Of course, you can make a basement with your own hands. But it is worth considering the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on this process. Time costs will be associated not only with direct construction, but also with studying all the nuances of arranging basements.
Naturally, there is no doubt that the basement is an extremely useful room in all respects. You can equip a workshop in it, make a sauna, billiards, and a gym. In addition, very often from basements and ground floors make additional living room, which is no less comfortable to be in than in other rooms of the house. Having made a spacious basement, you can turn two-storey house almost three-story.
The main problem with arranging a basement arises at the stage of its construction. First of all, these are additional financial costs. The money will be used to purchase building materials, tools, etc. Those homeowners whose plot is located in an area with high level groundwater. In this case, it is better to seek help from professionals who will help you correctly calculate the amount of material used and the degree of waterproofing. To understand how to build a basement correctly, you need to have complete information about the type of soil in your area.
In general, the choice of the type of basement construction, like other technical solutions, will depend on two main factors:
- Groundwater level in the area.
- The owner wants to get a warm or cold room.
Since there are different ways to build a basement, you should collect as much available information as possible.
Excavation work before construction
Before you begin construction, you should accurately determine the size of the basement. They can be very different and depend on constructive solutions future home and the owner’s preferences.
When digging a pit, experts do not recommend deepening the basement into the ground to its full height. If, for example, the ceiling is located at a level of 50-100 cm above the ground, it will be possible to make small windows and vents. This will ensure a high level of comfort when staying in the basement and additional ventilation.
In addition, it would be right at the initial stage to think about how the room will be insulated from moisture and temperature changes. The higher the basement is raised, the lower the possibility of contact between the base and walls and groundwater will be. When you build a basement yourself, you have the opportunity, if necessary, to deviate from the project and make additional insulating barriers.
Based on the above, taking into account the height of the overlap, as well as the thickness concrete base and a sand cushion, the pit must be dug to a depth of approximately 200-220 cm. Of course, on your own earthworks It’s difficult to do, so it’s better to hire a team of workers or an excavator.
Preparing a pit for construction.
Considering that it will take several days to build the basement, it is likely that it might rain. Because of this, the soil in the dug hole will liquefy, and its edges will slide, losing their strength characteristics. To prevent this from happening, you need to do the following: when you clean out the pit, make small slopes from the edges of the pit to its bottom. Next, dig small grooves around the perimeter with a slope in one direction. At the lowest point of the pit, make a pit into which all the rainwater. Very often, builders dig a barrel there, from which they then pump water. When constructing basements, it is very important to drain all excess moisture.
Once the pit is ready and cleaned, it is necessary to prepare the foundation. The bottom of the pit is filled with crushed stone. It is recommended to use fine-grained stone. The thickness of the resulting layer should be about 10-15 cm. This is followed by laying the same layer of sand, which must be thoroughly compacted. If possible, it is recommended to use vibrating plates for this. If not, you can compact it manually with a little dampening of the sand.
Any roll insulator is laid in several layers on the resulting base. There should be no joints (when using roofing felt, the joints are sealed with bitumen mastic). After this, the formwork necessary to form the cement floor is installed. Do high formwork it’s not worth it - 20-30 cm is enough. If you plan to build a basement with heating for a one- or two-story house, then a heat insulator must be laid on the waterproofing layer. Extruded polystyrene foam boards are ideal. If you are not going to heat the basement, then laying insulation is not necessary (but in this case you will have to carefully insulate the ceiling).
Pouring the foundation and erecting walls
After the waterproofing and thermal insulation layers have been laid, it is necessary to install the reinforcement network in increments of 15-25 cm. The reinforcement is laid in two layers. If subsequently the walls are also planned to be made of concrete, then the ends of the reinforcement along the perimeter are bent upward. This is necessary so that in the future it will be more convenient to tie the reinforcement frame of the wall to them. If you are building a basement yourself, then at this stage you will still probably need to use the help of partners.
Once the reinforcement of the base is completed, you can begin pouring the solution. The thickness of the layer should be at least 20 cm. After pouring is completed, you need to wait some time (preferably 3-4 weeks) for the solution to dry. If the walls are also made of reinforced concrete, then the installation of formwork and tying of reinforcement can begin the next day after the foundation is ready.
As already noted, the walls basement It is also recommended to make it from reinforced concrete. If groundwater is below the base of the floor, then for the construction of walls when constructing basements, you can choose foam concrete blocks or red brick. After installing the walls, it is imperative to create a high-quality waterproofing layer on the outside.
