Hatch in a wooden floor standard series. Types and installation of hatches for basement openings. How to choose material and type of construction

The production base must have a fleet of equipment: metal cutting and bending, stamping, drilling machine, welding station, Grinder, spray booth.

Materials

What you need to make a hatch for a floor hole:
1. Door hinges.
2. Lock with a latch for a square key.
3. Corner for the frame.
4. Pipe for the cover frame.
5. Sheet metal for welding hinges.
6. Rod for making a T-shaped removable handle-key.
7. A sheet of drywall for the lid.
8. Car shock absorbers.
9. Nuts for attaching shock absorbers to the cover and base.

All these materials need to be found in different places and bought at retail in pieces with a reserve if it doesn’t work out the first time. The workshop for welding metal structures does not keep this nomenclature in stock; they will look for it or entrust it to you. GKL is sold in sheets, and metal - in rods! You will receive the remaining materials with the finished product and, most likely, throw it away as unnecessary.

Drawing and calculation of hatch dimensions

You can find drawings of floor hatches on the Internet and modify them yourself if you have real skills in design and strength calculation of loads on metal structures. When you come to production, specialists will tell you which components need to be improved, in terms of their experience and your wishes.

Hatch "Standard" with hinge

No one will guarantee the proper operation of the hatch on site after installation in the nearest metalworking shop. A metal structure will be manufactured and painted according to your specifications. Does it open? Opening! Are there any chips on the body? No! Thank you for your order, come again! When leaving the factory gates, all responsibility for the quality work of the hatch at the facility falls on you.

Installation

Your builders install the hatch to the best of their ability. Drawings and wiring diagrams from the Internet can help, but you need to take into account the features " self made» the product you made.

Expert advice: What to pay attention to when making a basement hatch with your own hands?

If you decide to weld a hatch into a floor hole yourself or order a metal structure from your nearest workshop, we recommend that you pay attention to the following points:

1. The angle you choose for the frame must be strong enough to withstand the load and maintain its geometry during operation. It is optimal to use a corner with a thickness of 4-5 mm.

2. Power of shock absorbers - the cover should not fly out suddenly to avoid traumatic consequences, and if the shock absorbers cannot cope with pushing out the cover, the hatch door simply will not open. Your goal: easy and smooth lifting of the lid when turning the handle in the lock. The number and power of shock absorbers must be determined at the testing stage of the product design.

3. Correct location of shock absorbers relative to the frame base of the structure and hatch covers. The shock absorbers must be secured so that their complete release raises the cover to a 90-degree angle. Otherwise, the gas pneumatic lift may simply be torn out of the bushing due to the inertia of the heavy door.

4. The location of the plasterboard panel of the cover relative to the plane of the base of the frame in height. A low-set lid will not open with tiles. The high lid opens well with the tiles, but does not align with the finished floor. Look for balance.

5. Hidden hinge design, simulated hinge opening with floor tiles on the lid. Hidden hinges are often used in entrance doors. But on vertical doors there is no facing covering up to 15 mm thick. The minimum clearance requirement must be taken into account. This requires additional design work on the hinge configuration and checking the technological feasibility of the product components before assembling the finished hatch.

6. The gaps between the tile seams on the hinge side should ensure contactless opening of the lid without creases or chips of the tile edge in the hinge area. A well-made hidden hinge should provide a smart gap with equal tile spacing around the entire perimeter of the door. It is ideal to achieve a front-hinged opening design, when the lid first rises up and then folds back. This is aerobatics!

What does it look like for manufacturers of ready-made basement hatches?

We admit that a basement hatch, like a cutlet for McDonald's, can be made to order by any manufacturer of metal structures, but several recognized manufacturers in Russia have design documentation with load calculations.

Stable high quality products are issued by those who design and mass-produce horizontally installed basement hatches. Such niche enterprises in Russia can be counted on one hand. They have accumulated invaluable experience and, taking into account the operation of the products, created design documentation for almost every hatch size.

Let us note, however, that despite all the apparent lightness of the design of the hatch components, it is based on deep technological development of the mechanisms and preparation of production. Therefore, simple attempts to reproduce a metal structure sometimes lead to unsuccessful results or a series of alterations in finished interior after renovation in a residential area. A real example - we had to weld in additional fasteners to install a third shock absorber.

What benefits do you receive as a buyer of a ready-made floor hatch?

Industry enterprises paid a high price for production errors. A huge amount of experience has been gained taking into account the actual operation of hatches in basements and cellars of houses and garages throughout Russia.

The engineers of these industries know exactly when three opening mechanisms are needed, and when two gas lifts are enough to maintain the price of the product.

It has been tested in practice how much power shock absorbers are needed - 700 or 1000 Newtons, so that the hatch smoothly opens the hole in the floor and does not shoot out along with the tiles.

The company's designers have clearly defined the parameters for using an angle or pipe square section so that the hatch frame can withstand the declared load.

The need to install additional fasteners to maintain the geometry of the frame and prevent twisting of the body elements is regulated.

The universal height of the lid relative to the frame has been calculated for the correct opening of the lined lid without chipping.
Recommendations have been issued for the number of stiffeners in the door so that it can withstand the declared load and guarantee smooth movement in the floor with an even load of the door frame on the shock absorbers.

The hatch production plant receives necessary materials tons and kilometers. In addition, flow production minimizes waste. Who do you think has a cheaper purchase price?

Still, should you cook it yourself or buy a ready-made hatch?

It would seem that it would be difficult to make such a hatch into the basement with your own hands? There are hinges, shock absorbers, locks, but simply copying the design does not always lead to the desired result. Either the lid does not rise, or the gap between the tiles is at the hinge the width of a finger. Then the closed lid wanders on the floor when you step on it, which, by the way, leads to the breaking of the tongue in the lock.

Insure yourself against these problems once and for all! Order reliable hatch Into the basement factory assembled from a recognized manufacturer in Russia. Serial production guarantees the compatibility of components and mechanisms; welding according to type-setting templates is carried out without frozen splashes or metal sagging.

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The space between the ceiling of the first (ground) floor and the ground surface is called the technical underground. The technical underground is used for engineering systems and as a cellar, so the entrance to it, in order to exclude the influence of the weather factor, is arranged through a hatch (lyada) in the floor of the first floor.

If the floor of a room that already has a hatch to the basement is planned to be finished with ceramic tiles, then you need to evaluate the design and technical condition of the hatch from the point of view of the possibility of laying ceramics on it. When the entrance to the cellar is built from scratch, you need to think about its size, location and structure.

Invisible floor hatches can be purchased in standard sizes

When designing a hatch in the floor, consultation with specialists is necessary, since thoughtlessly cutting a hole in the floor slab with your own hands can lead to its collapse.

