Finishing and insulation of facades is mandatory process guaranteeing a warm and inviting home. For this purpose they are used different methods, but the most relevant and interesting choice is considered to be the one in which a wet facade is created, the installation technology of which will be discussed in detail. When forming it, special mortars and thermal insulation materials are used. If you understand well how such a facade is created, then the process can be easily done with your own hands.

What is a wet facade system

The most popular materials used for the construction of various structures are brick, concrete or wall blocks. They produce buildings that have good strength, but do not have excellent thermal insulation parameters, so insulation is an indispensable process. For this, wet facade technology would be an excellent solution.

With the help of the work performed, it is ensured not only high-quality insulation, but also decorative design of private houses. All work is carried out exclusively using specialized building solutions. At the end of the process, the walls are plastered, which guarantees their attractive appearance. appearance.

A distinctive feature of the design is its multi-layer nature, with each layer performing a critical function.

The wet facade consists of the following layers:

Construction layer	Functions it performs
Adhesive	Provides reliable fastening of the entire structure
Insulating	Guarantees high-quality insulation of building walls
Reinforcing	Responsible for the high strength and reliability of the wet facade, and also creates the basis for easy and quick creation of the next layer
Decorative	Acts in the form of a plaster coating that protects heat-insulating materials from external influences and provides beautiful view buildings

When using this technology, it does not decrease effective area premises, since all work is carried out outside.

Advantages and disadvantages

The design has positive and negative parameters, which are carefully studied before direct work. The advantages include:

• reasonable cost;
• light weight, allowing you to create a structure for houses built on light foundations;
• the usable area of ​​residential premises does not decrease;
• thanks to the creation of a wet facade, the installation technology of which is clear and simple, not only the thermal insulation parameters of the building are increased, but also the sound insulation is improved;
• its service life exceeds 35 years;
• the appearance of buildings is improved;
• Simple repair work can be easily carried out if necessary.

However, a wet facade has not only advantages, but also the following disadvantages:

• work can only be carried out when installed outdoors optimal conditions, since it is almost impossible to achieve the desired result at temperatures below 5 degrees, but the solution to this problem will be the use of suitable thermal equipment;
• it is important that all layers dry evenly and gradually, so precipitation or sudden changes in humidity can lead to poor-quality insulation;
• so that during the process of hardening the structure does not get dirt on it, constant protection from the wind is provided, which entails additional waste of time and effort.

This technology ensures the formation of high-quality thermal insulation with minimal investment funds. Photos of the design are presented in large quantities on the Internet, so you can be convinced of its attractiveness. All shortcomings are easily removable, so this insulation option is chosen very often.

Wet insulation options

Choosing insulation for the structure

The main purpose of a wet facade is to insulate buildings, so much attention is paid to choosing high-quality insulation. It must meet the following criteria:

• small weight;
• environmental friendliness, since the work is performed for a residential building;
• low water absorption rate;
• good resistance to mechanical stress;
• even with a sharp change in temperature, the material should not change its structure;
• installation must be simple and cost low.

Only some thermal insulation materials meet these requirements. These include:

• polystyrene foam - has a specific structure, which contains a huge number of closed air bubbles. It has low cost and is also easy to install. It has a small mass, so it does not affect the foundation and other parts of the structure. Resistant to mold or mildew growth. Its disadvantages include poor breathability. It is also not durable, so even minor mechanical impacts easily lead to its destruction. It is not advisable to use it for wooden buildings;
• expanded polystyrene is a modern type of polystyrene foam. In the process of creating a wet facade, preference is often given to polystyrene foam. Its structure also contains numerous closed air bubbles, so it has good thermal insulation parameters and does not allow moisture to pass through. It is resistant to fire and has a low mass. The material is considered unsuitable for wooden houses, since it impairs their breathability;
• mineral wool - created using special fibers obtained by melting all kinds of rocks. The material is popular because it contains only natural and environmentally friendly components. Cotton wool is lightweight and affordable. The disadvantages include the lack of resistance to moisture, due to which mineral wool loses its thermal insulation parameters.

Mineral wool is most often chosen for wet facades. It is available in slabs that are easy to attach. To insulate a building using this material you will not need to spend a lot Money.

Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene
Mineral wool

Wet façade installation technology

Making the design is quite simple if you carefully understand the operating technology. Wet facade is formed in several large stages.

Tools and materials for work

Initially, materials and tools used in the work process are purchased. All of them must be of high quality and reasonable price. These include:

• base profile - it should be equal in width to the thickness of the slab of the selected insulation. Its quantity is calculated depending on the size of the building itself. For connection individual elements appropriate profiles are used connecting elements. Its fixation is carried out with different dowel nails, the length of which depends on what material the walls of the building are made of;
• primer - necessary for proper preparation of the walls of the building before creating a wet facade. A primer is also purchased, which is applied to the plaster layer, which ensures its preparation before subsequent decoration;
• mushroom-shaped dowels - used for reliable and final fastening of insulation;
• glue - used in the process of creating a thermal insulation layer, and it must be specifically designed for the selected insulation;
• insulation boards - their required thickness is calculated in advance, since the effectiveness of thermal insulation depends on it. Most often, mineral wool is chosen for a wet facade;
• plaster composition - it provides a protective and reinforced outer layer applied to the thermal insulation;
• reinforcing mesh - the most commonly chosen structure is fiberglass, which is sold in rolls. It is easy to use, and also ensures a durable plaster layer that is resistant to various influences;
• decorative plaster - it guarantees a beautiful and bright appearance of the building facade;
• facade paint - it can be used to paint the walls of a building in any chosen color.

