Scheme of floor insulation in a wooden house. Instructions for insulating a wooden floor in a wooden house. What do these mysterious letters mean?

Temperature in the house determines the level of living comfort. A wooden building is faster and easier to heat, but heating alone will not be enough. Warmth must be maintained in the house. Good thermal insulation reduces overall heat loss by 25%. Insulating walls without floors is ineffective.

A country house made of wood is an environmentally friendly home, so all building materials used must also meet environmentally friendly requirements. Previously, sawdust, wood concrete, and foam plastic were used for this. Modern materials are more convenient to install and have greater efficiency. An insulated floor prevents the formation of mold in the house and reduces heating costs.

Choice of insulation

For floor insulation wooden house use many materials. The simplest and most inexpensive is expanded clay or sand, which is poured between the rough and finishing coating. They are hygroscopic and protect the boards from rotting, the spread of fungus and provide ventilation. However, bulk non-metallic insulation has its own drawback - over time, their hygroscopicity decreases.

Today on the market you can find many materials for insulating a wooden house. In addition to good thermal insulation, it must meet basic requirements:

  • ecologically pure;
  • be safe for the residents of the house;
  • long service life.

For insulation, fiberglass, mineral wool, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, etc. are used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages:

o Mineral wool. It can be slag, stone and glass. The form of release is also varied - plate, roll, mat. Mineral wool has a high density, does not burn, conducts heat poorly and is quite economical. The main disadvantage is considered to be low moisture resistance.

When using mineral wool, you should carefully consider the vapor barrier system and ventilation. The side of the stove that is not covered with foil should be on the bottom.

When purchasing mineral wool, carefully read the composition, since the impregnation often contains substances hazardous to the body. The more saturated yellow material, it is more dangerous there.

IN construction stores more in demand:

  • Izovol- a product made from mineral fibers. Distinctive feature- high hydrophobic efficiency in comparison with conventional mineral wool. Additionally, it has low thermal conductivity, is non-flammable, biologically and chemically resistant.
  • Rockwool- basalt minute tile. Its peculiarity is that it does not cake, does not lend itself to deformation and shrinkage, like mineral wool. Rockwool resists mechanical stress well. The material is additionally used for sound insulation, since the porous structure absorbs noise well at any frequency. Like Izovol, Rockwool conducts heat poorly, does not burn and is resistant to biological and chemical influences.
  • Expanded polystyrene- has a high thermal insulation rate. It is resistant to moisture and does not absorb water, holds its shape well under temperature changes, is durable, environmentally friendly, durable and is not subject to the destructive effects of microorganisms. Expanded polystyrene is easy to process and use.
  • Penofol- modern heat insulator. Sold in rolls, it is insulation with a layer of foil. The thickness and weight are small. The base may vary, but in most cases it is penofol (foamed polyethylene). Thermal insulation properties are maintained under high mechanical load. Laying occurs overlapping or butt. The seams must be taped with metallized adhesive tape. Penofol does not require an additional layer of hydro- and vapor barrier, since the foil already performs these functions.
  • Ecowool- natural heat insulator made of cellulose. Bind fibers boric acid and lagnin ( organic antiseptic). The uniqueness of the material is that it does not absorb water and removes it outside. The composition contains no components hazardous to health. Ecowool is fire- and bio-resistant, absorbs sound well and does not conduct heat. A special sprayer is used for application, but the material consumption then increases by 40%.
  • Izolon - new material in construction. With a thickness of 2-10 mm, it insulates well heat and sound, has high moisture resistance, is not subject to rotting and is durable.

For insulation, ordinary sawdust can be used. This heat insulator has been used for many centuries. Natural material Quite cheap and completely safe for the body. Sawdust is often left behind after building a house. This is the most affordable insulation for a wooden house.

Sawdust is added to some building materials:

  • sawdust concrete consists of sawdust, cement, sand and water;
  • granular heat insulator - sawdust, glue and antiseptic-fire retardant;
  • wood concrete - sawdust with cement and chemical additives;
  • wood blocks - sawdust, cement and copper sulfate.

Calculation of insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation layer plays an important role. It is calculated individually for each house, taking into account design features, climate and type of insulation. The formula is given in SNiP 02/23/2003:

h = R * A

  • R- thermal resistance. It is determined from the tables in the SNiP appendix.
  • A- coefficient of thermal conductivity. Each type of insulation has its own. The value is indicated by the manufacturer or can be found in the SNiP tables.

