Gardener 24
Many beginning gardeners are interested in the question: how to grow grapes from cuttings?
Growing grapes from cuttings is the simplest, least expensive and effective way. You can also propagate grapes by seeds, grafting and layering. When breeding new varieties, sowing with seeds is used. Usually, out of one thousand seedlings, approximately 1-2 are of interest, all the rest turn out to be worse than the original. Therefore, grapes are best propagated by cuttings.
How to prepare grape cuttings in the fall
Most grape cuttings are harvested in the fall, from healthy bushes that grow on your territory. The thickness of the vine should be 7-10 mm, length 55-60 cm, 4-5 buds. The lower cut should be at an angle, and the upper cut 2 centimeters above the eye. Cuttings of cuttings should be dipped in paraffin or wax, tied with twine and soaked in water for two days. To prevent the cuttings from drying out, put them in plastic bags and put them in the refrigerator. The cuttings are also stored in the cellar, in damp sand. The temperature where the cuttings are stored should be in the range from 0 to +5°C.
The end of February, the beginning of March is the time when you need to start growing grape seedlings from cuttings. Remove the cuttings from the place where they were stored.
Now the cuttings need to be divided into 2-3-eye ones. At the top, the cut should be one or two centimeters above the eye, and at the bottom, obliquely, only 1 cm below the eye. The cuts that are located below need to be cleaned sharp knife. Then disinfect the cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate for 5 hours at room temperature. Afterwards, the cuttings need to be soaked in well-settled water, it is better if it is melt water, but it should be room temperature. They need to be soaked for 2-3 days, immersed 2/3 in water.
At the next stage, it is better to treat the cuttings with a growth stimulator, placing them in the solution with the lower eye for a day. The next stage is furrowing. When you remove the cuttings from the growth stimulator, make 2 cm long scratches above the lower eye with a fork or a nail. This technique will cause cell activity at the site of the furrow and will stimulate the rapid formation of roots. Let's now make a kilchivator. We will need pine sawdust, scalded with boiling water and cooled. Then cut off the top of a 2-liter plastic bottle and make small holes at the bottom for water drainage. This container will fit 5-6 cuttings. Pour 3-4 cm of sawdust into the prepared container, place the prepared cuttings vertically and fill with sawdust up to the top eye. Important point for growing cuttings, the room where they will grow. It is better to place them near a heating radiator, where the temperature is 22-25 ° C, and there is cool air above. Cuttings need to be watered every 2-3 days and sprayed daily warm water. With this regime, callus forms on the cuttings in the place where the scratches are made and root rudiments appear.
After 25-30 days, the upper bud awakens and the shoot begins to grow, and roots form below. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into any suitable container. Good for this paper bags from kefir, or plastic bottles. The cuttings are planted in a nutrient mixture consisting of 1 part garden soil, 2 parts sand and 1 part humus.
Cuttings – convenient way creating a rich vineyard. To achieve results, you need to learn how to propagate grapes from cuttings in the fall, understand the features of harvesting (storing) planting material, and also know the rules for rooting cuttings and caring for grapes planted in the fall.
Grapes are taken from cuttings in spring or autumn. Autumn propagation of the crop by cuttings is considered optimal, since it is harvested before the onset of frost. planting material resistant to wind, frost, lack of sun.
Propagation of grapes by cuttings in the fall is suitable for gardeners living in southern regions where there are no severe frosty winters.
Planting material is harvested during grape pruning. The gardener chooses healthy, fruit-bearing plants that are at least three years old. The selected vine is inspected to ensure that it is not affected by diseases.
The gardener waits for the leaves to fall, and after 2 weeks (not earlier) starts pruning. Cuttings are selected for the following characteristics:
- the diameter does not exceed 6 millimeters, otherwise the shank will not take root;
- taken from a fruit-bearing bush over three years old;
- the planting material is hard and produces a cracking sound when bent;
- the vine is a uniform brown color;
- the cut of the chibouk has a uniform green color, and dark inclusions signal a disease of the crop;
- shrub bark without cracking, hard growths and other defects of roots and leaves.
