How to properly cover a wall with plasterboard? Which tool and plating method should I choose? We will try to briefly talk about this and other things in the article, so that even a beginner has no doubt that he can do it with his own hands.
First you need to inspect the scope of work, assess the scale and select necessary method installation
As you know, the walls of private houses and apartments are made of reinforced concrete, brick and wood. Drywall can be glued to any of these surfaces or a frame can be installed. The main criteria influencing the installation method are the volume of the room and the curvature of the walls. Covering the frame with plasterboard is considered the most optimal, but here the disadvantages should also be taken into account - the area of the room with installed frame will decrease significantly (the total thickness of the skin will be more than 5 cm). Therefore, if you are planning to renovate a small room, perhaps the best option There will be a frameless fastening with an adhesive composition. If the defects and curvature of the walls do not exceed 20 mm, you can safely choose it, i.e. Glue the gypsum board with gypsum glue.
If we have more or less figured out the mounting methods, then the question regarding the tool remains open.
Tool for the job
To cover surfaces using frame technology you will need:
- The material itself is plasterboard sheets.
- Pencil, knife for cutting plaster sheets, blades.
- Tape measure, building level, preferably laser
- Metal scissors
- Dowels 6x40, 6x60.
- Galvanized profiles CD, UD.
- Perforated hangers (CD bracket)
- Grinder, drill, screwdriver.
- Metal self-tapping screws for gypsum boards
- A cutter, or self-tapping screws (bugs) for attaching profiles to each other
- Planer for smoothing edges
- Spatula and bucket, gypsum glue (if we glue plasterboard)
- Everything for finishing plasterboard seams
Surface preparation
Covering walls with plasterboard with your own hands involves not only installation, but also preparation. Before covering the surface, you need to perform several preparatory work:
- Remove old finish. Before you begin finishing, you need to remove all previous layers from the walls to the base.
- Treat the walls. This procedure is not considered mandatory. However, experts recommend priming the walls and treating them with a special antiseptic.
- Make preliminary markings. Mark boundaries above the floor and below the ceiling where the slabs will begin and end. Usually a distance of 5 cm is maintained.
Methods of fastening gypsum boards: advantages and disadvantages
As mentioned earlier, there are only two ways to cover walls with plasterboard: gluing and mounting the slabs on a metal or wooden frame. To better understand which method is better to choose, let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
Frame method
The advantages of installing on a galvanized frame include: mechanical strength and reliability of the finished structure, the possibility of installation soundproofing material, installation of the material even on the most uneven surface. In addition, the structure installed on the frame can support the heavy weight of the tiles. Therefore, this option can be used in the kitchen or bathroom.
The method of installation on a wooden frame has the same advantages as the method of installing gypsum boards on metal carcass. The only thing worth considering is that wood does not tolerate moisture well, so this installation method is not suitable for rooms with high humidity.
The disadvantages of the frame installation method include additional financial costs for the necessary fasteners and the complexity of installation.
Frameless method
Cladding gypsum board walls using a frameless method is a little simpler. It will not take away useful centimeters of your room and will not force you to shell out a tidy sum for repairs, but it will be less durable compared to frame technology. The disadvantages of this method include the impossibility of laying soundproofing material.
Technology for installing sheets on galvanized profiles
To assemble the frame, we take a galvanized profile. We run a UD profile along the floor and ceiling, which we fix with 6x40 dowels. After securing the starting profiles, we proceed to the installation of vertical jumpers (CD profile). The edges of the profile should face the wall, the wide side should face the room.
The profile is cut to the required size using metal scissors or a grinder.
We secure the profile with self-tapping screws specially designed for galvanized profiles. We attach the first main profile near the side wall, the next ones in increments of 60 cm. We set the distance from the center of the profiles, and not from their edges. We fasten the profile closely under the next surface, regardless of the distance between this and the previous profile.
To enhance fixation, it is recommended to use perforated hangers. The products externally look like galvanized strips with perforated ends. We give these clamps the shape of the letter “P” and fix them with the middles to the wall under each vertical profile. At the edges of the perforated hangers there are so-called “ears”. We screw them to the profile and check the evenness of all elements with a building level.
Sound and heat insulating material is laid between the wall and the plasterboard sheet. Special mineral wool for gypsum board. After which, it is advisable to put a layer vapor barrier film.
If the height of the wall exceeds the height of the plasterboard sheet, you can add the missing part of the material from above or below by installing jumpers from the CD profile.
