How to weld a door yourself. How to weld a metal door. Experience is the best assistant

Time forces you to save. At the same time, increased demands are placed on home security. Metal doors are an invariable attribute of every city apartment. An alternative to them in terms of reliability is only entrance doors made of solid wood, but they are incredibly expensive and themselves provoke an attacker to break in. Nice door made of metal and installation are also expensive. An alternative is a do-it-yourself metal door.

Of course, a homemade door cannot be a full-fledged analogue of a factory one: in artisanal conditions it is impossible to comply with the manufacturing technology. But opening a metal door is quite difficult, and it will produce the necessary psychological effect.

Blueprints " Steel door with your own hands":

Manufacturing Features

Attention: when measuring an opening, you must proceed from its real perimeter, i.e. Remove all paint and plaster from concrete slopes.

To make metal doors with your own hands you need:

1. Measure the opening.

2. When calculating the dimensions of the box, you need to lay two centimeters on all sides on mounting clearances.

Video “Making fireproof metal doors with your own hands”:

3. A steel corner is suitable for making a box. The recommended width of the shelves is 5 by 2.5 centimeters. The corner needs to be cut into pieces according to the size of the future box.

4. Lay out the workpieces on a flat surface in a rectangle. Control measurement - along the diagonals: they must be the same length.

Video “How to make steel doors with your own hands":

5. Weld the door yourself or ask a professional.

6. The canvas frame should be made two centimeters smaller than the box in height and one and a half centimeters in width. For the frame, you can use a corner 4 by 2.5 cm. Weld in the same way as a box.

Video “Making custom metal doors”:

7. Cut a hole for a lock in one of the racks.

8. Weld a loop profile to another rack.

9. Grab spot welding to the frame steel sheet thickness of at least one and a half millimeters. The sheet should overlap the frame by a centimeter (from the lock side - by one and a half).

Video " Self-production doors":

11. Weld the sheet.

12. For hinges, a steel rod 2 centimeters thick is suitable. Place bearing balls into the hinge blanks.

13. Mark on the canvas and box the places where the hinges and their mating parts are attached. Weld the hinges.

14. Clean the welds, paint the canvas with protective enamel or powder paint.

16. The inside of the door can be sheathed MDF panels.

The metal front door is ready with your own hands. All that's left is the installation.

Installation methods

Attention: often if you install a factory door yourself, you lose the warranty on it.

First way mounting the door leaf into the opening - using mounting plates (if you made the iron entrance door yourself, you can weld them in advance).

1. Three plates (eyes) are installed on each rack. When installing the box, the plates must be adjacent to the wall from the inside (so that they cannot be cut off).

2. Place the box in the opening and measure it vertically. There should be a gap of about two centimeters between the box and the opening.

3. Holes for fastening are drilled through the holes in the plates and anchor bolts are inserted.

4. Foam the installation gaps. Once the foam has hardened, the excess is cut off.

5. Hang the canvas on the hinges.

6. They install the best locks for metal doors.

7. Close the gaps with platbands. If the walls of the opening are wide, they are covered with MDF panels.

Second way: if the walls of the opening are wide and the box is recessed inside.

1. Place the box in the opening and align it vertically. The gaps between the box and the walls are from half a centimeter to a centimeter.

2. Through the mounting holes in the box, drill holes for fastening in the wall of the opening (depth - 10-15 centimeters).

3. Insert anchors and tighten.

Third way: concreting the box.

In this case, a hollow box is used, the inside of which is filled with concrete. Measure the vertical position of the box, fix the box to the wall with anchors and leave until the solution has completely set.

2. Before hanging the canvas, the hinges need to be lubricated. When adjusting the hinges, loosen the fasteners on them.

A do-it-yourself metal door often surpasses many factory samples in both quality and reliability. It’s not without reason that they say that a house is a small fortress, and the front door is a fortress gate. And it’s difficult to add anything to this. After all, if entrance doors are ordered at the market or in a supermarket, this is not a guarantee that the doors are of high quality and reliable. On the other hand, often the situation associated with the need to weld and install a temporary structure for the period of repair makes the idea of doing everything yourself quite realistic and relatively cheap.

DIY metal door - from idea to practical implementation

Conventionally, an independent embodiment of an idea put together from sets metal pipes, plates and corners do not require a real metal entrance door great experience locksmith work. True, we must immediately admit that assembling a metal door with your own hands will present certain difficulties. But with thoughtful organization of work and the availability of tools, many mistakes can not only be avoided, but also corrected in time.

