The wall between the steam room and the sink in the bathhouse. Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink. When is the best time to use brick?

The partition between the washing and steaming compartments of the bath can be made in several ways. The most common option is the manufacture of a wooden frame; in second place is a solid timber partition, the manufacture of which is quite expensive. And the last way to separate two rooms involves arranging a solid brick wall half a brick thick.

We will consider a frame partition made of wood as the easiest to manufacture. They are also used as the basis of the frame wall metal racks, but this option is used much less frequently, since the metal is prone to destruction under prolonged exposure to high humidity.

A wooden partition is made quickly enough and does not require large financial and labor costs, in comparison with solid walls made of timber or brick. At the same time, the air space in the voids between the frame elements causes condensation to form at the points of temperature difference between the heated steam room and the colder air inside the partition.

In the diagram PO - steam room, MO - washing department.

An important question when choosing the type of partition is to insulate it or not? Here again we can return to the comparison different types pier. In front of a solid partition made of timber, brick or block, this question does not arise at all. The dense material of such walls itself will sufficiently protect the washing compartment from overheating. At the same time, it does not have high enough thermal insulation properties to prevent heat from leaking into the washing room at all.

How to make a partition with your own hands?

First of all, it is made wooden frame, during the arrangement of which Special attention you need to pay attention to its attachment to the walls. This is important when the bathhouse is made of fresh timber or logs. These types of buildings inevitably shrink over time, which must be taken into account when creating any internal partitions.

The partition in the photo above is installed on the walls using special metal fasteners designed to create a so-called “sliding partition”. The corner is fixed motionless on the partition block, and installation to the log house wall is carried out using stainless steel screws so that they can move inside the vertical fastening groove.

An alternative would be to install a wooden sliding structure, without the use of metal corners.

The partition is fixed to the ceiling metal fastening with vertical grooves. By analogy with wall corners, stainless steel screws are screwed into them, which over time will move along these grooves.

A foil vapor barrier on kraft paper is laid on top of the wooden frame on the steam room side. All joints of the material are sealed with foil tape. There should be no unclosed holes or damage in the vapor barrier layer to prevent moisture from penetrating into the wall.

As you can see in the photo, the surface of the wall near the floor has a small plinth made of tiles. The tiles are mounted on top of SML or DSP boards using special glue. The slabs are attached directly to the frame or to a sliding structure if there are abutments to the walls of the log house.

Installation is being carried out on the sheathing finishing partitions on the steam room side, in in this case this is a lining.

An important point is where the walls meet the floor. Here you need to carefully ensure that the vapor barrier layer is continuous.

To insulate or not?

Regarding this, it is worth saying that here you should look at the circumstances, taking into account the characteristics of a particular bathhouse. First of all, you need to determine how much the washing room needs to be warmed up. If the bathhouse design has a washing room around the perimeter external walls has good thermal protection or a brick shield or part is placed in the wall between the washing room and the steam room brick oven steam room, it is obvious that the washing compartment does not need additional heating.

If there is no need to additionally heat the washing room, thermal insulation can be placed in the frame between it and the steam room. This will make it possible to save more heat in the steam room, as a result of which it will warm up faster and cool down more slowly. In addition, the use of an insulated partition guarantees protection of the sink from overheating, which often happens in bathhouses that have good thermal insulation external walls of the structure.

In general, insulation is not performed in the partition. The fact is that the insulation in the space between the wet steam room and the wet washing room will inevitably collect moisture. Peculiarity heat-protective material from basalt wool is that on one side it must be able to evaporate moisture from its surface. That is, it will be necessary either on the side of the steam room or on the side of the washing compartment not to protect the wall with a sealed vapor barrier.

In the bathhouse, both the washing room and the steam room have high humidity and in each of these rooms, as a rule, a vapor-proof film is installed to protect the wooden frame from the large amount of moisture in the air of both compartments. If there are mineral wool slabs in the wall, then even if a sealed protection from moisture is created on both sides, they will still collect moisture, and there is nowhere to evaporate it.

The only acceptable option for installing thermal protection in a partition is to make special holes for ventilation with the arrangement ventilation gaps. The holes are made not in the walls, but at the ends of the frame.

Thus, we can conclude that if sufficient thermal insulation of the washroom from overheating is needed, you should install a solid partition made of timber or thick boards without cracks and free space inside the wall. This design will allow you to isolate the washing room from the active heat coming from the steam room and will not create the danger of excessive condensation.

The lack of insulation in the wall in most bathhouse buildings is rather a necessity. This is due to the fact that it is the steam room that actively warms up the entire building and the washing room needs heat no less than other rooms, but rather even more. The wash compartment, as a rule, is colder than we would like, and the heat coming from the steam room just compensates for this shortcoming.

