What to put under the bath floor. How to properly make floors in a bathhouse: advice from experts. Main types of bath floor designs

Despite the high temperatures in the steam room, below it rarely exceeds 30 degrees, but on the floor it is constantly high humidity. Therefore, when arranging a floor in such conditions, there are some peculiarities.

In this article we will tell you about how to make a floor in a bathhouse on the ground, the preparation process and laying schemes for a wooden floor.

Types of bath floors

In most cases, a wooden floor is chosen: it is not slippery, costs less, and is easy to install.

Concrete types are usually chosen for public saunas, since intensive use would require replacing the wood every 2-3 years.

Leaky wooden floors are created in cases where it is necessary for moisture to freely pass through the gaps between the boards and be removed from the subfloor to the outside.. Compared to other types, this design has a simple construction technology. This option is suitable only for warm regions, as it does not have thermal insulation.
Leak-proof wooden floors are made from tongue-and-groove boards tightly joined together. The slope of the floor in the bathhouse is made towards the drain ladder, which will ensure the removal of moisture into the sewerage system or drain hole.
This kind of floor pie in a bathhouse allows you to make waterproofing, vapor barrier and insulation, which sets it apart from the previous option.
It makes no sense to make a leak-proof floor in the steam room, since the price of the structure increases greatly, and there will not be a lot of water there. For ease of cleaning, you can make the floor slope on both sides.
Concrete floor screed has an advantage over wooden types in its high durability. The screed will serve you for 30-50 years, and the tree for less than 10 years.
Although the cost of installing it is higher, in terms of performance characteristics, concrete greatly outperforms wood.

Floor design

As a rule, installation of the floor in a bathhouse in a steam room is done at an elevation relative to the zero level of the finished floor. It is enough to raise it by 7-10 cm and the heat will be better retained in the steam room.

In the washing department, on the contrary, the height of the floor in the bathhouse is made lower so that water does not penetrate into other rooms.

Basic materials

It is believed that in the question of which floor is better in a bathhouse, larch is out of competition. In terms of hardness and wear resistance, it is comparable to oak, and moisture only makes it stronger. The only disadvantage of using it is its high cost.

Similar boards made of pine or spruce will cost 2-3 times less. If it is possible to use larch for reasonable money, then it is better to choose it. If not, then you can buy tongue-and-groove boards of birch, pine, spruce, fir, and alder. The subfloor in the bathhouse can be made of pine to save money.

An important rule to follow is to lay only dry boards. Raw wood will greatly change its size and shape during use.

The thicker the board, the more it will deform. Boards 21-25mm thick will change the least in size, but they will sag. To correct this, you can lay the joists more frequently. The best option is 35 mm boards with a width of 12 cm.

For insulation, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are most often used.

Hydro- and vapor barrier is made from a vapor barrier membrane, such as Izospan. Its advantage is that it allows moisture to pass through only in one direction. Thanks to this, on the one hand, moisture does not pass inside, and on the other hand, excess condensation and steam are removed. This allows you to keep the insulation always dry and it does not lose its characteristics.

Also in this case we will use:

Beam 70*100 mm;
Logs 50*180 mm;
Skull bars 40*40 mm;
Plywood or cutting boards 20-25 mm thick to make a double floor.

Removing the old floor

If you are re-laying the old covering, then first of all you need to dismantle the old floor of the frame bath.

Will need to be removed upper layer soil, about 25 centimeters, to get rid of the fungus that has got into the ground. Old boards should be burned immediately.

Advice!
Concrete walls can be heated with a construction gas gun to destroy all fungus.
Additionally, it needs to be treated with Anti-Mold to remove the remaining pores of the fungus.

Below the floor level, elastic coating waterproofing is made.
A layer of sand backfill is laid on the ground, leveled, and carefully compacted.
Then fiberglass and Izospan vapor barrier are laid on the sand. They need to be sprinkled with another layer of sand on top. This is necessary in order to protect the lower part of the floorboards from moisture, fungus and rot. The insulation sheets must be glued together with tape.

Advice!
If a rat hole is found in the foundation, it must be sealed with concrete with the addition of liquid and broken glass.

Pie and gender features

In this example, floors in a bathhouse are used on the ground. To obtain the desired level of elevation, 70*100 beams are mounted on the posts before laying the logs.

They will take on part of the load, distribute it evenly, increase strength and simplify leveling the base.

First of all, waterproofing consisting of two layers of roofing material is laid on the foundation and brick pillars.
Then the supporting beams are laid. Their edges will lie on the foundation, and in the center they will be supported by 1-3 columns.
Logs are attached to the corners on top of the beams. They should be cut on both sides along the length to the center by 2 cm to create a slope.
Skull blocks are nailed to the bottom of the joist, forming an inverted "T". They are needed to secure the subfloor, so there is no need for special strength; any screws or nails will do.
The subfloor boards are laid, and a vapor barrier membrane with an overlap of 20-30 cm is attached on top of them. Then it will need to be glued together with the waterproofing of the walls.

On the subfloor and covered with a vapor barrier. It is attached to the joists using a stapler. The joints are taped with tape.
Finally, the finished flooring is made from tongue-and-groove boards. To hide the mounting points, they are fastened with self-tapping screws into a groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Note!
A ventilation gap of 2-3 cm must be provided under the finished floor.
To do this, you can use higher logs, or stuff additional counter-lattice bars on them after attaching the vapor barrier to the insulation.

Manufacturing of supporting posts

To prevent deflection of the support beams from high loads, you need to make additional supports (chairs) in weak spots. Naturally, the weakest points will be the center of the beams and the place under the stove. Chairs can be made of wood, brick, concrete.

Instructions on how to do it concrete pillars with your own hands:

To make concrete pillars, mark their installation locations and dig holes 40 cm deep.
At the bottom of the pit you need to pour a 25 cm layer of sand and crushed stone for the substrate and compact them well.
From the boards, make a formwork approximately 25*25 cm (the size of 1 brick) and a height of up to . Place roofing felt on the inner walls of the formwork.

Advice!
You can make permanent formwork for columns from asbestos-cement, sewer PVC pipes or twisted roofing felt.

Tie the reinforcement cage in each column with wire from rods with a diameter of 10 mm.

Prepare a solution of cement, sand and fine gravel (in proportions 1:3:5).
Before pouring, make an embed in the center of the column for convenient fastening of the beams. It is best made from a threaded pin.
Fill the columns to the same level and leave them to dry for at least a few days. They will gain full strength only in a month.