The first step is to determine what kind of structure it will be:

a lightweight temporary structure for the period until a real armored door is purchased;
a structure that is planned to be built for a certain time as front door into the corridor from the landing;
a normal entrance door to an apartment or house with insulation and a secure lock;
a monumental structure for centuries with the firm confidence that the door will protect against any vandals.

Based on this, the forces, time, and necessary materials are calculated. The entire process of work is planned from taking measurements to installing external and internal lining doors. Conventionally, a door from a profile pipe is created with your own hands in several stages:

initial stage - taking measurements, preparing a drawing, selecting and ordering materials, preparing tools;
stage of development of individual components and connections, preparation of a slipway or assembly table for work;
creating a door block, welding doors, fitting, installing locking devices, installing metal sheets;
installation of a door in a doorway, fixing, finishing;
installation of cladding and internal filler, adjustment of systems.

Although this work scheme contains a large number of points, but step-by-step implementation their excellent result will be guaranteed.

Preparatory stage - where to start

It is not difficult to guess that an iron door is created with your own hands from metal pipes, angles, channels and sheet metal. But you should start by organizing your workplace and selecting tools for the job. It’s worth remembering that you can’t have enough tools. Having always learned to work with one tool, it turns out that it is more convenient to use several more tools for work. So for normal operation need to prepare:

metal ruler, scriber, tape measure, metal square, crayons;
grinder with a set of cutting, stripping and grinding abrasive wheels;
with a set of metal drills and a center punch;
welding machine, here it is preferable to choose an inverter, it is today optimal choice for newbies;
hammers of different weights;
files for metal - triangular, round, square, flat;
magnetic holders - multi-profile, with a mandatory angle of 90 degrees;
clamps, clamps, clamps;
Be sure to wear a welder's mask and gloves for working with hot metal.

The next point is organizing the workplace, because before you weld a metal door yourself, you need to at least prepare a platform for laying out all the elements for fitting. It is ideal to have a mounting table or workbench for this, but you can first prepare a simple flat area on concrete or OSB.

A do-it-yourself metal door will require the following materials:

metal profile 20x40 mm - 22-24 linear meters;
sheet metal - 1x2 meters with a thickness of 2.5-2.8 mm;
hinges for fastening the door with bearings;
lock with overhead handles;
to fill the internal volume;
insulation and material for external and internal door cladding.

Marking and preparing parts for assembly

At the stage of preparing parts, the design of metal doors, a drawing of which is drawn to scale, is drawn in the form of separate drawings - the elaboration concerns how the parts will be attached and what the sequence of work will be. Detailed drawings make it possible to minimize errors and waste when cutting metal.

When transferring drawings to metal, you need to clearly understand how a metal door is structured, which elements require special precision, and for which it is necessary to make a gap of 1-2 mm. For the door frame, it is important that all parts are made with the smallest deviations, especially if the profile pipe will be butt welded along 45 degree cuts.

First of all, prepare door frame. Tolerances on the outside should be no more than 1 cm in relation to the doorway. And here inner part must be ideal in all planes.

A do-it-yourself metal door, the drawings of which are developed taking into account the installation of safe locks with fixation at several points on the block, must be reinforced with an internal frame made of a profile pipe or corner.

In the process of laying out the door block parts on the assembly table, the installation location is determined:

anchor bolts for fastening the block to the wall;
door hinges;
key holes and fixing the safe mechanism;

Even before welding the hinges to the metal door and connecting the block into a single structure, it is recommended to drill the necessary holes in the profile, and only after that proceed with final assembly.

Door block assembly

When creating a metal door with your own hands, assembling the door block and the frame of the door itself have a lot in common. In both cases it is an assembly of simple rectangles. Assembly technology using joint welding profile pipes at an angle of 45 degrees provides:

preparing a profile with pre-cut corners;
laying out all the parts in one plane;
check internal corners door block;
with the help of several touches of the electrode, the structure is literally seized into one whole;
using a square, the correctness of right angles is checked, and internal diagonals are measured with a tape measure;
the entire structure is welded with a construction seam.

Before welding a door from a profile pipe, the finished door block is tried on in place of the opening. Then, with the help of the grinder and grinding wheels, the sagging is removed and beautiful, even seams are formed.

Door frame assembly

A do-it-yourself entrance door made of metal is welded using the same technology as the door block, with the only difference being that its dimensions must be as accurate as possible outside designs.

