Most developers, when choosing a ground floor floor design, consider two options. The first is reinforced concrete slabs.

Second - wooden beams(lags). Many people do not realize that it is possible to make a high-quality and inexpensive floor on the ground.

Meanwhile, this design cannot be called new. It began to be used after its invention artificial stone called concrete.

About what it represents flooring on bulk soil, what its pros and cons are, we will talk in this article.

At its core, a ground floor is a “cushion” of fine crushed stone or expanded clay on which lies reinforced slab from monolithic concrete. Ballast bedding performs two tasks:

raises the level of coverage to a given height;
transfers the weight of the structure to the ground.

The floor is protected from soil moisture and heat loss by insulation laid on a layer of waterproofing.

The load-bearing basis of such a coating is a layer of soil. Therefore, the main risk factors when installing a floor on the ground in a private house are frost heaving and moisture. The first threat is blocked by insulating the foundation base from the outside with sheet foam. It cuts off the cold bridge that causes water to freeze.

It should be noted that when permanent residence in the house, the temperature of the soil underneath never drops below zero degrees. If the building is empty in winter, then the forces of frost heaving can cause cracks in the concrete screed and deform it. In this case, you cannot do without insulating the base.

Protection from soil moisture is a relatively simple measure only at low levels groundwater(2-3 meters). On raw and marshy areas It is better to refuse the installation of such a coating. The cost of waterproofing and strengthening the foundation in this case increases significantly.

For pile and columnar foundations, a slab on the ground is not the best solution. In this case, the cost of protecting the bedding from frost is higher than when using a foundation “tape”.

Construction technology

There are two ways to install floors on the ground:

For concrete preparation;
Without a rough layer of concrete directly onto the compacted base (pillow).

The first method is rarely used today. It was developed at a time when roofing felt was used to protect floors from moisture. To glue it, we made a layer concrete preparation(subfloor).

The second option is simpler and cheaper. Modern waterproofing materials can be laid directly on the ballast pad without sticking to a solid base.

The process of installing a concrete floor on the ground begins with pouring the underlying layer. Before this, the installation of water supply and sewerage networks must be completed.

For backfilling, you can use any well-compacted soil. Fine crushed stone (fraction 5-10 mm), coarse river sand or sand-gravel mixture are suitable for this. The pillow is poured in layers of 15 cm, spilling each with water and compacting with a manual or mechanical tamper.

Compacting the bedding with a vibrating rammer

To improve thermal insulation, the upper level of the pillow can be made of expanded clay gravel (10 cm). The total thickness of the ballast “pie” should be in the range from 30 to 40 cm.

Film waterproofing laid under the insulation needs to be protected from damage by sharp gravel and pressing through expanded clay. Therefore, the backfill is completed with a 5-centimeter layer of compacted sand. The thickness of the film laid on the ground must be at least 0.4 mm.

When laying film insulation, its strips are spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, fixing them with construction tape. The edges are let down onto the masonry to a height equal to the total thickness of the insulation, concrete screed and finishing coat. A thermal gap 2-3 cm wide is left between the structural “pie” of the floor and the walls and partitions. It is filled with scraps of polyethylene foam or special thermal tape.

To insulate the base, you can use EPS (extruded polystyrene foam), sawdust concrete or perlite concrete. Often, waterproofing is not laid under foam plastic, since it practically does not absorb moisture. It is covered with a polymer film on top. It protects the insulation from the destructive effects of the alkaline environment of the cement mortar.

Under lightweight concrete on sawdust and perlite, a plastic film is needed. The thickness of the listed heat insulators is not the same. For XPS it is 50 mm. The layer of sawdust and perlite concrete should be at least 10 cm.

Having laid the thermal insulation, a concrete screed is made on its surface using fine-grained filler (fraction 5-10 mm, thickness 10 cm). The work is carried out in two stages. First, pour a layer 5 cm thick and lay a steel mesh on it (mesh 10x10 cm, wire diameter 3-4 mm). After this, the thickness of the screed is adjusted to the design level, determined by calculation of the expected loads. Recommended concrete class B12.5.

This is how you get the correct flooring on the ground when the soil water level is low. Rough concrete preparation for rigid insulation is not done. There is no real benefit from it, and the increase in the cost of 1m2 of the finished structure is very noticeable.

