floor system, then you can choose any materials for leveling and finishing the surfaces. The same as in living rooms.

A glazed balcony without heating is also protected from precipitation, but is subject to temperature changes, which can affect the appearance of condensation. Therefore, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant materials for such rooms. For leveling the floor, plywood, gypsum fiber board, moisture resistant drywall, DSP, OSB, screeds. Linoleum, tiles, carpet, and moisture-resistant laminate (class 33-34) are used as finishing materials.

Most difficult case- an open balcony, the floor of which gets rain and snow, and in winter there are sub-zero temperatures. Such floors can be leveled with screeds, DSP sheets, OSB. Finishing coatings: ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, terrace boards.

It is very important to remember that a balcony is a slab, three sides of which are suspended. It is not advisable to overload it. Therefore, the design of the floor on the balcony should be as light as possible. If leveling requires raising the floor by 20 cm, do not use a heavy cement screed for this. Give preference to floors on joists that place virtually no load on the slab. Cement screeds are good if the floor needs to be leveled by 3-5 cm and no more.

How to determine the level of a clean floor?

When the material has been decided, another question arises: to what level should the floor be leveled? You can use a water level (spirit level). To do this, place a line on the balcony wall in an arbitrary place, and use a spirit level to make marks at the same level on other walls. A line (horizon) is drawn along the obtained points. In the highest places of the floor (determined visually), measure the distance to the horizon. From the smallest measurement, subtract the thickness of the floor structure and set aside the resulting distance from the horizon to the floor. Focusing on this point, using a water level, mark the level of the “clean floor”.

Easier to use laser level. It is enough to install it in the highest corner of the balcony, turn it on, and it itself, using laser dots or a line, will indicate an even horizontal line. This is what you need to measure up to when installing the floor.

Home craftsmen often use a regular bubble level to create a horizontal line. You need to act like this: determine the highest corner of the room by eye and place a mark near the floor. The height of the floor structure is measured from the resulting mark upwards. Using a level, draw a straight line along the mark, extending it along the perimeter of the balcony. However, this method has too large an error, so it is not used for high-quality alignment.

Leveling with cement screed

This is one of the most reliable ways to get smooth and durable surface. It is used if the height of the required leveling is 3-5 cm. A screed less than 3 cm is fragile and is likely to quickly crack. At the same time, a screed thicker than 5 cm will unnecessarily overload the balcony floor.

Materials and tools required for work:

• waterproofing primer for concrete;
• cement, sand or ready-made mixtures (cement mortar or sand concrete);
• beacons, boards for formwork - as necessary;
• building level;
• metal rule;
• trowel (for laying out or mixing the solution);
• mixer;
• brush or roller (for priming).

The technology of work is as follows. Remove debris, clean the surface from dust, oil stains, and broken parts of concrete. All cracks are sealed with cement or gypsum mortar. Then a primer is applied to the surface, which will strengthen the adhesion of the screed to the concrete slab and additionally act as a waterproofing agent.

If the balcony is open, with a lattice fencing, then, to prevent the screed from spreading, temporary formwork is installed along the edge of the slab. Most often, its role is played by thin boards or plywood. A balcony with a monolithic fence does not need formwork.

Then they install beacons. They are long metal guides with a reinforced profile. They are cut into pieces equal to the length of the balcony and installed every 50-60 cm. The top of the beacons should coincide with the top level of the planned screed. For standard narrow balconies, it is enough to use 2 beacons.

Beacons are fixed on cement or gypsum mortar, carefully checking their horizontalness with a level. After 2-3 hours, after the solution has hardened, the beacons will be ready to be filled with screed.

When screeding on a small balcony, the role of guides can be played by formwork boards, the top of which is hewn to the required level.

Then mix the cement mortar for the screed. The optimal ratio of cement and sand is 1:3. Enough water is needed so that the solution becomes like thick sour cream; on average, 10 kg of dry mixture requires 2 liters of water. Mixing the components occurs either manually (using a trowel) or with a mixer. The ready-made mixture is, of course, more convenient to use - there is no need to check the components, just add water to the mixture and mix.

Now pour the solution onto the floor. Using a metal rule, level the solution, pulling it along the beacons. In hot and dry weather, cover the wet screed with film or burlap. This will prevent the solution from drying out quickly and cracks from appearing.

After 1-2 days, the formwork is removed. If necessary, remove the beacons (you can leave them in the screed). The paths from the lighthouses and the gaps left from the formwork along the edges of the screed are sealed with thick cement mortar. The surface is leveled with a grater (foam or wood). After 1-3 weeks, the finishing coating is laid on the finished screed: linoleum, laminate, tiles, decking, etc.

