Do-it-yourself water tanks in the garden. Storage tanks for water. We make a thermal battery ourselves

There are two ways to solve problems with a shower water storage tank: buy ready-made products in the store or make them yourself. The second option is much preferable for several reasons:

It is possible to choose the volume of the container according to your own needs. Depending on the design of the shower and the number of family members, you can install a container with a different volume;
if desired, you can install additional automation systems. If you have minimal experience in performing plumbing work without big problems, you can automatically fill the tank, take water only from the top warmest layer, electric heating etc.;
low cost. All structural elements can be used, you do not need to buy anything. If you have to go to the store, then only for cheap additional elements;
enjoyment of doing your own work. This is an important factor, in many cases outweighs all others.

The article will give detailed step-by-step instructions for making several options for shower tanks, each has both strengths and weaknesses.

The shower tank can be metal from galvanized sheet steel, stainless steel or carbon (black) iron and plastic. In order to consciously choose the best options, you should familiarize yourself with a real comparative table of manufacturing materials.

Production material	Advantages	Flaws
	Almost unlimited service life. But it is unlikely that this advantage is critical for shower buildings in suburban areas.	Technological complexity of manufacturing. Wanted professional tools Ability to weld stainless steel. Another very unpleasant drawback is the high price.
	Service life up to fifty years. The lightness of the tank, the ability to install even on fragile supporting structures.	The complexity of manufacturing, you need to have special tools and skills for soldering. They are in the middle in terms of value.
	For most cases best option both in price and performance.	They require periodic cleaning of the inner surface, on the outer surfaces the paint layer should be restored.
	They are cheap, there are no problems with finding containers.	They are afraid of negative temperatures and hard ultraviolet radiation.
	The service life is several decades.	Not all users are satisfied with the price.

Experienced practitioners advise making a shower tank from used plastic or metal containers. Such containers are easy to find, in most cases you will not have to pay anything.

Up to 40 liters is enough for one washing person, depending on the number of family members, you can calculate optimal dimensions. For information, it is worth saying that industrial companies during the manufacture of shower tanks proceed from the calculation of approximately 20 liters per person, 40 liters allows not only to take a shower, but also to fully wash without the need to save water.

plastic barrels

A very common option for manufacturing a tank for a shower stall, they are distinguished by good indicators of physical strength. It is allowed to use both new and used ones. The volume can be different, from 50 to 1000 liters. For a shower, there is no need to use large containers, it is enough to have a volume in the range of 50–200 liters.

For all plastic containers there are two general requirements:

Production material - UV-resistant plastic. Finding such containers is quite difficult, and they are not cheap;
should have a dark color, and preferably black. Plastic must be painted with mineral paints during the preparation of polyethylene for pressing. Most plastic barrels are blue or white color. Why is it recommended to have containers made from painted plastic? Because the paint on the surface of the plastic will not last long, within one summer they will fall off. The reason is not only the low coefficient of adhesion, but also the high values of thermal expansion. And all dyes react negatively to changes in the linear dimensions of the painted surface.

Step by step instructions for making a plastic tank

If you have an old plastic barrel, then you need to wash it thoroughly. The container can be considered clean only when various odors have completely disappeared. For installation in a vertical position, a frame and a base should be made, the stop is located over the entire bottom area. To reduce wind loads, it is better to lay the barrel on its side, but then there are problems with sealing the lid.

How to seal the lid

Step 1. Thoroughly rinse the junctions of the lid with the barrel, remove oily stains, dust and dirt.

Step 2 Try on the cover, check whether it fits snugly around the entire circumference. Align the cover if necessary. To do this, heat the deformed places with a building hair dryer, place the lid in its place on the barrel and press firmly. In this position, the lid is held until it cools completely. Wear gloves and follow safety precautions.

Step 3 Re-degrease the surfaces and gently lubricate special glue. If you have a machine for welding plastics - excellent, such a seam has a strength of at least 90% of the strength of the base material. If there is no device, use glue.

Step 4 Wait until the adhesive is completely dry. The time depends on the brand of glue and drying conditions.

Step 5 Re-apply the glue where the lid fits on the barrel and let it dry again. Don't rush, don't skip.

Step 6 To increase the strength of the joint, lubricate the joint again and wrap it tightly with clean plastic wrap. Pull the film on top with a soft wire.

Instead of a wire, it is permissible to use a clamp

If you have little experience in such work, then do not rush to install the barrel on the shower stall, first check it for strength and tightness. Everything is fine - cut a small hole in the upper part, connect fittings and a shower head. Leaks were found and they cannot be eliminated - place the barrel in an upright position.

How to tie into plastic barrels

Not as simple a question as it might seem. The fact is that it is near the insert that points of increased tension of the material are formed, with the passage of time microcracks appear, which increase up to complete destruction. As a result, you have to completely change the barrel, it is very difficult to repair such leaks. And after the repair, no one can guarantee that problems will not appear again in the same place or next to it in a few weeks.

For a quality tie-in, you will need a drill with a set of drills of the appropriate diameters, rubber gaskets, bolts and metal plates. The insert is made not only under the shower head, but also for supplying water and draining excess.

Practical advice. Use silicone hose for all connections. It is not afraid of frost, resistant to UV rays and, which is very important for plastic barrels, soft and does not create additional stress on the joint.

Step 1. Buy tie-ins for the tank. They consist of washers, rubber seals, a fitting and a nut.

The number of tie-ins depends on the number of pipelines connected to the drum, and the diameter is selected taking into account the nominal size of the hose. Additionally, you will need a faucet coupling, a faucet, a shower head, a float from an old cistern. If you plan to install additional automation fittings, then at the same time buy elements for fixing it to a plastic barrel. It is advisable to use quick couplers to connect / disconnect the hose, they greatly facilitate the process of caring for the tank for country shower.

Step 2 Prepare two metal plates for each cut-in, approximately 5 × 10 cm in size, at least one millimeter thick. It is due to them that the platform will expand significantly, perceiving static loads from the connected plumbing fixtures and dynamic forces that occur during the on / off of the shower head or the shutoff valves of the water supply. Be sure to remove the sharp corners on all sides of the plates with a circular grinding machine.

Step 3 In the center of the plate, drill a hole for the tie-in, for two plates you will need two holes, grind sharp corners and burrs after the drill.

Step 4 Drill a hole in the barrel, the location must meet the requirements for the placement of the tie-in and its specific purpose. It is quite difficult to drill a hole in a round plastic barrel, the drill constantly “runs away”, especially with a large diameter.

Practical advice. Drilling holes will become much easier if you use simple recommendations.

Clamp a small carnation in the pliers and heat it with a lighter until a red glow appears.
Without allowing time for the metal to cool down, very quickly, in a pre-marked place, melt a small hole in a plastic barrel with a hot nail, it can also be blind.
Take a drill with a diameter of about 2 mm, drill through hole. The mark made will hold the drill in the desired position. This will be the center, then you can continue to work with a large diameter drill.

Step 5 sandpaper remove all burrs around the perimeter of the hole, they should not interfere with the hermetic installation of metal strips.