Basement walls.
Insulation works
Waterproofing can be done by applying bitumen mastic or gluing a roll waterproofing material. A few days after waterproofing is installed, it is recommended to insulate the basement walls using extruded polystyrene foam boards. Simple polystyrene foam will absorb moisture, losing its characteristics. To avoid damage to the waterproofing layer, it is best to glue the insulation onto the same bitumen mastic. In areas of the wall where it protrudes above the ground level, it is important to correctly fix the insulation using special dowels.
Waterproofing and insulation of the basement from the outside.
It is necessary to install thermal insulation of walls in any case, regardless of whether the basement is heated or not, as well as cottage or two-story. Construction of a basement always involves the creation of a small but high-quality layer of thermal insulation. A layer of insulation will protect the walls of the room from freezing. In addition, the insulation will protect the waterproofing layer from possible mechanical damage.
As soon as the insulation of the walls is completed, it is necessary to backfill the soil. When filling the free space on the outside of the walls, the soil must be thoroughly compacted. To protect the basement from rainwater, you need to make a blind area, under which you should also lay insulation.
Also, when building basements, it is necessary to provide for a good ventilation system.
Air exchange in the room
The issue of ventilation during the construction of basements is often very acute. This is due, first of all, to the fact that many owners underestimate the importance of constant ventilation of underground rooms. But a humid environment will form there, which is dangerous not only for the products, but also for the building structures.
Ventilation pipes.
The ventilation system can be forced or natural. Of course, in 90% of cases people choose natural ventilation, consisting of two pipes - supply and exhaust.
The supply pipe should be located at one end of the basement, the exhaust pipe at the other. The lower part of the supply pipe should be located at the base of the room, at a distance of approximately 20-30 cm, and the upper part should go outside. This approach will allow fresh cold air to periodically enter the room, cooling it and displacing warm air masses. When a basement is built on its own, often only one pipe is installed for ventilation, which is often not enough.
At the opposite end there should be an exhaust pipe, the lower part of which is located under the basement ceiling (at a distance of 20 cm), and the upper part (ideally) should go to the roof. It is known that warm air rises upward, so warm air masses through this pipe will gradually leave the basement. This will ensure that there is no condensation.
What to do if the GWL is high?
When building basements, it is often the quality of waterproofing that plays a role. decisive role. This is especially important if the groundwater level is located above the base of the basement. Very often, when the GWL is really high, homeowners simply refuse to build a basement so as not to waste extra money, time and effort.
At high groundwater levels, moisture comes close to the room.
If the groundwater level is high, it is necessary to protect the basement in two directions:
- Waterproofing the walls and floors of the room.
- Decrease in groundwater level in the area.
In this case, the device helps very well drainage system, which will remove all excess moisture from the area. Of course, this will result in additional costs, but the effect of this system is impressive. Before making a basement, you should definitely provide for the possibility of drainage.
It is better to use double-sided insulation technology: outside and inside. It would also be useful to use membrane insulation, which is available in a variety on the market.
Construction of a basement is an important and responsible process that must be approached competently. If you doubt your abilities, then discuss all the nuances of arranging a basement with specialists. We must not forget that minor miscalculations in construction and the use of incorrect building materials can result in costly repairs in the future.
To store and store preparations and vegetables for the winter, many summer residents decide to build a cellar on their own backyard, which is quite justified for several reasons. Firstly, independent work will save a lot of money, especially considering that the work itself on organizing the cellar cannot be called very complicated. Secondly, such a design near the house makes it possible to consume scarce vegetables and vitamins in the winter.
In this article we will try to cover as fully and in detail as possible the topic of how to build a cellar on a site with your own hands. We will list the different types of structures for self-construction, offer instructions for each type of building, and also look at ready-made solutions available in the store. Go!
Cellar with concrete walls: instructions
The first step is to make preparation, namely, to decide building materials, location and dimensions of the cellar. We decided to choose a project made from bulk expanded clay concrete, since this option copes well with maintaining a constant temperature, and moisture will not penetrate into such a room. As for the depth, in our case the optimal indicator will be 3 meters.
Important point! When building your own and choosing a place for a cellar, it’s worth stopping on elevated areas. This way you can avoid the risk of the pit being flooded with groundwater in the spring.
