This type of radish has an elliptical shape and a bright red color. The circumference of the fruit is 10 cm. The pulp is white, juicy, with a slight tang. Is immune to bolting and diseases. Radishes are planted in April and after 22-24 days you get ripe vegetables. Productivity 1.9 kg/m2. Grows both in open soil and under film and in greenhouses.
A distinctive feature of this variety is its ability to be stored for up to two months at a temperature of +5, without losing its taste and beneficial properties. Radishes are white outside and inside. The diameter of the root crop is 4-5 cm. The pulp is high density and has excellent taste. Resistant to diseases. Full ripening time is 19-31 days. The first sowing is done in March. Productivity 1.3 kg/m2.
Radish variety Alex
Super early look. The growing season is only 16-18 days. Due to its insensitivity to day length, it can be grown all year round. The vegetable is round and red. The pulp is snow-white, juicy and very tasty. High resistance to diseases and bolting. Productivity is 1.7-2.3 kg/m2. It is grown throughout Ukraine and Moldova, partly in Russia and Georgia.
Radish variety Cherry Orchard
A mixture of early radish species, the growing season of which is 16-22 days. All root vegetables have a round shape and different colors. The pulp is whitish, juicy, crispy. It retains its taste and beneficial qualities for a long time and remains dense. Productivity is high - 1.2-3 kg/m2. Sown at the end of April in loose, fertile soil. They need regular watering and loosening. You should avoid overripening the fruits, as they quickly become tasteless.
A very early variety of radish with an average yield of 1-1.5 kg/m2. The fruits are cylindrical in shape, have a circumference of 2.5-3.5 cm, are red in color with white juicy pulp and a delicate taste. Good resistance against diseases. It is grown both in open ground and in greenhouses. The time for the first sowing is April. The vegetative period is 16-18 days.
Radish variety Zarya
Radishes of this variety contain a large amount of vitamins and ascorbic acid. The root vegetable is round, raspberry-red in color, with a diameter of 4.5-5 cm. The pulp is white, slightly pungent in taste with high density. The variety is highly resistant to diseases, but requires regular weeding, fertilizing and watering. It is grown both in open ground and under film. Growing under film gives greater yield. The ripening period is 18-24 days. Sowing begins in April. Productivity 2-3 kg/m2 depending on the growing method.
Radish variety Risen Butter
A variety of large radishes with a circumference of up to 10 cm. The vegetable has a round shape and red color. The pulp is very juicy and sweet in taste. Good resistance to bloom and disease. Sowing begins in April, the fruit ripening period is 25 days. Productivity – 1.7 kg/m2.
Radish variety Yum Yum
A very early variety of radish, the ripening period of which is 18-20 days. It is distinguished by its high vitamin content in the fruit and the ability to use radish leaves in salads. The vegetable is round, red, weighing 15-30g. The variety is resistant to diseases and bolting. The pulp is white, juicy and delicate in taste. Fertility is 2.5-3 kg/m2. The first sowing period is the end of March - April. They are grown mainly in open soil.
Yellow radishes are small in size - 2-3 cm in circumference with a rough surface. The pulp is snow-white, very juicy and crispy. The variety is characterized by high fertility, resistance to disease and drought. The vegetative period is 30-35 days. Productivity 1.2-2.5 kg/m2. The time for the first sowing is April-May.
The very first harvests of vegetables can be obtained by growing onions - batun, dill and everyone's favorite early ripening radish.
To speed up seed pecking, a warm, moist environment is created and additionally illuminated if the seedlings are expected in a greenhouse or on a windowsill. Some gardeners germinate seed before planting, keeping it in a damp cloth for several days, or soaking it in a growth stimulator.
At what depth to plant radishes and when will they germinate?
Radish sowing depth
It will not be possible to get quick shoots from deeply buried seeds: until they swell, until they make their way through the thickness of the dark earth... It is better not to bury them too far, but to plant them to a depth of no more than 1.5 cm.
The ideal option is considered to be a planting depth of radish seeds of 1 cm, no matter in what conditions the crop will be grown: on a balcony, windowsill, in greenhouse conditions or open garden beds.
We make grooves (holes) 1 cm deep, moisten them, place the seeds there at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other, sprinkle with soil, compact and water again - carefully, without eroding the soil and without washing out the future radish.
What determines the germination of radishes?
The germination time of radish seeds depends on many factors:
- Soil moisture level: 75-80% is considered optimal, so crops must be watered frequently so that the grains swell and hatch faster.
- Temperature conditions outside, in a greenhouse or apartment: the warmer it is, the better the vegetables sprout.
- Presence of frost: the colder it is, the longer it takes for radishes to sprout.
- Size of achenes: large ones germinate better than small ones and produce strong seedlings.
- Features of the variety: some germinate earlier, others later.