Step 6 Bend the metal plates along the radius of the barrel. Use for this any improvised devices. There is nothing to worry about if you fail to bend the plate perfectly, but it is desirable to strive for such a result. The more accurately the radii match, the more area contact, the less the load per unit area, the more efficient the device.

Step 6 To fully guarantee the elimination of leaks, lubricate the surface of the plates with any glue or sealant, you can do the same operations with tie-ins.

Step 7 Install all the elements in place, the metal plates should be on both sides of the container. You will need an assistant to fix the nut, it is difficult to do this alone. But it all depends on the size of the container. Remember that standard tie-downs have left-hand threaded nuts, screw them counterclockwise.

Constantly control the position of the plates, do not allow them to rotate and change the original correct position.

According to the same algorithm, holes for all tie-ins are strengthened. Do not be lazy to make reinforcement, it greatly increases the operating time of the country shower tank. Next, a tap, hose, quick connector or other equipment for the tank is fixed to the thread.

Video - Installing a drain on a plastic barrel

Metal shower tank

We will not consider rather "exotic", in our opinion, options for the manufacture of stainless steel tanks. Let's dwell on the two most successful ones - from a finished barrel or welded from sheet steel of ordinary quality.

1. Metal tank from a finished barrel

First, we should talk about the types of barrels, their advantages and disadvantages.

Barrel type	Advantages	Flaws
	Low price and availability. Currently, such containers are used to store most liquid and bulk products; you can always buy them in a store or find a used one. They are light in weight, easy to mount on simplified frames.	Difficulties arise with fastening tie-ins and plumbing fittings, the service life rarely exceeds ten years.
	Mesh thickness up to 1 mm, which allows you to securely fix additional elements tank. Service life of fifty or more years.	At present, it is difficult to find thick-walled barrels; at cost, they are much superior to thin-walled ones. Slightly more weight, volume of at least 200 liters. Such operational parameters can narrow the areas of possible use.

Making a tank from a metal barrel

A hole is made in the bottom of the barrel for a shower head. If the barrel is thin-walled, then it is recommended to install metal plates to strengthen the junction. How this is done is described above using a plastic barrel as an example. To supply water, a hole should be made in the upper part of the tank. During the manufacture of the frame for the tank, be sure to take into account the weight of the filled container, the fixation must be reliable and safe.

2. Production of a tank from sheet steel

The best option for many cases, has a number of advantages.

Possibility of manufacturing a tank of any capacity. This makes it possible to take into account the needs of users as much as possible.
The shower tank can simultaneously serve as its roof. To do this, the dimensions in length and width must correspond to the parameters of the shower, the frame of the building simultaneously serves as a frame for the tank. In the step-by-step manufacturing instructions, we will consider just such an option.
It is allowed to install all systems for filling automation and additional artificial water heating on the tank.

Step by step instructions for making a metal tank

For manufacturing, you need to prepare sheet iron with a thickness of about 1 mm, the dimensions of the sheets depend on the length and width of the shower cabin. For most cases, 1.2 m × 1.2 m is sufficient.

Step 1. Draw a sketch of the blanks and calculate the volume of the tank. For example, we will take a volume of 100 liters. With a length of 1.2 m and a width of 1.2 m, the height should be: H = 100000 cm3 (100 liters): (120 cm × 120 cm) = 6.9 cm. 120cm×120cm for top and bottom. And four plates measuring 120 cm × 7 cm for the sidewalls.

Step 2 Transfer sketches of blanks to metal. Clean its surface from rust and dirt, accurately draw the outline of the workpiece. Dimensions need to be transferred only for one sidewall and top, these elements will later be used as templates for the rest.

Step 3 Using a circular grinder with a metal cutting disc, cut the blanks. Check that the dimensions are exactly the same.

Important. When working with a grinder, follow the safety rules. In terms of injury risk, this tool occupies the first position. The disk must rotate on the operator, this is extremely important. Beginners try to change the direction of rotation, they do not like that sparks fly towards the worker. This is very dangerous, in this position the angle grinder can be pulled out, the injuries from it are complex and severe.

Step 4. Trim the cut points, try to achieve the most even line. Gaps of no more than two millimeters are allowed. Try to pre-fold all the elements and check their quality.

Step 5. start welding individual elements. Adjust the amperage of the welding machine and the diameter of the electrode. The metal should not burn out, this condition significantly reduces the strength of the seam. In addition, a strong current burns through thin sheets, making it difficult and time-consuming to seal holes. Keep in mind that the weld "pulls" during cooling, the value of the angles changes. To avoid mistakes, first grab two elements in several places and let them cool. After that, check the corners with a square and, if deviations are found, correct them. Only after such preparation can a continuous seam be applied.

Step 6. Beat the flux along the entire length of the seam, check its integrity. There are gaps - put a second seam. If the experience of welding is not enough, then professionals recommend that seams be applied from the inside and outside at the bottom of the shower tank. The cover is welded only from the outside.

Step 7 Mark the connection points for the water inlet and the shower head. Drill holes, taking into account the diameters, clean the burrs with a grinder. We do not recommend that you weld in threaded fittings; it is much easier to purchase special tie-ins in stores. They have a set of washers and rubber gaskets, quickly installed in place, do not require special knowledge. Welding adapters is quite difficult, beginners will definitely have leaks.

Step 8 Re-clean all welds from flux, pour water into the tank and check the tightness of the tank. No leaks - pour out water, clean surfaces and paint external walls. The paint, of course, must be black for exterior work as well.

The finished shower tank can be mounted above the shower cabin. If you have a desire to make it from stainless steel, then the technology is almost the same. Except for changing welding modes and brands of electrodes.

You can find options for making a shower tank from galvanized sheet steel. We do not consider this option successful for several reasons:

very thin walls require additional special measures to strengthen them;
Zinc has poor adhesion to most coatings and will peel off quickly. And it is not economically feasible to use special expensive paints;
for the manufacture of the tank, the elements used at the joints are bent, and then sealed. This is a very long time, you need to have or specially make bending devices;
without solid experience in soldering galvanized sheet metal hope for a positive result of their work is not worth it.

How can you improve the tanks for a country shower

Each owner of a summer cottage, taking into account their needs and capabilities, can independently improve the tank, install the simplest mechanisms that allow not only to increase the comfort of water procedures, but also reduce the time spent on its maintenance and preparation. We will not touch on complex automation, we will consider only the most "budget" options. Although they are low-cost, they are in no way inferior to expensive analogues of industrial production in terms of efficiency, safety and durability of use.

Water temperature

For those who already use the simplest shower in their summer cottage, it is no secret that the water temperature changes during washing. Sometimes the temperature difference can cause significant discomfort. It is impossible to completely eliminate this phenomenon, but there are several ways to minimize the drop and increase the temperature of the water in the tank? For now, we will not consider factors that depend on the location and color of the surface, but will focus on purely technical solutions.

