For some families, a wall becomes the only way out. Children are growing up, and only a few can buy new housing. How to make separate rooms for children from? Don't put a wall in the middle of the apartment. The solution will be with your own hands, step-by-step instruction the manufacture of which will be discussed in today’s article. Let's try to understand how difficult it is to do such work on your own: from selection to finishing. Let's figure out how to install electrical wiring in the partitions and ensure sound insulation so that the room becomes complete.
We have already talked about dividing the room into two parts. However, a partition will be necessary in other cases. It could be similar, made according to the same principle, or perhaps decorative from plasterboard for decorating a woman’s boudoir. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of gypsum plasterboard partitions.
Positive and negative qualities of plasterboard walls
Installation of plasterboard partitions is so simple that you can do the job House master without such experience. You just need to know some of the nuances, which we will try to highlight today. Among the advantages of working with such material, in addition to ease of installation, one can note the low cost of time and money. GCR is not expensive, except famous brands. Allows you to implement many of the most bold ideas, it can be bent if necessary. For example, when installing interior partitions, a plasterboard doorway can be made in the shape of an arch or traditional.
The disadvantage of the material can be considered its susceptibility to mechanical damage. It is easy to break when hit. Also, the soundproofing qualities leave much to be desired. To ensure them, it will be necessary to produce additional work. One should not hope that massive objects will be available later. To ensure such installation it is necessary to lay in in the right places stiffening ribs that strengthen the structure.
Important information! When installing partitions, you should not rely on the room being dry. At any moment, the neighbors above can flood, which will lead to quite unpleasant consequences And unnecessary costs. It is better to purchase more expensive moisture-resistant material. This will not completely eliminate its swelling, but it will significantly reduce the damage.
What material is required to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands?
A gypsum plasterboard partition consists of a frame, which provides the main strength, and plasterboard sheathing. The frame is made of metal profiles, wooden blocks or a combination of both materials. Dowel-nails are also used to attach guides to, and and, with which jumpers and gypsum boards are attached to them.
Drywall sheets can be divided into types:
- Standard – grey colour, blue markings. The most common material. It is divided into (a little thinner and stiffer) and wall;
- Moisture resistant – green color, blue markings. You should not think that it is not at all afraid of moisture; nevertheless, gypsum is hygroscopic, but more resistant to dampness;
- Refractory – pink color, red marking. and high temperatures.
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GVL, GKLV and other types, their characteristics, sizes and areas of application - we will talk about all this in detail in this publication. We’ll also look at how gypsum fiber boards and gypsum boards differ and for what work it’s best to use each option.
Optimal thickness of plasterboard partitions
The thickness of the gypsum board for the interior partition depends on the purpose of the wall. If this is a decorative false wall, the minimum sheet thickness will be 12.5 mm. If you are planning a full-fledged partition, in which installation or various souvenirs are possible, then some calculations will be required:
- If the load is 40÷50 kg/m², you need a sheet with a thickness of at least 15 mm;
- Over 70 kg/m² involves the use of double sheets and reinforcement of the frame structure.
When sheathing the frame, you should not make joints between plasterboard sheets of opposite walls at the same level. This will lead to weakening of the structure and the appearance of cracks at the seams. But the choice of gypsum boards is not the most important thing in such an installation. Before you make a plasterboard partition in a room, you should understand which metal profile to choose for certain purposes.
Main types of partitions: features and markings
| Image | Construction type | Options | Some characteristics |
 | S111 | The weight of 1 m³ is 28 kg, the recommended height is up to 8 m | A single frame made of galvanized steel profile, which is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in one layer. Inside is filled in the form mineral wool. Used as partitions in rooms with low requirements for sound insulation and fire resistance. The thickness of the partition depends on the size of the profile and gypsum board. |
 | S112 | Weight 1 m³ – 53 kg, height 4÷9 m | Single metal carcass with two-layer gypsum board sheathing on both sides. Filler – mineral wool. The design provides high sound insulation characteristics and fire resistance (up to 1.25 hours). It is used for redevelopment or capital construction. |
 | S113 | Height up to 9.5 m. Weight 1m³ – 78 kg | The single frame is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in three layers. By increasing the number of gypsum plasterboard layers, sound insulation increases. |
 | S115.1 | Height – 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ – 57 kg | Double frame covered with gypsum board in two layers. Along with strength, it has excellent fire resistance. |
| S115.2 | Weight 1 m³ – 69 kg. Height up to 9 m | In addition to the two-layer sheathing, the double frame is separated by an additional sheet of plasterboard (spaced frame). Due to this, strength and thermal insulation properties increase. Mineral wool slabs are laid inside. | |
 | S116 | Height 4.5 – 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ – 61 kg. Minimum partition thickness 220 mm | A double metal frame covered with two layers of plasterboard is convenient for... Fire resistance - 1.25 hours. Sound insulation up to 50 dB. |
 | S118 | Weight 1 m³ - 86 kg. Height up to 9 m | Partition class “Protection of premises from penetration”. Made according to type C113 with a single metal frame covered with a three-layer plasterboard covering. A special feature of the product is galvanized steel sheets, 0.5 mm thick, inserted between the gypsum boards, which significantly increases the strength and fire resistance of the structure. Most optimal for creating a plasterboard partition with a door in a warehouse. |
 | S121 | Weight 1 m³ – 32 kg. Height up to 3.1 m | The frame is made of wood with a moisture content of 12% and sheathed on both sides with one layer of plasterboard. |
 | S122 | Weight of 1 m³ – about 57 kg. Height up to 3.1 m | Two-layer “upholstery” of the gypsum board wooden frame. The insulating material of the partition is mineral fiber boards. Advantages: high strength and good sound insulation. |
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What materials can be used for manufacturing, how to choose the shape of the partition and expert advice on its installation - read all this and much more in this material.