If you need to install insulation thin layer, then it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam and other materials in mats or rolls. Mats increase strength and elasticity.

Insulation of floors

IN wooden house thermal insulation can be performed different ways. It is important to take into account the purpose of the room, the average temperature and humidity in it, the load on the floor covering, and the minimum thickness of the heat insulator. Good insulation and adherence to technology guarantees success.

To insulate the floor you will need:

  • drill;
  • hacksaw;
  • set of drills;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • hammer;
  • plane;
  • screwdriver;
  • construction knife.

Double floor

For residential premises, the floor is made double, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. For the bottom layer, use a board; its thickness should be more than 20 mm. Since the subfloor does not carry any aesthetic load, a slab or an illicit board is used for it. It is not fastened to the joists.

The sheathing is secured to the base of the floor with self-tapping screws. The lathing can consist of beams 50x50 mm. Next, the bottom layer is nailed to it using nails. Nails should not reach the joists.

Subfloor boards must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics (Snezh, Finesta, Pinotex). The gaps between the boards should not be more than 1 cm. Next, waterproofing is laid on the subfloor.

Experts insist on membrane thermal insulation. The film should allow moisture to drain down. Plastic film or similar materials will create a humid microclimate in the underground, which will cause the boards to rot. When laying the membrane film, provide a smell of 10-15 cm, and seal the joints with construction tape.

After waterproofing, they begin to work on the joists. Any type of insulation is laid between them. It is permissible to combine several types at the same time. The insulation should fill the space tightly, but not protrude into lags.

Previously, expanded clay was used for insulation. Modern materials have better thermal insulation properties.

The insulation is covered with a layer of membrane vapor barrier, and the finished floor is laid.

Insulation by joists

When choosing this method, the logs must be installed in 50 cm increments on the foundation or frame. Boards or a subfloor board are attached to them. Insulation is placed in the free space, which is covered with hydro- and vapor barrier. Then the boards are laid under the finishing floor covering.

The logs do not need to rest on the foundation, but use brick columns for this. The insulation will be mineral wool or polystyrene foam. I collect the entire “pie” according to the sequence described above.

This method allows you to increase the distance between the finished floor and the ground, and the insulation does not experience mechanical stress. Simplicity and efficiency have made insulation using joists the most common.

Construction stages:

  • Subfloor flooring. I use a shield or rough board 25x150 mm. It is acceptable to take boards from the formwork if they are in good condition. The wood is treated with an antiseptic.

First, wooden logs are laid, leaving a gap of a couple of centimeters to the wall. You can use a T-shaped notch. A cranial beam measuring no more than 50x50 cm is attached to the logs, and shields are attached below.

  • Laying insulation. Thermal insulation material is laid between the joists, and the gaps are filled with foam. It is acceptable to use insulation under the subfloor.

Sprayed insulation has good adhesion, has no joints and follows the contour of the surface.

  • Vapor barrier layer. Waterproofing is important for wet areas or when using hygroscopic heat insulators (fiberglass, ecowool, mineral wool). For sprayed insulation, this item is omitted.

Waterproofing can be:

  1. impregnating;
  2. lining (polyethylene films, roofing felt, PVC membranes, isoplast, glassine);
  3. painting

The vapor barrier film is laid over the heat-insulating layer with an overlap of 15 cm. The edges are folded by 10-15 cm and attached to the joists. The joints are sealed with metallized tape.

  • Finish floor and finishing. The finishing boards are laid 3-4 cm above the auxiliary base. It is required to ensure natural ventilation. They use special boards 3-4 cm thick and 10-14 cm wide with longitudinal gutters on the bottom side.

The final finish can be painting, varnishing, carpeting, linoleum. Installation is carried out according to the instructions; baseboards are laid along the walls.

Thermal insulation of concrete floor

Concrete floors must be insulated. Expanded clay concrete screed is used. Expanded clay has the form of hollow granules with low thermal conductivity. It's quite light.

For insulation, you can use polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Last fits better thanks to moisture resistance and lack of love from rodents.

The procedure for insulating the floor is as follows:

  • a waterproofing layer is laid;
  • lay a heat insulator;
  • reinforced screed more than 50 mm;
  • vapor barrier is laid;
  • finishing floor covering.

