The main diseases of roses and their treatment. Diseases of garden roses: treatment and prevention Orange growths on a rose

Roses are sick and wilted - we look for and eliminate the cause

Rose is a whimsical ornamental plant. If not properly cared for, she can develop fungal and viral diseases. You will learn from our article how to recognize an infection, how to treat roses against aphids and diseases, and what preventive measures to take.

The most dangerous diseases of roses are viral ones, as they lead to the death of the plant completely, and it is almost impossible to cure it. But such diseases are much less common than fungal diseases - those that affect one part of the plant (leaves or stem, less often a flower). One of them is phyllostictosis of rose leaves, which we have already considered in detail.

Infectious burn or stem cancer (lat. Coniothyrium wernsdorffiae)

It is caused by the fungus Coniothyrium wernsdorffiae. The plant becomes infected during the autumn-spring dormant period. Spores penetrate through frost-induced cracks in the rose stem, or wounds left after improper pruning, or without treatment with garden varnish.

The disease spreads to all types of roses and can spread to blackberries and raspberries through poorly disinfected tools. Stem cancer spores are carried by water; reproduction is facilitated by damp, windless weather and late, after July 20, fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizers.

Rose diseases and their treatment require a lot of time and attention. It is necessary to constantly monitor the behavior of the infection, and if it continues to develop, it is better to remove the bush completely, and if neighboring plants are infected, destroy the entire rose garden so that fruit and vegetable crops do not become sick.

Signs of an infectious burn

Garden rose disease manifests itself on the stem; dark brown ulcers appear, which, when girded along the entire diameter, lead to the death of the shoot. Black spots (pycnidia) begin to grow on the ulcers, which serve as a source of further infection.

Treatment of an infectious burn

Remove diseased shoots without damaging the cankers on the stem;
Clean small wounds to a healthy base; it is most convenient to use a paper knife. Cover with garden varnish;
Before the buds bloom, it is important to prevent rose disease; treat the affected bush with 3% Bordeaux mixture, this will destroy the spores so that rose pests do not spread them;
Spray infected shoots with HOM fungicide every week until cured.

How to prevent an infectious burn

Avoid freezing of the plant, which leads to cracks in the stem;
Protect roses from frost at moderate humidity and a temperature of no more than 10 degrees Celsius;
Before covering, treat the soil with 3% copper sulfate or 1% Bordeaux mixture;
Disinfect the tool before trimming;
In the second half of July, spray with potash fertilizers.

Rose rust (lat. Phragmidium disciflorum)

Occurs in the spring due to infection with the fungus Phragmidium. It affects the entire above-ground part of the plant in late April - early May, spores are transferred by water. Yellow growths (spermogonia) appear on top of the leaves and shoots; by autumn they turn black. Pustules appear on the lower part of the leaf blade, which generate dust with spores and infect neighboring plants. Rust affects berry bushes, ornamental and coniferous trees.

Signs of rose disease: photo, description

The foliage is covered with spots of red and brown. After a while, the leaf blade dries out and falls off;
The shoots change shape and twist, begin to crack and spray spores.

Rust on roses, treatment

Treatment with preparations containing zinc and copper (fungicides “Abiga-Pik”, “Topaz”, “Bayleton”, copper sulfate);
Spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Rust Prevention

At the end of summer, it is necessary to thin roses from dry leaves and branches;
In early autumn, treat with 3% copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture;
Spray with chemical immunomodulators (“Elina - extra”, “Zircon”, “Immunocytophyte”).

Black spot (lat. Marssonina)

Caused by the fungus Marssonina rosae, when it gets on a plant it affects the leaf blade, flower petals and sepals. The spores are carried by water droplets and black spotting develops in July and August.

How to recognize the disease

Small dark spots appear on diseased plants, which quickly increase in diameter to 15 mm. Conidia with fungal spores form on them. Leaves fall in sequence from top to bottom. The rose weakens and gradually dies.

Black spot on roses treatment and prevention measures

Leaves and shoots affected by black spot are cut off; they cannot be sent to compost, so they are burned;
Diseased roses are treated with fungicides containing copper and zinc (“Fundazol”, “Kaptan”);
In the fall, before covering the plants for the winter, they are sprayed with 3% copper or iron sulfate.

Powdery mildew or rose conidiosis (lat. Sphaerotheca pannosa)

Caused by a fungus that affects leaves and shoots, less often flowers and buds. Warm weather (from 20 degrees Celsius) and high levels of air humidity in the summer are favorable for the development of spores (conidia). The fungus is spread through the air, water during irrigation, rain, and insects. Powdery mildew affects almost all ornamental plants, fruit and vegetable crops, so it is important to start fighting the disease in time.

Signs of rose infection, disease and treatment

The leaves of roses become covered with dark red spots, later the leaf plate becomes deformed, dries and falls off;
The shoot is covered with loose pustules that look like pads. Fungal spores mature in them.

How to prevent powdery mildew infection

Thin out the bushes and prevent the planting from becoming thicker;
Do not overfeed with nitrogenous fertilizers, observe the timing of their application (until mid-summer);
During the formation of buds, treat with fungicides (Topsin-M, Bayleton, Fundazol);
Every 2 weeks, spray the rose bushes with a 10-day infusion of mullein;
From mid-July, fertilize with potassium sulfate.

Downy mildew or downy mildew of roses (lat. Pseudoperonospora)

It occurs due to a fungal infection and infects plants in early summer. Spores are spread by rain and wind. Development is favored by a sharp drop in temperature, swampy soil, high humidity, as well as shaded areas with poor air ventilation. The disease affects many ornamental plants, vegetables and berries.

Signs of rose disease and their treatment with photos

Shapeless dark red or purple spots appear on the leaf plate; over time, the foliage begins to lose shape, curl and fall off;
Cracks appear on the stems of roses, the leaves of the buds darken and die;
Using a magnifying glass, you can see the cobwebs on the back of the sheet.