Types of profiles for gypsum plasterboard partitions
To assemble a frame for an interior partition made of plasterboard, you will need three types of profiles - racks, guides (main) and lintels.
Guides – U-shaped profile with standard sizes width – 5; 6.5; 7.5 and 10 cm. Height - 4 or 4.5 cm. The main (guide) profiles are attached to the ceiling and walls, giving the structure stability. Marking – PN or UW.
Rack elements are marked as PS or CW. The dimensions in height and width are identical, because they must be inserted into one another. But the length of the rack profiles is more varied. If the guides are produced in lengths of 3 m, then the rack-mount ones can also be 3.5 or 4 m. The reason for this is that the racks cannot be increased - this harms the strength of the frame structure.
Jumpers are made independently from any type of profile and serve to increase the strength of the frame. Typically, scraps left over from rack or main elements are used. The method of bending (internal or external) depends on the wishes of the master, but the internal one is more durable.
Methods for soundproofing walls made of gypsum plasterboard
The most common method of soundproofing (as well as) gypsum plasterboard walls is to lay mineral wool or foam plastic between the skins. The denser and thicker this layer is, the better the wall or sound.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard partitions: step-by-step instructions for the main stages
Installation of a gypsum plasterboard wall is carried out in several stages. But first you need to figure out which one you might need for the job.
First, one side is sewn up, and after filling the voids with mineral wool, the other Partition installation tool
In addition to the main tool (perforator, drill, etc.), you will need a plasterboard knife. It can be used to cut out parts the right size. This is done as follows. Having marked the sheet, we apply a metal profile and run the knife along the strip several times, cutting through the surface as deeply as possible. We break the remaining part. It's not difficult; even a schoolboy can do the job. The cut is leveled with a gypsum board plane or the same knife so that the joint is as even as possible.
Need to know! There is no need to adjust the slabs perfectly, because all imperfections will be covered with putty during finishing. But before you make a plasterboard wall, you should practice on an unnecessary section.
Calculation of consumables for constructing a gypsum board wall
Calculate required amount GCR is not difficult. It depends on the layers of the wall, and we will not dwell on it. But calculate the carrier profile more difficult. Calculations are made using the formula Q = (P/0.6 + 4) × K , if the wall is less than 3 m high, and Q = ((P/0.6 + 4) × H/3) + P×K , if the wall height is more than 3 m, where:
- Q – number of supporting profile;
- K – waste coefficient;
- P – perimeter of the room;
- 0,6 – the value of the strut spacing in meters;
- 4 – the number of racks indicated in pieces that must be installed in the corners of the room.
However, load-bearing elements of the frame also remain. We carry out calculations as follows. We divide the perimeter of the future wall by 3 (the height of one profile), and then multiply it by the overexpenditure coefficient. It is different for different areas, and is 1.075 for an area over 20 m2, 1.175 for an area from 10 to 20 m2 and 1.275 if an area is less than 10 m2.
Frame installation: let's start work
First, we will analyze the stages of work on how to make a partition from plasterboard, superficially, and then we will try to understand the whole technology using photo examples in detailed step-by-step instructions. First of all, using laser level, we mark the locations of the main profiles - they are the basis of the future wall. In addition to fastening with dowel nails to the walls and ceiling, we fix the profiles together with a special punch or self-tapping screws.
Having completed this work, we move on to the racks. If it is planned, then we install it in rack-mount profiles around it wooden blocks- they will add strength to the structure.
Good to know! If the wall is small, then you can do without horizontal crossbars. If the dimensions are large, then jumpers will have to be installed.