When cutting cuttings with a sharp knife, you need to try to ensure that the length of each specimen exceeds 30 centimeters. The chibouks should be cut off carefully, trying not to damage the bark.
You need to harvest cuttings for future use, because even if all the rules for storing and growing the root system are followed, up to 50% of the harvested planting material will not take root or will dry out.
Preparing cuttings for further planting
Each cutting is cleaned of remnants of leaves and tendrils. Chubuki are sorted by grade in several pieces. Before planting in the soil, the cuttings are placed in a container of water so that the liquid covers 4 centimeters of each stem. Containers with planting material are placed in a room where room temperature is maintained.
If planting grapes is planned after a few days, then the planting material is carefully wrapped in a damp cloth. When storing grape cuttings, it is important to create conditions under which the planting material does not lose moisture.
A cutting that loses about 20% of water is unsuitable for use. It will not be possible to restore planting material if there is a significant loss of moisture, even with prolonged soaking. To avoid damage to the planting material, it must be prepared for storage after collection, without wasting time, since in 1 day the cutting loses 2% of water.
Storing cuttings
There are other methods for storing cuttings, and they do not depend on the season they are planted in the soil.
How to store chibuki:
- Cellar: choose a container in which you can freely put the cuttings. Then the planting material is added dropwise with moistened sand. In this state, the chibuki can be stored for several weeks.
- Garden - choose a site on a hill, located away from sources groundwater. Coarse sand is poured into the bottom of the trench in a layer of at least 10 centimeters. The cuttings are laid on it, covering them with a forty-centimeter layer of soil. This method is more suitable if planting material is stored until spring.
- Refrigerator door - before placing the cuttings in the refrigerator, they need to be soaked in water for two days. cold water and then wrap it in plastic.
As soon as roots 2-5 centimeters long appear at the ends of each cutting, they can be planted in the soil. In order for planting cuttings in the fall to bring the desired results, you need to:
- take care of the quality of the soil;
- choose the right site for the future vineyard;
- dig trenches correctly.
After planting grapes, the gardener needs to take care of protecting future plants from frosts that come in winter.
Selection of soil and site
The choice of soil and site for planting cuttings in the fall is taken care of at the end of summer, before collecting planting material. Grapes are a plant that requires fertile soil of moderate humidity. Thus, table grape varieties need a sufficient amount of humus. Soil rich in humus is found at the foot of the hills and near groundwater sources (they should lie at a depth of three meters).
Rocky, sandy soil and black soil is a suitable substrate for growing a vineyard. If the soil on the site is viscous and heavy, then its composition can be normalized. To do this, take sand, silt, rotted manure and brick chips, after which the mixture is added to the soil. If the soil is salty, water it generously a few weeks before planting the grapes.
Choosing the right site is a mandatory step autumn planting grapes To prevent infection of a young vine with bacterial canker, cuttings should not be planted on the site of an old uprooted vineyard affected by this disease. After harvesting infected plants, at least 3 years must pass.
Poorly ventilated areas, tree rows, and depressions in which the cold stagnates are not suitable for growing grapes in the fall. The plant grows well in well-ventilated elephants located on the south side of the site. Grapes should not be planted near plants that require frequent watering, since excessive soil moisture can cause rotting of the root system.
If a gardener plants both frost-resistant and heat-loving varieties, then each is given a separate plot, since heat-loving grapes will need insulation with the onset of frost.
Planting crops in autumn in stages
Planting a future vineyard in the fall open area– a simpler procedure when compared with spring planting. After preparing the cuttings, you need to make an oblique cut at the end of each of them.
First, the gardener prepares trenches. Their depth should be 30 centimeters, width - also 30 centimeters, but no more. Apply a layer of humus evenly to the bottom of the trench - 1 bucket of fertilizer per 1 meter of trench. Each chubuk is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, but so that a few eyes remain above the surface. A distance of 20 centimeters is maintained between cuttings. If another trench is needed, then it is dug 40 centimeters from the previous one.