- Soil quality: in light, loose soils, sprouts appear faster; in a heavy, unfertilized environment, they may not appear at all, unable to make their way to the surface.
After how many days the radish sprouts depends on the quality of the seed material and its freshness. It is advisable to plant seeds that have been stored for no longer than a year and sort them out before planting, discarding small and grayish grains: they may be infected with diseases.
We remove empty seeds like this: fill the purchased material with water, after half an hour, pour out the garbage and empty seed, the good one will remain at the bottom of the dish.
Approximately when does radish emerge under different conditions?
Depending on the climatic and other conditions listed above, radishes can sprout in the following periods.
At a temperature of 4-5 degrees Celsius and night frosts, germination will be delayed for two to three weeks.
If frosts reach minus five, frost-resistant plants, although they hatch, will not develop until the weather warms up. The harvest from such radishes will be late, even if they are early ripening varieties.
- At optimal humidity and a temperature of 18-20 degrees Celsius, seedlings from seeds sown without soaking appear on the fourth or fifth day. Seeds that are pre-soaked or kept in growth stimulants germinate in 3 days.
- At 10 degrees, germination occurs after 10-14 days, especially if the grains were not soaked. At what depth should radishes be planted without soaking? 1 cm, not deeper.
- Summer plantings of radishes sprout on the sixth or seventh day, but if the seeds are kept in water for several hours before sowing, they will germinate in three to four days.
Experienced gardeners have noticed how many days it takes for radishes sown in spring to emerge. When planted without pre-treatment, it can sprout in 7-14 days.
When soaking the seed material in growth stimulants (ordinary warm water), the seeds will germinate half as fast and produce an early harvest of juicy fruits.
Now it’s clear how many days it takes for radishes to sprout, depending on the variety and growing conditions. The main thing is to provide future seedlings with an optimal environment for germination: water regularly, not allowing the top layer of soil to dry out, and provide, if necessary, additional lighting and heat. But it is better to treat the achenes by keeping them in water (a growth activator) and get vigorous shoots and an excellent radish harvest in a short time.
Radish- an annual plant of the cabbage family. In the year of sowing, the plants form a leaf rosette and a storage organ - a root crop. In some varieties, the growing season continues - the plants form stems, inflorescences, flowers, fruits and seeds, after which they die.
The root system is taproot, penetrating deeply into the soil. The storage organ, the root crop, has a complex structure and consists of a modified shortened stem with a rosette of leaves and the root itself.
The most common surface colors of the root crop are: white, white-green, red, pink-red, pink-red with a white tip, purple and variegated.
The shape of the root crop is varied and can vary from round to spindle-shaped. Based on weight, root crops in the economic ripeness phase are divided into small (15-20 g), medium (21-50 g) and large (51-200 g).
During development, radish plants form several leaf formations: basal, stem and sessile on the stem. The arrangement of leaves is rosette. The shape of rosette leaves can be solid, elliptical, or spatulate, lyre-shaped. There are solid, notched, wavy, unequally toothed, serrated leaf edges. The leaf blade is often pubescent. The leaf color varies from dark green to yellow-green. The petiole can be long or short, thin or thick, glabrous or pubescent, often pigmented, and sometimes has a waxy coating.
The color of the petioles is green, white-green, red, purple. The stem is round, pubescent or bare, ascending or erect, strongly or weakly branched. Pigmentation is often observed in leaf nodes: in varieties with red roots - red, in varieties with white roots - purple.
Inflorescence- brush. Pedicels are almost equal in length, pubescent or glabrous. The petals are one-color or two-color, the veins are pigmented. The color is white, carmine pink, light or dark purple. There are six stamens, arranged in two circles. Ovary superior.
Fetus- a dry pod, segmented or non-segmented, with a spout of varying lengths. The shape of the fruit is different.
The seed is smooth, sometimes with a finely reticulated surface, round or flat-round with a light brown or brown surface. The weight of 1000 seeds is 7-10 g. 1 g contains 110-130 seeds. The germination rate of class I seeds is no less than 85%, class II seeds are no less than 60%. Seeds remain viable for 5-6 years.
Radish- cross-pollinating plant. From sowing the seeds to the ripening of the testes, 150-170 days pass, from planting the queen cells to the ripening of the seeds - 110-125 days. Flowering of the seed plants begins 50-70 days after sowing the seeds and 25-35 days after planting the queen cells, and lasts 30-35 days. The formation, filling and ripening of seeds ends 65-70 days after flowering.
The color of the flower petals correlates with the color of the root vegetable: varieties with white-colored root vegetables have white or blue-violet flowers, varieties with a solid red root color have bright purple-red flowers. The varieties are red with a white tip and have white or pale pink flowers.
