Insulating a garage with plaster. Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage from the inside - protecting your car. General rules for walls

















Insulating a garage is a process that worries many owners of this small building today. Everyone began to understand that a car lasts much longer in a warm room. Therefore, in this article we will talk about insulation methods, how to insulate a garage from the inside and outside, and what aspects of the insulation process should be paid attention to first.

Insulated garage from the inside, lined with OSB slabs Source roomester.ru

What is the best way to insulate: outside or inside?

According to all construction canons, the best option is insulation from the outside. The thing is that the boundary between the thermal insulation material and the sheathing is the zone where condensation forms. And if you do insulation from the inside, then this zone falls between the insulation and the walls of the garage. At the same time, the latter freeze completely (through and through) in winter, which negatively affects the building material. Plus, condensation, which reduces performance characteristics any building material.

This is the first reason. The second is the ability not to reduce useful space in the garage. Insulation installed on walls takes up some space. Here you will have to add the thickness of the skin. That is, on each side of the walls there will be a reduction of approximately 3-5 cm.

The third reason makes it possible not to pay attention to the environmental friendliness of the thermal insulation material. It will be located on the outside, street side, which means that if the insulation releases substances harmful to humans, they will immediately evaporate. Moreover, such materials are much cheaper than environmentally friendly ones.

Insulating the garage from the outside Source remstroiblog.ru

But it is not always possible to insulate the garage walls from the outside. If for some reason this cannot be done, then all thermal insulation work is moved inside.

Overview of the thermal insulation materials market

Before moving on to the insulation process itself garage structure, let's talk about insulation. About those that are used today for this purpose. There is a fairly large layer of building materials of this type that builders use today. There are traditional materials here, and others that have appeared recently, but have already gained popularity.

Mineral wool

This insulation has been used in construction for a long time. At the very beginning of its appearance it was a material roll type. Today it is still produced in this version, but modern form mineral wool is slabs. That's what they call them mineral wool slabs.

It should be noted that a fairly wide range of materials is used as raw material in mineral wool slabs. But basalt-based insulation is very popular. This thermal insulation material is presented on the market in slabs of different densities and thicknesses. This makes it easier to select according to the required characteristics.

Mineral wool boards are a popular insulation material Source 2gis.kz

The only drawback of mineral wool is its hygroscopicity. That is, this material absorbs moisture well, while losing its thermal characteristics. To prevent this from happening, the heat-insulating layer is covered with waterproofing films on both sides. Today, manufacturers offer moisture-resistant boards from mineral wool, in which hygroscopicity is reduced to the maximum. This makes it possible to refuse waterproofing.

Won't talk about everyone technical specifications mineral wool. Let us designate the most significant one, according to which you need to choose insulation. This is the thermal conductivity of the material.

On a note! Thermal conductivity is the property of a material or body to transfer heat. The lower this parameter, the better in terms of insulation.

So for mineral wool this characteristic is 0.035-0.04 W/m K.

Expanded polystyrene boards

Many people call this material foam plastic, which is fundamentally wrong, although both materials are included in the group of foamed plastics made from polystyrene. It’s just polystyrene foam – a material originally created for packaging. He doesn't have high density and low thermal insulation qualities. The same cannot be said about expanded polystyrene, which was originally developed as a thermal insulation material.

Expanded polystyrene boards are moisture resistant Source www.stroyportal.ru

This foam insulation has serious advantages:

  • thermal conductivity– 0.028-0.034 W/m K;
  • extruded version does not absorb moisture;
  • misses air through itself;
  • strength– 1 kg/cm²;
  • inert to many chemicals;
  • on the surface of the insulation don't live mold and fungi;
  • this one good soundproofer;
  • life time- 30 years.

But polystyrene foam boards also have their drawbacks. And the most important of them is fire hazard. The insulation burns well and maintains combustion, while emitting acrid smoke. Today, manufacturers are trying to change the situation with this indicator. Fire-resistant boards have already appeared on the market, but there are not many of them.

And one more point that you need to pay attention to when choosing expanded polystyrene as insulation. This is the brand of material. The optimal option for a garage is PSB-S-35 (40) - self-extinguishing, with a density of 40 kg/m³. The thickness of the slabs should not be less than 50 mm.

Expanded polystyrene boards brand PSB-S-35 Source karkasdomproekt.ru

Polyurethane foam

This is a two-component material, the ingredients of which are mixed before application. In my own way physical condition is a foamed semi-liquid mass that hardens in air, forming a hydrophobic layer on the insulated surface. That is, not afraid of moisture.

Application of polyurethane foam requires special equipment. It is applied under pressure from a hose with a nozzle. The high adhesive characteristics of the material give it the ability to adhere to any surfaces that are previously cleaned of dirt and rust. In this case, the mixture fills all the cracks, gaps and holes.

This is a non-flammable insulation. Service life – 50 years. Thermal conductivity – 0.019-0.028 W/m K. moisture absorption is minimal – 1.2%.