Treatment and protective measures against peronosporosis

Plants infected with downy mildew should be completely uprooted and burned away from healthy ones;
For small lesions, treat roses with fungicides (Strobi or Ridomil Gold);
During the formation of buds, spray with products containing copper and zinc (Bordeaux mixture, Cuprozan, Ditanom-M45;
Treat in a timely manner with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.

Gray rot of roses (lat. Botrytis cinerea)

It occurs due to infection with the fungus Botrytis cinerea and moves through the plant from top to bottom.

Signs of infection

Dark spots appear on the affected areas; if they surround the sprout, it dies. Yellowish spots appear on the leaves and petals. Over time, gray fluffy mycelium begins to appear on them. The development of gray rot fungus is facilitated by prolonged rains and increased air humidity, and poor ventilation when grown in greenhouse conditions.

How to cure and prevent rose disease

Treat diseased plants every 2 weeks with fungicides (Euparen, Fundazol);
Periodically water the soil with garden preventive preparations or growth stimulants, which include potassium permanganate;
Diseased parts of plants are cut off and burned. Avoid accumulation of fallen dry leaves and branches.

Viral mosaic - disease of roses and their treatment (lat. Rose mosaic virus)

It occurs due to infection by a virus and is transmitted through contaminated tools during pruning and grafting. Infection begins from the lower leaves: they become covered with small light spots and fall off.

The development of rose diseases can be dangerous for the entire garden and the fight against them must begin immediately. Viral mosaic can spread to lilac, currant, gooseberry bushes, and less often raspberries.

Prevention measures against mosaic - a dangerous disease of garden roses

When planting, visually check plants for diseases;
Mandatory disinfection of pruning tools in a 1% iodine solution.

How to protect roses from diseases

Rose seedlings should be planted only in places with constant sunlight and good ventilation, on fertile soil with an acidity level (pH) of at least 6.5-7.6.
With the arrival of March, before the buds bloom, it is necessary to fertilize. The first is urea or manure infusion (in a ratio of 1:20 with water). The second feeding two weeks later is with potassium nitrate for better flowering and rich color.
No fertilizing is needed during flowering.
After cutting the roses, feed with infusion of manure, loosen and mulch the soil.

Surely you will be interested in one of the following topics:

Bottom line

Rose diseases and their treatment take a lot of time and effort. Compliance with agrotechnical rules of planting and care, and preventive protective measures will protect plants from diseases.

One of the most dangerous bacterial diseases to which roses are susceptible is bacterial canker. Many gardeners, when symptoms are detected, refuse to resuscitate affected plants.

This approach is largely justified: the complexity of treatment, severe consequences and contagiousness of the disease make it advisable to destroy the sources of infection. But at an early stage, bacterial cancer in rose bushes is curable, although there is no guarantee of a positive result of therapy.

There are two diseases of roses, which are called bacterial cancer, but they are caused by different pathogens. In both cases, serious damage will be caused to the condition of the plants, and it may even lead to the death of the bushes. A more dangerous form of the disease is cancer that affects the roots of roses.

Bacterial root cancer

The disease is caused by the bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens, which lives in the soil. The microorganism can get into the soil along with water, infected seedlings or on garden tools during digging and loosening. The bacterium can remain viable outside the plant body for 3-4 years. The microorganism penetrates into the rose tissue only through cracks or cuts, so a necessary condition for the development of root cancer is damage to the roots due to replanting, careless loosening or damage by soil pests (mole cricket, chafer larva and others).

The pathogen provokes chaotic cell division, as a result of which lumpy growths grow on the roots and root collar. Rarely, tubercles appear even on stems. The growths can be of any shape and size, and over time they grow and rot. As a result, blood vessels in the root tissues are destroyed, which makes it difficult for moisture and nutrients to flow from the soil to the top of the bush. You can suspect a disease if the general condition of the plants deteriorates - the roses weaken, grow more slowly, and over time the bush dries out.

The difficulty in diagnosis makes the disease especially dangerous - the symptoms that appear on the above-ground part of the bush are not specific. Characteristic swellings on the root collar, from which the gardener, as a rule, guesses the reason for the depletion of the bush, appear when the entire root system is affected by the disease.

The stage of the disease can be determined by the growths on the roots. Newly formed swellings have a light color and soft tissue; they gradually harden, acquiring a “woody” structure and a dark shade. In the late phase of the lesion, the growth begins to rot.

On a note!

Bacterial canker most often affects older rose bushes, whose roots are more susceptible to cracking and other damage. But young plants are the worst to treat.

The development of bacterial cancer in roses is promoted by:

Temperature range +25…+30°C. When raised to +38°C, the pathogen does not show activity.
Soil acidity is within pH 6–9. Once in acidic soil, the bacterium remains viable, but the disease does not develop.
Clay soil. When grown on heavy soils, the likelihood of cracks in the roots is higher. This can happen if the soil dries out or is over-moistened.
Excess nitrogen. The rapid and intense growth of plant cells due to the intake of excessive doses of the element leads to the thinning of their membranes. As a result, the cell’s protection against the penetration of bacteria and viruses also weakens.

Bacterial stem cancer

Stem canker is caused by the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae. Pathogens can enter the plant through air, water, pruning or grafting tools that were not disinfected after working with a diseased bush; the infection is transmitted through insects.

The bacterium tolerates low temperatures well and overwinters in plant tissues, becoming more active with warming. Bacterial canker on stems appears more often and will begin to progress rapidly in early spring, when roses are weakened. To become infected with this type of bacterial cancer, damage to the stem bark is required; the disease is favored by excess moisture in the soil and a decrease in the rose's immunity due to poor wintering.

Depressed areas form on young stems, and brownish-brown ulcers appear under the bark. Over time, the bark in this place dies off, and the entire stem gradually dries out. An accompanying symptom of stem cancer is the appearance of dark, watery spots on the leaves. If the weather is dry, the central part of such a spot dries out and the leaf cracks. During a rainy period, the black spots expand until they cover the entire surface of the leaf blade. After this, the leaf falls from the bush.

Methods for treating rose cancer

Whichever of the two diseases affects roses, treatment makes sense only at the initial stage of cancer development. If the disease progresses significantly, the rose must be destroyed. Dug out bushes, as well as remote areas of the plant, must be burned to prevent bacteria from spreading throughout the garden or flower garden.