In fact, the door block in this case can be used as a template for laying out parts and fixing the frame before welding. The first step during assembly is welding the door hinges. The parts are adjusted so that at the top the gap between the block and the door itself is 2-3 mm, but at the bottom the gap needs to be made larger - up to 3-5 mm. When using simple garage hinges in the design, they need to be welded on top of the frame and block. For loops hidden installation need to be provided extra space in the door block. To do this, it makes sense to make the side where the hinges are attached from a pipe of a larger cross-section. A gap at the bottom of 5-7 mm between the door and the block is needed because the armored door is welded with your own hands from 3-4 mm metal, and the weight of the door over time causes wear in the hinges, gradually lowering the door.

After welding the hinges and guide, we begin welding the frame of the door itself. Door block placed horizontally on a flat surface. Using a level, its position is checked. Pipes, cut to size using wooden planks, are laid out level inside the block. The gaps between the door frame and the block are established using wooden wedges or plastic crosses for installing tiles.

Further, as with the block, temporary fixation is carried out with individual points. After checking the corners and diagonals, the final welding of all elements into one unit. After welding the door frame, the entire structure is raised and checked in a vertical position. If the door opens and closes easily without touching the block, you can begin installing internal struts and locks.

When forming the frame, all elements must be fixed in one plane. Metal tends to deform during welding. As a result, made homemade doors Made from metal with your own hands, they turn out to be curved.

Installation of a lock and locking hardware

There can be no trifles in the question of how to weld a metal door with your own hands. Especially when it comes to safety. Installation of the lock and safe hooks must be carried out during the manufacturing process of the door frame.

Until the frame is covered with a metal sheet, it is convenient to make holes in it and install a lock. When placing the lock, you need to keep in mind that an armored door, like any other, can be lowered during operation. This means that locking mechanism should be placed so that when the door is lowered, it cannot jam.

The gap between the bottom of the lock tongue and the bottom of the hole in the block must be no less than the gap between the door and the threshold of the block. Marking on the door frame mounting hole this fact must be taken into account. Alternatively, you can cut an opening in the door frame to size mounting plate castle Then, simply make a mounting strip from a metal strip and weld it into the body from the inside.

The second installation option involves making a slot in the door frame pipe and processing it with a file until the right size. However, the lock may prevent the door from closing. It simply will not allow the door to close if the gap between the frame and the block is less than 4 mm.

Installation of metal sheet

The final stage of assembling the metal door structure is installing the door tightly onto the frame. The marking of the sheet is carried out last, when the entire structure is ready.

Before welding a metal door into the final structure with your own hands, it is recommended to attach the block to a sheet. Circle it with chalk to visualize how much metal needs to be removed and from which side.

When installing the sheet, the external loops must also be outlined. Because you will need to specially cut openings for them in the sheet.

Having adjusted the sheet to size, it is installed on the mounting table and the door frame is placed on top. Welding is carried out with reverse polarity, the fact is that when thin metal is used, it simply begins to deform or at the welding sites, a burn-through is formed - a hole in the thin metal. When changing the polarity to inverter device the risk will be significantly less.

Welding of the sheet and frame is carried out with thin electrodes with a diameter of 2 or 2.5 mm. Never use electrodes with a diameter of 4 or 5 mm. Welding is carried out in one direction - gradually pressing the sheet to the frame. The length of the welding seam should be no more than 1.5-2 cm. In this case, the distance between the seams should be 5-6 cm. When welding a sheet and a pipe, welding is done on both sides of the pipe in a checkerboard pattern.

Familiarize yourself in more detail with the procedure for carrying out work and working on separate elements you can type in a search engine - how to do it iron door with your own hands.

Making a metal door with your own hands - video

The preparation stage for the manufacture of a metal door includes measuring the entrance opening and planning its structure. When making calculations, in addition to the size of the box, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the insulation layer and exterior finishing, in the presence of which the noise insulation and sound insulation of the door significantly increases. After this, you need to make a detailed drawing, which includes the main elements of an iron door: its leaf, hinges, stiffeners and frame. The resulting drawing will allow you to determine required dimensions solid metal sheet for making a door leaf using them with your own hands, structural stiffening ribs and the total quantity necessary materials. Regular door metal box It has standard sizes 2000x800mm. For a larger opening height, it is necessary to manufacture an additional upper frame or a side frame if the opening is more than 800 mm wide.