Leveling the floor with a self-leveling solution

If existing irregularities on concrete floor less than 3 cm, then it is not advisable to apply a regular cement screed. Most likely it will crack. There are more reliable way make a thin, absolutely flat and smooth surface - use self-leveling solutions. The thickness of such ties can vary from 3 mm to 3 cm.

To install a self-leveling screed, you need: a primer, a self-leveling mixture, a spatula, a brush or roller (for priming), a needle roller (for deaerating the screed) and a mixer.

The alignment goes like this:

1. The floor is cleaned of chips, paint, grease and oil stains. Cracks in the floor, between the slab and the walls are repaired. Dust the surface with a vacuum cleaner - construction or household.
2. The cleaned floor is primed with a brush or roller. According to the instructions, the primer takes 4-6 hours to gain strength. It is advisable to maintain this interval before moving on to the next stage of work. Despite the fact that the primer dries much faster - in the summer in 1-2 hours.
3. Add the leveling mixture with water and mix with a mixer until it becomes liquid and flowing.
4. Pour the mixture onto the floor, trying to distribute it evenly. Level the screed with a metal spatula.
5. Roll over the liquid surface with a needle roller to remove air bubbles from the mixture.
6. This screed hardens in 1-2 days, after which you can walk on it. Finishing is carried out only after 1-2 weeks, according to the recommendations of the manufacturers of specific mixtures.

How to level the floor using this technology, watch the video:

Performing a dry screed

A dry screed on the balcony will help you out if you need to not only level, but also insulate the floor. At the same time, there is no desire to interrupt technological process while the cement mortar hardens. A dry screed is ready for further finishing immediately after its creation. Another advantage is the speed of installation. On the balcony, dry screeding will only take a few hours.

To install a dry screed, you will need to purchase: bulk thermal insulation material - expanded clay (or coarse sand, slag), subfloor elements (GSP, GVL, DSP, OSB), polyethylene film (waterproofing), self-tapping screws, edge tape (made of polyethylene foam), tape or masking tape, U-shaped profiles as beacons, a grater and a rule.

Technology for creating dry screed:

1. Prepare the floor. Clean it from debris and dust. Cracks are sealed with cement mortar. The gaps between the slab and the walls are filled with polyurethane foam.
2. An edge (damper) tape is laid along the perimeter of the walls, which plays the role of soundproofing material. If you skip this installation step, the floor slabs will make quite noisy sounds when they come into contact with the walls.
3. Start waterproofing. To do this, place a plastic film on a concrete slab, placing it over the walls 6-10 cm above the level of the future floor. The edges of the film are fixed with tape.
4. Beacons are installed - thick-walled U-shaped profiles that will help more accurately level the expanded clay layer. They are laid on the floor along long walls without fastening, the wide (supporting) side down, check the horizontal position using the rule. The level of the upper edges of the profiles must coincide with the planned level of the expanded clay layer.
5. Expanded clay is poured between the profiles in a layer of 3-7 cm. By stretching the rule along the beacons, the resulting surface is leveled. The remaining irregularities are smoothed out with a grater. To move along the expanded clay layer, “pedestrian paths” made of square sheets of plywood or gypsum fiber board laid out in the form of paths are used.
6. Covering slabs are laid. To be able to connect them together (they will not be attached to the floor!), use plates with grooves. They are laid, pressing them as tightly as possible against the wall. Then the structure will be able to withstand any load no worse than a concrete screed. The joints in the grooves are glued with construction adhesive and fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 5-10 cm.
7. The parts of the edge tape and polyethylene film that rise above the floor are cut to the level of the coating slabs.

This technology is reproduced step by step in the video:

Leveling the floor using joists

This method will help level, raise and insulate the floor. And at the same time there is practically no load concrete base balcony According to the technology, a sheathing of timber is made on the floor, which is sewn on top with boards or slab material. Any communications, waterproofing and insulation can be installed inside such a floor.

Necessary materials: timber, insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay), waterproofing film (optional), screws, dowels, material for covering the logs (boards, plywood, OSB, gypsum fiber board, GSP).

Alignment is performed according to the following plan:

1. Remove debris and dust from the concrete surface using a broom and a vacuum cleaner (construction or household).
2. If there is an open space or an unglazed neighbor's balcony under the concrete slab of the balcony, it is necessary to waterproof the floor. To do this, plastic film is laid on the floor, and the edges are placed on the walls. Instead of film, you can use combined materials that simultaneously act as a hydro- and heat insulator. A well-known similar material is penofol.
3. Logs - wooden blocks - are fixed on top of the waterproofing. Typically, bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are used, but this size can be adjusted depending on the height of the planned floor structure. If it is necessary to increase it, it is allowed to lay the bars in several tiers in height, securing them together with self-tapping screws. The logs are fixed to the floor with dowels in increments of 40-50 cm. The distance from the outer bars to the walls is maintained at about 5-10 cm.
4. Insulation is laid between the bars. If the balcony is open, then it is better to use foam or expanded clay for this purpose. You can use everything on a glazed balcony modern insulation materials: glass wool, basalt wool, EPPS, etc. When laying insulation, you should leave as few cracks as possible, which will lead to the appearance of cold bridges.
5. The joists are sewn up on top finishing material: tongue-and-groove boards, plywood, CBPB, GVL, GSP, OSB.