Before making a partition in a room, cutouts are made in the main profiles to lay the wiring, into which it is pulled. After the main frame is assembled, one side of the partition is closed. In this case, drywall is attached over the entire area, not excluding the future doorway. It's much easier to cut it out later.
Having closed one side of the wall on which sockets and switches will be installed and cutting through the doorway, we install glasses under the electrical fittings, stretch cables through them and fill the free space with mineral wool, which will provide noise and heat insulation. All that remains is to close the wall on the back side of the gypsum board and cut through the doorway again.
Now let's look at how to install a plasterboard wall with your own hands in step-by-step instructions with photo examples.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a gypsum board partition with your own hands
| Illustration | Action to be performed |
 | First, measure the length of the main profiles and cut them to the required length. To do this, you can use metal scissors or a grinder. When working with an angle grinder, do not forget about safety glasses. |
 | Holes are cut in the lower profile for pulling cables (in our case they pass under the floor). |
 | The main profile is laid according to pre-made markings and attached to the floor. The cables are pulled into the prepared holes. |
 | The same actions are performed with the upper profile and with the guides along the walls. |
 | This is how the main profile is attached if there is a doorway directly next to the wall. |
 | We install a wooden block in the profile along the door jamb, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. It will add strength to the structure and door hinges. |
 | The profiles are fastened together using self-tapping screws or special device- breakdown. |
 | Be sure to use a mounting level to check the position of each rack and guide. This will give you confidence that the wall will be level, without tilting. |
 | We begin to sew up the gypsum board frame, along with the doorway. This is much more convenient than attaching sheets in pieces |
 | Coat all seams of the first layer with putty and level them. This will provide better heat and noise insulation. |
 | Let's start cutting the door. Here it will not be possible to break the sheet, and therefore you will have to cut it completely, to the full thickness. In our case it is 12.5 mm. |
 | We proceed to fastening the second layer of drywall. This time the sheets are shifted by 60 cm, covering the first seam. |
 | Having covered one side in 2 layers, mark the location of the sockets and drill them out using a wood crown... |
 | ...after which we mount the glasses and route the cables into them. |
 | On the reverse side we begin laying the insulation – mineral wool. It fills all free space. |
 | The final result of insulation looks like this. All that remains is to close the second side of the wall. |
 | Having completed this work and again cutting through the doorway, we get the following picture. But we still have one more blank wall left uninstalled. |
 | Similarly, we assemble a frame from a metal profile... |
 | ...and cover it with plasterboard. All joints should be as smooth and neat as possible. |
 | Lastly, we will close the ends of the metal profile, after which we can begin finishing the mounted wall. |
How to bend gypsum boards to install an arched passage
This work is quite simple to do. We cut the strip to size and, placing it on the floor, using a knife and ruler, make transverse cuts every centimeter along the entire length. After these steps, the strip will easily bend and position itself as needed. It becomes clear that the question of how to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands is not so complicated.
They have become an integral part of planning and redevelopment interior spaces, be it a house, apartment, office or something else. They are light in weight, easy to install, and do not create additional load for load-bearing walls and beams, and you can create partitions of any shape and design. In general, this type of structure has a lot of advantages.
Maybe you need to break one large room into two or simply select a separate zone in it. Or maybe you want to move the doorway or fence off the room from. Probably in office space it was necessary to isolate some of the employees. In any of these cases, it won’t hurt you to know how to build a plasterboard partition with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard partition - preparation for work
First you need to decide on the desired thickness of the future partition. In accordance with this, we select the profile and gypsum board. If the thickness of the wall in the room is 13.5 cm and you need to match this value, then you need a 100x40 mm profile and 12.5 mm plasterboard. As a result, after very simple calculations, we determine that the thickness of the partition will be 100 + 12.5 + 12.5 + 100 = 125 mm. A difference of 1 cm is not critical.
Let's prepare necessary tools and materials:
- laser and bubble level;
- profile with specified parameters;
- screwdriver and hammer drill;
- self-tapping screws for wood, drywall and metal, dowels;
- metal scissors;
- hammer;
- stationery knife.
The process of making a plasterboard partition in a room with your own hands
Let's start with our step-by-step instructions for making a plasterboard partition with your own hands.
Because the standard width Since the plasterboard sheet is 120x250 mm, we will attach it exclusively vertically. Accordingly, every 60 cm you need to install a rack profile. But for a more durable structure, you can put them every 40 cm. All that remains is to mount the horizontal jumper.
As we install all the necessary horizontal jumpers, we get this “skeleton” of our future partition.
In this case, all profiles can be fastened together with self-tapping screws without a drill, and cut with metal scissors. At the end, be sure to check the plane of the frame and, if necessary, add attachment points to the ceiling, floor, and walls.