Necessary conditions for finishing a hatch cover with ceramics

The main requirement for a hatch into the basement when covering its frame and lid with tiles is rigidity and resistance of the components to deformation, necessary to ensure the strength of the tile laying and the solidity of the floor ceramic shell.

The second condition is the strict geometry of the structure. Deviations of the floor from the design plane, incorrect values of right angles and linear values after laying tiles on it will negate the advantages of even exclusive floor cladding.

Requirements for a tiled hatch

The floor cover of the basement entrance must withstand significant loads arising from walking and moving furniture.

Lyada must have heat and sound insulation properties to neutralize differences in room temperatures and noise from the operation of mechanisms located in the technical underground.

The hatch cover to the basement should be convenient, safe and reliable.

The tiled cellar hatch cover must have a weight that allows it to be easily lifted by the handle by one person without the use of improvised means. Consequently, the dimensions of the lyada, based on the purpose of the basement, should not exceed the dimensions necessary for safe operation.

From the natural requirement for a hatch - its accessibility, it follows that the cover of the hatch into the basement will be located in a visible place and therefore should not spoil the interior of the room. Moreover, the location of the lyada in most cases is not such that its finishing could be done for artistic purposes in a way that contrasts with the floor covering, for example, strictly in the center. Therefore, it is advisable to lay ceramics on the hatch cover in such a way as to turn it into an “invisible hatch”, merging with the ceramic coating of the rest of the area when closed.

The manhole cover is decorated in full accordance with the material of the general flooring

To do this, the layout of the tiles on the lid should be an integral part of the chosen method of laying tiles on the floor, without differing in height, width and color of the seams, format and size of the ceramics.

Types of hatches for ceramic finishing

All entrance devices to the cellar, regardless of design, of which there are many, are divided into industrially produced and hand-made.

The hatch cover to the basement should be convenient, safe and reliable.

The perfect invisible hatch, which meets all operating requirements, is a complex device that includes, in addition to a box with a hinged lid, the following equipment:

gas shock absorber system to facilitate lifting the lid;
locking and sealing device with a removable key for lifting the lid;
mechanism for fixing the lid in the open position;
decorative plug for the locking mechanism.

In addition, the outer surface of some samples is made of reinforced mesh to facilitate subsequent tiling.

As a rule, the manufacture of an invisible hatch in industrial conditions is carried out at the stage of building a house. In this situation, it is easier to link the dimensions of the floor manhole cover with the dimensions of the selected ceramic tiles so that the tiling of the floor is continuous, without visually noticeable joints between the perimeter of the lid and the opening to the basement. In addition, in a professional workshop, depending on the weight of the finished product, they will choose best option equipping the invisibility hatch with gas shock absorbers.

Hatch installation diagram

The price of such a floor product starts from 10 thousand rubles; its installation by professionals will cost at least the same amount. Therefore, if we are talking about an invisible hatch for entering the cellar from the kitchen or hallway, which does not require complex technical solutions, then you can make it yourself. If the input device has a significant weight and area, and is intended for installation in the ceiling between a living space and a basement equipped for leisure, then it is better to think about purchasing a finished product made according to your drawing.

Manufacturing a floor entrance device for tiles

The invisible hatch for laying tiles is made of steel. The box is assembled from pieces of channel No. 8, No. 10 or angle steel 80x80, 100x100 mm, cut to the size of the opening, joined end-to-end by electric welding and processed at the joints with a grinder and a grinding stone.

Steel floor hatch under tiles with shock absorbers can withstand heavy loads

The cover of the hole into the basement must also be rigid, therefore it is a frame welded from a 75x75 mm corner with transverse braces, on which a sheet of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm is fixed by electric welding. The hinges of the invisible hatch to the basement must be internal, outer size The frame is taken according to the internal dimensions of the box with a gap of 2 mm, and the dimensions of the steel sheet must be 3-5 cm larger than the dimensions of the frame so that the hatch cover rests on the box around the perimeter.

If cement-based tile adhesive is used to decorate the invisibility hatch with floor ceramics, then the outer surface of the cover is reinforced with a mesh of steel wire with a diameter of 5 mm, which is welded using Kemppi welding (semi-automatic). There is no need for reinforcement if the tiles will be fixed with a composition based on reactive resins.

To ensure heat and sound insulation, the cellar side of the cellar is finished with extruded polystyrene sheets 3-4 cm thick, which can be fixed to the steel with PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue. On top of the foam plastic, you can lay a layer of reinforcing nylon mesh on top of the glue with your own hands, and then a mosaic, and decorate its seams with grout.

Laying tiles on a floor hatch

The ceramic floor finishing of the room in which the invisible hatch into the cellar is located begins with lining the lid. When using cement tile adhesive on lyada, first apply a continuous layer and level the preparatory layer of the mixture to cover the reinforcing mesh. A day later, when the composition has hardened, they begin laying the tiles.

The adhesive is applied to the tiles with a flat spatula, after which its remnants are removed with a spatula-comb. The product is applied to the corner of the lid and aligned so that its outer edges are flush with the edges of the lid. The next tile is installed side by side using the same principle, maintaining a fixed width of the tile joints using plastic crosses. The width of the tile joints on the lid should be equal to the size of the gaps between the roof and the edge of the opening in the tiled floor.

If the tile is attached to the lid with epoxy-based glue, then the base must be cleaned of oxides and degreased. The technology for laying tiles with your own hands in this case is no different from the methods floor finishing other reasons. The main requirements are that the tiles are placed flush with the edges of the lid and with seams equal in size to the gap between the lid and the edge of the opening in the floor.

There are two types of hatches: with shock absorbers and with a removable cover

In the tile covering the locking device, you cut out a hole with your own hands to access the lock. The hole closed by the decorative plug is made in accordance with its configuration.

The finishing of the rest of the floor begins after finishing the lining of the invisible manhole, continuing the rows of tiles from the lid to the sides. The level of the floor ceramics is kept equal to the tile mark on the floor.

Conclusion

Finishing a hatch with tiles, making it “invisible” is not an easy task. Without experience in this type of work, you should not undertake its implementation in a responsible place. However, the task is still simplified by the small area of the lid, the lining of which can be remade with your own hands, without waiting for the glue to completely cure.

In addition, the hatch to the basement, in case of unsuccessful finishing, can always be hidden under a floor mat.

The hatch turns the basement into an isolated room, so that a dog or cat will not fall into it. If the hatch is equipped with a reliable lock, then vegetables or seams will not be stolen from your basement. In this article we will talk about in various ways installing a hatch into the basement. These methods depend on the material the basement roof is made from, as well as the tools and construction skills available.