The master will tell and show you how to make a floor on joists:

After leveling is completed, finishing finishes can be laid on the subfloor: carpet, laminate, linoleum, tiles, decking boards.

The floor on a balcony or loggia is most often a bare concrete slab, which over time becomes uneven, chipped, and cracked. Slabs on non-glazed areas suffer the most, as they are constantly exposed to precipitation and temperature changes.

How to level the floor on the balcony and prepare it for finishing? There are several answer options to this question; which one to choose depends on the condition of the main surface and the desired result.

Before finishing, it is important to properly level the floor

Preparatory work and selection of material

The floor leveling process requires preparation, just like any other construction works. You should start by assessing the condition of the slab. If it is weakened, then it is better not to use heavy types of screed, but to choose the option of leveling with lags. If there is old finishing, such as tiles, it must be removed using a hammer drill to relieve pressure on the base. Many slabs have large differences; if they exceed 10 cm, then heavy types of leveling are excluded for the same reason.

Attention! Do not overload the stove, especially if it is damaged, this can be life-threatening!

Before starting work, the surface is cleaned of dust and loose fragments and covered with a primer; it is better if it contains an antiseptic. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence of mold and mildew, since a balcony or loggia is a room with increased level humidity.

The choice of material depends on whether the balcony is glazed or not. The open space must have a coating that is resistant to moisture and temperature changes. On a closed loggia you can use any type of rough and fine finishing.

Basic requirements for the floor on a balcony or loggia:

• on an open balcony, the floor surface should have a slope of 3 - 5 degrees to allow precipitation to flow off;
• if there is a curb, it is necessary to provide a drain along the edge in the form of a recess in the screed or a pipe with a drain;
• there should be no serious cracks or chips on the main slab; only minor defects are allowed.

You can make a smooth and beautiful floor on a balcony or loggia with your own hands. To eliminate errors, it is necessary to take into account many features of materials and accurately determine the zero mark.

Level determination

The highest point on the balcony slab will become a guideline for installing the covering. It is especially important to determine the level for performing the screed. To mark the alignment line use different kinds tools and devices:

1. Construction level is the most affordable option, since it is always available in the arsenal. Using a plank on the walls, you need to make level marks and connect them with a straight line, this will become a guide for further work.
2. A laser level is an indispensable device for a professional builder. The effort required is minimal, the level itself determines the zero mark with a laser, and the accuracy is very high;
3. The hydraulic level is a difficult device to use; it is better to work with it in pairs. Before you begin to determine the starting point, you must make sure that there are no air bubbles, otherwise the readings will be distorted.

After the zero mark is set at the highest point, mark the level of the finished floor. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the minimum thickness of the material for leveling - it must be at least 3 cm for all types of coatings.

Construction level - the easiest option

Ties

Optimal and practical option in order to level the floor on the balcony with your own hands - these are wet and dry screeds. They can be used both on glazed and open areas, the main thing is not to lose sight of the minimum and maximum allowable thickness values.

Concrete

Floors with unevenness of no more than 3 - 5 cm can be perfectly corrected with a concrete mortar-based screed. It is most convenient to carry out such leveling on a monolithic loggia, but it is also possible to use this method on balconies with lattice fencing. Temporary formwork made of boards will reliably hold the solution until it dries.

In addition to the standard preparation of the slab, in order to fill the floor on the balcony with your own hands, you need to install so-called beacons; they will create a perfectly flat surface. You can make them from metal profile, cut into fragments. They must be equal to the width of the balcony. Beacons are installed level or, if the balcony is open, with a slope, but their upper part must coincide with the floor pouring line. The pitch of the beacons is 50 - 60 cm.

Carrying out concrete screed, you can achieve a perfectly flat surface

The cement mortar is diluted with water to the consistency of thick sour cream; it is important to observe this nuance, since a mass that is too liquid will pour out through small cracks, and a mass that is too thick will be difficult to level. The concrete screed layer should be more than 3 cm; too thin a coating will quickly crack.

The solution poured onto the floor is immediately leveled according to the beacons using the rule. After a day, you can remove the formwork and beacons, and cover up the remaining traces of them. The completely dry surface is leveled with a grater. You can begin finishing work in a few days.

If the slab on the balcony or loggia has slight differences, up to 3 cm in height, you can use a modern and simple method - make a self-leveling floor. This option is especially suitable for those who decide to level the surface with their own hands.

