Do-it-yourself entrance door threshold in an apartment. How to make an entrance door threshold in an apartment on your own. Cement moisture-proof mixtures

Commercially available liquid coating mixtures are ready for use. When applying the material to partitions, you must carefully follow the attached instructions. The solution is applied manually with brushes or mechanical sprayers.

Dry waterproofing compounds are prepared by adding water in the proportions prescribed in the work manual. After intensive mixing, cover the walls of the room with the solution for exactly as long as indicated in the instructions, in small portions.

After applying the first coating layer to the primer, you need to wait for it to partially dry and apply the next one. The first and second layers must adhere to each other and provide high protective properties.

To increase the adhesion force between layers, you can use a plaster mesh, special tapes for connecting corners and protruding wall elements.

Procedure for working with roll coverings

When installing adhesive waterproofing of external facades, the protected surface is also primed with special solutions suitable for the specific roll product. The first layer of protective roll material is placed on the mastic layer by fusing or gluing.

Next, it is rolled with rollers for better contact and to get rid of air bubbles. The rolls are glued to each other with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The second rolling of the rolls is carried out in a direction perpendicular to the first.

Penetrating mixtures, advantages, applications

Roll or coating waterproofing of walls does not penetrate into the depths of the concrete structure and prevents remaining water vapor from escaping from the pores of the material.

Deep penetration insulating compounds are also available on the market. The ingredients included in their composition are absorbed into the depth of the concrete mass up to 40 cm. When interacting with the material, all microscopic cavities and cracks in the walls are filled, ensuring the durability of the protective film, comparable to the lifespan of concrete.

The main advantages of penetrating compounds are:

• application in underground and above-ground structures;
• application to wet materials;
• 100% waterproofing impermeability;
• a huge range of surface temperatures from - 30 to + 75 degrees;
• resistance of the protective layer to mechanical damage.

To spread the injection mass, use traditional manual method with help paint brushes. More even and dense layers of waterproofing are ensured by mechanized spraying using nozzles.

Features of protection against moisture of wood coatings

Waterproofing a wooden floor should be done as carefully and responsibly as possible, since improper treatment of the wood will lead to its rapid rotting and cracking. Waterproofing materials are selected according to their properties and parameters

Be sure to pay attention to the following:

• hypoallergenic;
• excellent moisture protection properties;
• low weight to avoid excessive loads on the foundation;
• ease of installation;
• durability and high strength indicators.

The following materials are suitable for all of the above parameters:

• bitumen;
• polyethylene film;
• PVC membrane;
• special solutions;
• isoplast;
• roofing felt;
• polymer.

All of them must be located on the subfloor. The choice of a particular material should depend on both the financial capabilities and the characteristics of the use of the premises. If the moisture protection technology is not sufficiently observed, then the entire work process, in most cases, will have to be carried out from the very first stage.

Wooden floor - perfect option for a private home. It looks aesthetically pleasing and is safe for health, but needs additional protection. In order for it to last longer and not lose its original appearance, you should carefully consider the choice of waterproofing method and select the right materials. Professionals who can do the work quickly and efficiently can help with this.

Features of popular waterproofing methods

Protecting floors from moisture can be done in different ways. After arranging the waterproofing, in most cases the floor is screeded, after which tiles, laminate or other covering are laid. There are several ways to carry out protective work:

Waterproofing of a bathroom using the pasting method

Pasting method of waterproofing

The material (roofing felt, glass roofing felt, roofing felt, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC film) is cut to the size of the room. Then the prepared parts are glued to the primed plane, overlapping or end-to-end; in the latter case, the seams must be welded or glued. Polymer multilayer membranes, which also have thermal insulation properties, are used. Which waterproofing is best for the floor is decided in each case individually.

Coating (painting) waterproofing

The most accessible and therefore widespread method. Bitumen, plaster mixtures, mastics (bitumen-polymer and bitumen-rubber), sealants and polymer varnishes are used as waterproofing. The base, cleared of debris and contaminants, is moistened and then treated with a primer to ensure better adhesion. Following the manufacturer's instructions, the mixture is prepared.

Floor waterproofing material is applied with a brush, roller or spatula; after 4-6 hours, lay the second layer; the final thickness does not exceed 2-20 mm. After finishing the work, the seams are sealed (places where the floor meets other surfaces and where pipes enter); Screeding and laying tiles can begin within a day.

Completed painted bathroom insulation

Coating waterproofing is applied to any surface and is easy to process. hard to reach places. It is considered a quick method; but over time, cracks may appear on the surface of the bitumen or polymer coating.

Backfill waterproofing

This method is suitable for protecting the floor of wet rooms. Formwork is mounted on the base. Are being added bulk materials(concrete, hydrophobic powders, perlite sand or ash, asphalt insulation).

Under the influence of water, the granular mixture is evenly distributed and acquires the consistency of a gel, becoming a barrier to further spread of moisture. The thickness of such waterproofing can reach up to 50 cm.

Plaster waterproofing

Plaster materials for floor waterproofing have an important advantage - at 0⁰C they do not lose their properties and do not form cracks (like bitumen, for example). Plaster waterproofing is easy to use and environmentally friendly. The mixtures contain cement, gypsum, mineral and polymer additives, which make the elastic layer resistant to strong temperature fluctuations (from -20 ° C to +50 ° C).

Preparing the floor for waterproofing

This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about.

The surface is treated by applying 2 (less often 3) layers. The layers are applied in directions perpendicular to each other.

Molded floor waterproofing

For filling, solutions and waterproof mastics are used, consisting of a plastic base with additives. Polymers, bitumen, resins, liquid rubber, and plasticizers are used as additives.

An unusual protection option - 3D self-leveling floor on video:

The material is distributed over the primed concrete base in two ways - hot or cold, in several stages. Then the surface is dried with hot air (gas burner, IR radiation). For additional reliability, the layer is reinforced with fiberglass or metal mesh. The thickness of the finished film is from 5 to 15 cm.

Impregnating (penetrating) waterproofing

For protection, solutions of concrete, concrete-polymer or cement composition with chemically active additives (polymers, salts of alkali and alkaline earth metals). This composition is able to penetrate deep into the concrete surface (some 50-60 cm), making it waterproof. You can immediately lay ceramic tiles on top of the waterproofing.

Waterproofing of wooden floors, joists (beams for flooring)

Log ends

If we talk about the moisture resistance of a wooden house, Special attention should be given to the ends of the logs, since it is in this direction that the penetration of moisture into the wood occurs especially intensively. . Unprotected ends are dangerous because they lead to cracking and even longitudinal deformation logs (due to different rates of moisture release in the longitudinal and transverse directions)

Unprotected ends are dangerous because they lead to cracking and even longitudinal deformation of logs (due to different rates of moisture release in the longitudinal and transverse directions).

It must be said that this vulnerability of wooden houses was noticed a very long time ago, so the “technical process” of assembling a log house always included operations to seal the ends in one way or another.

In the minimal version, the end of the log was trimmed with an ax in the transverse direction, which created a fairly effective resin-fiber sealing. At the maximum, all ends were covered with wax or lime compounds.

Today, such sealing is performed with special colorless compounds that create a reliable vapor-permeable film (for example, REMMERS Induline SW-910).

The technology for applying such sealants is simple:

• grinding of the protected surface;
• dust removal, drying;
• Application by brush or spray (no need for primer).

Protective compounds of this type can also be used for other surfaces (not only for the ends).

Despite the technological simplicity, end sealing should be carried out taking into account the type of wood, the degree of its aging, and also “with an eye” for signs of infection by fungus or mold, therefore, for the optimal selection of materials and application methods, we recommend contacting the technical department of our company.

When additional moisture protection is needed

There are several situations when wooden elements log or timber house need additional protection from moisture. Moreover, waterproofing in wooden architecture sometimes means completely different technologies.

But before we consider each of them, let us recall that wood by its nature is a porous material capable of absorbing and releasing moisture. If no measures are taken, this feature leads to several unpleasant consequences:

• changes in linear and volumetric dimensions, as well as cracking of logs;
• reducing resistance to biological damage (mold, fungus, rotting, woodworms, etc.);
• reduction in mechanical strength.