Radish varieties easily cross-pollinate with each other. Radishes are cross-pollinated by both radish varieties and wild radishes, so the spatial isolation between them in an open place is set to 200 m, and in a protected place - 600 m. There should not be a single wild radish plant in the radish seed plots. The areas adjacent to the radishes are weeded, and the borders adjacent to the radish plot are systematically mowed, preventing wild radishes from blooming.
Hybrids with wild radish form a branched woody root instead of a root crop. They form flowering stems early, have powerful, densely pubescent leaves, and flowers of purple or violet-red color. Hybrids between radishes and radish varieties are powerful, with large, heavily pubescent leaves, fleshy roots, oval or oval-elongated, with a white or purple color.
Growing radishes is so common that there should be no secrets or unknowns left. It seems that everyone knows how to grow radishes juicy and tasty. It is planted in the country, on the balcony, even in the house on the windowsill, in the garden, in greenhouses and greenhouses. The technology of growing radishes in space is even known, because they grew on the International Space Station. But here’s the problem - sometimes, instead of a wonderful root vegetable, he prefers to grow a flower arrow. But it happens that seemingly good care of radishes does not justify itself at all - the root crops grow hard, dry or, on the contrary, crack or become bitter. So how to properly care for this mysterious crop?
Radishes are an edible vegetable from the Brassica (Cruciferous) family. Its closest relative is the radish, which is why the pungent taste is probably present to a greater or lesser extent in all varieties. We usually grow annual varieties, but there are also biennial varieties, when the seeds ripen only in the second year of the growing season.
Since we are most interested in the root crop, cultivated varieties are divided according to the speed of ripening of this particular part of the plant.
There are ultra-early varieties that can be consumed within 2.5 or 3 weeks after sowing, early varieties that ripen in 23–30 days, mid-ripening varieties that ripen in 30–35 days after sowing, and late-ripening varieties in 36–45 days. Late varieties, as a rule, are sown in August, they ripen in the fall, and early ones are used for spring-summer cultivation.
A properly grown root vegetable has a pleasant, slightly pungent taste, crispy, juicy white pulp and various shapes: a ball with a diameter of 2 cm, a flattened or elongated cylinder, as well as a spindle up to 10 cm long. The outside is usually colored red, orange , purple or yellow color depending on the variety.
Radishes are an indispensable ingredient in spring salads; they help restore damaged immunity in winter due to the presence of vitamins and microelements necessary for the body. Fiber and essential oils also do not remain idle when they enter our gastrointestinal tract. Radish has a mild choleretic agent; it stimulates metabolism, removes excess fluid and toxins, stimulates intestinal function, and stabilizes the amount of sugar. They say that with regular consumption of this vegetable, blood vessels acquire youthful elasticity, memory and well-being improve.
But these same qualities can ruin the well-being of people who have serious diseases of the duodenum, stomach, pancreas, liver or kidneys. If you have problems with these organs or with the thyroid gland, radishes should not be consumed too often, combined with other foods or boiled.
This wonderful vegetable has been known since ancient times. Its name is translated from Latin as “root,” but greens are also eaten. Central Asia is considered the homeland of radishes, from where it came to Europe in the 16th century. He looked like a white carrot then, which did not bother the French chefs, and they know how to make food fashionable. Peter I brought the useful root vegetable to Russia from Amsterdam.
Today, growing radishes not only in the country house and garden, but even on an industrial scale in winter and summer all over the world is considered common and familiar. Breeders are working to create new varieties and hybrids that make growing radishes easier and more enjoyable.
Sowing technology
Large seeds are selected for sowing, and this is more important for a greenhouse than for an open bed. Since seeding material is not cheap, many gardeners prepare the seeds themselves. They sift small seeds through a sieve with 2–3 mm mesh; the largest ones are selected for closed ground.
The soil for radishes should be light, nutritious and not acidic; it is best to prepare it in the fall for spring sowing. Immediately after harvesting potatoes (cucumbers, onions, garlic, tomatoes), which are the best predecessor of radishes, from the garden, you need to thoroughly dig up the soil, add compost or humus, at least 1 bucket per 1 square meter. m. If the soil is acidic, then add lime. How much it needs to be added depends on the degree of acidification. If the soil is heavy, then peat or sand is also added to it to make the soil in the garden bed lighter and more breathable.
In winter, the prepared soil rests, and in the spring, before sowing, it is dug up again, mineral fertilizers and ash are added, if necessary (it also makes the soil more alkaline), leveled, and rows are laid out. Just before planting the seeds, if this happens in winter or early spring, the rows are watered with very hot water. At such times, radishes are sown under film or covered with non-woven fabric to retain heat during the day and at night.
Before sowing, seeds are disinfected by soaking for 30 minutes in a bright solution of potassium permanganate. Some gardeners advise additionally treating them with special preparations to accelerate growth, but most often radishes sprout just fine without this. Then you need to spread out the washed seeds and dry them for as long as necessary so that they do not stick to your hands.
