What is Izoplat – installation features. External cladding of a house with isoplate Isoplate slabs fastened to a concrete ceiling

Requirements:

ISOPLAT sheets are used for finishing, leveling, increase soundproofing And thermal insulation in rooms with dry and normal humidity levels.
Installation must be carried out within the period finishing works, i.e. after all “wet” processes that can significantly increase the humidity in the room have been completed. Electrical and plumbing installations have also been completed.
Work must be carried out in dry and normal humidity conditions.
Before installation, keep ISOPLAT sheets for 1-2 days in the same room in order to equalize the humidity. Place the sheets vertically, place spacers to allow air access and avoid sheet curvature.
If, when installing on a frame structure made of wooden beam(on the sheathing) there is a horizontal joint of two sheets, then their fastening and joining should be done on a horizontal block (mortgage). Adjacent horizontal joints must be offset vertically relative to each other.
When finishing the openings of windows and doors, do not allow the sheets to join at the corners of the opening.
ISOPLAT sheet has one side smooth, the other wavy. Installation is carried out with the smooth side facing out. Those. The smooth side of the thermal insulation wall panel is used for finishing.
Ceiling sheathing with ISOPLAT sheets requires mandatory fastening with nails in increments of 2 times more often than for a wall. It is recommended to use wide “bug” type caps. For the best sound insulation effect, multi-layer sheathing is recommended, for example, a gypsum plasterboard sheet is attached closely to the Izoplat, additionally supporting the ISOPLAT sheet and enhancing the insulating effect. See section "Soundproofing".
The placement of electrical wiring in the space of the sheathing frame must exclude the possibility of damage to it by fasteners (nails, staples, etc.)

The procedure for installing the ISOPLAT slab on a vertical wooden frame(lathing)

For the manufacture of frame structure A wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 45x45 is used as a partition or cladding of the base wall. The pitch of the frame posts depends on the thickness of the slab. Fastening is carried out using galvanized nails with a wide head or construction staples made of of stainless steel or coated. The length of the fastener depends on the thickness of the slab. Along the perimeter of the sheet, nails are nailed every 100-150 mm, inside the sheet every 300 mm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 10-20 mm.

ISOPLAT plate 12 mm thick.

The frame strut pitch (center-to-center distance) is 280 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 40 mm, the length of the staple is at least 32 mm.

ISOPLAT plate 25 mm thick.

The frame strut pitch (center-to-center distance) is 600 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 70 mm, the length of the staple is at least 58 mm.

The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs to a stone (concrete, etc.) wall using glue. Frameless installation

If stone surface If it is fairly flat, you can do without sheathing. Sheets of Isoplats are glued directly to the wall, due to which inner space premises.

Simple and quick way– polyurethane polyurethane foam(type Macroflex, etc.) or polyurethane sealant (type Tytan Industry PU, etc.).

Glue selection:

- For experienced craftsmen glue for plasterboard (dry mixture based on gypsum or cement, brand of your choice) or glue for mineral wool(on a cement basis, for example, CERESIT ST 190 or BAUMIT StarKontakt).

- simple and most effective method— polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL, etc.).

The adhesive can be applied both to the wall and to the sheet. Depends on the glue manufacturer's instructions. For example, if the base is flat, the glue is applied to the sheet in a 50 mm wide strip using a notched trowel around the perimeter and in three rows inside the sheet. If the base is uneven, the glue is applied in a thick layer of at least 10 mm, as shown in the photo, or on the wall in plaques.

Foam is applied to the sheet along the perimeter and in three rows along the length inside the sheet. The distance between the rows of foam is approximately 30 cm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 3 cm. The foam can also be applied in a zigzag, as shown in the photo. For a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm, in order to prevent subsequent swelling of the thin sheet, you should wait a few minutes after applying the foam so that the foam expands as much as possible.

Then the ISOPLAT sheet is lifted, installed on 10-12 mm pads, pressed against the wall and leveled. The sheet must be pressed against the surface to be glued for at least 15 minutes. It is recommended to additionally press the glued sheet to the wall with screws. At least 9 pcs. 3 in a row per sheet. Screws will also help to fit the joints of two sheets. After the glue has dried, the screws can be removed. Fill the voids in the seams with glue or foam to prevent the formation of cracks along the joints after puttying. When using glue or foam, it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations: types of surfaces to be glued, adhesion time, pressing time, etc.

Before subsequent (finishing) finishing, you must wait at least 24 hours for the sheet to dry completely.

Attention! Typically, the outermost sheets on a pallet (applies to thin sheets 12 mm thick) may have slight surface curvature due to the high elasticity and natural properties of wood. The sheet easily straightens when mounted on a frame structure, or when laid on a floor or ceiling as an insulating absorbent layer in a multilayer structure in combination with rigid sheets, such as gypsum board. For gluing to the wall, it is recommended to lightly moisten such sheets using a hand sprayer, lay them on a solid, straight base or on the floor and press them on top with a small weight. Leave for 24 hours.

The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs on the ceiling

It is recommended to attach Isoplat sheets to the ceiling on a wooden frame or metal profile. The pitch of the posts and the length of the fasteners are the same as for mounting on a wooden frame indicated above. The fastening spacing is twice as frequent as on a vertical frame (wall). Fasteners: nails with a wide head or screws with a “bug” head. Then a gypsum board sheet is mounted on top of the Isoplat sheet. Further finishing of the gypsum board sheet is carried out in the usual manner. It is not recommended to glue Izoplat sheet to the ceiling.

