How to Elevate Your Bed to Relieve Gastroesophageal Reflux Disease (GERD). How to make a double bed with your own hands, as well as assembling diagrams and drawings Raising the beds above your head

Gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD) occurs when the stomach sphincter spontaneously opens and acidic contents are released back into the esophagus, damaging the lining of the esophagus. One of the most effective preventive methods for GERD is changing the inclination of the bed. Body position is adjusted using a lifting mechanism, therapeutic pillows, or both methods at the same time. Using the tips below, you can greatly relieve the pain caused by reflux disease.

Steps

Part 1

Changing the inclination of the bed

Select a material. The choice of method and material must be balanced. It is best to use a therapeutic wedge pillow or bed lifts (of any material). These means will ensure sufficient height for a long time and at the same level. You can use one of three main methods:

Install correct angle bed tilt. The elevation angle must be carefully measured. Most studies state that the height of the headboard should be at least 15-20 cm. Medical sources confirm that this angle of inclination actually prevents acid reflux in the lying position.

The area of the shoulder blades also needs to be raised. The transition of the esophagus to the stomach is located in the area of the lower edge of the shoulder blades. Accordingly, to stop acid reflux, the area of the shoulder blades must also be elevated.

By leaving your shoulder blades at the same height, you may find that reflux has not disappeared, and your general condition has even worsened, as tension and pain in your neck and back have been added.

Never use multiple pillows to raise the head of the head. In this case, the angle of elevation of the head can cause compression of the stomach, which will intensify reflux and worsen the general condition.
- Try to avoid using regular pillows while sleeping as they can create additional tension in the abdominal area by pushing out stomach contents. You can also easily slide off such a pillow, and the therapeutic effect will disappear.
Understand Why these methods work. In an upright position, acid reflux occurs less frequently as gravity pulls the acidic contents down. As soon as you change the position of your body, gravity ceases to hold back the contents in the stomach, and you are surprised to find it back in your mouth.
- Raising the head of the bed significantly reduces the likelihood of contact of the esophageal mucosa with the acidic contents of the stomach. In some cases, getting up also relieves sleep disorders.
Part 2
Preventing Acid Reflux
1. Don't eat before bed. A late meal will ruin all your efforts! Go to bed with an empty and dry stomach. The last meal is at least 3 hours before bedtime, and it is better not to drink anything 2 hours before you go to bed. Violating this rule increases the likelihood of acid reflux.
  - Never lie down after eating. Wait at least 3 hours before taking a horizontal position. This is enough to digest food so that the stomach becomes empty.
2. Avoid fatty foods. Fatty foods (fried foods, fast food, etc.) take longer to digest, so your stomach is fuller. And the longer food sits in the stomach, the greater the chance of reverse reflux.
  - Chocolates contain a lot of fat And caffeine, which also negatively affects GERD. Also, chocolates can contain Coconut oil, stimulating the production of acid in the stomach, and the likelihood of acid reflux increases even more.
  - Stomach acid production is stimulated by foods such as fried foods, tomato paste, alcohol, garlic and onions.
3. Chew some gum. Chewing gum increases saliva production, which is a natural remedy for acid reflux. Knowing that you will have to eat something inappropriate, bring a pack of chewing gum with you to reduce the likelihood of possible complications.
  - Choose your gum carefully. Peppermint flavoring may cause acid reflux because peppermint instantly relaxes muscle valves while increasing acid production in the stomach.
4. Wear loose clothing. Clothes that are too tight put pressure on the stomach, causing extra pressure acid seeks any outlet from the stomach, so the likelihood of acid reflux into the esophagus increases.
  - If you are going to have a big meal or eat foods that stimulate acid reflux, try not to wear tight clothing (including underwear) to help relieve the condition.
5. Avoid coffee and orange juice. Drinking coffee makes a person energetic due to the caffeine it contains. But caffeine also stimulates the production of stomach acid, and increased acidity increases the likelihood of stomach contents passing into the stomach. reverse order. Likewise, you should stay away from anything that increases acidity (such as orange juice).
  - Juice from oranges and other citrus fruits contains a lot of vitamin C (or ascorbic acid). Ascorbic acid increases stomach acidity, increasing the likelihood of acid reflux.
  - To reduce acid production, you should also avoid carbonated drinks and teas with added caffeine.
6. Start playing sports. Physical activity reduces pressure inside the abdomen and has a beneficial effect on a person with GERD. The main thing is that the duration of the workout should be at least 30 minutes a day. You can divide this half hour into several small approaches. For example, a 10-minute walk three times a day equals one 30-minute walk.
  - A daily 30-minute walk can also help you lose weight. If you're bored of just walking, try gardening, swimming, walking the dog, or window shopping, etc. window shopping without shopping.
7. Control your weight. Overweight and obesity increase the likelihood of GERD. The stomach experiences pressure from stored fat, and the chances of its contents escaping into the esophagus increase. In some cases, losing weight is enough to get rid of GERD.
  - Avoid overeating. This will simultaneously control your weight and reduce the likelihood of acid reflux. It is better to divide the same amount of food into small portions, increasing the number of meals, and the stomach will not be overloaded.
8. Stop smoking. Smoking is one of the factors that increases the risk of developing GERD. Long-term smoking experience also increases damage to the esophagus and can cause cancer. When you quit smoking, you will feel instant relief.
  - Quitting smoking is necessary not only to get rid of GERD. By quitting smoking, you will significantly reduce your risk of developing diabetes, cardiovascular disease, cancer and other diseases, and you will also notice that your skin, hair, nails and teeth look much better.
Part 3
Drug therapy
1. Consider taking antacids to neutralize the acid. Magnesium aluminum hydroxide (liquid) and other antacids neutralize hydrochloric acid in the stomach and esophagus. Relief, accompanied by a feeling of mild cooling, is observed already when the fluid passes through the esophagus.
  