You can plant cuttings in holes. Holes 50 centimeters deep are made in pre-fertilized soil. Each cutting is placed in the hole at an angle of 45 degrees, but so that several eyes remain above the surface of the ground. If the chubuk is planted at an angle, then the length of its roots should not exceed 10 centimeters.
Each chibouk is buried with a substrate and the soil is compacted. Then the future grapes are watered. When the soil absorbs moisture, the cuttings can be earthed up. Before frost occurs, cuttings should be watered regularly.
Insulation
Grapes planted in autumn need to be insulated, otherwise they will die at the first frost. There are two ways to protect chibouks from frost and wind - with straw or a structure resembling a greenhouse.
To insulate the cuttings with straw at the end of autumn, you need to dig the root zone with soil so that the height of the embankments is 40 centimeters. They are then covered with burlap and several layers of straw (leaves). In spring, the natural insulation is removed.
Insulating grapes with a greenhouse is a more labor-intensive process that requires film, metal rods and wire. The gardener builds an arch 50 centimeters high over the cuttings, after which he covers it with film. The seedlings remain in the improvised greenhouse until the frost passes. In early spring at above-zero temperatures, the greenhouse is opened periodically to provide access to air.
You can also insulate cuttings plastic bottles no neck. Each cutting is covered with a prepared container, then the soil around the bottle is watered generously, using 2-3 buckets of water. The soil around the bottle is loosened and covered with plenty of straw or pine needles. In this state, grapes planted in autumn are stored until spring.
Rules of care
Despite simple diagram, the method of planting grapes in the fall has a significant drawback: by spring, up to 60% of the seedlings survive. Therefore, 2 cuttings are planted in one hole at the same time. If both plants are accepted, then in the spring they leave a strong specimen of grapes, removing the weak one from the soil, since it can interfere with the growth of a full-fledged plant.
Established plants are regularly watered and fed. Young grapes are regularly checked for signs typical diseases cultures - bacterial cancer, mildew, gray rot, apoplexy and others.
So that the grapes have a powerful root system To ensure active growth and fruiting, in summer the cuttings need to be deepened 20 centimeters into the soil. To do this, the seedling is dug up and several root shoots are removed, after which the plant is replanted in the ground.
Grapes bear fruit in the third or fourth year after planting in the ground, if the gardener regularly waters the plants, removes weeds in a timely manner and applies fertilizers to the soil and mulches it (puts dry manure on the surface of the soil). Fruiting in the first year weakens the crop, so the gardener must cut off the first ripening clusters of the plant, preventing the berries from ripening in the first year.
Growing grapes with chibouks in the fall according to the rules increases the likelihood of obtaining full-fledged seedlings for growing a fruit-bearing vineyard.
It is only for the benefit of grapes to grow them from cuttings in the spring. After all, this is the most opportune moment for propagating planting material in order to obtain required quantity and quality of seedlings. About when is the right time to start germinating cuttings? in various ways germination, as well as about planting cuttings in pots at home and about planting directly in a greenhouse or in open ground, will be discussed in our article.
Note! The site already has a number of detailed review articles about the most popular and the best varieties grapes:
When to start germinating grape cuttings
It is difficult to name a specific date when you can take out and begin to germinate grape cuttings, because there are several very important factors, on which your specific deadlines will depend, namely:
- how long will germination take?
Note! If you can maintain optimal temperature conditions for germination, the cuttings will be ready for planting much earlier than if they germinate under less suitable conditions.
- depending on the method of germination (if with staking, then it can be planted earlier; if without staking, then 5-7 days later);
- when the warm season begins in your region (the earth warms up sufficiently, at least up to +10 degrees);
- where will you plant (if at your place) personal plot, i.e. you live in a private house, then you can do it earlier; if at the dacha, where you visit 1-2 times a week, then later).