What and how to make a partition in a bathhouse

Very often it turns out that first the “box” of the bathhouse is installed, and only then a partition is made inside between the steam room and the dressing room.

The method of making a partition in a bathhouse is chosen depending on the design of the bathhouse itself. If the bathhouse is brick, then it is quite logical to make the partition out of brick.

IN wooden bath It will be natural to make a partition from wood: from timber or frame.

The partition separating the steam room from other rooms has two openings:

for door
For sauna stove

If you install a five-wall made of logs, then you have to cut out some of the material from this wall for disposal. For example, if a partition made of logs is 2.8 m long and 2.2 m high, then its area is 6.16 m2. The doorway will be 0.7 * 1.8 = 1.26 m2 and the opening for the stove (if the front part of the stove is completely exposed to the room) will be 0.5 * 0.8 = 0.4 m2 (depending on the size of the stove). In total, it turns out that 1.66 m2 of the 6.16 m2 partition will need to be cut out.

If saving material is not the main reason for the late installation of a partition in a bathhouse, then you can make it from timber. When constructing a partition from timber, you will need to cut out the above openings in the same way as in a five-wall structure.

It is the presence of two openings that characterizes the complexity of the design of the partition between the steam room and the other room of the bathhouse, especially since the opening for the sauna stove must be made of fireproof material with increased temperature and fire resistance.

Most economical option partition devices in bath-frame with insulation. This is a universal design that is suitable for a bathhouse made of any material: wood or stone, with any floor and foundation design.

In addition, it is economical in many respects:

the necessary openings are created immediately. There will be no need to cut out and throw away the material later.
does not require a foundation because it is lightweight. Can be installed directly on the floor.
Can be done by one person without involving additional drugs.

Partition in a brick bath

A partition in a brick bathhouse occurs not only in a stone (brick or foam block) bathhouse, but also in a wooden one. If a jumper is laid in advance in the foundation design, that is, there is a full-fledged foundation for the device brickwork, then it is quite possible to lay out a brick partition, leaving openings in it for a door and a sauna stove (with lintels made of steel angle, for example).

Advantages of choosing a partition in a brick bath:

can be done by one person
fireproof material
durable (one might say: for the rest of your life)
you don't need to look after him
gives off heat for a long time

But there are also disadvantages:

takes a long time to heat up
need a foundation

A huge plus is that the sauna stove will fit into such a brick partition. The downside is that a brick is enough for a bathhouse cold material and it will need to be lined with foil and clapboard on the steam room side.

Partition in a bathhouse made of timber

A partition in a bathhouse made of timber, compared to a brick one, is good because of the material itself, since wood is more favorable for the atmosphere of the bathhouse and human health. I don’t at all beg the environmental friendliness of brick, but wood is better: it’s easier to breathe in wooden walls and it smells delicious.

If you think through the entire technology for constructing a partition from timber in advance, you can manage to save material in those places where there are openings.

The first option for installing the partition is the simplest:

grooves are made in the walls
prepare beams of equal length (across the width of the room)
each beam is inserted into grooves and placed in its place in the rows
necessary openings are cut out

In this option, 1.66 m2 of timber will be thrown away...

The second option is more economical: it is done in exactly the same way, only each row of timber and each timber, in that number in the opening areas. Beams of the length that are needed specifically in each row are prepared, taking into account the segments in the arrangement of the openings.

This option is also good because in the place where the stove will be, you can immediately lay out a protective brick wall, insert a sauna stove and continue laying the upper rows of timber.

Frame partition in the bathhouse

Construction of a frame partition in a bathhouse. The outer racks must be cut into the grooves of the outer walls of the bathhouse

As already mentioned above, frame partition in the bathhouse it is the most versatile in design, repair and operation.

When installing it you need:

make grooves in the logs of the walls in the places where the partition will adjoin. This is ideal for a log bathhouse. For a brick bath - not necessary.
assemble the main frame from a block with posts and crossbars, so to speak, piping around the perimeter
complete the assembly of the frame at the openings with additional cross members (spacers)
fold brick insert in the opening where the oven will be
insulate the frame mineral wool slabs or basalt fiber slabs. What is needed is slabs, not rolls, because the rigidity of the insulation is of no small importance on vertical surfaces.
on the steam room side, cover first with a vapor barrier layer (Izospan, etc.), and then with clapboard
With outside the steam room (from the side of the adjacent room) should be sheathed first with a waterproofing material, such as Izospan, and then with a covering material of the developer’s choice. If this is a washing room, then in view of the high humidity in this room, the cladding can be made not only with lining from some kind of wood that is most resistant to moisture, but also from gypsum plasterboard (moisture-resistant plasterboard) with further cladding with ceramic tiles.