  Taking proton pump inhibitors (PPIs) is one of the the best ways prevent acid reflux. Inhibitors block the activity of the pump that produces hydrogen, which is necessary for acid formation. Accordingly, reducing the amount of acid reduces the likelihood of acidic contents entering the esophagus. For maximum effect PPIs are taken 30 minutes before breakfast.
  - Daily dose of different PPIs:
    Omeprazole – 20 mg once a day
    Lansoprazole – 30 mg once a day
    Pantoprazole – 40 mg once a day
    Esomeprazole – 40 mg once a day
    Rabeprazole – 20 mg once a day.
  - PPI inhibitors may cause side effects– headache, abdominal pain, vomiting.
2. Consider taking an H2 blocker (histamine). H2 receptors are dedicated exclusively to the production of acid in the stomach, so blockers H2 receptors counteract acid production. Your doctor may prescribe them as an alternative to PPIs.
  - The daily dose of different H2 receptor blockers is:
    Cimetidine – 300 mg 4 times a day
    Ranitidine – 150 mg 2 times a day
    Famotidine – 20 mg 2 times a day
    Nizatidine – 150 mg 2 times a day
  - H2 blockers may cause side effects, including headaches, constipation and diarrhea.
3. Visit your doctor to get an expert opinion. Drug therapy is an essential addition to the treatment of GERT at home. Typically, medications neutralize the acid or block its production. In addition to antacids (which can be purchased at any pharmacy or even a grocery store), your doctor will be able to prescribe the best remedy exactly in your case.
  - Acid is an important component of digestion and stomach immunity. Long-term drug therapy can disrupt the functioning of the digestive system. Use of any medication for longer than 4 weeks must be done with your doctor's approval.
Part 4
Learn about GERD
1. You are not alone. GERD syndromes are widespread among the population of most countries. Recent studies have shown that 7% of the US population experiences acid reflux daily, and 15% of the population experiences it at least once a week.
  