Installing a heating system (warm floor) changes the technology and sequence of work. In this case, first a rough concrete preparation is poured over the compacted pad and a layer of waterproofing is laid out. Having laid the insulation (EPS), pipes are fixed to it and a leveling screed is made of concrete. The reinforcing mesh is laid over the pipes or heating cable.

In passing, we note that floors on the ground can be made not only in brick, block, but also in wooden houses. With the right approach, ballast backfill does not have a negative impact on the wood.

One of the options for properly pairing such a structure with chopped walls is shown in the diagram below.

Interface with a wooden wall

At low groundwater levels, a concrete slab lying on clay or on a layer of compacted waterproofed bedding is made in the basement. This is a very common option in cottage construction.

Before installing the screed, the area of the room must be divided into strips 80-100 cm wide using a steel U-shaped profile or wooden beacon boards placed on edge. The damper tape is attached to the walls before pouring begins so that it protrudes 1.5-2 cm above the design mark of the finishing surface.

Pouring concrete begins at the far end of the room and moves towards the front door.

Laying is done in strips, filling the cells slightly above their level. For leveling, use a vibrating screed or a metal rule, moving it along the beacons.

After allowing the mixture to dry, the beacons are removed from it, filling the resulting seams with fresh concrete. After this, the concrete is covered with film and given 4 weeks to gain strength, periodically moistening it with water.

Pros and cons of the design

When planning to lay a floor on the ground, you need to know what its advantages are over other types of foundations:

Reasonable cost;
Readiness of the base for laying any floor coverings;
There is no need to ventilate the underground space to avoid the appearance of fungus;
Greater durability compared to wooden and reinforced concrete floors.

The disadvantages of this design include:

Loss of useful room height (up to 60 cm);
Labor intensity of waterproofing work at high groundwater level;
Poor compatibility with columnar and pile foundations;
High cost of repairing hidden communications.

There are different methods for installing panel heating. One of them is underfloor heating. The peculiarity is that such heating is done during the construction of the building, and not subsequently its operation, due to the desire to modernize the housing.

If you plan to make a heated floor on the ground in a private house, you should divide all the work into two stages: a rough screed is poured onto the lower layers, then all other layers of the cake are laid out. This is an ironclad rule for installation, dictated by possible shrinkage of the soil.

The design of a warm floor, which is installed indoors, resembles a kind of “pie”, since it consists of several layers.

Pouring a heated floor over the ground directly depends on the characteristics of the soil. It must meet certain requirements and standards.

So, groundwater should be no higher than 5–6 meters from the level of the top layer. It is important that the soil of the site does not have a high value of looseness and airiness. Therefore they are not allowed construction works on sandstones and black soil. It is also important to take into account the load that will be placed on the structure during operation. The floor arrangement must provide the following:

reliable thermal insulation of the room;
prevent groundwater from flooding the premises;
eliminate external noise;
prevent the penetration of water vapor;
provide comfort to residents.

Water heated floor on the ground

The panel heating design is an excellent solution for living rooms and work premises with a large area (more than 20 m2). Here you can use electric heating or water. In small rooms (bathroom, balcony or loggia) it is quite difficult to place pipes. Therefore, the use of electric heated floors is allowed (and even recommended). As a rule, everyone strives to provide comfort primarily in large rooms. It is worth considering the water floor on the ground and its features.

It is important to know! It is prohibited to install water pipes in high-rise buildings. panel system heating together with a centralized heat source. This is due to depressurization of the system, the introduction of additional resistances into the pre-calculated design, which will interfere with correct operation.

Based on this, it is worth understanding that to connect heating it is worth considering the presence of an autonomous heat source. And for this you need to contact the appropriate government agencies for permission.

There are several methods for installing water systems. But for each of them you need to provide the following:

When laying on the ground, you should take care of organizing a kind of “cushion”. The first layer of sand is laid (thickness 5–7 cm), followed by fine stone (layer thickness 8–10 cm).
The second stage is waterproofing. Almost everything can be used available materials. Bitumen-rubber or bitumen-polymer mastic is suitable. As an alternative, the pasting type can be used. This option has fiberglass reinforcement.
You can't do without thermal insulation. You can use polystyrene foam. The thickness of this layer is variable and depends on the calculations performed.
An additional layer of thermal insulation can be used roll type coated with foil (this is an auxiliary structure, so this step can be skipped).
Laying heated floor pipes on the ground.
A screed is made over the pipeline. It will also require mesh reinforcement. The height of such a structure together with heating elements should be 50–70 mm. This is done to quickly warm up the coating. Reinforcement is carried out above the heated floor structure. This is done in order to evenly distribute the load on the system.
Finish coating. Here it is allowed to use materials that cannot be thermal effects underfloor heating system.

