How to make polymer self-leveling floors. DIY polymer floors. Polyurethane or epoxy floors

When planning to independently install a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors; the procedure is complex and labor-intensive.

Coating features

Self-leveling polymer flooring is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by enhanced decorative properties.

Fill thickness in in this case varies between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is not advisable to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, but the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application: residential and public buildings.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin-layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors subjected to medium mechanical loads, protecting concrete floors from aggressive environments and dust, giving a decorative appearance
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, sand filling by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are used in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are placed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, are decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, and repairable
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, sand filling by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors are used in conditions with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. Such floors are characterized by particularly high resistance to impact loads and wear resistance. Their properties are close to polymer concrete.
Self-leveling colorless epoxy composition	Density 1.10. The A:B ratio is 100:60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, clear, solvent-free epoxy system for high-performance decorative topcoats.
Universal epoxy filler	Density 1.50. The A:B ratio is 100:10. Life time 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Two-component painted epoxy compound for leveling and finishing polymer coatings on concrete both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy filler	Density 1.65. A:B ratio -100:10. Life time 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete bases in warehouses, production, installation and other premises with requirements for conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. The A:B ratio is 100:20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a heterochain polymer, are classified as rigid-elastic, that is, with high mechanical strength they have a sufficient elasticity resource. They install polyurethane floor coverings in a wide variety of premises - production and industrial, residential and public, in children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers and so on. In terms of layer thickness, polyurethane flooring can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, which has increased resistance to abrasion and impact loads. The polyurethane coating can be given various special properties (antistatic, anti-slip).

Other advantages of polymer floors include:

wear resistance;
dustlessness;
immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
wide range of colors - the coating can be either colored or transparent;
no odor during installation;
possibility of applying 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible thanks to the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, it is applied finishing coat(more on this at the end of the article).

Due to their high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create complete compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances; let’s consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

The installation of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleared of debris and dust, furniture is removed, and decorative elements (such as baseboards, cornices) are dismantled.

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and a grinder to remove glue and remnants of the old coating. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next comes the preliminary preparation of the base. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, all cracks should be filled, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there are no difficulties in disposing of solvent residues, you can add a surfactant or KM alkali solution. Although today you can buy special products for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which at the same time protect the surface from fungal growth.

Step 4. Floor moisture is assessed using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer fill will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of the concrete is assessed; if it is above 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed firmly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Moisture meter for concrete floor

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, a chisel mounted perpendicular to the surface is struck with a hammer. If the concrete did not crumble, and the chisel left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. Check for waterproofing. If it is not there, then further work on creating a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, if the insulation is of poor quality, moisture will rise through the capillaries into concrete covering to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If a polymer floor is to be poured onto a tile, its voids are first checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have come loose from the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be filled with putty.

After this, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This concept is used to denote the difference in height between the highest and lowest points of the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer the floor is filled with an assembly leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1:2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then the surface will need to be filled with a corrective mixture (sand and cement in a ratio of 2:1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures You can use a special leveling solution designed for this thickness.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything necessary. To work you will need:

polymer leveling mixture;
deep penetration primer mixture;
putty knife;
building level;
squeegee;
electric drill with mixer attachment;
needle roller;
container for preparing the solution.

Stage 4. Primer

It is better to use a roller to apply the primer layer. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to allow the mixture to dry.

Here are the main functions of priming:

improved flow polymer composition;
improved adhesion to the base;
preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied before each of them.

Note! Indoors with increased level humidity, the primer layer is coated with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primers are toxic, so you should take care of them in advance. high-quality ventilation premises. Moreover, the temperature must not be allowed to drop - if it drops below +15? C, the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

A minimum of 24 hours is required for the primed surface to dry completely.

Stage 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a poured floor is a thermal expansion joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this purpose they take wooden slats(necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming during significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken very seriously, since poor quality of pouring will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is typical that after preparation the solution must be poured out as quickly as possible, because it hardens within a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room when pouring should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another bigger size, filled cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

a small ring is cut out of a deodorant cap and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
the ring is filled with solution and raised;
When the solution spreads evenly into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture turns out to be too thick, then it will not be able to level out properly, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Pouring the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as conventional self-leveling floors.

Step 1. The first portion of the solution is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the solution is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The entire room is flooded at once, otherwise there will be differences.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller - this is necessary to remove air.

Step 3. After this, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is flooded.

Step 4. After 48 hours of pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. During the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a “warm floor” is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start with room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3? C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself poured floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

place the finished image in advance;
make a drawing on the coating.

In the first case you will need acrylic paints resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This is a simpler and cheaper method, because today you can purchase the image you like as a printout on a plotter (in this case, banner fabric is used as the basis). During installation, the fabric is covered with a thermal insulating vinyl film to increase its service life.