In any case, regardless of the adjacent room (with high humidity or not), the insulation in the frame partition must be protected on both sides from moisture penetration by steam and waterproofing layers. A steam layer is needed on the side where the room temperature is higher, a hydrolayer is needed on the side where the room temperature is lower. This necessary condition normal operation insulation without loss of its thermal characteristics. You can clarify this issue with consultants when purchasing insulation.

To retain the heat of the bath in the steam room, you can additionally cover the entire surface of the partition with foil material, because most often the thickness of the insulation in a partition with a frame made of 50x50mm bars is 50mm, and such a layer is not enough to maintain a high temperature in the steam room. To prevent it from being hot in the adjacent room, you need to make a thicker layer of insulation, but the easiest way is to cover the steam room with foil.

A frame partition in a bathhouse is made easily and naturally. In terms of thermal performance, it is higher than that made from brick or timber.

As for any wooden surface, it is necessary to antisepticize the entire frame in order to protect it from mold and cover the lining of the lining on the washing side (with high humidity) with some kind of protective composition, such as “Sauna”. The possibilities of using not only linings in finishing, but also ceramic tiles and other finishing materials.

There are several options for making a partition in a bathhouse, and the choice of material and its design depends on the specific construction conditions.

In a private household, a bathhouse is a place where water procedures and treatment sessions are carried out; this room can even be used for household needs. In it you can install, for example, washing machine, which will free up space in the house. And it’s better to separate the rest room from the steam room. Therefore, in this article we will tell you how to make a partition in a bath between the steam room and the sink with your own hands. There are several ways to do this.

From wooden beams and boards

In the case when the bathhouse is built from natural wood or materials based on it, in order not to violate the general concept of the building, it is better to make wooden partitions. For these purposes you can use wooden beam and boards, 4–5 cm thick. The section of the timber should be chosen from 5x5 cm, so that the partition is not just a screen, but also has its own functional use. You can also attach a shelf to such a partition and equip it with hooks for placing basins and brooms. The process of making such a partition with your own hands is as follows:

First you need to make markings. On the walls and ceiling, using a plumb line and a tapping cord, mark vertical lines indicating the middle of the thickness of the partition.
After this, you need to mount the partition frame from timber. fasten individual elements frame to the walls and to each other, it is best to use wooden tenons, drilling holes for them with a drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter. If for some reason such a connection cannot be made, then you can use simple wood screws or special nails without heads. It is worth remembering that the distance between adjacent frame beams is recommended to be maintained at about 70–80 cm.
When the frame is ready, it can be sheathed with boards, nailing them with the same nails without heads. You can also use wooden lining for these purposes.
Thus, the frame is sheathed on both sides, and the result is an internal partition good quality and sufficient strength. It is worth saying that to achieve better thermal insulation of rooms, the space between the skins can be filled mineral wool. This will keep the heat in the steam room longer, and the dressing room will be relatively cool.

Note! Firstly, the frame beams must be treated with special antiseptic solutions, and secondly, for the finishing of such a partition it is best to use boards and lining made of hardwood, such as linden or aspen. Conifers contain resins, which is not very good, because when heated they can cause burns.

The above method of constructing a partition is more appropriate in a wooden bathhouse, but if such work must be carried out in brick bath, then it is best to make the partition from bricks. The manufacturing process is best done in stages:

First you need to make markings. In this case, you need to mark the boundaries of the future wall.
When the markings are ready, you can begin the main work. First you need to prepare the necessary materials, in this case a brick, and also prepare a mortar. To do this, in a ratio of 1/3, you need to mix cement of a grade not lower than M-500 and sifted sand, diluting the mixture with water until a uniform consistency is obtained.
Along a pre-marked line on the floor, it is necessary to apply a layer of mortar with a trowel, the width corresponding to the width of the masonry brick. After which the first row of the partition is laid.
After laying the first row of masonry, it is covered on top with a new layer of mortar, on which the second row is laid.
All other rows of the wall must be laid in the same way. In order to lay a brick over a doorway, during the construction process a strip of metal is laid over the opening, equal in size to the width of the wall and at least 1 cm thick. The first row of bricks over the opening is laid using this strip as a support.

Note! After carrying out the work, the solution must be allowed to dry thoroughly, which will take up to a week. The result will be a fairly strong wall.

Optimal partition design

We will consider a frame partition made of wood as the easiest to manufacture. Metal racks are also used as the basis of the frame partition, but this option is used much less frequently, since the metal is prone to destruction under prolonged exposure to high humidity.

An important question when choosing the type of partition is to insulate it or not? Here again we can return to comparing different types of piers. In front of a solid partition made of timber, brick or block, this question does not arise at all. The dense material of such walls itself will sufficiently protect the washing compartment from overheating. At the same time, it does not have high enough thermal insulation properties to prevent heat from leaking into the washing room at all.