“Recess” the screws into the drywall by 1 mm.
First, we cover one side of the partition, and proceed to the second only after all communication systems inside it have been installed - sockets, wires, switches, etc.
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We “embroider” the joints of the gypsum boards using a stationery knife. This is done so that when sealing the seams, the mortar penetrates well into the joints, and the finish turns out smooth and of high quality.
This is how you can easily and inexpensively make a plasterboard partition with your own hands. All that remains is to process the seams and glue the protective corners, after which we can begin finishing our new wall.
Articles on this topic:
Plasterboards are simple and economical way zone the room and change ordinary interior. In addition, the quality characteristics of this material are not inferior to solid walls. It is very difficult to divide a large space into functional areas without the help of specialists. But you can make beautiful partitions from plasterboard with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions will become your real assistant and guide in this. So let's start exploring beneficial properties material and to gain new skills in installing ergonomic partitions.
Read in the article
Scope of application of plasterboard partitions
Most likely, you have heard about such material as or plasterboard sheets. Now let's find out why you should choose for and decor interior partitions from plasterboard.
GKL – finishing material, consisting of three composite layers. In this "sandwich" the middle layer is made of modified gypsum to construction work with additional reinforcement. The outer layers are made of cardboard. For strength, special components are added to the plaster. Lining board is the basis for finishing coatings.
The popularity of the design is due to its simplicity. Plasterboard sheets are fixed to steel frame, and the internal cavities are filled soundproofing materials. The frame is made of horizontal ones, which are attached to the ceiling and floor surfaces.
Drywall is used in many areas. After all, this material can be used to realize any configuration and size. For example, it will not be difficult to build a partition from plasterboard with.
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From the publication you will learn the functions, types, materials of manufacture and types of partition designs, and also find photo examples of glass, plasterboard, wood and other products.
Exist the following options partitions:
- arched, standard, on a double or single profile. In this case, the profile features are taken into account;
- decorative plasterboard partitions or functional walls;
- with openings or blind surfaces;
- sliding or fixed. It depends on the installation technique.
Decorative options are used to decorate a room, as well as to disguise interior defects.
In addition to partitions, plasterboard is used. This allows you to make surfaces perfectly smooth. You can also bring your design ideas to life in the form. Niches from of this material. You can install various souvenirs in them.
By using arched structures can be created original decor in room. And the plasterboard finish allows you to hide any wall defects from view.
What the interior might look like plasterboard partitions can be seen in this video:
For your information! Drywall is universal materials. Lighting sources or insulation can be mounted in surfaces made from it.
Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard partitions
More recently, partitions in residential premises were made of heavy material, which also required complex installation work. But modern ones have become more sophisticated and attractive, thanks to the emergence of construction market drywall. Let us note its positive properties:
- GKL partitions have excellent sound insulation and are perfectly combined with different types thermal insulation material;
- the sheets are very light, which reduces the load on the floors;
- the material has a smooth surface, which allows it to be used as a basis for gluing, or;
- does not apply to flammable materials;
- GCR is hygroscopic. The material perfectly absorbs moisture and allows air to pass through;
- an important parameter is ease of installation, which will allow you to change the interior in the shortest possible time;
- The sheets contain natural ingredients that are safe for health.
The disadvantages include low strength compared to concrete, stone or brick structures. In addition, gypsum board is not very resistant to moisture.
Materials for the manufacture of interior plasterboard partitions
The main types of materials used in the installation of plasterboard partitions are profiles and gypsum board sheets themselves.
You can choose different types of drywall:
- standard gypsum board is distinguished by blue markings and gray. It can be wall or ceiling;
- moisture-resistant gypsum board is suitable for rooms with increased level. It is green in color;
- fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard is used to insulate electrical panels and. It is pink in color and has red markings.
Here's how to create a doorway:
- a wooden beam is inserted inside the galvanized rack profile;
- then the racks with bars are installed inside the guide profiles; using a level it is necessary to check verticality;
- the cross beam is made from a piece of rack profile. You also need to insert a wooden beam into it;
- With downsides crossbars and racks need to make holes for nails;
- fastened with nails wooden elements inside racks;
- installation of the cross member is completed by twisting it on the sides.
To thoroughly understand the technology of how to make a plasterboard partition in a room, do not forget about using a level. This device allows you to maintain the verticality of the elements during installation work.
Installation of vertical racks
An important step is the installation of vertical profiles. It is carried out as follows:
- Marking is carried out for the rack profile, it is marked along the width of the sheet. In this case, there are 3 racks per plate, mounted vertically;
- racks should be installed from the opening to the walls;
- the vertical profile should be checked using a level and fixed with self-tapping screws.