In the vast majority of cases, the need for major repairs of log houses and beams is caused precisely by the high susceptibility of wood to moisture.

In this connection, almost any wooden house project today is accompanied by detailed planning of measures for additional sealing and moisture insulation of the most critical elements of the building structure.

By by and large, all wooden parts in contact with the outdoor environment or used in rooms with large differences in humidity (bathrooms, baths and saunas, swimming pools) must undergo additional treatment. But since total processing of all logs and boards is too expensive, this technique is used specifically for a limited number of building components of the house.

Let's consider which elements of wooden houses most need additional moisture insulation, and what materials are needed to carry it out.

Waterproofing the first floor floor

Now we will look at the activities that precede the construction of the screed. In the case of a building without a basement, this will be waterproofing the floor of the living space; in the case where the house has a basement, this will be insulation of the basement floor.

After completing the appropriate damping fill or substrate, we proceed to the main work of waterproofing the floor before screeding.

Various materials are used for this:

• construction polyethylene films;
• PVC membranes;
• roofing felt;
• bitumen-polymer roll products;
• polyisobutylene;
• hydroisol, etc.

The choice of a specific material does not change the principle of work. Let's just say that traditional polyethylene films are the cheapest and simplest method of waterproofing, however, membranes and bitumen-polymer materials, as well as other modern insulating carpets and coatings have better characteristics and performance qualities, but are much higher than polyethylene in cost and complexity of installation.

Roll materials are carefully glued

The rolled material is laid on sand. The individual strips are carefully welded or glued together; in the case of polyethylene, tape is used. The polyethylene film should be 200 - 300 microns thick, it is better to use two layers with overlapping seams. The overlap of the strips should be at least 10 - 15 centimeters. In the case of using various modern diffusion membranes or other coatings, installation should be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, since for different materials Installation conditions may vary greatly.

If a rough screed or “lean concrete” is not used, then when installing a reinforcing frame on the film, care should be taken to provide linings that will not allow the reinforcing elements to pierce the coating. However, a more practical solution would be to build a layer of “lean” concrete 6–7 cm thick from a regular cement-sand mixture with fine crushed stone, which is also covered with roofing felt or membrane on top.

The rough screed is also covered with waterproofing

Next, a reinforced frame is laid on the rough layer and a finishing screed is performed. The rough screed can be treated with bitumen or bitumen-polymer mastic, and a layer of extruded polystyrene foam or dense foam can be laid on top for insulation.

The essence and initial stage of installing a waterproofing layer

The safety of most materials included in the construction of floor coverings depends on how well the waterproofing is done.

Particular attention should be paid to those cases when waterproofing the floor in a wooden house is carried out, since wood does not tolerate moisture well.

The effectiveness also depends on the quality of waterproofing. thermal insulation materials and safety various coatings from the formation of fungus or mold on them. Naturally, in the photo and with visual inspection such formations will not be visible, but in the end they will manifest themselves as various odors, dampness inside the room, etc.

Frame houses have a rather complex floor structure, so before laying waterproofing materials it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

We are talking about the following stages:

1. Creation of high-quality foundation insulation.
2. Arrangement of effective ventilation of the floor structure.
3. Laying a high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier layer on the first floor of the house.

When choosing a waterproofing material, the following features must be taken into account:

• the use of fire hazardous materials in combination with wooden floors is unacceptable;
• the material must be of such dimensions that there is a ventilation gap between the rough base and the floor covering;
• Only insulators made of water-repellent materials can be laid on a rough concrete floor: roofing felt, polyethylene, etc.;
• If you are waterproofing floor joists or wooden flooring, then it is best to use liquid water-repellent mixtures with an antiseptic effect.

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to carry out maximum treatment in the rooms under which the ground floor is located: basement, ground floor or bathhouse.

The maximum impact of moisture is in the basement. In this case, first of all, waterproofing is installed on the ground floor in order to maximally protect the first floor of the house from moisture penetration with subsequent negative effects on the floors.

Materials for foundation waterproofing

An important question when protecting the foundation of a house is how much does it cost to waterproof the foundation?

This depends on several factors: the area of ​​the surface being treated and the quality of the waterproofing materials. The cheapest material is bitumen, it retains moisture well and is very easy to use; the material itself does not decompose upon contact with water. Waterproofing the foundation with bitumen is easy to do with your own hands.

In case of high soil moisture and close proximity groundwater for the foundation of the house, it is necessary to additionally purchase coating, roll and penetrating materials, and also calculate the cost of work on the construction of drainage.

Inexpensive materials for foundation waterproofing are waterproofing impregnation deep penetration and waterproofing plaster. These materials are not used as a primary insulator.

The purpose of impregnation is to fill cracks in concrete, which in turn prevents water from penetrating into the foundation, provides frost resistance and prevents corrosion.

Plaster serves more to improve the qualities of the insulating material, because it contains special additives and plasticizers. Plaster is used not only as a decorative coating, but also to extend the service life of the main insulator.

Roll insulators the most common method of waterproofing a foundation. There are insulators with an already glued layer of bitumen, which must be heated with a burner, and those that require an additional adhesive layer.

In comparison with roofing felt, roll insulators are significantly superior.

They are more resistant to moisture, do not fade in the sun, are more flexible and are able to take the shape of the surface they are designed to protect, as a result of which they are less susceptible to mechanical damage.

Rubber insulation is the most reliable, durable, but also the most expensive method of foundation waterproofing.

is poured onto the entire surface of the foundation and provides reliable connection with base.

This type of insulation usually requires special tools, but you can do it yourself. Using a roller, liquid rubber is applied to the primed surface. The number of layers and drying depends on the manufacturer of the material.

Waterproofing walls with impregnation

Today there are many wood impregnations that fill microcracks in wood and cover the logs of the house with a waterproof film. Wherein appearance the tree will not change.

One of these impregnations can be called liquid glass. This impregnation has long been used as a waterproofing agent. It is sold in all large construction stores. It has a light gray or yellow. By covering the logs with such material, you can be sure that they will no longer be afraid of moisture.

Do not forget that no matter how strong and reliable the waterproofing of the walls is. Without it it makes no sense. So any protection against moisture must begin with the foundation and plinth of the building and only then move on to the walls.

It is not recommended to cash out a building without first waterproofing the walls.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wall waterproofing you choose, what matters is what material you use. From quality material and the plus of conscientious work depends entirely on the result obtained

It is better to entrust such work to professional companies, but with a little diligence and labor, you can do such installation yourself.

General principles of substrate organization

Regardless of whether a strip recessed foundation with a basement will be used or a rough floor screed will rest on the ground, it is necessary to organize a substrate or bedding, i.e. a layer that will serve as a barrier to moisture rising from the ground, and also serve as thermal insulation.

Water tends to spread vertically through the smallest capillaries existing in the soil. If the cross-sectional dimensions of these capillaries are increased to sizes exceeding 0.5 mm, then such propagation becomes more difficult. Thus, to organize an effective barrier, we need to create a layer with significant air pockets and gaps that moisture located in the soil cannot overcome. This layer will also prevent the floor from freezing, which can occur in direct contact with the soil.

For the substrate, coarse crushed stone is used, sometimes the bottom layer is covered with cobblestones. The crushed stone must be at least 30 - 50 mm thick, and its layer must be at least 10 cm. After backfilling, the crushed stone is carefully compacted using rollers or vibration units.

First add crushed stone

Then river or quarry sand is poured onto the crushed stone layer in a layer of 7–10 cm, which is also compacted using a special tool. How well the bedding layers are laid and compacted will determine their water-repellent ability and load-bearing qualities, which will affect the integrity of the subsequent concrete screed.

Sometimes a layer of fine gravel is poured onto the sand and sealed with liquid cement mortar. This is done in places where the groundwater level is too high.

Crushed stone is covered with sand

A substrate of large crushed stone or cobblestone creates a layer in which there are no small capillaries; instead, there is a large number of volumetric air gaps or pockets, which water cannot overcome by capillary propagation. If the groundwater does not rise high, the substrate may include a layer of expanded clay, which will act as an excellent insulation.

