How to install drainage in your home. Proper installation of sewerage in a private house with your own hands. Installation of the riser and further wiring

If your a private house is located far from the centralized sewerage system, then you need to arrange it yourself. To do this, you can hire specialists, or you can lay a sewer system in a private house with your own hands.

Any sewer system has two parts: internal and external. The first is carried out directly on the premises, and the second is performed outside the house.

Internal system diagram

How to lay a sewer system in a private house correctly and without additional costs? Before starting any work on laying sewerage in a private house, it is necessary to consider the layout and depth of the pipes.

Important! A carefully executed scheme guarantees the purchase of the required amount of materials and saves time on sewer installation.

In order to correctly draw up a diagram, you need to think about the location of each plumbing fixture.

Next, a house construction plan is drawn, and first the location of the vertical riser is marked on it, then the position of each plumbing fixture. Next, draw the location of the horizontal pipeline, indicating the diameter of the pipe, its length, as well as the location of the fittings, indicating their type.

To complete the diagram more accurately, better drawing Perform on squared paper or graph paper. To take accurate measurements, use a tape measure.

Attention! When designing an internal system, it is advisable to place plumbing fixtures close to each other. This will allow them to be connected to one riser, and the wastewater to be discharged into one septic tank.

If the system is installed in two or more storey building It is recommended to arrange bathrooms on top of each other. This will also save on the construction of septic tanks.

Once you have completed the diagram, you can begin purchasing materials.

Materials for sewerage installations

It is best to begin installation of the system after purchasing all the necessary materials.

To work you will need:

  • pipes of various diameters;
  • fittings and flanges equipped with elastic seals.

When organizing pipe turns in the corners of the room, they are cut into sections that are connected to each other through oblique tees or cross fittings. Such elements must be used to ensure that the rotation is performed at an angle of no more than 45°. This will allow wastewater to move freely through the pipeline.

It is also necessary to organize inspections at pipe bends. These elements also apply to fittings.

Sewer pipes

For laying sewerage in a private house, cast iron, as well as polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride pipes are used.

Comparison table of pipes made from different materials

MaterialApplication areaAdvantagesFlaws
Cast ironCan be used for both types of sewer systemsStrong, durable, withstand heavy loadsThey are heavy, expensive, rust during use, and are more likely to cause congestion
PVCApplicable to device external system Durable, reliable, have a long service life, lighter and cheaper than cast iron, easy to cut, do not require welding for connectionNot designed to carry high-temperature water, bends poorly, and should not be used for other purposes
PPDesigned for installation of internal systemsMore flexible compared to PVC or cast iron, low cost, lightweight, can withstand high temperature water, connection does not require weldingLess durable compared to other types, not used for other purposes

Currently, the materials mainly used are PP or PVC.

When installing sewerage systems, the following types of pipes are used:

  • 40-50 mm – in pipelines from the bath, shower, sink, bidet and sink;
  • 100-110 mm – for installing risers;
  • 65-75 mm – for branches from the riser;
  • 100 mm – for organizing the toilet flush.

Sewer pipes vary in color: gray– for installation of the internal system, orange – external.

You can also purchase on the building materials market PVC materials increased strength. They are two-layer corrugated products; they are used for installation in multi-story buildings.

After purchasing materials, you can proceed directly to installation.

Attention! To avoid problems with the interface between external and internal structures when laying the sewer system, it is recommended to start work with the release device.

How to lay out the issue

To interface the internal and external systems, an outlet is made, which is located at the border of both parts. A hole is made in the foundation (or it is made when pouring the foundation) below the freezing zone of the soil. This level is determined for each region separately.

The outlet is organized using a piece of large diameter pipe (up to 160 mm) or a sleeve (2), which is inserted into the hole in the foundation. The sleeve should protrude beyond the foundation by at least 15 cm. Then the connected sewer pipe is passed into it. The outlet is located up to the inspection well (1) and has a length of no more than 3 m. The outlet is connected to the riser using bends (3). An inspection is organized on the riser at a height of 1 m (4).

Since there must be a gap between the sleeve and the terminal, it is recommended to put a plastic “cocoon” on the sleeve. Now you can begin installing the internal sewerage system.

Methods for installing internal piping

How to lay sewer pipes in a private house? There are two ways: open and closed.

Laying sewer pipes open method provides for their installation to walls or floors.

In the second option, the structure is placed under the floor. If the second option is chosen, then hidden sewer and water supply wiring is usually performed.

Advantages of the first installation method:

  • simplicity and cleanliness of installation;
  • free access to structural elements for maintenance and repair work;
  • you can quickly lay sewer pipes.

However, with this method, all elements of the sewer system will be visible, and they will need to be hidden using boxes.

With the second method, the elements are hidden under the floors. Therefore, access to them is difficult, and installation will be more expensive and time-consuming.

How to properly lay a sewer

A gravity-flow design is used indoors, so sewer pipes must be laid with a slope. Since the diameter of the pipes of the internal system is only 40-50 mm, the slope should be 3 cm per 1 linear meter. It is not recommended to lay pipes with a slope of more than 15 cm per 1 linear meter, since in this case the water will move at high speed and will not have time to carry away heavy particles of dirt. If this happens, dirt will be deposited on inner surface sewers, and congestion will occur.