How to sheath a prepared frame
Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long. For quick and easy work, it is best to use an electric screwdriver. We tighten the screws until their heads are “recessed”. The fasteners are screwed at a distance, within 150 mm in the center of the gypsum board and around the perimeter. If one sheet is not enough, take a new sheet and cut pieces of it to the desired size.
Sealing gypsum board joints
Now you can start finishing. The technology is described in detail in the article. Using a special self-adhesive serpyanka tape, we seal the seams. We fill the tape with a special fugen putty from knauf. For finishing touch it is worth deciding what material will be used for finishing coating. For example, if you are laying tiles or other fairly dense material, you can simply caulk the seams and start laying the tiles. If wallpaper is glued to the surface or simply painted, then we coat the seams and screw holes several times.
We sand the surface with sandpaper and treat it with a primer. If the sheets will be painted in the future, the surface must be perfectly flat.
Frameless sheet installation technology
The first stage is priming the surface. We prime and wait for it to dry completely.
The next step will be preparing the adhesive solution. IN clean water add Perflix, mix, achieve the thickness of the solution we need. It is advisable to mix it thicker so that it does not flow down with the drywall. I will warn you right away that the glue dries quickly, so you need to work with it quickly.
A sheet of drywall can be easily cut with a knife and then broken off. The edges remain torn; here we will need a drywall plane.
Apply glue only to the back surface of the sheet that has been cleared of dust and debris. In the center and edges of the gypsum board glue is applied in dollops of the desired thickness. They are made at a distance of 25 cm. If you need to glue a whole sheet, then you can apply the buns to the wall.
We apply the plasterboard sheet to the base and press it evenly. For better fixation, you can use a rubber hammer. We apply a block of wood to the sheet and hit it with a hammer. You cannot hit the gypsum board itself with a rubber hammer, otherwise you may punch holes in the material.
Only after the glue has completely dried can you begin to seal the seams. The seams are sealed using the same principle as when installing on a profile.
Finally
Sheathing with plasterboard will not cause you much trouble if all stages are performed sequentially.
- It is necessary to prepare the walls (clean them of old coating, dust, dirt, treat them with a primer).
- Select the method of securing the material (frame, frameless).
- Purchase the necessary equipment.
- Secure the plasterboard sheets.
- Seal the seams with special tape, putty, treat uneven surfaces sandpaper and prime.
Drywall occupies a leading position among the materials used for rough finishing of walls. This is not surprising - large and even sheets help to eliminate and mask surface defects in the shortest possible time, which makes repairs quick and simple. The material also has good sound and heat insulation properties, and this is an important factor when renovating an apartment in our country, because most of the housing stock has obvious shortcomings in these matters.
Finishing walls with plasterboard has a number of nuances that need to be dealt with before starting repairs, so our material today is intended to shed light on them and talk about how to cover walls with plasterboard quickly and efficiently.
The success of the repair largely depends on the actions preceding the main work, and therefore it is worth recalling the key steps in preparing the material, wall surfaces and tools.
Material calculation
Quantity required drywall It is calculated quite simply - you need to calculate the total surface area of the walls, subtract the area of windows and doors from it, and then divide by the area of one sheet of drywall. We will need some reserve, and therefore multiply the result by a factor of 1.2, if we're talking about about a standard Russian room measuring 10-20 sq.m. If the room is larger, then the safety factor can be reduced, if smaller, it can be increased.
If plasterboard is used to improve the insulating properties of a wall, then it makes sense to sheathe it in two layers, in which case the amount of material required doubles. The same rule applies to partitions, because they will have to be sheathed on both sides. A standard sheet of plasterboard has a length of 2.5 - 3 m and a width of 1.2 m, but you can find or order options that are more suitable for you
Necessary tool
Kit necessary tools for cladding gypsum board walls depends on the method by which installation will be carried out. If you decide to finish the walls with plasterboard yourself using a frameless method, then you will need:
- The material itself;
- Dry gypsum mixture and a container in which you can dilute it;
- Knife, preferably a painter's knife;
- Jigsaw;
- Rubber hammer;
- Tape measure, fishing line and level.
If you plan to install drywall on the frame, then you will additionally need a number of metal structures and electrical appliances:
- Profiles and metal hangers;
- Screws, dowels, self-tapping screws;
- Hammer drill or grinder;
- Screwdriver.
Surface preparation
Before you begin attaching drywall to the wall, these walls must be put in order. The service life of drywall will directly depend on how carefully you carried out preparatory work, so don’t ignore this stage. Otherwise, the sheets may not adhere sufficiently to the wall, and there is every chance of mold or other bacterial growth forming in the gaps, so the walls must first be cleaned of traces of the previous finish and any contaminants. 