Make a water intake from the top of the tank. The easiest way, but very effective. To do this, attach a flexible hose Ø 15–20 mm to the inlet of the shower head. The main thing is not the size, but flexibility, the hose can be made of various materials, the wall thickness does not matter. In the shower, water moves by gravity, there is no increased pressure, on the contrary, it is somewhat lower than in the tank due to physical phenomena that occur during the movement of the liquid. The length of the hose to be connected should be approximately 20–25 cm longer than the maximum height of the drum. Specific values are determined taking into account the characteristics of the hose. The main requirement is that it should not completely bend during operation and not disturb the speed of the water flow. The upper end of the hose is fixed to any float (it is better to take a piece of foam) from below. As the barrel fills or empties, the float will move up/down, and the intake end of the hose always takes water from the warmest top layer.
Install a simple electric heater. Now in the implementation there is a huge number of devices that differ in power, price and method of fixation. Choose for yourself the most optimal, taking into account the maximum number of different factors. You can not focus on power. In addition to additional heating of water, the heater will perform another task - to constantly mix it in the tank. Mount it at the very bottom, warm water will rise up, and cold water will sink down. Due to continuous mixing, the temperature of the water in the entire volume will become the same. If desired, you can additionally install a temperature or time sensor, but this is already quite complicated work. Yes, and the presence of conductive elements in the water tank has Negative influence shower safety.

Tank filling

There are two most commonly used methods of filling the cistern: manually with a bucket or with a faucet. Both methods are often used and have the right to life, but we advise you to make the third option, which in our opinion is very successful. In addition, almost no additional costs will be required, and all the work will take no more than an hour.

Step 1. Prepare the details. You will need a hose and an ordinary float mechanism from the toilet cistern. As a rule, they very rarely fail, such elements can be found and used for the tank during the replacement of plumbing equipment. If there are no old ones, buy it in a specialized store, the price of devices is quite affordable for all consumers.

Step 2 Drill a hole in the container, do not forget to install additional plates to strengthen the insertion point.

Step 3 Install the float, use sealants to prevent leaks.

Important. If for all the cases described above, small leaks are considered an unpleasant phenomenon, but not critical, then the connections with the float must be tight. Otherwise, a large amount of leaked water can cause very unpleasant consequences.

Step 4 Adjust the position of the float so that the barrel is always filled to the desired volume. If you wish, you can make a drain insurance hole, insert a tube into it and lead it to a safe place. The tube will make it possible to notice the malfunction of the float in time and minimize the consequences of the “flood”. But you can not do this, the shower in the country is not the right place to take special care of leaks, the main thing is that not all the water leaves. Of course, during a long absence, you must not forget to completely turn off the water supply.

Thermally insulated Summer shower with heating, sensors and pump

country souls

The option of a shower tank should always be considered before construction begins, and not vice versa. If you have a temporary shower, then you should not spend a lot of effort and money on making a tank. You can find options for using fuel tanks for these purposes from cars and trucks, large canisters, milk cans, etc. Professionals recommend paying attention to efficiency and, of course, the design look of the shower. The tank should not be conspicuous, but perform its tasks "imperceptibly".

And the last. In everything you need to observe the optimal ratio of cost and quality. You have a stationary shower that you plan to use on cool autumn days - think not only about electric heating of the water in the tank, but also about thermal insulation. It must be removable and installed only in cases where sun rays is no longer enough to heat the water to the desired temperature. Best to apply foam boards, they are quickly installed and removed, can be used for several seasons. The price suits all consumers.

Video - Do-it-yourself shower tank

Often, homeowners are not able to buy modern heating equipment, so they are looking for alternative solutions. Take at least a buffer tank (otherwise - a heat accumulator), an indispensable thing for heating systems with a solid fuel boiler. A storage tank with a volume of 500 liters costs about 600-700 USD. That is, the price of a thousand-liter barrel reaches 1000 USD. e. If you make a heat accumulator with your own hands, and then install the tank in the boiler room yourself, you will be able to save half the indicated amount. Our task is to tell about the manufacturing methods.

Where is the heat accumulator used and how is it arranged

The thermal energy storage is nothing more than an insulated iron tank with branch pipes for connecting water heating mains. The buffer tank performs 2 functions: it accumulates excess heat and heats the house during periods when the boiler is inactive. The heat accumulator replaces the heating unit in 2 cases:

When heating a dwelling or a boiler that burns solid fuel. The storage tank works for heating at night, after burning firewood or coal. Thanks to this, the homeowner rests calmly, and does not run to the boiler room. It is comfortable.
When the source of heat is an electric boiler, and electricity consumption is accounted for by a multi-tariff meter. Energy at the night rate is half the price, so during the day the operation of the heating system is fully provided by the heat accumulator. It's economical.

On the left in the photo - a buffer tank of 400 liters from Drazice, on the right - a Kospel electric boiler complete with a hot water storage tank

An important point. Tank - hot water accumulator increases the efficiency of a solid fuel boiler. After all, the maximum efficiency of the heat generator is achieved with intense combustion, which cannot be constantly maintained without a buffer tank that absorbs excess heat. The more efficiently firewood is burned, the less their consumption. This also applies to a gas boiler, whose efficiency decreases in low combustion modes.

The storage tank filled with coolant operates according to simple principle. While the heat generator is engaged in space heating, the water in the tank is heated to a maximum temperature of 80-90 ° C (the heat accumulator is charging). After the boiler is turned off, hot coolant is supplied to the radiators from the storage tank, which provides heating for the house for a certain time (the heat battery is discharged). The duration of operation depends on the volume of the tank and the air temperature outside.

How does a factory-made heat accumulator work?

The simplest prefabricated water storage tank shown in the diagram consists of the following elements:

the main tank is cylindrical, made of carbon or stainless steel;
heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 50-100 mm, depending on the insulation used;
outer skin - thin painted metal or polymer case;
connecting fittings embedded in the main tank;
immersion sleeves for mounting a thermometer and pressure gauge.

Note. More expensive models of heat accumulators for heating systems are additionally supplied with coils for hot water supply and heating from solar collectors. Another useful option is a block of electric heating elements built into the upper zone of the tank.

Production of heat accumulators in the factory

If you are seriously concerned about installing a heat accumulator and decide to make it on your own, then first you should familiarize yourself with the factory assembly technology.

Cutting blanks for the lid and bottom on a plasma machine

Repeat technological process in a home workshop is unrealistic, but some tricks will come in handy. At the enterprise, the hot water storage tank is made in the form of a cylinder with a hemispherical bottom and a lid in the following order:

Sheet metal 3 mm thick is fed to the plasma cutting machine, where it is used to produce blanks for end caps, body, hatch and stand.
On the lathe main fittings with a diameter of 40 or 50 mm (thread 1.5 and 2”) and immersion sleeves for control devices are manufactured. A large flange for an inspection hatch about 20 cm in size is also machined there. A branch pipe is welded to the latter for inserting into the body.
The blank body (the so-called shell) in the form of a sheet with holes for fittings is sent to the rollers, bending it under a certain radius. To get a cylindrical water tank, it remains only to weld the ends of the workpiece end-to-end.
From metal flat circles, a hydraulic press stamps hemispherical caps.
The next operation is welding. The order is as follows: first, the body is boiled on the tacks, then the covers are tacked to it, then all the seams are completely welded. At the end, fittings and an inspection hatch are attached.
The finished storage tank is welded to the stand, after which it passes 2 permeability tests - air and hydraulic. The latter is produced with a pressure of 8 bar, the test lasts 24 hours.
The tested tank is painted and insulated with basalt fiber at least 50 mm thick. From above, the container is sheathed with thin-sheet steel with a polymeric color coating or closed with a tight cover.