Hatch dimensions

There is no standard regulating the size of a basement hatch, but all hatches can be divided into two types:

with straight stairs;
with an oblique staircase.

A hatch is a passage in the roof of the basement, but the distance from it to the floor is 2–4 meters, so you can’t do without a ladder. If a vertical staircase is installed in the basement, then a hatch is needed small size, which will let any family member in with a bag or jar in their hands. If the staircase is installed obliquely, then a long hatch will be required, because the descent to the basement runs diagonally. The length of such a hatch can reach 2 meters. A further increase in length does not make sense, because most basement stairs are installed at an angle of 45 degrees or more, that is, at a distance of 2 meters from the beginning of the hatch, the height will be at least 2 meters. Therefore, even a tall person can easily pass through such a hatch.

Material for making hatch

For making a hatch, boards and steel are best suited. A hatch made from boards is easier to make and install, because you don’t have to use a grinder and welding machine. But the metal hatch is stronger, this is important if there is a chance that your basement is going to be robbed by homeless people. For a basement located inside the house, a wooden hatch is preferable - it is not difficult to make and no special strength is expected from it. After all, if an attacker breaks into the house, he will find something to profit from besides the basement. Another advantage of a wooden hatch is that it is much easier to finish it so that it does not stand out on the floor.

Choosing a location for installation

When choosing a location to install a hatch, it is necessary to take into account the structure of the floor and the movement of people. If the floor is made of wood, then the hatch can only be installed between the joists, because damage to even one joist will lead to sagging of the floor, squeaks and vibrations. If the floor is made of hollow core slabs, then the hatch should be located at the junction of two slabs. If the hatch is long, then it must be placed along the slabs. Any other installation will lead to severe weakening of one of the slabs, which may result in its collapse.

In a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, the hatch can be located anywhere, but the closer to the center, the better. The strength of the hatch is much less than the strength of the floor, so it must be installed in those places where people walk least often and do not place furniture. However, the smaller the hatch size, the less susceptible it is to this rule. Hatches measuring up to 80x80 cm (length and width) with a powerful frame and a rebate with a width of at least 25 mm can be installed even in the most accessible places. To do this, the manhole cover will need to be made not from a thin, but from a thick (over 40 mm) board

Hatch design

Any hatch consists of the following elements:

boxes;
doors;
awnings;
pens;
castle

The box is attached to the floor and bears the entire load, so in wooden hatches it is made of planed boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of at least 150 mm. To create an iron hatch box, use a steel corner measuring 50–60 mm.

Most often, in wooden hatches, the door is made of planed boards 20–25 mm thick. If the hatch is located in a passageway, then the door is made of planed boards 40–50 mm thick. In an iron hatch, the door is made of a steel sheet 2–3 mm thick and reinforcements made from a corner with a shelf width of 30–40 mm. Any canopies can be used, as long as they are guaranteed to withstand the weight of the door. Handles can be either protruding or hidden or semi-concealed. Any window or door handles are suitable as protruding handles, and use various rings as hidden or semi-hidden ones. As a lock, you can use either bolts, mortise or padlocks.

How to make a hatch

Any hatch must first be assembled, make sure it works, and only then cut into the floor. Otherwise, a situation is possible when you make a hole in the floor, and then realize that you are missing something and will have to urgently look for what is missing. Therefore, we will tell you in detail how to make wooden and metal hatches and what to pay attention to. The manufacture of any hatch must begin with the selection of materials and tools.

Wooden hatch

To make a wooden hatch you will need to get the following materials:

planed board 50x150 or 50x200 mm;
planed boards 25 or 40 mm thick;
window or door awnings;
self-tapping screws;
nails.

And tools:

milling machine;
jigsaw;
a circular saw;
drill with a set of wood drills;
screwdriver with a set of bits;
hammer;
square;
chisels;
reward (special wood hacksaw for fine work);
pencil.

A milling machine is only needed for cutting the rebates in the boards of the box, so if you don’t have one, visit the nearest carpentry or furniture shop, where they will select the required size rebates for a small fee. The dimensions of the box should be 0.5–1 cm smaller sizes opening. When marking the parts of the box, keep in mind that the vertical (by analogy with ordinary doors) bars on which the canopies are installed must be full length, and the length of the horizontal bars must be calculated.

After all, their length should be less than the width of the box by twice the width of the fold side. Having determined the dimensions of the bars, proceed to cutting the boards. To do this, first use a square to draw a perpendicular line on one of the ends of the board, then cut the board strictly along the line. This operation is called miter cutting and is best done with a circular saw. Then measure the required length of the board, mark a mark and a perpendicular line on it and cut it with a circular saw.

Place a horizontal board on the table and attach vertical boards to its ends. Mark the line vertical boards, then cut along the line of the horizontal boards with a reward (the depth of the cut is equal to the depth of the fold) and carefully chip off the cut area using a chisel. This is necessary to create a level area so that the vertical and horizontal boards are pressed tightly against each other. Having processed all the horizontal boards in this way, assemble the box, knocking it down with nails 100–120 mm long. Align the box with a square, then insert it into the opening to make sure the dimensions match. After this, place the box on the table and cut thin boards. They also need to be trimmed first and then cut to the required length.

The length of the boards should be 2–3 mm less space for them. After this, lay the boards on a workbench or table to form them into a door of the required width. Most likely, the door width will be wider than necessary, so one of the boards will have to be cut using a circular saw. To do this, mark the required width on the folded boards, which is 3–5 mm less than the internal width of the box along the folds. Then draw a straight line parallel to the other edge of the door and cut the board along this line.

Lay out all the door boards on the table and connect them with three boards in the shape of the letter Z, and the width of these boards should be 10 mm less than the internal width of the box, excluding the fold. If you are making a door from a 20–25 mm board, then the length of the nails should be 70 mm. If the board is 35–40 thick, then the length of the nails should be 120 mm. The nails should go through both boards all the way, then use pliers to bend their ends at an angle of 90 degrees at a distance of 1 cm. Having bent the nails, support the heads with something and bend them so that the bent ends enter the wood.

This method of fastening is not only very reliable, but also as safe as possible, because no one will get injured if they get caught on the sharp tip of a nail sticking out of the door. Insert the door into the frame to make sure it fits in and out easily, then insert the frame and door into the opening you prepared for it. If everything is fine, hang the door on the frame and install the hatch in the opening. If the hatch and door no longer fit the opening, check the door with a square; most likely you warped it during assembly. To fix the door, you will have to unbend the nails, pull them out, then align all the boards normally and hammer in the nails again, but in different places. If the door is of the correct shape, then you will have to trim the opening.