If your walls have several layers of plaster applied at different times, they must be removed, otherwise it will inevitably begin to fall off over time and sheets of drywall will fall off along with it.
If, after removing the plaster, defects in the form of cracks and chips are discovered, they must be repaired. After this, the walls should be primed with the composition deep penetration and let it dry according to the instructions on the package. You should cover the walls with plasterboard yourself after the surface has completely dried!
Technology of wall covering with plasterboard
Using a frame
This technology for installing plasterboard on walls is based on the use of galvanized steel profiles. Previously, a similar method was also implemented based on wooden sheathing, but today its use in heated rooms is not relevant - thermal effect negatively affects the tree and after a few years cracks appear on it.
We have already cleaned the walls, all that remains is to protect the electrical wiring and pipes using grooves and crossbars. Then we need to mark the wall, which will be used as a guide. We place marks on the floor and ceiling, retreating from the wall about 4 cm, after which we stretch a rope between them and check the horizontality with a building level.
In accordance with the marks, the guides should be secured, after which the profiles are installed in vertical plane. The profile should be screwed using dowels in increments of 30-40 cm, remember that careful adherence to the markings guarantees a high-quality result. Vertical guides are mounted with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
After we have prepared our frame, it is time to cover the walls with plasterboard with our own hands. Metal screws are used as fasteners for drywall, the sheets are laid in a joint. Self-tapping screws should penetrate the surface of the sheet by 1-2 millimeters, but not push through it.
After fixing the plasterboard in the profile, you need to treat the joints, screw holes and unevenness with putty. Having completed this part of the work, we completely cover the wall with primer mixture and wait for it to dry. After this, the walls are finally ready for front finishing.
Frameless method
This method of attaching drywall to the wall is somewhat simpler to implement, but it has a number of flaws, the main one of which is the requirement for the initial evenness of the walls. Just as in the previous version, first we prepare our walls - we clean and level, putty and prime. Brick walls that have recesses at the joint must be carefully brought into an even appearance.
Now we must decide which side to attach the drywall to the wall - installation is carried out inside with the back side on which the markings are applied. Next, the adhesive solution is applied according to the diagram below on the sheet of material. The glue dries quickly, so be careful when performing such work.
The attached sheet is leveled using a level and supported until the glue has completely dried. When preparing the glue, do not neglect the instructions and prepare it immediately before installing the sheets. If you follow all the recommendations on how to properly attach drywall to a wall with glue, then no problems should arise.
Next, the remaining sheets are installed, followed by puttying and priming, as in the frame method. We have answered the popular question of whether it is possible to attach drywall directly to the wall, but remember that for use this method you must initially have enough smooth walls. But you can save precious space that would otherwise be spent on the frame.
Pros and cons of drywall
Like any other material, drywall is not without strong and weaknesses. These products are characterized by their low cost, lightness and ease of installation, as well as good thermal insulation properties. Some types of drywall produced according to special technology, characterized by high fire and water resistance. By the way, many people believe that when it comes to which side to mount moisture resistant drywall to the wall you need to focus on the color of the side - this is not so, the side on which the groove is formed when the end is positioned at an angle is attached.
To the disadvantages finishing works based on plasterboard include high fragility of the material and poor sound insulation, although the influence of the latter aspect can be minimized using mineral wool between the wall and the sheet, or by gluing drywall to the wall polyurethane foam.
- Wall cladding with plasterboard - 1008 craftsmen per site
- 9133 reviews of repair specialists
- Wall cladding with plasterboard in Moscow from 399 rubles/sq.m
Cladding with plasterboard - quick and effective method wall decoration in the apartment, country house or office. The method is very popular. It allows you to level surfaces, hide communications, and also implement non-standard design solutions. In particular, panels can be used to create niches, projections, and openings. Laying is carried out on concrete, brick, gypsum, cement, wood.
The service is offered by experienced website specialists working in all districts of Moscow. At the negotiation stage, a work plan is drawn up, the number of necessary materials. After agreeing on the details, a contract with a detailed estimate is concluded. Installation plasterboard sheets preceded by surface preparation. Craftsmen remove the remnants of old coatings, seal cracks and dents and apply primer. GCRs are mounted in two ways. For frameless installation, special glue or polyurethane foam is used. In the second option, metal profiles are used.
The cost depends on the volume and complexity of the work, prices for raw materials. The site publishes photographs of completed projects, which simplifies the search. the best specialist. The starting price is 300 rubles per square meter.