The dimensions of the image should exceed the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to re-glue it.

Video - 3D floors

The technology for creating a 3D image is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is thoroughly primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take a day for the primer layer to polymerize.

Step 2. The image is pasted onto the primer and rolled with a dry, clean roller. It is typical that you can only move on the floor in special studded shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This happens in the same way as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries and can be treated with clear varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

Floors are one of the most difficult interior parts to repair and replace, as they require significant reworking of the entire room. It is temporarily impossible to live where the gender is changed, because there are problems with walking around the room. In addition, replacing floors is often accompanied by replacing baseboards, and this, in turn, often leads to damage to the wall finish - in a word, replacement flooring almost equals a complete renovation of the entire premises. That is why maximum attention is paid to the choice of floor coverings.

Every customer wants such repairs to last at least a decade, or even longer, fortunately, modern choice materials contribute to this. In addition to classic types of wood, modern designs are increasingly using various synthetic materials, and with a peculiar squeak of fashion in last years is a polymer self-leveling floor.

What it is?

A polymer floor is fundamentally different from other types of floor coverings because it is not laid, but poured. The material is made from various polymers and is sold in liquid form. To pour this type of floor, first make a full base of concrete screed or any other dense material, on top of which a thin layer of liquid polymer is poured. When it hardens after a certain time, it gives a perfectly smooth, and most importantly, even (due to the property of the liquid to form a uniform level) surface without the slightest joints.

Initially, this type of coating was used in public institutions with a huge turnover of people - for example, in airport lobbies. This use is due to maximum ease of cleaning, caused by the integrity of the coating without any seams or joints, as well as the high strength of the material, which makes it possible not to close terminals and other premises of special public importance for long-term repairs.

However, private consumers quickly appreciated all the advantages of such a floor and began to be interested in the possibilities of pouring polymers on private property, and manufacturers promptly responded to the increasing demand and presented more affordable, but no less high-quality options for homes and apartments.

Today, polymer self-leveling floors are available in any major city; they are successfully poured in rooms of any size and purpose.

At the same time, the main consumers are still industrial enterprises and public institutions, but for home use such coverage may be appropriate. Polymer floors are available in two main varieties, but if you consider the minor differences, you can count a huge number of different options, each of which has its own advantages and is optimally suited for a particular type of room.

Peculiarities

If for public institutions and industrial enterprises The use of such floors is almost a panacea for all ills, but not every owner still decides to use such a coating in an apartment. It is possible that the design aspect also plays an important role in the selection process, after all, such a floor is not always able to create the necessary comfort or just fit into the desired style, but still, before installation, you need to once again go over the advantages and disadvantages of this material in the conditions of an ordinary home.

If you look at the advantages, they are very numerous and will make many people urgently interested in the prices of this product. Here are the main advantages of using this type of flooring at home:

High elasticity ensures that the floor is practically not subject to any mechanical damage - it can easily survive even a small earthquake, because, if necessary, it can stretch and compress.
Chemical resistance allows the floor covering not to change its appearance even under the influence of any aggressive chemicals, from detergents of any type to others accidentally spilled.
The polymers underlying such a floor can continue the phrase “water wears away stone, but self-leveling flooring does not.” Moreover, due to the integrity of the seamless coating, it is also excellent waterproofing - even if there is a flood in the apartment, the neighbors below will not know about it.
The polymer coating is non-flammable and therefore fully complies with fire safety standards.

This type of floor is very easy to maintain, because it allows the use of any type of detergent, and also prevents dirt from getting into the seams, which simply do not exist.
The service life of a high-quality polymer coating, even in conditions of the highest daily traffic, is no less than ten years, and in an apartment this is an almost eternal option.
Many people fear that the high smoothness of the surface will result in slipperiness, but in fact this is not the case at all.
Modern self-leveling floors and the technique of pouring them make it possible to achieve a very noticeable artistic effect.

All of the listed properties literally force you to immediately give them preference. However, there is not a single construction or finishing material, which would not have some disadvantages. Naturally, self-leveling floors also have them, and although there are not so many of them, they are serious enough to deter most potential clients:

For real high quality costs big money, and although in recent years developers have done everything possible to reduce the cost of the material, it is still more expensive absolute majority analogues. An attempt to save money, by the way, can be fraught, since the cheapest types of polymer-based floors, judging by reviews, fade quite quickly in bright sunlight.
The high cost concerns not only the material itself, but also the work performed. Although the liquid used for filling is capable of leveling the level on its own, due to its high cost it is usually Special attention focus on creating a perfectly smooth and balanced base. It is quite expensive, and also takes a lot of time, not to mention the fact that for a high-quality result you need confidence in the high professionalism and dedication of the workers.