The preparation of the slab is carried out in a similar way, but there is no need to use beacons, since the screed on the balcony levels itself. Water is added to the solution to a fluid consistency. The mixture poured onto the floor is rolled with a special roller with needles to release air bubbles. On large loggias, the surface is additionally leveled with a spatula.

The self-leveling floor can be made not only perfectly smooth, but also original

Finishing can be done in at least a week, but the use of the balcony space is allowed after 2 - 3 days.

Dry

The labor-intensive and painstaking process of performing dry screed is fully justified by the effect it gives:

• the floor can be immediately covered with a finishing coating;
• serves as reliable insulation;
• suitable for open and closed balconies and loggias.

When preparing the base, soundproofing tape should be placed along the walls so that the floor does not make sounds when walking, and waterproofing should also be laid in the form of a durable film. Be sure to make beacons so that the backfill layer has a smooth surface. A layer of expanded clay several cm thick is laid between the profiles.

For covering, it is necessary to use materials equipped with grooves, since with this leveling method it is impossible to attach the sheets to the floor. They are laid tightly against the walls and fixed together with glue or self-tapping screws. Start installation decorative covering you can immediately.

Alignment with lags

If there are large differences and unevenness, screeds cannot be used. You can correct the surface with your own hands using lags. In addition, at the same time as leveling, it is possible to insulate the floor well and not make it heavier.

To work you will need wooden beam, any insulation and covering made of plywood, boards or OSB. Before starting work, if necessary, lay hydro- and thermal insulation from film and penofol. The bars are adjusted in level and fixed to the floor and to each other. Next, insulation is laid, for example mineral wool or polystyrene foam, and sheathed with cladding sheets.

There are other ways to level the floor on a balcony or loggia with your own hands, for example, if the unevenness is very minor, you can simply lay the tiles on the mortar, thereby saving time and money.

Basically, the question of how to level the floor on a balcony is asked if future plans include its glazing and subsequent installation flooring. In some cases, performing such work will have a beneficial effect not only on decorative form premises, but will also strengthen the structural strength of the balcony slab.

This is due to the fact that the house, and with it the balcony ceiling, built several decades ago, lose their former strength over time. For example, a slab can withstand a load of 400 kg/m2, but due to the fact that it was under open air, the influence of rain and wind, the coefficient can be safely divided in half. Thus, pouring the floor becomes a very useful activity.

Defining the terminology

For a closer look at the topic, we will consider 3 categories of balconies:

For each of them, you can use a separate material that will be used to level the surface. If the method is chosen incorrectly, the coating may collapse under negative impact various factors.

Open balcony

In summer it rains and in winter it snows. For this type of premises, a cement floor screed is simply necessary. In addition to leveling, the surface of the slab will be strengthened with a fresh layer. If the house has recently been put into operation, and the condition concrete floor is in perfect condition, you can use the OeSBi or DSP sheet. As a decorative coating, the ideal option would be to use materials such as:

• Decking.
• Ceramics.
• Porcelain tiles.
• Paving slabs.

It must be taken into account that the base of the structure is largely in a suspended state. Therefore, when choosing a method for leveling the floor on a balcony with your own hands, you should not use heavy materials.

Loggia

In this case, the floor slab is protected from the effects of snow, rain and wind. However, it is subject to sudden temperature changes, due to which drops of condensation periodically form. That's why
The ideal option would be to use moisture-resistant materials:

• Plywood.
• OeSBi.
• Cement strainer.

Only moisture-resistant floor coverings can be used: linoleum, tiles, laminate class 33 or 34.

Loggia with heating

A screed for a loggia, which is well-glazed and constantly heated during the cold season, is needed directly to level the surface. Absolutely all types of floor coverings used in the living room are used as the finishing layer.

Installation of beacons

Beacons for level determination

You can accurately determine to what level the floor on the balcony needs to be leveled using a spirit level (water level) or using laser level. Both tools allow you to mark the boundaries of the plane with an accuracy of 1 - 2 mm. The only difference is the complexity of the work. Electronic device It will help you take the necessary measurements much faster. But him minimum price starts from 3,000 rubles, when a water one costs only 300 - 400. Naturally, in order to make a screed on a loggia or balcony, you should not buy a device that will not be useful in the future.

It should be noted that the poured floor on an open balcony should have a slight slope towards the street. This is required so that the water that gets here does not stagnate, but flows out. For a meter of slab width, 1 cm of slope is enough.

Water level measurement

The highest point of the floor is visually selected (the place where it is raised up as much as possible) and next to it, the first mark is placed on the wall. Using a level, marks are made on the same boundary on the remaining walls. After which all given points are connected by a straight line. This is the so-called horizon. A calculation is made of the thickness to which the screed will be poured. Then, subtracting this value from the height of the horizon, the level of the finishing layer of the future floor is marked on the walls.

