Window opening after installation plastic windows looks unpresentable. Pieces of plaster and polyurethane foam stick out, and the material of the walls is visible in places. To close all this, various methods are used. The most affordable and practical is the use plastic slopes. It is better to equip them with sandwich panels, when foamed polypropylene is laid between two layers of plastic. They are durable, dense, made of high quality material.
How to make slopes on plastic windows? In total, there are two key methods: with and without the use of a starting profile. Both of these methods are effective and give good results.
Without starting profile
Apply this method installations window slopes It is possible when there is too little distance from the window frame to the wall. Installation with a starting profile in this case is either very complicated or completely impossible. The arrangement of slopes of plastic windows begins with preparing the opening. In this case, the foam fragments are cut off stationery knife. It doesn't take too much effort to remove it.
The polyurethane foam should not be cut, it should be removed evenly. In this case, it will cope with its function of fixing the frame. It will also insulate it, preventing drafts from the street. It is also necessary to remove pieces of plaster that interfere with work and protrude, giving the window opening an unattractive appearance. If they hold up well, you can leave them alone. The foam will slide off less.
Along the perimeter of the window, a thin 10 by 40 mm strip is nailed with the wide side to the slope. Usually it is nailed as is, but it can be leveled by placing thin planks and pieces of plywood in the necessary places. Following this, the foam is cut around the perimeter of the frame so that the sandwich panels fit here. It should go 1 cm.
The foam must be cut carefully so that the plastic does not get damaged. After this, they begin processing the plastic panels. You can do the standard thing by making a stencil after all the necessary measurements. To do this, take a sheet of paper. It should be larger in size than the window slope. They apply it to it, crimp it, remove the excess. The paper is cut along the curved edges, tried on, and adjustments are made as necessary. The top part of the frame is the easiest place to start.
After forming the paper stencil, outline it on the plastic. Approximately 1 cm will go into the foam groove. It is necessary to cut with a small margin, since cutting will be easier than covering it up later. Using a hacksaw, they try on the plastic and make adjustments so that it stands up straight, without bending. Align so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edges turn out to be almost even; where necessary, some finishing is done with a file.
After removing the strip of material along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the plank, drill a hole according to the thickness of the nails, retreating 6 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to secure the plastic without causing damage to it. The slope is then put back into place. Take a balloon with polyurethane foam and little by little fill the entire gap with foam. We must try to get as deep as possible, but a large consumption of material is undesirable. Foam can spill and damage the plastic.
Working with polyurethane foam
If there is smooth plastic, the foam provides good adhesion to it. If you have to treat the surface directed towards the wall, it is necessary to use a primer or sand it for improved adhesion. Another nuance is that moisture is necessary for optimal polymerization of the foam. That is why before installing the plastic, the slope must be sprayed with water from a spray bottle. There should be no dust on the wall. It is cleaned with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the solution is loose, treat the opening with a penetrating primer in advance. It carries the function of binding concrete particles together.
Subsequently, the panel rises. Nails are inserted into the hole and the outer edge is secured in the strip. Internal surfaces are fixed against the window frame.
The work is carried out according to the same algorithm:
- cut out a paper template and try it on;
- transfers it to plastic, cutting out the side of the plastic;
- process the edges sandpaper so that there is a minimum of space between the upper slope and the panel.
Next steps include:
Working on the vertical parts of slopes requires a slightly different approach. Foam is applied here before parts are installed. The panel located along the far edge is processed if it is ready for installation. She is brought under the frame. The foam strip should be applied in a thin stream, stepping back slightly from the edge. After inserting the plastic part, the cut groove is filled with the rest of the foam gap. Before doing this, be sure to wet the wall. After this, the slope is pressed, leveled and secured in the plank with nails.
To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during polymerization, they glue in the lower and upper parts masking tape joints. But even if all manipulations are performed perfectly, small gaps will remain. They are covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes, similar to packaging with polyurethane foam. The product is applied in the same way, through a mounting gun.
Further actions
All excess gaps must be filled and leveled. Excess acrylic must be removed damp cloth or a sponge. This must be done carefully until the surface is completely clean. Manipulation is carried out in small areas. The acrylic should not be allowed to harden, otherwise there will be problems with its removal. It is more convenient to seal cracks immediately. The horizontal slope panel is processed first. After this there are joints, then they move downwards. First close the gaps on one side, then on the opposite. Lastly, it is carried out processing joints with window sills.
It takes 12 to 24 hours to dry, depending on the characteristics of the sealant. If the gaps are large, the acrylic may be pulled into the seam. All these areas must be worked out again using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are unevenness and roughness, you can smooth out these defects with fine-grained sandpaper, folding it in half. It is recommended to carefully level the materials while they are gray, otherwise the plastic may suffer mechanical damage.