Ecowool thermal insulation

Ecowool can be used in two ways:

  1. Dense compaction of material into the space between the joists. All joints and seams must be pre-sealed with polyurethane foam.
  2. Blowing material using special equipment. Ecowool is supplied under high pressure through a hose. The material can be dry or wet. Lignin is sometimes used to glue fibers together.

Insulating an old floor

After dismantling the old floor, check the safety of the joists. If defects, damage (cracks, rotting) and vibration due to mechanical stress are detected, they are replaced. The work is similar to roofing. The big disadvantage will be the duration, since you will have to knock out the joists from the concrete.

Again, check the level and fill with concrete. It is important to secure the ends into the mounting sockets using dry gravel. They do not move to a new stage until the concrete has completely hardened.

Subfloor boards are not mounted directly on the joists. Install the sheathing small beams, and then they put boards on them. Nails should not penetrate the thickness of the joist. Experts have different opinions about antiseptic treatment at this stage. But insurance against mold and fungi will not be superfluous, although it will require time and financial costs. Changes in rough field there shouldn't be.

Membranes will help ensure proper waterproofing. It is mounted on the subfloor with the walls reaching the height of the finished floor.

Logs made of 150x50 mm timber are fixed in increments of 100 cm. When installing heavy furniture, the size is increased to 75x150 mm. The gap between the finishing joists and the wall is filled with insulation.

The heat insulator is placed on waterproofing membrane. A gap of 3 cm is provided to the level of the finished floor for ventilation. A vapor barrier layer is mounted on the insulation.

The finishing coating is secured with screws or nails. If they are in good condition, you can use old boards.

An alternative method of insulation

If there are no severe winters in the region, then you can insulate a wooden house without traditional materials. Insulation occurs using fiberboard, which is mounted on the finishing flooring or under it. If the slabs are on top, then they are covered with carpet or laminate. Carpeting and linoleum will increase the effectiveness of insulation.

Important points of thermal insulation

  1. When purchasing insulation material, you need to check its quality. Don't be shy about asking for a certificate for verification. Quality materials restore their shape after mechanical impact.
  2. The main criterion for choosing thermal insulation material for residential premises should be health safety, not cost. Remodeling a floor is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process.
  3. Waterproofing of insulation must be organized on both sides (internal and external).
  4. It is worth providing a compensation gap between the insulation and the finished floor.
  5. Can be applied to rough flooring metal mesh which will protect the floor from rodents.
  6. Between the rough and finished floors, you can organize a heating system using a special heating cable.
  7. The floor of a wooden house should be well ventilated.
  8. To increase thermal insulation, the foundation and basement are insulated.

A reliably furnished floor in a wooden house is a criterion for heat preservation. It is not difficult to insulate it yourself, the main thing is to choose the right material. The most popular method is the double floor system.

Additional insulation of the floor in a wooden house will reduce heat loss and thereby reduce heating costs. Despite the fact that wooden floors have low thermal conductivity, heat leakage can occur due to the high temperature difference in the basement and on the first floor. In this article we will tell you which material is best to use for thermal insulation of the first and second floors in a private house with a wooden base.

Features of thermal insulation

How to insulate a floor in a wooden house? The process of installing thermal insulation is relatively simple. However, the quality of work is largely determined technical features coatings used for insulation. Before purchasing material for covering the rough foundation, you need to take into account several important nuances:

  • expected load on the coating;
  • humidity level;
  • temperature loads;
  • height of thermal insulation coatings.

The base insulation technology itself is simple and consists of several stages:

  1. installation of logs;
  2. fixation from below on wooden sheets on joists;
  3. installation of insulation on joists;
  4. covering the base with vapor barrier material;
  5. finishing of the rough base.

When planning work, it is very important to take into account the microclimate in the room. To insulate the first and second floors, various heat insulators are used, correctly. Moreover, technologically the insulation process also has some differences, which we will talk about a little later.

Optimal thermal insulators

What material is best to use for finishing the rough coating with your own hands? To insulate wooden floors, both natural and synthetic thermal insulators are used. The most popular of them include:

  • Wood sawdust;
  • Expanded clay;
  • Minvatu;
  • Izolon;
  • Styrofoam;
  • Penofol.

Each material has its own technological features and thermal insulation parameters. To understand their disadvantages and advantages, let’s consider all of the above heat insulators in more detail.