Polymer flooring is a very durable type of repair. It is durable and reliable so much that no one has yet come up with an adequate way to dismantle such a coating. Consequently, if the self-leveling floor gets tired, or, worse, wears out to the point of obvious need for replacement, a new coating will have to be done directly on top of it, which in the conditions of most standard old apartments that do not have very high ceilings will lead to a noticeable reduction in space. And if replacing one self-leveling floor with another, as is done in airports or industrial workshops, will take a maximum of a couple of millimeters, then replacing with parquet will take no less than a couple of centimeters, which can even force you to redo the doors. This is a significant disadvantage of such coverage.
Pouring a polymer floor is a difficult task, since the material is very demanding in terms of hardening conditions. For a perfectly flat surface, it is necessary that the base humidity does not exceed 4%. The permissible temperature fluctuation in the room during hardening is two degrees in one direction or another.

In other words, normal filling is only possible in a sealed room and stable weather conditions.

Kinds

Self-leveling floors, also known as 3D, are now available in a wide variety of types, which helps to more accurately select the properties that are optimal in certain conditions. Although not all of them seem suitable for home use, some consideration must be given to each type to prove that a particular variety is not suitable for residential use.

Among the classic coatings that have been used for several decades, we know epoxy floors and floors made of polyurethane. These two varieties are found most often, and they are usually the ones a shining example how opposite the properties of different types of self-leveling polymer coating can be. The epoxy variety is famous for its highest resistance to any damage, both mechanical and chemical.

Even a slightly less shiny and attractive surface does not stop customers, forcing them to purchase such a coating for finishing industrial workshops and enterprises, laboratories, and other similar premises.

The polyurethane version is also amazingly resistant, but is still somewhat inferior in this component, but it looks a little more attractive, and most importantly, it is less likely to be rubbed off by feet. That is why it is actively used in offices and other public institutions with high traffic, and also looks more relevant at home.

Among other varieties it is worth highlighting methyl methacrylate and cement acrylic flooring, which are peculiar new analogues of epoxy and polyurethane. In general, today's self-leveling floors are made from the most unexpected materials. There is even a variety made from urea, which, by the way, is considered easy to install due to the method of application through spraying.

If we talk about reliability, it is usually not recommended to choose a polyester-based floor, since it is with this material that problems with quality and durability arise.

As for appearance, polymer floors are usually made colored with the addition of colored sand. As a result, such a coating can even resemble a wood-polymer floor in appearance, so the problem of fitting such an ultra-modern material into classic designs seems practically solved. Moreover, in some cases, you can also purchase a transparent composition - in this case, creating a base for a coating made of natural wood seems especially appropriate, although more often they are used simply to create the top protective layer of a self-leveling floor.

Thanks to this solution you can get all the best benefits polymer filling with an appearance that uses literally any decorative inserts from the most unexpected materials and components.

Which ones are better?

You should choose a self-leveling floor taking into account the purposes for which it will be used. Since we are generally talking about typical home conditions for our country, in terms of their operational and aesthetic qualities, polyurethane and cement-acrylic mixtures are most suitable for finishing. But polyester floor coverings should be used with great caution - reviews indicate that the quality of such material often leaves much to be desired.

Another thing is that even a private customer for his own needs can order the floor that is considered more oriented towards industrial needs. This need arises in a situation where the question of finishing the floor in the garage is open - there this surface experiences significant mechanical loads due to passing or standing car, and at the same time some aggressive chemical compositions, including oils and much more.

Again, the use of all these substances does not contribute to the creation of ideal cleanliness, so the floor in such a room should be designed for maximum ease of cleaning and minimal contamination, and also have high chemical resistance. Therefore, materials based on epoxy resin or methyl methacrylate.

The base, which is almost always an ordinary concrete or cement screed, does not put forward any special requirements to the type of flooring, but you can start from the appearance of the finished floor. It should be noted that the most commonly used options are those called « liquid linoleum» , since when frozen they really resemble this finishing material.

To be honest, the imitation of any other types of finishing turns out to be very conditional and can hardly be called plausible, so the option with such “linoleum” should inspire the most confidence.

How to choose?

The choice of self-leveling floor components is quite complex, since the materials are numerous and varied. For example, for a concrete base, you should first select a reliable waterproofing material, cement M-200 or higher, and also prepare and lay the mixture itself so that its moisture content does not exceed 4%. In some cases, two-component floors are made, when the base is a wood-polymer composite, which looks very much like ordinary wood, and an ordinary colorless polymer floor is poured on top.

Although home conditions are unlikely to involve the same number of hazards and stresses as in an industrial workshop, a combination of different types of polymer base is usually recommended for residential use. In the hallway, bathroom and kitchen - where there is an increased amount of dust and dirt, increased humidity, and there is also a high probability of spilling caustic or hot liquids, it is recommended to use epoxy compounds.

Very important for residential premises aesthetic appeal, and there are much fewer different strength tests expected here, so here the choice more often falls on decorative polyurethane floors.

