Among the options for bases under parquet, wooden flooring is considered one of the most economical. Read below about how to lay parquet on such a base yourself, what tools are used and how many stages the process consists of.
A wooden floor is a ready-made base, so you don’t need to remove it; it’s easier to lay parquet directly on it
Wood, and especially as a base for parquet or parquet boards, is a capricious material that requires a special approach. In addition, before making a decision, you need to assess its condition.
What is the design of a parquet floor? First of all, this is a subfloor, a base - in this case made of wood, glue, parquet dies, putty and a varnish coating in several layers. The quality of the finished parquet will largely depend on the quality of the rough parquet. That is why you should analyze the wooden subfloor for:
- strength (it must be made of tongue-and-groove boards, firmly fixed on joists additionally impregnated with antiseptic agents);
- perfect evenness.
Don’t be lazy - walk around, jump, knock, listen to the old wooden floor so that its possible defects come out before installing the parquet, and not in the future
A wooden floor suitable for the role of a base should not creak, have differences in height, move or sag under weight during operation. Only if all these requirements are met, even an old wooden floor can be considered as one of the main layers of the “parquet cake”.
Defects in the surface of a wooden floor, as well as a violation of its functionality, cannot be considered reasons for categorically rejecting the idea of installing parquet on the surface with your own hands. In this case, installing a new wooden floor will be possible, but only after repairing the coating and eliminating the main problems.
How to lay parquet on a wooden base?
To lay parquet on a wooden floor, it is necessary to observe the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. Optimal temperature for styling natural wood- from +18 to +25 degrees with air humidity up to 60%.
An important point is the preparation of the rough foundation. The old wooden floor must be securely fixed to the base - this will save it from squeaking and prevent the appearance of gaps and differences. Dies requiring replacement or repair are removed from the coating sheet, installing new ones or correcting defects.
To achieve a perfectly smooth surface, rough grinding of the base surface using special parquet sanding equipment will help. Puttying and removing remaining gaps and joints will also allow you to achieve the required level of preparation of the base. The final part of the preparation is re-grinding the surface using special equipment.
Small set of electrical grinding equipment
If the rough wooden floor is so uneven that sanding and puttying cannot completely solve the problem, it makes sense to additionally use plywood sheets up to 12 mm thick for leveling. They are fastened with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws, recessing the caps by at least 3 mm before the grinding stage. A compensation gap of 5 mm must be left between the layers.
The finished plywood layer is also sanded using a special technique, leveling the joints. After treatment, the intermediate floor is cleaned and treated with soil mixtures to improve adhesive properties and protect against pests.
Floating parquet installation method: features
High-quality installation of parquet on a wooden floor can be done in two ways. Let's consider the first one - floating. To prevent the boards from changing their geometry and dimensions during operation under the influence of temperature changes and humidity, a small compensation gap of up to 15 mm is left between them and the wall.
If a heating system is used, it must be turned off for at least 6 hours at the time of installation.
Begin laying the boards from the wall opposite the door. Ready wooden base covered with a special substrate based on foamed polyethylene, which plays the role of a waterproofing layer. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm.
An option for laying parquet using a floating method, without the use of glue
Plastic stops are placed along the perimeter of vertical structures every 5 cm. The protruding part of the groove at the dies of the first row is removed. The first plank is mounted, carefully leveled, and then attached to the next one using a tongue-and-groove locking system. The rest of the boards are attached using the same principle.
It will be correct to lay parquet from the joint of the end edges, followed by joining along the long side. The dies in the last row are adjusted in size so that the width is at least 5 cm.
To strengthen the fastening, use a small hammer or block to knock out the planks. After installation is completed, the restriction wedges are removed and the installation of the plinth proceeds to the place where they are installed.
Glue method of attaching parquet to a wooden floor: features
Installing a parquet floor on a prepared wooden base using glue is similar to the floating installation procedure. The difference is that a thick adhesive composition, often polyurethane based, is immediately applied to the wooden base. Water-dispersed adhesive mixtures in this case they are not suitable, as they will negatively affect the condition of the subfloor.
The protruding edge of the first row of dies is also cut off, and restrictive wedges are installed around the perimeter of the room, in place of which skirting boards will eventually be installed.
Option for laying parquet flooring with glue
It is more convenient to use a notched trowel to apply the glue. The width of the strip should be slightly larger than the width of the parquet block. The first row is carefully laid on the base, pressing tightly and fixing it with nails without heads to increase strength.
The next row of dies is also placed on the glue strip, but this time with an offset. After completion of the work, the restrictive wedges are removed, and in their place, baseboards are installed to match the color.
In conclusion, we note that laying parquet on old wooden floors is indeed possible, moreover, justified in every sense. The main thing is to make sure the quality of the floor and, if necessary, carry out work to repair and restore it. It is impossible to install parquet on a loose and uneven base - this is a pointless waste of effort, time and money. Such a coating will not live up to expectations and will become unusable within the first months after the start of operation.
If the old floor has been well looked after and is preserved almost in its original form, it will take a minimum of time to prepare it for parquet
It is difficult to argue with the opinion of craftsmen who claim that a real wooden floor can only be made from parquet or parquet boards. Traditionally, parquet is laid on a prepared substrate or on joists. The modern quality of multilayer parquet boards allows the material to be laid even on concrete. The pleasure is not cheap, but the quality of the coating is very high. The outer surface of the flooring is lined with inserts made of hardwood, traditionally used for the manufacture and installation of parquet. Therefore, the floor turns out to be beautiful and durable, but on one condition, the master who undertakes the installation must perfectly understand how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor.