The body of the drive is bent from a sheet of iron on rollers

Reference. To insulate the tank, manufacturers use different materials. For example, heat accumulators "Prometheus" Russian production insulated with polyurethane foam.

Instead of cladding, manufacturers often use a special cover (you can choose a color)

Most factory-made heat accumulators are designed for a maximum pressure of 6 bar at a coolant temperature in the heating system of 90 °C. This value is twice the threshold of the safety valve installed on the safety group of solid fuel and gas boilers (limit - 3 bar). The production process is shown in detail in the video:

We make a thermal battery ourselves

You have decided that you cannot do without a buffer tank and want to make it yourself. Then get ready to go through 5 stages:

Calculation of the volume of the heat accumulator.
Choosing the right design.
Selection and preparation of materials.
Assembly and leak test.
Installation of the tank and connection to the water heating system.

Advice. Before calculating the volume of the barrel, think about how much space in the boiler room you can allocate for it (in terms of area and height). Clearly determine how long the water heat accumulator should replace the inactive boiler, and only then proceed with the first stage.

How to calculate tank volume

There are 2 ways to calculate the storage tank capacity:

simplified, offered by manufacturers;
accurate, performed according to the formula for the heat capacity of water.

The duration of heating a house with a heat accumulator depends on its size.

The essence of the enlarged calculation is simple: for each kW of power of the boiler plant, a volume equal to 25 liters of water is allocated in the tank. Example: if the capacity of the heat generator is 25 kW, then the minimum capacity of the heat storage will be 25 x 25 = 625 l or 0.625 m³. Now remember how much space is allocated in the boiler room and adjust the resulting volume to the actual size of the room.

Reference. Those who want to weld a homemade heat accumulator often wonder how to calculate the volume of a round barrel. Here it is worth recalling the formula for calculating the area of a circle: S = ¼πD². Substitute the diameter of the cylindrical tank (D) into it, and multiply the result by the height of the tank.

You will get more accurate dimensions of the heat accumulator if you use the second method. After all, a simplified calculation will not show how long the calculated amount of coolant will last under the most unfavorable weather conditions. The proposed methodology just dances from the indicators that you need and is based on the formula:

m = Q / 1.163 x Δt

Q is the amount of heat that needs to be stored in the battery, kWh;
m is the calculated mass of the coolant in the tank, tons;
Δt is the difference in water temperatures at the beginning and at the end of heating;
1.163 Wh/kg °C is the reference heat capacity of water.

Let's explain further with an example. Let's take standard house 100 m² with an average heat demand of 10 kW, where the boiler must be idle for 10 hours a day. Then it is necessary to accumulate 10 x 10 = 100 kWh of energy in the barrel. The initial water temperature in the heating network is 20 °C, heating occurs up to 90 °C. We consider the mass of the coolant:

m = 100 / 1.163 x (90 - 20) = 1.22 tons, which is approximately equal to 1.25m³.

Please note that the heat load of 10 kW is taken approximately; in an insulated building with an area of 100 m², heat loss will be less. The second moment: so much heat is needed on the coldest days, which are 5 for the whole winter. That is, a heat accumulator for 1000 liters is enough with a large margin, and taking into account the seasonal temperature difference, you can safely keep within 750 liters.

Hence the conclusion: in the formula you need to substitute the average heat consumption for the cold period, equal to half of the maximum:

m = 50 / 1.163 x (90 - 20) = 0.61 tons or 0.65 m³.

Note. If you calculate the volume of the barrel according to the average heat consumption, in severe frosts it will not be enough for the estimated period of time (in our example, 10 hours). But save money and space in the furnace room. More information on conducting calculations is presented in.

About tank design

In order to make a heat accumulator yourself, you will have to defeat one insidious enemy - the pressure exerted by the liquid on the walls of the vessel. Do you wonder why factory tanks are made cylindrical, and the bottom with a lid is hemispherical? Yes, because such a container is able to withstand the pressure of hot water without additional reinforcement.

On the other hand, few people have the technical ability to mold metal on rollers, not to mention the drawing of semicircular parts. We offer the following solutions to the issue:

Order a round inner tank at a metalworking company, and carry out the insulation and final installation work yourself. It will still cost less than buying a factory-assembled heat accumulator.
Take a ready-made cylindrical tank and make a buffer tank on its base. Where to get such tanks, we will tell you in the next section.
Weld a rectangular heat accumulator from sheet iron and reinforce its walls.

Sectional drawing of a rectangular heat accumulator with a volume of 500 l

Advice. AT closed system heating with a solid fuel boiler, where overpressure can jump up to 3 bar and above, it is strongly recommended to use a cylindrical heat storage.

In an open heating system with zero water pressure, a rectangular tank can be used. But do not forget about the hydrostatic pressure of the coolant on the walls, add to it the height of the water column from the tank to the expansion tank installed in highest point. That is why it is necessary to strengthen the flat walls of a home-made heat accumulator, as shown in the drawing of a 500-liter tank.

A rectangular storage tank, properly reinforced, can also be used in a closed heating system. But in case of an emergency pressure surge due to overheating of the TT boiler, the tank will leak with a probability of 90%, although you may not notice a small crack under the insulation layer. How the non-reinforced metal of the vessel sticks out when filled with water, look at the video:

Reference. It makes no sense to weld directly onto the stiffening walls from corners, channels and other rolled metal. Practice shows that the pressure force bends corners of a small section together with the wall, and tears off large ones along the edges.

Making a powerful frame outside is impractical, too much material consumption. A compromise option is the internal spacers shown on the drawing of a home-made heat accumulator.

Drawing of a heat accumulator for 500 l - top view (cross section)

Selection of materials for the tank

You will greatly facilitate your task if you find a ready-made cylindrical tank, originally designed for a pressure of 3–6 bar. What containers can be used:

propane cylinders of various capacities;
decommissioned process tanks, for example, receivers from industrial compressors;
receivers from railway cars;
old iron boilers;
internal tanks for storage of liquid nitrogen, made of stainless steel.

It is much easier to make a reliable heat accumulator from ready-made steel vessels

Note. In extreme cases, a steel pipe of a suitable diameter will do. Flat covers can be welded to it, which will have to be reinforced with internal stretch marks.

To weld a square tank, take sheet metal 3 mm thick, no more. Rigidity make from round pipesØ15-20 mm or profiles 20 x 20 mm. Choose the size of the fittings according to the diameter of the boiler outlet pipes, and for lining, buy thin steel (0.3-0.5 mm) with powder coating.

A separate question is how to insulate a heat accumulator welded with your own hands. The best option - basalt wool in rolls with a density of up to 60 kg/m³ and a thickness of 60-80 mm. Polymers such as polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam should not be used. The reason is that mice that love warmth and in the fall can easily settle under the lining of your storage tank. Unlike polymeric heaters, they do not gnaw basalt fiber.

Be under no illusions about extruded polystyrene foam, rodents eat it too

Now let's look at other options. finished vessels, which are not recommended for heat accumulators:

An impromptu tank from the eurocube. Such plastic containers are designed for a maximum temperature of the contents of 70 ° C, and we need 90 ° C.
Heat accumulator from an iron barrel. Contraindications - thin metal and flat tank covers. Than to strengthen such a barrel, it is easier to take a good steel pipe.