Let's move on to digging a pit. For more comfort When descending into the cellar, a hole should be dug rectangular shape . The walls and floor of the underground structure should be thoroughly compacted! A gravel or crushed stone backfill is created on the floor, which is then filled with a clay solution.
If your site is located in a lowland, and there is a risk of the pit being flooded, then you should use a clay one instead concrete mortar. In this case, before pouring it will be necessary to lay a steel mesh.
The construction of walls can be carried out by the most different ways, it all depends on the material used. Alternatively, you can arrange concrete walls. For this purpose, formwork with longitudinal reinforcement is placed in the pit, after which it is filled with concrete. The formwork is dismantled after a few days.
Another good option is to build walls from expanded clay concrete or reinforced concrete blocks. The process of laying the material is identical. Even at the planning stage, it is worth considering places for organizing ventilation and doorways for greater comfort in the operation of the cellar.
After the walls comes the creation of the ceiling. To do this, again, formwork is created from chipboard, which is laid on top of the supports.
The formwork contains reinforcement mesh, which is then filled with concrete.
It will allow you to forget about the moisture inside the pit waterproofing! In our case, this is coating waterproofing using bitumen mastic, which will be applied both from the outside and inside walls On top of the ceiling, directly on the mastic, a layer of roofing material is laid, which will act as an additional waterproofing of the cellar.
The final stage of building a cellar with your own hands will be backfilling the pit and concrete floor earth.
Advice! When backfilling the floor and pit, make sure that there are no sharp objects or stones left in the ground that could damage the roofing felt layer, thereby compromising the waterproofing of the room.
In the end, all that remains is to improve the storage, namely, carry out electrical installations, install a ladder and a door, and also place inside special places for storing vegetables and racks for preparations and cans.
Video
Brick cellar: work order
If desired for country house The cellar can also be built from brick. To create such a building with your own hands, you can follow the following procedure.
After the final determination of the location for the cellar, taking into account the previously stated recommendations, you can immediately proceed to digging a pit of the required dimensions. In our example, the hole will be 2 by 2 meters.
After thoroughly compacting the floor and walls, we proceed to pouring the floor concrete slab followed by waterproofing.
For the construction of the walls, bricks were used with the thickness of the masonry in one row.
During masonry work, you should constantly check the evenness of the walls when using a level and plumb line!
After the walls we move on to the ceiling. For this purpose, wooden logs, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic composition, installed along the walls. A flooring is laid on them, on top of which a 25-30 centimeter layer of sawdust is placed.
A wooden hatch will act as a door inside. Don’t forget to insulate it with polystyrene foam so that the jars with blanks do not freeze in winter.
The final structure in a homemade cellar with brick walls will be a wooden gable roof, on one side of which there will be Entrance door with hole for ventilation.
It makes sense to dig a small ditch along the perimeter of the above-ground part of the cellar, where water from the roof will drain in the future during rain.
As for ventilation, in our case we used a pair of pipes with a diameter of half a meter. One was placed 20 centimeters from the ceiling diagonally, the second was placed at the same distance from the floor.
Red brick cellar
The creation of such a cellar, as in the case of other varieties, begins with digging a pit no more than 3.5 meters deep. As a result, we should get two rooms: a staircase and a vestibule.
After digging the pit, we carefully compact the steps of the stairs, the floor and walls of the room.
We are pouring concrete for the floor. After it hardens, you can proceed to laying brick walls.
It is important to emphasize that laying walls can only begin after the concrete has set and gained about 70 percent of its rigidity!
On top finished walls rolled metal is placed, which will serve as a kind of basis for the future ceiling.
Right on metal frame formwork is set up and pouring is carried out concrete mixture.
After the concrete has completely hardened, you can proceed to the construction of the above-ground part of the cellar using red brick. At the end the roof is installed.
Do-it-yourself storage in the country
Before proceeding with the construction of the cellar, it is necessary to prepare in advance all the necessary drawings, draw up at least a preliminary work plan and calculate the amount of building materials. During planning, it is important to consider that the finished storage must meet the following requirements:
- The room must have good ventilation;
- It is important to keep the inside cool;
- In the underground part there should be autonomous system electricity;
- It is necessary to take measures to protect preparations and vegetables from mice;
- The temperature regime in the basement should not be too harsh.