What is parquet board
The classic version of a typesetting covering made from small parquet boards is quite rare today, primarily due to the high price of the material. A board 400-500 mm long and 40-50 mm wide was cut from solid oak or elm, carefully finished and sorted according to the pattern and surface texture. As a result, high-quality oak parquet cost an astronomical amount of money, in order to lay the parquet board, it was necessary to find an intelligent craftsman. Material required daily care, periodic grinding, sanding and wax polishing.
Modern parquet is much easier to use. Manufactured in two versions:
- In the form of a solid thick parquet board made of solid oak or beech wood;
- In the form of a lamella glued together from a pine base, with an outer insert made of hardwood.
For your information! The dimensions of a parquet board are several times larger than the dimensions of a classic parquet fragment, it is much cheaper and easier to handle; it is quite possible to lay the board on a concrete floor with your own hands.
Parquet made of solid massif wood is much more expensive than a three-layer coating, so it is used as finishing expensive repairs, offices, apartments and executive premises. At the same time, glued parquet boards, even with external cladding made from expensive types of wood, is becoming increasingly popular due to its relatively affordable price and the ability to lay the material with your own hands.
Parquet boards are produced in the form of lamellas up to 250 mm wide, 2200 mm long, and 12-14 mm thick. The top layer of oak or beech may have an additional oil or varnish coating, which prevents the most sensitive part of the parquet from absorbing moisture and subsequent warping. A tongue and groove are cut on the sides of each lamella, allowing the parquet boards to be laid in one rigid flooring.
Laying out two-layer parquet boards, laying technology
There are several ways to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor:
The worst enemy of a parquet board is open moisture and water condensation, so craftsmen prefer not to lay parquet directly on a concrete floor, even if there is an intermediate layer of primer and protective film. A cold, damp concrete surface always becomes a place for condensation of water vapor, causing swelling and warping of the supporting surface of the parquet board.
Experts recommend laying parquet on a wooden, plywood or cardboard base for two reasons. Firstly, in this way it is possible to additionally compensate for surface defects for laying parquet, and secondly, the adhesion of the base of the parquet board to the concrete base of the floor is improved.
Before making a choice on how to lay the parquet board, it is necessary to bring the quality of the concrete surface to the most even state, without bumps and humps.
Preparing the concrete floor surface for laying parquet
High-quality preparation of a concrete floor before laying parquet requires enormous patience and a significant investment of time and effort. Assembling a flooring from parquet boards is often much easier than leveling a concrete base. But it is extremely important to level it. A parquet floor is not even a laminate or linoleum, which can be laid on almost any concrete screed. On a base with small flaws, with depressions and a slope, a laminate coating can be laid, and only if a high-quality substrate is used.
Why is it so important to lay parquet on a perfectly flat and rigid base surface? The fact is that the behavior of a parquet board is fundamentally different from a classic parquet board. Relatively hard parquet boards of large sizes uneven surface will definitely start “playing” under your feet or under the weight of furniture. As a result, the joints between the parquet flooring will automatically undergo shear and fracture, which will ultimately lead to the destruction of the lock and detachment from the adhesive base.
To install a high-quality parquet board that will last for a couple of decades, you need to do the following:
If the error is within the normal range, you can lay parquet; if during all the manipulations it was not possible to level the concrete surface, then it makes sense to install a self-leveling self-leveling floor, which will allow you to lay parquet without a base or with a minimum thickness of lining material.
If the concrete floor is on the ground floor, and the height allows you to lay another 20-25 mm of leveling mixture, then it would be more rational to use a self-leveling base. Otherwise, you will need to lay cushioning material made of OSB, waterproof plywood or very thick corrugated cardboard. The thickness of the lining is selected as ¾ of the thickness of the parquet board.
Laying parquet boards
Before laying the plywood sheets, the concrete is treated with a thin layer acrylic primer. In order to lay the plywood base as firmly and accurately as possible, the consistency of the glue should correspond to thick sour cream. It is applied to the concrete with a brush and rubbed with a wide steel spatula.
After this, you can lay down sheets of lining material. The procedure is quite labor-intensive, but there is no need to rush. As in the case of leveling a concrete surface under a parquet board, when laying plywood you must try to get the most even horizontal surface possible. Sheets are stacked chessboard or in a “running start”, the seams are sealed with sealant on acrylic base. After about two days, the seams and the plane of the lining layer are checked with a horizontal level and sanded with a belt sander.
Installation of adhesive-based parquet boards
If the concrete base can be leveled with required quality surface, it makes sense to lay the parquet board directly onto the concrete using glue. With this solution, it will be possible to lay the package faster and better than when using a wooden backing.
For gluing parquet, two types of glue are used - acrylic resin and two-component polyurethane. Both glue options allow you to lay parquet with high quality adhesion, so it is not necessary to buy the most expensive brands of glue. Previously, parquet and linoleum were laid on a concrete floor using bitumen-styrene mastic used for waterproofing roofing coverings. The quality and durability of this option were quite high.
Before laying the first two rows, restrictive wedges are installed along the wall, providing a gap of 10-12 mm between the first row and the vertical surface. The glue dries quickly, so it is prepared in small portions and, if possible, used immediately. The adhesive layer is applied with a notched trowel, as in the photo, only on an area the size of a single board, after which the first parquet flooring is laid out with a spike to the wall. In addition to the supporting surface, the glue must be placed in the lock so that the joints between the parquet boards are also glued.
Each subsequent row must be trimmed and laid so that the end seam between the boards is shifted by 1/3 of the length relative to the previous row. Each board must be correctly connected to the previous row, and most importantly, it must be carefully aligned in a horizontal plane and tacked.