In a two or more storey building, all plumbing fixtures are connected to the riser. The length of the riser is calculated so that the upper part protrudes above the roof of the house by at least 50 cm. This is necessary so that air can freely enter the riser when draining water and prevent the destruction of the water seal.

A water seal is a water plug that is located at the bottom of a plumbing fixture and prevents putrefactive odor from entering the room from the sewer.

In addition, an inspection must be arranged at a height of at least 1 m from the floor in the riser.

Installation procedure:

  1. Install the riser;
  2. Bring and connect the supply from the toilet to the riser;
  3. Mount a horizontal pipeline and connect it to the riser;
  4. Connect siphons to plumbing and pipelines;
  5. The toilet must have an individual connection system to the riser.

When installing a horizontal pipeline, it is necessary to connect plastic pipes through fittings.

The procedure for connecting plastic pipes:

  1. Cut into sections of a certain length (determined according to the diagram). Cutting is done with special scissors or a hacksaw;
  2. Clean the cuts from shavings and dirt. In addition, the edges can be additionally lubricated;
  3. Unscrew the union nut of the fitting slightly (several turns);
  4. Insert the pipe into the fitting;
  5. Tighten the union nut.

External sewage system

An external individual drainage system for private housing construction consists of a pipeline and a septic tank.

Let's consider the procedure for doing external sewerage in a private house with your own hands. After developing the diagram, we determine the depth of the pipeline.

The depth of the trench depends on the region, soil characteristics, etc. The main thing is that winter time freezing of drains was excluded. Therefore, to lay a pipeline, it is better to dig a trench with a depth below the freezing level of the soil. If it is not possible to dig a trench of the required depth, then the pipeline can be insulated at the installation stage.

It is recommended that when installing an external system, the sewer pipe should be straight and without unnecessary bends, since a gravity drainage structure is usually used. If the piping system leading to the septic tank has bends, the flow rate of the wastewater will decrease and congestion may form.

How to lay external piping

  1. Choose the right equipment that is designed for this;
  2. Install a septic tank. Distance from cesspool without a bottom to other structures is regulated by SNiP 2.04.02-84 and SNiP 2.04.03-85. The distance from a residential building is at least 5 m, to a neighboring residential building is at least 10 m, etc.;

In contact with

It is unthinkable to consider water supply to a residential property without installing a wastewater disposal system. Therefore, even before construction, you need to decide where and how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, and how to arrange the external pipeline.

We will tell you how to lay sewer pipes within the building and around the site. We will show you how to assemble the system and fasten its components. The article we propose provides installation rules and building codes, the technology for performing internal wiring is described.

There can be no talk of construction without preliminary preparation of a wastewater drainage system. A carefully thought-out, drawn up scheme will allow rational use of capital investments.

In addition, thanks to the preliminary drawing up of the building's sewerage diagram, more opportunities open up for achieving the required efficiency of the system.

Example wiring diagram: mk – washing; ks – riser; un – toilet (bidet); mind is the sink of the washbasin; vn - bath, 50 and 110 - diameters of pipelines of horizontal lines and riser lines; 1 – siphon with cleaning; 2 – bath siphon with overflow; 3 – square; 4 – tee; 5 – cross; 6 – adapter

The main criteria for drawing up a diagram are usually considered to be:

  • the number of people on the territory of a residential property;
  • proposed technology for processing (purification) of sewage waste;
  • wiring of external wastewater disposal lines;
  • layout of internal collection and drainage lines.

Having decided on the main points of construction, they calculate the number of system components, including the footage of sewer pipes, and draw up a sketch of the project.

An example of drawing up a sketch of a home sewer system for two adjacent units: 1 – sink; 2 – toilet; 3 – washbasin; 4 – bath; 5 – plumbing pipeline. The sketch also marks the distances between the components (a, b, c, d)

Pipe layout for a one-story house

Considering the availability of lightweight and a complete set of installation fittings on the market, it is quite affordable to build a sewerage system in a private house yourself. However, without consulting specialists and referring to established standards, it is not easy to build a high-quality sewer system.

Scheme of a sewer network with output to a septic tank: 1 – riser; general disposal of waste products; 3 – compensating air outlet; 4 – septic tank; 5 – treated wastewater; 6 – additional final filtration

The classic sewer scheme in general contains:

  • sewer riser;
  • pipes connecting the internal components of the system;
  • external pipeline discharging general waste;
  • receiver system.

According to existing standards for the layout of a one-story building, the areas closest to the external point of drainage are the plumbing fixtures of the kitchen and sanitary unit.

The wall separating these two rooms of the house is considered the installation site for the riser pipeline. The area of ​​the lower point of the riser pipe is diverted to the external main, and the upper point is diverted to the roof.

Part of the general wiring in a private house - an example of the practical implementation of building an internal horizontal network based on popular polypropylene pipes and other components

The most remote plumbing fixture in the utility area is connected to the riser by a pipeline of smaller diameter and taking into account a slope towards the riser of 1.5-2º. The formation rules are given in the article we recommend.

The laid line is used to connect other plumbing fixtures in the utility and technical area. The closest appliance to the riser is traditionally the toilet.