Installation of subfloor

Advice!
Treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic before starting work.

Lay and secure the support beams to the foundation. Please ensure that a temperature gap of 1 cm is maintained at the edges of the joists and beams at the junction with the wall. They are attached to the foundation with 12*140 mm anchor bolts.
To make it easier to cut the remaining joists at the same angle for drainage, use one of them as a template.

When laying the subfloor, you can use almost any boards, since it is only needed for laying thermal insulation. However, be sure to treat them with an antiseptic and remove the bark before laying.
We fasten the waterproofing to the joists with a stapler every 10-15 cm with an overlap and overlap on the walls.
The insulation is laid close to each other, with the joints offset. Mineral wool should not be crushed, but cut exactly to the size of the cells.

Then we attach another layer in the same way. steam-waterproofing to the lags.

Finished floor installation

We fasten the first sheathing board with a self-tapping screw at a distance of 1-2 cm from the wall. Try to do this as close to the wall as possible to hide the cap with the baseboard.
We fasten subsequent boards into the groove to the previous one. To fit them tightly together, make a hammer with a spike. Through it you can knock the boards with a hammer without fear of damaging the joining elements.
If an even stronger connection is required, then make pegs with a spike. By nailing metal staples to the joists, you can use them to wedge the boards, as shown in the photo.

To hide the heads of the screws, all subsequent boards are fastened from the side of the groove, screwing the screws into the joists at an angle. To ensure that the boards are pressed tightly and do not crack, you need to drill holes before doing this.
When installing the last board, it will need to be cut to width with a circular saw. It must be secured in the same way as the first one, with self-tapping screws on top.

Conclusion

Having made a wooden floor in frame bath, you can be sure that it will last for at least 10 years of active use. If you want to make a heated floor system, lay a tiled floor in a bathhouse, or make a drain, then you need to make a screed.

The video in this article shows DIY installation floor in the bathhouse.

During the construction of a bathhouse Special attention must be given to the floor.

It must be resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, so choose the material flooring should be done very carefully.

In this article we will talk about what types of bath floors there are, how to build a concrete and wooden floor with your own hands, and what materials are needed for this.

Types of bath floors

In addition to resistance to aggressive external influences, such as high temperature and excessive importance, the floor must have a whole system for rapid outflow of water.

Bathroom flooring varies:

By material, from which the floor is made;
By functional features.

The main condition when choosing a material is its resistance to high temperature.

How to make a warm water floor on a wooden floor:

Wooden covering is the most popular among those who like to take a steam bath. This option is one of the cheapest, but it is short-lived and deteriorates within 10 years. If the drain is improperly equipped, the boards begin to rot faster and emit an unpleasant odor;
Concrete floor is more durable, but without good insulation on top it will be cold enough for bare feet, so additional flooring must be placed on top of it;
Tiled floor often used in showers or rest areas. This is due to the fact that it does not absorb moisture and is very easy to clean with any disinfectants.

Currently, more and more often in the construction of baths they use Self-leveling floors with high performance characteristics.

Mixtures for self-leveling floors are created on new technologies and consist of a polymer base with inclusions of gypsum and cement.

Enough combine them with water and pour them on the floor to smooth out any unevenness. They are durable, safe and beautiful in the interior.

The advantages of self-leveling flooring are:

flat and smooth surface;
durability, the operation of the self-leveling floor can reach 50 years;
resistance to impacts environment , that is, it is not susceptible to high humidity and hot temperatures, as well as to chemical alkalis and acids;
safety for human health.

When constructing a concrete floor, a prerequisite is the presence foundation around the perimeter. A concrete floor will be poured onto it in the future. For these construction work we will need:

concrete mixer;
building level;
shovel;
buckets and wheelbarrow.

When constructing a wooden floor, it is necessary to lay on wooden joists subfloor, insulate it with a layer of heat-insulating material, and then lay out the floor surface with treated finishing boards.

For this, the necessary tools will be:

hammer;
plane;
tape measure and pencil for measurements and design calculations.

Making a concrete floor in a bathhouse with your own hands

A necessary condition for the construction of a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the presence of an established foundation for sauna stove(read about how to do it) and displayed drainage system regulating the outflow of water.

Device concrete covering is a rather complex process, so you should follow a certain sequence of actions:

First of all, you need to dig a drain hole the size 1×1 meter in the place where there will be a shower (washing room) and steam room. After which the dug hole is filled with broken bricks or large crushed stone to a depth of 15 cm. In this case, it is necessary to compact this layer so that it slopes towards the drain by approximately 10 – 15 %;
In the bathhouse you must also take care of sewer system. After use, water should flow into a special pit (depression), from where it will be pumped out by special drainage pumps (read about how to choose it). This pit is dug to a depth of at least 2 meters not far from the bathhouse, and is lined on all sides with clay that does not allow water to pass through. The deeper the pit, the faster wastewater will flow into it;
The final stage in floor construction is preparing concrete mortar in a concrete mixer. Packages of cement usually indicate the proportions of materials, however, the optimal ratio of sand to cement 3 to 1, that is, for 1 kg of cement, we need 3 kg of sand. Water is gradually poured into the mixer, equal in volume to the amount of sand. After preparing the solution, it is poured onto the bathhouse floor to a height 5 cm. On construction markets a special leveling mixture of polymer compounds, cement and gypsum is sold, which makes it easier to level a concrete floor at home. It is enough to dilute the dry purchased mixture with water and pour it onto the concrete floor. It has high fluidity and will independently smooth out almost all unevenness in the floor. A week is enough for this mixture to dry completely.

Making a wooden floor in a bathhouse with your own hands

The wooden flooring in the bathhouse is built using special floorboards, which are laid on the logs– special cross beams.