The slopes can be considered installed. They should be puttied when the final polymerization of the foam occurs. Their surface should be flat relative to the plane of the walls. After this, the protective blue film is removed.
Panels are considered the most unreliable material for installing plastic slopes. Even wall ones are easily pressed through, and their front layer is imperfect. It is enough to shine light on them, and the jumpers will be immediately visible. IN plastic window sills This is not observed in sandwich panels.
Installation with starting profile
To install slopes on plastic windows with your own hands, first prepare the window opening. How it's done:
- cut off the mounting foam;
- remove all elements that are not secured well enough;
- clean the surface from dust;
- work area treated with a primer for improved adhesion.
A wooden block is fixed around the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Select the thickness depending on the distance. It should almost fit into the frame. Adjust one side of the block with a plane and make a slight tilt. This creates an angle, which is comparable to the slope installation angle. You can saw it off, but it is quite difficult to do such work with precision. And in terms of labor costs, this is quite problematic, unless it is available a circular saw with adjustable angle.
After processing, the block is screwed around the perimeter of the opening onto the walls. The method of fastening depends on what material it is made of. If the wall is brick, you can place the block on the screws. For concrete it is necessary to install dowels. You can purchase a starter profile in the store. It is installed with the long side facing the block and secured. Fixation with staples construction stapler V in this case convenient. If you don't have such a device nearby, you can use flat-head screws or small nails.
Setting up a starting profile
When choosing a starting profile, you need to take tight modifications. They cost more, but you will need less of them, only 3 m per window. The dense profile holds the plastic well. The soft product bends and turns out to be ugly in appearance. Another important point is the need to press the profile tightly against the frame. Due to this, there will be no gaps or they will be minimal. In the upper part, when joining the horizontal and vertical profiles, you need to be especially careful. They must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. If there are small cracks, they must be sealed with acrylic.
It is most convenient to start working on this technology from the sidewalls. The starting profile is not fixed, after which the panel is inserted into it. But it is better if it is equipped with a thick layer of plastic and made of dense and expensive modifications. If you take cheap ceiling models, the front wall will turn out thin. In bright light you will be able to see the jumpers. Among other things, such plastic can be easily pressed even with a finger.
The plastic panel must be wider than the slope. If the resulting area is not enough, two products are used for joining. But in this case, in the joint area it will be necessary to additionally equip a vertical bar on which the first strip is fixed. The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Supporting it with your hand, you need to mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut off the products along the marked line.
The panel is reinstalled, at the same time they move it a little further from the wall and fill it with polyurethane foam, trying to avoid gaps, but also not allowing excess to form. Start from the far bottom corner. Near the nailed plank they pass from bottom to top. Once they reach the top, the foam expands slightly at the bottom.
Draw a line with polyurethane foam again, but try to stick to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam consumption, since the panel is placed under a slope. Having reached the middle, a strip of foam is laid out on the remaining surfaces and the panel is pressed as it should stand in the final version. Align and check. Secure it to the wall with masking tape. Part 2 is installed in the same way, and then the top part. You can cut it out in a similar way by cutting out a paper template and sanding the edges until they match perfectly.
Work after installation of parts
Once all parts of the slope have been installed and secured with masking tape, the object is left for complete polymerization. In the future, to avoid puttying the gaps between the wall and the slope, glue plastic corner for liquid nails. The main task is to ensure flat plane in the corners. A thin strip of glue is applied to both shelves of the corner and pressed. Run your hand along and hold for several minutes. Parts are installed around the entire perimeter. Before the glue dries, glue the corner shelves with masking tape and leave.
After a day, the tape is removed. You can consider the plastic slopes ready. If cracks are found anywhere, they must be covered with acrylic, as described earlier. Silicone is not recommended. In the light it will turn yellow. After a few years, the windows will not look very solid. The best option there will be white acrylic sealant. It is ideal for masking defects.
Salute, readers!
I see that my advice turns out to be useful and many people try them in practice. This makes me very happy!
One of the regular readers wrote a letter asking me to tell you about how to make slopes on installed windows with your own hands, which is what I dedicate this post to.
He writes that he was planning a renovation, but did not calculate that prices would rise so much.
The budget is not flexible, so I started doing some of the work myself. Slopes are just the kind of finishing that can be done by a professional.
Save on windows and read the instructions for action!
Often, when installing plastic windows in an apartment, especially if all existing windows are installed or replaced at once, you have to pay a tidy sum.
But not many people know that you can save significantly without losing quality, and perhaps even improve it by performing some operations yourself.