Thus, a gravity flow diagram of a one-story private building is created. However, not in every case of installation of a plumbing network it is possible to organize a gravity circuit. Then the problem is solved by introducing additional equipment into the circuit - a pump.

Pipeline in a 2-3-story building

The structure of a private house on two or three floors is characterized by the arrangement of several economic and technical zones. Moreover, the arrangement of such zones is provided for on each of the existing floors. Accordingly, in such conditions it seems like a somewhat more complicated schematic option compared to the first one - a one-story house.

Classic wiring for buildings with two or more floors: 1- centralized collector; 2 – inspection well; 3 – riser; 4, 5 – revisions; 6 – check valve; 7 – forced movement of wastewater at the basement level

Standards and rules for the construction of multi-storey buildings regulate the construction of premises of the same type in terms of functionality at a single vertical level. Therefore, the sewerage scheme in this case, for example, concerns toilet rooms, provides wiring for rooms located one above the other.

The riser pipe, intended for multi-storey buildings, is passed through all floors and brought to the roof level, taking into account an additional rise of 0.3 m or higher if the roof is not in use.

For the option with a used roof, this parameter is at least 1.5 m. For pitched roofs (a popular design for private houses), the riser outlet is made to a height of 0.5 m from the level of the roof ridge.

Also, the design of multi-storey buildings provides for the use of compensating elements at the points where the pipeline passes through the floors.

Accordingly, transitions through the ceilings are made waterproof and sound-absorbing, equipped with special fire-proof cuffs.

A practical example of securing polypropylene pipelines, including risers sewer system using special clamps. As you can see, the fastening necessarily involves the use of rubber pads

The riser pipe is fixed directly to the wall using metal clamps with rubber linings. Guidelines for choosing sewer pipes for internal wiring, we recommend reading useful information.

The fastening is carried out without tight tightening - overhead, to ensure natural free movement of the pipe vertically. The lower part of the riser is led through an outlet to the external sewer line.

What you need to know about pipe laying?

Traditionally, drainage lines from plumbing fixtures such as sinks, bathtubs, and utility sinks are made using pipelines with a diameter of 50 mm. Toilet discharge channels require a larger pipe diameter - 110 mm.

On modern stage Polypropylene pipes are traditionally used for the construction of internal sewer lines. However, depending on the specific project and the load (throughput) capabilities of the sewer network, they can be used different diameters linear pipelines and risers.

The table below shows the possible options.

In any case, the diameter of the riser pipe for the sewerage system of a private house is always assumed to be equal to or greater than the largest floor drain in diameter

Gravity pipelines of horizontal lines with a diameter of 40-50 mm are installed, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.03 m per 1 m of length.

Gravity pipelines with a diameter of 85 and 110 mm are laid, observing a uniform slope norm of 0.02 mm per 1 m of length. The maximum permissible slope angle is not more than 0.15 mm for the entire length of a separately installed sewer section.

The use of plumbing crosses and tees is a convenient method for laying pipelines. In addition, thanks to these circuit elements, cross-country ability is created with a lower drag coefficient

Direct connections between the outlet lines and the riser are made using tees and crosses at angles of 45º or 60º. Executing the scheme in this way allows you to avoid clogging of pipelines during operation.

The scheme and apartment necessarily provide for the introduction of revisions (cleaning) at points in the line where there is a high risk of blockages.

For a circuit in a private house, the location of such circuit elements is shown in the table below:

Sewerage construction procedure

Let us briefly consider the main stages of constructing a sewer pipeline in a private home. Even if you do not decide to carry out the work on your own, you will be able to control the hired specialists.

Stage #1 – installation of the yard network

The creation of a sewer system begins with the stage of constructing an external (yard) network. If the length of the yard network to the existing one is more than 12 meters, an additional inspection well is installed. At the same time, it is minimal permissible distance from the wall of the house to the inspection well - 3 - 5 m.

You will be introduced to the methods of constructing the outer part of the pipeline and the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground, which we highly recommend reading.

In the laying of external sewer lines they are now mainly used, which are attractive due to their light weight and excellent performance characteristics And affordable price. When laying a route above the seasonal freezing level, they are used to protect the lines from the formation of ice jams.

Often, owners of private buildings have to deal with the lack of a centralized sewerage network. In this case, an autonomous system for collecting and filtering wastewater is installed (). However, the principle of the “external internal network” connection remains the same.

One of the simplest and convenient solutions for private households - a sealed septic tank. True, its significant drawback lies in the rather high price, so not every home owner decides to pay for its purchase.

Stage #2 – construction of the house entry point

Next, you need to build an input unit directly in the structure of a private house (foundation, basement wall). The construction of the unit is carried out taking into account possible deformations, for example, due to subsidence of the structure.

The input unit and the external pipeline are reliably insulated.

Input device diagram (one of the possible): 1 – crumpled clay; 2 – cement-based mortar; 3 – resin strand; 4 – sleeve based on steel pipe

Stage #3 – installation of risers and bends

At the next stage, the installation of riser pipes of the internal network is carried out. It is recommended that these circuit components be assembled and pre-installed in assembled form without fastening or with partial fastening.