There are special complex systems on the market that include everything necessary materials and tools used in the process of creating a wet façade. Purchasing such a kit is considered beneficial, but quite often some components are unsuitable for home owners.

Tools for wet façade

Preparing the façade before work

It will be possible to achieve a high result of work only if there is a minimum distance between the wall and the heat-insulating layer. Therefore, attention is paid to high-quality preparation of the facade.

Initially, the surfaces are checked for the presence of any unevenness and other defects, which are certainly eliminated with suitable mortars. Since glue is used in the process, it is important to clean the walls from dirt or dust.

Cleaning the surface of façade walls

Old coatings must be removed, and for this purpose mechanical or thermal methods can be used, which involve heating the base construction hairdryer or other equipment. The presence of moss or mold on the walls is not allowed, so if they are found, they must be cleaned off, after which the base is treated with an antiseptic. The areas near each window of the building are especially checked, since this is where the main defects of the walls may be. Also, all elements are removed from the base drainage system or other objects that will interfere with the work process. Next, a primer is applied to the base using a roller and brushes. It is important to avoid omissions, as this will negatively affect the fastening of the insulation.

Primer of walls

Base profile device

To attach it, a zero line is initially drawn on the walls, which is marked exclusively using a laser. It is important that it is perfectly level, since it determines how high-quality, even and reliable the wet façade will be. The line that you will have to focus on when creating a thermal insulation layer should be 30 cm lower than the floor level in the building. This will ensure that there are no cold bridges in the structure.

Base profile

The base profile is required to perform the following functions:

• smooth fastening of the heat-insulating material is guaranteed;
• protection of the mineral wool from below from moisture and dirt is ensured.

If there are slight unevenness on the surfaces, then in the process of fixing the profile, special plastic linings are used to compensate for the curvature of the base, and also allow the structure to be pressed tightly. The fastening is done end-to-end, with a small gap not exceeding 3 mm left between the individual sections. Special connecting elements are used in the corners.

Stages of installation of the base profile

Installation of the thermal insulation layer

For a wet facade, mineral wool is considered an excellent choice. It comes in the form of slabs that are easy to fix. The whole process is divided into stages:

• To attach the insulation, glue is used, which is diluted with the right amount water in accordance with the instructions supplied by the manufacturer. The solution is stirred with a construction mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture of optimal consistency;
• the composition is applied to the insulation boards in two approaches, since initially a small amount of it is rubbed into the elements, and then an even and fairly thick layer is created;
• a plate coated with glue is applied to the desired area walls, after which it is pressed quite firmly and tightly. It is recommended to move it a little to distribute the glue evenly. When working near a window where the slope is located, it is important to ensure careful fixation. If excess appears, it will be immediately removed with a spatula;
• When using the next element, it is important to ensure that all the plates are pressed against each other very tightly. Significant gaps are not allowed;
• The material is fastened in successive rows, and work begins from a pre-selected angle. In this case, the seams are certainly shifted to prevent the formation of cold bridges.

The first row is laid in strict accordance with the pre-fixed starting profile. Mineral wool is cut special knife, and during work it is important to constantly use measuring equipment, to prevent possible deviations and distortions.

The prepared adhesive solution is applied to the insulation boards
The first row of insulation is carefully attached with glue to the base profile
Additional fastening of insulation using dowels

Applying a plaster layer with reinforcement

A wet facade is created without fail with the formation of a special reinforced layer of plaster. The mixture is usually sold in dry form, so it must be diluted with water before use.

Work begins with each window in the building, since these areas are considered the most difficult. As a rule, special corners for slopes are used here. After forming the optimal thickness of the plaster layer, a reinforcing mesh is used, which is embedded in the solution. It should not touch the mineral wool, but should be in the plaster mixture. A special corner equipped with mesh strips is used in the corners.

Reinforcing mesh

The mesh is laid overlapping to obtain a strong reinforcing layer. If necessary, trim excess material.

After the solution has set, another layer of plaster is applied. The second layer is rubbed off, after which you can cover it with a primer, and then paint the resulting structure with high-quality facade plaster or paint.

The reinforcing mesh is attached with an overlap
The mesh is pressed into the plaster layer

Common mistakes when creating a wet facade

The work is not difficult to complete, but often the quality of the result is poor. This is due to the following errors:

• the base was not prepared or a poor-quality primer was used;
• the reinforcing mesh was laid end-to-end, not overlapping;
• the thermal insulation layer does not adhere tightly to the walls of the house;
• plaster with a high vapor permeability was used;
• ebb tides installed incorrectly.

What are the dangers of improper installation of a wet facade?

To avoid these mistakes, it is important to use high-quality materials and strictly follow the instructions. Thus, wet facades, the installation technology of which is described above, are considered an excellent solution for any building. The design has many advantages, does not require investing a lot of money and is easy to create with your own hands. High-quality insulation of the house is ensured, and its appearance is also improved.

Video

We suggest watching a video that will help you understand how to properly make such a facade.

Creating a wet façade is one of the most simple ways facing the front of the building. This option is used quite often, because the work can be done without using complex equipment and availability of professional skills. But the process has certain rules and nuances, taking into account which allows you to obtain a reliable and durable coating.

From the name it is clear that this method involves the use of materials that have a liquid structure. That is, the final cladding is created by applying various types of plaster.

The “wet facade” system includes many layers, so the design resembles a pie. This method has been used for quite a long time, which indicates its effectiveness. Unlike the “dry” version, which involves fixing finishing materials to a base or frame using special holding devices or screws, the wet version has a completely different technology.

The “wet facade” differs from simple facade plaster in the presence of powerful thermal insulation

The peculiarity of this method is the ability to completely level out the appearance of the dew point. This is achieved due to the fact that all elements have a common bond, and the surface is almost completely devoid of joints.