The main mistakes when installing heated floors on the ground

How to make a floor screed on the ground for a heated floor

Current methods for installing concrete screed on the ground are usually divided into 4 main stages:

preparatory work;
pouring concrete screed;
plane processing;
sealing the cake.

The layered structure of the cake is of particular importance. It includes the following:

base (it must be compacted before subsequent work);
fine sand;
crushed stone;
waterproofing layer;
primary concrete covering;
steam protection;
panel or roll insulation;
clean concrete screed with reinforcement.

Preparatory work begins with leveling. This will allow you to determine the level of the ground and floor of the future building. The soil needs to be compacted using special units.

The waterproofing layer can be made of membrane materials. The only requirement put forward to him is integrity. Otherwise, damage may result in flooding. Maximum tightness of the layer can be achieved by laying it overlapping and fastening the parts with mounting tape.

Rough screed made from lean concrete mixed with fine crushed stone. They do not extend to such a surface special requirements. By the way, it can have height differences of up to 4 mm.

Insulation of floors on the ground requires the use of high-quality materials. Ideally, this layer should serve not only as thermal insulation, but also protect the room from water penetration. This will make your home more secure from flooding.

Installation of the finishing screed is carried out in several steps.

Important! Reinforcement directly depends on the design loads on the heated floor.

If the value is small, you can use a road grid. If the expected loads are large enough, then it is recommended to use a frame made of iron rods with a diameter of 8 mm.

At the end of the work, the guide beacons are installed and the final pouring of the cement-concrete mixture is carried out. The final stage is leveling the floor.

Heat loss through the floor on the ground. How to calculate?

Heat losses through the floor structure are calculated slightly differently than through other building envelopes. Before installing heating, you need to familiarize yourself with the methodology for determining them.

The entire plane is divided into zones of a certain size. There are 4 of them in total:

The horizontal component of zone I is 2 m from the wall. The vertical component is the thickness of the load-bearing wall that will need to be insulated. It is 1.5 m.
Zone II is another 2 meters of floor. The area begins directly from zone I to the center of the room for which the calculation is being carried out.
Zone III – another 2 meters. This area originates from zone II.
And zone IV is the remaining floor area of the room.

Afterwards a sketch is drawn. If the room is small, then the conditional division may not be into 4, but into 2-3 zones. Next, the thermal resistance is determined for each area.

Regulatory literature states that it should be equal to 2.1 m2°C/W. To ensure this indicator, you need to know the thermal conductivity of each layer of the cake. The second area has a standard resistance of 4.3 m2°C/W. The third is 8.6, and the fourth is 14.2.

After determining the thermal resistances for each zone, you must immediately calculate the area. In addition, you should know the difference in temperature between outside and inside air. The temperature of the coldest five-day period should be taken as the calculated value.

After this, heat loss is calculated using the formula:

Q = S*T/R, where:
Q – heat loss, W
S – estimated area of each zone, m2
R – thermal resistance of the enclosing structure, m2°C/W
T – temperature difference.

When the calculation of heat loss for each floor zone is completed, you need to calculate the total value for the entire room. To do this, you need to add the results obtained for each section.

Heated floor pie on the ground: installation features

The earthen base on which the heating will be installed must be prepared. To do this, the soil is leveled and the top layer is compacted. If necessary, a layer of bedding is placed on the ground. It consists of crushed stone or gravel. The most commonly used material is the middle fraction. This prevents capillary penetration of groundwater into the room. The need to lay such a “pillow” arises only if high level groundwater.

The layer of rough screed mentioned above also has certain nuances. The thickness should be from 50 to 100 mm. The grade of concrete used is M100 or M200. It is advisable to reinforce the sole in cases where the soil was poorly compacted. Also, its use is justified in cases where there are discrepancies in the density of the base.

Advice. If there are holes or trenches, reinforcement is a necessary element of the pie.

A rough screed for underfloor heating on the ground in a private house can be laid on the floors of basements. This is done to level the plane. The thickness of such a layer should not be less than 3 cm.

There is also such a thing as dry screed. Its use has gained popularity due to the fact that there are no wet concrete works. It is advisable to use the technology only for arranging a rough screed.