Full fastening is carried out after final assembly of the entire system. Having completed the installation of riser pipes, horizontal sewerage drain lines are built taking into account the required slopes.

The process of building horizontal internal drain lines involves laying sockets and fittings in the direction opposite the flow of wastewater.

Stage #4 - connecting plumbing

At the final stage, each device is connected to the corresponding outlet through a siphon pipe.

Additionally, it is worth noting: provided the building height is less than 10 meters, the internal sewer system can be built on the basis of free-flow pipes. At higher altitudes, pressure pipes are used.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Below is a video demonstration of the practice of laying out and laying a pipeline network, taking into account the construction of a private house. Full cycle installation, including testing the system in the simplest ways.

Knowing the procedure for arranging a system for draining wastewater from a house, you can try to build a sewer system yourself. True, at the stage of laying the pipeline from the outside, assistance will be required to bury the pipes in the ground.

If in doubt, it is better to contact a company with a good reputation and positive recommendations from your friends. Then the sewer system will be designed correctly and will serve your family for decades.

Please leave comments in the block below. Share useful information, photos and own experience received in the field of installation or repair of sewer pipelines. Ask questions about controversial, interesting or unclear points.

The installation of a sewer system in a private house begins with the layout and installation diagram. This allows you to arrange all the plumbing fixtures as conveniently as possible, make the correct slope, and accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work uninterruptedly, and if one of the elements breaks or becomes clogged, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article we will tell you how to correctly draw up plans for internal and external (external) sewerage for a private home or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Drawing up a diagram starts from the farthest plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor . All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and Supplies bathrooms on different tiers are located along the same vertical line.

The sewage system in the house consists of:

  • Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
  • Drains from all plumbing;
  • Pipes leading wastewater into the external sewer system;
  • Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
  • Clamps in walls that support pipes and give them direction and angle.
  • Central riser.

It is important that there is no transition in the house from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of floors of the building, the presence of a basement, the amount of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and connection to additional equipment(pumping station or separately for each device).

On the diagram All elements should be displayed to scale so that in the event of a planned repair or emergency, you can quickly understand the wiring and find the breakdown.

External line

External sewerage starts with the pipeline from the foundation. The wastewater is discharged to a septic tank, cesspool or filter structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside is also located inspection well and ventilation umbrella.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be installed near windows, with access to the yard or near smokers. Categorically it is prohibited to connect it to a regular ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for collecting drains, autonomous installations are used.

  1. cesspool. It is easy to organize on site and is the most cheap option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of wastewater. There is a possibility of dirt getting into groundwater and an unpleasant odor.
  2. Do-it-yourself septic tank made of brick filled with concrete or ready-made reinforced concrete stakes c. It performs its functions well, is durable and strong. The disadvantages include for a long time installation and significant construction costs.
  3. Industrial standalone installation . Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered due to the speed of construction, High Quality and long-term operation of equipment.
  4. Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. It features the highest degree of purification and high productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

You definitely need to decide on the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that Each resident of the house uses 200 liters of water per day. The wastewater in the septic tank settles for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the waste tank.

So, a family of 4 consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, you need to select a septic tank of exactly this volume. If desired, you can make a small reserve in case the tank is maximally loaded. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main fittings:

  • Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
  • Tees with a side section at 45 or 90 degrees.
  • Elbow for connecting pipes with different heights (RUB 450/piece).
  • Straight-line double-sided coupling with rubber cuffs in sockets (from 30 rubles).
  • Revision (60 rub.)
  • reduction of various parameters (from 40 rubles/piece)
  • Hood hood (from 50 RUR)

Before you begin to equip a sewer system, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the basic requirements put forward for it. As we will tell you in a special review.

Water can be not only beneficial, but also harmful to human body. What kind of coarse filter? would be better suited for a summer residence, find out from this.

Optimal slope and depth during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of installation. With a cross-section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid blockages and “greasy” sewage in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When installed on plot of land the same angle of inclination is maintained. The sleeve (a pipe with a larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to external sewerage, And located 30 cm above the soil freezing level.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable– you will have to make a very deep septic tank. If a constant slope is maintained, this will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost increases due to additional concrete rings and more durable (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or insulation with a heating cable can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross-section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

To organize a sewer system in a private house, pipes can be used cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

External (PVC)

Designed for external networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite their relative cheapness, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use for both external and hidden installation. For them, cold welding is recommended. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

  • Single or multi-layer.
  • Foam propylene protected aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
  • The connection is made by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the design and installation of an external system

Brief instructions on how to make local autonomous system sewerage in private country house(at the dacha) with your own hands, it looks like this:

  1. Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
  2. Formation of a sand cushion.
  3. Layout of all component elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
  4. Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewer. For greater reliability The fastening points are treated with silicone sealant.
  5. Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
  6. Backfill the trench, trying to compact sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding sudden loads at right angles. Thickness of sand backfill - not less than 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, shaped parts for external utility networks. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the area with an intermediate inspection well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer system for a private home, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house, do everything according to the diagram yourself and lay the pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be of better quality if follow several instructions:


When installing sewerage it is important to take into account every nuance: placement of plumbing fixtures, topography of the site, location of the intake manifold or septic tank, depth of pipe laying and angle of inclination.