The construction of a wooden floor should take place in five main stages:

Initially, you need to dig a hole around the perimeter with a steamy depth 40 – 60 cm and fill its edges and base with concrete mortar. This will require about 10 liters of solution. After it has hardened, approximately 3 – 4 days, it is necessary to lay a thick layer of crushed stone and sand on the base of the floor 5 cm, compacted well;
Special brick columns of size 25 × 25 cm, on which the wooden logs will be held. The main requirement for the number of bricks used is that the columns protrude above the pit by about a couple of centimeters;
For the construction of a wooden leaky floor can be used uncut wood planks with a smooth outer surface. It is necessary to cut the boards depending on the size of the bath, after which they can be laid on the logs. When laying the first board, it is necessary to leave a gap near the wall for ventilation around 3 cm. The first uncut board is nailed with ventilation in mind. Subsequent boards are nailed with a mandatory gap of about 5 mm. To preserve its performance properties, the wood must be treated with a double layer of drying oil or other protective material;
When constructing a non-leaking floor, special wooden beams must be attached to the joists. 50x50 cm, on which a subfloor with waterproofing will be installed. It consists of several layers that ensure leveling and insulation of the floor before finishing with boards. When laying a subfloor, edged and non-standard boards treated with antiseptics and drying oil can be used. It is necessary to put a heat-insulating layer of roofing material and expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) on the rough boards 10 cm thick, another layer of roofing material is placed on top;
On top of the rough covering, tongue and groove boards with a thickness of approximately 15-20 cm. Each board should be nailed to the joists with several nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. We will need from 3 to 5 screws or nails, their number depends on the thickness of the boards.

Important! It is not recommended to lay the boards too close to each other, as with high humidity they will swell and may begin to crack. Optimal distance between dry tongue-and-groove boards when laying the floor in a bathhouse there is 3 - 5 cm, since with high humidity they can swell several times.

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse

Any bathhouse should retain heat and heat from the stove for a long time. In addition, the floor in the steam room should be warm, but not hot either.

Therefore, when building a bathhouse, special attention should be paid floor insulation.

The main materials used in thermal insulation, are:

expanded clay. It is made from natural clay shale, which is fired in a kiln at a maximum temperature of 1000 to 1400°. As a result, expanded clay has a number of advantages over other materials: moisture resistance, strength and for a long time operation;
polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam are good insulation materials, preventing moisture and heat from entering the room;
perlite It is quite light and has practically no thermal conductivity, so it is often used to insulate the floor in a bathhouse. This material is a volcanic rock, very light and crumbly. At the same time, perlite does not burn and is resistant to aggressive environmental factors;
glass wool used for insulating concrete floors. Its fibers can absorb moisture, thereby reducing their thermal insulation properties.

Let's look at the main options insulation bath floor:

Insulation with perlite. To prepare a heat-insulating mixture, you need to mix perlite and water in a ratio of 2 to 1. It is necessary to stir the solution until a film of water begins to appear on the surface of the mixture. This is an indicator of the readiness of the solution. After preparing the solution using shovels, apply a thin layer of perlite mixture to the floor covering, level it and leave to dry for a week. After the thermal insulation layer has completely dried, the floor is again filled with concrete mortar to a height of 5 cm;
Foam insulation the most popular option due to its low cost and ease of use. Foam boards are lightweight and do not rot. Polystyrene foam is laid out on the floor as a layer between concrete pours in two rows, the gaps between the plates are filled polyurethane foam or scraps of foam material. Top foam boards is placed reinforcement mesh, which is filled with concrete;
Insulation using expanded clay. Depending on the load the floor covering will experience during operation, it depends required amount expanded clay. Experts recommend covering expanded clay with a layer of at least 10 cm.

Before pouring a thermal insulation layer onto concrete or a rough wooden floor, it is necessary to install special beacons along which the floor will be leveled.

After the concrete has completely dried, the floor is covered with expanded clay, and care must be taken to ensure that the floor surface is perfectly flat and smooth.

The final stage is the final pouring of the concrete solution to a height 5 cm.

Advice! When purchasing expanded clay, you should take several types of expanded clay from different sizes granules This is necessary for better bonding between them.

How to treat the floor in a bathhouse from rotting

Most often, when constructing a floor in a bathhouse, they are used coniferous trees.

This wood contains resins, protecting the floor from rapid rotting and unpleasant odors.

However, in order to extend their service life, it is advisable to monitor the condition of the boards and treat antibacterial, antifungal means.

Construction stores sell a large number of specialized bath impregnation, which must be used to treat the floor regularly.

Before starting to use the bathhouse, it is necessary to treat the flooring with antibacterial and moisture-resistant materials several times a day for a week so that they are well absorbed into the wooden boards.

Thus, regardless of what type of floor you choose for your bath, a necessary condition During its construction there will be thermal insulation and waterproofing. Then the bath will serve you for many years, bringing joy and giving strength.

A step-by-step guide to building a bathhouse floor, you can watch in this video.

The floor in the steam room is the most critical moment when building a bathhouse. This article will discuss how to do bath floor with your own hands. Wooden and concrete floors are the main types that are used in a modern Russian bathhouse. This time we will talk about wooden non-leaking floors using the example of a steam room with dimensions of 2.5x3.0 meters.

Basic information

Leaking a wooden floor, as its name implies, is made when it is necessary for water to pass freely through the gaps between the floorboards and be removed from the underground space to the outside. Compared to other types, a leaky floor has a simple design and, accordingly, is the easiest to manufacture. It can only be used in regions with warm climates, as it does not have thermal insulation. In any case, when building a bathhouse with your own hands, I would recommend being careful when choosing this type of floor.

Leak-proof A wooden floor is made from tightly fitted tongue and groove boards. In the washing compartment, it is made inclined towards the drain ladder, which ensures free discharge of waste water into the general sewer system or drainage pit. For a steam room, making a drain does not make sense, as this will significantly increase the cost of its production. After all, when visiting a steam room, we won’t pour buckets of water there! For better cleaning of the steam room, you can make a double-sided floor slope - this is quite enough for its convenient maintenance. When installing a leak-proof floor, insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier are done, which distinguishes it favorably from the above type.

Concrete the floor has an undoubted advantage over wood. Its service life is 30-50 years, while a wooden floor will last no more than 10 years. Although the cost of its construction is higher, its performance properties are significantly superior to any type made of wood. If desired, it can be easily insulated, put ceramic tiles and drain the water. An excellent solution would be to install a heated floor in the steam room or washing department, which will greatly facilitate their maintenance.

Description of the floor design

As a rule, the floor in the steam room is made with an elevation relative to the level of the finished floor (zero mark). It is enough to raise it by 70-100 mm, and an important goal will be achieved - maintaining heat in the steam room. And, conversely, in the washing department the floor is made below the level of the finished floor in order to prevent water from entering other rooms of the bathhouse. In accordance with this, the design of the reduced floor for the steam room has its own characteristics.