Leveling the walls and ceiling in a plasterboard room is the best option. Drywall has a perfectly flat surface, which is special labor will replace a natural wall with corrugated plaster. Covering walls with plasterboard with your own hands not only levels the walls, but also hides all communications, insulates the room, soundproofs and makes the room cozy and beautiful. Drywall is a fragile material. Knowing this drawback, all cladding work should be carried out carefully, taking measurements and correct calculations in advance.
Sheathing process wooden frame sheets of drywall 
Recommendations for covering walls with plasterboard:
Drywall has many advantages, one of which is health safety. Therefore, covering walls with plasterboard is possible even in a children's room.
Scheme for covering walls in a room with plasterboard Drywall installation
Before you begin installing drywall, you should do several preliminary works:
- Drywall is cut according to measurements.
- The cut sheets are chamfered using a plane.
- Holes are made in places where there should be sockets and switches.
Now that the gypsum board is prepared, you can begin attaching it to the frame:
After completely covering the drywall, you can begin to finish the surface. The video shows the process of installing profiles and installing drywall.
Finishing
When starting finishing, you should act step by step, otherwise nothing will work.
Beautiful, smooth white wall completely ready for decoration. It could be wallpaper decorative plaster, dye.
Frameless method of installing drywall on walls
When using this method, it is necessary to use plasterboard with a thickness of 12 mm. In this case, the ceiling height should not exceed 3 m.
Before you begin installing drywall to the wall, you should carry out a number of preparatory work.
- Preparation of the adhesive composition. You need to pay very close attention to this point, since a lot here depends on the curvature of the wall.
If the wall is almost flat, then glue can be used in cans. A special pistol is used for it. But if the wall has big waves, then use a dry adhesive mixture. It is applied in piles, and when the sheet is pressed against the wall, the adhesive composition fills the entire space. What kind of glue should I use? frameless method? You also need to take into account the type of wall (concrete, brick, wood, adobe, clay), the humidity of the room, temperature changes; - Preparing the wall surface. Here the procedure is as follows:
- Preparing drywall. The wall needs to be measured. After this, calculate: first the whole sheet is glued, then there is room for a fragment from the cut sheet. For this you need a measurement. you need it this way:
After this, a chamfer is made on the cut sheets of drywall for future joints.
Instructions for making a chamfer on a sheet of drywall Gluing drywall
First, whole sheets are glued to the wall. It is best when installation starts from the center of the wall. Do not forget about the centimeters at the top and bottom - 5 cm indentation. After gluing the entire sheets, you should glue the drywall fragments. 
The installation of the sheets depends on the glue. If the glue was mixed from a dry composition, then it is applied in heaps on the sheet in increments of 25–30 cm; in this case, do not forget that such a sheet becomes very heavy and you should not lift it or mount it on the wall alone.
If the adhesive composition is liquid nails, the glue is applied in a dotted line.
An example of applying glue to a sheet of drywall Regardless of the type of glue, the sheet must be pressed against the wall and secured with a support with soft end. The level measures the evenness of the glued sheet. This must be done vertically, horizontally, diagonally. The finishing process does not differ in stages and work from the frame method.
When covering walls with plasterboard in two layers, remember that the sheets and borders should not coincide. This is the main rule, otherwise the plasterboard may crack or deform.
How much does it cost to cover walls with plasterboard? It all depends frame wall or not. The frame is metal or wood.
- The cost of covering walls with plasterboard without a frame is 215 rubles. for 1 sq. m.
- The price of covering walls with plasterboard with a metal frame is 250 rubles. 1 sq. m. (prices may vary depending on the complexity of the work).
The cost of work is given if there is no time for this work or uncertainty about the future. The craftsmen draw up an estimate with all measurements and the cost of the work.
Wall covering with plasterboard - simple and budget method leveling surfaces. In many cases, choosing it is more rational than using plaster, for example, when preparing a wooden wall for subsequent finishing. Plasterboard cladding can be carried out in short time, additional effects of its use are improved sound and heat insulation in the room.
Drywall for walls can be different; the desired one is chosen based on the conditions of the room in which they plan to carry out repair work:
- normal – suitable for rooms with normal humidity levels;
- moisture resistant – used for bathrooms and rooms with high humidity;
- fire-resistant - they are used to sheathe sections of the wall around stoves, fireplaces, chimneys;
- fire and moisture resistant - designed for finishing attics, attics, furnaces in private homes.
The minimum thickness of plasterboard for wall cladding is 12.5 mm. Thinner materials are used for other purposes: finishing the ceiling or creating three-dimensional structures.
