Have you noticed orange-yellow spots on the leaves of your apple tree? A healthy tree's leaves do not change color or shape. Lesions are a symptom of a plant disease or attack by pests. Rust stains may indicate a fungal infection fruit tree, especially since apple and pear trees are the most vulnerable types of garden plants. How dangerous is the disease, what consequences can it lead to? Why does it affect apple trees and is there a risk of affecting others? garden crops? Let's figure it out.
Rust on the leaves indicates the appearance of a disease
Rust on apple leaves
Apple tree rust is an infectious disease caused by the fungus Gumnosporandium tremelloides. Typically, the first symptoms of the disease appear in mid-summer: small protrusions appear on the leaves and quickly grow over the entire surface. Soon stripes or round spots of brown color appear on the outer part of the leaves.
Black spots are visible on the spots - they appear in places under which there is an accumulation of spores.
Periodically, this nursery opens up and releases a new batch of pests onto the plant. Multiple yellow- brown spots occupy 2/3 of the leaf surface, the tree quickly sheds the affected leaves and already in August - September its branches become bare.
What is the danger of rust?
Rust most often affects the leaves, but the fungus can spread to the branches, bark and fruits of the plant. Young shoots are at risk - some of them die, and those that develop will not produce healthy growth and fruit in the future. The development of shoots can last up to 3 years, but then the bark in the affected areas and on the trunk begins to crack. Apples do not ripen - at some stage (for each plant individually) they slow down their growth and fall off.
Rust weakens the tree, resulting in a poor-quality harvest.
A sick apple tree does not receive the nutrition necessary for normal growth, as a result of which photosynthesis and metabolic processes slow down and the plant does not have enough moisture. As a result, gardeners receive a poor-quality harvest - the fruits are small, they lack the usual juiciness, and the core is often rotten.
Causes of the disease
The most vulnerable is an apple tree that grows in the same area as a juniper, because this plant is the causative agent of rust. During the cold season, fungal spores accumulate and overwinter in juniper needles - they can remain in a preserved state for several years. With the onset of warmth, the active development phase of the spores begins - they settle on the leaves of apple trees and infect the plants.
Rust is a common disease in southern and coastal regions. In humid climates, spores develop faster, and strong winds carry them over a distance of 40-50 km, affecting fruit trees within this perimeter.
How to fight rust?
Yellow-brown spots must be treated so as not to harm the tree:
To remove rust, you need to remove juniper from the garden.
- If the cause of the damage is juniper, it is advisable to remove it from the garden and dig deep into the soil in the place where it grew.
- Branches and leaves with stains will have to be removed. They need to be cut 10 centimeters below the affected area.
- After removing the diseased areas, the plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or other meld-containing solutions. The apple tree is sprayed three times, every two weeks.
- A common mistake gardeners make is that they begin to treat the tree at the end of summer, when the apple tree has already dropped its leaves. Such measures will not have any effect.
Rust treatment in early spring has the greatest efficiency
The best time for treatment is early spring, before the buds bloom. First you need to clean the wounds on the shoots (cut as described above) and disinfect the cuts with a solution copper sulfate. After this, you can spray the tree:
- spraying - in the “green cone” phase;
- spraying - in the “bud” phase;
- spraying - after flowering of the tree.
How not to cause harm?
It is impossible to treat spots and other lesions on leaves with Bordeaux mixture in the heat. At high air temperatures, the toxic chemical begins to actively evaporate, its concentration on the leaves of the fruit tree increases several times. The apple tree can get burned, and the gardener can get poisoned by toxic fumes. Breeders recommend spraying plants in the morning or evening, when it is cool outside.
Treating plants in wet weather will not give a positive result, because the solution will drain from the foliage along with dew drops.
Spraying is carried out when the apple tree is dry. At least 6 hours must pass after the rain. There will be no positive effect from treating a fruit tree at temperatures below +5 degrees, and the apple tree may get burned.
The same thing will happen if you spray the plant in the heat or immediately after rain. In such climatic conditions, copper sulfate, which is part of the Bordeaux mixture and similar preparations, is released in excess. It causes burns of leaves, shoots, and trunk.