After installation, excess glue is removed and the seams are sealed with acrylic sealant. After 4-5 days you can start finishing parquet
In a similar way, you can lay a parquet board on a backing made of plywood or pressed fiberboard.
Free laying parquet
Wooden lined High Quality parquet boards can be laid without the use of nails or adhesives. Typically, such a coating is laid for small rooms, in which the difference in temperature and air humidity can reach significant values. For example, a glazed terrace or a living room.
In this case, the parquet flooring is assembled from individual boards, similar to a laminate flooring. Such parquet is held on the surface of the lining layer only due to the interlocking of the locks, which allows it to expand freely when heated or increased air humidity.
Conclusion
Before you begin laying the flooring, the parquet material must spend at least a week in the room where it is intended to be laid. The boards will gain the required level of moisture, and the floors will not creak or deform due to excess or lack of moisture. After laying the parquet, you will need to sand the seams and pre-sand the surface. Next, all that remains is to treat it with mastic or apply a varnish coating.
Diagonal laying of parquet boards
Installation of tiles on heated floors
How to lay parquet boards correctly
Installation of heated floors under tiles
Parquet board in last years has become a very popular coating, as it is one of the most aesthetic materials for flooring. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of the house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). However, if you purchase a high-quality floor covering, install it correctly and follow the operating instructions, even in damp room parquet boards can last quite a long time.
In any case, it’s not enough to buy high-quality coating– its durability depends on correct installation. Call a specialist? - this may not be cheap, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try to do this work yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, laying parquet boards with your own hands, step-by-step instructions with illustrations.
What is a parquet board?
The structure of the parquet board
First of all, let’s remember once again what is hidden under the term “parquet board”.
This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, higher resistance to external influences, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. Initially, the parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent of innovative technologies, it was repeatedly modernized, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. Thanks to this, this flooring remains in great demand for many decades. In particular, parquet boards have become popular recently, when eco-style is being revived in designer fashion.
Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards go on sale, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and turned out to be much more practical than the original version. The Tarkett company began producing this coating, which to this day supplies its products all over the world, while remaining a leader in this area of production.
The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each layer of the “pie” has a different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers has a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.
- The top layer of parquet boards is made from high-quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it has excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the appearance of the parquet board depends on the quality of this material, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas from which the board is made must not have any defects. They are selected according to textured pattern, as well as color tone. The lamellas are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid coating made from high-quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
- Coniferous wood is usually used to make the middle layer. The blanks have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and impart increased stability to the material. This layer consists of perfectly processed dies of equal width (20÷30 mm), which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7÷8 mm. As a rule, it contains locking connections - shaped grooves and tenons.
- The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a reliable and stable support for top structure and prevents it from sagging. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.
The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully sanded and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is putty, then a primer, lining and decorative varnish, which, after application, hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. This type of flooring does not require additional varnishing after installation.
Prices for parquet boards
parquet board
Advantages and disadvantages of parquet boards
Like any other floor covering, parquet boards have their advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.
- The main advantage of parquet boards, compared to linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
- Parquet board, with high-quality installation, is indistinguishable from natural parquet, and a film with a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. In the best case, the laminate can be covered with natural veneer glued to MDF.
- In parquet boards, solid wood is used only for the top layer, and piece parquet It is made entirely of natural wood, but it also costs several times more than the first one. However, parquet boards are more resistant to deformation processes than parquet, since they have the design described above - alternating layers with different fiber directions. Parquet is quite capricious a material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left to chance, the wood may swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, the parquet strips begin to deform - to bend and warp.
- Compared to the same parquet, parquet boards are much faster and more convenient to install, since they have big sizes. In addition, laying the board does not require special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made, even base for the coating and instructions for its installation.
Parquet, on the other hand, is not so easy to lay, so it is laid by professional craftsmen, whose work is not cheap at all.
- If any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be corrected if the material was not installed with glue. Corrections will be much more difficult with parquet.
- Unlike parquet, parquet boards go on sale with a protective coating applied and can be used for quite a long time without additional treatment. Parquet, after laying it, requires sanding and then coating with special oil or
- A parquet board can imitate parquet, the dies of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, as well as in the form of plank floorboards.
- Parquet boards perfectly imitate plank floors. Moreover the latter is rarely made from valuable wood, as it is too expensive. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost much less.
- The service life of a parquet board is 20–30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as on the accuracy and intensity of its use. In contrast, parquet and solid boards have a longer service life, but require more careful maintenance - sanding, painting or varnishing or oiling. However, it is necessary to clarify that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of its models, having thick enough the top layer is 6 mm, can be sanded 10 or even more times.
Prices for linoleum
linoleum
To summarize, we can come to the conclusion that the design of parquet boards is less demanding to maintain than parquet, and also differs positively in its environmental friendliness from laminate and linoleum. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low, however, its installation can be done independently, while it is unlikely that it will be possible to cope with the installation of natural parquet on your own.
Preparing the base for laying parquet boards
Parquet flooring can be laid on various bases - concrete floors, plank or plywood floors, and even on an old but durable tiled floor ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is smooth, without protrusions or large depressions, so the surface must be carefully prepared.
The preparatory activities before laying parquet boards include several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.
- The first step is a thorough inspection of the foundation. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. The cracks are expanded and sealed with concrete or other composite repair mortar(with special putty). Individual recesses are also leveled with concrete, and big enough the protrusions are knocked down. Small imperfections can be smoothed out by laying a special underlay on the floors.
- In addition, the base surface is checked for evenness using a building level. It is acceptable for unevenness to be 2÷2.5 mm per linear meter, but nothing more.
- If the quality of the base does not fit within the permissible errors, then leveling will have to be arranged. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or put the floor in a horizontal plane with the installation of joists and subsequent fastening of plywood or boards to them.