Only with careful charting, careful planning and order By installing a sewerage system in a private house or country house with your own hands, you can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain waste well without creating additional problems in the house and on the property.

Sewerage in a private house, equipped according to the design plan and using modern building materials and technology - an affordable and safe process for upgrading your home.

Introduction

When constructing a private house, a network of drains is carried out at the design stage, along with other engineering communications. But even in an already built home it is possible to organize a comfortable bathroom. If there is or is not a possibility of connecting to a centralized sewerage system, the progress of work and the arrangement of proper communications are the same, only the organization of wastewater disposal will differ.

A sewer is a vertical riser and thinner pipes for the passage of wastewater from a sink or toilet into this riser, which then flows into wider horizontal pipes, and from them into the central sewer network or treatment facilities.

The arrangement of the drainage system depends on:

  • Permanent residence in the house.
  • Number of permanent residents.
  • Volume of water consumption per person per day.
  • Groundwater level.
  • The size of the land plot and the space for treatment facilities.
  • Soil structure and its type.
  • Climate of the region.

Conventionally, sewerage is classified into 2 types:

  • Accumulation systems– bottomless cesspool, sealed waste container.
  • Treatment plants– a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil purification, a 2-chamber septic tank with natural purification, a 2-3 chamber septic tank with a filter field, a septic tank with a biofilter and with a constant air supply.

Internal sewerage

This network consists of installed risers of water pipes and installed distribution of plumbing products. The drainage system should be thought out when planning a private house, placing rooms with access to water as close as possible to each other.

The ideal option is adjacent rooms to simplify the installation of internal sewerage. In the first place there is also the question of the correct location of the collector element for the convergence of all water pipes to it.

The development of a sewerage scheme involves:

  • House plan to scale.
  • Marking the locations of risers.
  • Schematic drawing of the installed bathroom equipment with notes on the features of its connection.
  • Drawing of water pipes connecting risers and sanitary equipment. Marking of turns and joints with mandatory indication connecting elements for connecting tees and bends.
  • Calculation of riser dimensions and a fan pipe.

The diagram will help in installing the system and determining the amount of building materials. Calculation of calculations involves:

  • Designation of the location of devices on general scheme indicating their distance from the riser, pipe section, method of fastening and connection to the sewer. A calculation is made of the required volume of building materials.
  • Determining the type of sewerage system - pressure or gravity, in which fluid flow occurs under the influence of gravity.
  • Calculation of the instantaneous flow for each plumbing equipment, which will affect the thickness of the water supply pipe. Basically, except for the toilet, it is a 5 cm pipe.
  • Calculation of installation space for the riser. Preferably a restroom. If you have 2 toilets and a riser, 2 are preferable.
  • Calculation of a sewer scheme with a minimum of angles turning to reduce the possibility.

The correctness of the above calculations will affect the performance and efficiency under possible overloads.


Internal work rules

Required aspects:

  1. In the gravity version, the pipeline has an angle of inclination. For pipes with a cross section of 5-8 cm this value is 2 cm per 1 m, for a cross section of 8-10 cm the slope is up to 3 cm per 1 m.
  2. Drain pipes in the kitchen should have grease traps.
  3. The toilet is connected to the riser pipe with a cross-section of 10 cm.
  4. In a multi-storey private house, the cross-section of the riser is 10-11 cm. The riser must have hatches for cleaning.
  5. It is desirable to have one riser with suitable branches of internal sewerage.
  6. The location of the pipeline outlet depends on the location of the collection well, whose installation is desirable in the lowest place of the land plot. The outlet in the wall should be close to the well.
  7. The installation of internal sewerage is carried out using a hidden or open method. Hidden uses grooves for laying drainage elements. In this case, it is recommended to lay internal water supply elements on top and sewer elements below in a single groove. This will reduce time and volume installation work, as well as the amount of building materials. Open - simple, but not aesthetically pleasing due to the installation of the highway directly on wall panel or flooring.

Rules, non-compliance with which guarantees the inoperability of the internal sewage system or a system failure:

  • Connecting the toilet to the riser separate from the rest of the plumbing.
  • Other plumbing is connected above the toilet connection. With sufficient performance, it is possible to install several devices on one supply pipe.
  • The cross-section of the supply pipe is not less than large cross-section of equipment lines.
  • Toilet outlet cross-section 10 cm, and the riser is not allowed thinner.
  • Installing a toilet at a distance of up to 1 m from the riser, and other equipment up to 3 m.
  • If there is a supply pipe with a length of 3 m, its diameter is from 7 cm. Eyeliner with a length of 5 m is made from a 10 cm pipe.
  • If it is impossible to increase the cross-section of the supply elements, it is necessary to draw the end of this product on the roofing and equip it with a vacuum valve or loop it onto the riser above the rest.
  • Distance from pipe to the wall panel from 2 cm.
  • Same riser diameter along its entire length.
  • Calculation of the diameter of the riser by volume drainage drain.
  • Strictly vertical arrangement of risers. The permissible SNiP deviation is 2 mm per 2 m from the vertical.
  • Ventilation for each riser ends, displayed on the roof or attic.