Preparation of ISOPLAT sheet for finishing

Puttying of joints is carried out using reinforcing mesh ordinary putty (for example, the brand does not matter, but it is advisable to choose ready-made plastic buckets, since there is an optimal amount of water). Preliminarily along the joints of the installed sheets using sandpaper make a recess 2-3 mm and 50-60 mm wide. Conventional putty is applied in the area where sheets meet to the specified width, reinforcing tape is laid along the joint and smoothed with a spatula while removing excess putty. Do not allow the putty to be completely squeezed out from under the tape. After the first layer of putty has dried (12-24 hours), a covering layer is applied. The recesses formed by nail heads or staples should also be filled with putty. After drying, the putty surface is sanded and the entire surface is primed. water-based paint. Smooth surface ISOPLAT slabs are used for wallpapering, painting, and finishing with plaster. For best results in case of high demands on surface quality, usually, continuous finishing puttying is performed. Then the surface prime with water-based paint. Further finishing of the puttied and primed surface is carried out according to standard methods.

Primer with water-based paint provides a white base for wallpaper. Plus: the brown dark background will not be visible through the wallpaper. Another plus: if you re-glue the wallpaper, you can easily soak and remove the old wallpaper without damaging the surface of the slab. You won't have to putty again.

Description of installation of ISOPLAT sheets to diagrams 1-5

Fasteners are used for a frame structure or partition made of wooden beams: galvanized nails with a wide head or staples. The distance from the edge of the slab is 10-20 mm. The fastener pitch along the edge is 100-150 mm and in the center of the sheet - 280 mm.
TO wooden surface ISOPLAT sheets are nailed or stapled according to a pattern similar to fastening to a wooden frame. The distance between rows of fasteners is 300-400 mm.
Fasteners for ISOPLAT sheets with a thickness of 12 and 25 mm, respectively. Nails and staples.
To cover stone (concrete) walls with ISOPLAT sheets, polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL) or drywall adhesive (for example, the brand does not matter) is used. The main wall to be covered must be smooth and free of dust (primed). Glue is applied to reverse side slabs at a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the slab. In the central part of the slab, glue dots with a diameter of 50 mm are applied in increments of approximately 280 mm.
On wooden wall(timber) ISOPLAT sheets are nailed in increments of 300-400 mm according to the same principle as for wooden sheathing.

Installation of windproof board Izoplat

The Scandinavian windproof board ISOPLAAT is a sheet with a format of 2700x1200 mm. Thickness 12 or 25 mm. The edge of the sheet is straight.

ISOPLAT sheets are installed vertically to the wall frame structure (for example, a wall frame house from a board 150x50 or lathing on aerated concrete from timber 50x50 mm). In this case, one sheet covers three vertical posts. The distance between the frame posts from their centers should be 600 mm (see drawing 1).

ISOPLAT sheets are nailed with galvanized nails or professional construction staples along the entire perimeter of the sheet: vertically to the frame posts, horizontally to the strapping elements or to the mortgages. And in the center of the sheet, where auxiliary markings are applied in the center on the painted side.

Horizontal joints of two sheets that do not fall on the strapping element are reinforced with a mortgage (board/beam at least 50x50 mm), to which the edges of the slabs are nailed. The mortgage is installed with inside frame structure between vertical posts and attached to them metal corners. The boards are secured using nails or staples. To facilitate installation, there is a longitudinal strip in the center of the sheet.

The height of the base must be at least 40 cm.

If a ventilated façade (lining, siding, etc.) is planned as decorative wall cladding, it is recommended wooden blocks or install slats (lathing) immediately after installing the slabs to provide additional rigidity (as shown in the photo on the left, pay attention to the height of the base there).

Windproof boards should be covered with outer façade cladding no later than one month after their installation. To ensure moisture exchange, an air (ventilated) gap of 20-50 mm wide is created between the slab and the sheathing.

Fastening 12 mm wind protection plate

Galvanized nails with a wide head no less than 40 mm long or staples no less than 32 mm long are used (see Figure 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples are driven along the edge of the slab at intervals of 100 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 200 mm (see Figure 4). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 25 pcs/m2.

Attaching a 25 mm wind barrier plate

Galvanized nails with a wide head no less than 70 mm long or staples no less than 58 mm long are used (see Figure 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples are driven along the edge of the slab at intervals of 100-150 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 280 mm (see Figure 5). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 15 pcs/m2.

Installation on the roof of the ISOPLAT tongue-and-groove universal slab

In the roof structure, the universal ISOPLAT tongue-and-groove slab, in addition to the usual functions of wind and water protection, additionally performs seamless insulation over the entire area, insulation of cold bridges, directly wooden rafters, and most importantly for the attic, it provides effective sound insulation from precipitation, protecting the homeowners’ sleep. Also, due to its high energy intensity, the stove protects the attic from summer overheating.

In design roofing pie The universal ISOPLAT tongue-and-groove board takes the place of the wind-waterproofing layer.

Work order

1. Fasten the slabs directly to the rafters from bottom to top, in horizontal rows. Installation begins from the bottom row from left to right (Fig. 1). The thorn looks up. One sheet must cover at least two rafters. After finishing the covering of the first row, the cut piece of the end slab goes to the beginning of the second row (Fig. 2). Vertical joints of adjacent rows are shifted with ligation (like brickwork).

2. Install the sheathing. The sheathing is fastened through Isoplat to the rafters.

3. Further work is carried out as usual, depending on the selected roofing material. Two standard schemes with flexible (soft) tiles and metal tiles are presented below.

Between the wind-waterproof layer and roofing material(tiles) it is necessary to create a ventilated gap (vent) to allow moisture to escape from the roof structure.

Table with values

Roof slope - at least 20 degrees

The distance between the rafters is 600-700 mm

Ventilated gap - at least 20 mm

Fasteners - Fe/Zn nail no less than 3x70 mm

The distance from the edge is 35 mm (so as not to damage the tongue and groove)

Fastening pitch - along the edge 100-150 mm, in the center 200 mm

Fastener consumption - 18 pcs/sheet

Sealing of extreme joints - bitumen-rubber tape, polyurethane sealant

Installation of underlay under Izoplat laminate

Before installation, it is recommended to unpack the ISOPLAT substrate and keep it for 24 hours in the same room where they will be installed so that the humidity of the slab is equal to the humidity of the surrounding air. This will reduce the subsequent “play” of the slabs after they are installed. To do this, the plates are installed at the end, and strips are installed between them to ensure air movement.