Installation methods
There are 2 methods of fastening gypsum boards: frame and frameless.
The latter is used if the walls in the room do not have significant curvature. Frameless installation will be cheaper, since the sheathing material is attached directly to the surface requiring leveling, fixed with glue; the construction of additional sheathing is not required. Attaching plasterboard to the wall in this way is only possible if the ceiling height does not exceed 3 m.
The frame method is suitable when you need to lay insulation or communications under the sheathing. In this case, the sheathing is first placed on the wall, and only then the gypsum board is secured.
Frameless method
To decorate walls with plasterboard with your own hands you will need:
- construction level;
- set of spatulas;
- rule;
- jigsaw or sharp construction knife for sawing cladding material;
- construction grater;
- square, pencil;
- rubber mallet;
- electric drill with a special attachment for mixing the solution;
- screwdriver;
- gypsum putty;
- brush and roller for applying primer;
- primer with antifungal additives;
- serpyanka (tape for sealing gypsum board joints);
- self-tapping screws
Before covering the wall with sheets of plasterboard, it is necessary to prepare the surface.
Preparation
The old covering from the wall must be removed. If the surface is painted oil paint, and it is not possible to completely remove it, notches are made on the wall with an ax or hammer drill. This is necessary to improve adhesion.
All irregularities, recesses and cracks are filled with putty or polyurethane foam. After the solution hardens, remove excess so that nothing protrudes above the surface.
Before attaching drywall to the wall, you need to prime it and mark it. First, the surface is cleaned of dust with a broom or brush. Then one or several layers of deep penetration primer are applied, using a roller for smooth areas, and for corners and others. hard to reach places paint brush. Allow at least 2 hours between coats. You should start marking only after the wall is completely dry.
Marking
Wall cladding with plasterboard is carried out only after marking the surfaces, otherwise distortions are possible. To work you will need a level. The easiest way to work is with a laser, but a bubble one will also work.
The marking should be carried out taking into account possible deformation of the sheets: a gap of approximately 1 cm should be left between the end of the gypsum board and the floor, and 5 mm between the gypsum board and the ceiling. A control line is drawn near the ceiling; it is usually not required from below, since it is easier to form the required indentation by placing 10 mm thick plywood under the plasterboard during installation.
Using a plumb line, check the evenness of the corners of the room and draw a vertical line at the junction of the walls. Attach drywall to the walls begin from this mark.
Glue selection
The composition is selected taking into account the evenness of the surfaces.
Installation with gypsum or cement based adhesive
This is the most popular way to install drywall on walls.
Work order:
- The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
- The plasterboard is turned over to the wrong side. Apply the mortar in long broken lines along the edges of the slab around the entire perimeter. On the sheet itself, glue is applied in dots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, maintaining a distance of about 20-30 cm between them. For reliable fixation of drywall on the wall, it is necessary that at least 10% of the entire area of the slab is covered with adhesive.
- Work starts from the corner. Place 1 cm thick plywood on the floor to leave a gap. Bring the drywall to the wall to the vertical marking line, apply it, and align it relative to the line.
- Apply the rule over the stove to evenly distribute the composition. Using a building level, make sure that there are no deviations to the side. If they exist, they correct the shortcomings.
- After final drying adhesive composition Additionally, the drywall is fixed using dowels-“fungi”.
- Using a similar method, further cladding of the walls is carried out with whole sheets of gypsum plasterboard, and only after this they begin cladding the remaining narrow sections of the wall. To do this, measure open areas walls and cut out parts of the required size from the slabs.
GCR is cut with a jigsaw or knife. The edges should be made at an angle so that the joints can later be filled with putty.
Installation on polymer compounds
Cladding gypsum board walls with synthetic glue can be done in two ways - apply the composition to the slab in the same way as when using dry mixtures, or first fix the sheets on the surface with dowels, having previously leveled them, and then fill the voids between the drywall and the base with foam.
The hardening time of the glue depends on the composition.
Fixing with polyurethane foam
To cover walls with plasterboard using this method, apply foam to the edges around the perimeter of the slab and draw several lines along the main part. Immediately after applying the composition, the sheet is applied to the wall and its position is leveled.
The final hardening time is about a day. After this, the drywall will be firmly glued to the wall, and it will no longer be possible to tear off or correct its position.
For uneven surfaces They use another method - first they fix the plasterboard, and then foam the voids.