Don't want any extra problems? Then don't drop off coniferous trees in the same area with fruit trees. And if you take a risk, choose varieties of apple trees with strong immunity to scab and fungal infections, surround the plants with other varieties fruit trees and take proper care of your garden.
Many gardeners like to plant apple trees on their plots due to their relative unpretentiousness to growing conditions. In addition, the fruits, leaves and flowers of this tree have a large number of uses in everyday life. However, as happens with other plants, sometimes apple trees begin to get sick, and the diseases have different prerequisites and are also expressed differently. In our article we will talk about why brown spots may appear on an apple tree, what means and how to deal with this problem.
Brown spots on leaves - manifestation process
Those who first encounter the appearance of brown or other colored spots on the foliage and fruit of an apple tree are confused and try to understand why this happened.
It is worth remembering that the causes of stains are always associated either with an attack by pests or with the consequences of an advanced disease. If brown spots appear, you can definitely say that the tree has been affected by apple tree rust. The symptoms of this disease are quite easy to calculate. First of all, in the summer, round spots begin to appear on the upper part of the foliage, very similar in color to rust. These rust spots gradually begin to increase in size until mid-summer arrives, when, in addition to spots, growths begin to appear on the leaves, growing more and more over time. This is exactly what rust looks like on apple tree leaves. And it is worth getting rid of it as quickly as possible so that the disease does not have time to cause a decrease in the tree’s immunity.
Rust on apple tree leaves is the cause of the disease
Main and main reason The appearance of rust on an apple tree is caused by a fungus.
Most often, this happens when a tree grows near a juniper. Rust can appear along with juniper spores, this allows it to form tissue growths and star-shaped growths on the foliage of this plant. New spores with rust are formed on these outgrowths, and they are transferred in the spring by the wind to the leaves of the fruit tree. After this, leaves, shoots and even fruits begin to be affected.
This disease mainly affects plants grown in the South, South-West and South-East of Ukraine, as well as in the Crimea. 
Rust on apple tree leaves - how to treat it
The first and most obvious way to prevent rust spots is to plant the apple tree as far away from the juniper as possible. It is recommended to fence the trees with other green spaces.
You should try not to plant fruit trees next to conifers at all.
If your tree has already been affected by the disease, use the following control measures:
- The first step is to remove the infected tree members as quickly as possible, be they foliage, shoots, branches or fruit. You need to trim even those parts that have a small speck or growth of brown or yellow color. The branches are cut 5-10 cm below the infected area.
- Next you need to treat the trees with chemicals. Suitable for this
- Bordeaux mixture - one percent mixture;
- "Topaz";
- cuproxate;
- cineba – solution 0.4%;
- "Vectra".
It is worth treating the tree with these substances once every five to seven days.
- In the first month of spring, when the buds have not yet appeared, it is worth clearing the areas that were previously affected until the new wood takes hold. After stripping, treatment with 5% copper sulfate and coating with garden putty is necessary.
- During the period when the leaves bloom, you need to spray the trees with fungicides, that is, solutions against microbes. This procedure must be carried out three times every 14 days.
Now you know how to treat a tree if brown spots appear on the leaves of the apple tree. You also know how to prevent apple tree rust. Try to follow these tips to achieve the most prolific harvest possible. If the symptoms on your trees differ from those of rust, then you should carefully read the next point.
Spots on apple tree leaves - other causes
Rust on an apple tree is not the only reason why brown or similar stains may appear on an apple tree. Sometimes it happens that the apple tree simply lacks some useful substances. Depending on what specific substances are missing, spotting has different colour. For example, brown around the edges indicates a lack of copper. Based on similar symptoms, it is easy to determine whether darkening and other problems began to appear on the apple trees in your garden as a result of a deficiency or excess.
- Nitrogen.
The lack of this substance in the soil leads to the fact that the leaves of the apple tree turn sharply yellow and stop growing. At the same time, the shoots of the tree begin to acquire a brown color, also do not grow to normal size and fall off very early.
- Phosphorus.
Phosphorus deficiency also leads to changes in the color of tree foliage. In this case, they begin to take on a bluish tint with purple or purple spots. As in the previous case, foliage growth stops. The edges begin to curl down a little. The leaves quickly age, dry out and fall off. If the tree is not treated in time, flowering and ripening will be greatly delayed and may not occur at all.