How to make a partition with your own hands?

The first step is to make a wooden frame, when arranging it you need to pay special attention to its attachment to the walls. This is important when the bathhouse is made of fresh timber or logs. These types of buildings inevitably shrink over time, which must be taken into account when creating any internal partitions.

An alternative would be to install a wooden sliding structure, without the use of metal corners.

The partition is fixed to the ceiling with a metal fastener with vertical grooves. By analogy with wall corners, stainless steel screws are screwed into them, which over time will move along these grooves.

The finishing trim of the partition from the steam room side is installed on the lathing, in this case it is lining.

An important point is where the walls meet the floor. Here you need to carefully ensure that the vapor barrier layer is continuous.

To insulate or not?

About frame insulation It is worth saying that here you should look at the circumstances, taking into account the characteristics of a particular bathhouse. First of all, you need to determine how much the washing room needs to be warmed up. If in the design of the bathhouse the washing room along the perimeter of the external walls has good thermal protection or a brick shield or part of a brick steam room stove is placed in the wall between the washing room and the steam room, then it is obvious that the washing room does not need additional heating.

If there is no need to additionally heat the washing room, thermal insulation can be placed in the frame between it and the steam room. This will make it possible to retain more heat in the steam room, as a result of which it will warm up faster and cool down more slowly. In addition, the use of an insulated partition guarantees protection of the sink from overheating, which often happens in bathhouses that have good thermal insulation of the outer walls of the structure.

Thus, we can conclude that if sufficient thermal insulation of the washroom from overheating is needed, you should install a solid partition made of timber or thick boards without cracks and free space inside the wall. This design will isolate the washing room from active heat coming from the steam room and will not create a danger of excessive condensation.

Partition between the sink and the steam room in the bath - optimal design

The partition between the sink and the steam room in the bathhouse can be made in several ways. The most common option is the manufacture of a wooden frame, in second place is a solid timber partition

How to make a partition in a bathhouse

A partition is a special structure that divides common area into its individual parts, such as rooms or compartments. At the same time, the materials used to manufacture the main frame and its walls may differ significantly from each other. Proper manufacturing of bulkheads ensures that the basic style of the structure is preserved.

Designing partitions in a bathhouse

Before making partitions in the bathhouse, you need to determine the area of the planned premises. Their sizes depend on the dimensions of the building and the number of regular visitors. Based on this data, the plan links the bulkheads to existing walls baths indicating axial dimensions. The location is then determined doorways and quantity required material.

Transformable structures - sliding, soft folding, rigid doors, sliding and screens.

The type of planned partition depends on the requirements for it. If the space of the bathhouse is divided for a long time while ensuring reliable thermal and sound insulation of the premises, a durable stationary partition design is used. In other cases, you can get by with mobile or collapsible versions, for example, to separate the locker room from the bathhouse rest room combined with it.

Features of a brick partition in a bathhouse

Advantages and disadvantages of brick partitions for baths

Their advantages are due to excellent physical characteristics:

Brick partitions have good soundproofing properties. Half-brick bulkhead structures have a “noise” insulation index of 47 dB.

The disadvantages include:

Significant weight of the partition: with its thickness of half a brick, the mass of 1 m 2 of masonry is approximately 280 kg.

Installing a brick partition in a bathhouse

To construct such a partition, half-brick or brick masonry is used. Before starting work, you should stock up on: a sand sieve, a container for preparing the solution, a shovel, a hammer, a plumb line, a level and a trowel.

The work site is cleared of unnecessary items and provided with lighting and necessary materials.

If the brick partition located in the bathhouse needs to be plastered, you don’t have to pay attention to the masonry seams. But if it will serve as a natural element of the design of the room, it is necessary to carry out jointing of the masonry with special care with a special tool.

Features of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Pros and cons of wooden partitions for a bath

The advantages of such partitions are very significant:

The material used to make them is environmentally friendly.

There are also disadvantages:

Wooden structures are afraid of water, so they need waterproofing.

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Construction of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Let's consider the construction of a wooden partition between the steam room and the sink in the bathhouse. The step-by-step process looks like this:

Assembly and fastening of the frame. This is the most labor-intensive stage of the work. For the frame, timber 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm is used, its assembly is carried out on site. Two bars for the ceiling and floor, with a length of each of them corresponding to the width of the partition, are fixed to the corresponding structures using dowels. The same should be done with the bars for the walls. They are cut to the height of the room and fixed between the floor and ceiling bars in increments of 600-120 mm. The doorway is formed using transverse bars. For rigidity, it is additionally equipped with intermediate posts on both sides.

Such a wooden partition in a bathhouse can be installed in one day.