At the same time, you should always choose antistatic mixtures containing quartz sand for your home, because the accumulation of small charges of electricity is not conducive to health and also attracts dust.

It must be said that Self-leveling flooring in the interior does not go well with any wall decoration, and this point also needs to be taken into account, because changing a flooded floor covering is very problematic. IN living rooms looks best in combination with polyurethane on the floor decorative putty on the walls. Even the expensive ones will seem normal vinyl wallpapers, but here are the ordinary ones paper wallpaper, will most likely be inappropriate. For the kitchen in combination with epoxy floors either classic tiles or colored plaster are suitable, with which the self-leveling floor will be combined in the same way as laminate, which is often imitated by it.

In some cases, private farm owners prefer to refuse classic materials even for exterior finishing and for the street they use not slabs, but a self-leveling self-leveling floor, which is well suited for pouring garden paths. Here, methyl methacrylate will prove to be the best choice, as it is unpretentious to temperature changes and hardens faster than its colleagues.

Thanks to this unusual solution paths in the garden will always look fresh and clean, their color will delight for a long time. In this case, you can use a small tile as a base.

Required Tools

In practice, pouring a self-leveling floor turns out to be not so complex process. It does not require any special equipment, so more and more men find it necessary to carry out this kind of repair themselves. To complete the task, the master will need:

A large container for preparing the mixture for pouring - usually a volume equal to at least two medium buckets is assumed.
A drill and a special attachment for it, allowing you to mix any liquid mixtures. There is a catch here, since you don’t need any drill, but only one that allows you to regulate the speed, because too active mixing risks splashing the future floor onto the walls. Also, not just any attachment will work – it needs to mix the mass in the container right down to the very bottom.

A set of spatulas adapted for applying the mixture both in the main part and in the most inaccessible places.
A special needle roller, which is used to roll the future floor surface again after application. This is done in order to remove small air bubbles from the mass, which will certainly form during the pouring process. If they are not removed before the mass hardens, this will have an extremely negative impact on the strength and durability of the material and can lead to cracking even with minor mechanical impact.
A chemical solvent needed to remove contaminants left behind by the pouring liquid from used instruments. There is no universal solvent suitable for all types of self-leveling floors, so it must be selected based on the instructions indicated on the can with the self-leveling floor mixture.

Shoes with spiked soles are important part work, since even during the pouring process, repairmen will have to walk on a freshly poured surface, and only a studded sole can reduce the impact on the liquid material.
Most experts also recommend purchasing several pairs of ordinary rubber gloves in advance, which will help protect skin from the influence of all components used in the process.

Preparation

The mixture, which in the future forms the floor, is applied to a previously prepared surface, which is most often concrete. Such a surface requires a minimum level of humidity and ideal horizontality, therefore, when laying a new screed, the process is performed in two steps - a semi-dry mass is applied as the first layer, and only on top of it is a thin leveling layer (within half a centimeter). Only after the floor is well high x, you can proceed to further actions.

Moreover, in some cases you can take the old one as a basis. concrete screed, but then it is first carefully cleaned of dust and any other contaminants, and any visible cracks are carefully sealed using a special epoxy compound.

In this case, by the way, you also cannot do without pouring an additional leveling screed.

Old wooden floors can also be used without dismantling. The first step in this case is to carefully inspect the floor, replace or repair any worn components, and strengthen their fastenings. If the floor has been painted, old paint must be deleted, any unevenness and cracks are filled with a special putty for wood. After the putty has dried, the surface of the old floor is carefully sanded to a state of perfect smoothness, after which the dust is removed from it using an industrial vacuum cleaner, and the same leveling screed is poured on top.

After this, the surface is primed. The primer is selected depending on what type of self-leveling floor is selected - any conscientious manufacturer should indicate on the packaging how to choose the correct primer in this case. The primer is applied in two layers using a fine-pile roller, sometimes an ordinary paint brush. The second coat of primer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

In order to increase the efficiency of priming, it is recommended to add quartz sand to the primer.

Manufacturing technology

You can fill the self-leveling floor with your own hands, but provided that the instructions are carefully studied and will be followed to the last letter.

Filling with polymer occurs on average at a thickness of 1.5-3 millimeters, but this, of course, is only true if the concrete screed was made with high quality and is truly horizontal. Material consumption per 1 m2 is calculated based on the fact that one liter of liquid mass is a square meter of surface covered with a layer of one millimeter. At the same time, the thickness of the layer may vary somewhat, because the liquid flows into any seams and holes, so you need to purchase poured floors with a reserve.

The first step in preparing the mixture is stirring, which must be done as thoroughly as possible until the mass is completely homogeneous. When the finishing composition is ready, application begins - the liquid is simply poured onto the floor and accelerated in all directions using a rule or any other similar tool. Air bubbles will probably form in the filled layer. – they must be removed using a specially prepared needle roller.