Thermal insulation with sawdust

Insulation with sawdust is one of the most budget options thermal insulation of wooden floors. Ecologically pure material It is quite light, so it can be used for insulating interfloor ceilings. The thickness of the heat insulation layer can be easily varied due to its flowability. Thus, it is possible to regulate the level of heat loss in the room.

When finishing the base with sawdust, you can use the following types of wood-based coatings:

  • Blocks of pressed sawdust. The material is produced from copper sulfate, sawdust and dry cement. As a rule, it is laid between the joists when insulating the first floor. Lightweight blocks of small thickness - up to 15 mm, can be used for wall cladding;
  • Pellets with sawdust. Granulated bulk material made from wood sawdust treated with an antiseptic and glue. Hard-to-burn sawdust can be insulated interfloor ceilings, since they do not create a large static load due to their low weight;
  • Arbolit. IN in this case
  • the base material is mixed with synthetic and organic additives and then molded into blocks. The non-flammable thermal insulator has high bending strength, while it is hygroscopic. Therefore, during its installation it is necessary to use waterproofing layers;

Insulating the floor along joists with sawdust in any case involves the use of a waterproofing layer. Hygroscopic material is a good environment for the development of mold and pathogenic flora, so during the operation of the coating it is necessary to exclude the possibility of moisture ingress.

Thermal insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a granular insulation material with good sound and heat insulation properties. Why is it worth insulating foundations with expanded clay? The heat insulator has considerable advantages, which include:

  • environmental friendliness;
  • frost resistance;
  • strength;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • non-flammability.

When finishing the coating with expanded clay with your own hands, you need to take into account the low level of hydrophobicity. The material quickly absorbs moisture, although it does not deform. However, insulation with expanded clay is fraught with the formation of mold under the floor. Therefore, during the installation process it is necessary to think about additional waterproofing.

How to properly make thermal insulation with expanded clay?

  1. Before expanding expanded clay, lay a layer of waterproofing on the base. It could be polyethylene film or roofing felt;
  2. The layer thickness should vary from 10 to 50 mm, no more;
  3. As you can see in the photo, a vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation;
  4. Coatings with a foil layer can be used as a vapor barrier. The best option will become Penofol.

If you want to insulate a plank floor with expanded clay with your own hands, under which there is a basement, it is advisable to pour a layer of sand underneath. Thanks to it, condensation will not accumulate under the floor, which will significantly reduce the risk of mold or mildew.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Is it possible to insulate wooden base on joists with mineral wool? The environmentally friendly thermal insulator is made from fibers obtained from glass containers and slag. The advantages of finishing the rough base with mineral wool include:

  • ease of installation;
  • low cost;
  • light weight;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • resistance to mold;
  • good thermal insulation.

However, in the case of treating the floor along joists with mineral wool, several must be taken into account negative points, namely:

  • Upon contact with water, a coating insulated with mineral wool loses its thermal insulation qualities;
  • It is not recommended to use the material for cladding the second floor due to low vapor permeability;
  • It is not advisable to insulate rooms with a high static load with mineral wool due to its low strength.

What is the work schedule?

  1. Preparing the base. From below you need to install a plank floor treated with an antiseptic;
  2. Waterproofing.
  3. It is necessary to make additional waterproofing using polyethylene film, and first clean up the house; Cladding with mineral wool.
  4. During the installation process, you need to ensure that the layers of material are laid on the joists very tightly to each other; Installation of vapor barrier.
  5. It is better to make a high-quality vapor barrier with Penofol; The final stage. At this stage, installation is carried out.

finishing coating

Ecowool thermal insulation

The thickness of mineral wool is determined by the microclimate in the room. If there is a basement below the room, the material can be laid in two layers. Why is it better to make thermal insulation with ecowool? 100% natural coating has good technical parameters

and relatively low cost. It is made from cellulose and mineral additives, so even when heated, the ecowool coating does not emit caustic chemicals. A product impregnated with boric acid is practically invulnerable to fungus and mold.

  • What advantages does this type of insulation have?
  • Good heat and sound insulation;
  • Fire safety;
  • Environmentally friendly;

Low thermal conductivity.

  1. As you can see in the photo, finishing the rough base using ecowool joists can be done in two ways: Manual.;
  2. In this case, finishing with ecowool involves installing insulation along the joists on boards attached below. To prevent heat loss, joints are treated using

polyurethane foam

Mechanical.

To finish the base of ecowool, blowing machines are used: through a special hose, crumbly insulation is evenly distributed over the coating. In this case, the layer thickness should be at least 3-4 mm.