Reconstruction of a cellar at the dacha
The first step is to remove everything from the underground covering, after which you can move on to cleaning the deciduous and earthen layers, followed by disassembling the knurling. It would be more correct if the listed work began to be carried out from the edge to the center!
The next step is to disassemble old masonry walls with beams.
Foundation arrangement . For this purpose, a pit is dug in which formwork is created. In order to remain relatively warm inside the cellar, the thickness of the walls should be at least one brick thick. In our case, the height of the foundation reached 150 millimeters.
Before pouring the concrete mixture, reinforcement with a diameter of 16 millimeters is laid in the formwork in 3 rows. Each row of reinforcement is welded together using metal strips. Only after this can the structure be filled with cement. The formwork is dismantled after a few days.
You can avoid problems if you weld a figure-eight rod to the reinforcement in advance, even at the stage of installing the foundation!
Klaky brick walls . The first or, as it is also called, the zero row of bricks is laid directly on top of the concrete surface of the foundation with a poke. In the center above it there is a strip of steel metal, on which the embedded parts are fixed. Thanks to this solution, reliable and high-quality grounding is achieved.
All subsequent rows are laid in half a brick, while steel strips should be placed after each row. This will provide the basement walls with greater strength. There is no need to connect the strips together!
When building basement walls with your own hands, it is important to ensure that during construction there are no voids or gaps between the materials. Otherwise, rodents may enter the cellar through them in the future.
When the height of one meter is reached when laying the walls, you can proceed to arranging fresh ventilation; in our case, sewer pipes were used for this.
You can organize waterproofing of basement walls using sheets of roofing felt.
Creating a slab and top harness . Only after laying 21 rows of bricks can the upper part be tied using metal elements. To do this, a sheet of roofing material is laid on top of the last layer of brick, which is then covered with earth. In our example, two profiles from I-beam No. 12 were used for strapping, which was sawn in the middle. A section of rail was used as a beam.
The next step is to carefully secure the ladder!
Pouring 100mm reinforced concrete floor begins with the construction of formwork and installation of reinforcement. Afterwards the structure is filled with concrete.
At the end of the construction work in the cellar, the screed made of the finest crushed stone is filled with cement, the floor is insulated using a 5-centimeter layer of foam plastic, and a hatch is placed.
Electrical supply and finishing work are being carried out, during which it will be enough to simply whitewash the surfaces of the walls.
When conducting finishing works Don't forget to place the canopy over the ventilation pipes!
The difference between a basement and a cellar
In most cases, the basement is arranged as an underground room inside the house. As a rule, it is used as a place to place garden equipment, less often as a workshop, etc. The cellar is built mainly for storing vegetables and products. In addition, the cellar is often constructed in the form separate room standing outside the building.
How to convert a basement into a cellar with your own hands?
If there is a basement inside your country house, then if necessary, you can easily convert it into a cellar with your own hands - you just need to place racks inside for storing vegetables, and also install a wooden partition to divide the basement space. At the same time, the cellar will require a ladder, fans and lighting.
The stairs leading to the basement should remain comfortable and without steep steps!
If in winter the temperature in the basement dropped below zero, then additional wall insulation. Before this, it makes sense to apply slaked lime or an antifungal composition to the surfaces of the walls. As thermal insulation material Styrofoam, glass insulation or rolled roofing felt will do. The insulation itself is covered with sheets of fiberboard or plywood.
In addition to walls, a basement may need in floor insulation, which is realized through polyethylene film and timber laid on top. If necessary, you can fill the floor with bitumen, create a 5-6 cm flooring of sawdust, covered with wood on top.
How to build a cellar in a country house?
An ordinary cellar is made in the form of a simple pit with concrete walls, on top of which a roof is placed. It is recommended to build such a structure on a high place so that during periods of abundant water, groundwater does not reach the underground room.
Work order
- Preparation of drawings. In our case, the depth of the basement will be 1.0-1.2 meters, dimensions - 1.5-2.0 meters.
- Digging a pit in the case of a separately located cellar.
- The bottom of the pit is filled with a 5-7 cm layer of crushed stone or pebbles, steel mesh and formwork, after which cement is poured.
- After the concrete has hardened, you can proceed to laying brick walls.
- Along the perimeter of the basement, on top of the walls, 50 by 50 millimeter bars are laid. A hatch is installed, insulated with ordinary polystyrene foam.
