How to care for garden hydrangea: why it doesn’t bloom, how to change the color and much more. Why did large-leaved hydrangea stop blooming?

Hydrangea is especially popular among amateur gardeners. This is due to a number of factors. First of all, hydrangea flowers are collected in inflorescences and form large “caps”. And the color range varies from soft white to bright red or purple.

This plant will decorate any flower bed. The peculiarity of hydrangea is that it can be grown at home. However, it is quite whimsical and sometimes it is difficult to answer the question of why hydrangea does not bloom. How should you care for this plant so that it pleases the eye during flowering? Hydrangea can be grown both outdoors and in a pot. Let's consider each case separately.

Garden hydrangea

This shrub does not tolerate sun well. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, it is necessary to choose a shaded area that practically does not receive direct sunlight. You must constantly ensure that the soil is moist. If there is a lack of moisture, hydrangea not only blooms poorly, but also slows down its growth rate. Required condition For hydrangea to bloom, the presence of soil with an acidic reaction is essential.

Fertilizer and care

Like any other shrub, hydrangea needs fertilizing, fertilizing and pruning. It is advisable to feed the flower several times a month with special substances.

Trimming

As for pruning, the situation here is somewhat more complicated than with feeding and fertilizer. Trimming is done:

• in the spring, if during winter the branches of the bush suffered from cold weather;
• in the fall, to rejuvenate the plant.

To avoid damage to the branches, you need to cut off all the inflorescences every autumn. The exception is macrophila, which does not need pruning. Such a need exists only when there are branches damaged by frost. At the same time, you need to be careful not to remove branches with flower buds during pruning. Often this is the reason why hydrangea does not bloom.

Features of care

You also need to ensure that the soil is loose. If you want to avoid permanent work After loosening the soil, you can add mulch. It is advisable to water the plant with warm water. Hydrangea can hardly be called a frost-resistant plant. Therefore, it needs to be covered or dug up for the winter.

Reasons for the absence of inflorescences

Based on all of the above, the answer to the question of why garden hydrangea does not bloom may be as follows:

• incorrectly chosen landing site;
• improper pruning;
• frost damage to shoots;
• underdeveloped root system.

Due to the fact that there are more than 80 types of hydrangea, each of them has specific characteristics. Let's consider possible reasons lack of inflorescences for the most popular varieties.

Paniculata hydrangea

There may be several reasons why paniculate hydrangea does not bloom. This species is frost-resistant. Unlike many other varieties, it does not need to be covered for the winter. However, it is no less, and perhaps even more demanding, when it comes to soil than other hydrangeas. The plant feels good on loamy soils that are slightly acidic. But on sandy soils, paniculate hydrangea most likely will not bloom. Another reason for the lack of inflorescences in summer may be a lack of nutrients. Therefore, hydrangea must be fed.

Pink hydrangea

The answer to the question of why pink hydrangea does not bloom is simple. This type of hydrangea does not tolerate frost. Therefore, the reason for the lack of inflorescences may be the freezing of flower buds. You need to carefully prune the plant. Since you can cut off shoots with already formed flower buds. Also, the reason for the lack of flowering may be an insufficiently strong root system. We must not forget that hydrangea loves acidic soil. And insufficient acidity of the soil may be the reason for the lack of flowers.

Why does large-leaved hydrangea not bloom?

The main reason for the lack of inflorescences is improper pruning. It is advisable to do it in the spring and remove only branches damaged by frost. Otherwise, you may lose the shoots on which flower buds are formed. Also, large-leaved hydrangea will not bloom in conditions of insufficient watering.

Hydrangea

Why doesn't tree hydrangea bloom? First of all, this shrub needs systematic feeding. In severe winter conditions, the plant may freeze, which may be the reason for the lack of flowering. Like other species, this hydrangea needs abundant watering.

Indoor hydrangea

Like garden hydrangea, domestic hydrangea does not tolerate direct sunlight or drought during flowering. Therefore, you need to choose a cool place, protected from the sun. However, with the onset of winter, this plant needs to be moved to the sunniest place in the apartment. As for the temperature, it should not exceed 20 degrees Celsius. In addition to maintaining the required temperature, the hydrangea needs to be watered abundantly and the leaves should be sprayed. In winter, the plant sheds its leaves, so watering can be reduced, but complete drying of the soil is unacceptable. Indoor hydrangea, like garden hydrangea, needs feeding. It needs to be done several times a month. After winter, weakened and damaged branches need to be pruned.

Reasons for the absence of inflorescences

Here are some facts that may answer the question of why indoor hydrangea does not bloom:

• incorrectly chosen place for the flowerpot;
• insufficient moisture;
• incorrect temperature conditions;
• incorrect pruning.