Since the structure being created relates to non-ventilated facades, all work is carried out with the obligatory thorough preparation of the base.

Advantages and disadvantages

System advantages:

1. Decorative. The texture and color of the outer layer depend solely on the design intent. The work is carried out with various types of plaster, which can have a variety of textures and be painted in the desired shade. An excellent result can be achieved by using a stencil that creates an imitation of stone or brick masonry.
2. Availability. All materials used in the work are affordable. Naturally, costs depend on the type of plaster and putty.
3. Light weight. The total mass does not pose a serious load.
4. Additional heat and sound insulation. The multi-level structure reliably protects against noise pollution, and also helps to conserve heat and create a comfortable microclimate.
5. No condensation. It occurs due to the fact that a dew point appears on the internal sections of the walls. In this case, it moves into the insulating layer and excess moisture evaporates without any problems.

With external insulation, the dew point moves into the thermal insulation layer, so condensation is completely absent

Significant shortcomings cannot be ruled out:

• Installation of a wet facade is carried out only under favorable weather conditions. Temperature and humidity indicators largely depend on the specific product.
• If during work they fall out precipitation, then the process stops until the surface dries completely.
• Hot sunny days after all procedures are completed also have a negative impact on quality: top layer When it dries quickly, numerous cracks appear. This reduces the level of security of the object and reduces the service life of the coating.

The correctness of the work is also important; any violations can lead to serious problems in the future.

For city residents, a “wet facade” is, in fact, the only way to insulate a home well and for a long time without losing square meters

System design

The installation of a wet facade does not include complex circuits layout and arrangement of materials. It is important to carry out technological steps accurately and consistently.

System structure:

1. The insulation is attached to the base using an adhesive composition. The fixing solution must have good adhesion and not affect the material. Thermal insulation products are selected to the thickness required for a particular case, taking into account the characteristics of the area. The best are considered modern views: foam plastic and penoplex. Special dowels with a large head are used as the main fastening element.
2. A layer of mortar is laid on top of the thermal insulation. A reinforcing mesh is attached to it and completely covered with the composition.
3. The cladding is plaster, which is applied in the required thickness depending on the selected product.

On a note! The final coating can be paint, which will protect the surface from premature destruction and give it an attractive appearance.

The popularity of the “wet facade” external insulation system is largely due to the affordable cost of basic materials and ease of installation

DIY installation

The technology for installing a wet facade assumes that the installation of insulation and all subsequent layers begins after other activities have been completed. This list includes flooring or partial replacement of roofing and ceilings; protecting the foundation and preparing the base for further actions; installation of all external and internal communications. It is recommended to begin work after the building has settled. Object including interior spaces, must be well dried.

There is an opinion that under a “wet facade” the walls need to be carefully leveled; in fact, differences of up to 20 – 30 mm can be leveled out with installation glue

To achieve a better result, the process is divided into several stages:

1. Preparation.
2. Laying insulation.
3. Creation of a reinforcing layer.
4. Finishing events.

It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of all stages.

Preparation of material and base

Work begins with preparation and acquisition necessary materials and tools:

1. The surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. If there is an old layer, it is completely removed.
2. Much attention is paid to checking the coating for traces of fungus and mold. If there are damaged areas, then the problem is first eliminated.
3. Cracks and crevices are opened and covered with putty.
4. If there is a strong skew of the base, then alignment is performed.
5. The surface is primed.

Initial treatment of the walls with a primer is mandatory, the composition is selected depending on the type of base (wood, brick, concrete, cellular concrete), if it was not possible to find a specialized primer, then you can take a universal one

Further work begins after complete drying.

Laying insulation

Insulation is purchased with a small margin. Fixation occurs as follows:

1. At the selected distance from the ground (this parameter is determined by further work with the base), the starting profile is installed. It is secured through special gaskets to ensure mobility of the structure during thermal expansion. Alternatively, use a suitable metallic profile.
2. Thermal insulation boards are laid on prepared glue. Fixation starts from the first row. The upper parts are positioned offset to avoid the vertical joints matching; to do this, one element is cut in half.
3. After the glue has set, holes are drilled and dowels are installed to secure the insulation.
4. If required, the joints are slightly foamed. Excess foam is cut off.

If the facade is smooth, then it is better to apply the adhesive to the insulation all over with a notched trowel; when facing curved walls, the composition is applied in a thick layer in fragments, as in photo No. 1

The next stage begins after 2-3 days, depending on the type of adhesive composition.

Creating a reinforcement layer

The reinforcing layer is created in the following order:

1. A base plaster mixture or adhesive is prepared.
2. Application is carried out using a spatula. First stacked thin layer, equal in size to the first fiberglass mesh strip.
3. The reinforcing fabric is pressed into the solution and covered with the composition. The joining points of the mesh are overlapped.

Assembly adhesive under fiberglass mesh can be applied to “bare” insulation; if it is decided to use starting plaster, then it is advisable to prime the insulation

The total thickness of this layer should not exceed 5–6 mm. It is necessary to wait for the surface to dry, then cover it with a primer and leave until completely dry.

Finishing work

For this stage, facade plaster is selected. It includes many types with different properties. The main requirement is vapor permeability.

After the starting reinforced layer has hardened, they begin to apply the finishing composition, which can be used as any decorative plaster for facades

The selected finishing mixture is prepared and laid in a small layer using a spatula. The solution is applied sequentially and carefully leveled according to the rule. When working with decorative plasters, the mixture is used according to the recommendations specified by the manufacturer. The final stage may be priming and painting. To achieve the best decorative effect a combination of shades is possible.