Layer of applied polyurethane foam Source foamshop.ru

Warm plaster

Its name is this plaster mortar received because manufacturers add particles of heat-insulating material to its composition. These can be polystyrene foam granules, so-called crumbs, vermiculite (foamed rock of volcanic origin), sawdust and other ingredients.

In fact, such a plaster mixture has higher thermal insulation characteristics than ordinary plaster. But to achieve a good effect, the material must be applied in a sufficiently thick layer. It is used both for insulating the garage from the inside and for thermal insulation from the outside. It is understandable if the garage is built from bricks, blocks or concrete slabs. For a metal structure this option is unacceptable.

Warm plaster is applied to the wall in a thick layer Source tk101.ru

So, we have looked at the main thermal insulation materials that are most often used today when insulating a garage building. Of course, this is not the entire list of proposed options. They just use these more often.

Most often, many consumers are looking for how to insulate a garage from the inside inexpensively. The table provides a comparison of prices for the described insulation materials.

The price range for each material is quite wide. This is explained by the fact that the basis for pricing is the thickness of the insulation and its density. From the table it is clear that the most inexpensive option– these are mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards.

The most economical thermal insulation materials Source krysha-expert.ru

Insulation technologies

Having dealt with the question of how to insulate a garage, we move directly to the process itself. Let's start with external insulation. The simplest option is plastering. Everything is quite simple here. Warm plaster is applied to the external surfaces of the garage walls using standard technology. That is, they throw it onto the surface with a trowel and level it with the rule according to the installed beacons.

There is an option mechanized plaster. For this purpose, special stations are used in which they prepare plaster mixture and from it they immediately apply it to the walls under pressure. In this way, insulation can also be carried out from the inside of the room.

Video description

Without going into details technological process, we suggest watching a video that tells you how to properly apply warm plaster to walls in two ways:

Expanded polystyrene boards for external insulation

If the garage is built from bricks or blocks, then polystyrene foam boards can simply be attached to wall surfaces, laying them tightly together. There are two mounting methods:

  • on mushroom-shaped screws or more precisely, dowel-nails for insulating materials;
  • on the adhesive composition.

Usually the first one is used, because glue for polystyrene foam is an expensive thing. It is sold in cans. The contents are applied to the back of the slab in the corners and in the middle. And then they just press him to the wall.

As for self-tapping screws, this is special fasteners made of plastic, consisting of two parts: dowel and nail. Under the first one, a hole is made through the insulation in the wall into which the dowel is inserted. At the same time, its wide cap will hold the insulating board. After which the second part is hammered into it, which bursts open the first.

Dowel-nail for insulation boards Source de.decorexpro.com

Typically, two fasteners are used for each slab. When laying thermal insulation, it is very important to ensure that there are no gaps or cracks between its elements. It is optimal to use slabs with a tongue-and-groove connection for this purpose. If ordinary slabs with smooth edges are used, then when gaps form between them, the latter are filled with special foam. It is similar to the assembly one, only it does not expand in volume when exposed to air.

How polystyrene foam boards are attached to the wall with mushroom-shaped nails Source stroyfora.ru

An interesting fact is that a wall insulated with polystyrene foam can be plastered. To do this, a synthetic plaster mesh is laid on it and the plaster layer itself is applied. You can also lay insulation under a ventilated facade, for which you will first have to assemble the frame, lay thermal insulation in it, and then install it on top finishing material. The photo above shows this option for finishing and insulating the external walls of the garage.

Mineral wool for external insulation

For mineral wool slabs it is better to build a ventilated façade. That is, a frame is assembled on the walls of the garage either from wooden slats or from galvanized metal profiles used for installation plasterboard sheets. Outdoors it is better to use a moisture-resistant option. But even when using it, it is recommended to cover the thermal insulation layer with a waterproofing membrane.

Insulating garage walls with mineral wool from the outside Source pt.decorexpro.com

Here is the sequence of assembly of an insulated ventilated facade:

  1. Mounted on the wall straight hangers, on which the sheathing elements will be mounted. The distance between them vertically and horizontally is 50-60 cm.
  2. Installation of insulation. It doesn't matter how wide the material is. It can be easily installed directly on the mounted hangers by making holes with a knife. The main thing is to install the mineral wool slabs tightly to each other.
  3. Installation of sheathing elements.
  4. Laying waterproofing in the form of horizontal membrane strips that are attached to the frame and overlap each other. The joints must be secured with self-adhesive tape.
  5. Sheathing installation: siding, decorative boards, etc.

Eat frameless option insulation of garage walls. To do this, mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards are attached to the walls with dowel nails. And then covered with brick. Under the latter you will have to pour a narrow foundation.

External insulation garage with subsequent brick lining Source skb21.ru

Internal insulation of the garage

In principle, everything that was described above can be transferred inside the garage building. These technologies are also applicable here. The only thing that was not noted was polyurethane foam. There are fewer problems with him. If the garage is brick or block, then a sheathing is first installed on the walls, which will subsequently be used for finishing. It's better to use here wooden blocks, which are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws and dowels.