In particular, if you decide to make slopes for plastic windows yourself, you will save at least 20% of the order cost, or even more.
The procedure is not at all complicated and any economic person who knows how to handle a minimum set of household tools can cope with it.
What is needed to make slopes on plastic windows
So let's move on to detailed instructions about how to make slopes on plastic windows with your own hands. Initially it would make sense to stock up necessary tool, namely:
- Building level,
- Hammer,
- Construction stapler,
- Knife or scissors, or grinder, or hacksaw with small tooth for cutting plastic.
After making sure that the above tools are available, you can begin purchasing. necessary materials:
- We will need plastic panel, the length of which is calculated by adding the lengths of the side and top sides of the slope.
- The starting and so-called F-strip (a plastic profile resembling the letter F) is the same length as the plastic panel.
- We will nail the F profile to a 10-15 mm wooden block fixed to the side and top sides of the slopes.
- insulation for slopes, usually mineral wool is used.
- Dowel nails for attaching wooden blocks and screws for attaching the starting profile to window profile.
- White or other silicone identical to the color of plastic.
The first step is to secure wooden blocks around the perimeter of the opening, or rather on all sides where the slopes will be installed.
To do this, you need to measure and cut the bars to the required length, and then drill holes in them for the screws.
To do this, the block is aligned using a building level; it must be strictly vertical (horizontal for the upper slope) when looking in the direction of the window and not protrude beyond the wall when looking in the other direction.
After alignment, we mark and drill holes, drive dowel plugs into them and fasten the block, once again checking the verticality (horizontalness) of the level.
After this, you can begin attaching the F-shaped profile to the block. To do this, you need to cut it to size using a grinder, knife or other tool you have available.
First of all, we will cut out the profile sections for the side slopes; for this, we try to make one end of the section that will stand on the window sill perfectly flat; you can use a miter box for this.
As for the length of the segment, it is calculated as follows: the length of the slope is measured, then the width of the profile itself is added, or rather the part of it that will line the slope, after which we add another 20-30 mm of reserve and cut it off.
Helpful advice!
Before you can make slopes on plastic windows, you need to install a starting profile.
Next, you need to accurately measure a distance equal to the length of the slope from that part of the profile that will stand on the window sill, and from the remaining part cut off the strips intended for inserting the profile (two parallel strips on the profile).
After this, we nail the strip to the block with a stapler. We cut out the top strip by measuring the length of the slope and adding the width of the profile on both sides and 20-30 mm of margin for each side. We also secure it with brackets.
After this, at the intersection of the side and top strips of the profile, you can cut the strips at an angle of 45 degrees to form an even joint.
The last preparatory operation before you can make slopes on plastic windows is the installation of a starting profile. It is installed by fastening it to the window profile with self-tapping screws.
To do this, you need to make markings. This is done by drawing a vertical (horizontal for the upper slope) line on the profile; it is drawn according to the desired angle of the slope.
Then a strip is placed along the line and attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. At the joints, it is necessary to trim the profile in such a way that no obstacles are formed for the insertion of plastic having a length greater than the length of the profile.
After this, the panels are cut to the required size and installed in the starting and F-shaped profiles, the space between which is preliminarily laid with insulation.
After you have managed to make slopes on the plastic windows, you need to coat all the joints of the profiles and panels with silicone; this will not only make the structure airtight, but will also give the seams and joints a more attractive appearance.
source: remontim-sami.ru
A variety of modern building materials allows you to quickly and efficiently carry out any work related to both the construction of structures and the finishing and repair of finished real estate properties.
Today, more and more people prefer metal-plastic structures (windows, balconies, terraces) due to their high technical and economic characteristics and due to their impeccable appearance.
In addition, such designs significantly improve the performance of the walls of the house.
List of preparatory works
Measuring, installing and adjusting plastic windows is carried out by specialized teams, which is the key to the correct implementation of all technological measures and entitles the customer to warranty service.
But such operations as installing slopes of plastic windows, if desired, can be performed on your own.
There are slopes various types, and may differ in color, shape, materials from which they are made.
The most common materials used for the production of slopes are the following:
- drywall;
- plastic, MDF, sandwich panel;
- cement mortar;
- tree.
Also significant advantage such slopes are their low cost, durability, high speed execution installation work(3-4 hours), ease of maintenance, ability to choose any color segment.
Note!
A significant advantage of plastic slopes is their low cost, durability, high speed of installation work, ease of maintenance, and the ability to choose colors.
So, after the metal-plastic window has been installed and at least 36 hours have passed (the period of complete hardening of the polyurethane foam), you can install the window slopes.