Treatment of root cancer

In case of poor-quality treatment, there is a risk of transferring bacteria to a new place during transplantation, so the gardener, when choosing to save the bush, must weigh all the risks and prospects of such a step.

Treatment regimen for bacterial root cancer:

The affected bush should be dug up and the roots should be washed with water, and then rinsed with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
Root shoots on which formations have appeared must be cut back to healthy areas. After each cut of a layer of fabric, the knife must be disinfected with alcohol.
The roots of the bush remaining after pruning should be immersed for 2-3 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate.
Rinse the roots with clean water.
Treat the cut areas with alkyd paint. Let it dry.
Dip the roots into a mixture of sand and clay (thick consistency).

Advice!

Experienced gardeners recommend adding the drug “Fundazol” to paint, and “Heteroauxin” to clay. In the first case, 5 g of powder should be poured into 10 ml of paint, mixed and left to brew for 10-15 minutes. “Heteroauxin” is diluted 1 tablet per liter of mixture.

Plant the bush in a new place.

Treatment of stem cancer

Small affected areas on the stems need to be trimmed, stripping the sections back to healthy tissue. If the leaves are damaged, it is necessary to cut off the entire stem 10 cm below the last spotted leaf. Sections should be disinfected with 5% copper sulfate and covered with drying oil.

Even if the “operation” has a successful outcome, the disease does not go away immediately; roses will need to be treated regularly for about 3 more years. During this period it is necessary:

Regularly inspect the bushes and, if necessary, repeat the procedure for pruning damaged areas.
In the spring (before the juices begin to flow), treat the bush with Bordeaux mixture (2%) or the drug “Nitrophen” (200 g of the product must be diluted in a bucket of water).
After spring treatment, spray the rose with a solution of zinc sulfate (3 g per 10 liters).
At the end of summer, feed the plant with an additional dose of potassium. For irrigation, prepare a solution of 30-40 g of potassium sulfate or 20 g of potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water. For spraying, dilute 10 g and 5 g of the substance in the same volume of water, respectively.
Before covering the rose for the winter, the bushes should be sprayed with 2% Bordeaux mixture.

Preventive measures

General preventative measures that will be effective against both types of cancer are strengthening the immunity and endurance of plants. To do this, it is enough to provide the roses with good care.

In addition, to prevent bacterial and viral infections, it is important to follow sanitary rules. All tools must be disinfected with alcohol, and cuts on plants must be treated with garden varnish or potassium permanganate.

Prevention of root cancer

Even contamination of the soil on a site with bacteria does not mean that the disease will develop. The lifespan of the causative agent of root cancer in roses is 3-4 years. If during this period the bacterium does not find a host plant, it will simply die. Therefore, when caring for roses, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

Do not plant rose bushes in areas where this or other crops susceptible to bacterial root canker have already grown less than 5 years ago.
Avoid planting roses near potentially vulnerable plants. On the contrary, sowing cereals in a flower garden reduces the risk of disease.

Attention!

Bacterial root cancer affects crops such as grapes, cherries, apples, pears, apricots, and raspberries.

Remove soil pests.
Give the last fertilizing with nitrogen no later than mid-June.
Put up a shelter for the winter only in dry weather.

Prevention of stem cancer

The gardener has greater opportunities to prevent this disease - since the disease affects the above-ground part of the bush, preventive treatment with drugs will be effective. Such spraying is carried out 2 times a year: in the spring, before the buds open, and in the fall, before placing the roses in the shelter.

Effective means:

copper sulfate (1%);
Bordeaux mixture (2%);
copper oxychloride (0.4%);
drug "Topsin-M" (0.2%);
"Nitrophen" (2%).

In addition, it is important to prune annually during the dormant season. It may be spring or autumn, but at this moment there should be no movement of juices. The bacterium that gets into the tissue of the bush during pruning, along with the juice, quickly spreads throughout the plant’s body.

Resistant varieties

There are no rose varieties that are uniquely resistant to stem and root cancer. But bush roses are much less likely to be affected by bacterial root cancer than climbing varieties. It was also noted that park roses are highly susceptible to stem cancer.

Anastasia, 36 years old:

“Pruning the roots helps. My bush even bloomed again, although the flowers were very small and there were few of them. But I was prepared for the fact that the bush would have to be destroyed. By the way, they don’t write anywhere about how to properly dig up diseased plants. If a bush is damaged by stem cancer or any fungus, before pulling it out of the ground, I personally cut off diseased leaves and branches, disinfect tools and hands, and then dig up the roots. In this way, we minimize the risk of spreading the infection to other plants.”

Elena, 48 years old:

“Having encountered bacterial canker on the roots of a rose several years ago, I wondered what to do with the infected area. Here is my experience: you need to pour several buckets of boiling water onto the place where the diseased plant grew, after which the bacteria should die. You can also acidify the soil (but this narrows the number of crops that can grow in this place). A solution of citric acid or vinegar is suitable for this. In a bucket of water I dilute 2 tablespoons of acid or 100 ml of vinegar (9%). I pour 1 bucket per square area. Peat seems to me to be a weak agent in terms of killing bacteria, but more beneficial for the soil.”

Healthy!

In order to increase the acidity of the soil, 1.5-2 kg of peat or 70 g of sulfur should be added per 1m2 and dug up.

Maria, 51 years old:

“There have been cases of purchasing infected planting material, so now I treat the seedlings with antibiotics. I usually take Cefotaxime for this, diluting 1 gram in a liter of water. The seedling must be completely immersed in the resulting solution and left for about an hour. Cancer agents, like any bacteria, are vulnerable to such agents. I never had any problems like this again."

Olga, 40 years old:

“I had a rose with bacterial cancer growing in a flower garden, surrounded by other plants. I removed the bush, but I didn’t dare make a fire in this place or do any manipulations with the soil because of the plants surrounding it. As a result, I took out the old primer and replaced it with new one. During the quarantine, I decided to plant ornamental cereals in this place - it’s beautiful, and the cereals are invulnerable to this infection.”