Tools and materials

If the drawing of the future metal entrance door has been made and its data has been verified, you can begin equipping the workplace with materials and tools. For work you will need:

metal corners for the door leaf and door frame;
door hinges, their number depends on the size of the door and its weight;
construction foam;
welding machine;
steel sheet having a thickness of at least 2 mm;
drill;
corner Sander“grinder” equipped with a disk for cutting metal;
reliable door lock and handle;
facing material - plywood, veneer or boards;
anchor bolts for fastening.

The list of materials is quite approximate; it can be made and adjusted with your own hands depending on the design, functional purpose doors and insulation used.

Making a metal door

Correct installation of an entrance door involves four main stages: creating a frame with your own hands, creating a door leaf, installing the necessary fittings and external cladding.

Each of these stages has its own characteristics:

In order to make a metal door with your own hands, you need to follow these steps step by step:

According to the selected dimensions of the leaf and door frame, you need to cut a corner with a section of 50x25 or 40x20mm and place it on a welding table, which it is advisable to place in the workshop before starting work. Then the diagonals and angles of the future frame are checked. The diagonals of the resulting rectangle must be the same. If the result is satisfactory, you can start welding.
From the manufactured box to its internal space you need to take the dimensions, providing a gap of 0.5-1cm on each side of the perimeter. After this, you should cut a corner with a section of 40x25mm - the future basis of the metal entrance door leaf. At the level of the planned lock, a slot is made in the profile using a grinder; you can also install slats into it yourself to install insulation and simplify the work on door trim.
For convenience welding work At this step, you need to weld the hinge profile to the hinges and the box. In this case, it is necessary to measure with great accuracy the distance between the hinges of the box and the frame to ensure their perfect match. This will help you easily hang the door on simple or hidden hinges.
Then the parallelism of the profiles of the leaf and the door frame is checked. After this, the remaining profiles are placed in it and fixed by welding.
Now you need to weld into a joint a metal sheet. When measuring the canvas, you need to take into account that it is taken with a margin of 1.5 cm more on the side of the locking mechanisms and 1 cm more on the other sides. The sheet should be cut according to the specified dimensions, and then laid on a frame of profiles connected by welding.
You need to weld the loop part on the back side of the sheet, and after that you need to weld along its entire perimeter with your own hands.
Then you need to weld a false strip from the inside of the sheet. To reliably strengthen the entire structure of the front door, you can weld several additional stiffeners.
After completing the welding work, you should clean the seams and anti-corrosion paint the door, regardless of whether you will sheathe it or not.
To install the lock, you need to make a hole in the corner of the frame for the bolt of the locking mechanism to fit in, and form a slot at the end of the door leaf for its installation. Then you need to make holes for the handle, key and mechanism fasteners.
At the final step of manufacturing a metal door, you need to install its cladding yourself. Many materials are suitable for this: wooden planks, PVC film, forged decorative elements and others.

Door insulation

Iron doors must be insulated. At the same time, their noise insulation increases significantly. The work can be done with your own hands using sheet materials. First, you should attach a heat-reflecting material such as foil insulation from the inside of the door. Sound insulation is placed on top of it - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane or any other type of insulation with such properties. Sealing joints and cracks door design performed using sealant. The fit of the door leaf to the frame is sealed using a glued rubber strip, and the noise insulation of the door is greatly increased. The door sound insulation is covered with an MDF panel or a sheet of plywood and the entire casing is secured using screws or liquid nails.

Door installation

There are two methods to install a metal entrance door. The first of them is used if the front door is located in the same plane as the wall. The second method is used if there are door slopes on the side of the room.

Fastening the door to metal plates

Most often, installation of a metal door to a wall is carried out using metal plates. Such plates can be installed on the side profiles of the box, based on the calculation of three pieces on each side. This technology can be used when installing a door with inside flush with the wall surface.

Anchor bolt mounting

This installation is used when the door needs to be moved inside the wall mass, which makes it impossible to use plates. To install the door you will need welding.

The door is installed on spacers and three holes are made in the side posts of its frame on each side.
Through the resulting holes, pieces of metal rod 12 cm or more in length are driven into the wall. The ends of the rods are welded to the door frame. Welding is performed through the cavity of the side of the box. This eliminates sagging that could prevent the door from closing.
After this, the space between the door and the opening is filled with polyurethane foam. All that remains is to wait for it to harden.
As you can see, making and installing a metal door with your own hands is not such a complicated task. Subject to the right technology and careful work, you can get a high-quality and economically feasible result.

In the presence of welding machine and even if you have little skill in working with it, it would be simply unreasonable to purchase a Chinese product that is not very durable. A do-it-yourself metal entrance door will become more reliable protection from burglary and bad weather. Let us describe in detail the process of its manufacture.