First you need to decide on the list of necessary materials and tools required for such work.
Firstly, it is advisable to purchase plastic, and it is best to give preference to high-quality and durable products.
The initial cost savings when purchasing a cheap product may result in additional costs associated with repairing damaged items.
The thickness of the plastic should not be less than 8 millimeters, and the lengths of the panels should be equal to the specified dimensions of the opening in height and width. Accordingly, the depth of the slope should be no greater than the width of the plastic panel.
Secondly, you will need such Construction Materials: starting strip, F-shaped profile, polyurethane foam, cement mortar, silicone, small screws (bugs), tape, paper clips, insulation.
The tools you need to have are a hammer, a drill with a bit for self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a gun for silicone and polyurethane foam, a trowel, a spatula, a tape measure, and rags.
When all the necessary attributes have been prepared, you can begin the procedure of finishing the slopes of plastic windows.
The first step is to remove the shipping tape from the profile metal-plastic window and close up cement mortar cracks formed on the street side.
This procedure allows you to seal the outer assembly seam and hide the foam from direct sunlight, which has a destructive effect on this material.
In principle, as mortar Any mixture for exterior work can be used, be it putty or a special cement-based mixture. The external slopes of the windows can subsequently be coated with any dye.
After this, you can begin interior work.
A starting strip is taken and cut to the dimensions of the window (height, width, height), and then drilled using self-tapping screws to the profile around the perimeter. This strip will be the base for the plastic panel.
Then you need to prepare the panels for the slopes directly.
This is done as follows. First, the top panel is made; for this, plastic is cut to the size of the upper part of the opening and installed in the grooves of the starting strip, and then two side panels are made in the same way.
The resulting frame must be made in such a way that the following conditions are met:
- between the plastic and the base of the opening there was a gap of at least 20 millimeters (for filling with foam);
- the angle of rotation of the side elements of the slope was the same for the left and right side(measured using a square applied to the window profile in the upper and lower parts on the right and left);
- if the elements of plastic panels protrude excessively above the plane of the opening, then it is recommended to adjust their dimensions using a mounting knife;
- In the places where the panels join (in all corners), it is advisable to mount scraps of the starting profile, which will cover the unevenness of the cuts.
The next step is the production of edgings from an F-shaped profile. As with plastic, this process must begin with the top element.
The joining points of the F-shaped profile must be cut at 45 degrees to each other. A very serious stage in the manufacture of plastic slopes is the foaming of the resulting voids.
The difficulty is not to overdo it with this process, so that the foam does not open the slopes when it hardens.
To do this, it is advisable to foam the area around the perimeter of the window at the very base and lay the foam as bridges between the plastic and the old slope.
Another layer of foam is laid along the angle of the slope, and prepared F-shaped profiles are installed in the resulting space, and their fixation is best done using tape.
When the foam hardens (15-20 minutes), the structure becomes rigid and quite stable. The final step is to coat the cracks with a special sealant or silicone.
To ensure that the process of installing plastic slopes does not cause great difficulties for the contractor, during construction operations it is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations:
- Use PVC panels good quality, by color, corresponding color tone window profile;
- Before using the panels, remove (cut) the mounting tenon from them;
- Trimming and cutting of PVC panels is done using a mounting knife or jigsaw;
- To prevent deformation of the panels during the foam hardening process, you should use mounting foam with a low expansion coefficient, and also ensure mechanical fixation of the slope elements in a given position while the foam pre-sets (5 - 10 minutes);
- If necessary, technological gaps between the back of the PVC panels and the base of the opening can be laid thermal insulation materials(before the foaming process);
- To quickly remove traces of tape, it is best to use a cotton swab soaked in acetone;
- After making the slope, you should ensure that part of the opening under the window sill is plastered.
Everything is ready and your slopes will delight you for decades. That is, it became clear that plastic slopes for windows can be made with their own hands by almost any person with the slightest knowledge of the construction industry.
source: domgvozdem.ru
Plastic windows in our home are not a luxury, but a necessity. In addition to high aesthetic appeal, they reliably protect living space from wind, dust and city noise. But installing them is only half the battle.
You will need to beautifully design the window opening, i.e. install slopes.
- Plastering the surfaces of the window opening. In this case, completing the work will not cause any difficulties for anyone: everyone knows how to cook plaster mortar and apply it to the wall. Another thing is that skill plastering works Not everyone has it, but one way or another, if you put in a little work and diligence, it’s not difficult to make the slopes even.
- Installation of plastic slopes.
- Installation of plasterboard slopes.
Installing plasterboard slopes on plastic windows is the most commonly used method of decorating a window opening.