When laying a heated floor on the ground, you should also take care of the deformation layer. A damper tape will help here. The material will eliminate the likelihood of a thermal bridge. It also compensates for the stress caused by heating concrete covering. This prevents the screed from expanding and cracking. Damper tape is laid on all sides of external enclosing structures. But this is done only after applying plaster and preparatory work for the final finishing of the building.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, use of modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor) make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A ground floor is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage located above the ground surface.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork during construction iron concrete slab ceilings This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or at a height bulk soil more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in the spaces between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand-gravel mixture, and if the groundwater level is low, sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Do not place large crushed stones, broken bricks, or pieces of concrete into the cushion. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the fill soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, from crushing, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

ground floor with concrete screed;
ground floor with dry screed;
ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective layer of concrete of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen base with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for insulating floors on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. The monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . To more thoroughly level the surface of a concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer. cm.
On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. On its basis it is possible various options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer of concrete preparation. A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for gluing roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

A profiled membrane is a fabric made of high-density polyethylene (HDP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or truncated cone-shaped) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes can withstand the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding crawler-mounted machines) without breaking.

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand bed with the spikes facing down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If upper layer If the ground cushion is filled with expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with bulk density 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay has reduced thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In ground floors, instead of a concrete screed as the top load-bearing layer, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, nor in wet areas- bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 — Flooring- parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed made of ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnished parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed of class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the overall resistance to heat transfer in the area floor - soil - base must be no less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

These are the minimum requirements for ground floor insulation. It is clear that what larger sizes thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Mineral wool slabs must be covered with a vapor-permeable film on top, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of 20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There's another one design diagram gender is wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

Installing a heated floor in itself is considered a complex engineering task. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the step-by-step design.

Laying heated floors on the ground is a complex engineering undertaking. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long service life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the floor covering under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the recommendations for device technology.

Which pipes are suitable for heated floors?

The first thing you need to do is decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue of purchasing the right type of product is being resolved, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know the pipe fastening system from the very beginning, and you will provide everything necessary for this.

So, let's start by refusing pipes that do not have such a purpose as being used in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes, connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic water pipes. The former do not perform well in terms of reliability, the latter conduct heat poorly and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.

Initially, a convenient and reliable installation system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. It could be reinforcement mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with wire, but imagine installation in this way over an area of 100 m2 or more, or if suddenly several ties come off during the process of pouring concrete. Therefore, a mounting base or rail system should be used. They are attached to the base of the floor while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click clamps.

The fastening system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.

Finally, we decide on the pipe material. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the installation technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.

Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubes are easy to install; for soldering you will need a bottle of flux and gas-burner. Copper the best way manifests itself in “fast” underfloor heating systems, which operate in parallel with radiators, but not on an ongoing basis. Bend copper tubes are carried out according to a template; therefore, their fracture is extremely unlikely.

Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically unbreakable, but installation will require a special crimping tool. Polyethylene can have different densities, but not lower than 70% is recommended. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists the diffuse penetration of gases, at the same time, water in a pipe of such length can entrain significant volumes of oxygen from the external environment.

Soil preparation

When installing a heated floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined individually. But this data is important already at the first stage of work, so that, if necessary, the earthen floor is deepened and not sacrificing the height of the room.

In general, the soil is removed 30-35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled in the horizontal plane, the layer of geotextile is backfilled with incompressible material, in most cases ASG is used for this.

After careful manual compaction of the backfill, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. For additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface is brought into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the pie plus about another 10-15 mm.

Choice of insulation

A water-heated floor pie consists of insulation tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. The insulation itself is subject to a fairly narrow range of requirements.

Compressive strength is mainly standardized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of grade 225 according to GOST 9573-96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is typical that the minimum thickness of the slab is 40 mm, while when constructing a reflective screen made of EPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20-25 mm.

Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require waterproofing. Many may be stopped by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).

The thickness of the insulation is determined thermotechnical calculation. If concrete with expanded clay as a filler was used in the preparation, 10-15 mm of EPS or 60 mm of mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values should be increased by 50%.

Preparatory and accumulating screeds

It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and any movement or vibration is excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If mineral wool is used, the concrete preparation must first be coated with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.

The screed layer above the insulation must be of such a thickness that its overall thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the heat shield. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5-2 cm from the final height of the ceilings, but to adjust the inertia of the heated floor, you can freely “play” with this value. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.