The fact is that in the event of returning spring frosts, you must react quickly and cover the seedlings, and this cannot always be done if your country cottage area is far from home.
As a result, from the moment of germination of cuttings to the planting of already vegetating grape seedlings, on average It takes about 2.5 months (70-80 days).
So if you live:
- in the south of Russia, That take cuttings for germination from the storage you can late January-early February to start plant young seedlings in open ground , already starting from mid to late April.
- V Middle lane(Moscow region) cuttings should be taken out for germination much later, somewhere late February-early March, to plant in the ground in the second half to end of May.
Video: when to start germinating grape cuttings
Is it possible to take grape cuttings in the spring?
Many novice gardeners ask the question: “Is it possible to take grape cuttings in the spring?”
Of course, it is possible, but doing so will be relatively problematic:
Therefore, grapes are cut from autumn.
By the way! About, how to properly cut grapes in the fall, read in. In general, in the spring the procedure is carried out similarly.
How to prepare grape cuttings for spring planting
Video: planting a vegetative seedling in open ground
Video: planting vegetative grape seedlings in the ground (according to Puzenko)
Features of caring for planted grape cuttings in open ground
Naturally, in the first year the young seedling should be carefully monitored and cared for.
After planting, it is advisable to at least slightly shade the bush for the first 10-15 days, even if it is hardened, since the active sun will still burn out the chlorophyll and the leaves will wither.
In case of unexpected return frosts - slight drop in temperature (to zero) you should cover the seedlings with spunbond. And if severe frosts are expected(up to -3..-5 degrees), then the shelter should be made even more thorough. oidium
Video: how to root a grape cutting - growing grape seedlings from chibouks
An exact repetition of the properties of the mother plant is obtained by the method vegetative propagation- daughter seedlings have the same genetic set. This means that in 2 years the second generation of the vine will bring a harvest of berries whose taste you like so much. It is enough to root the cuttings.
The good thing about this method is that it does not require special expenses for purchasing planting material. During autumn pruning 90% of the vines are removed from the bush. Material for cuttings can easily be obtained as a gift from a neighbor in the country or purchased inexpensively from breeders.
Lignified cuttings for vegetative propagation of grapes are cut after the leaves fall from the bush even before the onset of frost. By this time, the buds and tissues of the vine are already fully formed. During the summer, a supply of nutrients (carbohydrates) is deposited - such cuttings take root easily and grow quickly.
Fattening vines that are too thin, with signs of damage by diseases or pests, or with immature wood are unsuitable for cuttings. The upper and lower 1/3 of the vine are not used for vegetative propagation - only the middle part of the shoot with normally developed buds.
Microelements useful for forcing and rooting are concentrated in the maximum concentration for the plant in the central part of the vine.
To prepare chibouks at home, vine segments with 3-4 nodes are cut with sharp pruning shears.
- The rule “the lower cut is straight, the upper cut is oblique” surprises the uninitiated. This is just a simple way to make a mark so that you can later distinguish where the cutting is top and where it is bottom. A chibouk tree planted upside down will not take root.
- Shoots that are deformed and show signs of various damage are not suitable for propagation.
- The thickness in the area of internodes should be at least 8 mm, the length of internodes should be no more than 15-18 cm.
Experienced winegrowers believe that the best chubuks are obtained from shoots on young wood (up to 2 years old).
Before storing, the vines should be disinfected with a 1-2% solution of copper or iron sulfate. Chibouks are protected from moisture loss by covering the sections with paraffin or a special film. Alternatively, vine sections are stored in slightly damp sand.
At a temperature of 3-6 °C, metabolic processes in the cuttings freeze - in a state of biological dormancy without access to light, it retains the ability to germinate until spring. 
Preparing cuttings for rooting
In February, cuttings are taken out for germination. The first step is to check the safety of the vine: make a cross section and look at the condition of the wood.
- When cut from a quality cutting, the green layer of cambium under the bark should be clearly visible.