The foam is applied in a layer equal to the thickness of the frame elements. After hardening, a seamless thermal insulation layer with sufficiently high strength is formed on the treated surfaces.

By the way, it is in this way that it is convenient and effective to insulate garages assembled from metal profiles and sheet iron.

Insulating a garage with polyurethane foam from the inside Source garage-s.ru

Insulation from the inside of a metal garage

This building consists of a frame made of steel angle or profile pipe, sheathed on the outside metal sheets or corrugated sheets. That is, it turns out that the garage frame is located inside. And it automatically becomes a frame for finishing. So between finishing and outer skin You can lay a thermal insulation layer.

If polystyrene foam boards are used, they are attached to a steel surface adhesive composition. The main requirement for installation is a tight fit of the plates to each other.

Iron garage lined inside polystyrene foam boards– before finishing Source isolux.ru

If mineral wool is used, then they are not glued to the metal. To do this, select the slabs in width so that they fit between the frame elements in tension. If the distance between the sheathing elements is greater than the maximum width of the insulation, then wooden blocks are installed between the garage frame, reducing the distance.

And as for polyurethane foam. This is the best option for insulating the inside of the garage.

Video description

The video shows how a garage is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam:

Insulation of the floor and ceiling in the garage

The floor is easiest. This is a thick concrete screed, under which you just need to lay insulation. Expanded clay is most often used for this. They do it like this:

  1. At the garage site digging a pit up to 50 cm deep.
  2. into it fill with crushed stone layer 15 cm.
  3. Then sand layer 15 cm with compaction.
  4. Cover with roofing felt in two perpendicular layers.
  5. Expanded clay is poured.
  6. Another waterproofing layer.
  7. Lay the reinforcing grid from steel reinforcement.
  8. Pouring concrete.

You don’t have to fill in expanded clay, but use expanded clay concrete mortar instead of concrete. Instead of expanded clay, you can fill in perlite or lay polystyrene foam boards.

Layers of insulated garage floor Source mirstrojka.ru

As for the insulation of the ceiling, everything will depend on what this building element of the garage structure is.

  1. If this concrete floor slab, then it’s better to collect suspended structure, in which the insulation is placed. You can use warm plaster.
  2. If this metal roof , then the optimal solution is to treat it with polyurethane foam.
  3. Since the roof metal garage assembled, like the walls, in the form of a frame sheathed on the outside with iron, then between the elements of the sheathing you can lay slab insulation . The technology is the same as on the walls.

Video description

The video shows one of the insulation options garage ceiling:

Conclusion on the topic

Thermal insulation of a garage is minimum expenses, even if you use expensive polyurethane foam. The main task is to carry out the above processes correctly, taking into account the design of the building and the characteristics of the insulation. But for this, it is recommended to contact professionals who will complete all the work quickly and efficiently.

Garage for vehicle should be with the same comfortable temperature conditions as an apartment or house for a person. Because sudden changes are unfavorable for the car and can cause corrosion due to condensation.

IN winter season It is possible to achieve a balance of indicators if specific measures are taken to achieve this. For example, insulate walls, a garage roof, or take care of room heating. All these methods will give positive results, and the created climate will keep the car in its original form for a long time.

Of course, the cost of thermal insulation requires considerable investment. If the garage is part of the house, then the costs are well worth it. And in case separate room for this building, the problem of cost-effectiveness of building materials for the owner comes first.

In this case it is usually used traditional insulation, which protect the garage from low temperatures. In addition, they are also capable of maintaining sound insulation. Such insulation is divided into several types: fiberglass, mineral wool and polymer.

The optimal method, which contains several advantages: low cost, easy installation, not afraid of moisture, affordable price etc.

In the past, garages were often insulated with the materials listed above. Although they are still applicable, they are still being replaced by new technologies.

So, thermal insulation novelties have great benefits and useful qualities. They do an excellent job even when arranging problem areas.

For example, penoizol is a liquid foam. Using foam, you can easily and quickly fill the space without leaving gaps or visible seams. Hardens quickly and is safe (does not burn, waterproof).

A liquid heat insulator perfectly insulates metal constructions. It visually looks like paint, and they cover the surface with it, applying it with an ordinary brush.

Watch the video showing the technology of insulating a garage using polyurethane foam

Unique properties sprayed polyurethane foam insulation , which is used to cover walls using special equipment. The resulting dense thin crust retains heat well.

The above modern insulation materials are not yet as widely used as classic material. But with their help, it is much faster and more efficient to thermally insulate a garage, and in a very short time.

Just 10-15 years ago, garages were built without insulation of walls, floors and ceilings. Therefore, in the cold season, use the room in in full it was impossible. With the advent of modern and inexpensive insulation, garage construction and finishing technologies have reached a new qualitative level. It has become possible to insulate a garage with your own hands.

There are two ways:

  • Insulating the garage from the outside. This is not always possible to do in garage areas, where the outer wall of the insulated garage is internal to the neighboring building.
  • Insulating garage walls from the inside. Can be done in any location of the building.