At this stage, you can move around the room only with the help of shoes with needle soles - the mass will fill the small holes left by such spikes, but the mark from ordinary shoes would probably remain as a long-lasting memory for the owner of the room.

When the composition begins to visually thicken, its spreading over the surface and rolling with a needle roller is stopped - it is time to aesthetically decorate the coating. Modern design actively uses the installation of any foreign elements into the self-leveling floor, including small pebbles and shells, as well as coins and any other decorative elements that, when hardened, will be firmly “glued” into the material.

Such a prefabricated “pie” allows a person with a creative approach to turn a rather boring floor covering into a real work of art that one will never want to change, which will immediately solve the problem of the difficulty of replacing such a covering.

After the bottom layer of polymer with the decorations protruding from it has completely hardened, a second layer is applied - usually completely transparent. Its task is to cover protruding elements to create smooth surface, so the calculation of the quantity Supplies must also take into account the size of “foreign” decorations. Moving on this layer must be even more careful because it is the immediate surface of the future floor.

Craftsmen, for their own needs, are allowed to move on the hardening outer layer already on the second day after its application, but when the pouring leaves the workers completely satisfied, they need to wait another week until the material has completely hardened. After this, he is ready for all those difficult tests that he was created to withstand.

Publication date: 04/03/2015

Polymer floors have recently become very popular due to the extreme simplicity of their application, excellent decorative look, long service life and amazing resistance to almost all types of impacts and loads.

Leveling the floor

Such a fact as the practical impossibility of independent dismantling can speak in their favor - such a coating will successfully resist almost any kind of action on it.

Therefore, such floors are usually installed either for a very long period of time or with the expectation that later such a coating can become an excellent, perfectly flat base for another type of flooring.

But is installation that easy? What is needed for this?

Let's look at how to apply a polymer self-leveling floor with your own hands using the most simple tools and the prepared mixture, how to make an unusual 3D volumetric floor.

The history of the creation of decorative polymer flooring

Modern self-leveling floors take their history from Italy; this event dates back to 1972. It began with the art of drawing with chalk on asphalt; street artists created incredible 3D images on a variety of subjects.

Such paintings quickly became very popular all over the world, which was taken advantage of by designers who transferred unusual street art to the surface of residential buildings.

It was decided to combine three-dimensional images with high-strength polymer floors used for industry. This is exactly how 3D self-leveling polymer floors were born, which consist of a base base, a pattern and a transparent layer applied on top.

Return to contents

Characteristics of such coating

Pouring a polymer floor

Polymer floors are extremely famous high performance, which makes it possible to use them for premises with a wide variety of purposes: industrial workshops, warehouses, shopping centers, apartments.

Ease of application, excellent appearance, extremely simple maintenance - such coatings are becoming increasingly widespread today, displacing traditional coatings.

Among the main characteristics are:

wear resistance to friction, mechanical loads, and almost any type of impact;
adhesion to the screed, which ensures a long service life; such a coating is almost impossible to remove on your own; it is usually knocked down along with the base;
aesthetic appearance, not subject to the influence of time;
environmental friendliness;
easy to care for, high hygiene;
high fire resistance;
waterproof, antistatic effect;
amazing resistance to direct sunlight, ultraviolet radiation, and temperature changes.

In addition, with the help of self-leveling floors on the surface of the base, you can recreate the structure of wood, artistic modeling, natural stone, with inclusions (glitter, coins, pebbles, shells), creating fancy patterns when mixing mixtures different colors, volumetric 3D floors with drawings, patterns and other decorative elements.

Return to contents

Main types

Polymer self-leveling floors: diagram

Self-leveling polymer floors are very diverse depending on the materials used in the composition and the method of their application.

The most common are:

epoxy, which are characterized by high strength, good elasticity, are used quite often;
polyurethane, such self-leveling coating has a long service life, is very resistant to a wide variety of influences;
self-leveling methyl methacrylate floors are used only for industrial premises, they harden very quickly;
polyester ones are the cheapest, but they cannot guarantee an excellent and high-quality effect;
Urea-based self-leveling bases can be applied by spraying.

In addition, polymer floors are distinguished by the thickness of their application to the surface of the base:

high strength for industrial premises, the thickness of this can be up to six millimeters;
medium thickness, reaching a value of one and a half to three millimeters;
thin for residential apartments, have a thickness of one and a half millimeters;
dedusting polymers, which are a simple thin film applied to a concrete base;
self-leveling paints that give the surface the required shade; the thickness of such a coating is only one-fifth of a millimeter.

Self-leveling floors are also divided into smooth, textured, rough, self-leveling with mineral particles, highly filled with large particles, combined, 3D volumetric, one-component, two-component, three-component.