1. Measure the width of the slope with a slight overlap of 2-2.5 cm;
2. Draw the required panels on a sheet of gypsum board (moisture-resistant plasterboard sheet) and cut them out using special knife for working with drywall or jigsaw. In the second case, it is recommended to moisten the material with water to prevent the spread of gypsum dust. You should get 2 side panels and 1 top panel;
3. We start work from one of the sides. We install the gypsum board sheet so that it fits 2-2.5 cm into the groove between the plastic window itself and the wall;
4. Fill the seam with polyurethane foam inside slope between it and the wall, then apply 2 more strips of foam: in the middle of the slope (on the wall) and along its edge;
5. We apply a sheet of plasterboard so that it remains small space between it and the foam;
Helpful advice!
6. We fix the canvas with dowel-nails “quick installation” in increments of 30-40 cm. We carry out all work using a building level, checking the vertical installation of the canvas;
8. After 2-3 hours (time for the foam to harden), take putty (Fugenfüller, Uniflot, etc.), serpyanka (mesh mounting duct tape) and begin to putty the cracks and joints.
First we glue the serpyanka, then using a spatula and putty we level the surface of the slopes;
9. Install corners to protect cuts. You will need perforated galvanized or aluminum corners.
A layer of Fugenfüller is applied to the drywall with a spatula, a corner is set strictly according to the level and lightly rubbed with this putty composition;
10. Now you will need Vetonit VH putty, because... it is cement based. Using it, we putty and level the slopes so that the surface of the drywall is smooth;
11. After drying, the gypsum board is sanded.
Installing plastic slopes
These slopes are the easiest to install, easy to clean, and durable. Installation can be done both with and without insulation. Installing slopes on plastic windows with your own hands is so simple that any man can handle it.
We will need:
- Plastic sheet 6 m long and 8 mm thick;
- U-shaped starting bar;
- F-shaped plastic strip;
- The wooden slats are 1-1.5 cm thick. The width can be any: from 3 to 7 cm;
- Construction stapler and staples 6-8 mm.
Device technology
Using a batten and self-tapping screws, we decorate the outer edge of the window opening.
To fasten the slats, a hammer drill, wooden or plastic “chops” are used;
We install a starting bar along the edges of the plastic window;
We install the F-shaped strip along the edge of the wooden slats. We fasten it with staples;
We cut out plastic sheets and insert them between the U-shaped and F-shaped strips;
You can put insulation under the plastic: mineral wool, penoizol, or fill it with foam.
Slopes and window sills protect openings from destruction and close cracks. Moisture and cold do not seep through. The room maintains an optimal microclimate. Slopes made of PVC panels give the windows a complete aesthetic appearance. They reflect the rays, increasing the illumination of the room. The surface repels dust and is easy to clean.
Polyvinyl chloride does not emit harmful substances. It is created from natural and safe ingredients. Framing the window with PVC panels looks harmonious, since it is covered with the same material metallic profile window frame. You can install slopes and decorate them with platbands yourself.
Slopes made of PVC panels give the windows a complete aesthetic appearance
Do-it-yourself slope installation
The main advantage of PVC panels is their ease of installation. They are easily cut using a circular saw and a grinder. If there is no equipment, they can be cut assembly knife. Therefore, you can make slopes for windows made of PVC panels with your own hands. This will significantly reduce the cost of finishing windows.
The main advantage of PVC panels is their ease of installation
Installation without experience can be completed in one day, except for the preparation of plaster for soft plastic:
- Seal all cracks left after installing the window. Foam the gaps. Cover the outside of the foam with a special solution that protects it from destruction by UV rays.
- Prepare a place for a PVC window sill. There should be a gap of 5 - 7 mm per meter of length on the sides for thermal expansion. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower end of the opening near the frame and are leveled. They must ensure that the plate fits tightly between the bottom of the frame and the heads. Stops made of slats are installed on the sides and along the plane.
- The free space under the frame is filled with foam. The window sill fits tightly into the groove. The voids between the stops foam. The angle of inclination into the room can be adjusted up to three degrees.
- Prepare side surfaces. Screw around the perimeter from the outside wooden planks. Since the window frame is leveled, you can check it against it. The angle of dawn is within 10% of the width - the size is not regulated, you can change it to your taste.
DIY plastic slopes
- In internal corners The starting profile is screwed on. PVC panels will be inserted into it.
- The dimensions are checked and the top crossbar is cut. The protrusion at the end is cut off. The PVC panel is inserted into the starting profile, foamed around the perimeter, and jumpers are made. Using adhesive tape, it is attached to the bar and set straight.
- The side panels are placed after the top. The installation procedure is the same.