Basic materials

Finish floor. The best material The floor in the bathhouse is larch. Its hardness and wear resistance are comparable to oak. The only obstacle to its use is its price. The same board made of pine will cost 2-3 times less. If it is possible to get larch by paying the appropriate money for it, then it is - best option. Otherwise, you can use tongue and groove boards made of pine, fir, alder and birch. For elements located below the finished floor, pine can be used.

It is important to note that when laying the floor, the boards must be well dried. During the operation of the steam room, damp boards will dry out, changing their geometry: bending and twisting. This may be the reason for the appearance of gaps between the boards or the tearing out of screws at the points of attachment to the joists. The thicker the board, the greater the deformation forces. A board with a thickness of 20-25 mm has the least tendency to deform, but its strength properties are lower. This disadvantage is compensated for by laying additional joists. In our example, a well-dried tongue-and-groove board 36 mm thick and 120 mm wide was used to lay the finished floor.

For insulation We take basalt wool “Rockwool” 80x600x1200 mm. We will make waterproofing and vapor barrier from windproof waterproofing membrane type "Tyvek Housewrap". The advantage of this film is that it has a one-way throughput, due to which outside does not allow moisture to pass through, and from the inside it allows accumulated moisture and steam to freely escape from the insulation. More details about the materials used for insulation can be found in the article.

Rest wooden structures we make from dried lumber:

Backing beams 70x100x2960 mm (thickness, width, length);
Logs 50x180x2460 mm;
Skull block 40x40 mm;
For subfloor unedged board or waste edged boards 20-25 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide.
board or waste edged board for subfloor 20-25 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide.

Composition and design features of the floor

To achieve the required elevation, in our example, support beams with a cross section of 70x100 mm were used. They will greatly help when installing floor joists, when it will be necessary to align them relative to the horizontal level. In addition, the floor structure will receive additional strength, since the support beams will take on part of the load on the floor.

Below is a list of components, the order of assembly of which corresponds to the order of laying the floor.

The outer support beams are laid on a surface covered with two layers of rolled roofing felt. The central beam rests on opposite walls with two ends strip foundation, and the central part is on the surface of two support pillars.
On top of the support beams there are logs, which are cut to length with a slope of 20 mm on both sides towards the center. Skull blocks are nailed to the joists below for installing a subfloor on them.
A moisture-proof membrane with an outlet of 20-25 cm is laid on top of the subfloor for subsequent gluing with the waterproofing of the walls of the steam room.
Basalt wool mats are laid on the subfloor boards on top of the membrane, over which a layer of moisture and vapor barrier membrane is stretched.
The structure is completed with a finished floor made of tongue and groove boards.

Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that there is a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm between the lower (inner) surface of the finished floor and the vapor barrier membrane. As mentioned above, it should have outlets on each side within 20-25 cm for connection with vapor barrier film under the clapboard. Moreover, this must be done in such a way that the air space under it is connected to the air space under the finished floor. Only in this case will free air circulation be ensured both under the floor and under the lining. Hot air circulating through ventilation gaps sheathed wall, will draw out colder and wet air from underground space. The floor will be dry and not susceptible to rotting.

When installing logs and support beams, make sure that there is a gap of at least 10 mm between them and the walls of the steam room. When the log house settles, this is enough so that it does not affect the entire floor structure.

When laying the subfloor, be sure to remove the bark, if any. After all, we don’t want bark beetles to get there.

Methods of fastening structural elements

The quality of the work done depends on how we carry out these important operations. Before you begin installing the floor, you need to clearly understand what fasteners to use and how to connect all the structural elements to each other. Below are possible mounting methods.

Manufacturing of support pillars

To prevent the logs from deflecting due to the weight of people or steam room equipment, it is necessary to make them support pillars(chairs) in the weakest places. The weakest point, naturally, will be the center of the joist. In our example, it is enough to install two supports with a cross section of 250x250 mm along the central longitudinal axis of the steam room. Chairs can be made of wood, brick or concrete. We will consider the last option.

Preparing the base

Mark places for support tables.
Dig a hole 400 mm deep. The dimensions of the pit in plan should be such that it would be easy to install formwork from edged boards.
Place a layer of sand at the bottom of the hole, pour water on it, and compact it with an unnecessary piece of wood. The thickness of the compacted layer should be about 100 mm.
Pour 150 mm thick crushed stone on top of the sand layer and compact it well too. As a result, we should have a total layer with a height of 250 mm.
Build formwork from edged boards for a square post 250 x 250 mm, inner surface which to cover with rolled roofing felt. The height of the formwork should ensure that concrete is poured to the top level of the strip foundation.
Inside the formwork, lay steel reinforcement from a ø10 mm bar in the form of a flat lattice with four cells 75 x 75 mm. Tie the rods together with steel wire. Place broken bricks under the grating so that the distance from the reinforcement to the crushed stone layer is about 50 mm, and from the walls of the formwork no more than 50 mm.

Pouring concrete

Prepare concrete mortar in the ratio of cement: sand: fine gravel – 1: 3: 5. The consistency of the solution should be above average, allowing it to be compacted well.
Pour a 50 mm thick layer of concrete and compact it. Place steel reinforcement on it from a ø10 mm bar in the form of a flat lattice with four cells 75 x 75 mm. Tie the rods together with steel wire. Make sure that the distance from the reinforcement to the formwork walls is no more than 50 mm.
Place the rest of the concrete mortar on top of the reinforcement, compact it, level it on top of the formwork and make the screed with an even block or lath.
Leave for a couple of days for the concrete to set. When the concrete is sufficiently strong, it’s time to begin installing the floor.
All subsequent work on installing the support beams and, in general, all the logs in general, depends on how the support pillars are made and their level relative to the upper level of the bathhouse foundation. Therefore, in order to make your work easier, the supporting platforms of the pillars should be as close as possible to the conventional plane passing along the upper surfaces of the walls of the bathhouse foundation.

The procedure for arranging the floor in a bathhouse

Before installation begins, all wooden elements of the floor structure must be treated in several layers. Treat the support areas of the pillars and the upper surface of the strip foundation with liquid tar and lay the rolled roofing felt in 2 layers.

Installation of support beams

The floor in the bathhouse performs a number of functions that distinguish it from the flooring in living rooms. Not only does it allow free movement while constantly being hydrated, but it is also part of sewer system. Therefore, before installing such a floor, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of its installation.