Sometimes expanded clay is used as insulation

Sometimes measures are required to increase the waterproofing properties of the substrate. If, based on groundwater level measurements and soil analysis, a decision is made to carry out additional waterproofing measures, then the layers of sand and crushed stone are impregnated with bitumen or special polymer compounds, a rough screed must be made and treated with mastics or penetrating waterproofing. Various materials are also often combined.

What is vertical type waterproofing?

Vertical moisture protection is suitable for both an already built home and one that is under construction. Such waterproofing refers to the treatment of foundation walls with special compounds or materials.

It is performed with bitumen mastic, plaster mixture, liquid rubber, ordinary clay, penetrating solutions.

Vertical foundation waterproofing

Most often, bitumen mastic is used to protect the foundation of a built house from moisture. It is inexpensive and at the same time has excellent waterproofing potential. The principle of performing work with its help is given below:

• buy a piece of bitumen;
• in some container, heat it to a liquid state;
• treat the foundation with the resulting solution (usually bitumen mastic is applied 3-4 times).

The composition will penetrate into all existing gaps and smallest cracks in the structure and will become a good barrier to moisture seeking to penetrate into a residential building.

Bitumen mastic is also sold in finished form. It's even easier to work with. As a rule, the finished composition does not require additional heating. And such mastic is applied not 3-4 times, but in a maximum of two layers.

Important! Every 5–7 years, the foundation must be re-treated with a bitumen compound. . Penetrating solutions for moisture protection - Penetron, Aquatro and others - have greater durability.

They should be applied to a dust-free foundation (in addition, it should be slightly moistened before direct use of the penetrating composition). The solution impregnates the base structure to a depth of 12–15 cm and effectively protects it from moisture.

Penetrating solutions for moisture protection - Penetron, Aquatro and others - have greater durability. They should be applied to a dust-free foundation (in addition, it should be slightly moistened before direct use of the penetrating composition). The solution impregnates the base structure to a depth of 12–15 cm and effectively protects it from moisture.

Penetrating insulation is not yet very common in our country due to its novelty and fairly high cost. At the same time, it protects foundations from water much better than the bitumen mastic familiar to domestic craftsmen.

What to do if groundwater levels rise

Protection when elevated level water

Compared to the previous problem, this one may cause more trouble and require more serious investments. The way out in this case will be reliable drainage and water reduction. If the foundation is exposed to pressure, it is necessary to isolate not only the base, but also repair the basement.

In addition to strengthening the insulation on the outside, additional measures will be required on the inner edge of the walls. In this case, caissons are often installed, but construction can begin only after preventing the penetration of moisture to the foundation, done in one of the following ways:

• rolled materials with additional protection (for example, the construction of brick walls around the perimeter of the supporting part of the building);
• diffusion membranes (you need to choose those that have a perforated surface, they are designed for vertical protection);
• penetrating compounds;
• injection.

The most reliable, but extremely expensive method would be to repair it by cladding the walls from the inside with steel.

For work, sheets with a thickness of 4-6 mm are taken.

The most reliable basement protection

First, they are cut out and fixed on the surface of the floor and walls (on vertical structures they should be placed just above the groundwater level). The sheets are fastened together by welding. To the floor and walls - using special anchors. They are hammered so that a small space remains between the protected surface and the steel sheet, which is filled with cement mortar through the holes in the sheets. After completion of the work, these holes are closed with steel plates by welding.

Insulation methods

The following waterproofing methods are distinguished. First of all, this is the use of special additives and a higher grade of concrete at the stage of making the solution. This waterproofing of the foundation with your own hands is impossible, since it is necessary to comply with certain proportions and production technology.

The second method is to cover the monolith with coating, pasting or plastering materials. They are not afraid of moisture and create a barrier that prevents it from penetrating into the structure.

Before properly waterproofing the foundation, you need to select the highest quality materials.

Bitumen compounds

The coating device for foundation waterproofing is the use of bitumen, polymer mastics, emulsions, and solutions. These compounds penetrate into all pores, crevices and cracks of the concrete base and prevent moisture from destroying the structure.

The base of the foundation is dug in from the outside. The width of the trench is at least 1 m. The base of the foundation should rise by half a meter, respectively, the depth of the pit should be below it. What are these sizes for? This will allow you to set the maximum effective system drainage and increase the service life of waterproofing by 2 times.

Then all defects on the foundation surface (irregularities, crevices, cracks between blocks) are removed using cement mortar.

After this, the surface is treated with a special primer mixture: it will improve the adhesion of the mastic to the concrete base.

Coating-type mastic compositions are diluted with water in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. The resulting solution is used to treat the foundation twice, allowing each layer to dry completely. They are applied, like paint, using a brush, roller or spray. It is necessary to ensure continuity of the applied material.

Instead of ready-made mastic, you can use bitumen in the form of a bar. It is heated in a container until liquid state and apply in layers (2-4 times).

Depending on the depth of the base, you can calculate the thickness of the waterproofing. The base of the foundation is located at a depth of up to 2 m - the waterproofing layer is 2 mm thick, up to 5 m - the insulation size is up to 6 mm. You can measure a fresh layer using a disk, a comb, dried material - a universal thickness gauge.

Such waterproofing can be done even by a person who is little familiar with this type of work.

Pasted waterproofing materials

The methods provide the most complete protection of the foundation. The most popular material is considered to be roofing felt. It is affordable and its service life is up to 60 years. The downside is that it is unlikely that you will be able to carry out waterproofing without an assistant.

The scheme for installing adhesive waterproofing consists of three stages.

Stage 1 – preparation. They begin work by excavating the foundation, cleaning it, and removing protruding parts. Then the surface is leveled with cement-sand mortar. After this, the base walls are treated with a primer.

Stage 2 – preparation of the waterproofing material. The roll is unrolled and left to level for a day. The foundation walls are treated with mastic mortar.

Stage 3 – laying roofing felt. Installation is carried out from top to bottom. The overlap of the strips should be 10-15 cm.

The surface of each strip, gradually unwinding, is treated on one side with a torch and pressed tightly against the foundation wall using special rollers. The formation of air bubbles must be avoided. As soon as one layer hardens, you can fuse the next one.
A transition fillet is created in the lower part of the foundation (ebb at an angle of 45°). Roofing felt is also fused onto it. Then they do the backsprinkling.

Work on insulating foundations using rolled materials must be carried out in dry, windless weather and above-zero ambient temperatures.

Properly carried out waterproofing is a sure way to preserve a structure and extend its service life.

What does protecting the subfloor from moisture include?

Waterproofing a wooden subfloor is a set of works that are performed with one purpose - to protect the interior from moisture and dampness. Wooden materials, along with numerous advantages, have a significant drawback - the need for protection from rapid destruction under the influence of moisture. The process of working in a wooden house includes the following:

• ensuring foundation protection;
• waterproofing the subfloor on the first floor;
• Carrying out work to ventilate all floors.

Waterproofing a subfloor is a protection against moisture for a continuous type of flooring made of wooden planks or concrete slabs. There must be ventilation in the space between the rough and finished floor. Today there are quite a lot of materials to ensure good waterproofing, so you need to choose from them, focusing not only on cost, but also on technical characteristics. It is worth considering that wood species - flammable material, therefore fire hazardous elements are undesirable for waterproofing.

In a wooden house, installing waterproofing on the subfloor is not only desirable, but mandatory. For concrete floors, materials that do not allow moisture to pass through are used - this can be a polyethylene film or roofing felt. The subfloor option - boards - requires treatment with building compounds, such as bitumen-based varnishes or those containing polymers.

External side of the walls

Was and became, siding

A normal, well-built house made of timber or logs does not need additional thermal protection or waterproofing. The need to seal walls usually arises when the building is already old, with a large number of cracks and gaps.

In such cases, it is more profitable to insulate the house with siding finishes than to constantly deal with caulking cracks.

The most universal insulation method involves the following steps:

• frame installation;
• laying insulation in combination with vapor barrier and waterproofing;
• siding covering.