The process of thermal insulation of ecowool floors is shown in more detail in the video clip. Thanks to the glue that is included in the thermal insulator, it can be used to insulate not only the floor base, but also walls. It is also worth noting that ecowool is convenient for insulating not only the first floor of a house, but also interfloor ceilings. The vapor-permeable coating does not contribute to the accumulation of condensation and the development of mold. Insulation with Izolon

  • How to properly insulate joists with isolon? The heat insulator, made of foamed polyethylene, has low thermal conductivity. Due to this quality, it recently began to be used for insulation.
  • floor coverings
  • . What are the advantages of Izolon?
  • Small thickness (2-10 mm);

Low thermal conductivity; wooden floor Izolon, you need to consider the following points:

  • The coating has good sound insulation, so when laying it it is not necessary to use additional sound-proofing layers;
  • To reduce heat loss in the room, when laying Izolon with your own hands, the material is not joined, but overlapped;
  • The seams between adjacent sheets are treated with polymer glue or bitumen mastic.

Thermal insulation work can be seen in the photo below.

Insulation with Penofol

Is it possible to insulate wooden floors with penofol? Penofol is a new generation insulating coating, available in roll form. To be more precise, Penofol is used for shielding, which prevents the dissipation of radiant energy. Lightweight and easy to use, the insulation has a reflective layer that prevents large heat losses. That is why it began to be used everywhere for finishing interfloor ceilings.

What are the benefits of Penofol?

  • withstands heavy loads;
  • non-hygroscopic;
  • has low thermal conductivity;
  • easy to install;
  • does not involve the use of vapor barrier.

For your information. The technology for insulating bases with Penofol is not much different from insulating with Izolon. As in the previous version, the sheets are laid overlapping to prevent heat loss.

Features of insulation by logs

How to properly insulate a rough foundation along the joists? During the installation of the thermal insulator, the following scheme must be observed:

  1. The rough base is lined with boards that must be attached to the joists;
  2. To prevent moisture from getting under the coating, lay a layer of vapor barrier;
  3. Then the base is insulated with polystyrene foam, mineral wool or other materials.

If you need to make high-quality thermal insulation of a room above a non-residential and unheated room, then it is better to use mineral wool with a thickness of more than 40 mm as insulation. In this case, the “pie” made from a vapor barrier and mineral wool will keep the room warm, preventing heat exchange between cold basement and the first floor.

Features of thermal insulation of the first floor

Since wood tends to deform, over time, cracks may form in the floor, through which heat gradually begins to escape from the room. How to make high-quality insulation of the first floor in an old house?

  1. The first step is to remove the old flooring;
  2. Then the lag is inspected for deformation or rotting;
  3. If necessary, rotten beams are replaced;
  4. Then they treat the wood with an antiseptic with their own hands;
  5. From below, blocks for laying wooden boards are nailed to the joists;
  6. Insulation is poured onto the boards;
  7. Next, lay a layer of vapor barrier;
  8. The work is completed by installing the finishing coating.

The insulation technology is shown in detail in the video.

Many people prefer own house apartment. This is no coincidence; it is in the house that you can own project delimit living space, create unusual interior, enjoy the peace and quiet. But when building or renovating a private house, it is advisable to pay attention to many nuances: insulation of the floor, foundation, walls.

A cold floor in winter and autumn increases the cost of heating a house and can cause mold and drafts. In order for the microclimate in the room to be comfortable and healthy, the floor must be insulated.

If a private house is under construction, then you can think through an insulation system in advance so that in the future you can live in a warm and dry room. Experts offer several solutions to this issue: a double floor system, a “warm floor” connected to the heating system.

Double floor system

The double system consists of creating a fine and rough coating, between which an environmentally friendly insulation is placed: sand, expanded clay, sawdust. When designing a house, you should take into account the height of the insulating structure, purchase finishing and rough materials, and insulation.

The first stage of construction is laying the beams on which the subfloor will be attached. Skull blocks are nailed to the load-bearing joists, which will hold the rough covering. This is followed by laying the rough layer of boards. The material must have a thickness of at least 40 mm. It is important that the boards fit tightly together; a special groove system for fastening the boards will help with this.

After the rough floor has been laid, it needs to be insulated. To do this, sand, expanded clay, or other heat-saving materials are poured into the cells between the beams.