Iron hatch

To make it you will need:

corner 50–60 mm;
corner 20–30 mm;
sheet iron 2–3 mm thick;
window or door awnings.

Here is a list of the required tools:

grinder with various discs and a metal brush;
welding inverter;
drill with a set of metal drills;
square;
tap.

Cut the horizontal and vertical elements of the box from a 50-60 mm corner, and you need to cut at an angle of 45 degrees to make it more convenient to cook. Then place all the workpieces on the table, leveling them with a square and connect them with tacks. Carefully place this box blank into the opening to make sure it fits properly. If necessary, widen the opening or adjust its shape. Place the box blank on the table and boil it. Cut a door from sheet metal, and the dimensions of the door should be 5 mm smaller internal size boxes.

Make sure the door fits well into the frame. Cut out 20–30 mm reinforcements from the corner and weld them to the door. Moreover, on the back side the vertical shelf of the corner should be flush with the door, and on the front side there should be a horizontal shelf flush with the door, and the vertical one should be behind it. Thanks to this design, the door will not cling to the frame. In addition to the 4 reinforcements around the perimeter of the door, also weld 2 reinforcements in the shape of the letter X. After this, hang the door on the frame.

Installation

To attach the hatch to the opening, holes are drilled in the vertical bars of the box, then secured to the concrete using anchor bolts, and to the wooden floor using nails. For fastening to a hollow-core slab, we recommend the following method: punch 6-7 holes measuring 5x5 cm in the wall of the slab, then pour thick concrete into them, starting from the outer ones. After pouring concrete into the hole, plug it with a wooden plug. Then fill the next hole and plug it again. So move from the outer holes to the center. After a day, remove the wooden plugs. After 25–30 days, attach the hatch to the opening using anchors. If you want to cover the hatch with finishing so that it looks like a floor, then lower it to the thickness of the finishing material.

Conclusion

Any person who is familiar with carpentry, plumbing or welding can install the hatch independently. After reading the article, you learned what is needed to create and install a hatch, as well as what the procedure is. Thanks to this, you can make a reliable and practical hatch that will protect your basement from unwanted intrusions.

Many owners of private houses do not know how to make a cellar door with their own hands or what the staircase leading there should be like. In this article we will understand the basic requirements for the design of a manhole and try to choose suitable materials and constructive solutions.

Let's start with what we want from going down to the cellar:

If we're talking about about the horizontal hatch, it must be large enough. Remember: they do not go down to the cellar and rise from it empty-handed.

Hint: the minimum horizontal dimensions for a cramped room are 65x70 centimeters.
A slightly larger hatch – 90x90 – will be comfortable for a person of substantial size.

It is desirable that the staircase has a slope of no more than 60 degrees to the horizon and a step width of at least 15 cm. The presence of handrails is extremely welcome: losing your balance on a steep flight of stairs with a load in your hands will be extremely unpleasant.
A cellar door, regardless of its design, should provide maximum thermal insulation. The temperature conditions inside the cellar and in the room above it (or outside, if we are building a separate room) vary greatly for most of the year.
High vapor permeability is also undesirable. You can often come across dubious advice that this structure, like the entire ceiling, should “breathe”. However, in practice, the migration of steam from a warm room to a cold cellar in the summer only leads to an increase in the amount of condensate in it.
However, there is no escape from moisture – some condensation is inevitable.. Hence one more requirement: the doors to the cellar and the frame around them should not rot or rust.

Materials and design

So, taking into account all the stated wishes, let’s consider what materials can be used.

Tree

Preferred, of course, are species that are resistant to decay and dampness: larch, oak, aspen. The door itself is either knocked together from a board with a thickness of 25 millimeters; the box is assembled from timber.

Tip: if you don’t have woodworking machines at your disposal, the easiest way is to purchase a ready-made door frame and adjust it to the required dimensions.

For additional protection from rot, the wood is impregnated with an antiseptic primer; after it dries, it will not hurt to dry the material 2-3 times or coat it with a stain-resistant high humidity polyurethane varnish.

To assemble the shield and box, it is better to use self-tapping screws rather than nails. Of course, stainless steel – yellow or silver. The board is pre-drilled with a smaller diameter and countersunk to fit the screw head. In this case, you do not have to worry about the appearance of cracks.

For hanging the hatch are used hidden hinges, for which recesses are selected in the box. The hinges, of course, are also taken exclusively from stainless steel: black steel will quickly decorate the hatch cover with untidy streaks.

How does the horizontal entrance to the cellar open?

Two simple solutions are used most often:

A groove about 5 centimeters wide is selected in the hatch cover and half covered with a 3 mm plate of duralumin or galvanized steel. The resulting improvised handle will allow you to lift a moderately weighted lid without discomfort.
For thick oak hatches (as cellar hatches were traditionally called), the instructions are slightly different. Here it is better to use a ring that, in a horizontal position, is sunk into a shallow groove.

Metal

Steel lyada is an ordinary steel door appropriate size. Her distinctive feature– completely hidden hinges that will allow the owner to avoid tripping over the lid. Typical materials– profiled pipe with a cross-section of 20x40 millimeters and steel sheet 3 mm thick.

The main problem with steel is its susceptibility to corrosion. How is it resolved? The simplest way– two-three-layer paintwork. Any enamel for external work is applied over the alkyd primer layer.

Gas lifts

A simple device consisting of a cylinder filled with compressed air, a piston and a pair of mounting pads can greatly simplify the lifting of a massive boat. The price of such a product starts from about 300 rubles.

The method of fastening is determined by the material of the hatch:

For wood, ordinary stainless steel screws are used.
For a professional pipe with walls of moderate thickness, it is easier to use a metal screw with a drill. It is screwed into the hole drilled by its tip using a conventional screwdriver.

Insulation and vapor barrier

A wooden exit from the cellar requires multi-layer insulation with vapor and waterproofing.

A block is placed on the bottom side of the lyada inside the box, which will serve as a frame for the heat-insulating layer. It also fixes the layer of waterproofing material. Typically, ordinary polyethylene is used for this purpose.
Inside the block frame, a layer of insulation is laid - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The thickness of the insulation is usually 40-50 millimeters.
The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier.
Then the insulated frame is covered with a sheet of thin (4-5 mm) plywood on stainless steel screws. Of course, plywood also needs protection from dampness - antiseptic treatment and impregnation with drying oil.

Insulated wooden lyada.

The technology for creating a hidden floor hatch includes several stages: selection and acquisition of materials, preparation of tools, drawing up a drawing and the actual construction of the structure. The basic requirements for arranging a boat and the step-by-step progress of the work are described in the article.