Garages are often insulated with inside. Before you start work, you need to calculate the dew point. If you do not take this parameter into account, the walls will get wet and fungus will appear.

Before you insulate the garage from the inside, you need to figure out what materials are used. Find out their positive and negative properties.

The interior of the garage consists of the floor, walls, ceiling and gate. Each is insulated separately:

  • We insulate the walls with polystyrene foam, mineral wool, plaster, foam insulation ( liquid foam), polyurethane foam;
  • Expanded clay is used for the floor, less often polystyrene foam;
  • foam plastic, penoizol or mineral wool are used for the ceiling;
  • the gates are lined with foam plastic.

An important indicator for all materials in this group is thermal conductivity. Below is a summary table of averages:

The insulation of a garage from the inside is not made from blocks. New boxes for cars are built from them.

Lightweight porous insulation for the floor or foundation of a garage; it is a cheap material. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is approximately 1.5 times higher than that of foam plastic, but 10 times lower than that of brickwork. This puts it in the middle position in terms of thermal protection. Not used for insulating garage walls.

Fired expanded clay has a water absorption coefficient of no more than 20%, it is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, and does not burn. Expanded clay is harmless to the body, as it does not emit harmful fumes.

Mineral wool

This is a class of artificial insulation with a fibrous structure. It consists of rocks, glass and slag. Insulating garage walls from the inside with mineral wool is very common due to its high thermal insulation characteristics. According to this indicator, mineral wool is on the same level as foam plastic. It absorbs sound waves well and practically does not burn. Basalt mineral wool has high compressive strength.

The only negative is the high water absorption coefficient. It is possible to insulate walls with its help only with the condition of subsequent plastering or other hermetic sealing of the surface.

Styrofoam

The most effective, cheapest and most popular garage insulation. It consists of small granules, securely and hermetically sealed together. Do-it-yourself insulation of a garage with polystyrene foam from the inside is the most energy-efficient method.

Polystyrene foam has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. It does not absorb water and does not allow steam to pass through. This lightweight material, which does not weaken bearing capacity walls, ceilings or gates.

The foam comes into chemical reaction with many chemicals. It cannot be used in aggressive environments. During combustion, foam releases dangerous phenolic compounds.

Expanded polystyrene

The installation method is practically no different from foam plastic. It has a lower water absorption coefficient and higher density. Insulating a garage from the inside with polystyrene foam is more expensive than a similar operation using polystyrene foam.

Penoizol

This is an analogue of polystyrene foam for walls, which is applied in liquid form. Penoizol does not differ from polystyrene foam in its thermal conductivity characteristics. It has a combustion class of G-1. It absorbs water well, but does not accumulate in itself, but evaporates into the atmosphere. Penoizol is a hygroscopic, vapor-permeable insulation.

Insulating a garage with your own hands

Most garages are built of brick or foam block. Therefore, the question often arises of how to insulate a brick garage rather than a metal one.

The work is divided into several stages:

  • walls;
  • gates;
  • ceiling.

Walls

Do-it-yourself insulation of a garage means, first of all, wall cladding. Most of the heat is lost through them. So how to insulate the walls in a brick garage?

Pasting walls with foam sheets

This is the answer to the question of how to insulate a garage cheaply.

  • The walls are cleared of old plaster and paints. All irregularities are covered with cement-sand mortar.
  • After drying, the walls are impregnated with soil or an antiseptic to destroy mold and mildew.
  • Then 100 mm thick foam sheets are glued on. To do this, use a notched trowel and special glue.
  • After 24 hours it is attached to the foam plaster mesh. To do this, add a little solution and press the stack into it.
  • Then the surface is plastered and puttied. Can be used as prepared facade plaster in bags, and cement-sand mortar M150. It's better not to waste energy on independent batch solution, but buy ready-made dry mixtures.

Installation of insulation on the frame

More expensive, but effective and reliable way insulate garage walls:

  • The surface of the walls is cleaned, all bulges are removed. Potholes and cracks are expanded and sealed with cement-sand mortar.
  • An antiseptic or deep penetration primer is applied to the walls with a roller. This way mold and mildew are destroyed.
  • After drying, the walls are sheathed with plastic film or membrane vapor barrier.
  • With help laser level two horizontal guides are installed. One goes along the floor, the other under the ceiling. For this, a wooden beam 100×50 mm or a metal profile is used. They are attached to the wall using anchors or self-tapping dowels.
  • Vertical guides are installed in increments of 600-800 mm. Absolute precision is not needed here. Therefore, for installation you can use a regular level or plumb line. Vertical guides are made of timber 100×50 mm or metal profile. They are attached to the wall in the same way as horizontal guides.
  • Sheets of insulation are inserted between the bars. If polystyrene foam is used, it is attached with glue. Then additional fastening of the sheets is provided using plastic dowels in the shape of a mushroom. The consumption rate per sheet is 5-6 pieces. The seams are sealed with polyurethane foam.

If dense basalt mineral wool is used, then glue is not required. Simply secure with plastic dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed using pieces of mineral wool.