Measuring with a laser level

Laser level measurements

The device is installed at the highest point of the floor (preferably in a corner). After turning on the power, it will automatically determine the points of the even horizontal line. After making marks with a pencil or marker, you should rotate the level, holding it by the tripod, and mark the horizontal line on the remaining walls. After this, you can safely remove the device and start filling the floor on the balcony with your own hands.
More expensive models devices show the horizontal line not as dots, but as a solid line, which is a more convenient option.

Watch the video on how to properly level the floor:

Floor leveling methods

Modern technologies allow 2 options for how to make a floor screed on a balcony. Moreover, each has its own advantages and disadvantages compared to a similar method.

Wet screed

Leveling the floor with a wet screed

When choosing how to screed on a balcony, you should take into account that the thickness of the cement-sand layer should not exceed 7 cm. As a result of pouring, the total weight of the structure will increase significantly, and the base may not withstand the load.

The main disadvantage of this method is the time it takes to complete the work. Before complete hardening it will take at least three days from the moment of filling. This is only for a layer of 2 - 3 cm; with a greater thickness, an even longer period may be required. Again depending on the temperature.

How to fill the floor on the balcony with your own hands? Even a person inexperienced in construction can handle the job. The procedure is as follows:

• A layer of waterproofing is laid.
• Beacons are installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
  This is done using self-tapping screws and fishing line.
• The cement mixture or self-leveling floor is mixed in a container according to the instructions indicated on back side package and pours onto the surface. The resulting mixture is distributed using a trowel and then rules.
• After 1 - 2 days, the line of beacons is removed, the surface is rubbed with a trowel with a new mixture. Unevenness should be dealt with in the same way.
• It is recommended to lay the finishing coating on the floor only after the mixture has completely hardened.

In order to avoid possible cracking of the surface during drying, you need to cover it with plastic film, periodically spray it with water, and open it only when necessary.

Dry screed

Leveling the floor with a dry screed

Dry floor screed will be an ideal option for subsequent insulation. It is made using materials that have good thermal insulation properties and meet all requirements for fire safety residential premises. Screeding the floor on the loggia in this way is done with the following materials:

• Expanded clay sand.
• Expanded clay gravel.
• Expanded clay crushed stone.

The advantage that sets dry screed on a balcony apart is the time spent on completing the work. After preparing the surface and determining the horizontal, the material is poured out and leveled using the rule. Immediately after this, a gypsum fiber board is laid on top, after which the finishing flooring material can be laid on the surface. Another plus is the absence of “wet” work, since there is no need to stir the cement mortar, use water and dilute dirt. The main disadvantage is the high cost of expanded clay in relation to cement.

Do-it-yourself dry screed on the balcony in the following order:

• Formwork is installed around the entire perimeter of the balcony.
• A layer of waterproofing is laid out.
• Expanded clay no larger than 30 mm is poured onto the surface and compacted until it is level with the upper edge of the formwork.
• Gypsum fiber boards are laid on a leveled layer of expanded clay.

The video below explains very well how to properly screed a floor:

Formwork made of plywood or boards must be treated with an antiseptic that protects the wood from rotting and fungus formation.

Everyone chooses how to level their balcony or loggia individually. The only thing worth remembering is that the quality, and perhaps the service life of the final decorative coating, will depend on how the work is done. For example, laminate flooring requires a perfectly flat surface. Otherwise, over time, due to the fact that he will “play”, the locks will become loose and become unusable. Therefore, the floor screed on a balcony or loggia must be perfectly flat relative to one plane.

Many people want to make a loggia an additional corner of comfort. Moreover, considering small sizes apartment “extension”, they strive to do it themselves. One of the most pressing questions is usually how to level the floor on the balcony, since this part of the room, especially in Khrushchev-era buildings, initially looks deplorable and is located at different levels with the floors of the apartment. You will learn how to level a balcony floor, from classic cement screed to technologies that have appeared recently, by reading the article.

Floor leveling methods

On the loggia, which is glazed and effectively insulated from external environment, the same methods for preparing the subfloor as inside the apartment are applicable, namely:

• cement-sand (concrete) screed;
• pouring and leveling mortars prepared from ready-made building mixtures;
• options for floor substructures on wooden logs;
• use of gypsum fiber boards (dry screed).

All these methods have disadvantages and advantages. The main advantage that unites these technologies is the ease of doing it yourself. Next, we will consider the features of each method of leveling the floor on loggias and balconies, which are applicable in “Khrushchev” and new buildings.

Methods for determining floor level

Before leveling the floor, it is necessary to determine in advance its future level and affix the appropriate marks. There are three main measurement methods that are most popular.