- When you press on the cutting, moisture should appear at the cut - a sign of preserved plant juices.
- They check the cut and buds; if the contents inside are darkened, the vine is unsuitable for cutting cuttings.
The vines suitable for germination are cut into 2-3 eye segments. It’s great if the lowest node has a tendril - this means that there is a special membrane that preserves the vine juices from drying out in winter. Such cuttings take root faster.
The upper cut is made 2-3 cm above the eye, the lower cut is made under the eye itself, at a distance of 0.5 cm.
Sliced chibouks are soaked in running water. Very good for soaking melt water with the addition of synthetic root formation stimulants (Heteroauxin, Kornevin) or natural (aloe juice or honey diluted - 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water).
After soaking, furrowing is carried out: shallow cuts are made on the bark - a scratch of 0.5 mm is enough to the green cambium, only 3-4 cuts 2-3 cm long at the lower eye.
There is no consensus on the need for waxing - on cuts, when dry, the capillaries themselves narrow and do not allow the cutting to dry out. In any case, melted paraffin will “clog” the cutting faster. If paraffin is not available, the cut can be sealed with modeling clay.
Now the cutting is completely prepared for rooting. 
Germinating grape cuttings in a jar of water
To grow a dozen seedlings in a city apartment, there is a simple, proven method - in an ordinary glass jar.
- Place a layer of cotton wool (about 2 cm) at the bottom of the jar (the volume does not matter) and pour the same layer boiled water(2 cm). It is advisable to add a few crystals of potassium permanganate and a couple of tablets to the water. activated carbon for disinfection.
- Place the cuttings in a jar and place the jar itself on the windowsill. It is advisable to mark the water level with a marker so that you have something to compare with.
Further care involves monitoring the water level. If desired, you can put it on top of the jar plastic bag so that the water evaporates more slowly. You will get an impromptu mini-greenhouse.
The buds bloom first, the buds of roots at the site of scratches (furrows) appear 2 weeks later (sometimes even longer - it all depends on the quality of the vine).
Growing and cultivating cuttings
It happens that a second green shoot begins to sprout from the upper eye, but the roots have not yet formed. It is necessary to break off the first strong shoot so that it does not draw juices from the cutting. The supply of nutrients for 2 shoots and roots may simply not be enough.
It is imperative to pinch off the rudiment of the inflorescence - you definitely won’t need it. There is no need to be afraid that the bush will grow weak - the replacement shoot is not inferior in strength to the zero one.
Kilchers are used to germinate a large number of vines. The device is a chamber with bottom heating. It turns out that the “legs” of the germinated cuttings are warm, and the “head” is cold. With such a temperature difference, roots form faster, and green shoots are in no hurry to grow.
The video shows how you can trim grape cuttings before planting for further germination.
Planting sprouted chibouks in pots, glasses or boxes
When root primordia of 1-5 mm appear on the cuttings, it is time to plant the vines in a solid substrate.
With the best of intentions, inexperienced summer residents make a common mistake: they use too nutritious soil to produce seedlings and germinate cuttings.
It should be the other way around: in search of “food”, the roots grow rapidly due to internal reserves.
The following substrate is quite suitable for rooting:
- 1 part compost;
- 1 part of ordinary soil (preferably from the place where the seedling will grow);
- 2 parts sand.
For root formation you can add a little wood ash- it contains many useful microelements.
For rooting chubuks, it is better to use separate containers in order to subsequently transfer the seedlings to permanent place non-traumatic method - with a clod of earth. 
It is best to use peat pots - the seedling is sent to the vineyard along with a peat container, which will quickly soak in the ground and serve as fertilizer. To germinate grape cuttings, you need to take a container with a volume of 1.0-1.5 liters.
The container (if it is not peat pots) should be disinfected before planting the chibouks - doused with boiling water or rinsed with a solution of potassium permanganate.
- The dishes are filled 1/3 with substrate.
- Carefully install the cutting, add soil to half the container.