- Potassium.
A symptom of potassium deficiency is the color of the leaves turning brown, after which slow drying begins. Individual branches on the trunk also dry out. Leaves may not grow to the desired size. 
- Magnesium.
With a deficiency of this substance, as with nitrogen deficiency, the leaves turn yellow, but purple spots begin to appear. This also affects the fruits, which become smaller and lose their taste. The leaves fall off in large numbers until, eventually, it is the turn of the young foliage.
Boron starvation has the greatest effect on the apple tree. The growing point of the stem dies, the peel of the fruit becomes thicker and tougher, the taste changes to bitter, and brown dots appear. The fruits themselves stop falling and dry out.
- Manganese.
Old leaves are covered with a dark yellow coating due to a lack of manganese, while the veins should remain green. If you do not notice the plaque that has appeared for a long time and do not treat the tree, the shoots will begin to die.
- Copper.
As we said above, copper deficiency causes brown spots on the edges of apple tree leaves. In addition, cracks and swellings begin to form on the bark of the tree trunk, and the tops of the shoots will gradually begin to dry out.
- Iron
With a lack of iron, healthy leaves of the apple tree begin to take on yellow-orange shades, the shoots die, and the tops suffer from dryness.
What kind of symptoms appear on the leaves, fruits and trunk of your trees determines what treatment they need. The disease quickly goes away if the lack of certain nutrients is recognized in time and the plants have access to them in time.
But you should be careful, because an excess of microelements also leads to unpleasant and harmful consequences, so you must carefully identify the most obvious signs.
If you quickly respond to such symptoms and maintain soil fertility, then you will not have problems with how fruitful the harvest will be.
Have you noticed orange-yellow spots on the leaves of your apple tree? A healthy tree's leaves do not change color or shape. Lesions are a symptom of a plant disease or attack by pests. Rusty spots may indicate fungal infection of a fruit tree, especially since apple and pear trees are the most vulnerable types of garden plants. How dangerous is the disease, what consequences can it lead to? Why does it affect apple trees and is there a risk of affecting other garden crops? Let's figure it out.
Rust on apple leaves
Apple tree rust is an infectious disease caused by the fungus Gumnosporandium tremelloides. Typically, the first symptoms of the disease appear in mid-summer: small protrusions appear on the leaves and quickly grow over the entire surface. Soon stripes or round spots of brown color appear on the outer part of the leaves.
Black spots are visible on the spots - they appear in places under which there is an accumulation of spores.
Periodically, this nursery opens up and releases a new batch of pests onto the plant. Multiple yellow-brown spots occupy 2/3 of the leaf surface; the tree quickly sheds the affected leaves and already in August - September its branches become bare.
What is the danger of rust?
Rust most often affects the leaves, but the fungus can spread to the branches, bark and fruits of the plant. Young shoots are at risk - some of them die, and those that develop will not produce healthy growth and fruit in the future. The development of shoots can last up to 3 years, but then the bark in the affected areas and on the trunk begins to crack. Apples do not ripen - at some stage (for each plant individually) they slow down their growth and fall off.
A sick apple tree does not receive the nutrition necessary for normal growth, as a result of which photosynthesis and metabolic processes slow down and the plant does not have enough moisture. As a result, gardeners receive a poor-quality harvest - the fruits are small, they lack the usual juiciness, and the core is often rotten.
Causes of the disease
The most vulnerable is an apple tree that grows in the same area as a juniper, because this plant is the causative agent of rust. During the cold season, fungal spores accumulate and overwinter in juniper needles - they can remain in a preserved state for several years. With the onset of warmth, the active development phase of the spores begins - they settle on the leaves of apple trees and infect the plants.
Rust is a common disease in southern and coastal regions. In humid climates, spores develop faster, and strong winds carry them over a distance of 40-50 km, affecting fruit trees within this perimeter.
How to fight rust?
Yellow-brown spots must be treated so as not to harm the tree:
- If the cause of the damage is juniper, it is advisable to remove it from the garden and dig deep into the soil in the place where it grew.