Installation of horizontal bars
Step-by-step installation with instructions: how to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands includes mounting the crossbars in the horizontal direction. To ensure structural rigidity, all vertical type guides must be fastened with horizontal jumpers. In this case, a step of 70÷80 cm is observed. The elements of the rack profile are attached to the vertical posts. After the frame is assembled, wires are laid inside. Separate holes are provided for them. The wiring is laid inside the profiles in special non-flammable insulation.
Wiring device
The advantage of gypsum plasterboard is that any type of material can be mounted in it. You need to worry about the wiring in advance when the sheathing is done on one side. The cables are led inside in special ones, which contribute to better insulation. They pass through holes in the supporting profiles. After wiring, you can lay it down.
Cutting and bending gypsum boards to the required dimensions
Knowledge of how to cut the material so as not to damage it will also come in handy. It is better to make marks on the surface of drywall with a simple pencil. Instead of construction knife You can use regular stationery. First, cuts are made along the drawn lines, and then the material is cut. You can sand the edges with sandpaper.
You can also cut sheets using a hacksaw. If the blade is thin, then you can use it to carefully cut the sheet. has small chisels. You can use it to cut out shaped parts.
Laying gypsum board sheets on the resulting frame, fastening rules
Before making a partition from plasterboard, carefully study the technology of attaching plasterboard sheets:
- You can use it to cut the material. special knife. It is important to cut through the gypsum layer as deeply as possible, and then break the plate along the cut;
- cut edges must be processed with a knife or plane;
- the sheets are fixed to the guides using self-tapping screws;
- When installing the sheet, it is important to leave a gap at the bottom. It is necessary so that the sheets do not become deformed;
- Sound insulation is carried out using isover or mineral wool. The layer is placed between the plates.
For your information! Do not forget to install the bars in those places where you plan to install shelves or niches.
Puttying and finishing
A starting layer is also applied to the stitched sheets. You can then reinforce the outer corners using perforated corners. Then putty is used. It is applied thin layer using two spatulas and sanded. It is better to choose putty from one manufacturer.
After the coating has dried, the finishing can be done. You can use , or .
To summarize, we suggest you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands in the table below:
| Illustration | Description of work |
 | The location where the partition will be mounted is marked. The tape measure is stretched from the sewn surface to the area that was selected. This marking is done on both sides. |
 | A laser level is used for precise marking. The vertical function allows you to accurately mark the markings under side walls. The laser line must be moved to the mark that was made using a tape measure. The marking along the red line should be marked with a pencil. |
 | The guide profile is fixed using a hammer drill and dowel nails. |
 | The profile is fixed on the other side as well. |
 | If the walls are old, then you can further strengthen the structure using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in like a wedge between the metal and the dowel. |
 | You also need to draw a line along the floor between the guides. If installation is intended, then markings are also made for it. To do this, you need to measure the size of the assembled box and add 2 cm for the technical gap. |
 | Then markings are made on the ceiling using the laser plumb function. One laser point should follow the marked line on the floor. In this case, the second one will appear on the ceiling in the right place. |
 | The laser mark must be marked with a pencil. Using a laser level, marks are made on the ceiling every 50 cm. |
 | According to the completed markings, you need to secure the guide profile to the ceiling. In this case, you need to bypass communications. |
 | The profile is attached to the floor taking into account the space under the doorway. |
 | Rack profiles are installed at intervals of 40 cm and vertically. |
 | On one side, the profile is installed at intervals of 40 cm from the wall, and on the other, taking into account the space for the passage of communications. Also, two profiles are placed on both sides of the opening. The profiles near the doorway are placed with the back side facing out. All profiles must stand vertically. This needs to be checked again using a laser tool. |
 | Then you need to secure the vertical posts; for this, a profile cutter is used. The profiles need to be secured on both sides. |
The basis of a plasterboard partition is a frame made of metal profiles or wooden beam. In apartments, installing a frame made of profiles is preferable to wood. Wooden frames more suitable for private houses and cottages. We will discuss how to install a frame from profiles for a plasterboard partition in this article.
Introduction
Important! But this installation sequence is applicable only for plasterboard ceilings and partitions. installed after the plasterboard partition. The slatted ceiling is attached directly to the partition. At the level slatted ceiling additional jumpers from a rack profile (PS) are installed in the partition frame.
In our example, a plasterboard partition is installed from floor to ceiling. The further story is based on exactly this installation of the partition.
Partition marking
Any construction work begins with markings. To install a partition, you need to mark the boundary of the planned partition on the wall and floor. The border line must be closed. To apply it, you need to use a building level so that the guide marks for the future partition are strictly vertical.