Types of ready-made solutions
Barrel cellar
To create such a solution, high-quality fiberglass is used. The cellar in the form of a barrel is an absolutely sealed structure, and therefore it can be placed in any place and soil. The operational period of the finished product reaches 50 years. Design features provide a constant internal temperature, which allows you to store vegetables and food inside without any danger. To be placed on own plot You just need to dig a hole, place a cellar inside and fill the barrel back.
Ready-made models
Similar to the previous model, many conventional ready-made cellars are designed to last 50 years. As a rule, they are made from seamless plastic. Along with them, the set usually contains: forced ventilation, steel staircase, hood, built-in light source, etc. To install such a product with your own hands, you just need to dig a pit of the required dimensions, place the device inside and fill the structure back so that only a rectangular hatch is visible above the ground.
Cellar in the form of a capsule
If you don’t have time to build a cellar with your own hands, you can purchase a ready-made structure in the form of a capsule in the store. From the outside, such a product resembles a ball with a ladder. To install the product, similar to other models, it is enough to dig a hole, place a container inside and fill the voids with earth. Only the door inside will be visible above the ground.
A cellar is a place where you can store almost any food. The main advantage of this building, when compared with a regular pantry, is obvious - in it you can keep salted or fresh vegetables and fruits, and a variety of preserves. All year round in the cellar the temperature does not exceed 7° C, which is almost the temperature of a refrigerator.
There are several types of cellars. The simplest one is earthen. You can also build a cellar in the garage. There are also such cellars as above-ground, with a cellar, blocked cellar, etc.
To do this you will need: water, clay and chopped straw. Mix the solution until it becomes plastic and viscous.
Apply the solution in several layers, each time waiting for the previous layer to dry completely. After this, you can cover the walls with slab boards.
You can also lay out the walls from old bricks, or simply fill them with concrete.
For better storage vegetables and various products are supported by the earthen floor of the cellar. The base of the pit is well-compacted crushed stone, filled with bitumen on top. Next on top is an adobe floor. A good option is a cement screed. 
For a more convenient cellar, you will have to build steps. Initially, it is necessary to dig the future staircase and compact the earth well in place of the steps. Next you need to make formwork from plywood on side surfaces steps above the horizontal plane. Next we fill cement mortar step slabs. The steps must be lined with bricks, and the treads of the slabs must be made of stone.
Roof and cellar door design
Self-construction cellar means protecting its upper part. You can build a standard one over the cellar, larger in size than the cellar itself by 50 cm on each side.
Such measures will help prevent water from flowing into the cellar during rain. Be sure to insulate the door with several layers of foam rubber, and then cover it with dermantine on top.
This is quite an important process. All waterproofing materials can be divided into two types: non-pressure and counter-pressure. The second type of materials is used if groundwater reaches the floor level on the water pressure side. The first type of materials is used if the groundwater level does not reach the floor.
For better protection from water, use a drainage layer during construction., as a rule, are connected to a special well located next to the cellar. The drainage is alternated in layers with soil, and when laying the layers, it must be compacted.
To reduce groundwater, build – i.e. a special container with a certain slope for water drainage.
If the cellar is protected from groundwater, then waterproofing can be done with heated bitumen. Before covering the walls with bitumen, be sure to treat them with cement mortar. Waterproofing with bitumen is usually applied in two layers. While the bitumen is drying, the walls are usually sprinkled with sand.
Correct storage is the key to successful food storage. In the cellar, the hood can be of two types.
The first option is natural ventilation. It is performed using two pipes: exhaust and supply. This hood is based on the temperature difference between the room and the street, because of this, continuous air circulation occurs.
Usually the exhaust pipe is mounted near the ceiling, and its end is located half a meter above the cellar level. That. heated air goes out. And at the bottom of the cellar, a supply pipe is installed 10 cm above the floor line. It must be protected with a metal mesh from pests and insects.
The second type of ventilation is forced. It is created using special fans. The device is the same as in the first case. This ventilation is necessary in the summer, because... There is no air exchange due to the increase in outside temperature.
By observing all technological conditions, you will build a high-quality and reliable cellar that will delight you for many decades.
A cellar for storing vegetables, food supplies, and canning is a traditional, indispensable element of country life. A well-built cellar maintains almost the same temperature, no matter what time of year it is. Thus, you can be sure that vegetables, fruits, pickles, and jams will be reliably preserved. No one will say that making a cellar with your own hands is easy. Of course not. But information about “what and how” will not hurt.