- If only minor floor defects are found that still need to be leveled, this can also be done by attaching plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the “ brickwork", that is, in a running start. The sheets can be screwed or glued to the concrete.
Laminate prices
- Before laying parquet boards or plywood directly on concrete, the base must be well primed to strengthen the surface and prevent the appearance of dust.
- If the board will be laid directly on a concrete surface, then a substrate will be laid underneath it.
Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, and cork material in slabs and rolls are used as this layer.
A cork sheet or slab backing is most often glued to the base, since it not only smoothes out small irregularities, but also acts as insulation.
Both roll and slab materials are laid end-to-end.
It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet, as well as linoleum as a substrate, as this material can become deformed and pull the parquet boards along with it. In addition, during its operation, old flooring absorbs various odors that a new parquet board cannot hide.
- You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools to perform the work. The list of things required for installation includes:
- electric jigsaw, circular saw or hacksaw with fine tooth pitch;
- rubber hammer - for tamping rows;
- screwdriver;
- rule and construction level;
- square and tape measure;
- regular and notched spatulas;
— a special bracket for tightening boards. It can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel strip 4÷5 mm thick.
- tamping block. Can also be “store bought” or homemade;
- spacer wedges.
Having prepared everything you need, you need to do a thorough cleaning again. In particular, the floor surface must be carefully treated before laying any material. Any small pebble that accidentally remains on the coating can greatly harm the overall quality of the resulting floor.
Features of laying parquet boards
Before moving on to the step-by-step instructions for installing parquet flooring, it’s worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.
- The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought into the house must be aged in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase was made during the cold season, and the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is quite large. In the room where the covering will be laid, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees and the humidity 30÷60%. To “track”, it is better to free the board from the factory polymer packaging.
- Before moving on to preparing the floors and installing the covering, you need to draw up in advance an approximate layout of the board, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to this drawing, it will be easier to navigate when laying masonry. It becomes possible to immediately determine the best size of cut boards, which are usually laid along both edges of the row or only on one side.
- Sections of boards laid in a row must have a length of at least 500 mm.
- When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards of the last row, since they, as a rule, have to be trimmed. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the covering should be moved a little, that is, cutting the boards not only of the last, but also of the first row.
- Parquet boards are laid “in a running pattern”. This means that the boards of the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length relative to the first row.
- Taking into account the features and shape of the room, the location is chosen, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the pattern.
— The simplest option, which is most often chosen for installation, is to install the board along or across the room. It is worth considering that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and longitudinal installation will lengthen it. This “optical game” will help solve the problem of a room that is too long or narrow.
Prices for parquet underlay
underlay for parquet
— The second installation option is diagonal laying. It is more complex to implement and involves quite a lot of waste, which means that the cost of purchasing a board will be increased, since more will be required. her quantity. This installation method is perfect for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards closest to the wall are cut cleanly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the covering begins from the middle of the room. To do this, a line is drawn diagonally across the room - from corner to corner - or a cord is pulled along which the first row of covering is laid. Then, the masonry continues first in one and then in the other direction from the central row.
Parquet board installation technology
Understanding technological methods flooring of this covering, you need to consider all aspects.
So, parquet boards can be laid in three ways - “floating” masonry, with glue or with logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are and understand their advantages and disadvantages.
"Floating" parquet flooring
This installation of parquet boards is carried out without fixing the covering to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only through locking connections located along the edges of the boards.
Such installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.
TO "pros" This technology includes:
- Simplicity and speed of masonry.
- Possibility to correct errors made during installation.
- Possibility of replacing individual covering boards if they are damaged.
- Easy to dismantle the board and the possibility of recycling. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be placed again in one of the rooms.
- The resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, since the design has the ability to expand the material.
- Saving on glue purchases.
- The floating coating can be used immediately after completion of installation work.
"Cons" This installation method can be considered:
- The “floating” coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of more than 50 square meters.
- It is not recommended for installation in rooms where high loads will be placed on the floors.
- The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, so it is necessary to cover it. However, this material will be cheaper than special glue.
Adhesive method of installing parquet boards
The name of this installation method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.
Moreover When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for the specific type of parquet board.
Installation using this method is carried out in stages. At the same time, strict adherence to all technological recommendations that have been tested by experts and proven their importance is of particular importance.
- The adhesive installation method is used if the board is planned to be laid on concrete covering, which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the first floor of the house, where there is a high probability of moisture penetrating the ceilings and walls, then it is best to soak the floors waterproofing composition deep penetration, which will protect surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only to the floors, but also to the lower part of the walls, in a strip of 100÷120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
- The next step is to lay a parquet board along one of the walls, and between it and the wall, at a distance of approximately 400÷500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts are installed that will provide a compensation gap. They will allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, allowing the flooring to remain level.
- Next, having adjusted the length of the last board in the row (how this is done will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula to an area 80÷100 mm wider than the outer line of the row. After application, the glue is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
- Now it's time to lay the parquet board on a layer of glue. It must be immediately precisely joined together using locking joints - this process is carried out in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.
- When the entire row of boards has been laid, in some cases the coating can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. Holes are drilled in increments of 300÷350 mm.
- Then the adhesive mass is again applied to the concrete base and distributed over its surface.
- In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already glued board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then connected to the elements of the first row, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.
- If two rows do not fit tightly to each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth block is placed at the edge of the outer row and carefully tapped with a rubber hammer so as not to break the locking joint on the parquet board. Melt tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
- The entire floor covering is glued in a similar manner.
- Do not allow glue to get on the front side of the parquet board. If this happens, the drops are immediately removed - for this you should always have a clean rag at hand.