Rose diseases have a negative impact on the appearance of the plant. They are debilitating, and in severe cases can lead to death. In order to avoid these troubles, every owner must be able to properly protect their garden roses. In this article we will talk in detail about what types of lesions there are and how to treat roses against diseases. If the slightest signs of a pathological process are detected, treatment must be started immediately. Experienced gardeners know that it is better to spray roses with special products rather than allow the disease to further spread. Because preventive measures help preserve the beauty of the plant and extend the flowering period.

Diseases and pests of garden roses

Types of diseases of garden roses

Most rose diseases appear due to inattention and failure to comply with basic care rules. Most pathological processes in plants are caused by fungi and bacteria. Thanks to modern medications, they are easily treatable. Viral diseases are rare. Things are much worse with him. Because it is impossible to cure the queen of flowers from this serious illness. All diseases of garden shrubs can be divided into infectious and non-infectious.

Infectious diseases of roses

Powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew on roses

This disease is characterized by the appearance of a whitish coating on the surface of leaves and shoots. It usually appears at temperatures below 18ºC and high humidity. Powdery mildew in the initial stage is characterized by the appearance of small spots, which grow over time and affect the entire flower, disrupting its metabolism. As a result, the garden shrub begins to deform and young shoots die off.

Prevention of rose disease is carried out using an infusion of nettle or a decoction of horsetail, or a drug

Rust.

Rust on roses

It develops due to infection of the above-ground part of the plant by the fungus Phragmidium. The disease of garden roses is manifested by the formation of yellow growths. The shoots begin to twist and crack.

As a preventive measure, it is necessary to prune and thin out dry branches throughout the entire period of active plant growth and spray them with special immunomodulators, Bordeaux mixture 1%, and Topaz and Falcon preparations.

Cortical necrosis.

Infectious burn or stem cancer of roses

This group of diseases is usually caused by fungi. In very rare cases - bacteria. It is characterized by damage to the cambium and bark.

A burn caused by infectious processes in a plant.

Roses that are kept in constant moisture conditions are susceptible to marsupial fungus. On the affected plant, the shoots become covered with brown and then brown spots with a reddish edge. After which shallow ulcers begin to form on the bark. Then brownish growths form in their place and the affected areas dry out.

Common cancer.
Diplodia necrosis of the cortex.
Tubercular death of the cortex.
Diaport cancer of the stem part of the plant.
Drying of branches (cytosporosis).

Absolutely all varieties of roses are susceptible to these diseases. All affected areas of the plant must be cut off and burned.

Preventive treatment is carried out using copper and iron sulfate.

Gray rot.

Gray rot on roses

The disease is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. The debut of the pathological process occurs in the winter. Brownish depressions appear on the stems of the rose, from which gray and fluffy mycelium then grows. Then in its place black growths with spores form. It is also possible for gray mold to appear in the summer due to high rainfall. If roses are not treated for diseases, the plant becomes completely covered with a gray coating and rots.

Damage to the root system caused by rot.

There are 2 diseases in which the root system is affected by rot: tracheomycosis and white sclerotial rot. The pathogen remains viable in the soil for many years. The pathological process is characterized by root rotting, which leads to a cessation of the flow of nutrients to the plant. First the shoots suffer, and then the plant dies.

It is necessary to water the soil with “Fitosporin-M”, “Gamair”.

Diseases caused by bacteria.

These include cancer of the roots and stem parts of garden shrubs. Root cancer is characterized by the formation of growths on the roots, as well as the root collar. At the beginning of the pathological process they are soft, then they harden and rot over time. Cancer of the stem part of the plant appears as brown depressions without a border. In the affected areas of the plant, the bark dies. After which dark spots form on the queen of flowers.

Diseases caused by viral pathogens.

Viral diseases of roses - viral mosaic

Downy mildew on roses

Horticultural crops are affected by viruses such as: tobacco necrosis, tobacco stripe, tobacco curly stripe, tomato bronze, azure mosaic, apple mosaic and many others. If we are talking about a viral infection, then it is a mixed infection, which consists of several types. The symptoms of the pathological process are very similar to each other. To more accurately determine the virus, a number of laboratory tests are necessary. Viral diseases of roses and their treatment begin with the removal and subsequent burning of affected areas of garden shrubs. If the rose is very badly affected by the virus, then it is completely burned. To prevent disease transmission, all garden pruning tools are treated with alcohol or a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

Spotty damage to the foliage of the plant.

Ascochyta. Characterized by the presence of yellowish spots on the leaves, as well as a brownish growth with fungal spores.
Purple. The upper part of the leaf is affected. They show small dark or purple spots bordered by a purple stripe
Brown. On the upper part the leaves are covered with dark spots, and on the lower part they are light without a border.
Black (Marsonina). It affects leaves and, in rare cases, shoots with a whitish coating, which over time becomes black and sticky. The leaves of the garden shrub acquire a dark color and then fall off.
Cercospora (gray). Its manifestations are similar to black spotting. Dark spots no larger than 5 mm appear on the leaves
Ramulariasis of plant leaves. When affected by the disease, the leaves become brown in color, dry out and crumble.
Pestalocy. In the central part of rose leaves, the disease manifests itself as dark brown spots. The yellow stripe clearly delineates the diseased and healthy parts of the plant. Characterized by premature leaf fall.
Downy mildew. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus. It appears as a purple and grayish coating. The most famous and common disease.
Septoria (septoria spotting).
Phyllostictosis (phyllostictosis spotting).

Non-infectious diseases of garden roses

The process of age-related aging.
Chlorosis. Appears when there is an insufficient amount of nutrients in the soil. The leaves of the plant turn pale and yellowish veins appear on them. Chlorosis can appear due to increased acidity of the soil, excess or lack of moisture.
A burn caused by exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
Lack of nutrients in the soil (potassium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, nitrogen).
Toxic effects of fertilizers. Occurs with an increase in the amount of treatment with chemical solutions. When treating a plant with pesticides, air humidity and temperature must be taken into account.