- If the F-profile serves as the platband, then it is attached immediately. Decorative strips are installed after removing the tape.
- Trim the trim at the corners. Seal all gaps between the PVC panels and the profile with sealant.
Attention! PVC slopes are installed in one step and cannot be removed. The dimensions must be adjusted immediately.
Types of PVC panels for window slopes
There are three main types of window panels:
- sandwich;
- porous plastic;
- wall
Sandwich panels for slopes are made entirely of PVC. External surfaces are durable and hard. Soft insulation inside. Their thickness is 8 mm. The kit includes a starter and F-profile for installation. For finishing with a platband they can have a decorative strip. Width from 250 to 500 mm. Length, depending on manufacturer and modification, up to 6 meters. There is an installation groove or cable channel on the side.
Sandwich panels for slopes are made entirely of PVC
Plastic for slopes is thin and requires perfect surface leveling. Used as a finishing after plastering. It is glued to a dry surface with special glue. A budget-friendly and simple option for those who want to improve the appearance of their windows with their own hands.
Wall panels are rigid. They have a corrugated surface on the back. Longitudinal recesses compensate for the thermal expansion of the material and increase rigidity. Installing them is more difficult than with PVC sandwich panels. If you have no experience in installing slopes and platbands, then do not risk doing it yourself. Use the services of specialized teams.
Plastic for slopes is thin and requires perfect surface leveling
Window slopes and window sills, insulation of opening walls
In addition to their decorative appearance, slopes and window sills are installed for insulation. The platbands cover the gaps formed during the installation of the window. All cracks must be carefully sealed with your own hands. Otherwise, dew will form. Moisture will destroy the material of the opening, and the cold will penetrate into the house.
The outside of the foam must be puttied with a special solution and painted over. It is destroyed when exposed to sunlight.
When making slopes with your own hands, pay attention to the space under the window sill. After the foam has dried, cut off the excess. Seal all cracks with putty. Before facing with platband, level the surface of the walls around the opening. Then the decorative strip will lie flat and tight.
Installation of plastic slopes
Plastered slopes - a budget option
The most affordable and a budget option make slopes, this is plaster. First, clean and deepen the joints between the bricks. Apply the solution in several layers. You can use a ready-made dry mixture or make it yourself. In addition to cement and sand, it is advisable to add gypsum. It gives the surface smoothness, but hardens faster.
Install strips or perforated profiles in the corners. This will ensure strength and linear evenness. Last layer done with finishing putty. Everything is checked using a ruler. Irregularities are smoothed out. After that primer and paint.
Plastered slopes require constant attention and regular, after 3 years, coating with a new layer of paint.
The most affordable and budget option for making slopes is plaster
PVC door slopes
Interior door openings can be finished with PVC panels. They are selected according to the color of the canvas. Mostly used are more rigid Wall panels. The installation procedure is the same. Only fastening is done using dowels through PVC into the wall with hardened self-tapping screws. Hats are masked with special mastic.
Interior door openings can be finished with PVC panels
The sealant is matched to the color of the plastic panels. The platband is a decorative strip, which is additionally attached to the wall with glue and sealed around the outer perimeter with putty so that there is no gap.
Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.
The design of PVC windows after their installation includes finishing of the slopes. After completion of this work, the corners are drawn up decorative corners or install internal slopes on windows.
Why do you need window treatments?
The interior decoration of plastic windows has not only a decorative function, but also a protective one. The installation seam must be reliably protected from the influences exerted on it so that window system In general, it functioned correctly: the glass did not fog up or freeze, and condensation did not accumulate on the slopes.
The installation seam on the outside must also be reliably protected from exposure atmospheric precipitation, wind and sunlight, under the influence of which polystyrene foam is destroyed. You can effectively protect it by installing metal slopes and trims on plastic windows for exterior finishing, which will give the window a neat, finished look.
For interior decoration material used for the window opening in the house different types. This could be decorative plaster, do-it-yourself installation of PVC panels or drywall on the slopes of plastic windows. The finish looks impressive internal slopes decorative artificial stone. To understand which of these methods is better, it is worth considering each of them separately.
Decorative plaster
When carrying out renovations in a house, interior decorative plaster is often used as a finishing material for walls. This material will make the slopes on the windows unusual and spectacular.
Decorative plaster is often used for interior decoration of slopes Decorative plaster may contain fillers of various fractions and origins - these can be natural wood fibers or stone chips or artificial granules of various sizes. Decorative plaster is used as a finishing layer, creating an unusual textured surface or an intricate pattern, like Venetian plaster.