Installation of the “wet facade” system is not very difficult, but it requires time and effort.

The wet façade finishing technology makes it possible to minimize the formation of cold bridges, since the facing layer is a uniform, monolithic coating. Cladding the walls of a structure using the wet method allows you to shift the dew point outside the walls of the building, therefore, preventing the accumulation of condensation and increasing the service life of the structure.

Stages of installing a wet facade

Preparatory stage

Preparing the surface for the installation of a wet facade includes cleaning the walls of the building from dirt. If it is intended to finish laying a wet facade on top of the existing finish, then the existing finish must be checked for bearing capacity and adhesive properties, that is, make sure that it will withstand the weight of a wet facade and ensure its reliable adhesion to the surface.

If the building's exterior cladding has severely damaged areas, they will need to be replaced. Existing unevenness is leveled using a rough plaster layer. If the walls are finished with hygroscopic material, then before installing a wet facade they must be carefully primed.

Removing existing plaster from door and door slopes window openings will also increase the adhesion of the wet facade to the outer surface of the building walls.

Installation of the base profile

To attach the heat-insulating layer, as well as to protect it from moisture, a base profile is installed. In addition, the profile strip allows you to evenly distribute the load on the structure from the heat-insulating boards.

Mount the profile as follows:

• The distance from the ground to the base profile should be 40 cm. A 3 mm temperature gap must be left between the base profile and the horizontal frame slats;

• The profile is secured using self-tapping screws and dowels, which are placed every 10-20 cm. If the mass of the heat-insulating layer is significant, then the fastening elements should be placed more often;

• A special corner profile is mounted on the corners of the building.

Laying insulation

As thermal insulation materials used for constructing a wet facade, or are used.

Siste
Insulation of a wet façade requires compliance with certain rules. The insulation is mounted using special adhesive compounds, which should be applied in an even layer along the entire perimeter of the thermal plates, retreating 2.5-3 cm from the edge.

On the empty space of thermal plates adhesive composition applied pointwise. As a result, about 40% of the material should be covered with glue.

Thermal insulation boards are mounted on the walls using a running method, which resembles a device brickwork. Thermal insulation boards must be pressed tightly not only to the insulated surface, but also to adjacent slabs. The insulation is laid in rows.

After the thermal insulation layer has dried (after about 3 days), it is necessary to further strengthen the thermal insulation layer. For this, dowels are used, which, depending on the porosity of the wall material, go 5-9 cm deep into the wall.

Before installing the fasteners, the sockets must first be made, and the clamping bushings must be positioned flush with the surface of the heat-insulating layer.

Installation of the reinforcing layer

The reinforcing layer must be installed 1-3 days after installation

thermal insulation layer. First of all, the slopes of windows and doors, the outer corners of the building and the vertical joints of the slopes with lintels should be strengthened. After that

Smooth wall surfaces are strengthened.

Reinforcement is carried out as follows:

• An adhesive composition is applied to the heat-insulating layer, onto which a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is mounted.
• A uniform layer of glue is applied over the fiberglass mesh, which should completely cover the structure.

The result should be a flat surface. The thickness of the reinforcing layer should not exceed 6 mm, while the fiberglass mesh is positioned in such a way that the distance between it and the outer surface does not exceed 1-2 mm.

Exterior decoration

The reinforcing layer must dry within 3-7 days. After this, the walls of the building are plastered with facade plaster mixtures.

TO exterior decoration buildings have quite high requirements. The plaster layer must be highly moisture resistant, vapor permeable, and resistant to external destructive factors. The façade of a building must withstand not only temperature changes and precipitation, but also withstand mechanical loads.

The quality and properties of plastered surfaces directly depend on the conditions of plastering work. Plaster must be applied at temperatures from 5 to 30 degrees above zero. At the same time, if plastering work are carried out in dry and fairly hot weather, the surface to be plastered must be additionally moistened with water.

To preserve the qualities of facade plaster, it is necessary to plaster the walls in calm and cloudy weather, since wind and ultraviolet radiation negatively affect the adhesion and strength of the plaster layer.

Installation of a wet facade on the base of a building

When installing a wet facade on the basement part of the structure, there are some features that should be taken into account during the installation process.

Before installing a wet facade on the base of a building, it is necessary to ensure high-quality waterproofing of both the base itself and the blind area. To insulate the base, you should use a heat insulator that has a minimum degree of moisture absorption. Hygroscopic insulation materials such as mineral. Basalt, lime, dolomite and slag wool are not used to insulate the base.

Thermal insulation slabs are additionally reinforced with dowels only at a height of 30 cm from the ground.

The base must be reinforced in two layers.

For cladding the basement part, façade or ceramic slabs. The base of the structure can be plastered with a façade mosaic plaster mixture.

Video tutorial on installing the “Wet Facade” technology..

Many home craftsmen and professional companies are increasingly using so-called wet facades to decorate their homes. What it is, you need to know before you think about whether it’s worth applying for an update external walls this technology at home. The wet facade is equipped with a heat insulator, which is extruded polystyrene foam or other material with qualities that will give the system strength and resistance to damage. external influences.

Description

Wet facade, as its name implies, involves the use of a wet method of applying external finishing. That is why any façade that uses an adhesive composition or a wet mixture can be called wet.