In order for hydrangea to delight with lush inflorescences, it is necessary to monitor temperature conditions and regularity of watering. These are the most important factors. It is imperative to cover the plant for the winter. If the shoots were damaged in winter, then the likelihood that the hydrangea will bloom in the next few years is very low.

It's easy to make hydrangea bloom magnificently

Why doesn’t hydrangea bloom? We figured it out, but what needs to be done for this plant to begin to delight with lush inflorescences? You can try to find a better place. However, when transplanting, the plant may suffer. Therefore, you need to dig up the hydrangea carefully so as not to damage it. root system. Otherwise, it will not bloom until it recovers. And this may take about two years.

It will also be useful to increase the acidity of the soil. This can be done using pine humus or peat. Under no circumstances should chalk, ash or lime be used for feeding. These substances reduce the acidity of the soil, and therefore will cause a lack of flowering.

One of the main enemies of hydrangea is frost. Therefore, for the winter the plant needs to be wrapped and the soil mulched. Damage to flower buds by residual frost will answer the question of why hydrangea does not bloom.

You also need to remember to water the bush at least 2 times a week. If the plant is mature, it will need an average of 40 liters of water. It would be better if it was rainy. If this is not possible, then the water must be settled.

If the hydrangea did not bloom in the summer, then do not prune in the fall. Perhaps it was during the autumn pruning of branches that you got rid of shoots with flower buds. After winter, you will need to get rid of the affected branches, and from the flower buds you will get lush “caps” of inflorescences.

Another reason for the lack of flowers may be pests. These include mosaic leaf disease, downy mildew, gray rot, aphids, weevils, weevils and spider mites. If you find signs of the disease, you immediately need to take measures to combat them.

There is one more detail that sellers almost always keep silent about. The variety of varieties is very large. However, not all of them are suitable for our climate. If the climatic conditions are not suitable for the hydrangea, then no matter how you care for the plant, it will not bloom.

Finally, I would like to say a few words about one feature of this marvelous shrub. Hydrangea can change its color. In order for the plant to change color, you can use aluminum alum. In a pre-prepared container you need to put 5 grams of this alum and fill it with 1 liter of water. If there are several plants, you need to do large quantity solution. However, the ratio of water and aluminum alum should remain the same. All that remains is to water the soil with the resulting liquid. And the color change occurs due to changes in the acidity of the soil and the amount of iron in it. If you have iron filings on hand, you can safely replace alum with them. As a last resort, old nails will do.

You can show your imagination and feed the bush on only one side. The result is a hydrangea with inflorescences of different shades. Obviously, miracles do not happen and bright red flowers cannot be made from white flowers. However, you can turn pink into rich lilac, and white into soft blue. Care for the plant correctly - and you will never need an answer to the question of why hydrangea does not bloom.

- a beautiful, but capricious flower that does not always live up to the expectations of gardeners, and does not always bloom in response to careful care. What is the reason for this phenomenon, why does indoor or garden hydrangea refuse to bloom, and what should be done to correct the situation? There are many answers to these questions, let's look at them together.

The right choice when purchasing

When purchasing a room or garden hydrangea You should pay attention to whether there are buds on the stems. If the answer is yes, then the sellers watered the hydrangea with flowering stimulants, forcing it to bloom to give it a “marketable appearance.” The young plant has already spent a lot of effort on forming buds, and after transplantation it may not bloom for two years, or may not take root in the new place at all. What to do in this case? Transplant the bush into another pot or into open ground along with a lump of earth so that it can better adapt to its new location. And after the adaptation period, start feeding it with mineral fertilizers.

To answer the question: why doesn’t hydrangea bloom, you need to know what type of plant you are buying. Some types of hydrangea cannot bloom at a young age, or bloom poorly, because they have not yet accumulated enough nutrients for beautiful and lush flowering. After all, the inflorescences of most hydrangeas are large, and the bush spends a lot of effort on them.

Types of hydrangeas such as garden large-leaved, tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas do not bloom immediately. The first 1-2 years after planting are spent developing the root system, then the above-ground part is strengthened; if both stages are successful, the plant will begin to bloom only in the third year.

And one more thing - for planting in open ground, choose zoned varieties of hydrangea. If the summer in your area is too short, the flower buds will not have time to form and there will be no flowering.

Effect of pruning on flowering

Improper pruning is another factor that has a significant impact on the flowering of garden or indoor hydrangea. In order not to wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom, it is necessary to prune it correctly. Moreover, the concept of “correct” is individual for each type of hydrangea.

So, in spring and autumn, only faded inflorescences are cut off so that they do not break under the weight of snow. If the hydrangea did not bloom in the summer, then there is no need to prune it at all.