Peculiarities

Before choosing a floor for a bath, you need to consider some nuances. The first thing that is important to consider is what season the premises will be used. If the bathhouse will be used all year round, then it usually houses showers, a dressing room, an additional steam room and rest rooms. In such a bathhouse, a permanent floor is installed: an insulated covering with ventilation and drainage. It is enough to make the floor in the summer sauna leaky.

Installation of a leaking floor is carried out by laying boards measuring 1.5 meters by 50 millimeters. The boards are laid on top of logs - beams with a diameter of about 150 mm. When installing joists, it is necessary to take into account the type of base. For example, for a columnar foundation, the logs must be supported on a foundation beam. The logs are laid sequentially, starting from the shortest wall, the beams are placed at a distance of about 60 cm. The places where the logs come into contact with the foundation are treated with bitumen mastic or roofing felt to ensure insulation.

Next, the subfloor is installed - a layer of soil is laid on top of the boards. The material and its quantity are selected based on the type of foundation soil. If the soil absorbs water well, then the subfloor is covered with a layer of crushed stone about 25 centimeters thick. Clay soils, which swell when wet and do not conduct moisture well, must be covered with a material that allows water to drain. Then lay the floor boards, leaving a distance of 2 cm around the entire perimeter.

There should also be a small gap between the floorboards. The planks are fixed to the beams with nails. To provide protection from dampness and prevent the development of fungus, the coating is treated with drying oil.

A leaky floor is also called a “cold” floor because its temperature is always low. The disadvantages of this coating are that it is recommended to install it only in regions with a mild, warm climate. Rooms with such a floor are almost impossible to use in the cold season, because it cannot be insulated. However, there is an option to install the stove below floor level. This design allows the boards to be heated and better protected from rotting.

The process of creating a non-leaking floor is technologically more complex and resource-intensive. Before laying the logs, the subfloor must be installed. Next, the wooden flooring is covered with layers of waterproofing coating. To reduce heat loss from the premises, the floor must be protected with insulation boards made of mineral wool or fiberglass. To prevent natural insulation materials from losing their properties under the influence of water, a moisture-resistant coating is laid on top.

The subfloor is filled with a layer of bitumen and prepared for the installation of floorboards. The technology for laying boards depends on the purpose of the room. The floorboards in the steam room should face the direction of the light beam. In the dressing room, the flooring is laid in the direction of travel. It is important not to forget to leave a space of at least one centimeter along the contour of the room. This distance provides ventilation.

A Russian bathhouse with a heated floor resembles a pie in terms of its drainage system. The boards are placed at a slight slope, which ensures liquid drainage into the built-in collector. The moisture then flows through the pipes and is removed outside the extension. The advantages of heated floors are that the coating is additionally protected from the cold, and the moisture removal system allows you to increase the shelf life of the boards.

Which coating should you choose?

The indoors of a classic Russian bathhouse have high humidity, and the temperature can reach 65 degrees. Under such conditions, there is a high probability of the floor rotting, especially the wooden covering. It is important to understand that each bathhouse has different operating conditions and the coating material and operating technology can vary significantly in each room. In addition to individual characteristics, the floor must have some general physical and mechanical characteristics.

The coating must be resistant to critical temperature changes: from above the floor interacts with hot water, and cold soil acts on it from below. Also, the flooring must withstand both mechanical stress and contact with chemical reagents of detergents. A mandatory characteristic of the coating is resistance to constant interaction with moisture and saturated water vapor. It is important to remember that floorboards should be non-slip and require little maintenance. In addition to the above mechanical properties, the floor in the bathhouse should look aesthetically pleasing.

The classic flooring is wood flooring. This method of laying bath floors is still used today. This is not only a tribute to tradition - wood has a high heat capacity and beautiful appearance. A significant drawback of boards is their low moisture resistance: the coating is susceptible to rotting and requires additional protection. Before deciding to install a wooden floor, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each tree species. For example, oak becomes too slippery when exposed to moisture.

Concrete flooring is no less popular than its wooden counterpart. Cement screed has a high mechanical strength, which ensures a long service life. It is important to understand that a finishing coating must be laid on the concrete base. Craftsmen advise using tiles. Ceramics are easy to install and use. A significant disadvantage of a concrete floor is the need for thermal insulation. Also, such a floor must be laid on a slope to ensure water drainage.

When building baths, preference is increasingly being given to laying stone and tile floors. Ceramics perfectly imitates a natural stone and has a relatively low cost. In addition, this coating is durable and waterproof. An important point is that the joints between ceramic fragments require additional processing to protect them from dampness and prevent the formation of fungus.

For the right choice flooring, you need to take into account all the operational features of the selected room. The steam room can have concrete, stone or ceramic floors - these materials can withstand extreme conditions. It is unacceptable to use coatings containing formaldehyde. When exposed to water and high temperature, such materials release toxic substances.

If you want to decorate the floor with paint or varnish, then you need to take into account some restrictions. Most safe way decoration of a wooden covering - the use of water-based or dispersion acrylic paint. The use of oil paint or alkyd composition in the steam room is strictly prohibited.

The requirements for the floor in a washing room are not as high as for the flooring in a steam room. However, the spill coating must withstand prolonged contact with water and detergents. Floors must also withstand critical temperature changes. These requirements are fully satisfied by ceramics. Wood is also actively used in washing, but it must be treated with a special impregnation or varnished.

The floor in the dressing room has virtually no contact with water and steam, so there is no need to increase its water resistance. The dressing room contains a firebox, so the floor covering must be protected from fire and overheating. As a rule, boards are laid here. Mounted in front of the firebox metal plate measuring 60 by 90 centimeters. This device is necessary to protect the floor from falling sparks and fire.

In the rest room you can lay carpet or linoleum. The floors in this room should be comfortable and cozy. The main requirement for such a coating is that it must retain heat well. Since rest rooms do not come into contact with moisture and cannot withstand temperature changes, they do not require additional protection. They can also have raised areas on the floor or shelves to place your feet, which will add comfort.

Necessary tools and components

In order to obtain a high-quality floor with a long service life, it is necessary to follow the installation technique and materials preparation technology. The success of installation largely depends on the correct choice of tools. The floor can be installed under the guidance of a specialist or independently.

Some tools needed to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse:

The correct screed cannot be laid without the use of special rakes. These devices level the concrete mass during the laying process. It is important to understand that the coating should be as smooth as possible: violations in technology can lead to serious consequences.

A laser or water level will help to obtain the surface of the required evenness. It can also be used to vary the angle of the boards. The grooves for water drainage must be smooth: no level differences along the flow of liquid are allowed. Such points must be corrected both at the initial stages of installation and as the slabs are laid.