Usually, radishes are sown in rows, leaving up to 10 cm between them, and the seeds are laid out every 3–4 cm, but you can sow them using the nest method, leaving 5 cm between the seeds. They are deepened by 1–1.5 cm, and varieties with long root crops - by 1.5–2 cm. You should not place the seeds deeper in spring and summer, this will lengthen the germination time. But those brave owners who sow radishes in the fall deepen them by 3 cm so that the seeds do not accidentally germinate in winter.
In order not to suffer with small seeds over the garden bed, some experienced gardeners glue the seeds in advance with flour paste at the required distance to paper, for example, toilet paper or newspaper, and then just lay it out in the right place and sprinkle it with earth.
There is an opinion that it is better to rely on excellent germination and place one seed at a time than to sow them frequently and then thin them out, injuring the delicate roots of those plants that remain to grow; this will slow down growth and weaken the plant.
Having sprinkled the seeds with soil, you need to tamp it down so as to ensure complete adherence to the surface of the seed, and then water it thoroughly from a watering can with a fine strainer - a divider.
Video “A little trick when planting radishes”
See what trick experienced gardeners use when planting radishes in a greenhouse in the country.
Care
Proper care of radishes involves the most common actions: they need to be watered, fed, weeded, thinned, and protected from diseases and pests.
Radishes need to be watered evenly and abundantly, since their root system is not very developed, and the main root grows from 10 to 30 cm, depending on the variety - it is at this depth that moisture should appear after watering. Therefore, after the emergence of seedlings, the soil is moistened to a depth of 5–7 cm, and then even deeper as it grows. Water as the soil dries, usually this happens after 2 or 3 days, but strong winds and sun speed up this process, which means you will have to water more often; there are days in the summer at the dacha that you have to water twice - in the morning and in the evening.
If the soil is properly fertilized before planting, the radish will not have to go hungry during its short growing season. But on depleted lands, agricultural technology includes fertilizing with organic fertilizers after emergence. At dachas, fertilizing is often combined with watering. Water the plants with highly diluted slurry (ten-fold dilution) or bird droppings (twenty-fold dilution). Under no circumstances should you fertilize with fresh manure or undiluted bird droppings - this is detrimental to vegetables.
They say that radish roots are capable of accumulating nitrates, so it is better to avoid uncontrolled fertilization of the garden. A good alternative could be watering with infusion, or more precisely, mash made from chopped herbs.
Water the radishes with ash and tobacco infusion, so that the ash and tobacco remain on the leaves - this is done to prevent diseases and repel pests, such as slugs and snails. The cruciferous flea beetle causes the most harm. Many gardeners prefer to simply cover the plants with non-woven fabric while it takes off. Timely weeding also protects plants from possible diseases and pests. You can also mulch the beds with peat or humus, compost - this will prevent weeds from growing, retain moisture and allow you to loosen the soil less often.
It is necessary to loosen the beds so that air can get to the roots. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots, but to a sufficient depth: 3–5 cm in the first week and a half, and then up to 10 cm.
You can grow radishes almost all year round, only in winter in greenhouses they turn on not only heating, but also lighting to extend daylight hours, and in summer they cover them with an opaque covering material to reduce it. In winter, it is quite possible to grow radishes at home, only if the room is not too hot. It grows well at an air temperature of 15–20 degrees, easily survives frost, but does not tolerate heat well. Therefore, in the countryside, early varieties are most often cultivated, which are sown in early spring or even winter in order to harvest before the onset of the summer heat. But the harvest stored in mid-autumn is better stored, and sown, accordingly, in August.
It is believed that radishes need no more than 12 hours of daylight, so they will not produce a harvest in the middle of summer. But it is known that in the cool summer in Karelia it grows wonderfully without shelter, and it is light there all day and night. How much light is needed at different air temperatures is decided differently for each region.
Problems that may arise
With proper agricultural technology, no problems should arise. But if you allow the soil to dry out for a short time, then no matter how much you water it, the root crops will be hard and fibrous, and if the drying out is prolonged or repeated, the plant will stop growing root crops and will throw out the shoot.
Early bolting can occur if thickened plantings are not thinned out, or if the plants simply do not grow root crops due to lack of space.
Bolting threatens plants if the air temperature rises above 25 degrees and the sun does not set for more than 12 hours. When industrially growing radishes for seeds, they are left to grow, without interest in root crops, in the summer at rising temperatures and lengthening daylight hours. But if we do not want to spoil the taste of root vegetables, then under no circumstances should radishes be allowed to bloom. Even when only the arrow of a peduncle is formed, the plant ceases to direct all its forces and nutrients to the formation of a root crop.
The tops, and not the parts that interest us, will actively grow with an excess of nitrogen, which should also not be allowed.