IN in this case Rolled waterproofing is used, laid on top of the insulating material.

Please note that for normal functioning film waterproofing, there should be a small ventilation gap between the membrane and the siding. . In some cases, the need for additional waterproofing of walls in houses made of timber or logs may also arise in relatively new buildings (for example, if they are located in rainy climatic areas with strong wind loads on the walls)

In some cases, the need for additional waterproofing of walls in houses made of timber or logs may also arise in relatively new buildings (for example, if they are located in rainy climatic areas with strong wind loads on the walls).

This is manifested by the fact that when it rains, the walls inside the room “cry”, despite the normal condition of the caulking.

Polymer seam

There are several solutions to this problem:

• impregnation of existing caulk hydrophobic compounds performed without replacing the seal (done outside the walls);
• installation of a polymer version of the inter-crown seal, the top layer of which ensures almost complete sealing of the wall.

Choice the best way Waterproofing walls must be carried out taking into account factors such as the condition of the logs, the degree of their drying, as well as the compositions previously used for painting or impregnation.

To avoid mistakes, we recommend entrusting such work only to qualified specialists. More detailed advice on the choice of waterproofing technology for a specific condition of the log house can be obtained from our technical department.

Types of waterproofing by method of application

Depending on the method of application, the following types of waterproofing are distinguished:

• pasting,
• coating,
• plastering

Pasted waterproofing

Nowadays, instead of bitumen, Technonikol sheets are increasingly used. In this case, the adhesive waterproofing will consist of moisture-proof multilayer membranes with a density of up to 5 mm. Such membranes are bitumen self-adhesive polymer-cement films, which have long been used to protect brick and reinforced concrete structures.

Membranes are easy to apply to the foundation: they are heated over gas burner and press tightly against the wall, while the film is leveled with a roller. They cope well with cracks and moisture, but require additional pressure walls or screeds. The use of membranes does not allow achieving the same High Quality waterproofing, as when protecting the foundation with bitumen. Since such adhesive waterproofing does not allow filling small pores.

In addition to Technicol sheets, other lining materials can be used, the choice of which is very diverse. They differ in quality characteristics and accordingly at cost. For example, traditional roofing felt, glassine and roofing felt are being replaced by newer materials that are reinforced with polyester.

Coating waterproofing

This type of waterproofing can act as both primary and additional protection for the foundation. Coating waterproofing is a 3-4 mm coating that is applied to the base of the foundation. Depending on the composition, such waterproofing can be elastic or rigid.

For creating coating waterproofing A variety of polymer solutions and bitumen-polymer mastics are used, which can be applied cold or hot. These compounds are applied using a spatula, paint floats or sprayer.

Plaster waterproofing

This type of foundation waterproofing involves applying several layers of mortar up to 22 mm thick. Often, a mineral-cement mortar is used with the addition of special materials to increase the moisture resistance of the waterproofing layer. Such additives can be asphalt mastics, polymer concrete, hydraulic concrete and others.

Thanks to the plaster waterproofing, the building is perfectly protected from capillary absorption of moisture. But in this case, cracks can appear much faster, so plaster waterproofing apply only by hot method. The selected material should be applied in several layers.

Having installed waterproofing around the entire perimeter of the foundation, it is necessary to fill the foundation pit with rich clay, which will act as an additional waterproofing material.

Waterproofing the foundation is a responsible undertaking. If you decide to do all the work yourself, remember that the key to success will be correct selection waterproofing materials and compliance with the sequence of work. In this case, the foundation of your house will last a long time and will not require repair costs.

What types of waterproofing are there for the walls of a wooden house?

When constructing wooden buildings, several different types of waterproofing are used, including:

• coating or its variety - painting;
• pasting;
• asphalt;
• tough.

Coating waterproofing of wooden walls is carried out using mortars, using bitumen or emulsions as a base and containing special fillers and additives. This coating is applied to the inner or outer surface of the walls in a single layer about 5 mm thick. Its variety, paint-based waterproofing, is produced using special liquid or plastic compounds applied sequentially in three layers, the coating thickness is 0.5-0.7 mm. When choosing this type of insulation, it should be borne in mind that coating and painting waterproofing protect the surface of wooden walls only from the penetration of capillary moisture, that is, they cope with their protective function in the absence of hydrostatic pressure.

Pasted waterproofing is made using rolled materials, which are mounted using mastic. Most often, Isol, roofing felt, hydroisol, etc. are used as lining insulating materials. The material is fixed using hot and cold mastics. Before applying a layer of mastic to the surface, experts advise applying a layer of primer. Most often, the surface is glued on the hydrostatic pressure side. Waterproofing material can be laid in several layers, depending on the strength of the hydrostatic pressure and the humidity category.

Pasted waterproofing is carried out using rolled insulating materials

Asphalt waterproofing is made by laying a solid layer of asphalt mass with a layer thickness of up to one and a half centimeters. This coating can be applied to both horizontal and inclined surfaces in the basements of wooden houses. Asphalt waterproofing is available in two varieties: hot and cold. Hot mastics are more durable, but their cost is significantly higher than cold ones. The waterproofing properties of hot asphalt appear after it cools, and of cold asphalt - after it dries.

The most labor-intensive way to protect a wooden house from moisture is rigid waterproofing. The protective coating is made in the form of a layer of plaster consisting of cement and sand, which is applied first to the walls and floor of the basement, and then to the floor in the house itself. For such insulation, it is best to choose waterproof cement that does not shrink. In addition, Portland cement, which contains sealants, is often used in waterproofing work. Rigid waterproofing is the most reliable protection against moisture for wooden buildings.

All these waterproofing methods are used for both floors and walls in a wooden house. High-quality waterproofing will protect wooden building from the destructive effects of moisture, the occurrence of fungus and mold and will significantly extend the life of the house. It should be borne in mind that along with the external waterproofing of a wooden building, it is also necessary to take care of protection from moisture internal space. Internal waterproofing of wooden walls is carried out by treating their surface with special sealants

When treating the wall surface with such a waterproof sealant, special attention should be paid to the seams and joints of the logs.

Waterproofing with plaster will reliably protect the walls of the building from moisture

When choosing the type of waterproofing coating for wooden walls, first of all, pay attention to what kind of external and internal cosmetic finishing the house will have. If you plan to preserve the natural appearance of the tree as much as possible, optimal choice There will be paint waterproofing. The adhesive insulation needs additional protection from the outside before finishing work on the building.

Wooden houses can be erected on any foundation, except brick pillars. The initial work before installing the insulating layers is as follows:

1. The rough base is cleaned and rotten or deformed joists are replaced (read also: “Replacing floors in a wooden house with a concrete screed”).
2. All wooden structural elements are treated with an antiseptic.
3. The log walls and base are separated using waterproofing bitumen mastic.
4. You can reduce thermal energy losses by laying polystyrene foam boards under the joists on the base.
5. To prevent moisture from accumulating on the basement floor, it is necessary to create ventilation holes.

From all of the above, we can conclude that the waterproofing layer is very important and is not as easy to install as it might seem. The floor will be reliably protected from moisture only if effective waterproofing materials are used.

It is important to follow the installation instructions provided to ensure guaranteed results. You can always contact specialists who will take responsibility for all stages of work - from purchasing the necessary materials to laying each layer and putting the floors into operation

There are cases when the gaps throughout the floor are approximately the same width. They arise due to the use of wet boards for flooring; this is a gross defect of the builders. If you have such a situation, then there is a simple and original way out. Recently, so-called deck floors have come into fashion.

Real larch deck floor

Their main difference is the dark stripes between the floor boards. Modern materials and technologies make it possible to simultaneously waterproof and create a unique coating.

1. Buy sealant in a dark, contrasting color; black will do. Please note that it has high waterproofing properties. In this example, KiiltoFix Masa and Parquet oil is used
2. Fill the seams with it. While the material is still wet, remove excess with a spatula. Filling joints with sealant

   Seam filling process

   Removing excess with a spatula

3. After complete hardening, sand the floor with special sanding machines. Clean the surface from dust. Surface grinding
4. Apply a waterproof varnish to your wood floor interior work. It must be coated at least twice; the varnish must be specifically for wooden floors. Such materials have a fairly high ductility, which prevents the appearance of cracks on the floor due to changes in the linear dimensions of the wood.