Features of a glass partition in a bath

Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions

Modern glass partitions in a bathhouse can be made from glass blocks - a kind of transparent “bricks” made of glass 6-10 mm thick. Their surface can be corrugated, smooth, matte, transparent and colored.

The partitions look impressive, are durable, strong enough, and fire resistant.

Despite the outstanding advantages, there are also disadvantages of glass partitions:

The internal surface of the partitions excludes the laying of any communications - electrical wiring, plumbing, etc.

Device glass partition in the bath

Installation of a glass partition for a beginner - not an easy task. Used for laying glass blocks cement-sand mortars with a fine fraction of filler or “liquid” nails. There are two installation methods: adhesive cement mortar and into modular cells.

The base is cleaned of dust, debris and dirt, and then leveled.

The second method works faster. Cellular grids made of plastic, MDF or wood are attached to walls, ceilings and floors. They are then filled with blocks using sealant or rubber gaskets.

The question of bath partitions is quite extensive. We hope that the information provided in the article will help you choose a material and even make a partition in the bathhouse with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself partition in the bathhouse

Separation internal space Bath construction is done using partitions. We will tell you about their types, features and structure in this article. Contents: Design of partitions in

Since the steam room and the sink perform completely different missions, special attention should be paid to how to make partitions in the bathhouse.

First of all, you need to decide on the material from which the intermediate wall will be built, be it wood, brick or foam block.

The choice of material for the partition depends on the style in which everything is done bath room and what type of heating it uses.

Wooden partition

Wooden partition in the bathhouse

If the main material used in the construction of the bathhouse is wood, then a partition should be built from it.

To perform this work, you will need beams up to five centimeters thick, with a cross-section of at least 5x5 centimeters.

This will provide good insulation of moisture and heat, and not just a screen that blocks visibility into the adjacent room.

To make a wooden partition with your own hands, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

First of all, you need to take measurements and mark on the surface of the walls and ceiling, using straight lines, where the middle of the partition is located.
Then the main frame is made from the beams. Unite wooden boards in the structure, and it is better to attach them to the walls using spikes and a drill. If this is not possible, regular wood screws or nails without heads will also work. Between the bars you need to leave about eighty centimeters of free space.
Wooden boards are attached to the manufactured frame. For this, the same materials are used as for making the frame - self-tapping screws or nails without heads (another option is wooden lining).
Sheathing with boards should be done on both sides of the frame. To provide better insulation of heat and moisture, you can fill the empty space of the partition with mineral wool. Thanks to it, the dressing room will be a cool room, and the steam room will retain valuable heat.

To build a partition in a bathhouse, it is better to use boards made of deciduous trees, such as aspen or linden. They need to be processed before use. by special means antiseptic action.

The most important thing in constructing a wooden partition is to assemble the frame correctly. The stability and functionality of the entire structure depends on how smooth and proportional the frame frame is.

To make the partition more stable and durable, at the very beginning of its construction you can make a small concrete threshold, reaching no more than fifteen centimeters in height and twelve centimeters in width. If you make a strong frame and securely cover it with boards, you can attach hangers to the partition and place towels, bathrobes and other things on them.

Brick partition

If you want to make a partition from brick, you can use the laying of whole material or the spoon method of placing blocks (0.5 bricks).

To prevent the wall from being too heavy, you can use hollow bricks.

However, it must be resistant to high temperatures and high humidity.

Therefore, in the construction of a bathhouse and partitions in it, it is better to use red bricks rather than silicate bricks.

How to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands is explained in the following step-by-step instructions:

First, if the floor is covered with planks, they must be removed to reach the foundation. The entire surface on which work will be carried out must be cleared of excess items and swept with a damp broom.
The room is prepared for work - good lighting is provided, working tools are prepared.
The contours of the partitions are outlined.
The solution is mixed. To do this you need to use a sieve, grinder, shovel and kneading container. The mixing ratio is 3:1 (for example, three buckets of sand and one bucket of cement). Water should be added until the mixture reaches a creamy consistency. To avoid premature hardening of the solution, it should be stirred regularly, but no more water should be added.
The partition is erected using a level, a pick, a trowel, a plumb line and a rule. To make the wall even, you should stretch the string. First, two layers of mortar are applied to the floor, and then you can begin to lay out the brick. You need to start work from the wall. To make the structure more durable and firmly connected to the main walls, during masonry you need to use strips of metal or reinforcement rods.
The second row should start with a half brick. And the third - from the whole, and so alternate them constantly.

In case Brick wall plays an integral role in maintaining the interior of the room, it should be laid out carefully, always removing excess mortar in time to prevent it from drying out. But when the wall decoration completely covers the brick base, then you don’t have to worry too much about appearance seams between rows and individual blocks.