  Understand what is happening in your body. The esophagus is the food passage tube that connects your mouth and stomach. In the stomach, food is mixed with acid to prepare it for absorption by the body. This is where “acid” appears and “acid reflux” begins.
2. Know your risk factors. There are many factors in daily life that contribute to the development of GERD. Among other things, acid reflux is caused by the following reasons:
  - Pregnancy . The rise of the uterus changes the position of the stomach and other internal organs, pushing them up and forward, resulting in the creation of conditions for acid reflux.
  - Smoking. Smoking increases stomach acid levels. It also weakens the sphincter, which blocks the return of food from the stomach to the esophagus.
  - Obesity. Excess fat puts pressure on the stomach and increases pressure in it. When the pressure is very high, the acidic contents are forcefully squeezed into the esophagus.
  - Tight and tight clothes. Any restrictions in the abdominal area increase the pressure inside the stomach, causing acid reflux.
  - Rich food. The stomach stretches at the top to increase in volume. This increases the amount of acid near the junction of the stomach and esophagus.
  - Lying horizontally on your back. The horizontal position of the body (especially after eating) shifts the contents of the stomach to the area of \u200b\u200bthe connection with the esophagus.
  - Diabetes. If diabetes is left untreated, nerve tissue is damaged, including the vagus nerve (vagus), which is responsible for controlling the stomach and intestines.

The beginning was as banal as always: the bed underneath me fell apart again. There is nothing surprising in this event (especially if you take into account my considerable weight, as well as the fact that the bed was practically the same age as me).

I will also not hide that in furniture store, when I saw some kind of bed, which was quite shaky and consisted of compressed sawdust, a toad literally began to choke me. Moreover, these “beds” cost as much as if they were a real marble bed with gilding... It’s not in my rules to pay for something that will then have to be modified, improved and corrected, as well as repaired.

That’s when the thought came to me: why not make such a bed yourself? By the way, I subsequently implemented this idea, however, not everything turned out to be as simple as it seemed to me at first glance. It is worth noting the fact that it took almost two months to build the bed (but, of course, taking into account the factor of human laziness, the need to do basic work and many other circumstances). But let's start in order.

There will be step-by-step photographs and some text that will describe each step.

So, first I purchased boards for this good cause. It took me 14 linear meters a good (but as it turned out later, damp) floorboard, the width of which was 120 mm and the thickness - 30 mm. All this cost 990 rubles. I also bought 2 sheets of 10 mm plywood (its size is 1.5x1.5 meters) - 1230 rubles, wood glue, paint, brushes, various screws, sandpaper, edge tape (it’s still a mystery to me why I needed it?), legs (which I also didn’t use), a set of corners that was only partially needed. 2354 rubles were spent on all this.

As a result, the total cost was 4,574 rubles, but that was not all, as there were also bolts, nuts, stud screws, a can of paint, and a sheet of hardboard. This also cost about 850-1000 rubles; more precise information cannot be given now.

Yes, now it no longer surprises me why furniture prices are so high in our country. But it’s too late to change anything, moreover, for this whole thing I also bought a jigsaw. As it turns out, this is amazing. useful thing in any home. The money spent on it was returned incredibly quickly, and therefore this tool was not included in the list of expenses incurred. I already had a screwdriver and a drill.

But let's return to the work process itself.

My first task was to cut out the plywood. It was then that I realized that I had purchased two whole sheets in vain. A rectangle 195 by 92 could easily be cut out from one sheet of plywood, the size of which was 150 by 150. Then I actually found plywood, measuring 2x1.5 meters, so you can even cut out a whole sheet, but that was later...

Next we had to start working with the boards. This is where the crookedness of my hands first became apparent, because I couldn’t make the cut straight. Well, what can you do, although this fact is not particularly pleasant.

Frame fabrication is complete!

The plywood is attached to the frame with glue and screws.

Using glue, we attach the side members with screws at the ends.

The glue turned out to be quite good. For testing, I glued together two pieces of plywood. In the end, I simply could not break them. The plywood was cracking and delaminating, but there was nothing to the seam.

Here the consequences of my crooked hands are already clearly visible. And the tree showed that it was not dry enough, as it seemed, because now it was dry and slightly warped.