Water level. Two people are required to use this level. To begin with, we visually determine the future floor level minus the finishing coating and make a mark on the wall. We apply one water level flask to this mark so that the water level is approximately in the middle of the flask and is clearly aligned with the mark. Then the second person with the second flask goes to the opposite side of the balcony and places the second flask against the wall. Next, the second person adjusts the height of the flask so that the level in the first flask coincides with the preliminary mark on the wall. When the marks in the first flask coincide with the mark on the wall, the second person draws a mark on the opposite wall according to the level in the second flask. It is important that at this moment both flasks are open to air and that there are no air bubbles in the hose itself.

Laser level. Laser device much simpler and more accurate, it is installed at the most high point on the floor surface, turn on the laser and make marks on the wall with a pencil according to the readings of the laser beam. If the floor needs to be raised, then first draw a mark on the wall for the future floor level by eye. Then we install a laser level in the center of the room and adjust its height so that the beam coincides with the mark on the wall. Next, along the beam, we mark the height of the floor along the entire perimeter of the room.

Bubble level rarely used to measure floor level due to its large error. For this level, you will additionally need a long and even rule. The rule is laid diagonally across the balcony and a level is placed on it. According to the indications of the bubble, one of the sides of the rule is raised or lowered until the bubble shows the horizon. You can go along the wall, applying the level with one end to the starting point. In this case, the error depends on the length of the level; the longer the device, the smaller the error.

Leveling the floor on the balcony with ceramic tiles

If the original floor surface is relatively flat, then small differences can be leveled by laying tiles using tile adhesive. Cracks and chips on the concrete surface must be opened, treated with a primer and sealed with cement mortar. On the balcony it is better to use tile adhesive intended for outdoor use and resistant to frost.

Next, the entire floor surface must be cleaned of dust and coated with primer. deep penetration in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried. Next, tile adhesive is applied to the concrete base with a larger dosage than required by the technology and the tiles are laid. For smooth and beautiful installation, it is recommended to use a special tile leveling system (SVP) which is shown in the photo.

This system will allow you to lay the coating as accurately as possible and at the same time maintain the width of the seam. Before applying joint grout, the plastic elements must be knocked down with a mallet or rubber hammer for leveling. The grout must have increased moisture resistance and frost resistance if the balcony is not insulated.

Video: leveling the floor on the balcony with tiles

The difference between floor leveling on a closed and open balcony

The procedure itself for leveling floors in open and closed balconies practically no different, but there is a difference in the materials used. For example, for open and not glazed balcony materials with high strength characteristics are required, such as moisture resistance, frost resistance and resistance to temperature changes. Wooden floors on open spaces It is better not to use because the material is not durable. It is better to lay cement screed or ceramic tiles.

Important. On open balconies Only materials suitable for outdoor use should be used. It is necessary to slope the floor away from the wall to drain water or melted snow. If the outer wall of the balcony is solid, then you need to provide holes for water drainage. The floor covering should not be slippery when wet.

Screed on the balcony with cement-sand mixtures

You can level the floor on the loggia with a solution prepared using sand and cement using two technologies:

• with insulation;
• without insulation.

In closed, insulated balconies, it is advisable to insulate the floor, especially if the level of the slab relative to the floors in the apartment allows this to be done. Extruded polystyrene foam or dense foam plastic (at least 30 kg/m3) is used as a heat insulator.

If insulation is not provided, the base is poured directly onto a slab or bedding made of crushed stone or expanded clay. Let's look at each floor leveling option in more detail.

First determine the thickness thermal insulation material. To do this, from the distance between balcony slab and the level of the future floor, the thickness of the screed (for cement-sand mixtures - 4-5 cm) and the proposed floor covering is subtracted. At the specified distance, for example 14 cm, and finishing coating laminate, the thickness of the insulation will be 14-5-1=9 cm. Alternatively, you can make a leveling bedding (sand, small crushed stone, expanded clay) at 4 cm before laying polystyrene 5 cm thick.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

• bedding and its leveling according to the rule;
• laying thermal insulation boards;
• waterproofing device (a continuous polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 80 microns is sufficient);
• installation of beacons;
• filling cement-sand mortar and its alignment with beacons;
• excavating the horizontal guides (when the surface can be walked on carefully), sealing the resulting grooves and grinding the screed.

Making a subfloor without insulation

This method is used if there is already an insulated balcony (loggia) below and the leveling layer is more than 5 cm. In this case, the sequence of work processes is as follows:

• arrangement of a sprinkled layer;
• rough screed;
• waterproofing ( polyethylene film or bitumen mastic);
• installation of horizontal guides;
• filling the finishing screed.

Using cement-sand mortar, leveled along the beacons, it is created quality foundation flooring suitable for laying laminate flooring on loggias, ceramic tiles, linoleum, carpet.