The top layer of the screed, subject to heating, is poured after fencing the walls with damper tape. For convenience, pouring the accumulating screed can be carried out in two stages. On the first one, about 15-20 mm is poured with reinforcement with a sparse mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting surface and attach the pipe installation system; the remainder is poured to the level of the zero mark, minus the thickness of the floor covering.

1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel backfill; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - water vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 — reinforcing mesh; 7 - underfloor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; 9 - floor covering; 10 - damper tape

System installation, proportions and loop pitch

Laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a pre-designed diagram drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate turn of the loop.

The same principle applies when zoning the floor. For example, in the play area, pipes can be laid in more frequent steps, but it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In each individual rectangular coil, depending on the heating priority, the tubes can be laid either as a snake, or a snail, or a combination of options. General rule simple: the further a specific point is from the beginning of the flow, the lower its temperature; on average, there is a drop of 1.5-2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, the optimal length of the loop is in the range of 50-80 meters.

The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the permissible bending radius. A denser laying is possible using a “snail” pattern or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to maintain a distance equal to 20-30 times the diameter of the tube. You also need to make adjustments for the thickness of the accumulating screed and the desired rate of heating of the floor.

The installation system is attached along the route of laying through the insulation to the concrete preparation layer; accordingly, the length of the fasteners (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% greater than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.

When laying the pipe, you should create an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all the loops are secured in installation system, they are being checked high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, the top layer of the accumulating screed is poured.

Including heated floors in the heating system

It is recommended to lay whole sections of pipe without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be led either to local collectors or led directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is a short distance from the boiler or if all rooms have a common corridor, which requires indirect heating.

The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to the collector unit. Each of the outlets is equipped with shut-off valves; ball valves with a red flywheel are installed on the supply pipes, and with a blue flywheel on the return pipes. A threaded transition with shut-off valves is necessary for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, its purging or flushing.

An example of a diagram for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - heating boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet for underfloor heating

The connection of collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators; two-pipe and combined connection schemes are possible. In addition to the thermostat, collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that support comfortable temperature The coolant in the supply is about 35-40 ºС.

Floors on the ground are arranged in individual residential buildings, bathhouses and utility rooms for all types of foundations, with the exception of columnar ones. You can make a dry and warm floor on any soil. This is a reliable, practical and durable design.

Modern owners of private houses prefer to heat rooms through the floor. The best option This type of heating consists of floors mounted directly on the ground. If we look at them in cross-section, then this is a layer cake consisting of several layers. The bottom layer is soil, and the top layer is finishing coat. The layers are arranged in a certain sequence, each with its own purpose, thickness and function.

The main disadvantage of floors on the ground is the high financial costs and time required for their production. There are also requirements for the soil: it should not be too loose, the groundwater level should not be closer than 5–6 m.

The layered structure of a heated floor on the ground should provide sound and heat insulation, prevent the penetration of groundwater, not accumulate water vapor in the floor layers and create comfortable conditions for residents.

Concrete floors

Concrete floors on the ground do not provide a basement or space under the floor for ventilation.

Important! When installing concrete floors on soil with close groundwater, it should be taken into account that their level may change over a short period of time. This must be taken into account when laying layers.

A classic floor on any soil consists of 10 layers:

Layers that protect against groundwater and distribute the load

Compacted clay pillow. It is necessary to stop the rise of groundwater. If, after removing a layer of soil, you reach clay, then it must be properly prepared. The clay layer cuts off the upward penetration of groundwater.
Sand pillow. Its purpose is also to prevent the ingress of groundwater and equalize the load on the ground. Sand weakens the capillary rise of water and evenly distributes the pressure of the underlying floor layers onto the ground. Any sand will do.
Large crushed stone. This is a kind of drainage, its purpose is to make the base strong and distribute the load. It does not allow water to flow upward due to capillary properties. Crushed stone is used in fractions of 40–60 mm.

The first three layers should be arranged in exactly this order, each with a thickness of 10 cm in a compacted state. The layers must be compacted.

Advice. It is difficult to compact a thick layer of sand or clay manually, therefore, when filling such a layer, you need to successively add and compact thinner layers (10–15 cm).