- When the floor surface of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating should be left to dry for 2-3 days, without putting any load on it. It is necessary to consider measures to prevent even accidental passage into the room. The drying time for the glue is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
- After the glue under the coating has completely dried, the seams between the boards should be treated with acrylic transparent sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture from the outside getting under the boards.
- When the sealant has completely cured, you can remove the inserts along the walls and begin installing the baseboards, as well as the interior threshold.
It must be said that the adhesive fastening method is chosen if the floor surface has slight unevenness, which can be corrected using a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.
TO positive aspects Adhesive installation of the coating can include:
- The ability to use this material in areas of any size.
- Higher resistance to increased loads.
- The method is suitable for installing parquet boards on top of a screed installed above a warm water floor.
TO shortcomings glue installations include:
- Costs for purchasing glue.
- Possibility of using the room only after the glue has completely dried.
- More complex installation coverings.
- Inability to correct mistakes made in masonry.
- Difficulty in replacing damaged boards.
Installation of parquet boards on logs
Laying parquet boards can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the logs or on the one laid on them plywood.
If you choose the first installation option, then you need to take into account that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case is it guaranteed not to bend under external load. In addition, the logs must have big enough width (about 80÷90 mm) and laid on the base in small increments - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Board joints in one row are made in the middle of the joist width.
The second option involves fixing the logs to the base in increments of 500÷600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the boards.
Both one and the other installation options are convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by aligning the logs in a horizontal plane.
The logs selected for parquet flooring must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.
Prices for parquet glue
parquet glue
Depending on how much you plan to raise the finished floor above the base, the joists can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled using special racks or studs.
If floors with joists are installed in a private house or in an apartment located on the ground floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is required waterproof. This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, dense polyethylene film or roofing felt.
Logs are fixed on top of the waterproofing, between which the insulation material, which is covered with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as insulation.
Then, sheets of plywood are fixed along the joists using self-tapping screws, between which a compensation gap of 2.5÷3 mm must be provided. Fastening screws are screwed into the joists through the plywood covering in increments of 150÷180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the joist.
Installation of parquet boards using “floating” technology - step-by-step instructions
Due to the fact that the most popular method of laying parquet boards is its “floating” version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its finale.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | So, the first step is to lay the waterproofing material. In this case, polyethylene film was chosen for this purpose. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is laid not only on the horizontal surface of the floor, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a material of small thickness is chosen that will fall on the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed to the wall masking tape. But, it would still be better to choose a thick film - this will reduce the time required for gluing it. |
 | The next step is to lay a backing on the waterproofing material. In this case, dense foamed polyethylene was chosen, but it can easily be replaced with cork roll or slab material. First, only one sheet of backing is laid roll type along the wall from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if you cover the room completely, it will interfere with the work, moving in one direction or the other. Typically, flooring begins to be laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how its installation is planned - along or across the room. |
 | After this, a pre-designed material laying scheme and prepared spacer wedges are taken, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10÷15 mm. |
 | The next step is to lay the first parquet board. Temporarily it is pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position. |
 | Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board bordering the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The pitch between the wedges along the long side of the board should be about 500 mm. |
 | Next comes the laying of the second board of the first row. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock. |
 | Docking locks from different manufacturers may vary slightly, but usually when connected they seem to snap together. |
 | It is important that the second and subsequent boards are installed exactly the width of the previous board. If one of them is shifted in outside, the next row will not be able to match the previous one. This illustration clearly shows what the connection of two boards along the length of a row should look like. |
 | Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, use a tape measure or metal ruler to measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. At the same time, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10÷15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to accidentally prevent errors when measuring, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance from it. |
 | The next step is to apply a whole board to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on the wrong side. Next, following the mark along the construction corner, a line is drawn perpendicular to the edges, along which, using circular saw or electric jigsaw a cut is made. |
 | The prepared section is joined to the rest of the boards of the first row, while spacer wedges are also installed along the wall. |
 | The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often begins the second row (if the length of this piece allows). It is connected to the first row with a lock located along the long side of the board. |
 | Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The difficulty of laying it is that it needs to be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent boards. Some joints are designed to join boards first along the length of a row, and then fasten the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the board of the first row and then joined to the previous board. The entire floor covering is laid in the same way. However, there are probably places in any room that make work difficult. |
 | So that the board lies neatly next to front door, and the threshold was in its opening, at the bottom of the door frame a cut is made to the wall, as shown in the photo. However, the board is not put in place yet, since it can be damaged by further actions. |
 | The next step is to mark the location of the threshold, which will press the edges of the boards in the doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay a support along the width of the opening, onto which the threshold will then be attached. Along it, from the side of the parquet being laid, you need to run a sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of the backing material, which will interfere with the tight fit of the underfloor to the base. |
 | Next, marks are made using a marker or pencil through the mounting holes provided in the support. Then the supports are removed, and holes are drilled according to the markings. |
 | Plastic dowel plugs are inserted into the holes. Then the support is installed in place, which is secured with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes into the dowel plugs located in the base. |
 | Next, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will fit into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, will not be able to be lifted and secured with a lock, as happened when installing the remaining boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board using a chisel. This process will have to be carried out not only along the length of the board, but also along its width. |