The sheets of the substrate are laid on the main surface (subfloor) next to each other, and an expansion gap of 5-10 mm is left between the wall and the slabs. For this purpose, cut pieces of the substrate are suitable, which are removed after laying and securing the slabs. It is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm between the plates. If necessary (for example, under linoleum), the sheets can be attached to the main surface either by gluing at several points, or with staples or nails.

The underlay is laid at an angle of 45° relative to the joints of the floor coverings. This prevents the joints of the laminate or parquet board with the joints of the substrate. The laminate is laid directly on the backing sheets.

Since ISOTEX panels “breathe”, it is recommended to open the packaging and leave them indoors for 24 hours. For installation you will need a square, a knife, a tape measure, a pencil, staples for a stapler and the actual construction stapler. Used for gluing to walls assembly adhesive"liquid Nails". If the ceiling or walls are made of wood, gypsum boards or concrete without significant curvature, then ISOTEX panels are attached directly to the surface using glue or staples. If the surfaces (walls or ceiling) have large unevenness, install wooden sheathing under the panels. The panels are easily cut with a sharp carpet knife along a metal ruler. Make cuts from the side decorative covering. Any woodworking tools are also suitable for cutting: jigsaw, Circular Saw etc.

ISOTEX wall panels with paper coating

Installation on the lathing

Used for lathing wooden planks cross section 19x44 mm. The planks must be installed in 290 mm increments (measure between the centers of the planks). The panels are fastened to the sheathing with 10-14 mm staples, intervals of no more than 100 mm.

Glue mounting

Apply strips of glue to the back of the panel at a distance of about 20 mm from the edges, and in the center of the panel - drops of glue every 200 mm. Press the panel against the wall slightly away from the adjacent panel and slide it laterally so that the adhesive surface is level.

Ceiling panels

Installation on the sheathing

To make the lathing on which the ceiling panels are installed, dry wooden slats 50-100 mm wide. They are installed at a distance of 280 mm between the middles (axes) of the slats (Figure 1). Attach the plates to the slats with brackets, making sure that the distance between them is at least 100 mm. The length of the staple is 10-14 mm. The edge panel must be secured using nails or screws so that Wall panel closed them. The panels are attached along the sheathing, and best result It turns out if the direction of lighting coincides with the direction of the seams.

Installation with glue

Apply stripes of glue at a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the plate and a drop of glue in the middle of the panel in increments of 200 mm (Figure 4). Attach the panel to the ceiling or wall close to the previous plate, push it into the tongue so that the pile of glue is smeared and press without additional fastening. Panels with a textile coating are installed with glue or construction clamps aimed at different sides. Detailed installation instructions are included in the product packaging.

Ruler sheet materials, intended for insulation and finishing of buildings, has been replenished with a new trademark.

Its name, Isoplat, still means little to most developers. Therefore, the purpose of this article is a detailed and objective description of this material.

What is Isoplat?

In short, Isoplat is a soft fiberboard, abbreviated as MDVP. It is made from fibers coniferous species wood Country of origin: Estonia, manufacturer: Skano Fiberboard.

Before wood becomes a slab, it undergoes several stages of processing. First, the starting material - wood chips - is scalded with steam and softened in hot water. After this, it is ground to obtain a liquid fibrous mass and poured onto the conveyor belt. Vacuum pumps removed from the wood “carpet” excess moisture, subjected to hot pressing and dried in tunnel chambers. Final stage– cutting into standard sheets with a thickness of 4 to 50 mm.

Manufacturers claim that Isoplaat technology does not use glue. The fibers in the boards are connected by a natural polymer - lignin. It is contained in any coniferous wood and is activated by intense heat and pressure.

Now let's see where this material is used and what properties it has.

Scope of application

Isoplat sheets are used for roof insulation, as well as as wind protection for the walls of frame buildings. In addition, a plate designed for internal warmth and soundproofing of premises. Thin sheets (4-7 mm) have proven themselves as a substrate for floor coverings(parquet, laminate).

Material used for external works(wind protection of walls, roof insulation), is treated with liquid paraffin to increase moisture-proof properties. It is placed on the wall frame before installation exterior finishing(siding, blockhouse). Izoplat is laid on the roof before installing metal tiles, slate, sheet metal or bitumen shingles. Roofing and windproof slabs have a tongue-and-groove joining edge. It increases the tightness of joints and simplifies installation.

Isoplat plate for interior work(cladding of walls, ceilings, lining under laminate) does not have paraffin impregnation and does not have a joining edge. Its front side is made denser and smoother (for finishing).

physical characteristics

The thermal conductivity of the Izoplat plate is comparable to mineral wool (0.045 W/(m*K). However, due to its small thickness, this material cannot be considered as independent thermal insulation. The best option– support for the main insulation.

The moisture resistance of windproof boards treated with paraffin is quite high. However, manufacturers do not recommend leaving them open for more than 2 months. A negative point is the change in leaf geometry under the influence of moisture. When moistened, the wood fiber material forms “waves”. For external installation this is not so critical (the slab is covered by the outer cladding).

At indoor installation This causes the seams to open and warp. Therefore, before finishing, all joints must be glued with reinforcing tape and puttied, and the slab must be securely fixed to the wall.

The high vapor permeability of MDVP boards is explained by their fibrous structure. Using this material for wind protection, you can do without a film vapor barrier.

Soundproofing ability is one of the main advantages of this material. For this reason, it is actively used to reduce noise levels in rooms (by 23-26 decibels).