There's nothing you can do - you'll have to cover the joint with a mixture of glue and sawdust.

The boards began to literally “go by helicopter.” But I also planned to make bed legs out of them.

Well, there’s nothing terrible about it, besides, I have leftover plywood.

We make the base for the legs from plywood, and then we make the legs themselves from short pieces of boards. By the way, they need to be made in such a way that they do not bend.

The legs of the bed will be removable and secured with screws. I drilled holes in the boards so that a thick hairpin screw (8 mm) would not tear it. I also drilled holes in the plywood that will be fastened with them, so that everything would be tolerable. Next, I simply drilled holes in the plywood to 9 mm so that everything would fit without problems.

In order not to waste time with a wrench over each stud, I decided to screw two nuts onto each and simply locked them. Next, everything was done using a cordless screwdriver.

Don't wonder why cordless screwdriver the wire. It just leads to the battery (car).

That's it, now you can start final assembly. Glue…

...nuts...

...glue again...

...and, of course, screws!

As I already said, there was not enough paint. Moreover, there was a lot of work to do, but then my mother came to visit, she bought the paint herself and painted everything herself.

According to her, the pink one is really okay. But, as for me, it’s not very good. But nothing can be done; it will still be practically invisible.

And I have already started attaching the heels.

The heels are ready. They also act as adjustable feet.

At first, I planned to level the plywood with glue, and only then sand it - that’s why I bought sandpaper. But then I decided not to do this, bought a sheet of hardboard, cut it to size...

... and then pasted it on. It's hard to get it to stick smoothly. By the way, there was barely enough glue for this task. But at first I scolded myself for what I bought big bottle. I thought there would still be half of the glue left.

I decided to take the backs and sides from old bed. The backs were just the right size, but the sides were too short. This happened because I decided to lengthen the bed a little. But at the same time, I did not take into account that the sides are attached to the bed through planks. This added another 3 centimeters. Well, never mind, I decided to go to the store and buy a panel that matched the color (plus another 420 rubles). It is worth noting, however, the fact that even the narrowest one turned out to be twice as wide as the old one...

...but it turned out much more beautiful this way!

...and I decided to seal the joint with edge tape, it was not in vain that I bought it. True, it turned out to be a little darker, but nothing. It is convenient to glue it - glue is already applied to it, and therefore you just need to iron it with a warm iron.

I decided to also add a ribbon to the side.

It didn’t take much time to install the rear backrest; I already have experience with this.

We can summarize: the whole apartment is littered with sawdust, about 6,000 rubles were spent, it turned out a little clumsily, but nothing is visible under the panels (of course, if you don’t look closely). But most importantly, it is impossible to convey the feeling of how good it was when my bed did not even creak after I climbed onto it.

When on bed rest, we recommend making the bed higher. It will be more convenient for you and easier for the person caring for you: your back will not get so tired.
Here are three options for how to increase the height of the bed.
If you are undergoing physiotherapy treatment, you should check whether the bed can withstand the additional load.

How to increase the height of a metal bed

Since drilling and attaching metal or wood to a metal bed is difficult, it is easier to place the bed legs in small wooden boxes. This method of stand can be used for any bed, especially if you need to give the bed its original height.

Material

A. Base - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 90 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Smaller sides - plywood 9 mm x 72 mm x 1 50 mm, 8 pcs.
C. Large sides - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 150 mm, 8 pcs.
D. Block - durable wood, area corresponding to stand x required height.
E. Forged wood screws No. 8 x 25 mm.
Fastening with glue and screws.

Operating procedure

1. Drill holes for base A and sides C.
2. Drill in the sides B auxiliary holes with a diameter equal to half the diameter of the screw.
3. Attach sides B to sides C.
4. Attach assembled sides B and C to base A.
5. Sand and paint to match the bed or coat with impregnation.
6. Cut the blocks to the required size.

This way to increase the height of the bed is simple and effective, but take the time to choose the material. The wood must be well dried so as not to split under the weight of the bed itself and the person lying on it. Glued sheet plywood is suitable for this purpose.