Return to contents

Application Features

Self-leveling floors in the living room

The technology for applying self-leveling floor covering yourself is simple and does not cause problems.

It includes preparing the base (it can be concrete, wood, ceramic tiles, metal), removing dust, debris, dirt, stains from its surface and then priming.

Then begins the preparation of the mixture for the floor, applying the base layer and pattern for volumetric floors, pouring and varnishing. All this work can be easily done with your own hands in a short time.

Return to contents

Preparing the base and preparing the solution for pouring

When preparing the base with your own hands, it is necessary not only to completely clean the surface and remove the remnants of the old floor covering, but to ensure that there are no cracks, dents or other surface defects or large slopes. To do this, use a horizontal level.

The maximum permissible slope is up to two millimeters, otherwise leveling work must be carried out.

For wooden floors, first remove baseboards, oil stains, and debris. After which the base is dust-free. It is recommended to carry out screed installation work before applying the mixture to ensure leveling.

Do not install self-leveling floors on recently laid wooden bases;
thickness of the layer to fill on wood flooring should not be too thin.

The concrete base is also prepared in a similar way. If the concrete was poured recently, it is necessary to wait at least twenty-one days from the moment of its installation.

Ceramic tiles should first be checked for strength and reliability of fastening individual elements, after which the base is degreased and a primer is applied on top of it.

Metal surfaces are also cleaned and degreased, then traces of scale and corrosion are removed from the surface using a sandblasting machine.

Primer and putty make it possible to mask all surface defects that might remain; cracks are carefully sealed with a gypsum composition with quartz sand. In this case, it is unacceptable to use water-based compounds.

For a simple self-leveling floor, the dry mixture is poured into a large container and thoroughly mixed in the proportions specified by the manufacturer using a construction mixer for three to five minutes.

For multicomponent compositions, the mixing conditions must be strictly observed: often one component is first diluted, and then another is added in certain parts. The mixture must be used within one hour after mixing, otherwise the quality of the floor may deteriorate.

And others wooden materials on a solid base, metal, after applying a special primer.

In this article we will talk about how to make self-leveling polymer floors in an apartment, as well as in a garage.

Types of polymer bases

The synthetic coating used in homes, apartments and offices is based on one of the polymers.

Epoxy resin - together with additional components creates a durable, abrasion- and chemical-resistant coating.

A smooth, elastic floor can withstand any deformation.

Methyl methacrylate floors are created by mixing acrylic resins and hardeners. They are highly resistant to ultraviolet radiation and moisture resistance; with the help of dyes, unique color combinations. The floor hardens in 2 hours, and its service life is up to 40 years. Despite all the positive characteristics, this type of self-leveling floor is rarely used, the reason for this was the high cost and harmful fumes that arise during the pouring process.

Features and Benefits:

Hygienic and easy to care for.
Resistance to mechanical stress.
Seamless filling technology.
Possibility to make polymer floors yourself.
Variety of colors.
Immunity to chemical reagents.
The high hardening speed of the self-leveling floor reduces repair time.
Durability of use.

Preparing the base

The main requirements for preparing the base are correcting defects and cleaning the surface. If there is old coating, it must be completely removed. The entire area of the subfloor is thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust (you should use a vacuum cleaner). After cleaning, existing defects become clearly visible. Existing cracks and cracks are puttied, the protrusions are knocked down. In the best way surface treatment is considered an application grinding machine. If the polymer floor has to be poured onto ceramic tiles, its surface is deprived of smoothness with sandpaper or sandpaper.

It is necessary to measure the horizontal level of the base: if its difference does not exceed 4 mm, then you can start making a polymer floor. If there are significant level fluctuations, the surface will have to be leveled sand-cement screed and postpone further work until it dries.

In the vast majority of cases, poor-quality pouring of a self-leveling floor is caused by a poorly prepared base, which causes peeling.

After the screed has dried, a thorough primer is required, which increases adhesion between the base and the self-leveling floor, and also reduces the absorption of the polymer mixture, and, therefore, the consumption of the expensive composition. It is better to apply the primer in two layers, leaving a break of at least 4 hours between them. The composition is applied with a roller. To prevent the liquid mixture of the self-leveling floor from leaking near the wall, this area is taped with damper tape. Also, wooden slats are installed along the perimeter of the room, which will preserve space for the expansion joint.

Preparation of the solution

To work you will need:

Drill with attachment.
Wide spatula.
Roller with a needle insert on a long handle.
Big bucket.

It's time to prepare the working solution. This process is described in the instructions on the package to obtain excellent result The manufacturer's recommendations should be strictly followed. To create a polymer floor you will need two components, one of which is a hardener. Mixing takes place in a large container. The reaction process generates heat, so it is recommended to lower the mixing container into a container of cold water in advance to slow down the reaction somewhat.