- Branches and leaves with stains will have to be removed. They need to be cut 10 centimeters below the affected area.
- After removing the diseased areas, the plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or other meld-containing solutions. The apple tree is sprayed three times, every two weeks.
- A common mistake gardeners make is that they begin to treat the tree at the end of summer, when the apple tree has already dropped its leaves. Such measures will not have any effect.
The best time for treatment is early spring, before the buds bloom. First you need to clean the wounds on the shoots (cut as described above) and disinfect the sections with a solution of copper sulfate. After this, you can spray the tree:
- spraying - in the “green cone” phase;
- spraying - in the “bud” phase;
- spraying - after flowering of the tree.
How not to cause harm?
It is impossible to treat spots and other lesions on leaves with Bordeaux mixture in the heat. At high air temperatures, the toxic chemical begins to actively evaporate, its concentration on the leaves of the fruit tree increases several times. The apple tree can get burned, and the gardener can get poisoned by toxic fumes. Breeders recommend spraying plants in the morning or evening, when it is cool outside.
Treating plants in wet weather will not give a positive result, because the solution will drain from the foliage along with dew drops.
Spraying is carried out when the apple tree is dry. At least 6 hours must pass after the rain. There will be no positive effect from treating a fruit tree at temperatures below +5 degrees, and the apple tree may get burned.
The same thing will happen if you spray the plant in the heat or immediately after rain. In such climatic conditions, copper sulfate, which is part of the Bordeaux mixture and similar preparations, is released in excess. It causes burns of leaves, shoots, and trunk.
Don't want any extra problems? Then do not plant coniferous trees in the same area as fruit trees. And if you take a risk, choose varieties of apple trees with strong immunity to scab and fungal infections, surround the plants with other varieties of fruit trees and properly care for the garden.
Cytosporosis, milky sheen - the list of fungal, viral and bacterial diseases of the apple tree can be continued for a long time. In this series, rust ranks no. last place by prevalence. In other years, when the disease is epiphytotic in the orchards, crop losses reach 90%. Therefore, the issues of treatment and prevention of rust on apple trees are relevant for every gardener. In this article we will tell you how and why rust appears on an apple tree, and we will consider ways to combat it.
Description of the rust pathogen and symptoms of apple tree damage
| Stages | Recommendations |
| Stage 1 | At the end of summer or early autumn, aecidiospores of the fungus fall on the branches of the juniper and germinate, forming a mycelium. The process of its formation has been going on for one and a half years. |
| Stage 2 | The “adult” mycelium produces teliospores every year in early spring. Wet spring weather promotes their germination and the formation of basidia with basidiospores. |
| Stage 3 | With the onset of persistent heat, the basidiospores dry out, break off and are transported by the wind to the apple tree. Growing on the leaves, the fungus enters the aecidial phase of development. |
| Stage 4 | Aecidia are formed on the lower surface of the leaf blade, in which aecidiospores mature. At the end of summer, the aecidia open and the spores disperse, again infecting the juniper. |
The first sign that fungal spores have entered the leaves of an apple tree is the appearance of small round orange spots on the upper side of the leaves. Under a magnifying glass, inside these spots you can see black dots - spermogonia. On the contrary, with reverse side leaf, yellow dots appear first. Gradually they increase in size. This is the process of maturation of aecidia. By the end of summer they turn into groups of outgrowths.
A leaf infected with rust is not able to fully carry out photosynthesis. At large area If damaged, the apple tree may shed its leaves and unripe fruits already in mid-summer.
Reasons for the development and regions of distribution of apple tree rust
The following factors contribute to the appearance of rust on an apple tree:
- proximity to juniper thickets;
- warm and humid beginning of spring;
- warm winds at the end of spring.
Until recently, apple tree rust was a disease of limited distribution in Russia, since the combination of these three factors was observed mainly in the southern and coastal regions of the country. But the more active the element landscape design the juniper becomes, the more often apple trees in the middle zone become infected with rust.
Tip #1. In order not to give up coniferous rock gardens for fear of infecting the apple orchard, after purchasing juniper seedlings you need to treat them with fungicides.
If rust is detected on juniper, you need to take emergency measures to protect apple trees. 3 mistakes when dealing with rust on an apple tree
Mistake #1. Tree processing begins in the fall.