Rules for spring processing of plants

Rose diseases begin to activate after winter, causing plant damage. Therefore, it is very important not to miss this period and carry out preventive treatment of roses. It is during this period that the plant enters the active growth phase.

First you need to remove the winter shelter. Then conduct a thorough inspection of rose bushes for diseases and pests. Now there are a huge number of drugs for treating garden roses against pathological pathogens. Among the large assortment, it is very difficult to choose what to spray roses against diseases in the spring.

Copper sulfate is a proven chemical that has been used for many years for the prevention and treatment of rose diseases in the spring. For this purpose, make a 1% or 3% aqueous solution of copper sulfate. They spray the plant and the soil next to it.

New varieties of garden roses

Breeders from all over the world are constantly trying to develop new varieties of plants that will be less demanding of conditions and habitat. Disease resistant roses These are marked with the ADR sign. Of course, he cannot guarantee in any way that everything will be fine with this particular variety of garden shrub. But the quality mark is awarded only to those varieties that have the best characteristics.

Most garden shrubs marked with this quality mark are quite rare, but some are well known in many countries of the world. Among them you can find: densely double, non-double, ground cover and flowerbed.

The most resistant varieties include the following types of garden roses:

non-double “Escimo”,
bud cover "Crimson Meidiland",
floribundas “Cherry Girl”, “Novalis”,
climbing "Apricola" and many others

If you follow simple care rules and properly feed the plant, you can avoid the occurrence of diseases of garden roses. If you see the first signs of illness, take action immediately. This approach will not only quickly heal your flower, but also protect the entire garden from infection by pathogenic microorganisms. There are now many varieties of garden roses that are disease resistant. But this does not mean that the flowers will not need care.

Preface

The delightful aroma of an indoor rose will not leave any person indifferent, however, in order for the resident of the pot to please the eye for a long time, special attention should be paid to measures to combat all kinds of pests and diseases.

This truly royal flower easily wins hearts, and what a shame when it dies as a result of improper care. In our article we will consider not only means of combating problems that have already arisen, such as pests, fungi and viruses, but also how to prevent them. To do this, you should learn a little more about the characteristics of the plant.

Indoor rose

Rose is the collective name for various representatives of the Rosehip genus. At the same time, the main part of the varieties was obtained through selection. Most species are thermophilic, but there are also individual representatives that survive even in rather harsh climates. It is preferable to place indoor plants on south-facing windows, as they love the sun. If you place this representative of the flora in the shade, then it may not bloom at all.

Preference should be given to neutral soils. But if you want the flower to have a more pronounced color, then you need to plant it in soil with an alkaline reaction. It is very important that the soil is well drained. At the same time, you should not move the newly acquired resident to another pot. You need to let the plant adapt to new conditions and only after that can you start replanting.

Briefly about the variety of these beauties

Now about the most common types of indoor roses. The most popular species can rightfully be called polyanthus and miniature plants. The first were bred by crossing climbing and tea varieties. Such representatives of the flora bloom all year round, and their small double flowers are odorless. But some miniature specimens can fill a room with an amazing aroma. They got their name because of their small size. But despite such compactness, the bushes are covered with dense foliage, and the double inflorescences are distinguished by their elegant shape. The homeland of such roses is China.

More rare representatives include hybrid tea varieties, which were bred by crossing remontant and tea roses. The main difference between this type is its delicate, refined aroma and rather large flowers.

Most varieties of indoor roses are susceptible to various diseases, and only with proper care for the inhabitants of the pot can you grow a strong plant with good immunity. It is imperative to maintain the desired temperature. Despite the fact that the flower is heat-loving, during the dormant period from October to February it is better to keep it in a cool room. Don’t forget to regularly ventilate the room, even if it’s frosty outside, and in the summer, move the resident of the pot to the balcony or garden.

The soil should not be allowed to dry out, as the plant will not recover well after this. Water the soil with warm water and apply fertilizer in a timely manner. It is better to fertilize once every two weeks. To maintain the desired level of humidity, it is necessary not only to water the soil, but also to spray the leaves.

Rose pruning

It is best to replant in the spring and be extremely careful so as not to disturb the root system. Carefully remove the earthen ball with roots and place it in a new pot of slightly larger volume. In this case, the top layer of soil should be removed; it has a characteristic white coating - escaping salt.

It is also important to carry out timely pruning. In spring, all weak and small branches are removed. It is enough to leave only 5 well-developed shoots. If their wood is sufficiently mature, then these shoots are cut to 3–6 eyes; on shoots of moderate growth, 4–5 can be left. But weak branches are shortened by only 3 eyes. Then the representative of the flora must be immediately taken to a cool place, and as soon as the first green leaves appear, we place the flower in a well-lit window. It is worth noting that the cooler the room is, the longer the rest period will last.

Now we will talk about fungal diseases that most often affect indoor rose varieties. They are quite difficult to diagnose, are contagious and can only be treated with certain drugs. Most often, the fungus affects the weakest representatives of the flora. High humidity combined with high temperature are optimal conditions for its development. Quite often such diseases are introduced with soil, dust, or newly acquired green inhabitants.

If spots are found on the surface of the leaves, then most likely we are talking about a disease such as leaf spot. If you ignore the danger, you risk saying goodbye to the flower, since the spots will increase in size over time, and as a result, the green foliage will simply dry out and fall off. Most often, yellow roses are susceptible to this disease. Mostly symptoms appear in the second half of the growing season.

Rose spotting

Contributes to the spread of fungus: thickening of the crown, excessive humidity and poor ventilation, too dense soil in the pot. Having noticed the affected areas, immediately remove them and treat the plant with copper or sulfur containing preparations. In addition, until complete recovery, avoid spraying with plain water and pay special attention to watering. Treating roses with a special antifungal soap has also worked well.

This most common fungal disease has the most negative effect on the general condition of the plant and leads to its complete death. It can be identified by a white coating on the leaves, which gradually spreads to the stems and even buds. The affected parts should be removed immediately before the fungus spreads to healthy branches. But at an advanced stage, you should completely cut off the flower at the root. It is enough to leave small shoots about 5 cm high. Next, you need to treat the rose, soil and even the flower pot with foundationazole or another special product. Spraying is repeated several times.