Trowels are needed to spread cement over the entire surface from the far corner of the room to the edges. With the help of trowels, impregnation or varnish is also applied when finishing the surface. Trowels come with both pointed and semicircular edges. Rounded edges the tool does not leave visible marks on the screed.

Cement grater. This device is necessary to obtain a flat surface. It is necessary to make circular movements along the surface of the laid mass. With their help, excess material is also removed and an even coating is obtained.

Flats are also necessary to obtain a smooth surface. Thanks to their design, they are able to cover and smooth large area, rather than graters or trowels. The trowels are used for global work of rolling out cement over the entire surface. Among such tools are corner-type trowels - they are used to obtain a smooth coating at the junction of the floor and the wall.

To mix expanded clay or expanded clay concrete efficiently, you need a concrete mixer and a container for the solution. The mixing technology depends on its composition and installation method. Before working directly with cement, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the technology and mode of preparation of the mixture. This process can be done manually, but there is a risk of getting a non-uniform mass. An incorrectly mixed composition will not provide the required performance properties of the floor.

Also don't forget about simple tools. A shovel will greatly facilitate the process of spreading the concrete mass over the surface. A Velcro towel or any other cloth material is necessary for cleaning tools while working. An even screed will only be achieved when working with cleaned equipment. You should also have a container of water on hand.

To install a wooden floor, you need a different set of tools.

Metal profile for laying boards. A special grid is mounted from small steel gutters onto which the boards are laid. Such a frame is necessary to ensure that the sauna floor is laid evenly and holds tightly. Profiles are sold complete with special fasteners.

An electric screwdriver and drill are needed to secure the boards. They can be replaced with a metal hammer, but this will require a lot of time and effort. In addition to ordinary screws, staples are used to fix the boards.

To obtain beams of the required size, use an electric plane and a wood saw. The work of cutting wood is quite dusty, so the craftsmen recommend laying it on the floor working area mat or sheets of newspaper. This will significantly reduce subsequent cleaning time.

Any flooring job requires a level. The laser device is much easier to use and helps to achieve even coverage or the desired slope.
The final wood layer often needs to be varnished or painted. To do this, you need to stock up on rollers and brushes. Also, many materials are sticky and toxic, so all work must be done with gloves.

How to do it yourself?

The installation of a leaky floor begins with the installation of logs. These can be wooden beams or metal beams. Before installation, logs must be treated with a special antiseptic that increases their corrosion resistance. The choice of antiseptics is large, but some prefer to use used machine oil as an analogue. If wood beams are chosen for the installation of logs, then they must be dried. To do this, the wood is left for some time in a room with a humidity of 10 to 12 percent. To save time, you can buy ready-made wood after drying in a chamber.

The logs are laid parallel to the smallest wall. If the room in the bathhouse is large enough, it is recommended to create a rigid frame. To do this, reinforced concrete piles are installed under the logs in increments of no more than one meter.

For correct installation lag has a step by step guide:

It is necessary to remove the top layer of soil from the installation site. Next, lay out a layer of sand or crushed stone 10 to 15 centimeters thick and reinforce the system with mesh.
Piles are laid from bricks or fragments of reinforced concrete slabs. This design will provide the base with the necessary load-bearing capacity.
The system must be treated with bitumen mastic to protect it from water.

The fixed piles are covered with two layers of waterproofing. Sheets should not be laid too close to the walls. It is necessary to leave a gap of at least 4 cm around the entire perimeter. This will ensure ventilation of the resulting structure.

Next, the water drainage system is installed. Moisture must be drained away from the foundation. To properly arrange drainage, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the foundation soil. If the soil absorbs moisture well, then it is necessary to remove a layer of soil from the entire area of the bathhouse and cover the surface with crushed stone. On soils with low drainage capacity, you need to dig a hole about 40 cm deep and install a moisture drainage system into it. A special clay backfill ensures uniform water flow. With this method, floors must be laid at a slope of 10 degrees towards the water intake.

The underfloor heating boards are processed - they are hewn from the front side and leveled. A gap of two centimeters is left between the masonry and the wall for implementation. natural ventilation. The boards are laid at right angles to the location of the joists. This technology provides the necessary strength of the future floor. It is necessary to maintain the same distance between the boards: craftsmen advise using fragments of plywood for these purposes.

Warm floors can also be laid on joists. Using the previously described step-by-step actions, beams or steel pipes. To obtain a surface slope, four millimeter cuts are made in the joists. It is not allowed to cut joists adjacent to the walls. The heated floor drainage system is excellent. A hole with a depth of at least 300 millimeters and dimensions of 400 by 400 millimeters is dug between two supports.

The walls of the resulting pit must be reinforced with concrete and coated with bitumen. The drain pipe is installed at the bottom of the pit with an indentation of two centimeters. The drainage pipe must be at least 15 centimeters in diameter. PVC is perfect for these purposes.

The boards are laid starting from the rough layer. Next comes the waterproofing coating, laid out overlapping. The joints are not coated big amount bitumen mastic or glued with tape. After fixing the waterproofing, a layer of insulation is laid. In this case, craftsmen advise paying attention to mineral or environmental wool and expanded clay slabs. A more environmentally friendly type of insulation is a mixture of sawdust and PVA.

It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier between the finishing coating and the insulation. It is also important to leave a gap of at least fifteen millimeters between the layers: an exhaust pipe is passed through the hole. The boards of the final layer should not have cracks in the joints, so builders prefer tongue-and-groove boards. You must not forget about installing the drainage system.

Laying the concrete screed is carried out in several stages. The first concrete layer is poured to a height of no more than six centimeters and left until completely dry. Thermal insulation of standard thickness is laid on a slightly damp layer. To provide the coating with the necessary rigidity, the insulation is covered reinforced mesh. Last layer fills are laid at an angle of 10 to 15 degrees to ensure drainage.

The finishing layer, as a rule, does not exceed nine centimeters in thickness. Next, the surface can be decorated with ceramics or plank masonry. It is important not to forget that the coating must be resistant to temperature changes and have a specified strength. After installing the floor, the walls are polished.

Wood

The plank covering is perfect for installing a leaky floor in a steam room. Wood has good technical characteristics and requires relatively little labor. Experts advise complete beginners to opt for a cold floor. There is no need to create an insulated “pie” of the foundation and lay utility lines. A leaking floor in a steam room requires only simple drainage.