When you plan to apply a layer of plaster to a brick partition, you can even use used bricks for construction, which will significantly save money.

If the partition has doors, their frame should be installed before bricklaying begins.

Foam block partition

One of the generally accepted options for making partitions in a bath between the steam room and the sink is to lay it out of a foam block.

Advantages of using foam blocks:

They have much less weight than bricks.
Foam blocks are produced large sizes, due to which the laying of walls with their use progresses very quickly.
This material has a fairly low cost.

The standard dimensions of the foam block are 30x60x30 centimeters. There are also other solutions for the width, height and length of the blocks, depending on the room in which they are planned to be used.

The process of creating a partition from a foam block is similar to brickwork. But there are some differences in it. The work process is as follows:

The surface of the floor and walls should be prepared in the same way as for brickwork. Then you need to stretch the cord along which the wall will be oriented and outline the contours of the doorway.
The first row of blocks should first be laid out dry. To ensure the width required in the bathhouse, foam blocks can be sawed using a grinder or a hacksaw.
It is used as a gluing solution for laying foam blocks. special composition, which is diluted according to the instructions. A construction mixer is used to mix it.
Approximately three millimeters of adhesive mixture should be applied to the surface of the block. After this, it is installed in its place in the row. For the strength of the partition, the second row should start with a half block, and the third - with a whole one, and alternate them to the very top.
To connect the partition more firmly to the main walls, you need to use reinforcement or large nails. They should be inserted into holes in the wall (made in advance), lubricated with an adhesive solution. The length of the reinforcement must be at least five centimeters.
When the partition is laid out to the level of the top crossbar door jambs, you should lay two reinforcement rods (with a diameter of 1.6 centimeters). They must be at least ten centimeters larger than the width of the opening. Then the next row of foam blocks is laid on top of these metal additions, right up to the ceiling.

You can plaster a foam block partition using the same glue mixture, which was used to connect rows. If there is such a need, you can create paths for installing communications such as electricity or plumbing.

When the work with plaster is completed, the partition needs to be dried, puttied, painted and covered with tiles that will decorate the bath room and make staying in it as comfortable as possible.

If the partition is constructed not from a solid foam block, but from a half-block, then its weight will be light. In this case, it is possible to install the structure on wooden floor without tearing the boards down to the foundation.

In order for the construction of a partition from foam blocks to be successful, it is advisable to take into account a few more valuable tips:

When purchasing foam blocks, you should pay special attention to their surface. If it is even and smooth, the finishing will go faster and will be done with better quality.
Calculating the size of the blocks depends entirely on the type of room in which they will be used. When constructing a partition in a bathhouse, it is better to use light and less wide blocks. In this case, the density of this material does not matter.
Blocks obtained by cutting are considered to be of higher quality. This manufacturing technology is now more developed and progressive.
To make the masonry more dense, it is better to moisten the blocks with water before starting it.
In order for the partition to be strong and durable, it should not have continuous vertical seams. To do this, blocks or bricks should be shifted in each new row.
At the top of the structure, between the last row of the foam block and the ceiling, it is better to leave an opening up to ten centimeters wide. At the end of the work, it should be closed using polyurethane foam.

Decorating the partition with stone

In many ways, the choice of material for the partition depends on the heating method in the bathhouse.

If it is a brick oven, then it must be supplemented with a wall made of the same material.

If the bathhouse is heated iron stove, then a wooden structure is also perfect.

But in this case, it must be located at a distance of more than ten centimeters from the heating center.

How to make partitions in a bathhouse strong and beautiful: best options and methods for their implementation

There are several options for making bath partitions beautiful and durable. The technology for their construction is quite simple, the main thing is to follow a few

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink

It’s good if, when installing the box, all the partitions are erected at once. But more often the room is divided after the roof is covered and windows and doors are installed. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink performs a very important function, so the approach to its manufacture must be very careful.

Material selection

The partition can be made from almost any building material, which can withstand high temperatures without emitting harmful substances. It could be:

Wood frame construction. This option is perfect for both a bathhouse assembled in the same way and a brick building. It can be erected fairly quickly and is the easiest to insulate.
From a log house. It is better to plan and install a partition of this kind during construction. This is important because it is necessary to carry out bandaging with the entire structure. Afterwards it is almost impossible to do this.
Foam blocks and aerated concrete can be installed in brick buildings, as well as wooden ones, when the foundation for the partition was planned in advance.
Made of brick. For these purposes, it is better to use red brick, which is fireproof and retains heat well.
From glass. To do this, you will have to order a design for specific dimensions made of temperature-resistant material. This is the most effective option.

This type of partition is one of the best. Does not require additional care. There is also no need to carry out insulation, because... Wood itself is an excellent insulator.