Powdery mildew on leaves

Excessive fertilizer and lack of fresh air contribute to this fungal disease. The peak of its activity is the period when a significant temperature difference begins between day and night.

There is another disease with similar symptoms - downy mildew. But only in this case, the plaque mainly spreads along the inside of the leaf and primarily affects wet areas. The leaves are covered with purple or light spots on top. On the Internet you can find photos with symptoms. Control measures also have similarities with the previous disease. All affected parts are removed, and the plant is treated several times with fungicides. In order to enhance the effect, it is recommended to change the drug each time.

In addition to fungal ones, there are also. One of the most terrible ailments of roses can rightly be called bacterial cancer. In this case, the stems and even the roots of the plant, depending on the type of disease, become covered with lumpy growths or rounded depressed spots. The affected areas gradually die off, but the bacteria continue to live in the soil for several more years.

To avoid mass infection, it is not enough to simply remove the affected areas; they should be disinfected in a solution of copper sulfate for several minutes. Under no circumstances throw away the soil in which the infected plant grew in your garden or vegetable garden, as you risk being left without a harvest for several years.

Infectious burn on a rose

Rose jaundice is also dangerous. The causative agent of this infection is carried by pests such as psyllids and leafhoppers. The disease can be identified by the yellowed veins of young leaves. In addition, over time, the leaves themselves begin to lighten and become deformed; if no action is taken, larger areas of yellow color appear, and the plant weakens. Affected areas are cut off and burned. And if the flower cannot be saved, then it should also be burned.

But these are not all diseases; it is worth paying attention to the rose wilt virus. In this case, the buds do not set, the leaves become narrower and gradually dry out, and the young shoots do not grow. As a result, the bushes dry out completely. The same measures to combat the disease are applied as in the previous case.

There is also an infectious burn. Spots with dry areas in the center appear on the leaves. Their color can be either light brown or darker. Characteristic is the crimson edging. The affected areas rapidly increase in size with poor ventilation. After the spots ring the shoot, it dies completely. It is best to cut off the infected shoots, but if the disease has not yet developed, you can save the plant without such radical action. It is necessary to completely clean off the stain with a knife and cover the already healthy tissue with Rannet.

Regardless of the disease, the tools used for pruning must be disinfected. They are treated with either a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol, otherwise there is a risk of transferring the infection to other plants and losing them. In addition, do not underestimate the danger that they can pose, because they not only spoil the flora themselves, but also carry various viruses.

Let's start with the most dangerous pest, which is practically impossible to avoid. The main reason for its appearance can be called insufficient humidity in the room. Therefore, for prevention, the plant should be regularly sprayed and even bathed in the shower. The mite mainly appears in late autumn and winter, because during this period many owners of indoor roses do not pay enough attention to the existing microclimate and allow the soil to dry out.

Signs of a spider mite

To reduce the likelihood of damage to a minimum, even newly purchased plants should be treated with special non-toxic preparations. Garlic infusion will do the job perfectly. To prepare it you will need a liter of water and 170 g of vegetables. The product is infused for 5 days. You can also use tobacco infusion, and sprinkle a small layer of mustard powder or wood ash on the ground. Prevention is repeated several times a year. Some of the most effective, yet non-toxic chemicals are Strela, Actellik, Neoron. “Akarin” and “Vertimek” have also proven themselves well. The flower is completely sprayed with the solution, and for a better effect it is recommended to treat the earthen ball as well. The procedure is repeated 3 times with an interval of 7 days.

Small pests are usually located on the underside of leaves and look like small red, red or dark brown dots. After slightly wetting the flower, you can see how the mite begins to move. The larvae of this insect are light-colored and are also found on the green part of the plant. Over time, the foliage turns brown and falls off.

Of course, rose diseases cause enormous damage to indoor flowers, but insects should not be underestimated. For example, small beetles settle inside a flower and gnaw through its leaves. But caterpillars can not only make small holes in the green parts of the plant, but also gnaw them completely. You can get rid of such unwanted guests with the help of preparations containing karbofos.

If the leaves of a flower are deformed, and the plant itself lags behind in development, then, most likely, it was struck by the roseate sawfly. The females of this insect lay eggs under the bark of a representative of the flora world. But this is not the worst thing; such a pest feeds on young buds and shoots of roses, which causes incredible damage. To destroy the sawfly, the plant should be treated with special carbophosphate-containing preparations or fufanon. But insecticidal agents are indispensable if the rose is affected by scale insects. You can recognize it by the brown plaques that cover the foliage and stem. In addition, the plant lags behind in development, sheds its leaves, and if you ignore the symptoms and do not provide timely assistance, it will die altogether.

rose sawfly

You can find out that the plant has been infected by cut aphids by the following symptoms. Firstly, young shoots and buds will be infested with colonies of small pests. Secondly, the foliage of the flower will take on an unnatural appearance, begin to curl, become deformed, and eventually dry out altogether. Timely treatment with tobacco infusion or soap solution will help overcome the problem. Moreover, if you decide to give preference to the second remedy, you should use insecticidal soap.

An infusion of yarrow has also proven itself well. To prepare it, fill half a liter jar with dried herbs and fill it with water. The product is infused for 3–4 days. To enhance the effect, you can add a small piece of soap. There are also chemicals that can help fight this insect. These include pyrethrum, actellik and other products based on karbofos. If the colonies are insignificant, then you can deal with them using the biological method by placing several ladybugs on the plant.

Consequences of improper care

Pests and diseases can deprive you of your pet, but sometimes we ourselves can cause such a loss by making mistakes during care. For example, a change in living conditions can lead to the drying out of a flower. In this case, the previous microclimate should be restored and pruning should be carried out. And excessive humidity and excessive irrigation will lead to rotting. Reviving such a plant is a rather difficult task. To do this, remove the rose from the pot and cut off the rotten roots. Next, we transplant the plant into new soil and do not allow it to overflow. At the same time, complete drying out of the soil should be avoided.