The location of the pipeline outlet depends on the location of the collection well, whose installation is desirable in the lowest place of the land plot

Materials used

The selection of products is made according to their rigidity, anti-corrosion properties and finances. Preferred materials:

  • For gravity system– concrete, reinforced concrete, asbestos-cement, cast iron, plastic, glass products;
  • For pressure– reinforced concrete, asbestos-cement, cast iron, plastic products.

Material Features:

  • Cast iron elements. Pros - durability, long term operation, high strength and fire resistance. Disadvantages - instability to pinpoint impacts, heaviness, high price, complexity of installation and roughness of the inner surface, which promotes the layering of salt deposits.
  • Polypropylene products. Pros: corrosion resistance, resistance to saline, alkaline and acid solutions, durability, high heat resistance, increased fire resistance and affordable cost. Disadvantages: installation complexity, need for special equipment.
  • PVC elements. Pros - do not expand when exposed to temperature, resistance to UV radiation, huge selection shaped elements for assembling any pipeline. Disadvantages - instability to low temperatures, fire and at the same time the release of toxins, sensitivity to chemicals.

The best choice is for components made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride. Their ends are arranged in such a way that the connection of 2 pipes is possible by placing the end of the 1st in the socket of the 2nd. To connect to the external sewer system, use corrugated pipe due to its resistance to soil movements. Advantages: affordability, ease of transportation and installation, no need for welding during their assembly. A sealant is sufficient to seal the seams.

The material of fittings and components must be the same as the pipes themselves. For sewer wiring, it is better to use components made of polyethylene and polypropylene. The polyvinyl chloride version has lower performance properties.

The cross-section of the products depends on the drainage volume and the number of connected devices, whose component cross-sections are chosen equal to or larger than the drain pipe. Products for the riser are selected from 10 cm in cross-section for connection with a toilet, and from 5 cm without it. The distance from the equipment to the riser is up to 3 m, and from the toilet – 1 m. To increase this value, pipes of a larger cross-section are used.

Necessary construction tools: pipe cutting saw, sharp knife for alignment of cuts and rubber seals for insertion into sockets. Shaped parts for connecting components:

  • To decorate corners– elbows or bends with a bend of 45 and 90° and ends with sockets with a sealing rubber gasket.
  • Transition bends for connecting pipes of the same section.
  • Tees– fittings for branching the system.
  • Transition couplings to create transitions between elements of different sizes.

To make it easier and tighter for the pipes to fit into each other and into the fittings, the sockets should be heated in hot water.


Installation of internal sewerage

Work order:

  1. Installation of risers close to the toilet with their ends leading to the roof and into the basement. In the basement, they are connected to an inclined pipe with an external exit into the septic tank, and the upper ends are open or equipped.
  2. Separate connections from the toilet to the riser.
  3. Connecting other equipment to the risers above the toilet entrances.
  4. Installation of siphons for all sanitary equipment.
  5. Siphon connection with eyeliners.

The tightness of the joints and the rigidity of fastening the system to the wall ceilings must be observed, and there should be no pipe discrepancies. It is important to follow the rules:

  • The assembly of the components for 90° risers is carried out from 2 plastic elbows at 45°. When installing a cast iron pipeline, 2 bends at 135° are used.
  • To eliminate clogging, a 45° oblique tee is built in made of plastic or cast iron with a plug and 1 elbow or elbow made of cast iron.
  • Bends located under the ceiling basements, connected to risers with crosses or oblique tees. The distance from the bottom of the horizontal socket of the tee or straight cross to the floor surface is up to 2 cm.
  • For turns on risers or transitions to the horizon, use 90° crosses or straight tees.
  • To eliminate unpleasant odors, a hood is used, for which the exhaust pipe is brought out through the roofing to a height of up to 0.7 m without connecting it to the chimney or ventilation. If it is impossible to install a drain pipe, an air sewer valve is installed.
  • The diameters of the riser and hood are equal. Combining 2 risers is possible with one hood in the upper rooms. Horizontal sections are secured with hanging brackets.
  • On risers without indents, sewer inspections are installed, the standard height of which is 1 m. When installing the part in a corner, it is turned at 45° relative to the wall panel.
  • During plastic structures through the ceilings they are arranged in metal sleeves. The top protrudes 2 cm from the floor surface, and the bottom is flush with the ceiling.
  • Installation of the riser comes with a sleeve attached, secured with wire to the upper socket of the cross or tee.
  • When connecting a toilet and other equipment in series, there must be a sewer adapter in the horizontal section between them. U-turn plastic parts is carried out halfway through the socket of the tee towards the wall panel.
  • Clamps are used for fastening- 1 PC. by 0.5 - 1 m of the highway length.
  • Fastening cast iron pipes made with steel brackets with a bend at the end under all the elements near the bell.
  • Attaching risers to side panels 1-2 clamps on the floor.

Upon completion of installation, the tightness of the system is checked.


Ventilation arrangement

The abruptly drained volume of water contributes to the creation of rarefaction in the in-pipe space. Without oxygen, water leaves the siphons, which results in the appearance of an aroma of sewage.

Therefore, the tasks of ventilation are:

  • Removing sewage odors.
  • Constant pressure support.
  • Noise absorption.