Requirements for hidden hatches in the cellar

Having a basement in a country house or in a private house has a number of undeniable advantages. Utility room expands usable area and provides a warm, dry floor covering for the first floor. The disadvantage of a cellar is the increase in construction costs. Sometimes the cost of building a basement reaches ¼ of the total estimate for the construction of the entire house. Some people try to save money by doing some of the work themselves.

Arranging a basement involves organizing a separate or built-in entrance. This can be an ordinary door or a lyada (a hatch in a field). If the basement is located in a residential building, then a hidden hatch is placed. To do the work yourself, you need to think through everything in advance, taking into account the basic requirements for hidden structures of this type.

The dimensions of the hatch are selected in accordance with the room and the main purpose of the cellar. Minimum dimensions – 75*75 cm.
It is better to choose the location of the lyad not next to the wall. The door should swing open without any difficulty. It is important that the open lid does not touch objects on the floor or furniture.
The cellar must be equipped with a simple and convenient opening mechanism.
If the door weighs more than 10 kg, it is advisable to equip the hatch with an electric drive.
The dimensions of the hatch must fully correspond to the basement shaft, and the joints must be sealed.
Care should be taken to ensure reliable supports around the perimeter of the hatch. The lid will be stepped on many times throughout the day and must be able to support the weight of everyone in the household.
It is advisable to equip the floor hatch with a smooth opening/closing system (gas lift). If there are animals and children in the house, then you will need a locking device that limits access to the basement.
The cover material is selected in accordance with the existing or proposed floor finish. For example, if a wood board or laminate is laid, then the cover is mounted from wood.

Options for finished products: features of operation and installation

It’s easier to choose a ready-made hatch design and install it yourself. Models available on the market different sizes and types. You will be able to find an option that is optimally suited for laminate, tile or linoleum. Depending on the method of opening the door to the basement, there are three types:

If the floor is tiled, laminate or other finishing material, then to create a hidden hatch into the basement with your own hands you need to choose fillable aluminum or steel structures. This specimen is a shallow rectangular container. After installation, the frame is filled with concrete mortar, and after complete drying, the surface is lined.

Important! A concrete hatch has significant weight, so it requires the use of massive hinges and durable fasteners. A well-designed steel structure can withstand weights in excess of 1 ton.

Choosing materials for making a hidden hatch with your own hands

To implement the project, you can use wood or metal. In this matter, it is important to maintain a reasonable balance between the weight of the structure and its strength. When creating a wooden hatch, boards 2.5 mm thick are often used. The top finishing of the lid is made with 1 cm plywood. Using transverse slats, the boards are connected to each other, forming a solid sheet. To extend its service life, a wooden door must be treated with drying oil.

The construction of a durable metal hatch is made from steel sheets 3-4 mm thick. Polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene foam is used as insulation.

An important aspect of convenient use of a cellar hatch is the correctly selected handle and hinges. An ordinary door handle will not be suitable for these purposes, as it will rise above the floor level and cause inconvenience when walking. It is better to use folding handles that can be easily lowered or raised. If there are young children in the house, then it is advisable to install removable models. Some craftsmen often cut out recesses in wooden hatches and place secret handles in them.

When making hinged lids, you will need hinges. These can be ordinary models door hinges or from the hood of a car. When installing hinges for hidden hatches with your own hands, you need to take into account some nuances:

It is better to use products with springs - this will ensure easier opening of heavy lids;
hinges from the car fix the hatch in the open position, which eliminates the possibility of the cellar door slamming.

Important! For a hidden hatch you need to use mortise hinges. If mounted models If the top is covered with laminate or tiles, then such a structure cannot be repaired later.

Conventional hinges are not suitable for aluminum or steel lids. Here it is necessary to use gas shock absorbers.

Creating a hidden metal structure

To make metal hidden inspection hatches with your own hands you will need following materials and tools:

sheet metal(steel) thickness 3-4 mm and 1 mm;
metal corner – 4-5 cm;
Door hinges;
thermal insulation material;
rubber compressor;
primer for metal processing;
Bulgarian;
welding machine, electrodes;
sander;
screwdriver;
electric drill;
self-tapping screws

The assembly diagram of the metal hatch is presented below.

General order of work:

Preparation and insulation of the hatch:
- cut from steel 3-4 mm required sheet, for example 75*75 cm;
- Weld a corner on the inside along the perimeter of the sheet;
- weld the stiffeners, dividing the hatch area into 4 sectors;
- clean weld seams;
- place insulation between the jumpers;
- Place thin sheet steel on the back of the cover and secure it to the corners with self-tapping screws.
Installation of the cellar opening frame:
- cut the steel angle according to the dimensions of the hatch opening;
- weld a quadrangular frame from the corners;
- secure the frame to the concrete with anchors;
- Finish the end of the frame with a sealant.
Door fastening:
- weld reinforced hinges to the metal frame;
- Weld the counter elements to the lid;
- install gas closers;
- fix the lid;
- coat steel parts with drying oil.

Metal floor hatch in the garage: video.

How to make a hidden hatch under tiles with your own hands

Drawing development

It is necessary to develop a sketch of the future design in advance. The hidden floor hatch (hand drawing) should schematically display the main parameters of the structure:

box dimensions (length, width);
thickness of the opening and the frame used;
placement of hinges on the lid and hatch opening.

DIY hidden hatch under tiles: drawings

Installation of floor screed

The first step is to ensure the levelness of the floor in which the hidden hatch will be placed. The entire alignment process is carried out in several stages:

Determine the level of the finished floor covering. It is necessary to provide for the thickness of the tiles (about 8 mm) and the adhesive (4 mm).
Prepare cement mortar and set up beacon profiles.
Bead the opening, leaving about 10 cm around the perimeter as support for the hatch cover.
Make a floor screed according to standard technology.

Tiling

After complete hardening concrete mortar, you need to try on the hatch by placing it against the opening. At this stage, it is advisable to pre-lay out the tiles. Tiling begins from the corner of the wall, located in the most visible place. Trimming and laying tile material when finishing a niche is carried out only after the final installation of the hatch frame.

Before installing the frame, the location of the hatch should look something like this.

Finishing the frame and slopes

The design of the ends of the opening is carried out in the following order:

Place the frame on the niche and level it.
Fill the gaps between the screed and the metal frame cement mortar(it is necessary to use the composition of the M500 brand).
Allow the solution to harden completely.
Trim the tiles and tile the remaining area around the opening.
Align the slopes of the niche - install beacons and “pull it out” with cement mortar.
Tile the slopes using SM-11 glue.
Before the adhesive dries, it is better to fix the tiles with ordinary tape.
Install demarcating crosses.