Attention: use sand to insulate floors when it is too high humidity soil or air is not recommended. If ventilation is poor, condensation can accumulate, which can lead to the appearance of fungus or mold.

The next stage of insulation is construction of the finishing layer of the floor and installation of the finishing coating. After the insulation is placed in the cells between the beams, the finished floor is laid. For this purpose, processed wooden plank(pine, spruce, larch, cedar), thickness 40-50 mm. A locking or groove system will simplify the installation of the board and help create a uniform covering, without cracks or gaps. Finishing The finished floor depends on individual preference: painting wood, laying laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc.

Batten

Warm floor system

If in a wooden house lower floors made of concrete slabs, you can use a gas or steam heating system to insulate the floor. This system allows you to create an optimal indoor microclimate, reduce humidity and the cost of heating the building.

When installing the system on concrete plates A polyethylene film is laid to protect the insulation from excess moisture. Then a layer of insulation (polystyrene, penoplex) is laid on the film. The layer can have a thickness from 3 to 10 cm. It is attached along the perimeter of the room damper tape, which has a thickness of at least 5 mm and serves as a special “buffer” that keeps the screed from deforming and expanding when heated.

Then it is mounted on the insulation reinforcement mesh, on which the pipe system is laid. Any pipes can be used: metal-plastic, metal, polyethylene, polybutane. Poured over the pipes concrete screed, thickness not less than 30 mm. The finishing coating is laid on top of the screed.

This floor heating system ideally distributes heat throughout the room, does not dry out the air, and maintains a healthy microclimate.

There is also a method of laying heated floors on a wooden base. You can familiarize yourself with this method by watching a video tutorial.

Video - Method of laying heated floors on a wooden base

Floor insulation when repairing a wooden house

If the house is cold, damp, and there are drafts on the floors, then it’s time to think about insulating the floors. Insulating floors in an already rebuilt house is not too difficult; the main thing is to choose the highest quality and most affordable material.

This type of work is complicated by the fact that the distance from the ground to the floor is too small, which prevents the insulation from attaching to the beams. Because of this drawback, the old flooring must be completely dismantled. When removing floorboards and skirting boards, it is recommended to number them so that there is no difficulty or confusion when laying them back. After removing the boards, it is advisable to inspect the cross beams for rot or other defects and replace the damaged wood with whole wood.

Further cranial strips are attached to each beam from below with anchors, which will serve as a support for the rough flooring on which the insulating material will be laid. The rough flooring itself can be made from floorboards, chipboard, or fiberboard.

Further Dense polyethylene is laid on the subfloor, protecting the insulation from moisture. On polyethylene between beams insulation is being laid. The material must not protrude above the beams; it should be several centimeters lower than the edge of the beam. This is necessary so that the material “breathes”.

Final stage - finishing board flooring. You can use old, numbered boards if they are in good condition. Or you can put a new floor. Depending on the capabilities and personal preferences, the finishing coating is selected.

It is worth knowing that when this method Several layers of insulation are used various materials, which increases the thickness of the structure by more than 20 cm. There is no need to touch the finishing coating in the house; all work is carried out from the basement.

The first stage of work is to inspect the timber for the presence of rot or other damage.. If wooden parts well preserved, then access them using a stapler attached vapor barrier film . The film must be attached over the entire area of ​​the room. It prevents moisture and dampness from getting from the floor of the room onto the insulation. Then on the edge of the beams skull strips are nailed, on which the rough version of the flooring will be attached.

After the planks are nailed, Insulation material is placed between the beams, which is cut directly to the size of the recess. The insulation is secured using a rough decking attached to the skull strips.

If the humidity in the basement is too high, you can place another layer of moisture-proofing material between the insulation and the subfloor.

In this way, you can efficiently insulate the floor in the house without compromising the integrity of the existing floor covering in the room.

Review of the highest quality and most reliable floor insulation materials

This material has a whole range of advantages: low price, ease of processing, non-flammability, increased heat and sound insulation. Mineral wool is divided into three types: slag, glass and stone. Each type has special characteristics. For example, glass mineral wool has increased vapor permeability and, at high humidity, absorbs moisture, which leads to loss of heat-retaining properties. This type of material is used for insulation only with hydro and vapor barrier and membranes.

This type of material has high environmentally friendly and heat-saving properties. This material consists of 80% cellulose fibers. Ecowool can get wet at high humidity, but after drying the material completely restores its heat-saving functions.