Application of waterproof varnish

Simple and pretty cheap technology makes it possible to have a waterproofed wooden floor in a designer design.

Wooden houses are built on any type of foundation, with the exception of columnar foundations. Therefore, waterproofing the base is necessary for all buildings without exception. Before applying a protective compound or winding, you must:

• clean the subfloor and repair damaged parts of the structure;
• saturate all wooden elements with an antiseptic composition;
• treat the distance between the base and the crowns with mastic or water-repellent paint;
• Ventilation must be provided in the ceiling.

Waterproofing floors and ceilings is not an easy procedure. To protect wooden structures from moisture and pests, an integrated approach is needed. Regular wrapping with waterproofing film will not be enough. A floor protection cake must include all components, including a vapor barrier. There is no point in saving on these films, because often the cause of rot on joists is not moisture from the ground, but condensation that forms inside the ceiling.

• DIY self-leveling floors
• PVC floor tiles
• How to make dry floor screed with your own hands

Classification by method of application

According to the method of application, wall waterproofing is divided into coating And pasting.

Coating waterproofing of the wall is carried out by applying it to concrete or brick. liquid formulations(manual or mechanized), and is produced using the following materials:

• Bitumen mastics;
• Cement mixtures;
• Polymer masses;
• Sealing pastes.

Pasted waterproofing of walls is carried out using rolled moisture-proof materials, glued to surfaces in places of contact with water with special adhesive components.

Application of liquid, moisture-protective masses is more profitable than pasting with roll protective materials. Coating solutions come into close contact with the surface of the building mass, fill all unevenness and roughness, and penetrate into the structure being protected, providing reliable protection against moisture ingress.

The listed products are used to protect external and interior walls Houses.

1. Bitumen mastics for waterproofing walls

Bitumen mastic is made by mixing various bitumens with fillers: talc, lime. Bitumen-polymer pastes are produced by combining bitumen with polymer substances and synthetic resins. The materials adhere firmly to the surface being coated.

The quality of the composition is improved by additives:

• plasticizers;
• rubbers;
• sealants.

All of them have high moisture-proof properties. The disadvantages of bitumen mixtures include a short service life and destruction from exposure to negative temperatures.

The latest bitumen compositions can be used to coat the walls of a house when cold. Experts recommend using:

• Quelud "Stop Water" - universal use for all materials, bathrooms, outside foundations. It is carried out by covering with layers of a paste-like mixture;
• Aquaizol - insulation protects the walls of the foundations and basements of the house from moisture;
• Ceresit CL - plastic, polymer mass for waterproofing walls from the inside under facing tiles;
• MBU bitumen mastic based on a combination of petroleum bitumen. This black viscous mass combines the properties of cold and hot resins. It has a wide range of applications, including for waterproof coatings of external foundation walls.

2. Cement moisture-proof mixtures

Cement waterproofing of walls is prepared on the basis of: Portland cement, minerals, polymer additives and resins. The latter improve the plasticity of cement mastics. Cement is responsible for a high degree of adhesion to the protected wall surface.

The best cement mixtures:

• Ceresit CR-65 - for installing dense sealed layers of wall waterproofing. Provides protection for external and internal parts buildings buried in the ground;
• KREISEL 810 – dry mortar. It is used for waterproofing vertical enclosing walls in rooms with excessive humidity.

3. Polymer components

Polymer resins are a relatively new type of coating insulation. They are made from high molecular weight compounds using various synthetic modifiers and plasticizers.

These components provide a strong connection to the structure being treated and 100% protection of the walls from water. Non-combustible materials provide protection of structures from fire.

• Krasko Hydropan is a universal polymer mass based on acrylic resin. The main use is for insulating internal partitions and walls of rooms when laying ceramic tiles;
• mastic No. 11 Petromast - moisture-proof composition for the protection of retaining walls and foundations;
• Waterproofing Ceresit CL51 is an elastic substance that creates a seamless waterproof coating on the surface of structures.

4. Sealing pastes

When sealants are added to bituminous mastics, compositions are obtained that are used for long-term preservation of the solidity of concrete structures. They are applied only to concrete. The use of sealing pastes for porous materials, such as brick, is unacceptable due to the high consumption of the protective substance.

Liquid solutions with the addition of sealing components are divided into superficial And penetrating.

Surface mixtures of Disperbit and IsobitAl on the edges of enclosing walls form protective film excluding contact with water.

The most effective penetrating mixtures:

• Penetron Admix - effective penetrating waterproofing of walls made in America;
• Osmosil is an Italian-made waterproofing that is deeply absorbed into walls;

Creating a water barrier for a wooden floor

In the case of frame-panel construction, the construction of a wooden house or a house made of timber, a concrete screed is not made. Typically, the floor is raised on columnar supports, which are constructed from brick or concrete poured into formwork. These supports are treated with coating waterproofing on all sides, and the upper ends are covered with roofing felt or other rolled material, preferably in several layers.

Pillars can be coated with bitumen mastic

Next, logs are laid on the pillars, and the installation of the subfloor begins. To do this, you can use moisture-resistant plywood impregnated with special water-repellent compounds. Often plywood is nailed under the joists, then covered with a layer of polyethylene or a rubber membrane.

Plywood is covered with a membrane

The coating must be airtight, the strips are glued together with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm. Insulation is laid on top, which is covered with a vapor barrier (in the case of mineral wool). Next, a rough plank floor is installed on the joists, which is also covered plastic film or a membrane with an outlet on the walls of 15 - 20 cm.

A plank subfloor is installed on top

This waterproofing is quite sufficient, and you can proceed to finishing floor. In places with high humidity - kitchen, bathroom and toilet - you should use moisture-resistant coatings or lightweight self-leveling floors treated with waterproofing materials. Self-leveling floors can be used for bathrooms and kitchens.

Foundation waterproofing

The foundation determines the integrity of the entire structure, so its protection from the effects of moisture in the form of precipitation, hydrostatic backwater and capillary rise of groundwater, as well as seasonal perched water, must be especially reliable.

The type of waterproofing should be selected depending on specific conditions - lithological composition and physical and mechanical properties soil, as well as hydrogeological conditions.

To protect the foundation, coating, pasting, impregnation or mounted waterproofing can be used.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to install a drainage system that allows maximum protection of the foundation from moisture and saline solutions.

In the presence of aggressive groundwater, the use of materials of increased strength is required. From the penetration of surface water, which exists in any region and on any site, a blind area is always made during construction.

Coating waterproofing of the foundation

This option is considered the most economical, but not the most durable, since during operation the waterproofing is damaged and leaks, unable to withstand shearing loads.

For coating, various mastics are used based on bitumen and synthetic resins (rubber) with the addition of cement to increase adhesion to concrete, as well as plasticizing additives that increase resistance to cracking, and polymers to increase durability and stability of hydrophobic properties.

Pasted waterproofing of the foundation

In this case it is used roll material- both weld-on and self-adhesive. The foundation requires the application of two or more layers of insulation.

Roofing felt is widely used as a material, and less often roofing felt.

Fiberglass-reinforced materials with improved mechanical strength and elongation characteristics are also used - hydroisol, hydrostekloizol, stekloizol, rubitex, glass elast.

Impregnating or penetrating waterproofing of foundations

The layer of impregnating insulation on the surface of the foundation should be 1-3 mm. Due to its properties, such waterproofing blocks almost all capillary channels in concrete and makes it very resistant to moisture.

However, due to the low ductility of the material, during deformation and vibration to which the foundation may be subjected, the integrity of the protective layer is destroyed.

Mounted foundation waterproofing

Most cheap way mounted waterproofing - the use of buffer layers of compacted clay and mats of bentonite clay made of self-destructing fastening layers of geotextiles, cardboard and an inner layer of clay during operation.

But if funds allow, it is better to use polymer geomembranes in the form of a studded fabric with a textile filter, which eliminates the possibility of silting of the drainage channels of the system formed by the studs.