For walls covered with mineral wool, a second layer of waterproofing is required on the interior side. Styrofoam additional protection no need for moisture.

  • For cladding, clapboard or profiled sheet is used. Which choosing the material is a matter of taste for each person.

More labor and material costs will be required to cover the walls with sheets of plasterboard or cement bonded particle board. They are attached to the frame using 30-40 mm wood or metal screws. Then the joints between the sheets are glued with mesh and puttied. At the final stage, the walls are plastered and painted.

Insulating a garage with polyurethane foam requires hiring third-party contractors construction organizations. It is impossible to do the work yourself.

Floor

Basically, thermal insulation of a garage floor is carried out using two materials: expanded clay or polystyrene foam. Cement-sand screed is used as a coating.

Thermal insulation of the floor with expanded clay

  • A hole 250-300 mm deep is dug along the perimeter of the garage. The bottom is leveled and beacons are installed in several places. To obtain the installation horizon, a laser or water level is used.
  • The bottom of the pit is covered with roofing felt or plastic film. A bend of 300 mm is made on all sides.
  • Expanded clay is poured. The thickness of the layer is equal to the depth of the pit. After backfilling, the surface is cut out along the beacons using a rule. The beacons are then removed.
  • A frame of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm is laid on top of the expanded clay. It can be purchased or collected directly from construction site. To do this, reinforcing bars are cut to size and laid out crosswise. Cell size 100-150 mm. The rods are connected to each other by knitting wire.
  • A beacon profile is laid on the mesh with a pitch of 600 mm.
  • A cement-sand screed is poured. The solution can be ordered or mixed on site. Filling starts from the far corner. Layer thickness 100-120 mm. After pouring, the floor surface is equal to the rule. After 48 hours the screed can be rubbed down. To do this, use a grater and a small amount of solution.

The period for complete drying of the screed is 28 days. Work on further insulation can begin 7 days after pouring. To avoid cracks, the screed is shed with water every 12 hours for 3 days.

Thermal insulation of the floor with foam plastic

An option when you don’t have to dig a pit. Insulation can be laid on the old covering:

  • The old coating is cleaned of dirt. If there are large potholes, they are sealed.
  • A plastic film or roofing felt is laid on the floor. This is a waterproofing layer.
  • Sheets of extruded foam with a density of at least C-25 are laid on the finished base. The thickness of the insulation layer should be 100 mm. The sheets can be laid in one layer 100 mm thick. It is much more reliable to use 50 mm foam plastic, laying the sheets in two layers.

All joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.

  • The foam is covered on top with a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene film or roofing felt. There is an overlap of 100 mm on the wall on each side.
  • A reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 100-120 mm is laid on the waterproofing. The mesh is laid on small veins, so the solution can flow under it.
  • The screed is poured over the mesh. The technology for constructing the load-bearing base is no different.

Gates

Metal garage doors are the main source of heat loss. If you completely insulate the perimeter, but do not touch the gate, then the work will be done in vain. Before starting insulation, you can build an additional curtain. For this you will need two wooden slats and dense reinforced polyethylene.

The first rail is attached above the gate. The film is cut into strips 200-300 mm wide and 20 mm long less than the distance from the slats to the floor. Then the strips are nailed overlapping each other. The second rail is placed on the first. This results in a reliable fastening.

The curtain is ready, you can proceed directly to insulating the gates:

  • Interior garage doors covered with plastic film.
  • The frame is assembled from a wooden beam 50x50 mm. It is screwed to the gate panel using metal screws. The wooden beams are pre-treated with an antiseptic.

The thickness of the timber for the frame should always correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

  • Sheets of foam plastic are inserted into the resulting frame. They are glued to the inner surface of the gate using glue. It must be chosen carefully, since the foam can enter into a chemical reaction with the glue and collapse. The sheets are pressed as tightly as possible to the surface of the gate.
  • Butt seams are sealed with polyurethane foam.
  • The foam is sewn on top with clapboard or profiled sheet using self-tapping screws and a drill.

Ceiling

According to the technology of work, ceiling insulation is no different from wall insulation. Sheets of insulation are attached to the cells of a frame made of wood or metal and covered with clapboard, plasterboard or any other finishing material.

Video: garage insulation

In this article detailed instructions How to properly insulate your garage. How to get the job done cheaply, but the best materials. The main thing is to follow the advice, take your time and thoughtfully approach each stage of finishing. Then the result will not be long in coming.

Insulation of a brick garage is a kind of guarantee of the long life and safety of the car. Due to sudden temperature changes, condensation may occur on the parts and body of the machine. And this, in turn, often causes a violation of the car’s anti-corrosion protection. What is needed to temperature regime was it optimal in the garage?

Some car enthusiasts do not think about how to insulate the garage from the inside and believe that they can achieve comfortable temperature conditions in the garage by simply installing one or more powerful heaters.

But, alas, this is not so. They will heat, but not only the garage, but also the street, since heat from a garage that is not properly insulated will constantly evaporate into the external environment.