This is what those who are afraid to use fungicides before harvest do. But such tactics are wrong. By autumn, the aecidia on the leaves are already empty - the dispersal of spores occurs at the end of summer. Treating apple trees against rust at this time does not make sense.
Mistake #2. They treat the apple trees, but forget about the juniper.
In this case, on next year rust will attack the garden again. The mycelium lives on juniper for many years and produces basidiospores every spring.
Mistake #3. The frequency of treatments is not observed.
Chemicals against rust on apple trees
To destroy the fungus-gymnosporangium chemicals selected taking into account the growing season in which the apple tree is located. The following drugs are commonly used:
| Vegetation phase | Drug name | Description of the drug |
| Green cone phase | Copper sulfate | Copper sulfate is a time-tested fungicide that is effective against all types of fungal diseases of apple trees. Available in powder form. To treat rust, 300 g is diluted in 10 liters of water. |
| Budding phase | "Abiga Peak" | A copper-containing preparation with a broad spectrum of action. Combines well in a tank mixture with insecticides. Diluted at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters of water. |
| "Horus" | A systemic drug from the aminopyrimidine class. Protects against a range of fungal infections, including scab and rust. 2 g is diluted in 10 liters of water. | |
| Fruit filling phase | "Skor" | Systemic Swiss fungicide of the triazole class. Blocks the growth of mycelium and the process of spore formation. Doesn't wash off in the rain. Diluted at the rate of 2 ml per 10 liters of water. |
| "Rayok" | A broad-spectrum drug based on difenoconazole, quickly penetrates plant tissue and blocks the development and germination of fungal spores. Dilute 2 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water. |
During the apple tree blossom chemicals It is better not to use so as not to harm pollinating insects. Fungicide treatment is usually stopped a month before harvesting. When using chemicals, you must remember individual means protection - gloves, mask, etc. Spraying should be done either in the morning, after the dew has disappeared, or in the evening. The weather should be calm and dry, preferably cloudy - bright sun, heating the drops of drugs on the leaves can cause a chemical burn.
Tip #2. If there are concerns that the drugs will penetrate into the tissues of the fruit and harm health, you can use Fitolavin, which is safe in this regard. It can be applied even 2 days before harvesting.
Folk ways to combat rust on an apple tree
Gymnosporangium fungus does not respond well to soft folk remedies. But according to some gardeners, initial stage infection, the following decoctions and infusions have some effect:
- Ash lye. The bucket is filling wood ash two-thirds, add water to the top, stir well and place in the sun. Leave while stirring until a yellowish soapy substance begins to float to the surface. Carefully drain it, dilute it with water in a 1:1 ratio and treat the apple tree.
- Horsetail decoction. Fill half a bucket of fresh plant material with water to the top, boil and leave for 24 hours. Strain and use to spray apple trees.
- Soda ash solution. Take 5 tbsp per bucket of water. spoons of soda ash and half a piece laundry soap. Prepare a solution and spray the apple tree.
- Iodine solution. In a 10-liter bucket of water, dilute 10 ml of 5% alcohol tincture iodine and spray the apple tree three times with an interval of 3 days.
- Wormwood "kvass". Take half a bucket of fresh wormwood herb and fill it to the top with water. Cover with a lid and place in partial shade to ferment. When foam appears on the surface, strain the kvass, dilute it 1:5 and spray the apple tree.
The effectiveness of folk remedies strongly depends on the degree and area of fungal damage and on the stage of its development. It is better to use them as an addition to treatment with chemical fungicides.