Material

A. Extensions - well-dried wood, diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the bed leg, length - the height to which the bed needs to be raised + 150 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Nuts and bolts - approximately 5 mm, 8 pcs. C. Washers - as large a diameter as possible so that the wood does not split when the nuts are tightened.

Operating procedure

1. Drill holes for bolts in the bed legs and extensions A.
2. Bolt the extensions to the bed legs.
3. Paint to match the bed or cover with impregnation.

Metal stands for wooden beds

The stand made from angle steel or angle aluminum is very durable. It can be installed quickly.

During the gardening and holiday season, I want to spend more time on fresh air near your favorite beds, spruce forest and river. But we have to waste time returning to the apartment under the roof of a city high-rise building, because garden house no comfortable beds , and yours living room without a bedroom and a night bed stands right next to dining table. Do not despair!

It all depends on how and where you want to use it. For your child adolescence a single bed is enough beds . If you are of a large build, then comfortable sleep will only come with a semi-truck.

Are you married? This means you need a double bed made of solid wood.

If there is enough space, then install it under the podium pull-out bed, and on top place a cozy seating area with a coffee table, to which steps lead. IN small room where everyone is precious square meter, build bed on the podium.

Build in drawers to store bedding, clothes and other items.

For bed linen, place a tall narrow drawer with a hinged top lid at the head. It is convenient to store pillows and blankets during the day and a cape at night.Assemble a beautiful decorative backrest and nail it to the wall above the headboard. Place night lights on it.

This will give your bed aristocratic chic and comfort.

Select material and decide on price

Metal is too expensive and requires a specially equipped workshop, welding machine, has a high specific gravity and does not retain heat well. Nice furniture you can assemble houses from quite affordable lumber without overpaying for a well-known brand.

Construction wooden bed Doing it yourself will cost less than buying it ready-made in a store.

How to make a wooden bed with your own hands

Best suited for beds medium wood (from 550 to 760 kg/m³) and high density– over 760 kg/m³. It wears out less, but is harder to process.

Pine is optimal for strength and ease of processing.

IMPORTANT! Spruce is not suitable for load-bearing elements and bed legs . It quickly collapses under stress.

For the supporting frame, select boards or timber made of dense wood - larch, birch. The legs can be made from bars, and the slats for the mattress can be made from cheap pine boards 2 cm thick. For decorative finishing thin ones will do spruce boards 0.5 cm. Carefully check the material for knots, unevenness and roughness.

The fewer such defects, the easier it is to process it with a grinding machine.

Check the curvature of workpieces in a simple and effective way.

Lift it by one of the ends to eye level.
The ribs running from the near to the far end should present a straight line in perspective - their curvature will be noticeable immediately.

ATTENTION! Be sure to make a drawing. Consider the dimensions of your mattress. They may not match the ones below. Inner space frames beds there should be a little more. An allowance of 30 mm is allowed.

Immediately decide on the presence and height of the legs.

Bed solid wood can be made without them by gluing fabric pads at the corners to protect the floor from scratches. For light single and one-and-a-half-bed rooms optimal height will be 35-40 cm - you can vacuum and wash the floor or build drawer for storing things and clothes.

ADVICE! Try to strengthen the joints with furniture corners where possible.

Making a bed out of wood with your own hands may not be the most simple solution, but the most profitable.

Entry level bed

Under a mattress measuring 80x190 or 90x200 cm, build a simple single bed DIY wooden bed . It is suitable for an adult or teenager. For production you will need:

B rus for four legs with a section of 50x50mm;
D frame 25x245 mm for side edges and footboard, 25x100 mm - for making overlapping slats, 25x200 mm- for the headboard wall;
B rus with a section of 50x25mm for the manufacture of support beams for floor slats;

Materials for making a bed.

In addition to good lumber, purchase:

Furniture corners or bed ties.
TO fastening screws 60 mm;
Shingles length 80 and section diameter 8 mm;
With wood glue;
M orilka or impregnation for wood;
A krill water varnish.