Required materials and tools

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Free instrument 50% success

Before you start making a metal structure, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools for the work.

We will need:

yardstick
carpenter's square for taking measurements;
metal corner for the door frame and door frame; it can be replaced with a pipe square section 40x40 mm; for the manufacture of the internal frame of the box and stiffeners, slightly smaller pipes of 40x20 mm are used
metal sheets: you should not take material that is too thin; its thickness should be at least 1.5-2 mm
welding machine
grinder or wire brush for cleaning welds
drill with drill bits
metal anchors or pieces of reinforcement for attaching the structure to the wall
screws, bolts
a wrench of the appropriate size for tightening the bolts
screwdriver
door hinges capable of supporting the weight of a door weighing over 100 kg
rim lock
plywood, MDF, lining or laminate for finishing

Taking measurements

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Welding a metal structure

Even when using standard drawings to assemble an iron door, you will need to take measurements. Perfectly even, symmetrical doorways simply doesn't exist. Therefore, it is necessary to be extremely careful when taking measurements.

One measurement will not be enough - you need to take measurements three times and then select smallest number from those received. To measure door leaf follows above, below, in the middle.

The height of the opening is determined in exactly the same way. If the old doors have not yet been removed, it is easier to measure them.

In most cases, the width of the canvas is a multiple of 10 cm - its width can be 70, 80 or 90 cm. Please note that the size of the future opening should be 1.5-2 cm smaller sizes the opening itself. The remaining cracks are subsequently filled with polyurethane foam. After all, it will be difficult to insert and perfectly align a door cut exactly to the size of the doorway.

Immediately determine which direction they will open. According to SNiP, entrance doors must necessarily open outward, so that in the event of an evacuation or transfer of a sick person, it can be opened without hindrance. In this case, it will also be possible to save useful space in the hallway.

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How to correctly measure the width of an opening

The opening side is selected taking into account comfort and convenience. Traditionally, doors are made right-handed so that upon entry they can be opened using right hand. But this option can be changed taking into account specific circumstances.

After all, the door should open so as to occupy a minimum of free space without creating interference. IN apartment buildings The location of adjacent doors is also taken into account.

Door frame

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So, we will describe in detail how to make an iron door yourself:

1 After cutting a metal corner or pipe to the specified dimensions, you need to fold the resulting parts into a rectangle on a flat surface or welding table, once again double-checking its dimensions.

2 There is no need to cut 45° corners. The metal strips are simply joined end to end.

Metal strips are joined end to end

3 We weld from a corner with a smaller shelf size internal frame. The distance between it and the frame is 3-5 mm.

4 Stiffening ribs are welded from the same corner - sections that are inserted inside the frame.

5 Don’t forget to thoroughly clean all seams with a sander, special abrasive fiber, brush, or pickle them with a seam treatment agent. Otherwise, the smallest remnants of metal, and behind it the metal corner itself, will immediately begin to rust. It is more convenient to grind off large deposits with a grinder or a file.

6 A fairly common mistake made by novice welders is to immediately connect the frame parts cleanly, “tightly”. There is no need to do this under any circumstances - most likely, the frame will have to be trimmed. Therefore, first you just need to “grab” the metal corners, and then align the assembled door frame with a building level not only horizontally and vertically, but along the corners and both diagonals.

7 Check that all parts fit exactly at 90°. Final welding can only begin after alignment.

Frame with internal frame

8 The next step is drilling holes for anchors and attaching hinges. At the same stage, holes are prepared for the lock bolts.

9 For fastening sealing gum To protect the frame from deflection, small metal plates are welded to it.

10 To insert the frame into the doorway, you can weld steel eyes to it or provide through mounting holes.

Finished door frame

Door leaf

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The height and width of its frame must match the size of the door frame minus 5 mm on each side for the door to move freely.
After cutting the sheets (this can be done with a grinder), we clean the edges from burrs with a file or grinder with emery.
Metal sheets are attached to the frame so that they protrude 10 mm at the top, bottom and side of the lock. The allowance on the hinge side is made slightly smaller - 3-5 mm.
After “grabbing” the sheets, we check the correctness of fastening, and then weld the seams completely. If the sheets do not move, we proceed to final welding. First, we “sew” them to the main frame, and then attach them to the intermediate stiffeners. There is no point in making continuous seams - it is enough to weld the sheets in small sections.
The cutout for inserting the lock must be provided before the sheathing.
At the same stage, you can attach a wood frame to the door leaf to secure the trim. To do this in in the right places holes are drilled in the metal.