Based on all this, the conclusion suggests itself: without major insulation of the garage, it is impossible to achieve comfortable conditions for the car. That’s why it’s necessary to find the right answer to the question: how to properly insulate a garage? Let's figure it out together.

To warm air didn't leave interior space, and the cold, on the contrary, did not penetrate inside, it is necessary to insulate the garage with your own hands, namely, its walls and ceiling. As for the floor surface, this is a separate issue. But we will also consider it within the framework of this publication. Next, we will consider this process step by step.

We insulate the gates

  • The inner surface of the gate should be treated with some kind of antiseptic (for example, heated drying oil);
  • We lath the gate with beams. The cross-section of the beams must be selected in such a way that this indicator coincides with the thickness of the insulation material, which is planned to be used (in our case, it is mineral wool). The distance between the sheathing bars must correspond to the width of the insulation layer. As for fastening the beams themselves, there are many options. However, we recommend fastening them with self-tapping screws onto corners pre-welded to the gate with holes drilled in them. If the garage is brick, then use metal corners not necessary. In this case, the sheathing is fastened with the same self-tapping screws, but using dowels;\
  • We put layers of mineral wool into the resulting paving cells. The insulation for the garage should fit tightly into the sheathing, without gaps, but should not be hunched over;
  • Any thin waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt) should be placed on top of the mineral wool. This must be done, since condensation in the garage is common, and our task is to prevent this condensation from getting on the insulation. And since the insulation was not secured with anything, slats should be placed horizontally on the waterproofing material. The slats are fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing beams.
  • On top, everything is sheathed with thin clapboard, OSB or plywood, which are attached with the same screws directly to the sheathing beams.


We insulate the ceiling

If you are thinking about how to cheaply insulate a garage from the inside, in addition to all other surfaces, you need to take care of the ceiling. Since all the warm air accumulates at the top, in order to avoid the loss of this precious heat, you need to properly insulate inner surface garage roof, that is, insulate the garage from the ceiling side. Insulating a garage ceiling can be done in two ways:

  1. We are constructing a false ceiling.
  • at some distance from the main ceiling along its perimeter, wooden bars or metal profile guides are mounted on the walls. Ceiling profiles or strong bars are mounted across them;
  • we carry out the covering of the resulting frame. For these purposes, you can use lining, drywall, boards, chipboard, plastic panels, corrugated sheets and other covering materials;
  • In parallel with the sheathing, insulation material is laid: mineral wool, polystyrene foam or other insulation materials.
  1. We insulate the ceiling with polyurethane foam

Here everything is solved literally in two stages:

  • We clean the ceiling from rust, dirt, dust and various irregularities ( the best option there would be cleaning of the ceiling surface grinder) and treat it with degreasing agents;
  • After the ceiling has dried from the degreaser, we blow out its entire surface with polyurethane foam. This insulation is good because it does not require the use of any fasteners. It lays evenly on any surface and adheres to it very reliably.

Note: although polyurethane foam is the most expensive insulation material, we decided to give an example of insulating a garage ceiling with it, because it thermal insulation characteristics several times higher than that of other insulation materials. And its service life (up to 50 years) will allow you to save many times in the future.

If there is a garage above attic space, you can create additional insulation ceiling with a mixture of clay and sawdust.


We insulate walls or how to insulate garage walls

When insulating a garage from the inside with your own hands, you cannot do without insulating the walls. We propose to consider the progress of this work using an example when polystyrene foam is used as insulation for garage walls. This material copes well with the task of thermal insulation. If necessary, polystyrene foam can be completely replaced with mineral wool. The progress of work with such a replacement does not change in any way. So, how to insulate a brick garage, or rather, its walls:

  • Before making thermal insulation, it is necessary to make a sheathing from bars with a section of 2x2 cm or 3x3 cm. The pitch between them should be 800-1000 millimeters. This design should cover the entire perimeter of the wall;
  • The garage walls are waterproofed under the sheathing. Materials such as polyethylene film, roofing felt or corrugated sheets are suitable as a waterproofing material;
  • Wall insulation (in our case, polystyrene foam), cut strictly to the dimensions of the sheathing cells, is inserted into these same cells and pressed against the wall with glue previously applied to its surface. Cutting polystyrene foam is done with an ordinary knife;
  • Next, you should protect the foam from exposure external environment. What's the best way to do this? The best option for this is to use some kind of sheet material. For example, gypsum plasterboard, plastic, gypsum fiber board, plywood, etc.;
  • Reinforced tape should be glued to the joints of the sheet material, after which, if desired, plaster or other facing material can be applied on top of all this.

You can also insulate walls with polyurethane foam.

This is done in the same way as it was done with the ceiling. However, the area of ​​the walls is quite large - it is several times larger than the area of ​​the ceiling. Therefore, given the high cost of polyurethane foam, we consider this action too economically unfeasible and do not recommend using this material for insulating garage walls.