- Water well to allow the soil to settle.
- Fill the container with soil to the remaining height (1 cm below the rim).
- All pots can be placed in a box and covered with film - you will get a greenhouse for seedlings.
Practice shows that the seedling is ready to be “relocated” to a permanent place when the green shoot reaches a length of 12-15 cm. By this time the roots will have grown 5-7 cm. It is impossible to notice this in ordinary dishes. Usage peat pots allows you to see that at some point the roots will begin to break through the walls of the dish.
Rooting chibouks in soil or sawdust
In a large planting box (or greenhouse), chibouks with root rudiments are planted according to the same principle:
- install carefully;
- covered with filler;
- watered;
- fill to the top.
The distance between the stems must be at least 10 cm, otherwise they will become entangled with roots and it will be impossible to plant them without damage. 
Proper care of rooted cuttings at home
If the cuttings planted for rooting are covered with a greenhouse made of polyethylene film, seedling care is reduced to a minimum:
- Watering when the substrate dries out. The best option is to place all containers on a tray and carry out bottom watering, which only stimulates root growth. If this is not possible, you should water very moderately - the apparent lack of water can be compensated for by the greenhouse effect of the film cover.
- You should not feed seedlings at the stage of root system growth - the plant will not have an incentive to grow roots.
- If the seedlings are covered with film, regular ventilation is necessary to prevent fungal diseases.
- It goes without saying that the seedlings should grow on a well-lit windowsill or balcony.
- When the green shoot grows to 12-15 cm in length, the seedlings are ready to be transplanted into the ground.
- If the weather does not yet allow planting grapes in a permanent place (temperature no higher than 10-12 degrees), the seedlings can be transferred to a balcony, veranda, or placed in a greenhouse.
Planting grapes in cold soil is dangerous, since the roots grow slowly in the cold - acclimatization in place will be difficult and painful.
Until warm weather sets in, the grape seedlings will grow and get stronger - rooted cuttings can be planted in open ground until mid-June. If the growing container is of sufficient volume (at least 1.0 liters per seedling), the plants will not experience discomfort.
With the arrival of real warmth, it is no longer possible to delay replanting - the seedling must not just grow shoots. The vines must ripen during the summer and set buds next year. The future first harvest depends on them.
Growing grapes is a rather responsible business, since a healthy and highly productive vineyard will depend on the cuttings. To harvest it, choose strong and productive bushes with the variety you like. A grape bush grown in this way adapts better to climatic conditions. To find out how to grow grapes from cuttings, which will ultimately yield good yields, read on.
Features and advantages of growing grapes with chibouks
To grow grapes at home, you must first choose a variety.The first step is to decide for what purpose you plan to grow grapes:
- Technical varieties are suitable for winemaking and juicing,
- Dining rooms suitable for consumption and sale.
Next, you need to decide on the ripening period - early, medium or late varieties. Indicators such as their resistance to frost and fungi are also important. Give preference to a hybrid and complex-resistant variety and select for indicators such as berry size, shape, taste and color.
If you grow grapes for sale, choose varieties with large berries for planting; for your own consumption, choose sweet muscat varieties.
Preparing cuttings for the winter
Planting material must be harvested without damaging the mother bush, the part that produces the harvest. Annual branches that are planned to be cut are suitable for harvesting. You need to use the central or lower part of the vine.
Chubuki harvested in the fall are more productive than those harvested in the spring.
When choosing a vine for harvesting, check it for diseases, pests or damage. She must be fully ripe , and you can check this with iodine - it will color the starch grains in a dark purple hue. Dip the ends of the cuts of the chibouks into a 1% iodine solution. A completely ripe vine will become almost black in color, while an underdeveloped vine will turn pale green. The second sign suitable material There will be a slight cracking sound when bending.
The appropriate length of the cutting will be the one that is 15-20 cm higher than the optimal planting depth in the ground and is 60-70 cm. This length allows you to trim the shrunken cuttings before planting. It is necessary to strictly separate the workpieces by grade, tying them in bundles and signing them. The lower parts are cut diagonally with pruning shears, leaving a stump of 1-2 cm on the vine.