You need to step back from the finishing border of the partition by the thickness of two layers and draw a second closed mark. On a mark drawn along the floor, you need to mark the alignment of the future opening under the door. The markings are ready, we proceed to attaching the guide profiles (PN).
Installation of a frame made of guide profiles (PN) for a plasterboard partition
Installation of a frame made of profiles begins with the installation of guides. Guide profiles are attached to the ceiling and floor. First, using metal scissors, you need to cut blanks of the required length from purchased 3-meter profiles. In our example, these are 3 blanks (one for the ceiling and two for the floor, to the right and left of the doorway) see the picture above.
The edge of the lower guide on the doorway side can be bent at 90° by making cuts on the profile walls at 45° (see photo).
To attach the guides, you need to drill the guides, together with the base, with a Ø 8 mm drill, every 60-70 cm and secure them with dowel nails.
Important! On the side of the profile that will come into contact with the load-bearing surfaces, you need to glue a sealing seal. This is needed for better sound insulation partitions, as well as compacting the frame will save the partition from cracks in the area of the seams in the future.
Installation of rack profiles (PS) for plasterboard partitions
Rack profiles (PS) are cut to the required length (room height) and installed in the frame. Two PS profiles (otherwise called racks) are installed on the walls and attached to the wall with double nails.
Important! Dichtungsband sealing tape must be glued to the frame posts that are in contact with the walls.
Two posts are fixed along the border of the doorway. These racks are inserted at the bottom and top into the guide profiles. The racks must be aligned strictly vertically and attached to the guide profiles with metal-to-metal screws 9 mm long or with a cutter. (A cutter is a special tool for fastening metal profiles to each other).
According to the rules, frame posts for drywall are fastened every 60 cm. The fastening pitch (60 cm) is measured from the middle of the posts. This is done so that the edges of the plasterboard sheets, whose size is 1200x2500 mm, when fastened, fall into the middle of the rack and are firmly attached to the frame.
In the vertical posts in which the door will be installed, you need to insert a wooden block into the spacer and secure it with self-tapping screws to the post. The wooden insert will simplify the installation of the door in the future and strengthen the fastening of the door frame.
In our example, another rack should be fixed in the middle of the wide span (see figure).
The vertical posts are installed, let's start installing the crossbars.
Installation of cross lintels for a plasterboard partition
It is better to make the transverse jumpers of the frame for a plasterboard partition from rack profiles (PS). They have great rigidity. They are attached as shown in Fig. In our example, there will be 7 crossbars.
The crossbars are attached to the vertical posts as follows.
One side of the cross profile is inserted into the rack. But it's not entirely simple! The rack profile has rounded edges to enhance rigidity. Therefore, at the point where the cross member is inserted into the rack, rounded edges The racks need to be straightened using pliers.
The second side of the cross profile must first be prepared. In the photo you see what design needs to be cut out using metal scissors. It is not difficult. First, cuts are made along the profile. The resulting “LANGUAGE” is bent and it is this that is screwed to the flat side of the vertical post. Then the sides are cut off.
All fastenings are made with metal-to-metal screws 9 mm long or with a cutter.
There is another way to attach transverse profiles. Cut the crossbars as shown in the picture and insert them into the racks.
After completing all the work described above, we can consider that the installation of a frame made of profiles for a plasterboard partition is complete. After completing the work, do not forget to check its quality. The frame should not swing or even move a little. The vertical posts of the doorway must be strictly vertical.
Let's summarize the installation of a frame made of profiles
The frame for the plasterboard partition is ready. It is rigidly attached to the floor and walls. The doorway has the same width throughout its entire height. The width of the opening is equal to the width of the door with the frame plus 3-4 cm for foaming.
All that remains is to lay the electrical wiring inside the partition in corrugation, sew up one side of the partition with sheets of plasterboard, lay sound insulation inside the partition, and sew up the other side with plasterboard. Then spend Painting works and install the door. After this, the partition can be considered installed.
But more on this in the next article.
Especially for the site:
A popular way to divide the space of an apartment or room into parts is to build a metal frame filled with mineral wool and covered with gypsum board, that is, slabs with a gypsum core covered with durable construction cardboard. This is enough simple system, which you can install yourself. How to make a partition from plasterboard and profiles?
All about installing plasterboard partitions:
Which drywall is suitable?
First of all, you need to choose materials that suit your needs.
Kinds
For finishing city apartments and country houses the following types are used:
- Ordinary. It is intended for rooms where the water vapor content in the air is 30-60%.
- Moisture-resistant, easily recognizable by the characteristic green color of the cardboard. It can be used for rooms with humidity up to 75%, primarily in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.