Beginners can mix the composition in a bucket, pouring two components alternately. An attachment with spatulas is selected for the drill, and a low mixer speed is used when working. The mixing process takes about two minutes.

Installation

The floor should be poured at a temperature not lower than +10°C; at a lower temperature, chemical processes will slow down and the polymer will not spread well over the surface of the base. High temperatures will cause the components to cure too quickly and will not allow for a good pour.

During the curing process, the floor should not be exposed to drafts or direct sun rays. The top layer of the polymer coating should not dry before the rest of the mass, otherwise cracks will appear.

The liquid polymer is poured in a corner far from the entrance and is helped to spread over the surface with a wooden leveler. The work is carried out in strips, without stopping, the composition quickly hardens in the container. It’s good to involve an assistant in this process, because it will be difficult for one person without experience to do everything. During the pouring process, the solution is rolled with a needle roller, which removes air bubbles. The work ends at the entrance to the room. You should not walk on fresh composition, otherwise shoe marks will remain.

After the composition has dried (the process, depending on the polymer, takes several hours or days), the wooden planks around the perimeter are removed, and the seams are filled with sealant and covered with plinth. The final layer of the self-leveling floor is a coating of two layers of varnish, it gives the surface shine and smoothness, and also increases wear resistance. Using different types of varnish: matte, clear, glossy or colored, you can achieve the desired effect.

thin-layer polymer paint coatings;
concrete impregnation;
thick-layer polymer coatings with sand.

The most economical option for self-leveling flooring is polyurethane impregnation. This is one of the most reliable types of garage coatings. Externally it resembles varnished concrete. To obtain a more attractive floor covering, color markings can be applied to it.

The first step is to clean the rough surface. If the floor was wooden, then you need to dismantle it along with the logs. By clearing the base of debris and dust, you can evaluate the quality of the subfloor. If there are cracks and chips on it, then this is a bad signal indicating the destruction of the material. All damage to the screed must be repaired.

In some cases, before pouring the self-leveling floor in the garage, you need to make a cement screed. This is advisable if the floor is very broken, there are large differences in height, or if there is no screed as such.

If you do need to make a screed, then pay special attention to the arrangement of waterproofing. In addition, to improve the strength characteristics of the floor in the garage, which is very important in this room, make reinforcement. To do this, you can use galvanized mesh laid in a solution.

After the screed has dried or the existing subfloor has been cleaned, it needs to be primed. For what?

The primer will improve the strength of the base.
This ensures adhesion of the screed to the polymer floor.
Protecting the surface from the appearance/reproduction of microorganisms.

Stick around the perimeter of the garage damper tape, which will serve as a shock-absorbing layer. This is done to the height of pouring the polymer floor.

Now you need to install the beacons/guides. If you have a small garage, then you can use corners, pipes or metal profiles as guides. Place them so that the top edges of the guides are in the same plane. For these purposes, you can use long self-tapping screws. Divide the floor into square/rectangular sections. Screw the screws into the tops of the rectangles/squares. To do this, you first need to drill out the tie and insert it into the dowel holes. The beacon should be raised as needed. Do this with a solution.

Now you should prepare the polymer mixture according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Mix it thoroughly. For this you can use electric drill with a special mixer attachment. It is important that the drill operates at low speeds, otherwise many air bubbles will form in the mixture. And this will negatively affect the quality of the polymer floor.

Pouring the polymer is quick because it dries quickly. That's why best method to complete this work - prepare the mixture based on a rectangle/square, aligned with the markers - fill it and level it.

After pouring is completed, you need to roll the mass with a spiked roller. In this way, air and excess moisture trapped in the polymer will be removed. The self-leveling floor can only be used when it is completely dry. The time it takes depends on the temperature in the garage.

There is no need to artificially dry the floor. When the room warms up, a crust forms on the polymer. In this case, the thickness of the self-leveling floor will remain viscous. As a result, the floor in the garage will simply sag over time under the weight of the car.

The work of installing a polymer floor has many complexities and nuances, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. Training videos will help you follow the technology.

Video

The process of pouring the self-leveling floor can be seen in the video below:

Photo

Recently, polymer floors have become relevant and in demand. Nowadays, construction is the most important sector of the national economy. A special place in the industry has been occupied by work on creating flooring in a particular space. Today, to create a floor, you can use a variety of building materials - wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete screed.

Advantages of polymer self-leveling floor

In recent years, the so-called liquid floor has become increasingly popular. It is also called liquid in another way. Unlike traditional building materials, it has some advantages. Floor polymer poured floors are a covering made of synthetic material. Most often they are used in large shopping centers, garages, exhibition halls, etc.

Polymer cast coatings are often used in production due to their reliability and for a long time services.

Creating such coatings with your own hands is quite simple. It is necessary to consider in more detail how polymer coatings are poured, the main stages of repair, positive and negative sides self-leveling floor. Polymer fillings have a number of advantages, making floors in demand among consumers.