To successfully level the floor on the balcony with your own hands and make a strong screed with a flat surface, use the following recommendations when working:

• to prepare the working solution, use river or washed quarry sand;
• prepare the sand/cement mixture in a ratio of 4-5:1 (when using M-400 binder);
• the thickness of the finishing screed should not exceed 5 cm;
• do not neglect installing a damper tape around the perimeter of the loggia before pouring the base of the floor, despite the fact that the area is small;
• after the solution has set, it is advisable to moisten the surface daily, especially in the hot season for better hydration and ultimate strength of the subfloor;
• as beacons with a layer thickness of 3 cm or more, use (conveniently) a guide profile (UD) or a profiled pipe with a square cross-section.

If the thickness of the leveling layer is insignificant (up to 3-4 cm), it is advisable to use ready-made packaged mixtures (levelers) for leveling.

Video: leveling the floor with liquid screed

Tools and materials for cement screed

For installation work cement-sand screed you will need:

• River sand and cement,
• Aluminum or metal beacons,
• Rule for leveling cement screed,
• Bubble level for installing beacons,
• Trowel and grater for smoothing the top layer,
• Mixer or puncher with an attachment for mixing the solution.

Important! When mixing cement at home, it is recommended to use a hammer drill or a construction mixer. Apply a regular drill It is not recommended for kneading, since a large load can damage the tool.

Installation of screed using ready-made polymer-cement mixtures

Nowadays there are several types of floor levelers on sale. In terms of composition, scope and method of application, similar products are approximately similar, regardless of who produced them. Taking into account small area balcony room, here the use of ready-made mixtures with a small screed thickness is preferable. It turns out to be only a little more expensive, but levelers are much more convenient to use due to the following features:

• the solution is prepared using a construction mixer, the mixture/water proportions are always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging;
• the resulting solution is plastic, which greatly simplifies the leveling process (the filler does not settle, so there is no need to rush);
• it is possible to form a thin layer (from 1 cm) if necessary;
• the finished surface gains operational strength faster (7-10 days);
• there is no need to maintain humidity during the maturation period of the solution.

The technology for using ready-made mixtures to level the floor is practically no different from that for cement-sand mixtures prepared by yourself. The difference is that with a small fill thickness, it is enough to treat the base with a primer and not waterproof it, even in Khrushchev-era buildings.

Tools and materials for self-leveling mixture

To fill the self-leveling mixture you will need:

• Ready mixture in the right quantity,
• Deep penetration primer,
• A metal or plastic needle roller for rolling out the mixture and removing air bubbles,
• Mixer for mixing the mixture,
• Brush and roller for applying primer,
• Damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room to compensate for the expansion of the self-leveling layer when drying,
• Spatula for preliminary leveling of the solution.

Important. Before applying the self-leveling mixture, it is strongly recommended to coat the surface with a waterproofing primer in several layers. The primer will prevent the cement screed from absorbing moisture from the filling mortar and ensure uniform drying.

Alignment by lags

Creating a flat surface based on a frame made of wooden blocks has many advantages, such as:

• the “dry” method, so the created base is immediately ready for further laying of flooring materials (no need to wait for setting, maturing, drying). This option is suitable for those who are looking for an option on how to level the floor on a balcony without a screed;
• It is convenient to insulate the space between the joists with your own hands, and the choice of materials for thermal insulation is much wider (in addition to polystyrene, varieties mineral wool, ecowool, polyurethane foam);
• by selecting the appropriate section of the bars, the floor easily rises to the expected level;
• installing logs does not require special skills, so any home craftsman can level the floor on the loggia in this way.

This method of creating a floor base also has disadvantages. The created surface is not suitable for laying tiles. The durability of the logs directly depends on the quality of the wood, which is sometimes low. In addition, the lumber must be well dried and impregnated with protective compounds. These are additional time and material costs.

The method, among other things, is good because lags can be used as cladding various materials, such as:

• floor board;
• chipboard and OSB boards;
• plywood.

Recently, preference has been given to OSB boards and plywood, as they are a universal base for laying most finishing flooring materials. You can even lay tiles on some types of OSB. Creation technology plywood base Look at the flooring on the loggia along the joists in the video story.

Tools and materials for floor joists

Leveling the floor with joists is recommended only on closed balconies and loggias. The method allows you to reduce the load on the slab, significantly increase the height of the floor and efficiently insulate the balcony. To fill dry screed you will need:

• Wooden blocks 50x50 mm,
• Waterproofing film,
• Insulating material if required
• Dowels for attaching the joist to the base,
• Wood screws,
• Material for finishing base.

Video - how to level the floor on a balcony along the joists

Important! When using varieties of mineral wool as a thermal insulation material, double-sided waterproofing of the insulation is required. A special film is used that allows steam to pass through while retaining condensed moisture. This rule is true not only for loggias and balconies, but also covered terraces, other premises.