The density of the panels ranges from 230 to 270 kg/m3.

The fire resistance of Izoplat slabs fully complies with the standards fire safety. The fibrous material prevents the spread of fire. Under the influence of a flame, it becomes charred and the ash blocks the access of oxygen to inner layers wood

Biostability. Wood fiber is exposed to hot water, pressure and high temperature. As a result, substances (sugar, starch) are washed out and broken down, which serve as a breeding ground for fungus and mold.

The manufacturer claims that the environmental characteristics of this material are at the level natural wood. Since the material does not contain dangerous chemicals or toxic glue, it is hypoallergenic and can be used in children's rooms.

Duration of operation - 50 years. This is the period for which the manufacturer provides a guarantee.

Dimensions

The standard size of a windproof and heat and sound insulating board is 2700 by 1200 mm (thickness from 12 to 50 mm). The tongue-and-groove windproof board has smaller dimensions of 2400x800 mm.

Roofing Isoplat, equipped with a joining edge, is cut into sheets of 1875 by 1200 mm, 1800 by 600 mm, and also in sizes 2500 by 750 (with a thickness of 12 and 25 mm).

The sheets used as a backing for laminate and parquet have a length of 850 mm and a width of 590 mm (thickness from 4 to 7 mm).

Prices

The estimated price in 2017 for heat-sound-insulating and windproof slabs 12 mm thick is 250-300 rubles/m2. For thicker material (25 mm) you will have to pay an average of 500-600 rubles/m2.

Roofing Isoplat (25 mm) is sold at a price of 700 rubles/m2.

The thinnest material for lining under laminate (4 mm) can be purchased for 130 rubles/m2. A thicker 7 mm substrate will cost no less than 190 rubles/m2.

Reviews

Isoplat for external cladding of houses and roofs is used more actively than material intended for interior decoration walls The manufacturer's desire to introduce its products into all types of facing works logical and understandable. However, in the reviews of those who used Izoplat MDVP to decorate walls indoors, one can find many complaints.

The first group of complaints relates to the consumption of glue for attaching sheets and the evenness of the surface on which they are placed. The actual amount of adhesive is much higher than what the manufacturer recommends. In addition, the walls under the Isoplat must be perfectly smooth. In those places where there are minor depressions on the surface, it does not stick well.

The second minus relates to the joints. If you do not reinforce them with reinforcing mesh, then the next day after installation you will see that they have come apart. After some time, the joints of the plates converge. This behavior is caused by changes in air humidity, which results in fluctuations in leaf size.

The third unpleasant surprise for beginners concerns the operation of preparing slabs for wallpapering. The primer consumption is high, since the Isoplat plate for interior wall decoration is very hygroscopic. And even after complete saturation with the primer, there is no guarantee that the wallpaper will adhere tightly to it.

Let's open little secret. In the homeland of this material, Estonia, wallpaper is not glued to it. Therefore, experts advise everyone who is faced with this problem to first paint over sheets of breathable acrylic paint and after that glue the wallpaper. It is clear that the labor intensity and cost of such “finishing” does not please anyone.

Fortunately, Izoplat slabs have a “twin brother” - a material called Isotex, produced by the same manufacturer. Wallpaper or decorative textiles are glued onto it in the factory, which behave flawlessly during use. The only negative is the small selection of colors and textures of Isotex boards.

On the material used for the substrate, outer skin walls and roof insulation, we did not find any serious complaints. The only remark concerns the use of slabs with a tongue-and-groove connection for wind protection.

Sheets with a straight edge are not very convenient to work with. For them, it is necessary to design the arrangement of frame racks so that the joints of the slabs fall at their centers. In this case, the free space between the racks is less than standard width insulation (600 mm). Mineral wool has to be cut, which increases the amount of waste, labor intensity and cost of insulation.

It should also be noted the high price of Izoplat slabs compared to other types of cladding (plasterboard, lining) and insulation (mineral wool, ecowool). This factor forces the buyer to think carefully before making a purchase.

Installation features

For installation of Izoplata indoors, experts recommend purchasing material with a thickness of at least 25 mm. A 12 mm thick sheet is less rigid and often forms “waves” when humidity fluctuates.

The panels need to be allowed to “rest” for several days in the room where they will be installed. This prevents the material from deforming after installation.

The slabs are attached to brick and concrete walls using glue and screws. For work, you can use drywall adhesive or polyurethane foam. The thickness of the glue must be at least 10 mm with a layer width of 5 cm.

The distance between strokes is chosen within 30 cm. The glue distance from the edge of the sheet is at least 3 cm. After applying the glue, the sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and kept in this position for 15-20 minutes. After this, the plate is fixed with galvanized dowels, deepening their heads into the sheets by 1-2 mm, and the installation sites are puttied.

As we have already said, before finishing the Izoplat slab must be primed, and its joints must be reinforced with sickle mesh and puttied.

Installation of wind protection and roof insulation

Installation of Isoplat on a wooden frame, walls and roof is carried out with stainless steel construction staples, galvanized nails with a wide head or screws with flat heads. During the sheathing process, a gap of at least 2 mm is left between the sheets.

The sheathing pitch when installing panels on the roof depends on their thickness.

For 12 mm sheets it should be no more than 30 cm, and for 25 mm sheets no more than 60 cm.

Nails and staples are driven in at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet. The interval between fastening points at the edges of the panels should be no more than 10 cm. In the middle part of the sheets, the recommended fastening spacing is 20 cm.

Windproof boards are fixed to the walls at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground surface, using a starting strip. Panels with straight edges are installed in a vertical position.

Plates with a 4-sided tongue-and-groove joint are placed in horizontal rows.

To remove water vapor from the windproof board, it is necessary to create a gap 3 to 5 cm wide. To do this, installed panels a wooden block (counter batten) is stuffed and the external cladding of the walls and roof is attached to it.