Storing cuttings in winter
For winter storage, prepared bundles of chibouks are wrapped in a damp cloth and covered with moss, sawdust or straw. You can dig them into the ground, form an earthen mound over them and cover them with film. Also, the blanks are stored in a box filled with sand in basement or in the refrigerator, wrapped in film.
Video: Winter storage of grape cuttings in the basement
They also store it this way: cuttings tied in bunches (by variety) are placed in sugar or flour bags, leaving a hole 2-3 cm in diameter at the top so that excess moisture does not accumulate. The bag with the preparations should fog up from the inside, but moisture should not flow along the walls. In this state, the blanks can be stored until mid-spring, and even until May or early summer. But in this case, they are put in the refrigerator so that they do not bloom ahead of time.
To prevent mold from forming, before storing the chibouks for the winter, you need to treat them with a 5% solution of copper or iron sulfate, dipping them in it for 2-3 seconds. This can turn them black.
Some breeders recommend dipping the workpieces in water for 2-3 days and then drying them on newspaper. It would be a good idea to “seal” the sections with paraffin or wax. During storage, check the material for the presence of mold, and if it forms, wipe the branches with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Video: How to preserve grape cuttings until spring
Preparing for rooting and planting
At the end of winter, the material can be prepared for rooting and planting. Carefully inspect each stem for damage, fungus and mold, remove the rejected ones. To check for validity, scrape with your fingernail or knife. upper layer, if the stem underneath is green, then everything is in order, if it is black, the stalk has rotted.
Using sharp pruning shears, freshen the cuts at the top and bottom, making them at an angle. The lower cuts are made immediately below the node, and the upper ones are made 2-3 cm above the eye. Now you can cut the branches so that at least 2-3 eyes remain on each.
Chibouks prepared in this way must be immersed in water with the lower part of 2/3 of their length and covered with a bag. Depending on the moisture they have gained over winter storage, the soaking period will be about 2-3 days.
During the soaking period, the next day, you need to cut off the top with pruning shears; if the cut releases moisture, you can finish the process; if not, change the water and continue the procedure. If after three days droplets of moisture have not appeared at the cut site, the chibouks are not suitable for planting.
Good results can be achieved by adding any of the following to water: root growth stimulants:
- sodium humate,
- Fumar,
- Humisol,
- Heteroauxin,
- Succinic acid, etc.
At the end of soaking, the top along with the bud is paraffinized: dipped in paraffin melted in a water bath, then cooled in water. Chibuki prepared using this method can be planted immediately in the shkolka, even without kilching.
Video: How to root Vynograd cuttings
Kilchevanie
For faster and good growth roots, the bottom of the chibouks needs to be furrowed using stationery knife– make several vertical cuts.
In spring, due to the difference in temperature between the ground and air, the buds begin to develop much earlier than the roots. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to kilch the cuttings, i.e. artificially created temperature in the root part is +20-25 degrees, in the top from 0 to +5 degrees. This procedure can be carried out in different ways.
Planting seedlings in a school and caring for it
A trench is dug to the same depth as a shovel and 20 cm wide. The bottom of the trench is filled with humus at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 meter, then covered back with earth. The cuttings are stuck vertically into the ground for almost their entire length, maintaining a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Only the upper bud 3-5 should remain above 3-5 cm. If the bud and the cut are waxed, then they are left as is, but if not, they form a hill of loose earth.
An arch is made of thick wire over the school at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground, then covered with film. It creates a microclimate, and the earth warms up well. During the day, for ventilation, the film is turned away on the sides, and at night it is lowered again. This continues until the threat of spring frost subsides.
For ease of watering, loosening and removing weeds, a gap of 30-40 cm is left between the beds. The soil should be constantly moistened, but not waterlogged. From mid-summer, watering should be stopped, and in October the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place.