Semi-liquid adhesive compositions can also be used in the work, which are quite possible to purchase in finished form. You can buy it already ready mixture or one that involves additional dissolution before starting work.

wet type

The wet facade must contain three main layers, one of which is heat-insulating, fixed to the rough surface with glue. As a rule, a polymer cement solution is used as an adhesive composition. Among its positive features one can highlight high-quality adhesion to the load-bearing surface and any type of insulation. Polystyrene foam can be used as insulation. But it is also used, it is necessary to purchase it for this kind of work in form of hard slabs

A wet facade assumes the presence of another layer, which acts as base material. It is based on a rigid layer designed to protect the thermal insulation from external mechanical influences. It is on the base layer that the fastening is made decorative covering. Traditionally it is customary to use it in tandem with reinforcing mesh. In the vast majority of cases, the solution is based on fiberglass with impregnation, which protects against alkali.

If you have chosen a wet facade, the installation technology assumes that it also contains an external decorative coating. The most popular material is textured plaster. It is quite easy to apply and has a low cost. In addition, it is also valuable that it does not affect the walls and façade of the building with its weight, since its mass is insignificant.

Advantages of a wet facade

If you are interested in wet facades, what they are, you need to find out more. It is worth paying attention to the positive features of this finishing method. Among the most important, as already mentioned, is cost. So, if you do the work yourself, then a square meter of finishing will cost approximately 300-800 rubles; the final price will be affected by the cost of the plaster and thermal insulation used in the work. Another advantage is the fairly extensive color scheme. This also applies to invoice solutions. But if there is a need to change the color, the surface can be painted in any shade.

Installation of a wet facade requires the presence of insulating material, which allows you to obtain a practical finish with thermal insulation characteristics. If you are just starting to build a house and know that the facade will be finished using the wet method, then you can save on work, because the walls will then be insulated. And you can really save on the building materials themselves, since the thickness of the walls can be such that it is enough to ensure strength.

When considering wet facades, what they are, it is imperative to understand and take into account that such systems have little weight, despite their multi-layer nature. This indicates the possibility of thermally insulating a capital building with stone walls. Can be ennobled in this way and frame houses, which are installed on a columnar or strip base. Due to the fact that the insulation will be strengthened outside the living space, the usable area of ​​the building will remain unchanged.

Dew point offset

When you consider wet facades, what they are is important to understand. After all, if you do not take into account all the features of such a system, then you can make your choice in favor of a less profitable and not so attractive solution for your home.

It is also important to take into account that the location of the insulation outside the external walls is very advisable, because this allows you to move the dew point beyond the main walls. Whereas if thermal insulation is carried out from the inside of the room, you will have to think about combating the resulting condensation and moisture from outside sealing material. All these circumstances indicate that a wet facade, work on which will be done independently, does not imply problems associated with the formation of fungus and mold on the walls.

Disadvantages of a wet facade

It must be remembered that everything has its drawbacks, and the facade arrangement system using wet technology is no exception. Such work can only be done in the warm season. In addition, bad weather can also prevent the continuation of work, which can delay the completion of the process for some time. If this requirement is not taken into account, then dirty spots will remain on the surface of the facade. In addition, the approximate service life of a wet facade does not exceed 30 years, which is significantly less compared to other types of external wall construction.

During operation, the duration of preservation of the original appearance of the walls can be reduced; this can be influenced by temperature changes. Thus, if there is a large difference between their values, this fact can greatly affect the durability of the facade.

wet facade

A wet facade, the installation technology of which requires the use of several layers, may involve the use of not only adhesive mixtures. If there is a need to reduce the cost of work, then you can use less expensive analogues, however, when purchasing, it is important to take into account that the adhesive composition must have certain characteristics, among them excellent steam permeability, as well as resistance to frost and external influences. The adhesive mixture can not only strengthen the material, but also level the surface.

The “wet facade” system, as mentioned above, can be based on mineral wool or expanded polystyrene slabs. If we compare, the first option has excellent thermal insulation qualities, especially good ones. But today many people refuse fiberglass, since it is not so durable, which makes it vulnerable.

Technical characteristics of the thermal insulation layer

If you decide to choose a wet facade for arranging it, then you need to purchase one that has a tensile strength of 15 kPa or higher. If you use a material that does not have such impressive strength, then the facade will not endure wind loads.

As for density, it should vary between 130-180 kg/m3. This requirement must be taken into account so that the layers of plaster do not crumble. This material must also have alkali resistance, which is equal to 12.5 pH or higher. This requirement is due to the fact that between materials there is alkaline reaction, which can damage the thermal insulation. The thickness of the slabs is also important. The difference between them should not be more than 3 mm. This is necessary to ensure that the facade is aesthetically pleasing. Water absorption of the material should not exceed 1.5% of the volume of insulation.

Characteristics of the polystyrene foam layer

If you are installing a wet façade, it is important to choose the right materials. So, if the insulation layer is based on polystyrene foam, then certain requirements are imposed on it in terms of strength, which cannot be less than 100 kPa. As for density, this figure can vary from 15 to 25 kg/m3. A flat surface is also important here; deviation is allowed no more than 0.5%.

Characteristics of the plaster layer and external coating

It is important to take into account that the plaster layer must also meet certain characteristics. Thus, the density of the layer should be in the range from 145 to 200 g/m2, while the thickness should be approximately 3-5 mm.

It is important to choose for the decorative layer the right material, which must necessarily have increased vapor permeability characteristics. But it is recommended to choose a density equivalent to 1.6 g/m3. If you comply with all these requirements when choosing a material, then the wet facade will meet all the characteristics of a high-quality system that will last for as long as necessary.

The “wet facade” finish today continues to be popular for the reason that the house looks very presentable after the work, and the costs do not break the owners’ pockets.

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Before considering the issue on its merits, you should understand the terminology. The fact is that many articles give fundamentally incorrect definitions of a wet facade, which causes confusion among inexperienced developers. Amateurs call such insulation as a wet facade, for the installation of which water-based glue is used. Since this material is “wet”, then the facade, accordingly, is also “wet”. To be convincing, they talk about the dew point (in this case, it is supposedly outside the wall) and the information takes on a “scientific” appearance. What really?