Insulating the floor in the garage

Most often the garage floor is concrete screed without any surface covering. This is understandable: the load on the surface is constantly increased, plus aggressive gasoline, oil, diesel fuel and other specific liquids. We will not break this concrete tradition either. Let's just say that a concrete floor is also quite capable of insulation. Let's figure out how to insulate the floor in the garage:

  • A layer of soil 45 centimeters thick is removed over the entire area of ​​the garage space - in other words: a pit of appropriate depth is dug. The bottom of the resulting depression is carefully compacted;
  • The compacted bottom of the pit is covered with any waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt). This waterproofing allows you to inexpensively and efficiently protect the garage floor from moisture. When laying it, a 1-centimeter overlap is made on the walls;
  • Control beacons are set to determine the thickness of the backfill layers. Such beacons can be made from cut pieces of reinforcement, for example. Or you can use your own version of control beacons for these purposes. The beacons are fixed with cement mortar, or gypsum can be used for these purposes;
  • The expanded clay layer is poured first, the thickness of which should be 250-300 millimeters;
  • Placed on top of the expanded clay layer reinforcement mesh with a cell of 100x100 millimeters. Making such a mesh from iron wire with your own hands or purchasing a ready-made one is entirely your choice;
  • Next, a standard sand-cement mortar is poured. When pouring the screed, you must constantly monitor the level so that it is strictly horizontal, without tilting, distortions, depressions or bulges. The screed should be leveled and left until completely dry. The latter may take 20-30 days.

If you already have a concrete floor and you really don’t want to break it, and there is also the opportunity to sacrifice 15-20 centimeters of the height of the garage space, the floor in it can be insulated in a less labor-intensive manner, but no less effective method. It consists of the following:

  • The floor is thoroughly cleaned using a vacuum cleaner;
  • The floor is covered with any waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene film or roofing felt;
  • Expanded polystyrene boards with a thickness of at least 100 millimeters and a minimum permissible density of C-25 are laid as tightly as possible on the waterproofing material;
  • Another waterproofing layer is laid on top of the polystyrene foam;
  • Reinforcing mesh is installed;
  • On top of everything is poured a screed made of the same cement-sand mortar, as in the first method we considered.

So, having correctly arranged and combined everything, we will get a perfectly insulated garage. At the same time, we did not need to invest particularly large sums of money in insulation work. The conclusion suggests itself is the following: with the right materials and correctly performed work, insulating the walls of a garage from the inside turns out to be not such a difficult and expensive undertaking, and insulating a garage with your own hands is not so difficult. And in the vast majority of cases, after carrying out such a complex of work, insulating the garage from the outside is no longer required.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage from the inside will help extend the life of your car. The need for such work arises due to sudden temperature fluctuations, which lead to the appearance of condensation. Accumulated moisture settles on the car, leading to damage to the anti-corrosion coating. To prevent such situations, it is necessary to insulate the garage or carry out installation heating system.

Why insulate walls

The enclosing structures of buildings for cars are made of large-block materials, for example, cinder block or gas block, less often of brick. Depending on the method of laying the products, the thickness of such walls will range from 12 to 30 centimeters. This width is not enough to protect the room from the penetration of cold air. Even when installing a heating system, the difference between the air temperature outside and inside the building will lead to condensation.

There is no need to artificially increase the temperature in the garage to high levels. After a car enters a warm room from a cold street, condensation will certainly appear on its surface, which will lead to corrosion of the metal. Thermal insulation of the garage should be selected and installed in such a way that the difference in temperature in the room and outside the window is minimal. The optimal performance for a car is considered to be +5 degrees.

Note! When insulating building envelopes, motorists seal all cracks, including ventilation holes. It is prohibited to clog exhaust pipes; they are used to remove accumulated moisture and help remove carbon monoxide from the room.

Types of thermal insulation materials for garage walls

On modern construction market exists huge selection insulation materials. Let's consider the characteristics of the most popular thermal insulation materials:

  1. Mineral wool is supplied to stores in the form of rigid mats with a density of up to 240 kg/m3. Such products are characterized by high resistance to fire and allow water vapor to pass through their structure (breathe). The only downside to using basalt wool the device is considered necessary vapor barrier film which will protect the product from getting wet. When exposed to moisture, the insulation loses its properties.
  2. Glass wool is considered a cheaper analogue of mineral wool. Such products consist of hard and prickly fibers, so you need to wear glasses and gloves when working with insulation. After getting wet, the mats clump and become heavy, so glass wool needs to be protected from moisture penetration by laying special films or foil.
  3. Polystyrene foam is considered the most convenient thermal insulation material to use. The products are not afraid of dampness, can be easily cut into pieces with a regular hacksaw, and are affordable. Insulation of a garage can be done using an analogue of polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, which will last up to 40 years. The main disadvantages of the products in question are considered to be flammability and low resistance to sun rays. Foam plastic unprotected by plaster turns yellow and crumbles.
  4. Another insulation for the garage, warm plaster consists of vermiculite or foam balls. Such materials have good heat-insulating qualities, but to obtain maximum effect a thick layer of mortar must be applied to the walls.