In the spring, paniculate hydrangea is pruned before the buds open; if you miss the time of pruning, the development of the plant will be so arrested that it will not bloom this season. When pruning, weak and small shoots are removed, as well as shoots that froze in severe frosts. Annual shoots are pruned so that 3-4 pairs of buds remain.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms only on last year’s shoots, or more precisely, on young branches that grew on last year’s shoots. And if you remove last year’s shoots when pruning, there will be no flowering. Trimming large leaf hydrangea is carried out only to remove damaged stems and last year's inflorescences.

Ground cover hydrangea blooms on young shoots this year. Its pruning consists of shortening too long young branches, due to which the bush becomes more branched and blooms more abundantly.

From this we can conclude: in order for a hydrangea to bloom, its pruning is carried out taking into account its species characteristics, otherwise you may never see it bloom at all. We must not forget that hydrangea, which grows in wildlife, blooms without any pruning, so at home you shouldn’t get too carried away with this operation.

Proper wintering

To protect hydrangea from severe frosts, they begin to prepare it for winter in the fall. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, but where the winter temperature drops below 25 degrees, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.

Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to create a box - the branches are placed in it. To avoid bending them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground and branches are placed on this cushion. The box is also boarded up on top, and after heavy snowfall it is additionally insulated with snow.

In the spring, with the onset of warmth, the entire structure is removed, and the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. In the event of spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush must be covered with agrofibre - if the flower buds that have just begun to develop freeze, the plant will not bloom this year.

The whims of a home flower

Sometimes indoor hydrangeas growing in favorable conditions. What is the reason, and what to do in this case? Let's start from afar - in the fall, indoor hydrangea can completely shed its leaves and retire. At this time, it is taken out into a dark, cool room, watering is reduced, carried out only so that the roots do not dry out and with the beginning of spring the plant begins to grow and bloom again.

At the end of winter, indoor hydrangea is taken out into a bright and warm room, and they begin to water and feed well. At the same time, you should not place the flower pot in direct sunlight - hydrangea prefers coolness and diffused light. If the room temperature is too high, they try to create special conditions for the hydrangea - they move it away from the window and heating devices, often ventilate the room without exposing the flower to drafts. Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature; this feature also needs to be taken into account.

Soon new shoots will begin to grow from the roots, on which inflorescences will form. If there are too many shoots, some of them are removed, leaving 3-4 of the strongest and largest ones. The remaining stems are fed with mineral fertilizers. Good fertilizer for hydrangea is coffee, which is scattered over the surface of the soil in a pot.

Every 3-4 years, the hydrangea is transplanted to a new place; for this, a soil mixture with an acidic reaction is made from peat, pine needles, leaf and turf soil. You can use ready-made soil for azaleas by adding some pine needles to it.

Heat-loving perennial shrub Hydrangea is native to Japan and first bloomed in the 18th century. Initially, the plant was only indoors, but experts “relocated” the hydrangea to open ground. Hydrangea is known as a frost-resistant plant that long years will please the eye in a flowerbed in a temperate climate.

Varieties of flowering hydrangea

Today there are many different varieties and types of flowering hydrangea available:

1. Oakleaf. Brought to temperate latitudes from North America, the advantage of the species is its frost resistance - the plant can withstand temperatures down to -29 degrees. Popular varieties include "Tennessee Clone", "Applause", "Little Honey" and many others, which are characterized by lobed (oak) leaves up to 24 cm in length and big flowers up to 3 cm in diameter.
   
2. Serrated. Low-growing perennial bush. Varieties: “BlueBird”, “Golden Sunlight”, “Veerle”. A spreading plant with jagged leaves and inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter. Distinctive feature variety is the color of the flowers - a bright, rich blue hue.
   
3. Chereshkova. The plant is a deciduous vine with aerial roots; the total length of hydrangea can reach 25 meters at proper care. This type of flowering hydrangea is used by florists to decorate arches and pergolas. The plant variety is distinguished by a wide variety of flowering colors and shapes, but main feature- This is a spicy aroma. This type of hydrangea is often called climbing or climbing.
   
4. Garden large-leaved. Another name is broad-leaved, large-leaved. Decorative look flowering hydrangea for planting in open ground, at least 130 cm high and straight ovoid leaves, as well as spherical inflorescences. The flowers are large, up to 3 cm, usually Pink colour. The shoots of the current year are grassy and green, woody on next year. The most common flowering varieties are “Forever & Ever”, “Romance”, “Red Sensation” and many others.
5. . The name of the crop is directly related to the shape of the flowers, which are associated with the panicle and reach a length of 20-25 cm. This is a bush up to 2.5 meters high, which tolerates low winter temperatures and has a dense crown. Varieties: “Vanilla Fraze”, “Diamond Rouge”, Limelight.”
   
6. Tree-like. The peculiarity of the plant is its high tolerance to cold and strong, abundant flowering. The tree-like variety is a tall shrub, up to 160 cm long, with oblong leaves and small flowers in an inflorescence. Flowers of this species are often called white bush hydrangea. This type The flowering crop is represented by such popular varieties as Grandiflora and Pink Annabelle.
   