Laying panels on the floor

Installation of the Izoplat substrate on the floor can begin after keeping it indoors for 24 hours. To speed up the process, leveling the moisture content of the material with the humidity of the air, spacers made of wooden blocks are placed between the sheets in increments of 30 cm.

The base for laying the material must be dry (humidity no more than 5%) and level (protrusions and depressions of no more than 1 mm per 2 meters of room length are allowed).

Working with MDVP substrate is easy. This material is easy to cut with a knife, and to lay it you need a minimum of tools: a square and a tape measure. The sheets are installed at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the direction of laying the laminate or parquet board. This method prevents the seams in the lining and the floor covering from matching.

When installing the lining, a deformation gap of 0.5-1 cm is left between it and the wall. To enhance contact with the floor slab or cement screed the substrate can be fixed to them using glue.

Requirements:

ISOPLAT sheets are used for finishing, leveling, increase soundproofing And thermal insulation in rooms with dry and normal humidity levels.
Installation must be carried out during the finishing work, i.e. after all “wet” processes that can significantly increase the humidity in the room have been completed. Electrical and plumbing installations have also been completed.
Work must be carried out in dry and normal humidity conditions.
Before installation, keep ISOPLAT sheets for 1-2 days in the same room in order to equalize the humidity. Place the sheets vertically, place spacers to allow air access and avoid sheet curvature.
If, when installing on a frame structure made of wooden beams (on a sheathing), there is a horizontal joint between two sheets, then their fastening and joining should be done on a horizontal block (mortgage). Adjacent horizontal joints must be offset vertically relative to each other.
When finishing the openings of windows and doors, do not allow the sheets to join at the corners of the opening.
ISOPLAT sheet has one side smooth, the other wavy. Installation is carried out with the smooth side facing out. Those. The smooth side of the thermal insulation wall panel is used for finishing.
Ceiling sheathing with ISOPLAT sheets requires mandatory fastening with nails in increments of 2 times more often than for a wall. It is recommended to use wide “bug” type caps. For the best sound insulation effect, multi-layer sheathing is recommended, for example, a gypsum plasterboard sheet is attached closely to the Izoplat, additionally supporting the ISOPLAT sheet and enhancing the insulating effect. See section "Soundproofing".
The placement of electrical wiring in the space of the sheathing frame must exclude the possibility of damage to it by fasteners (nails, staples, etc.)

The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs on a vertical wooden frame (sheathing)

To manufacture a frame structure, a wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 45x45 is used as a partition or cladding of the base wall. The pitch of the frame posts depends on the thickness of the slab. Fastening is carried out using galvanized nails with a wide head or construction staples made of stainless steel or coated. The length of the fastener depends on the thickness of the slab. Along the perimeter of the sheet, nails are nailed every 100-150 mm, inside the sheet every 300 mm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 10-20 mm.

ISOPLAT plate 12 mm thick.

The frame strut pitch (center-to-center distance) is 280 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 40 mm, the length of the staple is at least 32 mm.

ISOPLAT plate 25 mm thick.

The frame strut pitch (center-to-center distance) is 600 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 70 mm, the length of the staple is at least 58 mm.

The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs to a stone (concrete, etc.) wall using glue. Frameless installation

If the stone surface is fairly flat, then you can do without sheathing. Sheets of Isoplats are glued directly to the wall, due to which the interior space of the room is gained.

A simple and quick way is polyurethane foam (such as Macroflex, etc.) or polyurethane sealant (such as Tytan Industry PU, etc.).

Glue selection:

- for experienced craftsmen, glue for plasterboard (dry mixture on a gypsum or cement basis, brand of your choice) or glue for mineral wool (on a cement basis, for example, CERESIT ST 190 or BAUMIT StarKontakt).

- the simplest and most effective method is polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL, etc.).

Before subsequent (finishing) finishing, you must wait at least 24 hours for the sheet to dry completely.

The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs on the ceiling

Preparing ISOPLAT sheets for finishing

Puttying of joints is carried out using reinforcing mesh ordinary putty (for example, the brand does not matter, but it is advisable to choose ready-made in plastic buckets, since there is an optimal amount of water there). First, use sandpaper to make a recess of 2-3 mm and a width of 50-60 mm along the joints of the installed sheets. Conventional putty is applied in the area where sheets meet to the specified width, reinforcing tape is laid along the joint and smoothed with a spatula while removing excess putty. Do not allow the putty to be completely squeezed out from under the tape. After the first layer of putty has dried (12-24 hours), a covering layer is applied. The recesses formed by nail heads or staples should also be filled with putty. After drying, the putty surface is sanded and the entire surface is primed with water-based paint. The smooth surface of the ISOPLAT board is used for wallpapering, painting, and plastering. For best results in case of high demands on surface quality, usually, continuous finishing puttying is performed. Then the surface prime with water-based paint. Further finishing of the puttied and primed surface is carried out according to standard methods.

Description of installation of ISOPLAT sheets to diagrams 1-5

Fasteners are used for a frame structure or partition made of wooden beams: galvanized nails with a wide head or staples. The distance from the edge of the slab is 10-20 mm. The fastener pitch along the edge is 100-150 mm and in the center of the sheet - 280 mm.
ISOPLAT sheets are nailed or stapled to a wooden surface according to a pattern similar to fastening to a wooden frame. The distance between rows of fasteners is 300-400 mm.
Fasteners for ISOPLAT sheets with a thickness of 12 and 25 mm, respectively. Nails and staples.
To cover stone (concrete) walls with ISOPLAT sheets, polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL) or drywall adhesive (for example, the brand does not matter) is used. The main wall to be covered must be smooth and free of dust (primed). The glue is applied to the back side of the slabs at a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the slab. In the central part of the slab, glue dots with a diameter of 50 mm are applied in increments of approximately 280 mm.
ISOPLAT sheets are nailed onto a wooden wall (beam) in increments of 300-400 mm according to the same principle as to a wooden sheathing.