Assembly of a rectangular heat accumulator

We want to warn you right away: if you are mediocre in welding, then it is better to order the manufacture of the tank on the side according to your drawings. The quality and tightness of the seams is of great importance; at the slightest leak, the storage tank will leak.

First, the tank is assembled on tacks, and then boiled with a continuous seam

For a good welder, there will be no problems here, you just need to learn the order of operations:

Cut blanks from metal to size and weld the body without a bottom and a lid on tacks. To fix the sheets, use clamps and a square.
Cut holes in the side walls for stiffeners. Insert the prepared pipes inside and scald their ends from the outside.
Grab the bottom with a lid to the tank. Cut holes in them and repeat the operation with the installation of internal stretch marks.
When all opposite walls of the container are securely connected to each other, begin continuous welding of all seams.
Install supports from pipe sections at the bottom of the tank.
Insert the fittings, stepping back from the bottom and cover by less than 10 cm, as shown in the photo below.
Weld metal brackets to the walls, which will serve as brackets for fastening the heat-insulating material and sheathing.

The photo shows a stretch from a wide strip, but it is better to use a pipe

Advice on mounting internal spacers. In order for the walls of the heat accumulator to effectively resist bending and not break off by welding, extend the ends of the braces outward by 50 mm. Then additionally weld stiffeners to them from a steel sheet or strip. Do not worry about the appearance, the ends of the pipes will then hide under the cladding.

Steel brackets (clips) are welded to the body for fixing insulation and cladding

A few words about how to insulate the heat accumulator. First, check it for leaks by filling it with water or smearing all the seams with kerosene. Thermal insulation is quite simple:

clean and degrease all surfaces, apply a primer and paint to them in order to protect against corrosion;
wrap the tank with insulation without squeezing it, and then secure it with a cord;
cut the facing metal, make holes in it for the pipes;
fasten the casing to the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Screw the cladding sheets so that they are interconnected with fasteners. This completes the manufacture of a home-made heat accumulator for an open heating system.

Installation and connection of the tank to heating

If the volume of your heat accumulator exceeds 500 liters, then it is undesirable to put it on a concrete floor, it is better to arrange a separate foundation. To do this, dismantle the screed and dig a hole to a dense layer of soil. Then fill it with broken stone (but), compact and fill with liquid clay. From above, pour a reinforced concrete slab 150 mm thick in a wooden formwork.

Scheme of the foundation device for the battery tank

The correct operation of the heat accumulator is based on the horizontal movement of hot and cooled flow inside the tank when the battery is "charged", and the vertical flow of water during the "discharge". To organize such battery operation, you need to perform the following activities:

the circuit of a solid fuel or other boiler is connected to a water storage tank through a circulation pump;
the heating system is supplied with a coolant using a separate pump and a mixing unit with a three-way valve that allows you to take the required amount of water from the battery;
the pump installed in the boiler circuit should not be inferior in performance to the unit supplying the coolant to the heating appliances.

Tank piping scheme - heat accumulator

The standard connection diagram for a heat storage tank with a TT boiler is shown in the figure above. balancing valve on the return line is used to regulate the flow of the coolant according to the temperature of the water at the inlet and outlet of the tank. Our expert Vladimir Sukhorukov will tell you how to properly strap and set up in his video:

Reference. If you live in the capital of the Russian Federation or the Moscow region, then on the issue of connecting any heat accumulators, you can consult personally with Vladimir using the contact details on his official website.

Budget accumulating tank from cylinders

For those homeowners who have a very limited boiler room area, we suggest making a cylindrical heat accumulator from propane cylinders.

Homemade heat storage paired with a TT boiler

The 100 l design, developed by our other master -, is designed to perform 3 functions:

unload the solid fuel boiler in case of overheating, absorbing excess heat;
heat water for household needs;
provide heating of the house for 1-2 hours in case of attenuation of the TT-boiler.

Note. Duration battery life the heat accumulator is small due to the small volume. But it will fit in any furnace room and will be able to remove heat from the boiler after a power outage, since it is connected directly, without a pump.

It looks like an unlined tank made of cylinders

To assemble the storage tank you will need:

2 standard propane tanks;
at least 10 m of copper tube Ø12 mm or stainless corrugations the same diameter;
fittings and sleeves for thermometers;
insulation - basalt wool;
painted metal for sheathing.

From the cylinders, you need to unscrew the valves and cut off the covers with a grinder, filling them with water to prevent the explosion of gas residues. We carefully bend the copper tube into a coil around another pipe of a suitable diameter. Then we proceed like this:

Using the presented drawing, drill holes in the future heat accumulator for pipes and thermometer sleeves.
Fasten by welding inside the cylinders several metal brackets for mounting the DHW heat exchanger.
Put the cylinders one on top of the other and weld together.
Install a coil inside the resulting tank, releasing the ends of the tube through the holes. Use gland packing to seal these places.
Attach the bottom and lid.
Insert an air outlet into the lid, and a drain valve into the bottom.
Weld the brackets for attaching the skin. Make them of different lengths so that the finished product has rectangular shape. It will be inconvenient to bend the lining in a semicircle, and it will not be aesthetically pleasing.
Insulate the tank and screw the casing with self-tapping screws.

Docking tank with TT-boiler without circulation pump

The design feature of this heat accumulator is that it is connected to a solid fuel boiler directly, without a circulation pump. Therefore, steel pipes Ø50 mm laid with a slope are used for docking, the coolant circulates by gravity. To supply water to heating radiators, a pump + three-way mixing valve is installed after the buffer tank.

Conclusion

On many Internet resources there is a statement that making a heat accumulator with your own hands is a trifling matter. If you study our material, you will understand that such statements are far from reality, in fact, the issue is quite complex and serious. You can’t just take a barrel and attach it to a solid fuel boiler. Hence the advice: think carefully about all the nuances before starting work. And without the qualification of a welder, it is not worth taking on a buffer tank, it is better to order it in a specialized workshop.

Not every dacha has the opportunity to connect to the water supply or equip its own source in the form of a well or well - the only option that allows you to provide yourself with precious liquid in such a situation is to create your own "reservoir". A water tank in the country will allow not only to establish watering of plants, but also to create a full-fledged water supply system. How to choose, install or make a storage tank for a summer residence with your own hands will be discussed in this article - together with the site moyadacha.org we will deal with various options for solving this issue.

Plastic containers for water in the country photo

Water tank in the country: varieties and their features

The first thing you need to know, when approaching the issue of choosing a container for storing water in the country, is that they can be made either from metal or from modern polymers - plastics, which are far superior to metal in all their technical characteristics. Let's compare these two types of capacity and see which one is better.

You can see what plastic containers are for summer cottages in this video.

In general, the advantages of polymers over steel are obvious, and you won’t have to suffer for a long time with the choice between one and the other product - in all respects, light and durable plastic tanks are much better. Also in favor of tanks of this type is also the simple technology of their installation, which can easily be done by hand. We will talk about this a little later, but for now we will deal with other options for classifying water storage tanks in the country.