Ecowool can be purchased in two forms: in the form of pressed slabs and in the form of a solution, which is supplied under pressure like polyurethane foam, filling all the recesses and hardening. The only drawback of this material- quite high cost and the need to use special equipment for the liquid version.

Izolon

This modern material Suitable for various repair and finishing works. It is considered environmentally friendly and goes well with all building materials, does not absorb moisture, is not susceptible to mold, rotting, corrosion, and is not flammable. Good soundproofing properties with a fairly small layer thickness make it indispensable for soundproofing work. A two-centimeter layer of isolon is comparable in soundproofing and heat-saving properties to a brick wall.

Penofol

Another modern material, characterized by a number of undeniable advantages. Penofol is a rather thin material consisting of many layers. The top layers are made of thin polished aluminum foil, which is moisture-resistant and vapor-tight. Between the foil there is a foamed multilayer insulation - polyethylene.

Depending on the application, the thickness of the insulating layer in different variations of the material may be different. Some types of penofol are equipped with one self-adhesive side, which facilitates the installation of insulation during construction and repair work. If penofol is used to insulate the floor, then there is no need to lay a steam and moisture-proof film; foil copes with this task perfectly.

Video - Review of various types of penofol and its analogues

This material is made from a mixture of cement with sawdust and granules. Also, to create heat and sound insulation properties, the material contains chemical additives. The components are used to produce slabs of various thicknesses. Despite the presence of cement, the material does not have much weight and is easily deformed and can be processed during repair work. It is also worth noting the flame resistance. The only disadvantage of wood concrete is its ability to absorb moisture, which leads to loss of heat-saving properties. When installing this insulation, the presence of steam and moisture-resistant membranes is mandatory.

This type of material is known to everyone - it is ordinary polystyrene foam. Polystyrene has good heat-saving properties, resistance to corrosion and rotting. This material does not decompose and does not contain any harmful substances. volatile compounds. Also worth noting a light weight, ease of processing, wide range of sheet sizes and thicknesses.

Polystyrene foam accumulates liquid at high humidity, which affects its heat-saving properties. That is why when installing this material you need additional protection from moisture.

Correctly carried out floor insulation in a wooden house significantly changes the indoor microclimate in better side. The house becomes warmer, more comfortable, humidity and dampness, which spoil things and mood, disappear.

An important criterion for maintaining heat in a house is a securely equipped floor. How to insulate the floor in a wooden house so that staying indoors is comfortable even in cold weather? Among the methods of floor insulation, the most popular and popular are the creation of a double floor system and the insulation of an existing floor during renovation.


Double floor system in the house

When planning a house, it is important to consider that a double floor system involves a subfloor and a finishing floor. Together with the insulation, they form a kind of layered structure, which not only carries the load, but also prevents heat loss.

Sub flooring

The first layer of the floor is rough, made from rough, well-fitted boards, on which a layer of sand or expanded clay is poured. This method ensures floor ventilation and prevents the growth of fungus. But this is far from the most The best decision. We still advise you to think about it effective insulation subfloor: hygroscopic materials like expanded clay lose their properties over time.

Since it will subsequently be necessary to lay a layer of insulation between the finished and subfloor, we immediately provide the required distance between them. As a material for the subfloor in a wooden house, you can use boards that were previously used for formwork during the construction of the foundation - provided that you took care of their safety during the process of pouring the foundation of the house. To lay the subfloor, a beam is attached to the joists with screws (a section of 50 by 50 mm is sufficient), and the boards of the floor itself (25 by 150 mm) are nailed to it. It is advisable to treat them with antiseptics before this to prevent the development of fungus. It is advisable to waterproof the subfloor in a wooden or any other house only if hygroscopic materials are used. thermal insulation materials.


The subfloor with joists is a universal design, widely used in construction. The material used is a board about 150 mm wide and 40-50 mm thick, which is attached with screws to wooden floor beams. The logs are not brought up to the walls by 2-3 cm, the resulting gap is filled with mineral wool.

Finished flooring


The finishing floor is laid on top of the rough floor. The floor is made of neat hewn milled boards with a tongue-and-groove joint, which are located at a height of 3-4 cm from the rough. The thickness of the boards can be from 3 to 4.4 cm, width from 9.8 to 14.5 cm. Each board has a longitudinal recess on the back side, which promotes air movement under the floor. In addition to milled boards for floor insulation in a wooden house, versions of tongue-and-groove boards with a rebate, boards with a tongue and groove, and boards with a tongue-and-groove strip are used.