Single sheet metal door design

Connecting the door leaf to the frame

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Just as with the previous assembly, the seams should first be “tightened” by welding. The final connection is made only after checking the correct installation.
We drill holes for inserting a key and, if necessary, a peephole.
To attach the hinges, you need to step back 20 cm from the bottom and top of the door.
Raise the door (it’s easier to do this together). We fasten the canopies in such a way that the lower elements (the pins are attached to them) are attached to the frame, and the upper ones, called counters, are attached to the door leaf.
All loops must be located strictly along the same axis. This is not easy to do - you will have to take measurements many times. Otherwise, if an error occurs, the door will warp.
It is better to hang a massive door not on 2, but 3 hinges.
Lubricate them immediately so that the door opens easily and does not creak.

Entrance metal structure

Even if the door will be upholstered or finished in the future decorative panels, it should be treated with an anti-corrosion compound or painted. For painting metal, it is better to use the so-called “hammer” enamel, made on an alkyd-styrene base.

Insulation

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Insulate an iron door welded from metal You can use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. When using polystyrene foam, sheets 4 cm thick are sufficient. Too much density of the material is not needed - after all, the load on it will be small. You will need to purchase 4 square sheets of 1 m wide.

At the time of buying polyurethane foam choose a composition with minimal expansion, otherwise the foam will simply squeeze out. We apply it around the perimeter of the frame, stepping back slightly from the edges. Next, polystyrene foam is laid. All seams between sheets, gaps between foam plastic and metal corner should also be sealed with foam. It can be replaced with Moment glue or any other suitable adhesive composition.

Installation of insulation

At mineral wool or stone wool there is a significant disadvantage– these materials are capable of absorbing moisture. A metal door with this type of insulation will quickly rust. For apartment buildings this is not critical - there is not so much moisture in the entrances. But here's how to insulate street door mineral wool is highly not recommended.

If the door is to be removed in the future self-adhesive film, close the insulation chipboard not worth it. Any irregularities will be immediately visible. Replace Furniture chipboard moisture resistant plywood. It is attached to the metal using self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes.

Metal door covered with film, trimmed with molding

You can decorate a door covered with film with moldings - decorative strips made of metal or polymer materials, painted to resemble wood, stone, silver or gold.

Inserting a metal door into an opening

Install massive metal structure alone is unrealistic. You will need an assistant.

Removing the old door

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Before installing iron doors, the old door leaf should be removed from its hinges. To do this, place a crowbar under its bottom, lift the structure and remove it from its hinges. Some types of hinges have to be unscrewed. This must be done starting from the bottom.
On an old metal door, after dismantling the slopes, you need to find its attachment points. To do this, plaster is knocked down in the area of the proposed anchors or reinforcement. All metal parts are cut off with a grinder, and then the old box is pulled out.
Regular wooden box easier to remove. It is enough to cut the side posts in the center, and then, using a crowbar, pry them out of the opening.
All loose pieces of brick and putty should be knocked down. The resulting voids are filled with new bricks and then covered cement mortar. Small potholes will be filled with foam in the future, so you can leave them alone for now.
Significant protrusions are knocked down with a hammer or cut off with a grinder.
Pay attention to the condition of the threshold. In old houses in these places they install wooden beam. If it is damaged, the beam needs to be replaced. You can check its safety with an awl. Insert it into the wood and try to loosen it. If this can be done easily, the timber has become unusable.

Removing the door frame

Door insert

1 It is more convenient to install it with the door leaf removed from its hinges.

2 The frame is installed on pads 2 cm high. With their help, the structure will be leveled. If no mistakes were made when welding the front door and all measurements were taken correctly, it should fit into the opening freely.

3 Check with a bubble or laser level arrangement of the structure horizontally and vertically. When checking vertically, you can use a plumb line - a weight suspended from the side.

4 After leveling, we wedge the door frame using wooden or special plastic wedges. They are located closer to the fastening points. There should be three of them on the sides, two on the top.

5 We check again with the level to see if we accidentally moved the frame to the side.

6 There are two ways to fasten metal doors. In the first case, the lugs should be pre-welded to the frame. If the walls are not thick enough, through holes are made in the box into which anchors or small pieces of reinforcement will be inserted.

Door fastening methods

7 To install anchors or reinforcement in the wall, you will need to prepare holes with a depth of 30 cm. The size of the drill must match the diameter of the fastener. You can mark the drilling depth on it using masking tape.