Materials required for work.

During the assembly of this and other options beds use tools:

D rail and screwdriver;
N small hand plane;
R circular saw or furniture hacksaw;
Sh lifting machine or grinding machine;
N several clamps;
TO sources for applying glue, varnish and stain;
R sliding joiner's square;
WITH construction level;
M alka - a device for quickly marking corners to be cut;
WITH tuslo - a tool for quickly and accurately cutting workpieces at an angle of 45 and 90°;
AND measuring tape.

Tools that will come in handy at work.

First, assemble the headboard. Cut out two legs up to 80 cm high from a beam with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. Drill 4-6 holes with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 30 mm in their upper part from the inner sides. From boards 25x200 mm, cut two blanks 950 mm wide. At the ends, make holes up to 50 mm deep, matching those you made on the legs.

Lubricate the parts with wood glue at the joints and fasten them with dowels, carefully hammering them in with a mallet.

The footboard is made from boards 25x240x950 mm and two pieces of timber 400 mm high.

They are fastened in the same way.

The backs are fastened to the side walls 25x250x1900 mm with furniture corners or ties, aligned along the outer edge legs

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! Ties will make it easy to disassemble furniture when moving.

Along the lower edge of the right and left walls, using wood glue and clamps, install support beams 25x50 mm and length 190-200 cm. After drying, before removing the clamps, the beams are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws.

Assembling the side wall of the bed.

Make 12-14 transverse slats from 25x100 mm boards length 95 cm. Drill from the left and right ends according to through holes with a diameter of 3 mm at a distance of 12 mm from the edge. Lay them across the support beams at a distance of 35-50 mm and tighten the screws.

Final assembly of the bed.

IMPORTANT! All parts must be sanded before assembly. Using a sliding square, check the “straightness” of the corners between the side walls and backs beds . Use a building level to control the horizontal arrangement of frame structural elements.

Sand the rough surface with a sander. From the outer edges of the backrests and other parts to prevent wood chipping and improve appearance you can remove the chamfer. To increase service life, treat wood stain and dry. Cover acrylic varnish.

As you can see, making a wooden single bed is not at all difficult.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! To the ends legs When moving, they did not scratch the floor; you can glue felt pads to them.

Single bed

There are differences in the design of the backrests, and its longitudinal axis is reinforced with a jumper with a leg that prevents the mattress from sagging.

Made for a mattress with dimensions 140x200 cm.

The headboard of the lorry consists of a wall and two legs . Make a wall from 2-3 boards length 1400 mm and 25 mm thick, reaching up to required height(30-40 cm). The legs are made of timber 50x50x800 mm. Fastening wall elements and legs made with 8x80 mm dowels, wood glue and reinforced with long self-tapping screws from 65 mm.

The footboard is assembled in the same way.

Side rails of the bed - the one-and-a-half-length frames should be located on the same level with the lower boards of the backrests and have the same height.Change the design of the backrests for variety beds . The middle board of the wall can be replaced with short vertical inserts from the same boards fastened with tongues.

You can cut off the corners at the outer edge of the top board.

To do this, use a special tool - a small tool - to make markings with a pencil. The malka consists of a handle pressed to the edge boards , a narrow metal plate with a longitudinal cutout, and a fastening bolt that allows you to fix the plate by specifying desired angle and cut length. So in a simple way you will quickly draw symmetrical cutting lines on the left and right ends. To prevent the hacksaw from leaving the line, press a wooden guide block along the marking with clamps.

To give interesting looking Before varnishing a bed, you can limit yourself to applying stain only to the surface of the legs and backs.

How to make a double bed out of wood

Two adults is a serious weight, which requires a more thorough approach in choosing the material and assembly method. Make a sleeping bed from solid wood.

The basis is a standard double mattress measuring 200 by 160 cm.