Waterproofing layer (roofing felt or polyethylene film). It is placed directly on the crushed stone, and it serves both to protect the crushed stone from the concrete solution flowing into it from above, and as an obstacle to the penetration of water vapor into the concrete layer from below. The film is laid over a whole sleeve (without cutting) and placed on the walls, gluing the overlaps with tape.
Rough screed 80 mm and thicker. For it you should take washed sand and small crushed stone (10–20 mm). Steel fiber is added to the solution or reinforcement is used. In order for the screed to be ready for the next stages of work, it must be kept for a certain time.
Waterproofing layer (coating waterproofing, roll or film). If the first layers are laid correctly and efficiently, for waterproofing you can use roofing felt without powder in 1-2 layers or a film with a thickness of at least 120 microns. The waterproofing layer must be monolithic. If roofing felt is used, the overlaps are coated with bitumen mastic, and the overlaps of polyethylene film are taped.
Insulation. The floor can be insulated with expanded clay, extruded polystyrene foam, or polystyrene foam. The thickness of polystyrene slabs and foam sheets depends on climatic conditions, but not less than 5 cm. Expanded clay is covered with a layer of 15 cm.
Waterproofing. It is recommended to lay waterproofing over expanded clay or other insulation. This will protect the insulation from moisture from entering upper layers and improve its thermal insulation properties. At this stage, a thick polyethylene film is used, which is laid in a continuous layer.
The screed is clean. It can accommodate underfloor heating heaters (water heating circuits, cable mats or heating cable). A layer of finishing screed is poured 50 mm or more. It is reinforced using composite or steel reinforcement, fiber is added to the solution.
Finish coating. If all layers are completed in the specified order, any coating can be laid.

Pros and cons of concrete floors on the ground

Advantages

Reliably protect the room from the cold. No matter what the weather is like outside, the soil will always be warm.
Any insulation and waterproofing materials are applicable, as well as any coatings for finishing floor.
The main load is distributed over the ground, there is no need to make additional calculations. If a large load is expected, you simply need to increase the thickness of the three lower layers.
It is possible to organize heating of the house through the floor, which will heat up quickly and distribute heat evenly, preventing drafts.
Protect the house from mold and proliferation of microorganisms.

Flaws

It is necessary to take into account the location of the groundwater level.
Can significantly reduce the height of the room under certain conditions design features Houses.
The technology is not applicable for pile and columnar foundations.
If problems arise in the system, its repair and dismantling is a very time-consuming and financial undertaking.
Installation of floors is a lengthy and complex procedure in terms of volume of work, as well as financially expensive; it is best to perform such work during the construction of a house.

How to make a concrete floor on the ground yourself

It is best to remove the soil and fill the first three layers immediately after laying the foundation of the house. First, calculations are made to what depth the soil needs to be removed. The level of the finished floor is taken as the zero mark. Add up the dimensions according to the thickness of each layer, for example:

laminate + backing -1.5 cm;
screed + waterproofing - 6 cm;
thermal insulation + waterproofing - 6–11 cm;
concrete screed 8–10 cm;
crushed stone, sand, clay - 15+15+10 cm;

The total value is 61.5 cm. If the layers are thicker, the soil will have to be removed to a greater depth. You need to add 5 cm to the resulting depth.

A hole is dug across the entire area of the building to the calculated depth and the soil is removed. For the convenience of subsequent work, the levels of the floor layers are marked on the foundation walls along the entire perimeter. This will make it easier to align them. The soil does not necessarily contain clay; for clarity, we present the procedure for working on soil that does not have a layer of clay.

Floors on the ground: preparation and pouring

Clay.

Pour any clay with a layer thickness of at least 10 cm. It is leveled and watered generously with weak liquid glass(a solution of 1 part glass in 4 parts water). The wet layer is compacted with a piece of timber 200x200mmx1.5 m. large area You can use a vibratory rammer or vibratory compaction machine by renting it. If, as a result of compaction, the layer turns out to be thinner, clay is added and compacted again.

Advice: a durable tamper can be made from a cut channel (20x30 cm) by welding to it a piece of metal pipe into which sand is poured for weighting.

Clay is one of the layers of a concrete floor

The leveled, compacted clay layer is poured with cement milk (2 kg of cement is mixed in 10 liters of water) so that there are no puddles, and left for a day so that the process of chemical interaction of cement with liquid glass is completed completely. Walking on it at this time is not recommended.

Sand

Trying not to walk on the prepared clay layer, pour 15 cm of sand. You can walk on it. It is leveled and also compacted to the corresponding mark on the wall of the foundation of the house.

Crushed stone

It is poured onto sand and also carefully compacted with a tamper. The crushed stone in the corners is especially carefully leveled, compacting it tightly. The result should be a flat horizontal surface.