Installation of windproof board Izoplat

The Scandinavian windproof board ISOPLAAT is a sheet with a format of 2700x1200 mm. Thickness 12 or 25 mm. The edge of the sheet is straight.

ISOPLAT sheets are installed vertically to the frame structure of the wall (for example, the wall of a frame house made of 150x50 boards or lathing on aerated concrete made of 50x50 mm timber). In this case, one sheet covers three vertical posts. The distance between the frame posts from their centers should be 600 mm (see drawing 1).

Horizontal joints of two sheets that do not fall on the strapping element are reinforced with a mortgage (board/beam at least 50x50 mm), to which the edges of the slabs are nailed. The mortgage is installed on the inside of the frame structure between the vertical posts and is attached to them with metal corners. The boards are secured using nails or staples. To facilitate installation, there is a longitudinal strip in the center of the sheet.

The height of the base must be at least 40 cm.

If a ventilated façade (lining, siding, etc.) is planned as decorative wall cladding, it is recommended to install wooden blocks or slats (lathing) immediately after installing the slabs to provide additional rigidity (as shown in the photo on the left, also pay attention to base height).

Windproof boards should be covered with external façade cladding no later than one month after their installation. To ensure moisture exchange, an air (ventilated) gap of 20-50 mm wide is created between the slab and the sheathing.

Fastening 12 mm wind protection plate

Attaching a 25 mm wind barrier plate

Installation on the roof of the ISOPLAT tongue-and-groove universal slab

In the design of the roofing pie, the universal ISOPLAT tongue-and-groove board takes the place of the wind-waterproofing layer.

Work order

2. Install the sheathing. The sheathing is fastened through Isoplat to the rafters.

3. Further work is carried out as usual, depending on the selected roofing material. Two typical schemes with flexible (soft) tiles and metal tiles are presented below.

It is necessary to create a ventilated gap (vent) between the wind-waterproof layer and the roofing material (tiles) to allow moisture to escape from the roof structure.

Table with values

Roof slope - at least 20 degrees

The distance between the rafters is 600-700 mm

Ventilated gap - at least 20 mm

Fasteners - Fe/Zn nail no less than 3x70 mm

The distance from the edge is 35 mm (so as not to damage the tongue and groove)

Fastening pitch - along the edge 100-150 mm, in the center 200 mm

Fastener consumption - 18 pcs/sheet

Sealing of extreme joints - bitumen-rubber tape, polyurethane sealant

Installation of underlay under Izoplat laminate

The underlay is laid at an angle of 45° relative to the joints of the floor coverings. This prevents the joints of the laminate or parquet board from matching the joints of the substrate. The laminate is laid directly on the backing sheets.

Since ISOTEX panels “breathe”, it is recommended to open the packaging and leave them indoors for 24 hours. For installation you will need a square, a knife, a tape measure, a pencil, staples for a stapler and the actual construction stapler. For gluing to walls, “liquid nails” assembly adhesive is used. If the ceiling or walls are made of wood, gypsum boards or concrete without significant curvature, then ISOTEX panels are attached directly to the surface using glue or staples. If the surfaces (walls or ceiling) have large unevenness, a wooden sheathing is installed under the panels. The panels are easily cut with a sharp carpet knife along a metal ruler. Cutting should be done from the side of the decorative coating. Also, any woodworking tools are suitable for cutting: jigsaw, circular saw, etc.

ISOTEX wall panels with paper coating

Installation on the lathing

For the sheathing, wooden planks with a cross-section of 19x44 mm are used. The planks must be installed in 290 mm increments (measure between the centers of the planks). The panels are fastened to the sheathing with 10-14 mm staples, intervals of no more than 100 mm.

Glue mounting

Ceiling panels

Installation on the sheathing

To make the lathing on which the ceiling panels are installed, dry wooden slats 50-100 mm wide are used. They are installed at a distance of 280 mm between the middles (axes) of the slats (Figure 1). Attach the plates to the slats with brackets, making sure that the distance between them is at least 100 mm. The length of the staple is 10-14 mm. The edge panel must be secured with nails or screws so that the wall panel covers them. The panels are attached along the sheathing, and the best result is obtained if the direction of the lighting coincides with the direction of the seams.

Installation with glue

Apply stripes of glue at a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the plate and a drop of glue in the middle of the panel in increments of 200 mm (Figure 4). Attach the panel to the ceiling or wall close to the previous plate, push it into the tongue so that the pile of glue is smeared and press without additional fastening. Panels with a textile coating are installed with glue or construction clamps directed in different directions. Detailed installation instructions are included in the product packaging.

For internal insulation premises wooden houses thermal insulation boards ISOPLAAT (Izoplat) – universal solution. This vapor-permeable environmentally friendly sound thermal insulation material Suitable for cladding horizontal and vertical surfaces. The slabs are produced in sizes 2700x1200mm, thickness 10/12/25 mm. The surface of one side of the sheet is smooth (for finishing).

Installation of ISOPLAAT boards inside the house

When installing ISOPLAAT slabs inside a house on vertical surfaces, it is necessary to install braces between the frame posts. Braces give rigidity to the entire wall structure. The slabs are attached to the sheathing or to wooden bases using staples, on concrete or brick structures- by using liquid nails or glue. Glue is used on water based(no formaldehyde).

Thermal insulation boards in 1 or 2 layers are installed on the walls and ceiling, which can also serve load-bearing structure for soft thermal insulation (ecowool). The finishing of surfaces covered with ISOPLAAT boards can be any: wallpapering, painting, cladding decorative panels ISOPLAAT. It is important to use vapor-permeable materials (primers, adhesives) when preparing surfaces, otherwise the slab will lose its ability to pass vapors.