Drinking water tanks for summer cottages: underground or ground installation

Additionally, all existing tanks and reservoirs for giving can be divided according to the type of installation - in this respect, they can be underground and ground. Each of these containers has its own advantages and disadvantages, which you should be aware of when wondering which storage tank for water in the country is better?

In general, the choice is yours - what capacity to purchase for a summer residence is up to you. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe site or the strength of the floors in the house allows, then why not use a simpler surface option?

How to install a water tank in the country: installation features

Installation of ground and underground dislocation tanks is carried out different ways– this is clear to everyone, it is not clear only how exactly this is done. And this is done in the following way.

The process of installing the tank, in principle, is laborious, but quite simple - there are practically no subtleties here. So what's up for self-installation you can take it boldly. Unless, of course, this is a high-altitude installation, which is associated with the manufacture of serious supporting structures(because they have to be calculated).

In conclusion of the topic about water tanks in the country, it remains to say only a few words about cone tanks, which are an excellent solution for creating an open-type reservoir. So to speak, a technical reservoir from which watering can be carried out.

moyadacha.org

SAVE… WATER

Any garden or household plot, as a rule, gives a return and pleases the owner with a sufficient amount of ... water. If there is a natural source or central water supply nearby, then the problem of irrigation is simplified, but in most cases one cannot even hope for a source. In hot summers, when it rarely rains, water consumption increases sharply, and wells and wells can no longer cope with the increased load. In such cases, it becomes necessary to have a supply of water on the site. And here the question arises: where to store it?

If possible, you can buy a medium-sized tank truck or something similar, but still this is not a way out. In addition, over time, the metal rusts, polluting the water. It is much more practical and affordable to make a tank of concrete, and make it underground so that it does not take up space on the site.

Where to start building? First, it is necessary to determine the location and size of the future storage. Considering that the construction is quite laborious, one should not lay very big sizes. Practice shows that the most optimal volume is 3.5 ... 4 m3.

So, when a place is chosen and the contours of the pit are drawn on the surface of the earth, they begin to dig it. In this case, it is necessary to periodically control the verticality of the walls and the correctness of the shape in plan. After excavation, the pit is prepared for concreting. This work is not difficult; however, there are some features in the installation of formwork. It is best to use formwork from several parts, and not install it at once to the full height, since in this case the concrete mass may hang and voids may form. It follows from this that the height of the formwork part must be chosen such that it is possible to compact the concrete manually. Usually it is 500 ... 600 mm. Simplified formwork can be done by driving stakes into the bottom of the pit near the walls, behind which sheets of iron are inserted.

The thickness of concrete walls is determined from the strength condition:

where σr - design stress, kg/cm2; σ - allowable stress, kg/cm2;

σр=(D*ɣ*h)/(2*t),

where D is the diameter of the tank, cm; ɣ - specific gravity of water, kg/cm3; h is the internal height of the tank, cm; t - wall thickness, cm.

For example, let's take a tank with a diameter of 1.6 m and an internal height of 2 m (volume 4.35 m3), σр = 5 kg/cm2, then:

t=(160*0.001*200)/(2*5)=3.2 cm.

Underground tank:

1 - ring (steel), 2 - "glass" (reinforced concrete), 3 - sand, 4 blind area (concrete).

With a triple margin of safety, the wall thickness turns out to be 10 cm. We made this small digression into theory not by chance. The fact is that there are often containers obtained by simply plastering the walls of the pit with concrete. They serve for a very short time, if they do not fail at the first filling with water. Typical places of destruction: the bottom of the walls, the bottom or joints with the ceiling. In the latter case, the reason is the incorrect design of the ceiling: the blind area protruding beyond the contour of the tank serves as its support on the ground. When filled with water under its weight, the tank sags, and the upper part hangs on the blind area, as on a base plate, after which it comes off. This implies the conclusion that the blind area must be performed, as shown in the figure - without connection with the "glass".

After the formwork is installed, reinforcement is placed in the resulting space between it and the ground (any scrap metal can be used) and concrete is poured.

The poured concrete mixture hardens in a day or two; then the formwork is rearranged.

After erecting the walls of the "glass", the formwork is removed and the bottom is poured. Final stage in processing internal surfaces reservoir - the so-called ironing. It consists in plastering with cement diluted with water to the consistency of sour cream. You can apply this solution with a brush. A layer thickness of 2 ... 3 mm will protect the container from water filtration.

Overlapping is carried out taking into account the above recommendations. The formwork for this operation is suspended.

The dimensions of the overground part of the storage are selected within the range of 600…700 mm in height and 500…550 mm in diameter. It can be camouflaged as a well of the appropriate style, then the whole structure will become an architectural addition and decoration of the garden plot.

During operation underground tank it is necessary to periodically completely free from water and clean - otherwise, like any body of water, it will become polluted.

L. KURDELYAS, p. Terny, Mykolaiv region

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modelist-constructor.com

Water tanks: plastic, reinforced concrete, metal, what to choose, can you do it yourself

Water is the source of life, and man cannot exist without water. In addition to drinking, water is used in everyday life, and for a full-fledged comfortable life the owner must definitely take care of the source on his site. Plumbing is not carried out in every locality, but there are a lot of options for how to install a storage tank near your home.

What varieties are there

Depending on the purpose of using water, there are several types of reservoirs:

metal;
plastic;
reinforced concrete xenons;
homemade tanks;

If the water is used for drinking and cooking, then the tank is made of high quality stainless steel that meets all standards. For air exchange in such containers, holes are provided, covered with nets and protected from precipitation. Two pipes are connected to the tank: inlet and outlet water, on which water taps are installed. Such tanks need to be cleaned and disinfected 2 times a year, for which a special hatch is provided through which a person gets inside. The main disadvantage of such a tank is the high price and the high probability that the metal container can be stolen if left unattended for a while.

There are also rainwater tanks. They are made of lower quality metal than drinking water containers. But it's not always bad. As statistics show, in the summer a person uses 100 liters of liquid every day, most of which goes to watering the garden and other household needs. In order not to spend a lot of money on drinking or tap water for domestic use, there are special tanks for collecting rainwater. It consists of a working part, where liquid enters in the form of precipitation, and a room for equipment, where filters are located.

Such a tank is placed under the roof of the house, where the gutter roofing system collects water and sends it to the tank through special gutters. But this is a rather expensive system, so it would be impractical for an ordinary summer resident to install it at home. Rainwater can be used for washing with soft water, watering plants, etc. At the same time, if the house is large enough, and it is located in an area where summers are often rainy, significant savings will be noticeable.

The easiest option is to install an ordinary metal barrel of at least 5 cubic meters. l. and wall thickness of 5 mm. Its main advantage is the ability to leave water for the winter. Then in the spring there will be no need to worry about where to get water for household needs. Among the disadvantages of a metal barrel are:

the need to paint the surface so that it does not rust;
difficult to transport;
if it is made of valuable metal (aluminum, galvanized), the barrel can be stolen.

Plastic

The most popular are plastic water containers for summer cottages. This is due to the main advantage of plastic - low weight and the possibility of transportation. In addition, the advantages of plastic tanks include:

On the market you can find a plastic container of any shape and size. Due to the hygienic nature of the material, drinking water suppliers use plastic containers on order, for example, eurocubes of any size.