Instead of wormwood, you can use garlic arrows to prepare “kvass” against rust. Agrotechnical measures to combat rust on apple trees
In addition to spraying, the plan to combat rust and prevent its spread includes the following agricultural practices:
- sanitary pruning of affected apple tree shoots;
- sanitary pruning of affected juniper shoots;
- phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Daily action plan to combat rust on an apple tree
If it was not possible to avoid damage to the apple orchard by rust, the control plan may look something like this:
| Deadlines | Way to fight |
| 1 day | Trimming diseased apple tree shoots 5-7 cm below the affected area. Search and destruction of the source of infection - diseased juniper. Clearing trunk circle, soil treatment with copper sulfate solution. |
| Day 2 | Spraying the apple tree with one of the fungicides. Select the drug depending on the phase of the growing season. Spraying juniper with the same product. |
| 4 day | Watering with potassium humate. |
| Day 7 | Repeated spraying of apple and juniper trees with the selected fungicide. |
| Day 14 | Treatment of apple trees with ash lye. |
| 30 day | Spraying apple and juniper trees with another chemical fungicide. |
| Day 37 | Repeated spraying with fungicide. |
| 40 day | Foliar feeding of apple trees with potassium monophosphate. Watering with potassium humate. |
| After harvest | Sanitary pruning of the apple tree, removal of shoots on the trunk or root shoots. Whitewashing of the trunk and the lower part of the skeletal branches. Treatment of the tree trunk circle with the drug “Fitolavin” and mulching. |
| Next spring | Spraying an apple tree with a solution of copper sulfate in the “green cone” phase. Spraying neighboring juniper plantings with copper sulfate. |
| Before flowering | Treatment of apple trees with a tank mixture of the preparations “Horus”, “Fufanon-Nova” and “Epin-Extra”. |
Tip #3. After sanitary pruning For apple trees, all cuts must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate and covered with garden varnish.
Preventive spraying with one of the folk remedies can be carried out throughout the season at intervals of one week. It is important to constantly monitor the condition of the apple tree leaves. If the development of fungus is noticed somewhere, the infected shoot should be cut out immediately.
The effect of rust on the growth and development of apple trees
Unfortunately, once rust appears on a site, it will not be possible to get rid of it in one season. Even if you come to your senses in time and carry out all the measures described above, you may encounter the problem again next year. Therefore, preventative treatments against rust will have to be carried out over the next three seasons.
If this is not done, there is a risk of a sharp decrease in garden productivity. Rust, inhibiting photosynthesis, leaves the apple tree without normal nutrition. Oppressed plants not only bear less fruit. Their wood ripens worse, and such apple trees go into winter weakened and poorly prepared.
Gardeners' questions about rust on apple trees
Question No. 1. If rust appears on an apple tree, can neighboring apple and pear trees become infected?
Fungi of the genus Gymnosporangium affect both apple and pear trees. In this case, pears suffer more. However, these plants cannot directly infect each other. The infection spreads only through juniper growing nearby.
Question No. 2. Is it possible to plant any plants next to apple trees to protect against rust?
Unfortunately, there are no specific plants that could protect the apple tree from fungal damage. But you can plant it between apple trees and juniper " green walls" For example, purple willow or hawthorn are excellent for creating them.
Question No. 3. Are there varieties of apple trees that are resistant to rust?
Exist. These include the late winter Liberty apple tree. This is one of the most problem-free plants. Many rust-resistant varieties were bred in Dagestan, in the Mountain Botanical Garden: Sapudal, Cheer Kirin, Tsutarab.
Question No. 4. Are the fruits of an apple tree infected with rust dangerous for humans?
If the fruits on a diseased apple tree have time to ripen, you can safely eat them. It is only important to maintain sufficient time from the last fungicide treatment until harvest.
The development of a fungus has its own waves, and they manifest themselves in the following:
- Flowering phenophase. Already during this period, small brown dots appear on the flowers. Sometimes they merge, making the flower bordered with rust;
- Ovary up to 2 cm. During this period, rust affects the foliage;
- Early July- manifestation on leaves;
- End of August, early September - mass spotting and leaf fall.
What is affected
The leaves of the apple tree are most affected.
Assessing where “rust” is most evident, it can be distributed as follows:
- leaf - from 21 to 70%;
- fruits - from 0.7 to 4%;
- kidneys - from 7 to 36%;
- flowers - from 35 to 40%.
IN different years and percentages can vary significantly from place to place.
Varietal sensitivity
Northern Sinap is one of the varieties that often suffer from Alternaria blight.
Not all varieties are equally susceptible to fungal attack. A list of the most sensitive varieties has already been compiled, including the following:
- Delicious;
- Sinap northern;
- April;
- Forest-steppe;
- Rossoshansky striped.