- Fire resistant, fire and moisture resistant, impact resistant. These are specialized products that are less often used in private homes. Meanwhile, the impact-resistant material is good choice for rooms where there is a possibility of mechanical impact on the walls - children's rooms, corridors. It is also suitable for supports on which you plan to hang heavy furniture.
GKL sizes
On sale you can find sheets with the following parameters (mm):
- Width 600 or 1200
- Length from 2000 to 4000
- Thickness 6.5; 8; 9.5; 12.5; 14; 16; 18; 20
The popular size among consumers is 1200x2500, since larger products are more difficult to transport and move on site. Experts recommend using slabs with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm for cladding to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure. Thin products are more easily damaged, they insulate sound worse, and you can’t even hang a light shelf on them.
Calculation of the number of layers
The frame is sheathed on each side with one, two or three layers sheet material. The larger, the stronger and stiffer the structure and the better its soundproofing properties - due to its massiveness. But the higher its cost. Therefore, the optimal solution for a living space is two layers on each side of the structure.
Calculation of the number of sheets
How many slabs will be needed for finishing? The calculation is simple: we calculate the total area of the interior wall on one side, without openings. If we do the cladding in one layer, then we multiply the resulting value by two (after all, the wall has two sides). If in two layers, then in four. We divide this figure by the area of one gypsum board. For example, for a product measuring 2500x1200 it is 3 m2. Don’t forget about the reserve, its coefficient depends on the size of the room. When its dimensions are less than 10 m2, it is 1.3, when less than 20 m2 - 1.2, when more than 20 m2 - 1.1. We multiply the previously obtained figure by this coefficient, round up to a whole number and obtain the required number of slabs.
How to choose profile sizes
Partitions are constructed from horizontal (guides) and vertical (rack-mount). They are U-shaped, made of galvanized steel. Their parameters (mm):
- The cross-section of the guides is 50x40, 75x40, 100x40, rack-mount - 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
- Length - 3000, 3500, 4000.
- Thickness - from 0.5 to 2.
The size of the product is selected based on the planned loads, sound insulation requirements, etc. Please note: the stand must fit tightly into the guide. For example, for a horizontal element with a section of 50x40, vertical sections with a section of 50x50 are suitable.
Often, to save apartment space, a wall is made only 7-8 cm on a frame made of galvanized steel profiles 50 × 50. Such a system is highly susceptible to vibrations, and 0.5 cm thick mineral wool is not enough to comply building codes in terms of sound insulation (41 dB).
The system should be assembled from elements 50x70 or 50x100. You can also take dry, knot-free wooden blocks - some experts believe that this option is even better in terms of insulation airborne noise.
In addition, the thickness of the profile is also important. For interior wall choose designs of at least 0.6 mm. If you use thinner parts, then when attaching the slabs, the screws may turn, which reduces the strength of the structure. There are already products on the market, but they have insufficient rigidity and therefore should not be used. Otherwise there is a risk of sagging.
What materials and tools will be needed
Materials
- Sound-absorbing mats - usually made of (stone fiber)
- Damper (sealing) tape
- Dowel-nails
- Anchor wedges
- Self-tapping screws with press washer
- Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) with a countersunk head
- Acrylic primer
- Gypsum or polymer putty
- Reinforcing paper tape
How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands
Installation of plasterboard can only be carried out after all “wet” work on site has been completed. If the air in the room is heavily saturated with moisture, the slabs will absorb it and may become deformed.
In addition, it is not recommended to begin installation immediately after delivery of the plasterboard to the site. After all, they were most likely stored in a damp, unheated room. If they are immediately placed vertically in a heated room and secured to a base, they will begin to dry unevenly, which can lead to their curvature and the appearance of cracks on the wall surface. It is worth waiting at least 24 hours (or better - 3-4 days), placing the material in a horizontal position, and only then proceeding with the main work.
Marking
The first stage is marking the design location. It is performed using a laser level or ruler in combination with a coloring chop cord. First, mark the place for the partition and the doorway on the floor. Then using laser device or a plumb line, the outline of the structure is transferred to the walls and ceiling.
Installation of guides
- Ensure that the guides fit snugly to the base.
- Prevent the spread of vibration from the house structure by improving sound insulation.
Horizontal beams are fixed to the floor and walls with 6x40 dowel nails. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 100 cm (optimally about 40 cm), moreover, there should be at least three dowel nails per guide. The holes for them are made with a puncher. The nails are driven in with a screwdriver or, if you have experience, with the same hammer drill. It is recommended to fasten them to the ceiling with anchor wedges in advance. drilled holes.
You can cut the frame parts with metal scissors (mechanical, electric) or an angle grinder. But be extremely careful. Burrs after cutting with scissors, as well as protruding screw heads can cause unevenness. Meanwhile, the structure is not designed for plastering, and putty can be used to “remove” small bumps and pits. At the same time, continuous puttying will significantly increase the labor intensity of the work.