Coating waterproofing of wooden walls

Coating waterproofing - applying waterproofing materials to a vertical or horizontal surface. Often these are mastics consisting of binders and filler. These materials are able to withstand low and high (up to +500°C) temperatures without cracking, thanks to chemical elements, protecting against this process.

Mastics are also used as an independent construction material, and in combination with other means of protection, for example, insulation.

Based on the method of application, waterproofing of this type is divided into hot and cold application. The basis of cold application compositions is solvent or water, the percentage of bitumen-containing substances is approximately 70%. The main advantages of such waterproofing are fire safety, lack of need preliminary preparation surfaces, can be used indoors.

Solutions for hot use require preliminary preparatory work. Their advantages are low cost, no seams, quick setting and hardening.

The insulating composition must be heated strictly according to the instructions, otherwise its characteristics will not meet regulatory requirements.

The most reliable are cold epoxy-rubber and hot bitumen-polymer coatings.

The general advantages of coating waterproofing are the ability to carry out work in spots or in sections, and to treat surfaces of the most complex configuration.

A few general rules

Waterproofing composition

Concluding our review of waterproofing in a wooden house, we would like to emphasize the importance of observing the following universal rules:

• any protective coating should be applied to a previously cleaned surface and only after it has been confirmed that all areas of mold or mildew have been removed or stopped;
• If there are deep cracks on the logs being processed, then work should begin by leveling the surface. Painting or impregnation is carried out only after complete polymerization of the putty;
• all types of waterproofing work (especially external) should be carried out in the warm and dry season;
• When laying vapor barrier and waterproof membranes, it is extremely important to observe their direction (there is always a front side and this is noted on the tape itself, as well as in the accompanying documentation).

The Master Srubov company accepts orders for all types of mechanical and chemical processing of log buildings, including waterproofing of floors, walls and support crowns in log and timber houses. You can clarify the specifics of cooperation and order the development of a detailed work plan through a communication channel convenient for you, from those published on the “Contacts” page.

Cast waterproofing

This type of waterproofing is the most reliable and is used for horizontal, inclined and vertical surfaces. It is made from hot asphalt mastics or cold mortars by pouring (for walls - into formwork) or by plastering, the layer thickness is approximately 30 mm. Cast waterproofing represents waterproof, elastic coating. Hot asphalt mastics acquire their protective characteristics immediately after application.

Cast waterproofing is a complex and expensive undertaking, so it is performed in especially critical cases.

Promising materials in this direction are asphalt expanded clay concrete, foam epoxy, bitumen perlite.

Waterproofing the kitchen floor

The floor in the kitchen is exposed to moisture not only from below - from the ground, but also from above - during washing, cooking and other kitchen work, a lot of water gets on the floor.

Therefore, it is necessary to protect the floor not only from below, as was written above, but also from above.

The principle of waterproofing a kitchen floor largely depends on the finishing floor covering.

It is not advisable to install a wooden floor in the kitchen, since it is most susceptible to moisture and will be difficult to protect. If you decide to lay parquet in the kitchen, parquet board or solid boards, their surface should be covered with waterproof varnish.

For additional waterproofing of the kitchen floor, you can treat the concrete base with a painting material

If you plan to use linoleum as a finishing coating in the kitchen, then the concrete base on which it is laid should be treated with a waterproofing material, for example, by painting or coating. Then put the linoleum on the glue. In this case, the linoleum itself will act as a waterproofing material.

Ceramic tiles also have water-repellent properties, but as a safety net, it would be a good idea to treat the concrete screed with bitumen-polymer mastics, paints, or another method. And for better adhesion of the tile adhesive to the base, the top of the waterproofing must be impregnated with a special primer.

Waterproofing the floor in a private house is a very responsible matter. If this is not done on time and efficiently, over time fungus and other mold may appear that cannot be removed. And the structure of the entire house will gradually collapse. There is no need to talk about high humidity indoors, which leads to frequent allergies and other diseases. It is better to think through everything and complete it on time than to rebuild and repair it later.

Requirements for floor waterproofing

The waterproofing strategy is regulated by many regulatory documents. During work, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements of SNiP 3.04.01-87 (section 4, which talks about the construction of floors) and SNiP 2.03.13-88 (about floors). In accordance with these documents, waterproofing must be installed in the floor structure of wet rooms (bathrooms, toilets, saunas).

It would also be useful to become familiar with Instruction VSN-9-94 DS (installation of floors in residential and public buildings) and the specifications for the materials used. According to building standards, floors in wet rooms are installed a few centimeters below the main level of other rooms. This technique allows you to retain water in limited space and quickly eliminate the consequences. A step or border is placed at the entrance.

Properly organized threshold to the bathroom

The front door not only protects the room from intruders, but makes the home decoration complete thanks to slopes, platbands and various design finishing options. To give the structure a complete look, thresholds are installed at the entrance doors. They enhance the aesthetics of the room. This article describes the types of thresholds and tells how to correctly install these structures yourself at home.

The threshold at the door is the final element in the design of the door space. In interior passages, planks serve as a decorative element, but for entrance and balcony doors their installation is mandatory, as they protect the floor from the accumulation of dirt and dust. Thresholds are recommended at the entrance to premises with high humidity or with the risk of smoke and odors (bathrooms, toilets, kitchens).

Purpose of thresholds:

• sound insulation;
• thermal insulation;
• obstacle to the spread of odors outside the premises;
• protection from accumulation of dirt and dust;
• decorative finishing.

Attention

Installing the bar increases the degree of protection of the room from intruders. An important purpose of a threshold is its ability to level out differences in floor coverings between zones.

What types of structures can be installed in an apartment?

Thresholds are classified according to the materials from which they are made:

• tree;
• metal;
• concrete.

Some specific types are made from cork and PVC.

Metal

To decorate metal structures with your own hands, use alloys from materials such as:

• brass;
• aluminum;
• stainless steel

Aluminum profiles more popular:

• they are abrasion resistant;
• unpretentious in care.

Such planks are not distinguished by aesthetics, they have a sliding surface, therefore they are decorated with corrugated elements made of wood or plastic.

Advantages of metal thresholds:

• suitable for industrial and residential premises with high traffic;
• optimal for installation in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms, toilets);
• simple design: profile, seal, decorative die;
• long term services while maintaining performance characteristics;
• big choice sizes;
• easy installation, flexibility;
• it is not afraid of mechanical stress or corrosion;
• relatively low price.

Installation metal profile does not require skills or special tools, as it is simply fixed with self-tapping screws. To secure low planks, it is permissible to use tile adhesive.

Metal thresholds are made from high and low profiles (up to 2 cm in height) depending on the functionality of the room and the load on the passage area. High ones are recommended for entrance and balcony doors.

Wood

To decorate the threshold with wood, you can use only hard types of wood, such as:

• aspen;
• pine;

Their range is large: it’s easy to select by texture, color, pattern. The tree is beautiful, but difficult to care for; it requires periodic renewal of the protective coating and frequent cleaning.

Advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• simple installation;
• compatibility with common floor coverings (laminate, linoleum);
• relatively low price;
• abrasion resistance;
• high heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Wooden planks can be made independently from hardwood timber. Disadvantages include the need to renew the protective coating, periodic painting, and vulnerability to moisture.

They are not recommended for installation in entrance and balcony openings, since wood is less resistant to the accumulation of dirt and dust. Due to low moisture resistance, they are not installed in rooms with high humidity. Suitable for interior doors.

Concrete

More expensive, but the most durable option. Concrete thresholds are difficult to install and are poorly suited for installation in openings with built-in doors. Installed at entrance and balcony doors. Peculiarities:

• require exterior finishing made of wood, laminate or tile;
• suitable for high traffic areas;
• service life - up to 50 years;
• optimally select concrete thresholds at the design stage, when the doors have not yet been installed;
• waterproofing properties;
• unprofitable for interior openings due to the high price excluding bathrooms and toilets.

If chips or cracks form in the concrete base, complete dismantling of the coating and doors is required. Optimal for finishing thresholds in private homes. The threshold must be filled with a mixture of cement and sand with the obligatory addition of a plasticizer, as it is necessary to impart plasticity. High thresholds can be constructed of brick.