Step-by-step instructions for finishing walls with plasterboard using this method:
- The plate is fixed to the wall along the marking line. Drill holes in the wall for dowels (the gypsum boards are not removed). In total, for one sheet, for reliable fixation, you will need about 10-12 self-tapping screws, which will need to be placed evenly over the entire area.
- After drilling the holes, the sheet is set aside, then plastic dowels are inserted into the wall.
- On the wrong side of the gypsum board using double sided tape foam rubber is glued. Pieces of material should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the holes made. To determine which side should be used to attach the drywall to the wall, and which side should the foam be attached to, you should inspect the slab. There are no markings or markings on the front, and there is a slight bevel at the side edge.
- Place the sheet on the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws. The position of the sheet can be leveled by tightening the fasteners to different depths - in the place where the wall deviates, the self-tapping screw is not screwed in all the way.
- This method is used to install drywall on walls.
- Make holes in the plasterboard, placing them in the areas between the screws. Through these holes, polyurethane foam is pumped into the space between the sheet and the wall.
- After the foam has hardened (in at least a day), the screws can be recessed a couple of mm into the sheets or the fasteners can be completely unscrewed and then these areas can be puttied.
This technology of covering walls with plasterboard involves a large consumption of foam, but allows you to cope with significant curvature without installing a frame.
Frame method
To work you will need:
- metal profile;
- building level;
- drill or hammer drill;
- pendants;
- spatulas;
- construction knife or jigsaw;
- tape measure, pencil;
- metal scissors.
Covering walls with plasterboard begins with preparing the surfaces. It is believed that when frame method no finishing required old decoration and priming, but it is recommended to do it - this will increase the service life of the erected structure.
The frame can also be made from wooden slats, but this method is used less and less. Wood is susceptible to rotting and deformation, so finishing walls with plasterboard using wooden lathing is impractical.
Marking
Work order:
- A plumb line is fixed to the wall in the corner under the ceiling.
- Screw in the self-tapping screw in the place where the plumb line touches the floor. Mark all 4 walls this way.
- Stretch the thread around the entire perimeter, securing it to the screws. The resulting line is transferred to the floor and ceiling.
The minimum distance from the wall for installing the frame is 4 cm. There is no point in making it too large - the greater the distance from the base to the plasterboard partition, the less effective area premises.
Frame installation
The guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling along the marking lines using dowels. Before this, it is recommended to stick a sealing tape on the back of the profile in order to reduce the vibrations that will be transmitted by the floors to the frame.
The profile is cut using metal scissors.
The next step is to mark the lines for installing the rack profile. The racks should be placed at a distance of 60 cm, so that when facing walls with plasterboard on a metal frame, the joints of the slabs fall directly on the center of the profile. In case on plasterboard partition subsequently a high load is planned (for example, shelves, wall cabinets, a TV will be installed), then the distance is reduced to 40 cm.
By measuring the distance from the top to bottom rails and subtracting 1 cm, you get the required height of the racks. Parts of the required length are cut from the profile. Place it first into the lower guide, then into the upper, positioning it in accordance with the markings. The racks are attached to the wall using hangers.
Before covering the wall with plasterboard, insulation is laid, if necessary.
Installation of gypsum boards
Proceed to installing the sheets on the frame. The cladding begins with whole slabs, placing them in a checkerboard pattern: the solid sheet is secured first, aligning it along the bottom guide. The next sheet is mounted on the ceiling rail. This technique makes the structure stronger.
Self-tapping screws are used to attach drywall to the wall on a profile. Screw them in, setting the minimum number of turns on the screwdriver, otherwise the sheet may be damaged.
The total number of fasteners per 1 sheet is at least 45. 5 screws are screwed into the short side of the gypsum board, the rest are distributed along the long sides and the center of the slab. The fastener head should be recessed into the sheet by 1 mm. Do not tighten the screws too much.
When they finish covering the walls with plasterboard with their own hands, they move on to finishing the constructed structure.
Finishing
On final stage Grout the joints of the slabs. The method is selected taking into account what decorative finishing will be used later.
When using elastic materials (plastic tiles, non-woven or photo wallpaper with a PVC base), chamfer both edges at an angle of 22.5 °, then the angle of the resulting groove will be 45 °. After this, fill the groove starting putty based on gypsum.
For finishing plasterboard walls With other materials, seams are processed differently. Cut the edge at an angle of 45° so that the angle formed between the plates is 90°. To fill the grooves, use adhesive putty. It is applied generously, then rubbed, and the serpyanka is immediately applied on top, pressing it into the solution. After hardening, the composition is rubbed, forming an even plane.