The flooring does not need to be fixed to the joists, as the covering must be regularly removed and dried in the open air. This design helps keep the material in good condition even when the floor frequently interacts with hot water. The board requires replacement 4-6 years after commissioning. If you still want to fix the coating on the joists, then the boards must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic. A cold floor made of larch or pine is considered the most optimal price-quality ratio. Oak flooring does not have sufficient roughness and can cause injury.

Leak-resistant wood flooring is suitable for year-round use. In the washing department and steam room, such a coating will last up to 10 years if you properly install the rough layer and do not neglect installation insulating materials. It is not recommended to paint boards. Chemical composition can clog wood pores, which will give the coating a persistent chemical aroma.

Also, paint does not help protect the boards from rotting. Craftsmen advise leaving the surface clean, but sanding it well. Natural wood has a pleasant smell, and the aroma of pine needles is considered beneficial to health. In order to protect the coating from rotting, special compounds are used. But an important point is the drainage system.

Concrete

Concrete has a long service life, which makes it a leader among materials for installing bath floors. A properly laid coating can last up to 50 years and does not require special operating conditions. Concrete screed is not prone to rotting, because the development of microorganisms in concrete is impossible. Caring for this floor does not require special measures or the purchase of expensive products.

The screed can be poured and used as a finished floor covering, or tiles can be laid on top. It is laid on the ground or logs. To strengthen the foundation for underfloor heating, screw piles are often used. An insulating “pie” is already installed on these piles and a screed is poured. A concrete floor requires a lot of time and resources because it is a complex multi-layer structure.

Before purchasing, you should familiarize yourself with the composition of the product. Some types contain crushed stone or gravel, so they can cause difficulties during the mixing process. A homogeneous mass can only be obtained using a concrete mixer or hammer drill. If there are no such devices, then craftsmen recommend purchasing a solution based on a cement-sand base. This material is much easier to mix and pour.

The consistency and composition of the solution largely depend on the conditions of further operation of the cement screed. If concrete acts as a subfloor for laying boards, then the mixture does not require special additives. If you want to lay ceramic tiles on a screed, you must add gypsum with an admixture of anhydrate to the solution. Concrete flooring is not recommended for use as a rough floor for the installation of synthetic flooring. When interacting with critical temperatures, synthetics release complex chemicals that can be hazardous to health.

When installing a concrete coating, proper waterproofing is important. The floor is located at a slight slope, and a special pit with a drain is installed under the base of the foundation. Water moves along the gutter and ground and is removed outside the bathhouse. Technologically competent installation of this system will protect the foundation from corrosion and allow the cement screed to serve for a long time.

tiled

Ceramics are widely used for laying cold floors. This material is not subject to decomposition under the influence of microorganisms and does not require special operating conditions. The tile is resistant to critical temperature changes. The coating is also resistant to moisture, which allows it to be installed everywhere in the bathhouse.

Designers note the wide color palette of this material, so they often use it to create decor in the recreation room. The tiles are environmentally friendly, do not emit harmful substances and do not have a chemical odor. The ceramics are laid directly on the self-leveling concrete floor.

The screed does not always provide a smooth coating and requires additional measures. Surface roughness must be kept to a minimum, since this work requires effort and time. Tile laid on a screed with uneven surfaces will not last long. Water can get into the voids, which will lead to the appearance of fungus between the joints of the mosaic. Gaps between fragments need to be processed special means both during installation and during operation.

A significant disadvantage of tiles is its high thermal conductivity. To prevent the temperature in the steam room from dropping, proper thermal insulation is necessary. Another significant drawback is the risk of injury to the varnish coating. It is necessary to purchase tiles with a rough surface so that they do not become slippery when in contact with water. Today there are many ceramic tiles that imitate stone coating.

Designers highlight mosaics stylized as pebbles. In addition to aesthetics and beauty, this coating has a massage effect. Such a tile will become great solution when decorating a relaxation room in nautical style. Small stone particles are complemented by ground glass inserts. The sparkling inserts have a beautiful shine and reflect light in an interesting way.

To increase service life ceramic coating it is covered with glaze and fired several times. In addition, craftsmen advise giving preference to thick tiles. This material is resistant to temperature fluctuations. You should not buy tiles with a large number of pores - they are less durable. Preference should be given to clinker mosaic or porcelain stoneware cladding. Pay close attention to the surface texture: glossy shine should be avoided.

Heated

The heated concrete floor creates a comfortable microclimate. This option is necessary when installing a cold floor, especially in a cool climate zone. Also, the underfloor heating system heats the surface from the inside, drying the material. This system allows you to get rid of dampness and increase the life of the floor covering. It is important to understand that such a heated floor is quite difficult to install for a beginner. Requires instructions from a master and control of the installation process.

Underfloor heating is a system of pipes or cables through which warm liquid moves. Convection ensures uniform heating of the floor around the entire perimeter of the room, regardless of the location of the heating device. Pipes experience strong internal pressure, therefore the surface must be additionally reinforced. The contours themselves are easy to install, but require reliable attachment to the rough surface. To install such heating, you should purchase pipes without seams or joints.

The distance between the contours is called the masonry pitch. It must be maintained during the installation process. Violation of the step leads to uneven heating of the floor. A similar gradient is noticeable upon contact with the floor. You should also choose the floor covering more carefully when installing a heated floor. Ceramics tend to heat up quickly, so craftsmen do not recommend using tiles as a finishing layer. Preference should be given to wooden panels.

Today, there are two methods of installing heated floors. Water system carried out by circulating the heated liquid from the pump through the pipes. The coolant in this design can be either plain water or special anti-freezing compounds. The water system consists of a boiler, manifold and pipes. It is difficult to install and is expensive. However, such a system allows you to reduce heating costs. Water heated floors are often used as additional heating in apartments and houses.

Another way to install a heated floor is electrical system. These "cable" floors are easy to install, but their price depends entirely on energy tariffs. The cable converts electricity into heat and heats the surface evenly. To control heating, temperature sensors are installed in the floor. It is important to remember that such a system should not be combined with wooden materials, since there is a high probability of wood overheating and a fire.

Installation of each type of heated floor requires the supervision of a specialist. The floor is laid on thermal insulation material. Vapor barrier is an equally important layer when installing a heated floor. After laying the contours, the surface is filled with cement screed.