What should I do after installing the door device?

Before installation, you need to determine the area of ​​the future threshold. In terms of design and functionality, products differ in:

• height;
• materials;
• installation features.

Calculation

The calculation is made based on the design solution. High thresholds with a thickness of 2 cm or more are suitable for entrance doors. The optimal thickness of a low aluminum threshold is 30 mm. The following quantities are involved in the calculations:

• width of the opening between the slopes;
• the distance between the floor covering and the edge of the bottom vertical strip of the box;
• the distance from the edge of the lower vertical of the box to the end of the sill protrusion;
• thickness of decorative elements.

The threshold can fill the entire width of the opening between the slopes. For accurate measurements, it is recommended to use a building level. When measuring the width along the slope, use 5–7 cm increments to avoid inaccuracies. If the plank is fixed in the grooves, then 2 cm is added to the width (1 cm on each edge). Calculations will help in choosing factory products or formwork.

Attention

Measurements are taken after dismantling the old covering and installing the door frame, if the threshold is not calculated at the project preparation stage. The surface is cleared of large debris, stones or sand.

Selection of the necessary materials and tools

1. For mounting metal or wooden profile You will need a hacksaw for wood or metal.
2. For installation - a screwdriver, hammer, nails and screws.
3. To form a concrete structure - formwork, primer, spatulas.
4. To treat a wooden threshold you need to select a protective coating.

When choosing a material, the load, type of room, and finish of the opening are taken into account. Before deciding how to seal the opening, you need to consider the following recommendations:

• decorative dies are selected depending on the texture of the door frame or floor covering (wood, tile);
• for rooms with high humidity, moisture-resistant materials (concrete, metal) are needed;
• It is not recommended to use plastic strips as the main profile, as they are short-lived;
• consider the type of fastening of the plank (external or hidden), where products with internal fastening are more aesthetically pleasing;
• in private houses, it is better to pour a concrete threshold at the entrance doors;
• take into account the load and traffic when selecting durable materials for entrance doors.

Decorative Wooden planks are easier to maintain, but more durable than PVC. Moisture-resistant structures must be supplemented with a cork compensator. To seal the holes you will need putty. If decorative material light enough to be mounted with glue, use tile adhesives.

To insulate a high entrance threshold, you need to prepare materials such as mineral wool and reinforcing mesh.

How to install and cement?

1. Initially, the surface is cleaned of contaminants.
2. The high threshold is formed from concrete or brick in 1–2 rows.
3. The brick is laid on cement and periodically tapped with a hammer to compact it.
4. Then the masonry is framed with cement mortar.

Stages of installing a high concrete threshold:

1. prepare a wide formwork from plywood or timber;
2. wrap the formwork with cling film or treat it with grease to make it easier to separate from the concrete;
3. support the beam along the side walls perpendicular to the slopes;
4. if the height of the threshold is above 7 cm, then install longitudinal metal beacons to level the mass;
5. lay a layer of mineral wool, secure with a reinforcing mesh with a cross-section of no more than 50 mm;
6. prime the surface in 1–2 layers;
7. pour concrete into the formwork or pour it onto the current foundation;
8. level the concrete with a rule or a wide spatula;
9. leave to dry for 2-3 days, periodically sprinkling with water.

After drying, the formwork is removed and the surface is decorated. For a low threshold, take aluminum strips, which are fixed in a hidden or external way, when the heads of the screws are visible.

Installation steps:

1. install the threshold, make markings around the perimeter;
2. mark the locations for the holes in the plank;
3. drill holes in the floor according to the finished markings;
4. hammer in the dowels;
5. secure the bar with self-tapping screws, recessing the caps into the base.

With the hidden fixation method, self-tapping screws together with dowels are inserted into the longitudinal groove of the plank. Then the threshold is fixed on the base and tapped with a hammer through a sheet of plywood or timber.

How to cover with laminate and other materials?

Concrete and brick structures need decoration. To refine the structure, you can use materials such as:

• composite plates;
• ceramics;
• tile;
• tree;
• metal;
• laminate;
• linoleum.

The cladding is carried out in continuous slabs or in fragments. The concrete is pre-treated with concrete contact. Tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar are suitable for fixing.

How to sheathe the threshold:

1. the gaps between the floor and the box are filled with low-expansion foam;
2. applied to the base thin layer adhesive composition;
3. after installing the fragments or panels, tap them with a hammer to securely fix them;
4. tile joints are expanded and sealed;
5. wood paneling covered with a protective composition.

Before installation, the area of ​​the base is assessed. A marking with the future pattern is created on the plane or a panel of a suitable size is selected. Fragments of finishing are cut according to the finished markings.

The texture of the cladding is matched to the pattern of the material of the door frame, slopes and trims. When choosing wood, it is important to consider the direction of the pattern.

The threshold at the entrance doors protects the door slopes from external influences. Having selected materials and performed calculations, you can beautifully design entrance area. Concrete and brick bases at the entrance doors are decorated with available building materials, which opens up scope for the implementation of most design solutions.

Useful video

We invite you to watch a video about installing various door threshold feeds:

To install a threshold on a door in an apartment, it is not necessary to invite craftsmen - this task is quite within the capabilities of a home craftsman. There are several ways to make a front door threshold. The main thing is to decide on the materials from which it will be made before performing work.

Threshold functions

First of all, it is an integral part of any entrance door. The product performs several important functions: it provides protection from dust, dirt and drafts, since the threshold provides a rebate for the lower part of the door leaf.

The threshold also affects sound insulation, especially if, together with the rest of the vestibule, it is covered with a sealant.

The presence of a threshold means more reliable protection against forceful break-ins, due to the tight fit of the door leaf to the frame, and hence the reduction of the gap between them. This will prevent an intruder from sliding a crowbar under the door to pry it up or towards himself.

Threshold selection

Installing a threshold most often means replacing it - it is extremely rare that it is missing from the very beginning. The remains of the old threshold are completely removed and the surface is cleaned. If, after all, there was no threshold under the door leaf before, then you just need to thoroughly clean the floor surface under the door.

Before you begin installation, you need to decide on the material.

There are several types of thresholds that can be made from:

• wood - it is advisable to select a threshold from a single piece of wood (ash or oak) without a layer of veneer or laminate - it has much greater strength and resistance to mechanical damage;
• plastic is a material that is quite affordable and also has good strength;

Must be resistant to sunlight.

• stone - more often used for balcony doors, and in some rooms for entrance doors.

Size and material

In order for the threshold to efficiently perform all its inherent functions, it is important to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. To create complete sealing, the threshold must ideally match the opening in shape and size.
2. The height of the threshold to the canvas should be about two to three centimeters. It is not recommended to make the threshold too high, as it will create some difficulties for movement.
3. For the entrance door threshold, it is better to use metal as a material, as it is more durable and reliable for more intense loads.

Do-it-yourself threshold installation

Before starting installation work, it is important to follow one main rule - the surface must be perfectly cleaned and leveled so that flaws are not noticeable and there are no problems with fitting the material.

Wooden threshold

First of all, prepare the place where it will be installed. To do this, the surface is cleaned of dirt and leveled.

1. The threshold is prepared by cutting it out in accordance with the dimensions of the opening.
2. Holes are drilled in the fastening pestles.
3. Using a building level, the threshold is secured with screws or nails.
4. The paint coating is applied.

To do this, cuts are made in the lower part of the box equal to the height of the threshold into which the product must be inserted.

Before you begin installing the threshold, you first need to attach it and try the door during operation. At the same time, nothing should interfere with its opening and closing, and its lower part should fit snugly against the protrusion.

Concrete threshold

The installation process of this type is slightly different from the previous one. To install a concrete threshold, you need to perform the following steps:

1. The installation site must be prepared by first clearing it of dirt and dust and leveling it.
2. The surface is treated with a primer.
3. Using a building level, the formwork is set.
4. Cement mortar is prepared. To do this, it is better to take special mixtures with the addition of an additive, which gives the composition elasticity and frost resistance.
5. The mixture is poured into the formwork.