Having learned how to properly cover walls with plasterboard yourself, you can begin repair work. If you adhere to the work technology in the process, the finished structure will be stable and durable.
Finishing walls with plasterboard in a wooden house
Everyone chooses for themselves... the house in which they will live. Someone is building a house out of concrete blocks, despite the horror stories told about concrete structures, someone prefers a house made of brick, while others prefer building from eco-friendly wood without fear of fire.
Fire hazard is perhaps the most serious and severe drawback wooden houses, with all its advantages. And although Construction Materials are treated with fire retardants, they partially solve the problem.
Another disadvantage is the instability of the walls due to fluctuations in humidity in the wood. Particularly unstable new house. It will be several years before new building will settle down, all the logs (beams) will fall into place.
Advantages of finishing walls with plasterboard
GKL is a favorable material for building finishing. Can be sheathed interior partitions plasterboard not only in wooden house, arrange exclusive dropped ceilings in several tiers, create niches or shelves.
The manufacturer offers several brands of gypsum boards:
- GKL - standard;
- VGKL - waterproof;
- OGKL - fire-resistant;
- OVGKL is waterproof and fire resistant at the same time. This drywall is more expensive than standard, but will also last much longer. He's not afraid high humidity, and will not ignite from the slightest spark.
For finishing inside the house, it is advisable to use the last two brands of gypsum plasterboard. For installation in toilets and bathrooms (shower rooms) would be better suited waterproof plasterboard sheet.
It is necessary to say a few words about the advantages of covering wooden walls with plasterboard:
- With this finishing, you get perfectly smooth surfaces that can be puttyed, painted, covered with any type of wallpaper, and even ceramic tiles can be glued onto them.
- Provide some thermal and noise insulation.
- Relatively low price of material and work process.
GKL boards are easy to work with. They are freely cut with a jigsaw, which allows you to cut out any shapes (for ceilings), any sizes of slabs for wall cladding. You can work with plasterboard yourself, without the involvement of specialists.
Finishing rules
Inside the house, wooden walls can be protected with fire-resistant gypsum board sheathing. Finishing the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house will even out the unevenness of the log or paving stones and give it an ideal look. Heat and waterproofing materials, electrical wiring is located.
But before we start covering a log or cobblestone wall, we need to take into account several nuances.
The first nuance
Wood, unlike brick or concrete, is living, organic material. The tree breathes. In conditions of high humidity, it is capable of absorbing moisture, and in conditions of low humidity, it releases water into the atmosphere.
Poor people buy raw wood in the hope of drying it themselves. It costs less than dry. Building a house from raw wood creates some problems, since during the drying process the wood decreases in size and sometimes warps. As a result, in wooden wall cracks form.
Pre-purchased material should not be placed on damp earth. It is necessary to place unnecessary boards, beams, and pallets under it. Provide a canopy. Between the logs (beams) you should lay bars 4–5 cm high so that air circulates between them. This way you will ensure ventilation and natural drying.
Ideally, construction of a house will begin in late spring - early summer. Warm air And Sun rays will speed up the drying of the wood. Do not rush to caulk and cover the walls with plasterboard. The building should be open for at least another month to dry out a little. After this time has passed after the walls have been erected, all cracks should be caulked, that is, soft plastic material should be hammered into the cracks between the logs. It could be:
- Dry moss - in Rus', walls have long been caulked with dry moss;
- Tow is a fibrous material used by plumbers for waterproofing;
- Jute is a material made from jute wood;
- Sealant is a synthetic foam material.
All these materials do not allow moisture to pass through or accumulate and fill cracks well.
Second nuance
Wood is a flammable material. And dry wood - even more so. And in order to make it more difficult to ignite, it is necessary to treat the masonry inside and outside with fire retardants - anti-flammable agents. But this is not enough.
To protect your home from fire, it is important to install the electrical wiring correctly. After all, a short circuit is possible in it. Finally, contact overheating when high load on the electrical network can also cause a fire. Electrical wiring is laid in plastic (metal) boxes from the outside. In this case, the boxes must be of high quality and non-flammable. It is possible to lay wires between the wall and plasterboard sheathing. The best option protection of wires in this case - laying them in metal sleeves. We install the electrical wiring at the same time as installing the frame under the drywall.
Protection against fungi and other microorganisms is necessary. After fire retardants, the walls are treated with antiseptics.
Third nuance
This point is directly related to covering walls with plasterboard in a wooden house. The fact is that fresh wood, especially if poorly dried for some time, will shrink. It's connected:
- with loss of moisture from the tree;
- With the landing of logs or beams in place, their compaction among themselves under the influence of the weight of overlying logs and the roofing superstructure.