According to currently existing building regulations, all buildings must meet heat conservation requirements. It is impossible to achieve this without the use of insulation. For example, even wooden walls in the middle zone of our country they must have a thickness of at least 60 cm, only such parameters guarantee the required thermal conductivity.

If the walls are made of brick, then their thickness increases to 120 cm or more. Of course, no one builds such houses, and to improve heat saving indicators they use effective insulation materials, most often mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Insulation can be done on both internal and external surfaces of facade walls. Let's focus on external surfaces; they are insulated in two ways.

As for the dew point, in all cases without exception it is taken outside the premises. The only exception is that the walls of the house are so thin that the rooms are cooled to the dew point. Such cases happen in old panel Khrushchev buildings.

We specifically took your time to explain the terminology; only knowing this can you correctly understand the process of insulating facades using various technologies.

Technically, such facades should be technically correctly called a heat-insulating composite system for insulating facade walls with external plaster layers. Foam or pressed mineral wool slabs are used as insulation; their thickness is selected taking into account the climatic zone and the initial thermal conductivity characteristics of the façade walls. But in most cases you need at least ten centimeters. Pressed mineral wool is used very rarely and only special types. The reason is insufficient physical strength, partial shrinkage during operation. What layers does a wet façade consist of?

1. The base is the façade wall. It can be brick, wood, foam blocks, monolithic concrete or OSB sheets. Requirement: the surface must be flat. Otherwise, air will circulate between the wall surface and the foam plastic boards, and because of this phenomenon, the effectiveness of insulation decreases significantly.
2. Thermal insulation layer. Expanded polystyrene of facade grades (non-flammable). Fixed with glue and disc dowels.
3. Fiberglass mesh. It is advisable to purchase meshes that are resistant to alkalis.
4. Ordinary paintable or decorative plaster. It is permissible to do finishing with light facing façade slabs.

Before we begin to describe the technology for installing a wet facade, we would like to dwell in more detail on the requirements for facade plaster. The quality in this case is directly proportional to the number of years during which the following will be preserved in their original form:

• integrity of the facade;
• its novelty.

So, it is best to opt for elastic facade plasters. Silicone compounds are ideal, for example, the new generation “Bark Beetle” plaster. Let's consider the main advantages of this façade covering.

Elasticity. Due to the presence of silicone, “Bark Beetle” is flexible and elastic. These coating properties prevent the formation of microscopic cracks in dried plaster. This is an important quality, because after completion of construction work any building is subject to:

• vibrations affecting the structure during shrinkage;
• expansion and contraction of the materials from which the building is made as temperatures change.

All of the above circumstances lead to the formation of small and frequent cracks on ordinary plaster. An elastic silicone composition can protect your facade from this trouble.

Texture of silicone plaster “Bark beetle”, grain 2 mm

Moisture resistance. Another unique feature of the Bark Beetle plaster from the Farbe plant is its 100% resistance to moisture and complete vapor permeability. We can again thank the unusual composition of the mixture for this. The finished plaster fits tightly to every unevenness of the wall being coated, and creates a protection through which water is guaranteed not to be able to seep through.

Long-term color retention. Farbe plaster contains silicone resins, which provide the following effects:

• the surface does not fade – protection from ultraviolet rays is provided;
• prevents the effect of any other phenomena that influence the loss of brightness of the facade.

If, as a result of mechanical impact, the plaster was scratched or rubbed somewhere, you won’t even notice it. The entire mass of plaster is tinted in color and no scratches or abrasions are visible on it.

Self-cleaning. Thanks to the “clean facade” technology, the “Bark Beetle” facing plaster cleans itself. This happens due to the following factors:

• when distributed and hardened, the elastic composition forms a smooth, solid film;
• even in the presence of light rain, dust settled on the façade is easily washed off without outside help.

In other words, if you are too lazy to take care of the appearance of your home yourself, and would like it to “look like itself,” Bark Beetle plaster from the Farbe plant is your option.

Record service life. The service life of Bark Beetle is on average five times longer than that of similar products on the market today. If using conventional plaster, you renew the façade coating once every 5 years, with “Bark Beetle” you need to do this once every quarter of a century.

Tinting. According to the manufacturer, the bark beetle silicone plaster you are interested in can be tinted in approximately 2,500 different shades. This variety is due to the use of computer tinting and pigments from the world's leading manufacturers.

Variants of shades of silicone plaster “Bark beetle” Farbe

Small expense. Dry plasters require a material consumption for cladding of approximately 5 kilograms per 1 m². However, the product of the Farbe plant due to the quality and high density composition suggests using no more than 3 kilograms for the same unit of area, which is sufficient to form an ideal coating.

The production of the silicone plaster for facades in question is certified according to international standards. By purchasing silicone plaster, you provide the walls of your own home with reliable protection.

Prices for foam plastic

Styrofoam

Video - How to apply silicone bark beetle plaster

Prices for various types of decorative bark beetle plaster

Decorative plaster bark beetle

Wet façade installation technology

Count the quantity building materials with a margin of approximately 10%, prepare your tools. We recommend using it as insulation foam boards, this is the cheapest and very effective option. The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is that it is completely impenetrable to moisture, but you have to put up with this. Moreover, brick or concrete surfaces hardly breathe anyway.

To finish the facades you will need scaffolding; it is better to use metal ones. If not, make it yourself from lumber. Pay special attention to safety precautions and install them on stable surfaces. Check the position by level; if the building has more than two floors, then you need to tie the vertical posts to the facade walls with special metal hooks.