Cover installation

To make a hidden hatch under the tiles with your own hands, use a galvanized steel body with couplings for installing handles. IN metal box the reinforcement is laid, the frame is filled with concrete, and tiles are laid on top flush with the ends of the lid.

The final finishing involves grouting the tile joints and installing removable handles.

DIY hidden hatch under tiles: video.

Electric inspection hatch: installation features

To make lifting the heavy hatch door easier and protecting the basement from thieves, the hatch can be equipped with an automatic system. Most easy way– construction of a folding mechanism. To make it you need to prepare:

electric motor;
duralumin pipe;
steel sheet;
steel rods;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
toggle switch (switch) 3 positions;
presence of a current source.

The mechanism is mounted on a ready-made hinged lid; the opening angle of the hatch will be less than 90°. The operating principle is as follows: the electric motor receives a signal from remote control, driving the shaft. The rod rises 80° and the device fixes the hatch in the open position. The second toggle switch gives an impulse through the control panel and starts reverse thrust on the motor. The rod lowers and pulls the door behind it.

Hidden hatch – practical option arrangement of the basement entrance. The lid and lifting mechanism must be safe and easy to use. You can create a hatch yourself, without the use of expensive equipment or the help of professionals.

strport.ru

Almost every owner of his own home sets up a cellar in his home - a place where he can store canned goods, products from the garden, and seasonal items. In a properly equipped cellar, due to its proximity to the ground, it always preserves low temperature and a certain humidity. The entrance to the cellar, located on the floor, often leads from the kitchen or hallway of the house.

DIY cellar hatch

You need to know how to properly make an entrance hatch into the “bins” in order to avoid heat loss and not disturb the interior of the floor of the room. It is also important to consider a system of stoppers or shock absorbers that will prevent spontaneous closing of the hatch at the moment when a person descends into the cellar.

A good hatch will not slam shut over your head thanks to shock absorbers

Important points

If the construction of a house is in full swing and the location of the hatch to the basement or cellar is still at the development stage, it is worth considering the following nuances.

The entrance should be located in a convenient place, not next to a wall. This is necessary so that the hatch opens without any interference.
If you plan to make the entrance to the cellar in the kitchen, it is important to place the entrance where there will be no furniture, for example, a dining table. It is important that the raised lid does not touch the kitchen unit or other things.
The design of the hatch cover must be reinforced and withstand the weight of a person, if, for example, the entrance to the cellar will be from the corridor.
Dimensions of the entrance to the cellar. They must be “tailored” to the dimensions of the owners. This is necessary in order to easily go down to the basement and get the necessary things and products out of it.

Wooden cellar hatch

Wooden cellar hatch

A wooden hatch is made if a wooden plank. This will visually hide the entrance to the underground and lighten the weight of the entire structure.

To make a wooden hatch, the following tools are required.

Saw.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Brush.

You also need to prepare the necessary materials.

Boards for the top flooring.
Laths for sheathing.
Beams for supports
Plywood.
Drying oil.
Nails.
Screws.
Chalk or pencil.
Insulation.
Hinges and gas shock absorber.
Pen.

How to make a cellar hatch

If the hole into the cellar measures 80 by 80 cm, then the lid should be made a little smaller so that it fits freely to the floor. The gaps between the floor and the hatch cover should be no more than 4-5 mm.

The height of the hatch must match the dimensions of the final and rough coating. For this purpose, the hatch is made multi-layered. The first layer is plywood, onto which slats are laid in the form of sheathing. Insulation (second layer) is placed between these slats to prevent drafts. A board is attached to the top of the slats ( finishing layer).

Hatch in the floor

It is advisable to select a material that matches the width and thickness of the board laid on the floor. It is also a good idea to nail the top boards of the hatch parallel to the floorboard so that the cover does not stand out too much on the floor.

Lid opening mechanism floor hatch

The design of such an insulated wooden hatch is not too heavy; it can be equipped with ordinary hinges attached to the basement side. But experts recommend equipping the hatch with gas closers, which simplify lifting the structure.

Hatch handle

A special handle is attached to the front surface of the hatch, which is placed on the floor and does not protrude.

Video - Hatch to a cellar made of wood with closers

Metal hatch to the cellar

Metal structures are more reliable and stronger than wooden hatches. But making such a lid is much more difficult.

To make a metal hatch you will need the following tools.

Angle grinder with metal cutting disc.
Welding machine.
Screwdriver.
Roulette.

You should also stock up on materials.

Sheet steel, thickness 3 mm and 1 mm.
Steel corner 3-4 mm.
Loops.
Gas closer.
Anchors
Foam or other insulation material.
Rubber gaskets.
Primer.

To make a lid, you need to cut a sheet of steel to the required size, for example, 80 by 80 cm. Experts recommend using material at least 3 mm thick.

A corner is welded onto the steel around the perimeter from the inside. It is also recommended to weld stiffeners from the same corner, between which to place insulation. It turns out that the area of the hatch cover is divided into 4 sectors. It is advisable to carry out all welding work carefully; it is advisable to clean the seams.

The insulation should not be wider than the corner. Thin sheet steel or tin is overlapped over the insulating material, bent using blows with a mallet and secured to the corners with self-tapping screws.

The hatch is ready.

Hatch to the cellar

The next stage is the installation of the cellar entrance frame. To do this, the steel angle is cut into fragments corresponding to the size of the hatch opening. The corners are welded together and attached to the concrete using anchors. One of the sides of the frame is a support for the metal hatch. A seal is attached to the protruding edge of the frame, which will reduce heat loss and protect the hatch from friction and impacts against the edges of the frame.

The lid is attached to the metal frame using special reinforced hinges that support the weight of the structure. To make the hatch easy to open, it is recommended to equip it with gas closers. It is recommended to treat all metal steel parts of the hatch structure with drying oil to avoid corrosion.

If the hatch is installed during the construction of the house, then you can hide the entrance to the underground when finishing the floor.

Video - Metal hatch laminate floor

Hatch to the cellar under the tiles

Hatch to the cellar

Tiles are an ideal material for the kitchen. Many housewives prefer this type of floor finishing, especially since it is not too difficult to decorate a basement hatch in the same style as the floor covering.

This requires the following materials:

steel corner;
steel sheet 3 mm minimum;
reinforcement with a cross section of 3-4 mm;
solution;
tile.

The tools needed are the same as when making a regular metal hatch.

Hatch to the cellar under the tiles

Unlike a regular metal hatch, the tile cover is made slightly differently. A blank corresponding to the size of the hatch is cut out of sheet steel. This will be the bottom. A corner is welded along the perimeter of the workpiece, forming the sides. Reinforcement is welded inside the sides to form cells.