All pipe joints must be additionally secured. It is important to remember that once the cement layer has been laid, it will not be possible to make adjustments. Otherwise, you will need to completely remove the masonry, re-clean the surface and eliminate violations in the installation of the circuits. It is important to lay pipes on a perfectly clean surface. After making adjustments, the surface is filled with a new layer of cement mortar.

Before use, floors are pre-tested and heated in accordance with the instructions. The problems are corrected and the system is checked again. The cycle must be resumed until the required temperature is achieved. Only after final tests cement screed level and begin installing the finishing floor covering. It is important to understand that each joint of the material requires careful processing. A water heated floor will last a long time if all its features are taken into account during the installation process, for example, steam and waterproofing of the floor.

For the manufacture of high-quality coating experts advise you to listen to some recommendations. The reasons for the destruction of floors can be different, but many can be prevented if you do not violate the technology of laying the coating. Choice quality material also plays an important role.

When installing joists, it is important to install waterproofing between the pillars. This coating will protect the frame from rot and rapid destruction. Otherwise, the foundation will quickly collapse upon contact with water. The posts should also be made from materials with high frost resistance and water resistance. Water can accumulate in the soil, which will lead to corrosion of concrete and subsidence of the structure.

Wooden floors cannot be installed without ventilation. Its design provides for gaps around the entire perimeter, depending on the type of layer being laid. Correct the violation after installation finishing coating It is not always possible, so it is necessary not to violate the technology at every stage of work.

Floor boards should not be less than 35 millimeters in thickness. Such a board will withstand critical loads and last a long time, unlike its analogue of smaller thickness. All floor boards must be cut to the same dimensions. This will not only simplify installation, but will also ensure the necessary evenness and slope of the surface. During cold periods, this coating will retain heat longer.

Installation of wooden floors should only be carried out using stainless steel fasteners. Metal structures can be further treated to protect them from rust. Since the coating is regularly exposed to water, it is necessary to pay special attention to the selection of metal structures and fasteners.

The floor level of the washing compartment is always located slightly below the level of other rooms. The steam room and relaxation room should be raised a few millimeters.

Before you start laying the boards, the coating needs to be treated. The material is impregnated not only with a mixture to protect against moisture, but also with a substance that protects against fire. The latter is especially important when installing warm electric floors. All components of the floor must be fire resistant. These indicators are specified in regulatory documents and must be supported by material certificates.

Craftsmen advise giving preference to tiled floors. This combination reliably protects against natural phenomena and the negative effects of the bathhouse. The coating is easy to install and use and will save on hiring workers.

When arranging a steam room, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. Otherwise, water vapor will accumulate and destroy the coating of the ceiling and walls. Rooms with poor ventilation require constant ventilation after use. Only in this case will the bathhouse last a long time. To vent ventilation outside in the attic, it is necessary to install a pipe through which water vapor and smoke will be removed from the room. With a monolithic foundation, craftsmen advise making holes from ventilation pipe out.

Installation of floors in a bathhouse is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wood or concrete-based. And a high-quality solution to the problem related to how to lay floors in a bathhouse will determine the quality of bathing procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bathhouse as a whole.

Let's find out how the floors in the bathhouse can be arranged with our own hands.

Wooden floor

Wooden floors can be non-leaking or leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.

Installation of non-leaking floors

The simplest floor design and procedure is as follows:

Floor beams are usually installed during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs. They usually rest on a foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between pillars in the case of a columnar foundation.
If this was not done, then the beams can be embedded after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bathhouse independent of the foundation and walls. This will not affect how to lay the floor in the bathhouse.
In this case, it is necessary to lay separate columns under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as foundation columns.

Attention: The top level of the columns should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and lower is undesirable, this will solve many problems in the future.

Boards are nailed solidly to the floor beams from below, or 50x50 mm bars are nailed into the lower part of the sides of the beams. The subfloor is laid on these bars.

After this, a layer of vapor barrier is spread over the rough boards.
One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. This can be mineral wool or insulation based on basalt wool.
Then another layer of vapor barrier is laid.

A tongue-and-groove floorboard is laid on top of the beams.

If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.

This tilt should be made towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. For a steam room, it is best to use hardwood; they are softer and do not emit harmful resins at high temperatures.

Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), there is no need to make such a slope, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.

Installation of leaking floors

Such floors are installed only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in a bathhouse of this type, it is necessary to prepare the soil for the future flooring.

To fix a leaking floor, do the following:

The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured onto it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
The top is done concrete screed, this creates a tilt towards the water receiver. Water should be drained either into a septic tank or further from the bathhouse into the ground, which should absorb water well.
At the end of the pipe that drains the water, it is necessary to install a special lock that does not let odors into the bathhouse.
Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one or two centimeters between them.

Attention: Wood must be processed special compounds allowing to extend the service life of the material.

Bulk floors

Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there is free space with the floor beams. As a result, in winter the lower part of the room is quite cool, and good insulation is required.

But you can do otherwise, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bathhouse, you can avoid laying insulation or the entry of cold air in case of leaking floors.

This is done like this:

Floor beams are not installed at all.
A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is poured onto the ground and compacted.
Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also in a layer of 15-20 cm, also leveled and compacted.

A concrete screed is poured on top within 10 cm.

Wooden floors

Wooden logs are laid on the screed, onto which tongue-and-groove floor boards are already installed. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to allow water to drain. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt it.

Ceramic tile floor

You can do it differently; ceramic tiles can be laid very well on even concrete. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.

Attention: For the floor in the bathhouse, a special one must be used, not slippery tiles, in order to avoid falls.

In conditions high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a lattice of wooden blocks on the floor.

Compared with wooden floors, concrete-based floors have advantages in that their price is lower and their service life is much longer. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in a bathhouse.

The furnishings in a bathhouse with wooden floors and the same walls allow you to get complete rest, so before laying the floor in the bathhouse, you should think carefully about what will be healthier, and not cheaper.

Replacing the floor

Nothing lasts forever, and no matter how much we would like it, a situation often arises related to how to change the floor in a bathhouse.

There may be several reasons:

The old floor has become unusable.
It does not perform water drainage functions.
He's simply tired of it.
The floor is cold, slippery, etc.

And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to get. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.

Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as if it were new. Or cosmetic repairs are done and a new floor covering is laid.

Possible option complete replacement one type of floor to another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is installed.

Conclusion

The floor in the bathhouse has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And it largely depends on him temperature regime in the room and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.

Supply you additional information our portal can help you on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction and repairs.