Polyethylene film

Uncut sleeves are laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm, placed on the walls by 3–5 cm. The overlaps are carefully taped. It is recommended to move around in shoes with soft soles, trying not to damage the film with sharp edges of pieces of crushed stone. Although experts say that this is just a technological technique, the film also performs its waterproofing functions.

Rough screed

For it, you can order ready-made “lean” concrete or make your own solution by mixing M500 cement with crushed stone and sand in a volumetric ratio of 1:4:3. Metal fiber is also added to the mixture in an amount of 1–1.5 kg per 1 m 3 of solution. The solution can be poured, leveling it along the beacons or along the marks on the foundation walls. It should be taken into account that a flat horizontal surface of the rough screed will simplify further stages of floor installation.

After two days, the concrete is reinforced with a mixture (10:1) of water with liquid glass and dry cement. They do it this way: using a roller or spray bottle, moisten the entire surface of the screed with the solution, then sprinkle thin layer dry cement and rub it with a trowel into the concrete. This technique will increase the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude and increase its resistance to water. The screed requires at least 1.5 months to fully mature, but subsequent work can be carried out after 1–2 weeks.

Waterproofing

The prepared rough screed is covered with liquid bitumen (primer), especially carefully coating the corners and covering 5 cm of the walls. On such a base treated with bitumen, strips of roofing material are glued with an overlap of 10 cm and an overlap of 5 cm on the walls. In places where they overlap, the strips are heated with a hairdryer or coated with bitumen mastic.

The stripes of the second layer are placed with a shift of half a strip in the same way. Roofing felt is glued especially carefully in the corners of the room. When performing this type of work, it is recommended to walk on the floor in shoes with soft soles.

Thermal insulation

The purpose of laying this layer is clear. The best material in in this case There will be extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) boards. A 5 cm thick sheet of this heat insulator in its effectiveness replaces expanded clay, poured in a layer of 70 cm. The material practically does not absorb water and has high compressive strength.

In order for EPS sheets to serve more efficiently, it is recommended to lay them in 2 layers, each of them 3 cm thick, shifting the joints by 1/3 or ½ of the sheets. This will completely eliminate cold bridges and improve the thermal insulation properties of the insulation. The joints of EPS boards in each layer should be taped with special tape.

If expanded clay or mineral wool is used as insulation, an additional layer of waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene film, will be required to protect the insulation from the moisture of the finishing screed.

Finish screed

Along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape of 1.5–2.0 cm is attached to the walls to cover the entire height of the screed. End damper tape fixed on insulation boards. The screed is reinforced with a 3mm masonry mesh with a cell size of 100x100. If you plan to install a warm electric floor, reflective waterproofing material is placed on the EPS sheets. When installing water heating circuits, the thickness of the screed will be required; the water heating pipes must be thicker than the screed.

The reinforcing mesh is positioned so that it is located in the screed and does not protrude onto its surface. To do this, use stands, pieces of wooden blocks, metal profiles or, for example, traffic jams from plastic bottles. The combination of reinforcement and leveling beacons is a rather complicated task, so it is recommended to pour the screed along the mark on the walls, and then pour a thin layer of self-leveling self-leveling floor over it.

For screeding, use ready-made dry mixtures or prepare a solution from washed river sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1. The work is done quickly. The screed will harden in 4–5 days, and its final readiness will be in a month. Application ready-made mixtures with special additives will speed up the maturation process of the screed. Check its readiness with a paper napkin, placing it on the floor and covering it with a sheet of polyethylene. If the napkin remains dry after 24 hours, the screed is ready for application of the self-leveling mixture and installation of finishing coatings.

Wooden floor on the ground on joists

In private homes, wooden floors are most often made. There are several reasons for this:

V frame houses wooden floor is a continuation general design building;
tree - natural material safe for the health and life of the residents of the house. Some types of wood have a beneficial effect on health;
wood is easy to process and lay even for those new to construction work;
treating wood with antiseptics significantly increases its service life;
floors are easy to repair and open if necessary.

Installing a wooden floor on the ground in a private house on the ground floor is quite feasible with your own hands. The floor can be insulated, communications can be hidden under it, basement. It is laid on logs, which can be mounted when tying a strip foundation.

Logs cut into two halves, bars with an aspect ratio of 1:1.5, and double thick boards of coniferous wood are used as lags. If the logs were not installed when tying the foundation, they can be laid on prepared soil or on brick columns on a concrete base.