 | Then, carpenter's or other glue is applied in a strip to the cut sections of the boards, intended for fastening wooden parts. |
 | Now the board is slipped into the gap under door frame and advances to the already laid coating. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut locking lines with glue applied to them. |
 | If necessary, the glued board can be knocked through the timber provided for this purpose, using a hammer, since there should be no gap left in the connection of the board with the main covering. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway. |
 | The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, with one edge facing the doorway. They are laid edgewise on the supports fixed with self-tapping screws. After this, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the threshold. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base, and also sandwiched between two metal strips of the threshold. |
 | If you plan to continue laying the parquet boards and next room, then instead metal threshold You can install a plastic docking profile. To do this, its lower part is fixed to the base, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that connects to the bottom. It must be remembered that a compensation gap of 4÷5 mm must be provided between the lower element of the profile and the boards. |
 | Another rather difficult area for laying parquet boards is the heating pipes that go into the interfloor ceiling. Of course, you can finish the board by reaching the pipes, and also put a piece behind them along the wall flooring material, but such styling will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap, as well as between the pipes. Decide this problem quite simply by laying a board in front of the pipes and marking their location along its width. |
 | Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and using a construction square, a line for the location of the risers is marked on it, which will intersect the previously marked lines. |
 | This way, points will be found where holes will need to be drilled. |
 | To drill holes you will need a core drill of the required diameter. For this version of the pipes shown in the picture, a crown with a diameter of 30 mm was used. |
 | The next step is to make a cut along a line running across the board. The cut should go through the middle of the round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut part of the board is placed behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes. |
 | Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which the rest of the board is moved to the front of the pipes and joined to the segment, that is, pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After this, the gaps remaining between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames that look like donuts. These masking parts have connectors that allow them to be separated in two and installed with different sides pipes and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust getting in, but will also give the passage of pipes through the flooring a neat appearance. |
 | Many craftsmen installing parquet boards for the first time have problems laying the last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to join the board or its cut part with the rest of the covering. |
 | If the boards of the last row are not tightly pressed against the previous row, it must be tightened using special device, called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, upward-curved edge. Tamping is carried out until the board is pressed tightly against the rest of the covering and snaps into place. |
 | Having pulled up the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and proceed to installing and securing the baseboard brackets to the wall. |
 | These parts may have different shape, and they are selected depending on what kind of baseboard it is planned to use for the floor covering. The brackets are fixed to the wall in increments of 400÷500 mm. |
 | The plinth can have a flat or figured shape. As a rule, with his inside A cable channel is provided for communications. Therefore, before installing the plinth into the brackets, cables are laid in it. |
 | Now all that remains is to install the baseboard in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or be screwed to them. If the latter option is chosen, then a blank strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open a channel through which the baseboards will be fixed to the brackets. Then, the strip is returned to its place, which will disguise the heads of the mounting screws. It is important that the plinth may have a different design and be attached in a different way. But its fixation should never be carried out to the floor covering - exclusively to the wall! |
 | The last step is using sharp knife The waterproofing material protruding above the baseboard is carefully cut off. The knife must be very sharp so that the film can be cut easily, since pressing on the wall can damage its finish. |
 | The result of the work done will be a neat, warm and very practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years. |
Now, after careful study presented above material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, the “floating” installation of parquet boards can be done independently by leveling and properly preparing the base for its installation.
And finally, traditionally, a short video that demonstrates the process of laying parquet boards on a plywood base.
Video: Glue method of laying parquet boards on a plywood base
Exists huge selection floor coverings. Parquet boards have an attractive appearance and durability, which has led to the popularity of this material.
Parquet boards require a perfectly flat and very dry base. But wooden floors, especially old ones, rarely meet these criteria. What to do? Read our article.
Parquet board is a ready-to-use multilayer coating consisting of:
- Top wear-resistant protective layer: polyurethane, urethane-alkyd varnish, oil, oil-wax or wax treatment.
- Array valuable breed wood with a layer of up to 6 mm: beech, oak, maple and many others. Collections famous manufacturers There are more than 50 designs, including bleached or tinted wood, brushed or artificially aged (rustic).
- Base slab up to 9 mm thick made of spliced pine or other coniferous species. Its fibers are located transversely to the top layer, which helps protect the structure from various deformations and distortions.
- Stabilization layer with longitudinally arranged fibers. This helps reduce the stress of the layers and ensures a stable geometry of the planks. Thickness – up to 3 mm.
Thanks to this design, parquet boards, unlike solid wood boards, are not afraid of bending and twisting deformations and are resistant to temperature changes.
Another difference between parquet boards and massive (solid) ones is that there are 4 installation methods: floating, glued, with hardware and on logs. If the base is wooden floors, the first two methods are considered optimal. The table below shows their advantages and disadvantages.
| “Floating” (independent of the base) installation method | Adhesive installation method |
| Simple and quick installation. | Installation takes time: first you need to apply glue, then remove the excess. |
| The connection is strong immediately after installation. | The connections become strong after the glue has completely dried. |
| The floor is ready for use after installation is complete. | Foot traffic on the floor is permitted 12 hours after installation. Full setting occurs after 1-5 days, depending on the composition of the glue. |
| It is possible to correct errors during the operation of the floor covering. | Correcting defects during installation is problematic, and after completion of the work it is almost impossible. |
| A standard set of tools is used. | In addition to the regular kit, there is a special glue. |
| Damaged strips can be easily replaced. | Replacing damaged boards is difficult. |
| Possible repair work grounds. | Access to the base is difficult. |
| Quick dismantling. | Difficult dismantling. |
| The maximum laying area allowed by manufacturers is up to 240 m2. Above - only using transition thresholds (aluminum or plastic). | The laying area is not limited. |
| The design is stable, but due to changes in temperature and humidity it may change slightly geometric dimensions. | The structure is stable. |
Rules for laying on a wooden floor
A wooden floor is a capricious base. If all factors are not taken into account, then unpleasant squeaks when walking, uneven surfaces, local swelling and other defects will appear very quickly. Therefore, manufacturers strongly recommend using methodological instructions given on inserts or brochures.