After the solution has completely dried, the formwork is removed.

To make the threshold more reliable, it must be moistened with water for several days.

Once the solution has completely dried, you can begin decorative finishing.

It is not uncommon for small cracks and gaps to form after hardening. You can eliminate them by covering them with putty, and then go through them again, but only using a silicone-based product.

Knowing some of the nuances and sequence of installing the front door threshold, doing the work yourself will not be difficult.

Content:

In order to hide the joints between coverings, refine the interior and smooth out differences between different floor levels, interior thresholds are needed, the installation of which is not as difficult as it requires attention to the nuances. If you carefully follow the recommendations from experts, the result of the work will give everything that every apartment owner dreams of: beauty, style, comfort, reliability, durability.

Installing floor thresholds with your own hands - Photo

In what cases are thresholds applied?

At the front door, between rooms, in the hallway, in the bathroom, in the kitchen, installing thresholds is extremely necessary. If desired, anti-slip profiles can be installed on smooth stair steps. Sometimes residents want to do without thresholds in adjacent rooms, but in this case the load on the coating will increase due to changes in pressure and humidity, so its service life may be shortened.

Types of materials and their purpose

It is very important to choose the right texture and color for the floor covering; not only the aesthetics of the decor, but also the wear and tear of the product will depend on this. To connect two coatings of different colors and textures, you need to take profiles that are most suitable for one of them. Or you need to select textures for doors and openings.

Modern interior thresholds are made from the following materials:

• Metal a new trend, it comes in matte, shiny, silver, gold and is often matched in color to door handles, but can be of any color and harmonize with other interior details;
• Tree suitable for any coating, but requires maintenance - painting or opening with varnish;
• Cork elastic, can bend, used where it is necessary to provide a difference;
• Plastic most a budget option, has a huge selection of colors, but is short-lived - it can burst if heavy objects are dropped on it;
• Laminate- can be combined exclusively with a similar material; in conditions of high humidity it can gradually change shape.

By the way, moisture resistance- one of the main technical characteristics that interior thresholds should have, installation of materials with this quality is especially important when moving from tiles to laminate. Because tiles are usually placed in the bathroom and kitchen, where water can often get on the floor.

Types of interior thresholds - Photo

Features of installing interior thresholds

1. The length of the product is measured and cut according to location.
2. The fastening line should be in the middle of the doorway, and the threshold itself should be wide enough to closed room when lying down or sitting, do not see the adjacent covering.
3. With a small difference - 5-7 mm, it is permissible to use conventional connecting profiles.
4. The wider the gap, the correspondingly wider the threshold should be.

Types of installation

Modern installation of an interior door threshold is carried out using a drill and screws. But their caps can be visible or hidden, which is why there are two installation methods: outer or interior. The first method is more thorough, the second is more aesthetic. Preference depends on the needs of the apartment owners.

Installing an interior door threshold video

Do-it-yourself installation of interior thresholds

Method 1

Let's consider first open method. It's very simple. For it, you need to purchase profiles with ready-made holes, so as not to accidentally scratch or damage the product when trying to make holes yourself. Installation is simple and quick:

1. First you need to measure and cut a piece of the required length;
2. Attach it to the opening and mark the places for drilling;
3. Carefully drill the coating and screed;
4. Secure the threshold with screws.

At this stage, the installation of interior door thresholds is completed. It is very important to make the holes in the floor not too wide so that the structure does not become loose in the future. To prevent the bolts from standing out too much against the background of the product, you can look for self-tapping screws with decorative caps.

Setting a threshold between rooms. Multi-level threshold- Photo

Method 2

Now let's look at how to install thresholds yourself in a closed way. For this we use:

• slats, in which there are internal floating holes for screw heads,
• profile, consisting of two parts: a rail and a T-shaped threshold.

In the first case, after the profile is measured and cut, holes are drilled in the floor, then, after removing the debris, plastic dowels are inserted into them. On the inside of the bar behind the cap, screws are threaded according to the number. Then you need to very carefully turn the bar over and get the screws into the dowels.

After this, you need to press on the threshold so that it is fixed and tap it with a hammer through a bar or layer of newspapers. This is done so as not to scratch the surface.
The second method is more convenient and reliable. First you need to leave some space for it - do not cover the floor with laminate on at least one side.

Installing an aluminum threshold with your own hands - Photo

Next, in the designated area, holes are drilled in the floor in the same way and dowels are installed. A rail is placed on top and screwed to the floor. Finally, all that remains is to hammer in the T-shaped profile and cover the area with laminate.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing thresholds; anyone can do this job if desired.

If setting the threshold to interior doors is produced at will, then entrance doors without it are unthinkable.

Functions of the entrance door threshold

The entrance door threshold performs important functions. Without him door block will not be able to fulfill its purpose. These include:

• sound insulation;
• thermal insulation;
• protection from dirt and dust;
• providing additional security;
• decorative function.

The door threshold protects the room from noise, dust and cold that can enter the room from the street. Thanks to it, the door leaf fits tightly to the frame, providing reliable sealing and protection against burglary. In addition, the threshold decorates the appearance of the house if it is made in the form of a continuation of the steps in front of the front door. And inside the room it will create harmony if it forms one whole with the floor covering of the room.

Nut selection

As a rule, the threshold for the front door is supplied complete with the frame and represents its lower horizontal strip. Therefore, what it will be made of depends on the material of the door. Often, along with the threshold, a platform is installed at the same level, the width of which should be sufficient to place your foot on it.

When choosing a threshold, keep in mind that it is constantly subject to physical impact, so it must be strong and reliable, and withstand constant external influences, such as dirt and the weight of people standing on it.

Plastic thresholds are the least durable, so they are rarely used for entrance doors. If you want to install a wooden threshold, then you need to choose hard wood, such as oak. A wooden threshold will require regular maintenance: it needs to be painted or varnished to extend its service life.

A metal or concrete threshold is preferable; it is reliable and has a long service life. Metal ones usually come with metal doors. They are widely used for city apartments. Concrete is a common practice for private and country houses.

Installing a threshold on the front door

If the threshold comes with door frame, then it is installed in place along with it. Installation of a separately purchased threshold is carried out additionally after installing the door.

When setting the threshold, you need to take into account that its height should not exceed 30 millimeters. This recommendation is explained by the convenience and safety of using the door. In some cases, its height is adjusted or increased in order to achieve the desired appearance.

The instructions will tell you how to make a front door threshold out of wood.

1. Cutting the threshold according to the dimensions of the opening.
2. Drilling holes for screws.
3. Fastening with screws or nails according to the level.
4. Coating the threshold with varnish or paint.

In order for the threshold to hold better, experts recommend making it slightly wider than the doorway. And at the bottom of the box under it you should make cuts to the height of the threshold into which the product is inserted.

Before attaching the threshold, place it in place and check the operation of the door. It should open and close freely, and its lower part should fit snugly against the ledge.

The structure of a concrete threshold differs from a wooden one. To install it you need to follow these steps.

1. Preparing the installation site, removing dirt and dust, leveling the surface.
2. Surface treatment with primer.
3. Leveling the formwork.
4. Preparation of the solution. To do this, it is recommended to use special mixtures to which additives are added for their elasticity and frost resistance.
5. Pouring the mixture into the formwork.

After the solution has dried, the formwork can be removed. To increase the strength of the product, it is moistened with water for several days after pouring. After final drying, decorative finishing is performed.

Often, after installing the threshold, gaps and gaps remain between it and the floor. They are sealed with putty, and after it dries, they are puttied with silicone putty, which will prevent cracking.

Threshold finishing

As a rule, the matter is not limited to setting a threshold. After installation, you need to start finishing, which will make the front door more attractive.

If for wood everything ends with painting or varnishing, then you can finish the concrete threshold of the front door using tiles, linoleum or other materials. The finishing is usually made with the same material as the floor. To prevent chipping, an aluminum corner can be attached to the threshold.

Knowing the important role of thresholds on entrance doors, you will be responsible in their selection and installation. Standalone device and finishing the threshold is not a difficult task, so it’s easy to do it yourself.