Table: types of plastic water storage tanks

Reinforced concrete

This is a special type of water storage tank. It is a reinforced concrete monolithic structure which can store a large amount of water. Installation and installation of xenons should only be carried out by professionals, because poor-quality connection of plastic waterproofing sheets can break the tightness of the tank, and the water in it will quickly deteriorate. However, the cost of such a structure is very high, so it makes no sense for a simple summer resident to install such a monumental structure if he does not have a farm of 300 head of cattle and a huge plot of 20 hectares.

In the event that there is no money for a factory-made water storage tank, or other circumstances prevent this, you can use improvised means and build a storage tank from what is at hand.

How to make a storage tank for water with your own hands

The best tires for such purposes will be tractor tires, namely, tires from the T-150 diesel tractor. Or you can buy used tires from a truck at any enterprise or in a car park. It must be said right away that the water from such a reservoir cannot be used for drinking or cooking. Only for household needs! And at the same time, such a tank becomes at the same time a rainwater storage tank that does not contain chlorine. Unlike plastic, tire containers cannot be punctured or scratched. The tire does not rot or leak water.

Tire tank manufacturing steps:

Capacities will be very useful in the country. Water can be used for irrigation and other household needs.

septik.guru

Water supply to the cottage: building a water tank

Lack of water in a summer cottage is the most unfavorable moment that residents may face country houses. Even if there is a water supply, the problem of lack of water can arise: malfunctions in the system, pollution sewage, siltation, any difficulties associated with ensuring a constant and uninterrupted supply of clean water. In this case, summer residents provided for the storage of water in reserve in various containers.

Water tank for the cottage made of plastic, different in displacement

The most common water storage tank is plastic containers. various forms and volumes. To date, this is the most affordable container, which is not difficult to find in the supermarket. In such vessels, water can be brought even by car, if there is no well or well in the vicinity.

Plastic containers are made taking into account the most modern technologies, they can easily store drinking water. Quite often, at their summer cottage, housewives start canning fruits and vegetables. Such plastic barrels are just perfect for pickling cucumbers, tomatoes, sauerkraut, for pickled apples. For almost everything that grows in the garden and in the garden. And if the summer cottage is also replete with grapes, then without making homemade wine in such containers, then you will reproach yourself for the missed moment. plastic barrels do not affect the fermentation process, gas outlet pipes can be easily adapted to them. Delicious and very fragrant wine made from homemade grapes, prepared with your own hands, will be an excellent reason to show off to neighbors and friends, especially since plastic containers do not affect the taste of wine.

Why you should use plastic containers:

a large range of displacement;
weightlessness of the material;
heat and moisture resistance;
not subject to rotting, corrosion, various kinds of damage;
they are not affected by alkalis, solvents, acids;
withstand a wide temperature range: from - 30℃ to + 60℃;
do not have seams and due to this they are quite tight;
do not cause trouble when washing and cleaning;
durable;
do not absorb odors;
do not change the main taste characteristics of the products that are stored in them;
resistant to UV and sunlight;
if you follow the basic rules for caring for such a container, they are ready to serve at least 50 years.

Plastic containers for water in the country are needed like air. Often there are situations when even in winter there is no water. When purchasing such vessels with any volume, you can not worry that there will be no water for watering your favorite plants, for brewing coffee and tea, for showering. Water should always be on the site, and as it is used, it should be constantly replenished. Before purchasing a plastic barrel for storing, for example, water, you need to clearly understand for yourself what consumption and for what period should be spent. If the consumption is small, then barrels with a volume of 3000 liters, 5000 liters will be very bulky, and they do not have the lowest price.

How to make a water tank for a shower

Water tank for a summer shower in the country

Water procedures in the country, especially in the hot summer season, are simply necessary. Most often, the cottage is not only a place of rest, but also a place of work. In this case, an outdoor shower is indispensable. It will contribute to a charge of vivacity after working in the garden, walking in the forest, gatherings around the fire with friends. The most important detail, which will be needed for the construction of such a useful device is a water tank for a shower. You can buy it ready-made in the store, especially since their choice is very huge, but you can minimal cost do it yourself.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of a water storage tank

How storage tanks are used

If your site has serious problems with regular water supply, it will be very difficult to do without a water storage tank. These containers can store both tap water and rainwater. Water supplies can be useful for organizing a summer shower, as well as in case of a possible fire. In addition, water from the reservoir is used for watering and for "bathing needs".

There are several common types of storage tank designs, most often they are rectangular or round.

In order to determine the optimal tank size in your case, it is necessary to clearly understand the possible needs of the site for water over a certain period of time. So, if you use the container rarely, there is a high probability of reproduction inside it of various harmful organisms. This probability can be several times greater if the tank is not protected from sunlight. So, in advance to determine the optimal volume of the tank, it is really very important.

Another important point: if we are dealing with a ferrous metal tank, then we can’t do without painting and priming, otherwise the structure will inevitably and quickly rust.

About welding steps

Let's start by laying boards under each of the corners of the sheet of metal, which in the future will play the role of the bottom of the structure. It is necessary to make sure that the “substrate” has the same thickness in all corners.

When welding, you should always make sure that none of the sides goes beyond the border of the base. You can apply the following approach: all sidewalls are welded together and only then - with the base. The fit of the sheets to each other should be as tight as possible.

The next step is to finally weld each seam. Welding can be carried out both with external and inside. It is important not to leave a single “lack of penetration”. The structure must be rigid. To give it additional rigidity, we recommend the use of squares from the inside and outside.

An important structural element is a drain pipe, coupled with a tap, which must be arranged in the lower half of the tank.

Don't forget to check the tightness level of the tank!

We check like this. After completing the welding work, we prepare the required amount of chalk solution and apply the mixture to each seam from the inside. After the solution has dried inside the container, apply the mixture to the seams outside. Thus, we will be able to identify "lack of penetration" clogged with slag. This will take a few minutes. In the event of the appearance of characteristic spots, it is necessary to deal with the problem area - repeat welding.

Leak testing and re-welding are carried out immediately before painting.

The finished structure can be placed on several pre-laid bricks, but it is better to use the option with a special stand.

In conclusion, we fill the tank with water and, for several days, observe the walls of the structure for the manifestation of liquid (outside).

For the production of a stainless steel tank, we recommend choosing a metal with a thickness of 1 to 2 millimeters. In order to prevent swelling of the filled container, a series of expansion tanks are usually installed, which prevent the creation of too much pressure.

Welding of steel storage tanks is carried out using porous electrodes or tungsten electrodes in argon. In some cases, semi-automatic argon welding is used, coupled with stainless wire.

Welding of an aluminum tank can also be done on its own, however, the mandatory specifications, which in some cases is very difficult to implement without the help of professionals.

One way or another, the quality of the work performed will largely depend on the qualifications of the welders and the technical capabilities of the welding equipment. Errors in the performance of work can lead to backfire, for example, to the appearance of tiny cracks. After a while, water will begin to go there.

We recommend purchasing steel tanks for "bathing needs" from a permanently operating specialized company. Containers of this type should not be painted: during the heating process, the paint may evaporate, which will lead to water and air pollution.