Important. When installing the scaffolding, leave a gap between it and the wall; the gap size should ensure comfortable hand operation when plastering or painting the insulating layer. Otherwise, the scaffolding will have to be dismantled and reinstalled, which is a waste of time and money.

Step 1. Check the surfaces of the façade walls; uneven surfaces larger than 1 cm need to be cut down; all others can be smoothed out using glue. Don't be afraid that the cost of work will increase. If you calculate the time for additional plastering of the walls and the price of materials, then using glue as a leveling solution will be much more profitable.

Step 2. Using a special rope with blue, beat off the bottom horizontal line, do it in a strictly horizontal position. If you are afraid that the first row of foam plastic boards will slide down, then you need to fix a flat wooden or metal strip along the line. Fasten it with dowels or nails, it all depends on the material of the façade wall.

Practical advice. Disc-shaped dowels must match the base; they differ for wooden, foam block and brick walls Please keep this in mind when purchasing materials. Dowels can be screwed into wood or driven into a prepared hole. The length of the dowel should be equal to the thickness of the foam sheet and glue, plus approximately 60 mm for fixation in the wall.

Step 3. Porous surfaces should be primed, use a primer deep penetration. Apply the solution liberally for maximum penetration of porous substrates. Spray cement laitance onto smooth cement or brick façade walls. Such operations will increase the adhesion coefficient of the glue to surfaces.

Step 4. Measure the deviation from the horizontal of the corners of the house and check the plane of the walls. This can be done with a plumb line and rope.

1. In the corners of the house, install plumb lines along the entire height of the wall. Tie the rope at the top and bottom to specially installed metal rods, and stretch it well.
2. Attach a horizontal cord to the stretched ropes; do not tighten the knots.
3. Gradually pull the horizontal cord up along the vertical ropes and measure the distance between it and the wall.

This data will make it possible to assess the condition of the wall. If deviations exceed a centimeter, they will have to be repaired.

Step 5. Prepare according to manufacturer's instructions glue mixture. The quantity depends on your productivity. While preparing the mixture, pour water into the container, and then pour in the dry ingredients.

Practical advice. If the façade walls are covered old paint, then do not rush to remove it, it is long and difficult. First check the strength of adhesion to the base. To do this, cut a grid of grooves approximately 1x1 cm in size in the paint, glue it to the surface masking tape and tear it off. If the paint remains on the wall, great, the insulation of the facade can be done using it. If not, you will have to remove it from the surface of the walls.

Step 6. Glue must be applied to the surface of the foam. If the wall is smooth (unevenness does not exceed 5 mm), use a comb. But this happens extremely rarely. In most cases, the solution will have to be applied with a trowel or spatula using the beacon method. One sheet requires up to eight beacons up to two centimeters high around the perimeter and in the center, with a diameter of approximately 10 cm. Due to this height, the foam plates are easy to level. Along the edges of the slab, glue should be applied at an angle to prevent it from getting into the seams.

Important. After one or two rows, eliminate the possibility of natural convection of air between the insulation and façade wall, otherwise natural draft will appear and insulation will be ineffective. Not just bad, but ineffective, keep that in mind. To eliminate draft, the mortar on these slabs must be continuous along one line, and there should be no gap between the slabs.

Step 7 Immediately after spreading, apply the slab to the surface. Press and level the foam using a long wooden trowel or lath; control the position with a level.

Important. Inexperienced builders may deviate vertically and find it difficult to control the position with a level. We recommend making a template for yourself from ropes. Pull them at the desired distance from the wall and secure. The ropes will need to be installed at a distance of approximately 2–3 meters. Such simple devices will allow you to constantly monitor the position of all foam sheets along the height of the facade wall.

The difference in height of the planes of two adjacent slabs cannot exceed two millimeters. If deviations are found, then after the glue has cooled, the protrusions must be carefully cut off with a very sharp knife and the transition made invisible. If you get wide joints between the ends of the slabs, it’s okay, they will then be blown out with polyurethane foam. It is recommended to start the second and subsequent rows from internal corners and move towards the external ones, the internal ones are more difficult to adjust.

Step 8 To increase the fire resistance of buildings, it is necessary to make fire-resistant jumpers between each floor. This requirement of the new legislation is aimed at improving the safety and fire resistance of buildings. Fire resistant cuts are made from pressed mineral wool of the same thickness as foam boards. The width of the cuts is at least twenty centimeters. Jumpers are installed along the entire perimeter of buildings and at windows and doorways.

Step 9 Finishing window and door openings. Take the dimensions of the slopes and cut the slabs along them. Don't rush, all joints should be as even as possible. It is better to use mineral wool as insulation, but the choice is yours. If finishing relatively massive, then take polystyrene foam. The insulation should cover the frame of the window and door, thereby reducing heat loss and improving the appearance of the façade wall.

Important. In the place where the window sill will be installed, the foam must be cut at an angle to ensure unhindered flow of water. One more thing. The seams of the slabs should not be a continuation of the slopes. In these places you need to use whole slabs and make appropriate cutouts in them to fit the size of the window. This method prevents water from accidentally entering the gap between the façade wall and the foam. Minimum permissible distance from the seam to the slopes 15 cm.

On the part of the slab adjacent to window block, no glue is applied. Subsequently, the gap is foamed with construction foam.

Seal all the cracks with polyurethane foam, and after it has cooled, carefully cut off the remains. Fill the voids with foam to the entire thickness of the slabs; it is recommended to moisten the surfaces before foaming.