The frame for the entrance to the cellar is welded from steel corners and recessed into concrete to the width of the lid. The structure is connected using reinforced hinges. For safety, you can equip the lid with a gas shock absorber.

Once the structure is ready, you can start decorating it. The mortar on which the tiles will be laid is mixed. The solution is poured into the manhole cover, hiding the reinforcing mesh. Tiles are laid on top.

It is important to lay the material on the hatch so that its seams match the tiles laid on the floor.

Inspection hatches for invisible tiles

Video - DIY cellar hatch (metal)

svoimi-rykami.ru

Making a hatch into the basement of a house with your own hands

Everyone would like to have a basement under the floor in their home. I can talk about the advantages for a long time. Firstly, this is additional room, having virtually constant temperature and humidity throughout the year, regardless of the season. Allowing you to use it as a vegetable storage facility, a workshop warehouse, etc.

And in this regard, it is important to equip the entrance to the basement with an aesthetic and reliable hatch.

Hatch requirements

1. Ease of opening and closing; 2. Presentable appearance;

3. Reliability.

Ease of opening

It is very important that when opening the hatch opens without excessive effort, and when closing the hatch cover does not fall with all its might, trying to knock off any limb, but closes smoothly. Reliable fixation of the hatch cover is also equally important. The possibility of being closed, or even worse, getting hit on the head with a lid, will not make anyone happy.

Presentable appearance

An aesthetic and presentable appearance is the most important requirement. No one wants to spoil the look of their hallway or kitchen. Hence the desire to disguise it or, in extreme cases, make it outwardly attractive.

Reliability

The most important requirement. It should mostly be classified as accessories. Reliable hinges, shock absorbers, and shut-off valves will determine the reliability and durability of the structure.

There are several types of hatches

1.
The simplest and cheap option- This is a removable hatch. The cover is made in the form individual element: it simply rises and is placed near the opening. 2. A swing door is made like a door only in the floor. It has two or more loops on one side and a handle and lock on the other. 3. Sliding: this type is rarely used indoors due to the need to install special guides. The principle of operation of such a hatch is to move the cover along the guides.

Most often, wood or metal (steel, less often aluminum) is used to make hatches, or a combination. Different types of lids are used for different coatings. For example, for covering with tiles, so-called self-leveling covers are used. This is a lid in the form of a box into which the screed is poured and the tiles are glued on top. You can also use this cover
lay laminate. It turns out to be a hidden hatch - it is very difficult to see it.

The disadvantage of this design is the mass of the hatch, which can reach tens of kilograms. To make it easier, a gas shock absorber for opening and closing is installed on such a hatch. Reliable fasteners, massive hinges and solid fastening into the opening are required, which leads to higher costs.

The advantages include the reliability and solidity of the design. Due to its mass, it does not wobble or squeak when walking on it. A thorough fastening into the opening is also required. The mechanism for fixing the lid in this design is simply vital. The handle is usually made removable; you can use a regular eye bolt. Various sealing materials are used for sealing.

Making a basement hatch with your own hands

You can also make a basement hatch with your own hands, for example, a wooden one. For the frame, bars 100 x 50 mm or thicker are used, depending on the load. The lid is made from 30-40 mm boards, on top of the boards GVL is glued on top of which it is laid flooring. If it is necessary to install a hidden hatch, it must be lowered to the thickness of the floor covering. For this you will need mortise hinges. You can also make a hatch out of metal with your own hands.

This requires skills in working with an angle grinder and a welding machine.

Materials you will need:

Necessary equipment:

Welding machine
Bulgarian
Screwdriver or electric drill
Roulette

First, a frame is assembled from corners or square pipe after which they make a lid. The lid can be made of either metal or wood. If the structure turns out to be heavy, then the installation of gas shock absorbers is necessary. For those who want to restrict access to the basement of strangers, we recommend installing an electric drive. The electric drive is activated by sending a signal to open and close from the remote control.

domsdelat.ru

Do-it-yourself hatch to the basement: designs with electric drive, the usual version and products with a retractable mechanism

There are two main design options for entering the basement - a door and a hatch. Each of them is suitable for a specific room. If we are talking about a basement, the entrance to which is located inside the house, most owners prefer a hatch.

Making it yourself is easy and quite quick.

In the photo there is a steel cover in basement

Why do we need a basement under the house?

Before we begin installing it, let's decide for ourselves whether a basement is really needed in the house. Will he be able to solve the tasks assigned to him and will he not be a heavy burden for us?

A basement is a room whose floor is below ground level. construction site more than half the height of its walls. Otherwise it will be the ground floor.

What affects the structure of the basement

Hydrogeological conditions;
Soil type. For example, excavation work on rocky soil will be very expensive, since it is impossible to do without special equipment;
Level groundwater. When this indicator exceeds the depth of the foundation, you will have to purchase expensive waterproofing.

Inconspicuous hatch in the basement under the tiles with your own hands

Advantages

Creates additional useful space in the house, which can be used for storing things, conservation and food. Often a workshop or room for engineering communications, wine cellar and others.
Having arranged a basement under the main house, you no longer need to think about building an additional utility room on the territory, thereby keeping such expensive square meters plot.
The basement allows you to always have a warm and dry floor on the first floor.
The owners receive additional comfort, since they do not need to run to the annex for groceries in bad weather; they can simply go downstairs and take everything they need.

Flaws

The only thing that can influence the decision to install a basement is its price. It can reach a quarter of all costs for a private house, which is a lot. This is due to expensive land work, for which you will have to hire special equipment.

You can do everything yourself, but it will require a lot of effort and time. In addition, careful arrangement of the room will be required, which includes waterproofing, interior decoration and placement of the necessary shelves.

Basement entrance cover

This element not only closes the entrance, but is also part of the floor, harmoniously combining with the surrounding surfaces. In addition, it should open easily and close tightly without effort. Below we will talk about how to make a hatch into the basement yourself in different ways. (See also the article Features of the stairs to the basement.)

Hatch diagram

Prepare materials and tools:

sheet steel - thickness at least 3-5 mm, otherwise it may collapse;
metal corner;
tin;
welding machine;
dense rubber;
expanded polystyrene;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
roulette

The hatch cover to the basement must be made strictly to the size of the shaft so that it fits exactly end-to-end when closing. To do this, use a rubber seal, which will protect the basement from air entering it, which can lead to an increase in temperature.
It can be covered on top with the floor covering used in the room, or left as is, after being painted with paint to protect it from rust. Weld a corner around the perimeter to the bottom of the steel plate, providing additional rigidity to the structure.