Due to the porous structure, the slabs can absorb moisture without changing the original geometric dimensions and loss of properties. Well suited for use in country houses non-permanent residence. They do not crack and retain their properties in unheated houses provided that they are constantly ventilated.

Installation of floor underlay

A special underlay for ISOPLAAT laminate is placed on the floor, which has the same characteristics as a thermal insulation board. Can be used both for repairing old and when laying new floors. Levels the surfaces of subfloors. Thicknesses: 4 / 5 / 7 mm. Can be used under any floor as an underlay, but is more often used under floating parquet or laminate flooring.

The ISOPLAAT substrate can withstand mechanical loads of up to 20 tons per m2 without deformation.

The substrate is laid on the subfloor, retreating 10 mm from the wall. Can be installed with glue. The flooring is laid on top.

Installation of ISOPLAAT thermal insulation boards using a backing

Main advantages internal lining contour of the house with ISOPLAAT slabs (Izoplat):

Fully vapor permeable design, which allows the walls to “breathe” and creates a healthy microclimate in the room. In order for the walls to allow vapor to pass through, it is necessary during finishing and external cladding use vapor-permeable materials at home;
Additional sound and heat insulation walls, floors, ceilings;
For soft insulation they serve as a load-bearing holding structure;
Level the surfaces to be sheathed;
Light weight, easy to transport, carry and install;
Absolutely ecologically pure material . For insulation and finishing, you can also use eco-materials to create completely environmentally friendly structures;

The house can be completely covered with environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable ISOPLAAT panels, both outside and inside, while providing additional thermal insulation. Then moisture will not accumulate in the construction of walls, ceilings and floors and condensation will not fall out, preserving the original properties of the insulation and wooden elements in designs.

Looking at the statistics of visits to the “Finnish house”, I noticed that people are actively interested in reviews of Izoplat windproof boards and about these boards in general :)

I have something to say about this and quite a lot.

Let's start with the fact that Estonian Isoplaat boards are MDVP (soft wood fiber board), also known as softboard. Such material is produced not only by Izoplat, but unfortunately, it is the only one that is more or less widely represented on the market in St. Petersburg and slightly less in Moscow (at the time of writing).

At one time, the production of MDVP began in Russia under the Softboard brand (Woodway company), but before it really started, production was curtailed in 2008 and, apparently, there are no plans to resume.

It's a pity. Because in principle, MDVP material is very interesting and good.

But let's return to Izoplat. There is a backing for the laminate, thermal insulation boards, roofing and windproof boards. By and large, it's all the same thing. The only difference is in size and in the fact that windproof and roofing slabs are impregnated with paraffin to give them hydrophobic properties.

The material itself is wood “wool” compressed and bonded (according to official versions) with a natural adhesive contained in cellulose - lignin. Therefore, the material can be called “environmentally friendly”.

There is some cunning of the manufacturer here, because it is quite difficult to make a slab with similar characteristics without binders, using only lignin. It would either be fragile (like pellets) or fall apart when wet and then dry. Therefore, I am 90% sure that there is still a binder, although manufacturers carefully hide its name and its presence in general. According to indirect evidence, this may be synthetic latex. Although this does not prevent the product from being called environmentally friendly.

Among the advantages of the material is a high degree of sound insulation (although in my opinion this is not so important, given the small thickness), as well as high thermal insulation (thermal conductivity coefficient at the level of modern insulation), high vapor permeability, and also, oddly enough - his "softness"

Is isoplat a hard plate or a soft one?

The softness of an isoplat is a changeable thing.

if you look closely, you can see a “belly” on some sheets, like a wave

However, this “belly” partially disappears when the sheet dries.

In addition, after monitoring the information and talking with different knowledgeable people, I found out that the situation with the “belly” is typical for 12mm sheets. This no longer happens with 24mm.

Example 6

Dry isoplat can be cut perfectly with a regular knife with replaceable blades. It is very difficult to cut when wet. Rather, the plate begins to tear, rather than cut. It is very difficult to cut a wet slab with a knife.

Total:

Actually, what can you say? The softness of isoplaate directly depends on humidity. The wetter the material, the softer it is. But at the same time, it dries instantly and restores its original properties. In this regard, it is preferable to use a 24 mm sheet rather than a 12 mm sheet - which, frankly speaking, is completely “snotty”.

Does windproof isoplat provide rigidity to the frame?

One of the popular questions on the forums is whether isoplat gives rigidity to the frame and whether it can be used without jibs. There are different opinions.

I will express my opinion - yes, it can be used without jibs. But - 12mm only for a 1-storey building, if for a 2-storey building, then 24mm. In general, the question of the need for jibs together with an isoplat is quite specific and largely depends on the specific design of the wall.

Why do I think this? Firstly, while I was making the roof, and the frame was standing with temporary jibs, some “staggering” was felt. After sheathing with a 12mm slab and removing the temporary jibs - no longer there.

Moreover, the box without internal walls, under the roof and only covered with 12mm isoplaat, stood completely calm from autumn until next summer. Although there was enough snow in winter, and a couple of times there was even a stormy wind.

You must also understand that isoplat is not the only element that gives rigidity to the frame. In the future, interior decoration, exterior decoration, etc. will be added. I call this the “bun of arrows” principle. One arrow is easy to break, but a bunch is not.

So it is with the rigidity of the frame. Perhaps just a 12mm isoplate will not be enough. But in general, in combination with other layers of the wall, each of which makes its own contribution, the rigidity will be sufficient.

In addition, in my opinion, as paradoxical as it sounds, the softness of the windproof Isoplaat gives rigidity to the structure.

The fact is that due to its softness, the windproof plate is pressed very tightly against the racks

Stiffer boards (OSB, DSP, etc.) will not press in this way precisely because they are rigid. Thus, it turns out that MDVP has a contact area with the frame and “adhesion” to it that is much better and denser than that of more rigid slabs.