When laying the foundation, you need to provide an additional lintel on which the partition will stand. If it is piled or columnar foundation, then supports should be located under the partition every 1 – 1.5 m.
Logs are being prepared that will match the future wall. The length must be calculated taking into account the presence of the doorway.
Method of articulation with load-bearing walls will correspond to the one selected for general structure. If this is a “bowl” connection, then the partition will be mounted in the same way.
The first crown is specially trimmed a little from the base side in order to be more stable. After strengthening the casing, the installation of the partition wall begins immediately.

For this option you will need edged board. Its size should be equal to the width of the future partition. It can be 200x100 mm, 200x150 mm, 150x100 mm, 100x50mm. The thicker the partition, the better the heat will be retained. In order to calculate how much material will be needed, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the partition. Next, add as many more supports as needed if they have to be placed in increments of 60 cm.

If, when laying the foundation, a supporting part was provided for the internal wall, then waterproofing must be done before starting installation. To do this, lay a double layer of roofing material or bikrost.
For brick building It is necessary to additionally make a threshold that will prevent the flow of water from one room to another. The height of the threshold must be at least 10 cm. In order for it to be securely intertwined, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm along its length and lay pieces of reinforcement in them. After setting up the formwork and pouring the solution.
Next, the bottom board is laid according to size. It is mounted to the base using dowels. In this case, it is advisable to maintain a horizontal plane. You can determine it with a building level or a laser level.

It is better to stock up on all the necessary material in advance. The masonry can be done in half a brick. This will save money and also reduce the overall weight of the entire structure. It is desirable that the sand that will be used to prepare the solution be dry. This will help you calculate the ratio correctly and will promote good adhesion.

The level of the surface on which the laying will be carried out is checked. With help laser level a line is projected onto two walls and the distance to the floor is measured from it. If the difference is up to 10 mm, then it can be compensated by thickening the seam in some places in the first rows. If the difference is larger, it will be necessary to perform equalization.
A wooden frame is installed in the shape of the future door. It will serve as a guide.

Foam block, aerated concrete

A partition wall made of this material is built according to the brick principle, but it has its own nuances.

When purchasing, choose a material whose sides are as smooth as possible, this will make the whole process easier for you.
It is better to use a special glue for the solution, which is more flexible and dries faster. If you want to prepare it yourself, then the proportions will be 4:1; in addition to sand and cement, you will also need a plasticizer and a foam additive (they need 50 grams per batch).
The first row is tried on without glue. If one of the blocks needs to be trimmed, then it is better to trim the two outer ones same size to get a good dressing.
In the same way as in the previous case, ligation is carried out with load-bearing walls using reinforcement or metal plates.
After two rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam.
The doorway and the partition above it are planned in the same way as in the previous version.
Finishing is done using facing material or putty.

Now you know how to make a partition in a bathhouse. There are no barriers to trying to build it yourself.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink - how to make a partition

Find out how to build a partition between the steam room and the sink. Partition made of brick, foam blocks, log house.

Were finished, it was time to think about dividing the interior space into separate rooms. The total area of the log house is 6x4 m, so I included minimum required steam room, washing room and vestibule. The vestibule was fenced off during the construction process. It remained to decide how to separate the steam room and washing room. Having sifted through a lot of literature, I came to the conclusion that the easiest way is to make such a partition according to frame technology. Firstly, it is built very simply and quickly, I did it in 3 days. Secondly, the price was almost pennies. Thirdly, (very important!) the frame is light and practically does not load the foundation. I will describe how the construction was carried out.

Step 1. Assembling and fastening the frame

The most labor-intensive part of the work is assembling the frame from 50x50 mm bars. I decided to collect it immediately on the spot. First, the bottom beam (bottom frame) was nailed to the floor joists, and the outer posts were attached to it and the walls. The top beam (top trim) is laid and secured on top.

Installation of a timber partition frame

I would like to note that only 4 months have passed from the construction of the log house to the installation of the partition; shrinkage is still ongoing. Therefore, I left a gap of 2 cm between the top trim and the ceiling - to compensate for shrinkage deformations of the log house. The gap was filled with jute felt. All this was done in the expectation that when the log house shrinks, the ceiling level will drop and be set just at top harness partitions.

For greater rigidity, metal corners are screwed in at the junction of the side posts and the trim.

Racks were installed at 600 mm intervals, and an opening was made for door block and brick oven screen. It is important to note here that the stove is planned to be fired from the washing room, so its front part with a brick shield must be built into the partition.

All gaps between the walls, brick panel and frame beams are filled with jute felt.