Installation of anchors

8 After inserting anchors or reinforcement, they are additionally driven in with a hammer. If you need to move the fastener slightly, insert a screwdriver between it and the wall, tapping it with a hammer.

9 Fastening begins from the hinge side. Then two fasteners are inserted from above, below and one from the side of the lock. The anchors should not be over-tightened - the door frame may need to be adjusted.

10 We check with a level to see if we have displaced it when driving in the fasteners.

11 We hang the door leaf. Let's check its progress. If there are distortions, cracks, or jammed locks, you will have to remove it and re-align the position of the box horizontally and vertically.

12 If the door leaf is installed correctly, it must be removed again and the anchors finally tightened. First, tighten the bolts from the hinge side, then from the lock side. The last ones are the bottom and the top.

13 After the final hanging of the web, its progress is checked again.

14 To create a reliable sound and heat insulating barrier, all gaps between the door frame and the wall are filled with foam. Its expansion coefficient should be minimal - it is easier to work with such a solution.

15 Excess foam should be removed immediately damp cloth. If you delay a little, after 5 minutes it will be problematic to erase it - the surface of the door will have to be scraped.

Slope fastening

After fastening the slopes with self-tapping screws or gluing with liquid The platbands are fastened with nails. The screws are recessed a couple of millimeters deep and then sealed with putty matched to the color of the platbands.

Entrance door threshold

According to the standard, its height should be 30 mm. But in most cases this parameter is not followed. The threshold can be made a little lower - about 20 mm. Too high will make it difficult to enter or drag heavy bulky objects into the house. Yes, and stepping over a high threshold is not very convenient.

Such a structure can be made not only from metal, but also from wood, stone or plastic.

All debris and dust must be removed from the installation site.
After taking measurements and cutting, grooves are prepared in the thresholds according to the size of the door frame.
Holes are drilled in each part for inserting screws.
There is no need to screw the threshold on right away - you just need to secure it with self-tapping screws and check whether it interferes with the opening/closing of the door.
If it moves freely, without effort, we finally attach the threshold, and cover the locations of the screws with the help of special covers, which can be purchased at a furniture store.

Threshold for entrance door

Finishing

The metal iron door looks too rough, therefore, it is better to finish it using veneer, MDF, laminate, self-adhesive film or painting with special paints. Chipboard is not suitable for these purposes - even with internal lining, after a year the sheets will begin to delaminate.

Special powder paints look very decorative, which are applied by spraying. However, their cost is quite high. Finishing with laminate is allowed only in apartment buildings - this material is too afraid of moisture.

Laminate installation

The finishing of an iron door can be done with MDF panels– they are produced according to the size of the door in the form of solid overlays, called cards, including veneer natural wood. You can also order panels according to your own dimensions.

For quite reasonable money you will receive elite doors that are indistinguishable in appearance from products, for example, made of natural oak. Very good quality for MDF panels from Belarusian and domestic manufacturers.

Types of MDF overlays

When finishing a metal door with clapboard, you will need to make a special frame. In principle, wooden planks can be attached to it liquid nails or using special fasteners- Kleimers. But still frame method considered more convenient. You can additionally lay thermal insulation material under a wooden frame made of narrow timber.
After cutting wooden parts The cut areas are thoroughly sanded. To protect the wood from moisture penetration and premature destruction, it is treated with a special impregnation and dried well.
The door leaf must be removed and all interfering elements must be unscrewed from it - handle, locks, peephole. The sealing tape must also be removed.
After attaching to a metal door (for this, holes are prepared in it) wooden frame start installing the lining. The planks must be joined to each other as tightly as possible. The step between the fastenings is 15 cm.

Material costs

Practicality

Every person who knows how to use a welding machine has a desire to make a beautiful and reliable iron door with their own hands. This work requires skills, but the product will be individual, guaranteed to be strong and durable. The process of welding such doors will not require fantastic financial costs and does not take much time. It is necessary to calculate the amount of material and prepare necessary tools, but first you need to take measurements and draw detailed drawing future product. We will describe in detail all manufacturing process and sequence of operations.