Such boards have a planed front side, but there is no airflow. It is more difficult to make flooring from them - the untreated back part leads to an incomplete fit of the boards on the joists. The most labor-intensive work is considered to be laying finished floors from unedged boards. On such boards you need to plan the front side by cutting off the wane with an ax.

Boards are laid on top of the joists as finishing floors, or fiberboard sheets are placed on the boards, covering the space between the wall and the floor with a profiled lath. The skirting boards are joined lengthwise and at right angles; at the corners the skirting boards are cut and joined at an angle of 45°. Skirting boards are fastened to the walls with nails; it is optimal to take nails 75 mm long. Nails are driven in at a distance of 600-700 mm from each other, as well as at the joining points. The baseboard should be pressed tightly against the wall, partition and floor.

About floor waterproofing

If it is planned to lay any kind of coating on the finished floor, then to protect it from moisture they resort to using waterproofing materials. Most often this is impregnating, painting or pasting waterproofing, which can be used in wet areas of wooden and stone houses.


Thermal insulation of floors during renovation

Besides correct installation you need to take care of how to insulate the floor in a wooden house. Usually mineral wool boards are used. When insulating the floor, you should remember that all heat-insulating materials used must meet certain requirements - lightness, excellent thermal insulation properties, ease of installation, safety, high strength and durability.

A wooden house was previously considered a very warm structure that did not require any additional work on insulation. True, not all modern developers know that the floors in old houses were made from logs cut in half, and the thickness of such coverings reached 20–25 cm. The walls of the log house were assembled from round timber Ø 55–60 cm. Currently, the thickness of the timber rarely exceeds 20 cm, and for floors, boards no thicker than 2.5 cm are used. Such thin lumber cannot in any way meet the requirements of current regulations.

According to existing standards for heat conservation of residential buildings (SNiP II-3-79), to achieve energy saving R = 3.33 ° C m2 / W, the thickness of the timber in the Moscow region should be 50 cm. To avoid installing such thick walls, you need to use modern insulation materials. 12 cm of expanded polystyrene has the same heat saving effect as wood 53 cm thick or Brick wall thickness 210 cm.

The better the heat saving performance of a building, the lower the financial losses for maintaining the house in winter period time. But there is one point - if correct use insulation has a significant positive effect, but the wrong one has a very negative effect. Construction industry offers consumers a wide range of thermal insulation materials that differ in structure, manufacturing technology and thermal conductivity parameters.

Table. Types of floor insulation

Type of insulationBrief description of physical and operational characteristics
In terms of cost they are in the middle category, quite technologically advanced and effective insulation materials. Rolls make it possible to cut materials exactly according to the size of niches; due to this feature, it significantly reduces the amount of unproductive losses. For insulation of floors in a wooden house, they are most often used roll insulation from mineral wool. There are also rolls made from cork tree bark, but such materials are recommended to be used when installing heated floors only as additional lining insulation, since their thickness does not exceed a few millimeters. For basic insulation this is very little. Often, roll insulation materials have a foil coating. This reliable protection from moisture penetration, in addition, it is possible to slightly reduce heat losses due to infrared radiation.
Using special equipment, lightweight and porous insulation materials are pressed into slabs with standard sizes. Plates, unlike roll materials, can maintain their geometry, which simplifies and speeds up the installation process. The dimensions of the slabs are taken into account at the design stage of the house; taking into account their dimensions, the distance between the floor joists is selected. Most often, mineral wool and glass wool are pressed, but you can also find slabs made of ecowool. The price is slightly higher than the roll ones, the thermal conductivity parameters are almost the same. Pressed polymer insulation based on foam plastic is located separately. Modern technologies make them safe for health and do not support open combustion. Such performance properties make it possible to use these materials for floor insulation in wooden houses.
The main difference is that the materials harden or polymerize after application to the surface. The insulating layer has no gaps, the technology makes it possible to insulate the most hard to reach places complex configuration. Polymer thermal insulation and ecowool are applied in liquid form. Disadvantage: complexity of technology polymer insulation. According to actual characteristics, these materials occupy the last places and professional builders not recommended for use.
The traditional and cheapest insulation materials are most often expanded clay and slag. The main advantage is that they are absolutely non-flammable. In terms of thermal conductivity they occupy last place among all existing insulation materials.
Share