Laying parquet boards on a wooden floor is carried out in 3 stages. Acceptable temperature regime for the installation period - from +18 to +25 °C, humidity - 30-60%.
Preparing a Wooden Subfloor
A wooden or parquet floor does not have an ideal attachment to the base, which is why defects such as “humps”, creaks, drops, gaps, etc. appear. The following activities are carried out:
- Rough sanding of the canvas using a parquet sander and angle grinder.
- Puttying the entire surface with a mixture of sawdust and base liquid for putties. Or all joints, corners, junctions, and gaps are sealed with the finished putty mixture.
- Repeated sanding with a surface grinder. If there are strong swellings or “humps”, then they must be cut off, if possible, pulled to the concrete base with self-tapping screws, and secured.
Often, for complete leveling, it is recommended to lay sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 12 mm or more. Fasten with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws crosswise every 30-50 cm, recess the caps by 3-4 mm before grinding. The compensation gap between the layers must be at least 5 mm. After installation, you also need to go over the plywood with a sander to level and adjust the joints.
The finished base needs to be vacuumed and the surface can be treated with a primer with fungicidal additives. This will improve adhesion and protect the base from possible mold and bugs in the future.
Laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor is more problematic. For this, full stitching is recommended, that is, weak strips are identified and re-glued to the base. Puttying of all defects and sanding is required.
Preparing parquet boards for installation
The parquet board must “acclimatize” to the room. Therefore, 48 hours before installation, the packaged flooring must be brought into the room and left. Unpacking is carried out immediately before installation.
As wood is a natural product, slight variations in color, tone or texture may occur. In addition, some species darken in the first few days after unpacking (bamboo and others). This is a normal process, there is no need to be alarmed.
Experienced craftsmen prefer to first unpack the entire parquet board, inspect it for defects and make a preliminary layout in order to know which planks will have to be cut.
It is not allowed to use pieces less than 50 cm long and less than 5 cm wide.
Installation should be done in a checkerboard pattern, that is, so that the joints do not coincide. This installation will avoid geometric deformations in the future and increase the strength of the canvas.
Floating installation
When temperature and humidity change, wood products change their geometric dimensions - they slightly narrow and expand. Therefore, compensation gaps of 10-15 mm should be left around the perimeter of the walls. This will protect the future floor from swelling.
The floor heating system must be turned off 6-8 hours before laying the parquet boards. Installation starts from the far wall. A backing made of cork or foamed polyethylene 3 mm thick is laid on the base.
Along the perimeter of walls, columns, pipes and other vertical fixed structures, plastic or homemade wooden limiters are installed every 5 cm.
At the first row, the protruding part of the groove is cut off. The first plank is laid, leveled, the second is brought to it and snapped into place. It's the same with the rest. The second row starts with a short (cut) board.
Installation should be carried out from the connection of the end edges, then the joining is made along the long side. The last row is cut to the required size, but the width must be at least 5 cm. Tapping using a block and a small hammer or mallet is allowed.
After completion of the work, the restrictive wedges are removed and the plinth is installed. Treatment with varnish or oil compounds is not required, since the parquet board is already coated with special protective agents at the factory.
Glue installation
Installation with glue is similar to the floating method with the difference that a thick adhesive composition on a synthetic basis (Barlinek, Khomakol, etc.) is applied to the base. Water-dispersion mixtures cannot be used.
The protruding edge of the first row is cut off. Restrictive wedges are installed along the perimeter. Glue is applied to the floor and spread evenly with a notched trowel. The strip should be slightly wider than the width of the parquet board.
A row is laid and pressed to the base. To be on the safe side, you can fix it with nails without heads or weight it on top until the glue dries. The next row begins with the distribution of a new portion of glue and laying the boards offset. After completion of the work, the wedges are removed.
So, we figured out how to lay parquet boards on a wooden floor. It is really simple and less expensive than installing solid parquet. Follow our recommendations and your coating will serve you for many years.
Parquet has long been considered one of the most the best materials for finishing the floor. And to this day it is like that natural coating remains popular, in particular for decorating rooms in both classical and modern style. Many people wonder how to lay parquet, or rather, what methods exist and what should be kept in mind during this work. Modern technologies make it possible to install with a minimum number of cracks.
Choosing a parquet board
There are several factors that affect the service life of the floor, its quality and other characteristics, namely:
- Top layer thickness. The service life of the parquet board directly depends on this indicator, since over time the surface wears off, scratches and other physical damage appear. This, in turn, requires further finishing - scraping and polishing.
Important! The greater the thickness of the top layer, the large quantity stages of processing can withstand the coating without losing its performance qualities.
- Overall thickness of the board. The thickness of the parquet board is within the range of 7-25 mm. In residential premises it is recommended to lay parquet boards with a thickness of at least 13 mm. For laying on top of a concrete screed, it is advisable to choose a 22-25 mm board; for plywood or joists, a smaller thickness is allowed.
- Type of wood and quality of its processing. A high-quality board must be well sanded. If you detect the slightest irregularities, roughness or other defects, it is better to refuse the purchase. It is also necessary to pay attention to the type of wood - depending on the type of wood, the moisture resistance of the coating, its hardness and resistance to temperature changes may differ.
Important! When choosing, you should take into account the conditions in a particular room: temperature, humidity level, expected loads.
- Dimensions. Standard dimensions are within the width of 13-20 mm, length - 1.7-2.5 m. The top sheet can consist of either a solid solid piece of wood or several tightly fitted lamellas that imitate type-setting parquet. Can be one-, two-, three- or four-lane.