To create ventilation, all components of the risers are brought to the roofing, without covering their upper end, but hiding them from clogging. Or an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release aromas and conducts air inside.

The cross-section of the pipe for ventilation is equal to or greater than the size of the riser. Combining a hood with a chimney or ventilation is not possible. Rules for calculating hood height:

  • On a flat unused roofing– 0.3 m;
  • On a pitched roof - 0.5 m;
  • On the operating one - 3 m;
  • The step from the prefabricated ventilation shaft is from 0.1 m.

If it is impossible to arrange ventilation, use an air vent valve on the riser above the bathroom equipment to prevent the entry of sewage.


External sewerage: choosing a system

  • A cesspool is a well structure without a bottom, the walls of which are brick, made of concrete rings, or concrete. The bottom of the well is soil, so liquid seeps out, solids settle and require cleaning over time. This option is used when the average daily waste volume is up to 1 cubic meter. m so that soil microorganisms process the liquid. With a larger volume of wastewater, this is fraught with contamination of water sources within a radius of 50 m. The addition of microorganisms helps to reduce the aroma of sewage and speed up the purification process. This option selected when the level of occurrence of underground sources below the bottom is from 1 m.
  • A ready-made or made of plastic and metal sealed tank is designed for drainage when the level of underground sources is too high. This will protect the soil composition and places of clean water from contamination. When the tank is filled, it requires cleaning, the frequency of which depends on the volume of the drains. Disadvantage: Frequent calls for a vacuum cleaner, for whom convenient access to the storage tank. The bottom of the sewer is up to 3 m from the ground. The tank lid must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing.
  • A single-chamber septic tank is a filter well, the bottom of which is a layer of crushed stone from 30 cm, on top of which is a layer of coarse grained sand. Drains passing through these layers are cleaned by 50%. Sand and crushed stone bedding helps improve the purification of liquids and more solid masses, but this is not a fundamental solution to the problem. Over time, crushed stone and sand will require replacement.
  • Two-chamber septic tank - 2 wells: 1st - with a sealed bottom, 2nd - without a bottom with sand and crushed stone powder. The 1st well is a settling tank, and the 2nd is a filter well. When wastewater enters the first well, solid masses sink to the bottom, fatty masses float up, and liquid is between them. At a height of 2/3 of the 1st well there is a connection to the 2nd well using an inclined overflow pipe. Getting into the second well, the liquid, seeping through the layers of powder, is cleaned and leaves. Over time, you will need to call a vacuum cleaner to remove solids. To reduce odors, microorganisms that decompose feces are added. Installation of such a system is possible at a level of underground sources of 1 m from the bottom of the second well. After 5 years, the crushed stone and sand layers are replaced.
  • A septic tank with a filter field is a container of 2 – 3 sections or several connected wells. 1st container for settling wastewater, from which the liquid flows through a gutter into the 2nd container with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic matter. Afterwards, the water enters the filtration fields - this is an underground area where the wastewater undergoes 80% soil purification. After this purification process, the liquid is collected in water pipes and discharged into drainage systems. It is not permitted to plant trees or vegetables above these fields, only to create flower beds. Over time, the crushed stone and sand of the fields will need to be replaced. This option is possible when the level of underground sources is below 2.5 - 3 m. The distance from the sewerage to the water sources is from 30 m.
  • Septic tank with biofilter - a container of 3 - 4 sections. In the 1st - water sedimentation, in the 2nd - the effect of anaerobic microorganisms on organic matter, 3rd - for water separation. Due to the need for a constant flow of oxygen for aerobic bacteria added to the filter, a pipe 50 cm high above the ground is installed above it in the 4th section. The water is purified by 90 - 95%, so it is used for technical needs. To do this, a drain is made from the 4th section into a storage tank or drainage system for absorption into the soil. The addition of microorganisms is possible through the toilet. The advantage is that there is no need for electrical wiring. Disadvantage - Necessary permanent residence, since the lack of drainage leads to the death of bacteria.
  • Septic tank with forced air supply– requires electrical supply to the septic tank to connect the air supply and air distributor. 3 sections are connected to each other. 1st - for the entry and settling of water. The 2nd chamber - aeration tank - for pumping partially clarified liquid from the 1st. Here, water is mixed with activated sludge from aerobic microorganisms and plants, the full functioning of which requires forced aeration. The mixture enters the 3rd chamber - the settling tank. The pump pumps the sludge back into the aeration tank. Treated wastewater is applicable for technical needs. The downside is the power requirement and the need for permanent residence.


Laying external sewerage pipes

Restrictions on the location of sewerage facilities:

  • from 5 m from the home;
  • from 20 – 50 m from a source of clean water;
  • from 10 m from the garden.

A private building is removed to:

  • 8 m from filter wells;
  • 25 m from filter fields;
  • 50 m from aeration treatment equipment;
  • 300 m from drainage systems.

The water pipes to the septic tank are insulated to prevent them from freezing in winter with a heat insulator and placed in asbestos-cement structures. External wiring is carried out by elements with a cross-section of 10 - 11 cm, whose slope is 2 cm by 2 m. It is desirable to lay components without turns or corners.