Tip: Leave room for free movement so that the lid fits tightly into place.

Lay insulation on the inside of the lid. For this, use polystyrene foam, which you cut so that it fits flush against the inside of the corner.
Cover the lid with a sheet of tin, bend it at the sides and secure it with self-tapping screws.
Attach the basement hatch to the external hinges. There are also electric version mechanism for closing and opening the lid.

Cover on gas struts

Electric drive

Unlike the previous option, when the hatch can be opened by anyone, this design turns the basement into a safe. Unwanted visitors will not be able to get there no matter what they want. The design depends on how the do-it-yourself basement hatch drawings are drawn up, the skill of the contractor and the financial capabilities of the customer.

Simple electric drive for a basement cover

Regular option

Prepare:

electric motor;
duralumin pipes;
sheet steel;
grinder with a circle for cutting metal;
welding machine;
electrical cable;
three-position toggle switch;
current source.

This option is considered the simplest, therefore it is used not for special protection of the cellar, but to simplify interaction with the hatch. Install the mechanism directly on the hinged lid.

Tip: never install the hatch at 90°, leave room for free reverse movement.

The operation of the design is quite simple - you send a signal to the electric motor from the remote control, it begins to rotate and set the mechanism in motion. The lid rises upward thanks to the rod to an angle of 80°, where it is stopped automatically.

You can close the hatch by pressing the second toggle switch on the remote control, which turns on the reverse rotation of the electric motor shaft and returns the rod to its place. You can hide the moving elements behind light duralumin pipes or steel boxes. Even a beginner can assemble the mechanism quite quickly.

Retractable mechanism

The instructions below will tell you the basic steps. By doing this you can save on materials.

Prepare:

sheet steel 5 mm thick;
metal rollers with rubber knurling;
steel rods;
two electric motors;
three-position toggle switch;
electrical cable;
current source.

This design is more complex than the previous version, but it will reliably protect the cellar from outside interference. The entire system, together with the hatch, is placed under the floor, but the movable hatch must occupy an area larger than the entrance to the basement shaft. (See also the article How to make a basement staircase with your own hands.)

Basement cover drawing

Fasten the steel sheet to metal rollers, which will be driven by electric motors, since one will not be able to complete the task.

There are no hinges on the horizontal movement cover and it cannot be opened by pressing hands, since most electric motors have a built-in freewheel lock.

Conclusion

Using a basement hatch makes it easier to access and can be used longer than a door. The use of electric motors makes it possible to make the cellar inaccessible to unauthorized persons. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

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Page 2

It is rare to find a private house structure that does not have a cellar. It is in the cellars that a variety of products are stored, which the owners grew on their own land, and are happy to treat their neighbors in cold weather.

Housewives also store in the cellars pickles and other baked goods made with their own hands, which are the most important delicacy on the table in winter. But the presence of a cellar also implies the presence of a hatch leading into it. If you do not want to spend extra money, you will have to make a cellar hatch with your own hands.

In such a cellar everything is always at hand

Preparatory activities

Before you begin, you should pay attention to the following points:

Choose the best location for the hatch and decide on its size. The parameters of the hatch to the basement must correspond to the build of the owners of the house. In any case, you should not make the hatch smaller than 750/750 mm, because otherwise it will be quite difficult to get out of the cellar with food.
Make sure there are supports on which your new hatch will rest. Ideally, there should be four such supports.
Also take into account such a parameter as the weight of the product. Not all household members will be able to open a heavy manhole cover. The strength of the woman or child may not be enough to hold her.

In the photo there is a hatch to the wine cellar

Note! A light weight the lid should not in any way affect its strength.

In order to build a lid that is both strong and light, you should use materials such as:

A layer of wood at least 2.5 cm thick.
plywood sheet at least 1 cm thick.

Tip: For greater reliability of the structure, you should thoroughly soak all the boards with drying oil.

Hatch construction

The price of a basement hatch becomes much lower if you build it yourself.

Materials and tools

In order to build a cellar hatch with your own hands you will need:

Hammer;
Nails;
Saw;
Ruler or tape measure;
Screwdriver;
Screws;
Pencil;
Drying oil;
Plywood;
Reiki;
Boards.

Scheme of the hatch to the cellar

To make the lid look more pleasant from the outside, cover it with linoleum. Before fixing the linoleum, be sure to let it rest well. The linoleum needs to be secured around the perimeter of the entire hatch cover using aluminum corners. This option for external finishing of the lid is quite practical and reliable.

Pen

An important element of the hatch design is the handle, which should provide ease of opening and closing the lid. If you screw an ordinary doorknob to the basement lid, even if it is very beautiful, it will cause inconvenience. Your household members will, without a doubt, constantly trip over the handle sticking out of the floor.

In the photo - a manhole cover with a recessed handle

There are very suitable designs called flip handles. At correct installation such a handle, as the instructions say, it will not interfere at all. And if necessary, it will be easy to raise and lower.

For convenience, you can provide a removable handle. This design is especially suitable for families with small children. After all, a basement is far from a place for games.

Loops

If you want the hatch cover leading to the basement to not only be removed, but to be able to open and close, then you should provide hinges. Absolutely any hinges can be used; even old hinges from the hood of a Soviet car will be a completely suitable material.

When installing your sunroof cover on car hinges, you will have the following benefits:

Easy opening. Car hinges are equipped with springs, which makes it easy to open even heavy lids.
Fixed position. The lid will remain open until you close it yourself. This eliminates the possibility of the hatch slamming shut under its own weight.

Furniture hinges for cellar hatch

Installation of such hinges is carried out only when the springs are removed. To begin with, the hinges are installed from the bottom. After installation, the hatch opens completely and the hinges automatically fall into place.

Installation of the cellar cover

Installation of the cellar cover is carried out as follows:

We make markings. To do this, place the finished hatch shell on the floor in in the right place and circle it with a marker;
Using a puncher, we make a hole in the ceiling 3 cm smaller than the markings made on the ceiling;
Using a hammer drill, we make a neat concrete protrusion so that the cover frame fits flush into the ceiling;
If the hatch design provides for the installation of anchors, we install the anchors;
We seal the gaps between the frame and the ceiling with cement mortar from the inside of the cellar and from the outside.

Note! If the hatch is installed after the floor covering has been laid, it should be disassembled around the planned opening.

Sealing and insulating the cellar

In order to seal the hatch and insulate it from noise and moisture, you will need insulation. As insulation of this kind, you can use ordinary door insulation, the price of which is low. But ordinary felt tape may also be suitable.

In any case, the use of insulation can save you from such unpleasant moments as:

How to choose an electric heated floor for tiles