But insufficient watering leads to drying out of the plant and without proper care the problem cannot be solved. All dead shoots should be removed, but only so that a few centimeters remain to the trunk. Then we water the resident of the pot and place it under a plastic bag. This way you can ensure the desired humidity. As soon as young shoots appear, you need to start ventilating the “greenhouse” so that the plant gets used to dry air.

Rose, like the true queen of the garden, requires special attention. If the growing rules are not followed or if weather conditions are unfavorable, roses develop various diseases caused by fungi, bacteria, and viruses. Treating rose diseases is always more difficult than preventing their development. Therefore, always try to take preventive measures to prevent diseases.

Disease Prevention

To protect these beautiful flowers from diseases, it is important to take a number of preventive measures:

Pruning and destruction of weak and diseased shoots, dried leaves and other plant debris on which pathogenic fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
To prevent diseases, rose bushes are sprayed with chemical and biological preparations with a wide spectrum of action: Alirin-B, Skor, Topaz, etc.
Periodic inspections of rose bushes are necessary so as not to miss the onset of the disease and its spread to neighboring plants. An advanced disease is difficult to treat and can lead to the death of the rose.
Do not overfeed plants with nitrogen fertilizers, and in the second half of summer, completely exclude nitrogen from fertilizing.
Periodic fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers increases the plant's resistance to disease.

Rose diseases are divided into fungal, bacterial and viral. This article provides descriptions, photos and methods of treating the following diseases:

Powdery mildew

The spread of this disease is facilitated by dense plantings, prolonged summer rains, a large difference in day and night temperatures, and excessive application of nitrogen with fertilizing. First of all, powdery mildew affects young green shoots and leaves.

Powdery mildew on roses

Description of the disease

Fungal spores that fall on the plant germinate and form whitish powdery spots on the leaves and shoots, which gradually grow. The rose bush is covered with an ash-gray powdery coating. The leaves dry out, the shoots become deformed and stop developing.

Treatment options

If signs of disease are detected, leaves and shoots with plaque should be immediately trimmed and destroyed.
Spray the bushes with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. The working solution is prepared immediately before use. Take 100 g of sulfur per bucket of water. The foliage is sprayed from the top and bottom in dry, windless weather.
For severe damage, the following drugs are effective: Skor, Topaz, Fundazol, Vitaros. Fungicides need to be alternated, because the fungus develops resistance to drugs.

Folk remedies

Traditional methods of treatment work at the initial stage of rose bush disease and as prevention.

4 g of soda ash is stirred in 1 liter of hot water, add 4 g of soap shavings. The resulting solution is sprayed onto the diseased plant twice at weekly intervals.
A third of the bucket with fresh mullein is filled with water and left for three days. The mixture is stirred periodically. The resulting infusion is diluted with water 1:10 and sprayed on rose bushes in the evening.
Mix 1 kg of ash with 10 liters of water and leave for two days. Add 40 g of soap shavings and spray the affected bushes twice with a week's break.

Prevention measures

Timely removal and destruction of fallen leaves and weeds on which fungal spores may persist.
From mid-summer, feed only potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Excess nitrogen fertilizer reduces the resistance of roses to powdery mildew.
In the spring after removing the cover and in late autumn, spray the rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, 0.4% copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Plant varieties of roses resistant to powdery mildew.
Avoid dense planting of bushes.

Rust of roses

The disease is caused by a rust fungus, the spores of which are carried by wind or insects. Humid and warm weather favors the development of rust. This disease spreads easily and is difficult to treat.

This is what a plant affected by rust looks like.

Description of the disease

In the initial stage of the disease, bright red spots appear on the leaves of the rose. If you look at the underside of the leaf, you can see these orange sporulation tubercles in these places. This is the spring stage of rust fungus development.

With further development of the disease, the pustules acquire a brownish-rusty color. Yellow-red spots spread throughout the entire leaf blade, the leaves dry out and fall off. The shoots crack, bend and dry out. At the autumn stage of development, the pustules become dark. In this form, the fungus overwinters on infected parts of the plant.

Treatment methods

All leaves and shoots with orange spots are cut off and burned.
Spraying the rose and the soil around the bush with a solution of fungicides: Titan, Strobi, Falcon, Bayleton. Treatments should be carried out repeatedly with a two-week break, changing the preparations.
Spraying roses with copper-containing preparations: hom, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate.

Folk remedies for treating rust

For 10 liters of warm water, take 1.5 kg of crushed milkweed stems. The mixture is infused for 24 hours in a warm place. The resulting infusion is filtered and used to spray the leaves.

Disease Prevention

Pruning and destruction of diseased plant parts and weeds.
Spraying bushes and soil around in late autumn and early spring with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, 3% solution of iron sulfate.
Autumn digging of the earth near the bushes.

Downy mildew or downy mildew of roses

Downy mildew is a fungal disease of roses that spreads in conditions of high humidity. Cool, rainy weather, sudden changes in temperature at night and during the day with heavy dew contribute to the development of the disease. The fungus reproduces by zoospores, which move quickly in water. For infection, a damp film on the leaves is enough for the zoospores to penetrate the stomata of the leaf and begin their destructive work.

Rainy weather promotes the development of the disease.

Description of the disease

Downy mildew on roses appears as a light grayish or purple coating on the underside of the leaves. The fungal spores grow through the leaf tissue, and red and violet-brown spots appear on the surface of the leaf blade. The leaves turn yellow and fall off literally within two to three days. The disease primarily affects the upper young leaves.

With further spread, spots may appear on the shoots, the buds may become deformed, and the outer petals darken and fall off. In the hot, dry summer the disease stops, but closer to autumn it begins with renewed vigor.

Treatment methods

Destruction of infected leaves and shoots.
For treatment, solutions of drugs are used: Ridomil Gold, Thanos, Alirin-B, Gamair, Profit. Spray roses and the soil around the bush every 10-14 days.

Traditional methods of treating the disease

1 liter of skim milk (skimmed milk) is mixed with 9 liters of water and 10 drops of a 5% alcohol solution of iodine are added. The resulting mixture is used to spray the bushes.
Pour 1 glass of ash into 2 liters of boiled water, add water to 10 liters. Filter the solution and spray the roses.