Therefore, my conclusion is that in terms of rigidity, it is quite possible to use 12-24mm isoplats without jibs. But this will depend on the number of floors of the house, the windiness of the area and other layers of the wall.

Is it possible to leave the isoplat open for the winter?

Another popular question. Officially, the manufacturer writes something about 3 months. Unofficially, it sometimes stands for years, in Estonia. By and large, in terms of strength, nothing will happen to the stove if you leave it for the winter.

But there is an interesting nuance with which I have, let’s say, exclusive experience.

I sheathed the house at the end of August, when there were heavy rains, high atmospheric humidity and other delights. After a couple of weeks, I began to notice the appearance of black dots on the sheets, very unpleasantly reminiscent of “blackness” - mold that appears on boards and some slab materials. Photos were taken in winter

Interestingly, I installed a couple of sheets already in November, when I mothballed the house for the winter. So on these sheets, there were an order of magnitude fewer black dots.

Moreover, there were strange places with stains, where there was direct contact with moisture, and in the center of the stains - the slab was completely clean. And the points themselves are purely superficial.

It's like a blur. If you peel off the surface layer a little, everything underneath is clean.

On the right is a stove installed in November, it is almost clean. On the left - installed in August. The photo was taken at the end of spring, that is, more than six months later

Moreover, at its lowest point, the wall was covered with snow all winter. So, when the snow melted, all the “blackness” disappeared with it and did not appear again

the blackness was “washed away” by the melting snow

As you can understand, this situation really stressed me out, so I launched a whole investigation into this matter, including contacting the manufacturer and the dealer, using all the connections and channels available to me.

Unfortunately, I never got a clear answer from anyone. There is an opinion that it was not mold, but the release of a certain paint pigment under the influence of humidity. Because windproof boards are specially painted (that very green color) so that they can be distinguished from ordinary boards.

This version is supported by the strange nature of the “blurs” and the fact that in the last photo you can clearly see how a dark stripe passes over the nail head. In addition, all the blackness was exclusively on the outer, painted part of the slabs.

On the other hand, we should not forget that my site is practically in a swamp and given the constant high humidity, even those things that, in theory, should not mold, were often covered with mold and blackness - for example, pieces of FSF plywood.

In the end, just in case, before installing the imitation timber, just in case, I went over all the slabs with FBS antiseptic

I can also say that “colleagues” who also used windproof isoplaat on their houses and left them for a long period without external protection, nothing like this was noticed. Or it was, but in very small, local areas.

How to fasten and cut windproof boards?

Nails with wide heads (tar paper) (40-70mm)
Staples (35-60mm)

For 12mm slabs, the fastening pitch is 10cm at the edges and 20cm in the center. For 24mm - 20 at the edges and 30 in the center.

I attached it with 40mm tar paper nails. In principle it’s ok, but there are a couple of nuances.

Not all nails are created equal - in the photo below, the nails are from different batches, both of which were sold as "galvanized". This is what happened to them in six months

Good tar nails are for some reason a very expensive item. Even if you buy in bulk.

The amount of fasteners on a 12mm sheet is depressing. Both in terms of money and time. It took me almost 3 days to fasten all the slabs, and mostly it was just blunt waving of a hammer.

Therefore, I think that the best way is to fasten the boards with a pneumatic or electric stapler, a 40-50mm staple with a wide “back”.

In addition, I already wrote that I attached the slabs when it was humid and the slabs “swelled”.

In the spring, the slab dried out, the geometry changed and the slab around the fasteners broke in several places.

If you look closely, on the right sheet the plate is broken around the fastener

Hence the moral

Fastening with staples is faster and most likely more reliable
If you are attaching a “wet” sheet, do not leave a gap between the plates, it will appear on its own when the sheet dries
Do not attach the slab too close to the edge

You can cut slabs with anything. You can use a circular saw. But I didn't like it. A lot of nasty fine wood dust.

I cut with a regular construction knife with replaceable blades. The 12mm sheet is cut amazingly, although there are a couple of “buts”. Firstly, the blades get dull very quickly. Secondly, dry sheets cut well. Wet, starting to get shaggy.

Which windproof boards to choose?

Considering the rather low cost, the question often arises of which slabs to choose?

My opinion is that 24mm is best. They are more stable in size, they are easier to attach, and they provide greater rigidity to the frame. 12mm is an “economy option” that has certain disadvantages.

You can try an option that is more labor-intensive, but slightly cheaper than a 24 mm plate. Use a simple heat-insulating board as the first layer (it’s cheaper), and a wind-proof one as the second. This will save on the cost of the material, but not much.

But you can cover the joints of the first with a second layer, obtaining a more reliable structure.

In addition, you can splurge on roofing sheets (now called universal). They have a “tenon groove”, which allows them to be mounted horizontally, without being tied to the pitch of the racks and the size of the slabs. Which is important because there will be less waste. The slabs are laid one after another according to the laminate principle. The last piece in the first row is placed first in the second and so on. And the tenon groove does not create gaps at the joints.

Conclusion

What can I say in conclusion of my “review”? Would I use MDVP again - definitely yes. For me, this is an ideal material for the outer cladding of a frame. The only serious downside is the price.

After all, in normal countries, it costs 1.5-2 times cheaper than here.

Would I use Isoplaat if there were alternatives on the MDVP market? This is not a fact. I came across a Finnish Leon slab - subjectively it was less friable and more rigid than isoplaat. Unfortunately, supplies to our market were local and quickly stopped.

In particular, the Steico Universal cooker. What is its difference? Firstly, it is again denser than isoplat. Secondly, Steico Universal has a smaller sheet format and an excellent “tenon groove”, which allows it to be mounted like a laminate, without bothering at all with the slab joints getting onto the studs and with a minimum amount of scraps. A small sheet makes the installation process easier.