Step 2. Insulating the partition

I decided to implement the internal filling of the frame according to this scheme:

Scheme of internal filling and cladding of a frame partition

As insulation, I used Technoblock Standard basalt wool (TechnoNIKOL) - in the form of slabs 50 mm thick. According to the manufacturer, this material must withstand heating up to 400°C, not burn or melt. Also, basalt wool is not hygroscopic, suitable for wet areas. Even if a drop of moisture gets into the partition (despite the vapor barrier), the inside will not begin to rot. Well, it is also important that basalt wool is absolutely safe for health and does not emit anything when heated.

The width of the wool slabs is 600 mm; when installing between the racks, they had to be compressed a little. A sharp knife was used to cut the slabs (if it was necessary to install parts, for example, above a shield, above a doorway).

Basalt wool slabs between the pillars of the partition frame

Step 3. Sheathing the insulation with foil (from the steam room side)

On the steam room side, the insulation was covered with foil in 2 layers. I think foil is the best vapor barrier for a steam room. Firstly, it does not allow steam and dripping moisture to pass through. Secondly, it increases the thermal insulation properties of the partition (or wall), as it reflects infrared radiation.

The foil I bought turned out to be thin, so I decided to lay it in 2 layers. First, the first layer was shot and the seams were sealed with foil tape. Fastening was carried out using construction stapler, on the frame posts. On top, at intervals with the first layer (so that the seams do not coincide), the second layer is laid. The seams, holes from the stapler, and corners are also taped with tape.

When I unfolded the foil and then pulled it onto the frame, in some places it became thinner and began to wrinkle. There were no holes, but, for my own peace of mind, I also sealed these damaged areas with tape.

Sheathing the insulation with foil (vapor barrier) on the steam room side

The joints between the brick panel and the foil are heat-resistant silicone sealant(antifungal). This sealant dries quickly and bonds diverse surfaces well.

Step 4. Covering with waterproofing (washing side)

From the washing side, there is no need for foil; you can get by with waterproofing. To do this, I bought a roll of vapor-permeable membrane “Izospan A”. On the one hand, it will prevent splashes of water from the washing machine from entering the insulation, and on the other hand, it will allow the insides of the partition to “breathe” and be ventilated.

I secured the Izospan A sheets with an overlap to the frame posts. I covered the seams and holes from the stapler with tape.

Fastening sheets of waterproofing "Izospan A"

Step 5. Fastening the lining (from the washing side)

The paneling was done from the washing room side. Here I had some thoughts waiting for me. The neighbor argued that the ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the lining is a useless thing, taking up space and not affecting anything at all. At the same time, a builder I knew proved the opposite. It seems like the gap allows condensation, if it forms, to flow down the vapor barrier and not be absorbed into the lining. I thought that this opinion was more sensible and made a mistake. Although, I'm not entirely sure of its necessity.

To organize the gap, slats are placed on the frame posts. Their thickness is the size of the gap. I used 15 mm slats and nailed them onto the posts using regular thin nails.

The top of the slats was covered with pine clapboard. To protect against moisture and add color, I walked over the surface with the antiseptic composition “Supi saunasuoja” (Tikkurila) in 2 layers. The wood is tinted perfectly, the color is even and beautiful. Was bad smell from the antiseptic, after 3 days it completely disappeared.

Covering the partition with clapboard is done using thin slats

Step 6. Attaching the board (from the steam room side)

I decided to cover the partition on the side of the steam room not with clapboard, but with a board 35 mm thick. This board is used, once lay on the floor in the house. The floors have now been replaced, but the boards are still in good condition. Although it already looks pretty worn out, blackened, and stained. To give the board new life, I sanded it well grinder. Half an hour of work and upper layer removed! The board turned out almost like new.

Again, a ventilation gap was formed, this time 20 mm thick. The slats for it were used with a section of 40x20 mm. I nailed the slats to the frame posts, and boards on top of them. All fastenings were made with nails.

After finishing the planking, the surface of the boards was covered with “Supi saunasuoja” (Tikkurila). The antiseptic dries quickly, I painted the partition in 2 layers in a day.

I plan on lower in the future interior walls let in the log house and partitions tiled cladding 1 tile high. This will prevent rotting lower crown log house and partitions located in humid conditions of a steam room and washing room.

This is what a frame partition looks like in a log bathhouse!

This is the partition I made in the bathhouse. Fast, inexpensive and without assistants. I’ve already had time to take a steam bath in the steam room to evaluate the quality of the fence. What do I want to say? The thermal insulation qualities of the structure are excellent; in 2 hours the bathhouse warms up completely. Due to the removal of the shield in the washing room, the washing room also warms up during heating. There is no condensation on the partition, the coloring composition does not change its color.

The good thing about a frame partition is that it can be easily installed in any bathhouse. Be it in a log house, or in a brick or gas silicate building. This design is universal, and its content can be changed depending on its purpose.