  • Before the system is installed, work is carried out inside a private house– installation of a vertical riser to alternately supply pipes from the bathroom equipment to it, maintaining a slope of 5 mm per 1 m. When installing the pump, a slope is not necessary.
  • During the planning process, the kitchen and restroom should be located near the exit of the sewer system to the street. In multi-storey construction, the arrangement of bathrooms is one below the other to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation and maintenance of the entire network. For large number bathrooms or if there is no slope on the site, it is rational to use a pump.

The installation of a sewer system requires the most scrupulous attitude to all stages of the process, including depth, slope, and reliability of connections. Each of these factors has a great impact on the quality of operation of the entire system. Negligence is unacceptable here; if you do not have confidence in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Laying depth of the sewer system

Modern sewer systems significantly improve the standard of living in a private home. If in previous years a toilet on the street was perceived as an unpleasant necessity, inseparable from a private home, today it is a sign of laziness of the owners or their extremely low income. Moreover, in the first case, you can get out of the situation by hiring professionals who will do absolutely all the work.

Helpful information:

The depth of the pipeline depends on the depth of the septic tank.

Advice! The pipe laid between the building and the septic tank must be straight. Knees and turns will cause blockages.

Before installing a sewer system, you should find out what average depth freezing in your region. The pipes need to be laid a little lower than these figures. Typically, the depth at which sewer pipes are located in a private house in the south is more than 50 cm. In the central part of the country, where the climate is harsher, the depth of sewer pipes in a private house is at least 70 cm. These figures are especially significant if sewer pipes are located under platforms or under paths that are winter period freed from snow.

Features of laying sewer pipes

Laying of sewer pipes must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

  • you need to use pipes of the required diameter;
  • it is necessary to observe the standard slope norm (about 0.03 m per 1 linear meter of pipe);
  • It is permissible to use pipes from different materials, but in the same pipeline the pipes must match the material.

The depth of the pipeline can be determined based on the following points:

  • the nature of the site (its topography, soil features);
  • The point where the sewer pipe exits the house.

This convenient device allows you to monitor the operation of the sewer system and eliminate emerging problems in a timely manner. It is not very difficult to make, but it brings a lot of comfort to the process of operation.

Taking into account the depth of soil freezing is a fundamental requirement. In order not to spend money on constructing deeper trenches than necessary, you need to have a clear understanding of the depth of soil freezing in a given area. Below is a table that will help you navigate this issue.

How to properly install thermal insulation?

In cold regions, it is recommended to supplement the sewer pipeline with thermal insulation. This technique allows you to extend the service life and eliminate the possibility of freezing at very low temperatures. Most often, polyurethane foam is used for this purpose. If you wrap the pipe in polyurethane foam and make a polyethylene shell on top, the pipe will not be afraid of frost.

If you lay pipes below the possible freezing point, the pipes will never freeze. In this case additional protection done in case of extreme cold. When performing thermal insulation Special attention pay attention to joints and turning points. It is these zones that tolerate the effects of cold rather poorly. So insulation of turning points is mandatory.

In Europe, a more technologically advanced method is used. An electric cable is placed next to the pipeline; if necessary, it acts as a heater for the pipe. For many residents of our country, this method is too expensive, because paying for energy is not the smallest expense item. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the depth of pipe laying. In the central regions, it is better to choose a depth of 1 m. And in the northern regions, it is advisable to dig deeper trenches and carry out high-quality thermal insulation. For this you can either use fiberglass. If the pipes are located above the ground, they are also insulated similar materials. Since they can be filled with water, .

Video - Installation of external sewerage and insulation

The interior of the sewer system of a private house

For uninterrupted operation of the sewerage system, the following pipe diameter requirements must be observed:

  • toilet, shower, bath, swimming pool – 10 – 11 cm;
  • sink – 5 cm;
  • riser – 10 – 11 cm.

Video - Long and detailed story about installing sewer pipes

External part of the sewer system of a private house

The main requirement is to ensure proper slope. The only correct drainage is gravity. Too low a speed will cause blockages. Moving wastewater too quickly will accelerate the destruction of pipes.

The scheme for laying sewerage in a private house includes a description of the characteristics of the pipe exiting the premises. The rules for removing the pipe from the house depend on the type of foundation. At strip foundation the output is located on the side. For slab installations, the pipe is laid from top to bottom; for this, a section of pipe and a 45° elbow are used. To install a sewer system, a sleeve pipe is laid in the foundation in advance, through which the main pipeline is then routed. Such a base is needed to protect the pipeline from excessive pressure and potential destruction.

From the exit point to the septic tank/cesspool, the pipe is laid evenly, without bends. The drainage pipe is inserted into the septic tank at the top. This is done to provide a place for waste to accumulate.

In order not to make a mistake about the depth of pipe installation, you need to find out how things are going with your neighbors who have already installed a drain for themselves. If they have problems with pipe freezing, you will need to bury your pipe further. No matter how deep the pipe lies, a slope is required in any case. Usually make 2 - 3 cm per linear meter.

  1. You should do this first detailed diagram piping inside the house. This will reduce time and financial costs by providing all the best options.
  2. The pipes are routed towards the riser or septic tank, sharp corners are excluded.
  3. The riser on each floor must be equipped with a tee designed to service the sewer system for quick cleaning.

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