- Quality of locks. The absence of chips, damage, as well as high-quality processing of joints guarantees simple and quick installation of parquet boards.
- Type and properties of coating. If the surface of the board is varnished, then you should inquire about the number of layers applied - the wear resistance of the material and its durability will depend on this.
Important! The correctly selected type of wood will make it possible to avoid drying out and cracking of the material in high temperature or deformation due to high humidity. For example, beech flooring is not recommended for use in rooms with a humidity of 60%.
Materials and tools
To make the result decent and make the work easier, you need to have the following tools and supporting materials on hand:
- Level.
- Plumb.
- Roulette.
- Beam or finishing strip.
- Pencil.
- Square.
- Saw.
- Wooden wedges.
- Hammer.
- Electric jigsaw.
- A sharpened knife.
- Finishing crutch.
- Dowels, nails, screws.
- Polystyrene foam or roofing cardboard.
- Embedded bushings for pipes.
- Wear-resistant polyethylene.
- Glue (PVA or D3).
Rules for laying parquet boards
To install parquet correctly, you must consider the following:
- The main rule when laying is that the base (floor) must be perfectly flat.
Important! However, there are still tolerances for unevenness - 3 mm for several meters. Moreover, this defect can only be where the hole does not turn into a hillock - in other words, unevenness can only be smooth.
- Parquet boards should be laid exclusively on dry floors. If the screed is completely fresh, there is no need to carry out work.
Important! To make sure that the screed is completely dry, you can use a special device. If you do not have such a device, then there is a proven method: oilcloth is laid on the surface for a day. If after this time condensation appears on the material, then the floor is not yet ready for laying parquet.
- It is recommended to leave the purchased material in the package indoors for a couple of days for “acclimatization.”
- If installation is carried out in a newly constructed building, then it is advisable to ventilate well and also heat it for a month.
Important! It is not recommended to lay parquet in an unheated room.
Preparing the base
Before laying parquet, it is necessary to prepare the base. As mentioned above, it must be dry and as even as possible.
The amount of work depends on the basis, because:
- in multi-apartment brick or panel buildings, the reinforced concrete floor serves as the base;
- in houses old building floors can be made of lightweight types of concrete located on wooden or metal load-bearing beams;
- in private cottages or houses, the basis can be special supports that were installed directly on the ground.
If parquet is laid on a concrete base, the floor must be leveled. The screed is done exclusively for dry leveling. Then the surface of the screed is treated with a primer.
Important! If there is moisture in concrete floor it is necessary to carry out additional waterproofing work.
Installation work finishing coating are made only after the screed has completely dried - no less than 28 days after pouring. When leveling the base using plywood sheets and the lag, the space between the lags is filled with mineral wool, and the sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws.
Important! When laying on a subfloor, wooden or metal floors are used, hydro- and thermal insulation is made using polyurethane, polyethylene film, mineral wool or other materials.
Methods for laying parquet boards
There are two main ways to properly lay parquet. Let's look at each of them in more detail.
Floating method
Most manufacturers make boards equipped with a locking joint, which eliminates the need for glue. The groove-lock connection is durable, can withstand heavy loads, and is resistant to humidity and temperature changes.
Laying parquet on a screed without plywood involves the use of a backing that provides additional hydro- and thermal insulation. The backing can be made from synthetic materials or cork. Its thickness should not exceed 3 mm, otherwise the floor will deform under load.
The installation process is carried out as follows:
- Remove all dust and debris from the surface of the screed using a vacuum cleaner.
- A hydro- and heat-insulating layer is laid. The joints are sealed.
- Measure the room and select the required amount of material. All technical holes for pipes and other communications are drilled in the parquet board.
- The first board is placed with a tenon in the direction long wall, ensuring a gap of 8-10 mm using a wooden wedge.
Important! The gap is necessary to compensate for expansion under the influence of temperature changes.
- The second board is installed at an angle of 25-30 degrees relative to the first - when lowered, the lock snaps into place. Using a hammer and finishing beam, carefully, so as not to damage the lock, additionally seal the joint. Subsequent boards are attached in the same way.
- Upon reaching end wall The board is cut to the required length using a hacksaw or jigsaw. The cut point should be located in the direction of the wall - after completion of the work it will be covered with a plinth.
- A plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.
This installation method has a number of advantages:
- The premises are ready for use immediately after completion of the work.
- The covering is easily repaired - in case of damage, individual parts can be replaced without the need to remove the entire floor.
- It is possible to dismantle and reuse the material.
The disadvantages include the following factors:
- There is a limitation on the area of the room - no more than 50 square meters.
- Walking makes more noise.
- More complex processing must be done using a grinding machine.
Glue method
Correctly laying parquet on plywood or OSB board using glue is quite simple. However, the following points must be taken into account when working:
- Laying is carried out from the far corner of the room in relation to the entrance doors.
- Unlike the “floating” method of laying parquet, gluing requires a perfectly flat surface without any unevenness.
- Laying parquet on a wooden floor can only be done after careful sanding and sanding.
- The best characteristics for gluing parquet have two-component polyurethane adhesive.
- Gluing is done both to the base and along the entire perimeter of the board (both width and length).
- For additional fixation Nails or self-tapping screws may be used to connect the bottom of the joint to the plywood base.
- The room temperature should be at least 18 degrees, air humidity within 40-60 percent, and screed humidity no higher than 12 percent.
- Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB board should be fixed rigidly.
- Walking on the floor surface is allowed only after it has completely dried.
Important! The adhesive method of fastening gives greater rigidity to the floor compared to a “floating” one; the coating ultimately produces less noise when walking on it. At the same time, repair and dismantling of such a structure is more problematic.