Preventive measures

Pruning and destruction of affected leaves, shoots and plant debris.
In late autumn and early spring, spray with solutions of preparations containing copper.
Fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers improves plant resistance to disease.

Black spot or marsonina rose

Black spot is a common fungal disease of roses that develops in damp, warm weather, in dense plantings, and with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

This disease begins to spread from the bottom up.

Description of the disease

Black spotting begins to spread from the lower leaves to the top of the bush. Green shoots may also be affected. Dark brown and black spots with jagged, blurry edges appear on the foliage. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. Without treatment, the rose bush may lose all its foliage and remain bare. The shoots will not have time to ripen and prepare for winter. With a high probability, such a bush will die in winter.

How to treat the disease

It is necessary to remove and destroy all damaged leaves and weak thin shoots.
Spray with fungicides three to six times with a one-week break, alternating the preparations. Good results are given by Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Fundazol.

Traditional methods of treatment

Traditional methods are best used to prevent black spotting.

Spraying with mullein infusion. 1 part mullein is mixed with 10 parts water and infused for several days.
Pour 200 g of onion peel into 10 liters of water and heat to a boil. Leave for 8 hours. Strain the infusion and spray the rose bushes and the ground around.

Prevention

Before covering roses for the winter, remove all foliage and weak shoots, clear the ground around of plant sediments.
In early spring and late autumn, spray roses and surrounding soil with 3% iron or copper sulfate.
Do not overfeed with nitrogen, but from mid-summer exclude nitrogen from fertilizing.
Fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers increases the resistance of plants to fungal diseases, incl. to black spotting.
Spraying with Fitosporin serves as good protection against many fungal diseases.

Among the fungal diseases of roses there are leaf spots that appear in much the same way as black spot: Septoria leaf blight, phyllosticosis of leaves, purple rose spot, grayish spot (cercospora). Determining what type of spot has affected a rose can be difficult. But all these rose diseases can be treated in the same way as black spot.

Infectious rose burn

An infectious burn develops in conditions of poor ventilation and high humidity. Such conditions are created under cover during thaws in winter.

In the photo there is an infectious burn of roses

Description of the disease

In early spring, black spots with a characteristic red-burgundy border appear on the shoots. With further development of the disease, the spots increase and ring the stem, the bark cracks and peels off. Sick shoots inevitably die.

How to treat an infectious burn on roses

If signs of disease are detected, all damaged parts must be cut out to healthy tissue. Cover the cut areas with garden varnish. Severely affected shoots must be cut out completely. Spray the bush with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Preventive measures to prevent illness

Before sheltering, you need to remove all leaves and weak shoots from the bush, and plant debris from the ground near the bush.
Roses should be covered for the winter in dry, cold weather.
Before covering, treat the bush and the soil around it with a 3% solution of iron sulfate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
In the spring, open the roses as soon as weather conditions allow and spray with a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride (CHOM) or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Bacterial diseases of roses

Bacterial root canker is caused by bacteria that live in the soil. Bacteria penetrate roots and shoots through cracks and wounds caused during planting or pruning with tools or caused by pests.

The photo shows bacterial root cancer

Description of the disease

Bacteria attack root tissue cells, which begin to divide uncontrollably. Light soft growths and swellings appear on the roots and root collar. They grow, become dark and hard. Subsequently, the growths rot. Plants affected by cancer develop poorly, wither and subsequently die.

Treatment of the disease

If cancer is detected early, you can try to cure the plant. The bush needs to be dug up and the roots and shoots with growths need to be cut off. Immerse the root in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 5 minutes, then rinse with water and dip in a clay mash. It is better to burn heavily affected bushes.

Preventive measures

Before planting roses, disinfect the roots in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, rinse in water, and dip in clay mash.

Water the planted bushes at the root with a solution of Fitolavin or Phytoplasmin. Preventive watering can be done several times.
Organic fertilizers enrich the soil with antagonistic bacteria, which inhibit the development of bacterial cancer.

Bacterial stem cancer

Bacteria are spread by insects, wind, rain and affect young shoots of roses.

Bacterial cancer on a rose trunk.

Description of the disease

Dark brown spots form on young shoots. Subsequently, deep ulcers form at the site of the spots, nutrition and shoot growth are disrupted. Black spots appear on the foliage. Affected stems dry out, leaves turn black and fall off.

Treatment of the disease

Trim diseased areas to healthy tissue. Disinfect the cut areas with a 5% solution of copper sulfate and cover with oil paint. Severely affected and dried shoots are cut out and destroyed.
If the disease has spread greatly throughout the bush, then it is better to dig up such a rose and burn it.

Prevention of stem cancer

Treating rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate before covering for the winter and in the spring after removing the cover. A 1% Bordeaux mixture is also suitable for spraying.

Viral diseases of roses

Viral infections appear on the foliage in the form of a variety of alternating light and dark green spots of various shapes. This may be a mosaic pattern or ring spotting. The leaves and buds are deformed, the rose is stunted and blooms poorly.

There are several types of rose viral diseases with similar symptoms. Only a specialist can determine which virus has infected the plant.
Viral wilt

With viral wilting, the bush stops developing, the leaves become narrow, thread-like and dry out. Gradually the bush dies.

What does a diseased bush look like?

The mosaic virus infected the rose bush.

Small yellowish or light green spots appear on the leaves, which spread throughout the entire leaf blade, forming a mosaic pattern. Depending on the type of virus, the spots can be of different shapes and spread to young shoots and buds. Deformation of leaves and petals occurs. The bushes are stunted and bloom poorly.

To date, there are no effective drugs to treat viral diseases. You can stop the development of the disease by cutting off diseased leaves and sections of stems. Rose bushes that are severely affected by the virus must be removed from the garden so that the disease does not spread to other plants.

Prevention of viral diseases

Timely identification and destruction of infected bushes.

Fight against aphids, nematodes, thrips and other sucking insects that carry diseases.

Disinfection of garden tools after working with diseased plants. For processing, you can use alcohol, 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

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