Construction of racks
Typically, the pitch of vertical supports is 60 cm. In the case of a high design load on this wall or a ceiling height of more than 4 m, the pitch is reduced to 40 cm. You can also increase the rigidity this way: make a stand from two profiles, installed end to end and fastened with press washers . It can also be strengthened using horizontal jumpers. Vertical supports should be 1 cm less than the height of the room - for ease of installation and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the building. If the product is shorter than necessary, it is lengthened. To do this, one element is placed on another with an overlap of at least 50 cm and connected with self-tapping screws. In the frame, the overlaps are spaced apart to prevent weakening of the structure and, as a result, the appearance of cracks.
Some craftsmen fasten vertical and horizontal beams with self-tapping screws and press washers. It is not right. The caps will face towards the room, will stick out and interfere during the covering, which will ultimately negatively affect the reliability of the entire system. As an option, you can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws until the base is assembled. And then, immediately before finishing the gypsum boards, unscrew them step by step. But this will increase installation time.
Optimal solution- cutter. He will connect the parts using the cutting and folding method. Such fasteners do not interfere with subsequent installation. Let us add that the vertical supports must be level before fastening.
A technical error is considered to be the absence of cushioning layers between the partition and the main walls and ceilings. In this case, structural noise is transmitted to it. It is advisable to attach the guides to the walls, ceiling and floor through elastic gaskets (made of porous rubber, cork, polyethylene foam), which will dampen vibration, make the structure more airtight and thereby help increase the level of acoustic comfort in the rooms. In a new building, seams filled with elastic material compensate for shrinkage deformations of building elements.
Creating a Doorway
Most often it is performed using standard profiles, inside of which wooden blocks are placed for reinforcement. You can also connect two racks into a box or install a special 2 mm thick profile element, which has increased strength and is suitable for massive ones. Above the opening, a horizontal jumper is provided from a trimmed frame part. The jumper is leveled and fixed to the posts with self-tapping screws.
An important point: you need to mark the places for the racks so that subsequently the joints do not fall on the vertical beams framing the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks appearing around it.
Soundproofing and communications
Before installation, holes are cut in the racks for electrical wiring. The cables are pulled into corrugated pipes. The holes in the plasterboard for the socket boxes are made with metal crowns - attachments for a screwdriver.
The space between the racks is filled with sound-absorbing mats or rolls of mineral wool. They are selected based on the width of the frame.
As for the choice of rolled mineral wool, a product with a density of at least 40 kg/m3 is suitable. Wool of less density cakes and settles over time.
Sheathing
When performing this, the following rules must be observed:
- Use self-tapping screws of the required length. The calculation is as follows: length = sheet thickness + profile + 1 cm (the fasteners should extend into the metal part). That is, for single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long are used, for double-layer sheathing - 3.5 cm long.
- When screwing, the screws must be recessed into the gypsum board strictly by 1 mm. If you do not tighten them, they will become an obstacle during puttying. If you twist them, they can damage the core of the product, and the fastening will be unreliable. Cheap way set the desired depth - an attachment with a limiter for a conventional screwdriver. Professionals prefer a screwdriver with limited driving depth.
- The installation pitch of the screws is no more than 25 cm. To prevent the slab from crumbling, they must be screwed in at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from it end edge and at least 1 cm from the longitudinal one.
- Often the height of the structure is greater than the length of the gypsum board. Then, with single-layer cladding, vertically adjacent slabs are joined on an additional lintel. Moreover, horizontally adjacent ones are mounted with an offset of 40-60 cm. When finishing in two layers, the jumpers can be neglected, but the elements of the second layer should overlap the joints of the first and be spaced apart relative to each other.
- To avoid the appearance of cracks, you need to leave a gap between the slabs and the floor of at least 1 cm. A small gap is also left on top, and at the point where the sheathing adjoins the ceiling, you can stick a separating tape.
- Drywall is cut with a special hacksaw or a construction saw or stationery knife. When working with a hacksaw, there will be dust and the cut will be sloppy. And when using a knife, it is neat and does not create dust. However, you cannot remove the edges from the sheets at the joints with a knife (as required by the installation technology): the cut will be uneven. The edges are removed with a special plane having an angle of 22.5°. This allows you to make a 45° joint between materials. If it is necessary to level the edge of the cut layer, use a roughing plane.
- The doorway is first completely covered with sheathing, which is then cut along the posts and lintel - this makes it easier to ensure the desired geometry. Thus, the upper part of the opening is always formed by L-shaped elements to prevent cracks from occurring.