It is worth considering that the cellar and basement are different rooms, but they have the same purpose - you can store food and gifts from the seasonal harvest. Proper ventilation The basement is the main factor that you need to pay attention to during construction.
Equipped storage under the house (in other words, a cellar in a cellar) is convenient, since everything is nearby: in winter you don’t need to get dressed to go outside, as if it were located separately. Also, you will not need to insulate walls and ceilings, because such a room always maintains a positive temperature.
The cellar is a purposeful building; it can have any area and can be equipped with all kinds of shelves, stands, and racks. Well-organized ventilation system, waterproofing, thermal insulation will create an optimal temperature level for storing food. Unlike a basement, a cellar can be built in any place you want local area.
A separately located cellar can become part of the design concept and harmoniously complement the style direction of the garden plot.
Cellar design or why the basement is the coldest place in the house
This factor is explained by the laws of physics - despite the connection between the basement space and the outside air, in the summer the basement will be the coldest place in the house. In winter, the basement will be warmer, even if the rooms above are not heated.
This phenomenon is due to the fact that warm air currents are much lighter than cold ones, and therefore rush upward. And the cold air tends downwards and concentrates in the basement.
IN summer time the house receives heat from the sun-heated roof and heated walls, but, of course, the sun’s rays do not reach the basement. But even if you don’t live in a country house in winter, and the house is not heated in any way, the basement will maintain a temperature slightly above zero. The lower the basement is, the warmer it will be in winter.
How to build a cellar
It is better to start planning the stages of building a cellar with your own hands when the weather gets warmer, but it is better to determine the groundwater level in spring or autumn.
There are three main types of cellars: above ground, in-ground, and semi-in-ground. Soil with a high level of water passage can become the main obstacle to the construction of a classic cellar. It is in such cases that it is recommended to choose a semi-buried or above-ground type of storage.
Stages of construction work:
Cellar ventilation
Ventilation of the cellar and basement is an important factor in maintaining acceptable temperature conditions for storing food supplies. Excessive dampness is an eternal companion of all underground premises. If you do not intend to engage exclusively in growing mushrooms, then you should take care to control air humidity.
If the cellar is located in the basement of the house, then the vents in the base of the house foundation (which are laid during construction) will specifically perform a ventilation function. For a small basement, about 5 square meters, such an air exchange system is quite suitable. To prevent rodents from entering, it is better to cover the vents with metal mesh and seal them tightly during frosts.
If you need a large basement, then based on natural air exchange supply and exhaust ventilation will become the best solution. For a separately constructed cellar, as well as a basement, it is necessary to provide two air ducts in advance. The thickness of the pipes (preferably PVC) depends on the size of the room. The most commonly used diameter is 20-60 cm.
The principle of operation of such a system works on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the cellar. The hood (exhaust pipe) is located under the ceiling of the cellar, passing through the ceiling, leaving one end on the roof. The supply pipe also leads to the roof, but its other end, which is located indoors, must be no higher than 100 cm from the basement floor. Grids and dampers at the outer ends of the pipes will protect the air ducts from precipitation and help regulate the level of heat in the room, if necessary.
Ventilation diagram in the cellar:
Waterproofing the basement from the inside
The cellar and basement should be dry - this is an axiom. In addition to standard waterproofing mastics (Aqua, Technonikol, BITUMAST), plasters (Monolit, Polimin, Scanmix), it is advisable to use penetrating waterproofing (for example, Penetron or Millennium).
The most effective methods:
- Penetrating waterproofing is effective, easy to use: applied with a brush to slightly damp walls, floors, and is environmentally friendly. Before use, it must be diluted with water until a homogeneous consistency is obtained.
- Liquid rubber is best applied to pre-primed walls and floors. It is desirable that the surface is smooth - this will facilitate the ideal application of the bitumen-polymer layer and ensure optimal adhesion. After applying and drying the first layer of liquid rubber to strategic places (seams, joints, utility lines), you can reapply the second layer.
- Basement waterproofing with liquid glass works in the same way as penetrating insulation types. This is extremely effective method with a durable effect, has good breathability and water-repellent qualities.
Insulation of the cellar
It is advisable to take care of the insulation of the cellar as early as construction stages. After applying waterproofing layers, foam plastic (density 25) or polystyrene foam boards are most often used - they are used to line the walls of the cellar both outside and inside. These materials are good because they are not affected by fungus and mold, are easy to install, and have a low cost.