You will need the following materials:

Used 50x50 mm lining for bed legs and frame, 3x3 cm – for support beams for mattress slats;
D boards 20x100 mm for cross-section under the mattress;
M metal furniture corner with a shelf width of 50 mm;
With amorez 40 and 65 mm long.

Tools you will need electric jigsaw, equipped with a file with large and widely spaced teeth.

First we assemble the frame for beds With internal dimensions 210x170 cm and a height of at least 15-20 cm. To do this, we glue together three or four pieces of timber and tighten them with clamps. After drying, we saw it in such a way as to obtain two blanks for the side edges. length 220 cm each and two for the backs - 180 cm each.

In the same way, we assemble a longitudinal jumper 10 cm high and 210 cm long.

When assembling, use a lock type connection. To do this, cut out a notch on short workpieces using a jigsaw, removing a section from the middle length 5 cm. On long side wall blanks beds , leave a “thorn” by sawing off 5 cm at the top and bottom.

Apply glue to the grooves and spikes and connect them at right angles, checking with a sliding “square”.

Attach the longitudinal jumper with additional support in the middle using metal corner with a shelf width of 50 mm, aligned with the bottom edge of the frame. Attach timber legs up to 40 cm high in the corners. Fasten with glue and self-tapping screws.

For strength, secure the connections with clamps.

For greater reliability, make legs beds from a thicker bar. To give them an elegant look, chamfer the inside at an angle of 45° using a miter box. Don't overdo it - the support area should be large enough to support the heavy weight. When installing the legs, use long countersunk head bolts with washers and wood glue.

At the bottom of each corner, place triangular inserts to prevent deformation of the structure.

Glue beams made of 3x3x210 cm timber along the long side walls.

Their top edge must be in the same plane as the top edge of the lintel.

Slats are made from 20x100 mm boards length 170 cm. They are laid and secured across the lintel and longitudinal support beams at intervals of 3 cm.

The first and last slats must be adjacent to the front and back walls frame, the rest are evenly distributed between them.

IMPORTANT! To prevent the slats from squeaking, make them 1 cm shorter than the internal width of the frame.

After completing the assembly, carefully sand the surface with a sander or drill with a special attachment using medium and fine-grained sandpaper.Cover with stain, and after drying, apply several layers of water-based acrylic varnish.

For double bed you can make a wall-mounted headboard from 2-3 boards length 25x100x1800 mm and 10-12 boards 25x100x450 mm. The first row that will be in contact with the back will be short boards . On the wrong side it is necessary to equip hidden fastener. Screw the headboard to the appropriate places with self-tapping screws metal plates, the free lower edge of which will be inserted into the grooves of the tires when hanging.

The most reliable solution would be to fix the tires with dowels on the wall. wall cabinets- by the number of short boards.

If you don’t like a hard headboard, assemble it with upholstery from the following layers:

D SP or plywood 1 cm;
Foam rubber from 3 cm;
In atin;
ABOUT beating fabric with an interesting pattern;

Cut out a base 45x180 cm from a piece of plywood or chipboard.

Bevel the ribs and sand them thoroughly so as not to tear the upholstery and batting.

From polystyrene foam or foam rubber, cut out a blank that matches in size and shape. Attach it to the chipboard and make several symmetrical holes for decorative buttons. Measure and cut the batting and upholstery fabric according to the shape of the workpiece with allowance, equal to the amount thickness of all workpieces, multiplied by two.

Make sure that the holes are located symmetrically.

Using glue or a special spray, glue the foam rubber to the base. Carefully lay the batting on the floor. Place the chipboard blank on it.

Fold the seamed edges, starting from the bottom, and nail them to the chipboard using a furniture stapler.

Repeat this operation with the upholstery. To prevent the fabric from wrinkling, iron it with an iron and tighten it properly using clamps screwed to the middle of the workpiece.

IMPORTANT! Don't skimp on staples. Nobody will see them anyway.

Finally, “sew on” the sofa buttons. From the underside of the headboard, pierce the upholstery with a large “shoe” needle and drag a thick, coarse thread, thread it through the eye of the button and bring it back through the same hole.