Insulation of walls from the inside

The choice of insulation, as well as the technology for insulating enclosing structures, will depend on the material from which the enclosing structures are made. Many car enthusiasts are interested in the question of how to insulate a brick garage. First you need to clean the surface from dust and dirt, mount a frame into which the thermal insulation will be laid.

The sheathing is made from a plasterboard profile. The guides are fixed to the wall with dowels, which are driven in every 30 centimeters. The distance between the guides must correspond to the width of the insulation boards. For finishing For walls, you can use sheets of plasterboard or asbestos fiber. It is better to use the latest products, because they have a high degree of fire resistance compared to similar materials.

Advice! Asbestos fiber is quite fragile; to prevent its destruction as a result of various mechanical influences, reduce the pitch between the frame guides.

Insulation of garage walls from the inside is carried out using mineral wool or other products made in the form of slabs. In this case, the mats are inserted between the guides, their position is fixed using special hooks. After this, they begin to install the vapor barrier membrane, which should be connected to the cotton wool insulation.

We insulate the garage from the outside using warm plaster or special paint. Carrying out such work shifts the dew point, which will protect the walls from moisture penetration and further freezing. The owner of the building must carry out the installation forced ventilation. This system is designed for intensive air exchange.

For insulation metal walls Insulating a garage with polystyrene foam is suitable. Expanded polystyrene boards are fixed to the base surface using glue mixture. To securely fix the thermal insulation, it is necessary to first clean and degrease the metal. The sheets are fixed on the walls with the seams aligned, and poured into the gaps polyurethane foam. Polystyrene foam is subject to combustion, so it must be applied to its surface. thin layer plaster.

Metal garage walls are often insulated with polyurethane foam or special paint. If there are voids between the frame, insulation is carried out using penoizol. The liquid mass penetrates into the wall through special holes. The foam clings well to surrounding surfaces, hardens, turning into high-quality and reliable thermal insulation.

How to insulate garage doors

Not everyone knows how to properly insulate a garage from the inside. Effective and reliable thermal insulation of walls will not be enough, because a significant amount of heat escapes through the gate. The lack of insulation in this design will not allow the garage to warm up to the required temperature levels. On initial stage work, a hole is made in one of the doors and the doors are inserted. To reduce heat loss, a curtain made of thick fabric is fixed in this place.

A transparent polyethylene film with a minimum thickness of 0.8 millimeters will help to insulate the entire plane of the gate. This material is cut into strips 20-30 centimeters wide and fixed above the opening, so that the lower edge does not reach the floor surface by 1-2 centimeters. The strips are fixed to wooden beam using a stapler. This insulation is very effective - when entering the garage, the driver will see the surrounding space. In addition, narrow strips of polyethylene will smoothly flow around the car and return to their original position.

Some car enthusiasts insulate the inside of their garage doors with polystyrene foam. To do this, a sheathing of wooden blocks is installed on the inside of the structure and the voids are filled with polystyrene foam slabs. To prevent cold air from penetrating through the gaps, the joints of the thermal insulation are taped with tape.

To eliminate drafts entering through the gate, it is necessary to replace rubber seals. Condensation forms where the thermal insulation comes into contact with the metal surface. To prevent destruction, the steel is treated with paint or other anti-corrosion compound. Waterproofing substances are also applied to other surfaces.

The wooden guide elements of the frame are coated with a primer or heated drying oil, which will protect the material from rotting and exposure to fungus. After laying the foam, the surface is cleaned. Garage doors are finished with OSB boards or thin boards. It is not advisable to use moisture-resistant products for this, for example, gypsum board.

How to insulate a garage roof

If the building for a car is separate from a residential building or auxiliary buildings, in addition to the walls, the roof will also have to be insulated. This is due to the fact that warm air is much lighter than cold air; it will rise and melt the snow, which will lead to a sharp temperature change and the formation of condensation. We learned how to properly insulate a garage from the inside, but the process of insulating the walls is slightly different from insulating the roof.

If there is a plank ceiling, foam boards are used as insulation. Such products are fastened to the base using plastic dowels, umbrellas or ordinary nails. After this, the thermal insulation is covered sheet materials, for example plywood. Such products are fixed with long screws.

If the garage walls are covered concrete slab, it is necessary to mount a wooden or metal carcass from aluminum profile. The guides are attached to the base surface with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into plastic dowels. After installing the frame, foam boards are laid. The joints of the material are sealed with tape, then the heat-insulating cake is pressed with the sheathing.

Important! Foam plastic is considered the best material for roof insulation. If mineral wool is used, additional installation of polyethylene film and vapor barrier will be required.

Floor insulation

If the garage has a cellar for storing canned goods, vegetables and fruits, there is no need for floor insulation. In the absence of such an underground room, insulation is mandatory. The easiest way to insulate the floor is with foam boards. The whole workflow boils down to the following:

  • vacuum the base and remove dirt;
  • lay roofing material or plastic film on the base;
  • we fix sheets of polystyrene foam of maximum density (the thickness of the cake is at least 10 centimeters);
  • laying down waterproofing material and reinforcing mesh;
  • We install the beacons and fill in the leveling screed.

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