The logs are placed at a distance determined by the thickness of the floorboard. So, if the board is 50 mm, the logs are installed every 100 cm, if the board is 35 mm, the logs are installed every 60 cm. The first and last logs are installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are placed between them. If the distance between the lags is slightly greater than required, then the number of lags is increased, but the outer ones are not moved. If the room is rectangular, the logs are laid lengthwise long wall. For a square room there is not much difference.

Installation of logs on the ground (cold floor without underground)

The work is performed in the following order:

They calculate to what depth the soil should be removed based on the thickness of the logs, layers of sand, crushed stone, clay or expanded clay.
They remove the completely fertile layer of soil and dig deeper, based on the calculated depth. The remaining soil is well leveled and compacted over the entire area of the future floor. It should be compacted using a tamper. On large areas You can use a vibrating machine to compact the soil.
Pour any sand in a layer of 15 cm or more and the same layer of crushed stone (or construction waste) and compact it. If the house is on clay soil, pour and compact a layer of clay, and then successively sand and crushed stone on it. If the soil is sandy, then you can add a layer of calcined sand or slag that has been aired for at least a year. You can add a layer of expanded clay. The thickness of all layers of filling should be approximately three times the height of the logs. All layers are carefully leveled and compacted.
Antiseptic-treated logs are installed on the leveled top layer (sand, slag or expanded clay), they are sunk into the bedding and compacted well around them. The upper level of the joists should be positioned so that the floor boards are in the desired position. The logs are attached to the foundation or lower crown.
Floor boards are installed along the joists.

Logs on brick posts (warm floor with underground)

Typically, logs are installed on posts stacked in 2 bricks (25x25 cm).

The fertile soil is removed, the remaining soil is leveled and compacted.
Mark the locations of the columns for the logs (in the event that the logs are not installed when tying the foundation). The height of the columns depends on which part of the wall the logs will rest on. This can be a beam of the first row or a grillage (beam covered with roofing felt for the foundation).
The cords are pulled so that they are located above the center of all planned columns, and pegs are driven into the ground from the cords at equal distances to the width of the brick columns (25 cm in each direction).

Bases for posts

In marked places, dig holes 40x40 cm in size and 15–25 cm deep on rocky or sandy soil and up to 45 cm on clay and loose soils. A 10 cm layer of sand and a 10 cm layer of coarse crushed stone are poured into deep holes in succession and compacted.

Advice: If the groundwater level is close, the holes can be filled with a 20–25 cm layer of clay and compacted (this is a clay castle).

The bottom of the pits is covered plastic film or roofing felt.
The concrete base under the brick pillars is poured so that it protrudes 5 cm above the level of the compacted soil. To do this, install formwork from boards (about 5 cm high above the ground) and reinforcement into the holes. As reinforcement, you can use wire or mesh with 10x10 cm cells.
Concrete is poured (cement: sand: crushed stone (fr. 5–10 mm) = 1:3:2–3 and water to a thick consistency) and left for several days to mature.

Making posts

Ruberoid is laid on the concrete base in 1-2 layers so that it protrudes beyond the edges by 1-2 cm.
Brick columns of 2 bricks are laid strictly vertically (plumb) on the roofing material in such a way that last layer bricks was perpendicular to the direction of the joists. To obtain a solution, mix M100 cement and sand in a volume ratio of 1:3 and add water by eye.
Ruberoid is placed on the post and a lining made of antiseptic-treated plywood or OSB boards square shape so that it protrudes 2 cm beyond their edges.

Installation and alignment of joists

Logs are installed on these pads. Leveling joists is a long and painstaking job. To do this, use linings or cut off part of the support. As a result, all logs should be at the same level.

Having been leveled, they are attached to the posts with corners, and to the elements of the walls or foundation - with special fastening systems used for the construction frame houses. Holes are pre-drilled in the concrete and dowels are inserted.

Floor installation

The last stage of the process is installing the floor.

For a floor with insulation, 30x50 or 50x50 mm bars are attached to the bottom of the joists, on which a subfloor made of thin unedged boards 20 mm thick is laid.
A vapor barrier (vapor barrier membrane) is laid on the subfloor.
Soft insulation is placed on the membrane ( mineral wool), so that its sheets fit tightly between the joists and tightly adjoin one another, not reaching about 2 cm from the top of the joists.
Floor boards are laid along the joists.