If you decide to stop at the option with "stainless steel", we recommend choosing one of two grades of metal for the manufacture of the tank: 8-12X18H10 (304) or 08X17 (aisi 430).

If we talk about the ideal volume of steel tanks for baths, here we can recall the well-known formula - 25-30 liters for each "guest". Thus, if the bath is designed for two or three guests, the optimal capacity is 50-80 liters.

For self-welding a steel container, the best solution would be to use sheets with a thickness of 1.1 to 2 millimeters.

The option of welding an aluminum tank is, objectively, more complicated. In this case, serious skills in working with this material will be required.

So, independently make a storage tank for water on own site is a very real challenge. However, one desire is not enough here. If at first something does not work out, there is always the opportunity to consult with people who know a lot about welding.

Carrying out such work on your own is a cost savings and invaluable experience!

Video: DIY summer shower ideas

distant summer cottages often cut off from central system plumbing, which greatly complicates the care of grown crops. Throughout the season, plants require abundant watering, especially in hot and dry weather. If it is rather problematic to equip a well on a site, you can create your own storage facility where water will be accumulated and saved.

Everyone can afford to install a tank for irrigation on the site. With its help, timely watering is organized, and a prototype of a water supply system is created, which allows the use of liquid for various purposes.

What materials are storage tanks made of?

Tanks for storing and supplying water are available on the market in various versions and are made of metal or durable plastic. When buying a container for irrigation for a long time, you should consider what material it is made of. Modern polymers make it possible to create very durable products with high technical specifications. In terms of quality and strength, they can surpass metal counterparts.

Metal

The tank made of this material is classic version familiar to most gardeners. Iron products have been used to store fluid for many years. Everyone who works in the country and uses an artificial metal drive knows about all its shortcomings:

susceptibility to corrosion;
fast contamination;
difficult care.

Protecting a metal tank from destructive corrosion is quite difficult. To keep it whole appearance outside, it is enough to paint the surface with paint. But inside, the water will create a constant impact that destroys the metal. After a couple of months, sediment forms at the bottom of such tanks. Internal cleaning is a difficult task. The positive side is the good warming up of the barrel and its contents under the rays of the sun.

An alternative solution would be to purchase a stainless steel product that does not have these disadvantages. This also applies to the option with high financial costs.

VIDEO: Barrel for watering, making a stand

Durable plastic

Buying a watering tank of 500 liters or more is a reasonable decision, based on the fact that they do not have the disadvantages of metal structures. Such products are made of high-tech plastic, which allows them to withstand heavy loads. Unlike cheap plastic, they are not afraid of temperature changes. Integrity is also maintained under the influence of high water pressure.

One of the main advantages of plastic tanks is their light weight. They are easy to transport and install in the right place. You can install the plastic structure yourself without special equipment.

In order to prevent the tank from bursting when the water freezes in winter, it is either completely drained, or a large log or 5-liter plastic bottles are thrown inside, which completely cover the surface.

To make a container for irrigation for a large volume, it is additionally strengthened with special metal rings. This design gives the final product resistance to the pressure generated by water. The next advantage of products made of plastic is the price. It is more affordable than analogues made of metal. The technology of manufacturing plastic containers allows us to offer the buyer tanks of various shapes:

cylindrical;
rectangular;
square.

The shape of the container does not affect the quality of irrigation. The main thing is that it succinctly fit into the surrounding landscape and be convenient for installation.

eurocube

The Eurocube has a cubic shape, reinforced on the outside with a solid metal grate. The container is installed on a special pallet. This is a great option for organizing a drip irrigation system with the addition of fertilizers. It is designed for one cube of water. The design provides for a screw-on lid and a tap for draining the liquid at the bottom. To protect against rupture, the same technology is used as described above.

How to calculate the volume of the tank for irrigation

If, in the manufacture of a metal container, you can independently determine the volume in advance - from 1 to 10 cubic meters (a larger volume may not withstand the support), then a plastic one is bought ready-made. In general, the volume of the reservoir depends on the area of the irrigated area. On average, 1 square takes about 30 liters of water per irrigation. Thus, if the area of \u200b\u200bthe garden or plot is 50 sq.m., then the minimum volume of the tank will be 1.5 cubic meters (1500 liters), while a supply of water is required.

Gardeners on plots of 6 acres usually install 3 cubic meters, which is enough for a weekly watering.

Installation of containers for irrigation

All the positive characteristics of tanks for storing and supplying water for irrigating plants are offset by poor installation and location. Therefore, it is important to properly place and install the irrigation tank on the site. The storage tank must be located in a place where rainwater drains. This is the easiest way to restock this resource without any effort. Rainwater is the most beneficial for plants.

It is necessary to determine where the barrel will stand:

underground;
on a surface;
on a special platform.

Mounting the product in a suspended state allows you to install a faucet, and by connecting a hose to it, get pressure from its own weight of water. Otherwise, a pump is installed that supplies water from the barrel.

For reference! To create the optimal pressure of the water column for the required pressure, you need to raise the tank to a height of two meters. This will result in a pressure of 0.2 atmospheres. It is desirable to make it higher, but at the same time you need to think carefully about how to make a stable pedestal and how to give it optimal rigidity.

Technical advantages of using a vegetable garden irrigation tank

Using a pump to raise water from a well is quite enough to meet domestic needs. However, their power may not be enough to supply liquid to the planted area. Inexpensive pumps are not able to work at a pressure of 3-4 bar. The pump will operate at its maximum capacity, but will not create optimal conditions for irrigation.

If a tank for irrigation is installed on the site, then this problem will be solved. Gradually, the pump will pump the necessary amount of liquid for abundant irrigation of all plants. In order for the water from the barrel to flow and flow through the hoses, there is no need to create high pressure. Automatic protection installed on the equipment will turn off the pump when the water runs out.

To protect the pump from permanent shutdown or possible breakdown, it is necessary to set the level, dropping to which water will again flow into the tank. You can protect yourself from overflowing with a float valve.

If you take water in the country directly from the well, then it will flow to the plants in a cold form. This adversely affects their condition and causes the development of various diseases. The liquid passing through the storage tank is heated to a temperature environment, which is optimal for garden crops.

The well may also contain various particles that will be in suspension in the water. Their contact with plants is not desirable. Water that has stood for several hours in the tank will give a sediment at the bottom with all the harmful impurities.

Modern solutions for the manufacture of containers for irrigation

Those who do not want to connect hoses, valves and other equipment for arranging an irrigation system should purchase a watering tank based on the installation of a special equipment system inside the tank. This is a station for supplying heated water under pressure, which is configured for automatic irrigation of plantings.

This set of equipment consists of:

durable plastic tank;
powerful submersible pump;
filters;
locking valve;
valves;
automatic water level control systems;
bottom drain.

Such systems for irrigation of the site have a number of key advantages:

operate in silent mode;
provide maximum pressure;
filter and warm water;
control the liquid level in the tank.

At correct installation barrel used for everyday irrigation, the land will be fully provided with the necessary care garden plants resource. The main thing is to correctly determine the amount of capacity required for your needs. It should correspond to the water flow in your area with a small margin.

VIDEO: Irrigation tank and outlet water pressure