Step 10 After the glue has completely hardened, increase the fixation strength with special dowels with large heads. They need to be installed at the junction of the corners and in the center of each sheet. We have already mentioned that no technology recommends installing insulation boards without dowels; no most expensive glue provides such reliable fixation as dowels. There must be at least four pieces for every square meter of slab.

At this point the insulation process is complete, you can begin further finishing.

Plastering insulation

A very important process; not only the appearance of the façade wall, but also the durability of the entire finish depends on the quality of its execution. To increase adhesion strength and protect foam sheets from mechanical damage, you need to use plastic mesh, cell size is approximately 5 mm. Before starting work, check the wall surface long rule or lath.

First you need to trim the corners. Metal perforated profiles are used to strengthen the corners. Cut strips of mesh approximately 30–40 cm wide. Apply glue to the corners of buildings of the same width, embed the reinforcing mesh into it, and level it. Install a metal profile in the corners and again drown it in the solution. Level the surface. The top corners will be covered with a new mesh during the finishing of the façade walls.

Step 1. Using an even metal float or a wide spatula, apply a layer of mortar approximately 2–3 mm thick over the slabs, leveling it immediately. There is no need to try very hard, the main thing is that it sticks well to the surface of the foam. Fiberglass mesh is easier to lay from top to bottom; the overlap must be at least ten centimeters.

Important. Never apply the mesh to a dry wall and then cover it with glue, only outright hacks do this. The fact is that this finishing method significantly reduces the adhesion strength of the materials; in the future, cracks will certainly appear on the plaster. pay attention to ready-made houses, many of them have this drawback - the consequences of the work of unscrupulous craftsmen.

Step 2. Carefully level the surface of the mesh; the fibers should be completely covered with glue. Check the flatness of the wall with a long strip and smooth out any unevenness. To do this, carefully apply a flat strip to the wall and immediately remove it. The footprint will show areas that need leveling.

The surface should be as smooth as possible

Step 3. If the facade is planned to be painted, then a second layer of plaster should be applied, the thickness being within 2–3 mm. The main condition is maximum alignment of the walls. The technology is the same, don’t be upset if marks remain after the spatula, then you can carefully rub them off with an ordinary grater. If decorative plaster is chosen for finishing, then it can be applied over the first layer. The same applies to gluing thin facade slabs.

If the base is insulated, then you need to adhere to the recommended technologies to the maximum extent possible. The surface of the base must be plastered and impregnated several times with a waterproofing solution before gluing the slabs. The fact is that concrete absorbs a lot of moisture, it will get on the glue. And polystyrene foam eliminates the possibility of evaporation, water accumulates under it, expands during freezing and the slabs will fall off, they will only be held on by dowels. If the base is then covered with rather heavy finishing materials, then with their weight they deform the foam plates. IN best case scenario the surfaces will become uneven, in the worst case, you will have to remove the materials and repeat the insulation of the house from the beginning.

In the absence of experience in performing such work, it is difficult to know whether the foam is securely glued. We recommend doing a test gluing. Apply the solution around the perimeter and in the center, place the sheet against the façade wall and level its position. Immediately remove the foam and look at the glue marks on the wall. They must be uniform over the entire area, and the total area must be at least 40% of the sheet size. Such a simple test will make it possible to further focus on the amount and location of glue application. In addition, you will feel how hard you should press the foam sheet against the façade wall.

Always start installing a row from a corner and from the whole slab. If a whole slab does not fit at the opposite corner, then it must be cut to size and used second to last, and the last one must be intact. As a last resort, the area where the foam is glued should be twice the area of ​​the part protruding beyond the corner of the house. Do not forget that the slab should protrude beyond the corner of the building by its thickness; in this place, the insulation from the two walls should overlap. It’s better to make a protrusion with a reserve, the excess will be cut off later. The solution should not get on the protruding part of the slab. The next rows of polystyrene foam are installed on top of the previous ones in gearing. The tighter they fit, the more secure the fastening. In external corners the heaviest load, and you can’t protect yourself with dowels, remember this and carefully carry out all operations. The slabs on the wall must be placed staggered; vertical seams on the wall must not overlap.

Check the position of the first row especially carefully; it is this that sets the level for the entire wall. It is recommended to lay subsequent rows only after the glue on the first one has completely cured and fixed it with dowels.

Do not allow glue to get into the joints between the boards. Why? Cement mixtures have high thermal conductivity and form cold bridges. They will become noticeable on the facade walls in the form of wet stripes. There are cases when such shortcomings cannot be hidden even decorative plaster. The stripes are not permanent and appear or disappear depending on climatic conditions.

The main task of the reinforcing mesh is to protect the foam from mechanical damage. Experienced builders know that it is impossible to clean foam from dried high-quality glue without damaging the surface. This means that the role of the mesh in holding the plaster is minimal. If the mass falls off, repairs cannot be avoided anyway; the plaster will sag on the mesh. Hence the conclusion - reinforcement must be done in those areas of the facade wall that can be damaged by mechanical forces, as a rule, no higher than 1.5 m from the base. Everything above is at your personal discretion.

You can cut foam boards with a hacksaw fine teeth. But this is not the best option. A much smoother cut is obtained after cutting with a heated nichrome wire. It can be bought in specialized stores; the length of the wire depends on the diameter. Stretch the wire in a convenient place and connect to the outlet. Uneven cut edges after a hacksaw can be smoothed with a special grater.

Video - Device for cutting polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam has very low adhesion to adhesives. Before use, be sure to scrape it on both sides with a grater until shallow grooves appear.

Video - Preparing polystyrene foam for gluing

Do not use this material as the main thermal insulation; it can only be used to finish the base. And then only in cases where the finishing of these surfaces is done with heavy materials.

Video - Wet façade installation technology