The advantage of polymer flooring is that it is beautiful and practical.

The advantages are as follows:

There are polymer coatings various types(epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this they can withstand the highest temperature conditions, and are also moisture resistant.
Despite the fact that polymer is used, they are clean, safe, and environmentally friendly.
The floors are very easy to clean; they are easy to wash and treat with a cleaning agent.
The polymer coating is resistant to various types of abrasive substances.
Self-leveling coatings can have a glossy or matte surface, so you can choose a design that suits your taste and will match the style direction for your room.
Self-leveling coatings contain a liquid substance that quickly hardens. Thanks to this, the floor dries quickly and adheres to any surface, be it wood or concrete screed. Unlike wood and concrete bases, this coating is created quickly and without much effort.

Thanks to all of the above advantages, more and more people prefer to use coatings when decorating the floors of apartments, private houses, offices, parking lots, etc. In addition, 3D coatings have been developed. They differ from standard coatings in the presence of complex images, which not any home craftsman can do on his own.

Preparatory work for self-leveling coatings

The difficulty in creating poured coatings is that they require a perfectly flat base. In the event that the basis is tiles, some roughening will need to be done. This can be done using sandpaper or sandpaper.

Problems may often arise when leveling the base if it is made of wood. To do this, it is primarily necessary to remove all uneven places, carefully sealing them.

The unevenness of the base of the floor surface can be clearly demonstrated when the joists are dismantled and the old covering is removed. However, a height difference is allowed, and it is 4 mm. If possible, it is better to use a concrete screed. If this is not done, then uneven places and defects can be removed using a special grinding machine or a sharpening stone.

You can install a polymer floor either independently or with the help of qualified specialists.

In order to determine the evenness of the surface, experts advise using:

Water level;
Building level;
Other measuring device.

It will also be helpful to thoroughly prime the surface. The primer increases the moisture resistance of the surface and increases the adhesion of the poured floor to the base. After the base is well prepared, along the perimeter indoor space you need to nail down special slats like a plinth. This is necessary so that the liquid pouring polymer does not spread into the existing spaces. floor surface and walls of emptiness. The slats are attached to self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is made of wood) or dowels (if the wall is made of concrete).

Polymer self-leveling floors: mixture preparation technology

In order to make a PUR floor yourself, you should carefully prepare the working liquid composition. You can purchase the polymer mixture at any specialized store. After this, it needs to be diluted according to the instructions and technology.

This is one of the most important steps of the entire repair, since the result largely depends on the quality of the liquid composition repair work.

You need to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions that came with the purchased product. The mixing process plays a vital role. This must be done slowly, carefully, so that not a single lump remains. In addition, absolutely all air bubbles must be removed from the solution. Mixing can be done using a special construction mixer or other suitable means. The next important step is pouring the composition. The liquid mixture should be applied to the floor base from the area of the room furthest from the doors and carefully move towards the doors. Correct thickness The floor layer should be approximately 4 mm.

Before proceeding with the installation of a polymer floor, it is necessary to correctly select and prepare a special mixture for pouring

If the layer is thinner, it will look like this:

Not durable;
Unreliable;
Not durable.

A very thin layer can only be poured onto a finished base as an addition. It is best to pour the mixture together. One home craftsman holds a bucket of polymer composition and carefully pours it onto the floor, while the second levels the surface. You can use a wood strip for leveling. After the polymer poured floor has dried thoroughly, you can begin to apply varnish. Varnish is necessary to ensure that the finished coating is aesthetically pleasing, shiny, and more protected. In addition, varnish increases the wear resistance of the material and makes it smoother. The time it takes for the polymer to dry is approximately 30 minutes. But it is better to do everything in accordance with the instructions on the packaging of the material. The varnish is applied only to an already hardened surface. The coating should be applied in 3 or even 4 layers. It is not possible to walk on a newly flooded floor immediately. To avoid marks and defects, it is better to step on the finished floor after a day.

DIY tools and materials for polymer flooring

In order to make a PUR floor based on a polymer composition, you should have a whole arsenal of tools and building materials available. The set must consist of certain items and materials.

You should prepare the necessary materials and tools in advance so as not to be distracted during the work process.

Namely:

Water or building level;
A rake for leveling the polymer solution when pouring it;
Brush;
Putty knife;
Primer;
Mortar, if a concrete screed will be installed;
Container for polymer composition;
Mixer.

In addition, wooden slats should be prepared to fencing the room around the perimeter for 3D poured coating. In this case, the most important detail will be the film with a pattern or coloring composition. In order to give the flooring aesthetics, you will need to coat the surface with varnish.

Types of polymer floors (video)

As a result, one thing can be noted that the poured polymer floor is an innovative design solution for carrying out repair work in a cottage or apartment building. This technology has found wide application in production.