Dry screed

The recently developed technology of laying a subfloor using gypsum fiber boards is increasingly becoming the choice when it is necessary to level the surface for laying finishing flooring materials. The essence of the technique is as follows:

• along the exposed horizontal guides, a flat surface is arranged from fine (fraction 1-5 mm) expanded clay;
• the guides are removed, gypsum fiber boards are laid on the bedding, joining with specially made grooves;
• joining occurs using glue, after which the locks are additionally tightened with self-tapping screws.

The end result is dry level base, suitable for laying most floor materials (carpet, laminate, linoleum). The advantages of the technology are:

• the work is done quickly, it is easy to do it yourself;
• the surface is durable, ready for further installation of finishing materials immediately after assembly;
• The use of expanded clay as a bedding gives a good soundproofing effect and insulation.

However, gypsum fiber board is not resistant to moisture, which imposes restrictions on the installation of dry screed in some rooms, such as:

• bathroom;
• kitchen;
• insufficiently isolated from external influences loggias, terraces, balconies.

Tools and materials for dry screed

To lay dry screed on the balcony you will need:

• Dry mixture for screed (slag or expanded clay),
• Edge tape for installation around the perimeter of the room,
• Film to ensure waterproofing of the screed from the bottom,
• U-shaped profiles as beacons,
• Rule for leveling the mixture along the beacons.

Video: laying dry screed on the floor

The final choice of the appropriate flooring technology will depend on specific conditions and individual preferences.

Summary table of floor leveling methods by rating

Material	Price	Installation time	pros	Minuses	Rating
Concrete screed	From 2 to 5 thousand rubles/m2 (without materials).	Complete drying time is from 30 to 45 days.	Long service life, high strength, environmental friendliness, ease of maintenance, versatility, beautiful design.	Heavy weight, dirty and wet processes, likelihood of shrinkage, long drying time, high thermal conductivity.	6 out of 10
Self-leveling floors	From 1.5 to 8.5 thousand rubles/m2 (price depends on the type of self-leveling floor).	Complete drying time up to 7 days	Seamless surface, versatility, aesthetics, wear resistance, impact resistance, maintainability, environmental friendliness, moisture resistance, durability, fast curing speed,	Labor-intensive process of preparing the base floor, vapor permeability, mandatory floor insulation, high cost.	10 of 10
Semi-dry screed	About 450 rub./m2.	In one day up to 250 m2.	Small volume of water, leakage is eliminated, a perfectly flat surface is achieved, shrinkage is eliminated, cracks are eliminated, resistance to mechanical stress, light weight, after 12 hours, put into operation, dust and dirt are eliminated.	The need to use special equipment, it is afraid of moisture, due to poor-quality sealing, partial destruction is possible.	9 out of 10
Dry screed	Around 500–900 rubles/m2.	Installation is possible in 2 days (depending on the quality of the base).	Light screed weight, minimal labor costs, possibility of laying communications, floor thermal insulation, sound insulation, possibility of leveling the floor when sub-zero temperature, dust and dirt are excluded.	It is afraid of moisture, it is impossible to install heated floors, it is unstable to mechanical loads, and rodents are possible.	8 out of 10
Plywood	From 150 to 350 rubles/m2 (depending on the installation method).		You can install it yourself, quick leveling, durable and even coating, thermal insulation, sound insulation, cheap source material.	If chosen incorrectly, plywood will creak, may swell and deform due to exposure to moisture, and be sensitive to temperature changes.	6 out of 10
GVL	In the area about 1300 rubles/m2.	From 1 to 7 days (depending on the readiness of the base).	Resistance to moisture, coating density, environmental friendliness, sound insulation, thermal insulation, does not burn, does not deform when temperature fluctuates, simple installation.	High fragility of the material, high cost, cannot withstand large static loads.	5 out of 10
OSB	About 800 rub./m2.	From 1 to 7 days (depending on the readiness of the base).	High strength, low weight, elasticity of the floor, homogeneous structure, does not collapse during operation, thermal insulation, sound insulation, resistance to chemical compounds.	The presence of phenol, a harmful substance. Therefore, you need to make your choice carefully. Low resistance to moisture.	5 out of 10
Green Board panels	About 300 rub./m2.	From 1 to 7 days (depending on the readiness of the base).	Durability, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, sound insulation, structural strength.	Large weight, installation of counter-lattice, very dusty when cutting, requires a finishing coat.	7 out of 10

We hope the answer to the question of how to level the floor on a balcony is fully illuminated. The final choice of the appropriate technology for installing a floor base on a loggia or terrace with your own hands will depend on specific conditions and individual preferences. The main thing is that the methods exist, they are not complicated and effective, even if we're talking about about the balcony of the Khrushchev building.