Experienced gardeners, seeing damage to the garden from year to year, get rid of old varieties and give preference to resistant, new varieties.
Where does the mushroom overwinter?
The source of the disease is hidden in fallen leaves.
Microscopic mushroom tolerates low temperatures well. The wintering shelter for conidia becomes:
- fallen rusty leaves;
- tree bark;
- kidneys;
- shoots.
Sometimes it seems that the fungus is attacking healthy leaves, but this is not the case. Immunity healthy plant pretty strong to fight. But the moniliosis lesion is “decimated” and Alternaria begins its reproduction.
How to deal with rust stains
Autumn cleaning of fallen leaves significantly reduces the spread of fungal infections.
Initially, you should strictly adhere to sanitation rules and carry out:
- autumn leaf cleaning with removal outside the garden;
- cleaning old bark from the trunk and skeletal branches;
- maintain row spacing under black fallow;
- dig up tree trunk circles for the winter;
- whitewash the trunk with lime mortar;
- regular treatment of wood with fungicidal preparations.
How to spray a tree
American and Japanese researchers have proven the greatest effectiveness in alternating copper-containing preparations with fungicides. If the garden was very affected by Alternaria in past years, then it should be treated every 14 days.
For spraying the best way A complex of such drugs has proven itself: Chorus 75 WG, Spd 25 EC, Switch 62.5 WG .
- First treatment- beginning of budding: Chorus.
- The second 14 days after the first: Chorus (cyprodinil - the basis of the drug);
- Third after flowering. Combine: Chorus and Spd 250 EU;
- The fourth is used during the period of fruit ripening: Switch 62.5 WG.
Alternative drugs
The following products are also suitable for use:
- Discor. The active principle is difenocorazole. The solution is prepared from 3 ml per 10 liters of water. Up to 4 liters of solution are consumed per tree;
- The keeper. Same active substance and dilution proportions as Discor;
- Strobe. The active ingredient is kresoxim-methyl. To dilute in 10 liters of water, 2 g of the drug is required.
These preparations enjoy well-deserved respect among gardeners. They are safe for bees, it can be used during the flowering period, and regardless of the amount of rain.
The active substance penetrates into the wood tissue even when wetting occurs only on one side of the leaf plate. It can be successfully used at low and high temperatures, as well as on a leaf damp from rain. Low toxicity for warm-blooded animals makes the product even more desirable for treating home gardens.
Experienced gardeners manage to use all of the listed preparations during the season. However, not a single one can be repeated.
It is especially effective to carry out treatments alternating them with Bordeaux mixture.
Bordeaux mixture is the simplest and most common fungicide, proven by many years of experience among gardeners.
Its main active ingredient is copper sulfate. When falling on the fungus and its spores, droplets containing the base completely inactivate the pathogen . This drug is old and has been showing its effectiveness for decades.
Some gardeners treat trees with urea ( 5% solution) after the leaves fall. Experiments show that such a measure does not reduce the number of pathogenic pathogens and does not reduce its viability.
Features of treatments
Since the pathogen is omnipresent, it is on leaves, bark, and shoots, it must be treated with special care.
To obtain a positive result, it is necessary to completely spray the entire orchard.
- You can’t spray it lightly and forget it for a long time - this makes no sense. Such an event will not help the garden.
- Wood should be processed from top to bottom. Beginning with outside the tree should go to the inner one, and then return again. Complete wetting of all parts of the wood will ensure penetration of the drug and a decent effect. When processing, you must not forget about the trunk and the area around the trunk. Soil and grass should be no exception. The more thoroughly the spraying and complete wetting is done, the less likely it is that a second outbreak will return.
- The apple tree may not be alone in the garden. In addition, apple trees can also grow nearby. Every effort should be made to treat as large an area as possible (including neighbors).
- When preparing preparations for processing and having read the instructions, it is advisable to combine them with acaricidal substances . Thus, both the fungus and the insects that carry the pathogen will be destroyed.
conclusions
By following sanitation rules and promptly treating the apple tree with a change in fungicidal agents, you can ensure that even non-resistant varieties will produce an excellent harvest of healthy apples.
Video about autumn eradicating garden spraying