As a material for interior finishing of slopes, decorative plaster has the following characteristics:
- effectively masks base unevenness;
- it can be applied to any base material: brick, concrete, plasterboard, wood;
- this material does not absorb odors;
- safe, non-flammable and environmentally friendly composite;
- has soundproofing qualities;
- in case of minor defects in the base, preliminary repairs are not required;
- when treated with wax or painting, the plaster layer becomes moisture-repellent;
- has breathability;
- Repairing the plaster layer is very simple, there is no need to remove all the finishing;
finishing of arched window structures is possible.
Types of decorative plasters
Depending on the type of filler and main substance, decorative plasters are:
Surface preparation
The durability of the plaster layer depends on a well-prepared surface.. Therefore, finishing window slopes inside with decorative plaster should begin with preparing the base.
Drywall slopes
Finishing slopes with plasterboard is quick and does not require special construction skills. Installation is possible using polyurethane foam or putty as an adhesive or on metal carcass . Drywall for windows must be marked GKLV.
Drywall on slopes can be mounted on a metal frame It is characterized by the following positive qualities:
- environmental friendliness;
- affordable price;
- simple installation;
- decorative effect when finishing with any materials;
- smooth, durable surface;
- durability;
- possibility of designing arched openings.
Preparatory work
Surface preparation consists of the following steps:
Using polyurethane foam, you can finish a window opening without having any construction skills. It is important to remember that drywall is fragile material, so cut it out necessary details it must be done carefully, without any effort.
To get smooth edges at the cut points, you need to follow the drawn line on a sheet of drywall, applying a ruler, using a sharp construction knife make the cut. You need to cut the top paper layer and a little inside. Then you can lightly tap along the cut - the drywall will break itself along the intended line.
Foam mounting
Finishing slopes with plastic panels
Finishing of window slopes inside can be done using plastic ceiling panels or multi-layer sandwich panels. The installation of this material is so simple that it is possible to finish the inside of plastic windows with your own hands. How to make slopes for plastic windows in a house will be described below.
PVC panels are most often used to finish slopes from the inside. Sandwich panels are better than ceiling panels due to the presence of a layer of insulation inside. However, ceiling ones also have thermal insulation properties due to air chambers between the internal stiffeners.
Installation and repair of slopes inside a building using these finishing materials is possible due to their qualities:
- PVC slopes are durable;
- the use of panels for finishing window slopes gives them an attractive, neat appearance;
- finishing options can be very diverse thanks to a wide range of colors,
- which have external surfaces of panels;
- it is possible to install plastic on arched structures;
- Repairing plastic slopes is not difficult;
- ease of installation - window openings are finished with your own hands, and installation does not take much time;
- PVC is easy to process;
- slopes lined with plastic on the inside are easy to maintain;
- finishing window openings this material increases the energy efficiency of the window system;
- The interior decoration of windows prevents them from fogging and freezing.
Installation
How to install internal slopes for windows made of PVC panels is shown below.
- remove excess polyurethane foam using a stationery or construction knife;
To remove residual foam, use a stationery or construction knife - We fix it along the perimeter of the window opening near the frame using self-tapping screws wooden block;
Secure a wooden block around the perimeter of the frame - We attach the starting profile to the block;
The starting profile is attached to the block - We install a strip along the outer perimeter of the window;
The rail is fixed along the outer perimeter of the frame - It’s better to insert the side elements first;
Side panels installed first - then insert the top panel, bend it, foam it a little and fix it in the required position;
Between the upper slope and PVC panel blow out a small layer of foam - fix the side parts in the same way;
- after the structure has dried, the corner parts are finished decorative elements- corners or platbands.
Corners are covered with platbands
Sandwich panels can be installed in the same way or without a starting profile. In this case, the panel is placed in a groove cut in the mounting foam. This installation method is relevant when it is not possible to place the block around the perimeter of the window frame.
Platbands
Platbands or casing for internal slopes for PVC windows can be executed from different materials, but her functional purpose one thing - protecting the installation seam from destruction and giving the window opening an aesthetic appearance.
Types of platbands
Platbands differ from each other appearance and functionality:
| Flat platbands. This is the easiest and most inexpensive type of cash withdrawal. | |
| Profiled platbands have a convex surface of different profiles aimed at strengthening decorative function cashing out. | |
| Shaped platbands can have a complex relief and imitate natural wood. | |
| Carved platband is the most expensive type of cash, made to order according to individual sizes. |
Materials for production
The most common material for making cash is sheet plastic. It is used for the manufacture of budget flat platbands, which can be used for finishing windows indoors and outdoors.
This material is not afraid of temperature changes, exposure to moisture or sunlight. Its surface can be laminated and acquire any color or imitate various breeds natural wood. Therefore, choosing cash to match the color of the window facade will not be difficult.