The landing of the house can be 10–15 cm per floor.
It was mentioned above that wood breathes, either absorbing moisture or losing it. This factor also affects the unstable behavior of the walls. Some tree species are prone to warping, especially with high humidity or sudden temperature changes. And if plasterboard sheets are firmly attached to such a wall, they will quickly begin to crack, change their location, and become deformed. To avoid this, a so-called sliding or floating frame was developed. The essence of it is that it does not move along load-bearing walls Houses. Plasterboard sheets are attached to this frame.
Frame arrangement
It is no coincidence that the frame is called sliding. It is designed in such a way that shrinkage of the external walls does not affect or displace interior lining. You will learn about the intricacies of installing such a frame below.
Metal carcass
The metal frame consists of the following elements:
The following tools are required for work.
- Roulette,
- Level,
- Screwdriver,
- Grinder for cutting profiles,
- Step ladder,
- Pencil or marker.
First, a horizontal guide profile is attached to the floor. Then areas for installing vertical posts are marked. They are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm from each other, so that every second (third) rack falls on the joint of the drywall sheets. The length of the racks should be 10–12 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling. It is advisable to choose the thickness of the profiles for the racks at least 0.6 mm.
Next, take each rack, mark the attachment points on it so that they do not fall between the logs (beams) of the wall, and so that there are no gaps or cracks at the attachment point. From the marking down, use a grinder to cut a groove, the length of which should be 10 cm and the width about 5 mm (slightly larger than the diameter of the screw).
The cut is made in such a way that the marking point is approximately in the middle of the cut. The edges of the groove should be smooth and even. Therefore, they must be cleaned with sandpaper. There should be at least 3-4 marking points, and accordingly, grooves on each rack. All racks and their installation locations must be numbered.
Where the racks are not tightly adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to secure stops made of plywood or pieces of timber at the fastening points so that all the risers are in the same plane. Simple self-tapping screws can be used as stops. Now that the marking is completed, all the racks are marked and numbered, you can begin to install them.
The racks are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws with washers, which are screwed into the upper part of the groove, with an indentation of 1 cm. The self-tapping screw should hold the racks tightly, but you should not tighten them all the way; the washer under the screw head should turn.
Next stage. The same U-shaped profiles are attached to these racks, but inverted towards the first ones. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws on the side. Stiffening ribs are laid across the wall. Thus, the metal frame for covering the walls with plasterboard is ready.
There is another way to install a frame under drywall. It is suitable for log walls, walls with large irregularities.
Wooden frame
A wooden frame is easier to install, but is not as stable as a metal frame. It can only be arranged in a well-maintained house. All beams for a wooden frame must be dry and treated, like the walls, with a fire retardant and antiseptic.
Wooden beams are attached in the same way as metal ones. Through eyes are cut into the beams. The hole for the self-tapping screws must be countersunk so that the head of the screw is recessed and does not protrude above the beam.
Plasterboard wall covering
When starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to take into account some features of the cladding. Before covering the walls with plasterboard, it is recommended to first make the ceiling. To finish the ceiling, soft hangers and rods should be used.
Do not tightly join the wall and ceiling slabs. It is recommended to leave a gap of several centimeters between them. This gap is closed with a cornice. The drywall below should also not fit tightly to the floor. It is located one to two centimeters higher. This gap will be covered by a baseboard. The plinth and cornice are attached to horizontal surfaces.
When installing drywall, it is also recommended to leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This gap is glued with sickle tape and hidden under putty. When the walls move, this clearance will prevent cracks from appearing. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–35 centimeters from each other. The screw heads are slightly recessed into the sheet. Then they will be sealed with putty.
The use of a frame structure allows for vapor and heat insulation of walls using a special vapor barrier film and mineral wool.
Conclusion
It is advisable to maintain the constructed house without finishing for a year. During this year, you will have time to put the roof in order, install gas and water supply, install heating, without which there is no point in starting wall cladding. Since the heat inside the house will significantly affect the drying process of the wood and the behavior of the walls. But even if the house has stood, it is recommended to finish the walls on a floating frame, since minor, invisible deformation of the walls will still occur for several more years.
Before you start finishing It is recommended to prime walls covered with plasterboard. Then the putty and other materials will adhere better.
Perhaps readers have their own subtleties and tricks for arranging a frame for gypsum boards; someone will decide that the described methods are not effective and stable enough. We invite readers to speak out on this topic and ask questions.