Stages of floor insulation:
- The rough surface of the floor is leveled and covered with waterproofing material.
- The insulation is being installed (approximately 4-8 cm).
- Polyphenol (multi-layer reflective insulation) is installed.
- A reinforced screed is placed on top of all layers.
As for the walls, the layering effect also works here:
- Waterproofing layer.
- Installation of foam plastic boards (or other suitable material), for fixing which you can use the appropriate adhesive composition.
- Cement screed (small thickness), reinforced with reinforcement for greater reliability. The M-100 cement grade is optimally suited for these purposes.
- Since the cellar is a room with high humidity, to enhance the effect, you can additionally treat the walls waterproofing composition on top of the screed.
- The finished surface can be covered with any finishing coating, which you like (tiles, wild stone, etc.).
It is better to carefully fill all existing joints with polyurethane foam.
Stairs in the basement
The staircase is an important structural element of the cellar or basement. Your safety depends on them, so ladders must be properly manufactured and installed. The most common materials used for construction are hardwood, metal or concrete.
The staircase can be straight, rotary, spiral or attached - it all depends on individual design cellar or basement, as well as your preferences. The staircase must be strong, reliable, and preferably have railings. The thickness of the steps directly depends on the width of the tread.
It doesn’t matter what material the stairs are made of, but building codes must be strictly observed. The correct width, clearance, slope - these are the main parameters of construction.
A plastic cellar is an innovative alternative to standard cellars or basements. In fact, this storage is a ready-made plastic cube (box), with strong walls, shelves, a ladder, and a hermetically sealed lid. Such storage can be installed quite quickly and is subsequently not afraid of humidity - and this is an important factor for storing food supplies. To make such a container, plastic is used, which contains fiberglass or polypropylene. The ready-made factory version comes with a ventilation system.
A plastic cellar can be installed in any desired location in the local area or under a garage, house, or any building. The only one important nuance – correct installation boxes
Advantages:
- no temperature changes;
- humidity control;
- protection from rodents;
- does not absorb odors;
- easy cleaning and disinfection;
- not subject to corrosion;
- operational life is more than 50 years.
The installation process in general, step by step:
- A pit of the appropriate size is dug.
- The bottom of the pit is concreted (or a ready-made concrete slab is installed).
- The box is installed on a concrete bottom and secured with slings (or according to the manufacturer’s recommendations).
- The pit with the box is filled with a mixture of sand and concrete, only the entrance cover remains visible from the outside.
It is also worth mentioning the addition that the owners of such cellars sometimes make - we are talking about insulating the walls with foam plastic. Here opinions are divided, since the design itself is self-sufficient and, in theory, does not need improvement. This issue is decided only by the owner, but additional thermal insulation will definitely not harm the box.
Whatever type of storage room you choose, you need to take into account the characteristics of the soil on the site and pay close attention to all construction parameters. A plastic cellar, a separate building, or a basement in a private house, equipped with your own hands to store the gifts of summer, requires accurate preliminary calculations. If you stick to everyone building regulations, a self-built cellar will be long years to delight you and your loved ones with high-quality preserved products.
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| Ski type | Storage Features |
 Cross-country |
|
 Mountain |
|
 Hunting |
Features of the racks
Their features are:Organization of storage space
- On two hooks;
- On wall brackets;
- On the roof rails;
- Strips with clamps;
- Railing structures.
- Hooks are attached to the boards;
Features of ski storage for walks, mountains and hunting
Skis vary in size and shape, depending on their type. This determines the choice of place and device for storing them. The main types of models and the features of their storage can be found in the table:| Ski type | Storage Features |
|
Cross-country |
These are the smallest and relatively inexpensive products. Wood or plastic are used to make them. They can be stored in a cool and cool place all year round. dark place. But at the same time, you cannot leave moisture on your skis, which is formed from melting snow, and expose them to mechanical stress. |
|
Mountain |
Skis large sizes. Before long-term storage on special racks, products require very careful processing. Sliding surfaces are coated with paraffin, and metal parts are coated with a special ointment to prevent rust. Due to the wood core, this equipment should be stored in a cool area with low humidity. |
|
Hunting |
These skis require quite a lot of space for storage; they are wide and long length. Most often, hunting equipment is made of wood, but there are also plastic products. Used for fastenings durable fabric, leather or rubber. Hunting skis made of wood require compliance with the microclimate: low humidity; low temperature. The best position is hanging vertically, with your toes up. |
General rules for storing wooden skis
Wooden models require especially careful handling. The material may dry out, lose its shape, and change appearance. To avoid this, you must follow some rules:- You cannot hold skis under the influence of direct sun rays and near heating devices even for a short time - very dry air contributes to the drying out of the material;
- It is not allowed to have high humidity and contact with water - the wood will absorb moisture well, and then deform after drying;
- Equipment should be stored in a vertical position, using special racks for skis;
- Equipment must be placed with its toes up;
- The pair should not be tightly tied together with sliding surfaces, which may cause deformation. It is best to use special spacers.