Plastic cash can be made to match any façade Plastic platbands are not prone to deformation due to temperature changes and exposure to moisture.
Profiled PVC trims have the same properties, but may have a shaped surface. They are also used for interior and exterior window decoration.
MDF trim can also be flat or profiled, but they are used exclusively indoors, since the properties of MDF do not allow their use on outdoors under the influence of surrounding natural phenomena.
For external use, dense foam casing can be used. This material is easy to process and install. You can cut out the most intricate and intricate designs from polystyrene foam. complex shapes. It can be decorated with any finishing materials. It has negligible weight, so it does not put any load on the wall.
For exterior finishing windows can use foam trim The most expensive window design option is the installation of wooden carved cash. Carving can be done by hand or mechanized way. Handmade is very expensive due to its individuality and exclusivity.
Profiled and shaped frames made of natural wood, made on a machine, will cost less.
Behind wooden platbands careful care is required, since wood, when used in conditions of exposure to the external environment, has some disadvantages:
- wood can become deformed when absorbing moisture or crack as a result of drying out;
- Such cashing looks harmonious on wooden windows or on timber facades. On modern facades such cashing will look ridiculous.
Fastening
Most often, when installing platbands on a plastic window, they use mounting elements, which are fixed to a frame or wall.
Platband installation diagram The use of removable trims, which are attached to special latches, allows for quick and high-quality installation.
After installing plastic windows, the window opening looks far from in the best possible way: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster stick out, wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closing different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic with polypropylene foam between them). They are dense, durable, made of good material.
There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given with step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to attach slopes to plastic windows. Both methods give good results.
Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles
This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a starting profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually from the hinge side - completely impossible.
After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.
The installation of slopes for plastic windows begins with preparing the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a stationery knife. It is easy to cut, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold up well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - the foam will slide less.
Then, around the perimeter of the window we nail (we place it on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side facing the slope.
Usually they don’t level it, they nail it as is, but if you want, you can set it evenly by placing it in in the right places pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc.
Now you need to cut the plastic panels correctly. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, crimp, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.
It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having done paper stencil, we outline it on plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut it off than to cover it up later.
We cut it with a hacksaw and a metal blade, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up straight, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even; where necessary, we trim it with a file.
Having removed the tried-on and adjusted strip, along the outer edge that will be nailed to the plank, we drill holes according to the thickness of the nails, retreating about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to attach and will not damage the plastic.
We put it in place again, take a balloon with mounting foam and short “sprays” to fill the gap with foam. We try to get as deep as possible, but don’t pour too much: when it swells, it can distort the plastic.
There are several points to consider when working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not have a very good grip on it. To improve it, either treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and/or prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it should be swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.
Then we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.
Using the same technology - cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge smooth it is easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a smooth block, a file or a sharpening stone (half a circle, as in the photo).
We adjust it until it matches perfectly (as best as possible) at the top and bottom, and install it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge to the same level as the wall plaster. You can do this with a stationery knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.
Having removed it, we also drill holes for nails along the outer edge. We install the panel in place, take foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam is not good here either, as it can bend the plastic. Therefore, we fill it in short portions, trying to fill it as deeply as possible.
On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: apply foam to the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which goes under the frame, before installation. The strip is made continuous or applied as a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, and the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to wet the wall before installation). Once filled, press, level, and secure with nails into the bar.
To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during the polymerization process, tape the joint at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard you try to adjust the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small ones, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in foam-type tubes and placed in the same mounting gun.
Squeeze the strip into the gap, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wiped carefully - completely clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from the top - immediately - the horizontal panel of the slope, then the joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to be sealed are the joints with the window sill.
After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be pulled into the seam - this is if the cracks are large. Go through all these places a second time using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are any roughness or unevenness, they can be smoothed out with fine-grain sandpaper, folded in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is still wet, otherwise you may scratch the plastic.
That's it, the plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveling with the surface of the walls. After this, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.
When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed propylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are pressed through quite easily, to same thing If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then the jumpers are visible in the light. This is not the case with sandwich panels and plastic window sills. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and there are no jumpers even for clearance.
Photo report 2: installing plastic slopes with a starting profile
The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.
A wooden block is attached along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face equal to angle slope installation. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless you have a circular saw with an adjustable angle.
We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.
You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.
When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. Another point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.
At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.
Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.
The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.
The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.
We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner - draw from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little. Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.
Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press it, moving your hand along it, hold it for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.
After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.
If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.
Video
For an option for installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame, see this video.
Video version of installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.
And another way in this video. Here pay attention to the finishing of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.