Preparatory work consists of choosing the design and construction of the future door, since each door is unique in size and can be outdoor or indoor. To understand how to weld a door correctly, you need to decide on the material, fittings and decor that you want to use. In order to calculate the number of components, you need to take measurements and make an accurate drawing. In progress preparatory work the following circumstances must be taken into account:

the recommended dimensions of the door are no more than 100 X 200 cm, otherwise it will be too heavy because additional stiffening ribs will be needed;
if the dimensions of the opening exceed 200 cm in height, you need to cover the excess part of the opening with insulated decorative or blind inserts;
if the opening is wider than 100 cm, you can install a blind insert or a hinged, securely fastened sash;
determine which way the door will open and select the appropriate locks;
calculate the location of the locks and door peephole in accordance with the height of the residents;
determine the type of paint, insulation and interior decorative coating;
calculate the type and depth of the door frame fastening points, anti-removal pins and vertical fastening drive;
calculate parameters and determine the type of metal components.

It is very important to make sure that the box will be attached to a monolithic opening, and not to wooden or plastered fragile surfaces.

The drawing, made to scale, must indicate the location of the peephole, handles, keyholes, hinges (from 2 to 4 pieces), stiffeners and anti-removal devices and mechanisms. To adjust, the door leaf must be smaller than the frame, and it, in turn, must be two centimeters smaller than the doorway.

Required tools and materials

Fast and quality work is possible only if you have a convenient and properly organized workplace and working tools. Independent welding of metal doors requires a certain minimum of tools, which consists of the following set:

convenient and durable mounting table;
welding machine with a set of electrodes and a mask;
marking tool, felt-tip pen or sharpened chalk;
welding magnets with an angle of 90° and clamps;
angle grinder (grinder) with discs;
electric drill and screwdriver with a set of drills and bits;
hammer drill with carbide drills;
working electrical extension cords;
tape measure and building level.

After taking measurements and drawing up a detailed drawing, you can accurately calculate the amount and name of the metal required for welding the doors, as well as select locks, hinges and other components. The natural desire to emphasize one's own individuality may influence the choice of material, and Special attention attention must be paid here appearance, hinges, increased security of locks, anti-removal units and additional locking mechanisms. A standard set of materials for a metal door consists of the following elements:

for the front sheet, steel with a thickness of at least 2-3 mm is selected, according to the size of the door with the overlap of the frame, usually 100 X 210 cm;
the door frame is welded from a 3 X 3 cm corner;
for the door frame and stiffeners, use a 2.5 x 5 cm profiled pipe and strips;
Fastening the box to the opening is ensured by strips 3 mm thick in the amount of 4-6 pieces. and 30 cm long;
door hinges in the amount of 3 pieces;
selected fittings and mounting bolts;
primer and polymer paint;
insulation and interior decorative finishing.

It is important that the locks have high wear resistance, and the hinges are equipped with bearings that ensure noiselessness and long term services.

Sequence of welding operations

The door welding process is individual and depends on the specific project. It is necessary that the parameters of the welding machine allow stable operation at the existing network voltage. To maintain the required dimensions and angles, you need to check with the measuring instrument, and also use special welding magnets when working. The sequence of operations consists of the step-by-step implementation of the following main points, namely:

the door frame is marked and cut, magnets are placed in the corners, tack welding is performed;
if the connection angle is violated, it is corrected, then the structure is finally welded;
seams on all sides are processed with a grinder;
then the door frame is cut and welded with obligatory measurements of the diagonals;
a gap between the box and the frame is required of 3 mm on three sides and 5 mm on the side where the locks are attached;
Stiffening ribs are welded into the door frame, taking into account the location of the locks, peephole, anti-removal pins, and the drive of the vertical locks;
mark the front sheet and weld it to the frame and stiffeners with a seam of about 4 cm every 15-20 cm;
We weld the hinges, having previously drilled a hole for lubrication;
We attach the lock assembly, pins to the welded door and drill out all the necessary holes;
We weld plates for fastening to the frame, grind and prime the iron door;
Next, painting is done, and after drying, all the fittings are attached;
the door leaf is insulated and the inside is finished with final painting.

It is important to carry out the production process without haste, carefully measuring the corners and achieving flawless operation of locks, vertical latches and rotary hinges.

Of course, this sequence does not reflect the nuances of each individual metal door, but the basic diagram is laid out correctly. Thickness, dimensions, and therefore weight are selected depending on the needs and individuality of each owner. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account that additional mass will require an increase in rigidity, and this will lead to a greater load on the frame, hinges and door frame.

Results

We talked about how to calculate, mark and weld a metal door with your own hands, what tools are needed for this process, what sequence of actions must be followed. Quality comes with experience, but you will undoubtedly save significant financial resources and also have a door made to your taste and size. Have fun and successful work!