Tip: The ideal environment for wooden skis is a dark, cool, and well-ventilated area.
Storage of equipment on a wooden device General rules for storing plastic models
Making equipment from this material provides them with greater strength and durability. This allows you to create less stringent requirements for ski storage conditions:- They can be stored both vertically and horizontally;
- It is not necessary to install a spacer - they retain their shape perfectly for a long time;
- Sliding surfaces must not touch. To do this, it is better to use a fabric layer or store equipment with its socks facing each other;
- In the off-season and during the season, skis can be stored in special cases.
Tip: When keeping plastic skis on the street or at room temperature, you should create a protected place for them, and make sure that the equipment does not receive mechanical damage.
Features of the racks
Ski racks can have very different designs and perform useful functions. Their features are:- The equipment can be used for horizontal and vertical positioning of models. In this case, you should decide on the location support posts. In the presence of small space, the ski storage structure cannot be installed in a horizontal position;
- When storing equipment in a horizontal position, the racks must have three supports to prevent the shape of the skis from changing;
- At vertical storage inventory, racks consist of a rack on which two crossbars are attached, and on them there are hooks for runners and sticks for them;
- The main task of any rack is to maintain the quality and original appearance of sports equipment for a long time;
- The capacity of the structures depends on the number of pairs that should be stored on it and the customer’s preferences;
- Crossbars are often made with adjustable width to accommodate equipment. This will allow the design to be used for skis for various purposes: cross-country, mountain;
- At the bottom of the racks, special trays are installed in which melted water is collected;
Advice: If possible, you should order racks with additional shelves, for storing other sports equipment.
Organization of storage space
It is problematic to store skis in a small apartment. Especially if there are several pairs of them, and they are large in size - mountain or hunting. To get out of this situation, special mounts, racks or racks are used. The storage space can be a pantry or a large dressing room. If they are not available, you can use an insulated glazed balcony or loggia. After determining the location, the method of mounting the equipment is selected: vertical or horizontal. To place skis in a horizontal position, the mounts can be:- On two hooks;
- On wall brackets;
- On the roof rails;
- On ceiling hanging brackets.
- Wall blocks that look like hooks, as in the photo;
- Strips with clamps;
- Railing structures.
Tip: When making such a mount with your own hands, you must use rubberized surfaces to prevent damage to the sliding surfaces, and provide for attaching the sticks to the wall.
Wall mounted ski hooks Wooden ceiling shelf-rack on metal brackets A special rack or rack and cabinet take up a lot of space in the house. Compared with wall mounts, it is preferable to install them in a storage room, on a large loggia, dressing room or in a warm garage. Racks and racks are designed for vertical placement of skis and poles. They can be double-sided or single-sided wall-mounted - the latter are more compact. The racks can additionally be equipped with shelves on top for boots and other equipment. Making ski mounts
Designing a rack or rack for skis is quite difficult, but many people can make mounts for storing skis in a vertical position. The work instructions look like this:- The number of pairs that will be attached to the device is calculated;
- Prepare two boards with same sizes;
- Extended pins or hooks are purchased;
- Hooks are attached to the boards;
- The boards are fixed to the wall, at a selected height, parallel to each other;
- The pins are wrapped with tape or insulating tape to protect sports equipment from scratches;
- The skis, fastened at the top and bottom, are hung end-to-end against the wall on improvised mounts.
- If there is some in the house free space, you can use it to install a cabinet where skis will be stored.
- You can keep sports equipment in a separate vertical section of the hallway or closet by placing fasteners in them. In this case, the cost of the structure will be minimal.