When and how long do hydrangeas bloom?

It has the following properties:

• Allows increase productivity by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
• You can get a good one harvest even on low-fertility soils and in unfavorable climatic conditions
• Absolutely safe

Features of hydrangea flowering

Hydrangea blooming received its name thanks to the sister of Prince of the Holy Roman Empire Charles Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen, Princess Hortensia. The literal translation of the name is “water vessel”, which means that in order to get abundant flowering, it must not be left without life-giving moisture.

If hydrangea is planted in early spring with high-quality soil fertilizer, the bush can delight you with several inflorescences by mid-summer.

In what year after planting the hydrangea will bloom depends on the region.

On average, the plant will bloom 3 years after planting; it is worth considering that hydrangea does not bloom in the 2 and 4 years of planting.

The culture tolerates light shade and partial shade.

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom?

If you do not care for it correctly, it often happens that the bush does not bloom.

To achieve success, you need to find out the reasons and eliminate them:

1. Improper soil fertilization, namely, excessive use of potassium phosphate elements will lead to oversaturation of the soil. must be applied to the soil throughout spring, summer and autumn, in winter time use is strictly prohibited.
2. Too much pruning crowns of hydrangea will lead to the fact that the inflorescences will have nothing to develop on. In spring, you can trim only dry branches and those growing inside the bush, so as not to interfere with the formation of the crown.
3. Unfair care before winter will lead to freezing of last year's shoots, so it is important to take care of high-quality cover for the crown of the bush for the winter. It is worth removing woven dense material after frosts and a decline in spring temperature changes.
4. Hydrangea does not bloom if the buds are damaged. This happens with varieties that have large leaves. Buds form on top of last year's shoots. Flowering occurs precisely on these shoots, so it is important to cover the flower completely in the winter so that the buds do not freeze.

How to get hydrangea to bloom in the garden?

For crops in open ground, subject to all care rules, in order to increase flowering and so that the plant blooms faster, use the following techniques:

1. Early growth arrest performed in November or early December, in which case the first flowering can be expected in early March.
2. For faster flowering The warm watering method is used; for this, water is watered with a temperature of at least 35-36 degrees from the early spring months.
3. With the appearance of the first leaves and shoots, watering of the bush is doubled, and additional spraying is used at a temperature of at least 14 degrees.

For hydrangeas in tubs and pots, there are other ways to speed up flowering:

1. Thermal baths when the pot is placed for 10-12 hours in a basin with warm water(36-38 degrees).
2. To ensure flowering in December-January it is necessary to carry out measures for additional electric lighting. To do this, tubs and pots are placed under lamps for 8-10 hours at a time, especially at night. Such an event accelerates the onset of inflorescence formation by 15-20 days.

Flowering indoor hydrangea

Rules for caring for home flowers:

• Trim an adult homemade hydrangea bush to 25-30 cm from the ground and plant it in the ground for the winter.
• Cover well with dry leaves and spruce.
• In spring, trim the stems to the very base.
• After renewing the crown in August, plant the plant back in the tub.

Tips for choosing pot size:

• For one shoot on a bush, choose a tub with a diameter of no more than 10-12 cm.
• Two or three shoots - it is better to give preference to a pot with a diameter of up to 15 cm.
• For a large bush – 18-20 cm.

Care after flowering

Hydrangea of ​​paniculate and tree-like varieties is pruned with high quality, but large-leaved hydrangea is not touched at all, because it blooms on last year’s shoots. Caring for perennials after flowering must be carried out either in late autumn, or all activities must be postponed to spring. When flowering has passed, the inflorescences must be carefully removed from the bush.

How to trim?

Pruning techniques are divided into two main types:

Hydrangea paniculate variety cut back to old branches, leaving a few main shoots. Indoor hydrangeas undergo gentle pruning, forming the crown of the bush and somewhat replacing old branches with new ones. The event takes place in late autumn.

Renewing a bush, if done correctly, is completely safe and will allow the bush to acquire greater luxury and splendor.

Preparing for winter

Before the attack winter period, the hydrangea is covered with a dense, natural fabric that allows air to pass through. Cold tolerant - tree hydrangea, but it is also covered for the winter.

Step-by-step plan for preparing a perennial plant for winter:

• On the 20th of September, excess leaves are removed according to the recommended pruning scheme. This will ensure lignification of the shoots and strengthening of the bush.
• After this, it is important to feed the soil with potassium phosphate elements to provide the plant with high-quality nutrition during the winter.
• It is important to know that in autumn it is strictly not recommended to add nitrogen preparations to the soil.
• After this, cover the bush with woven material.

Hydrangea transplant

It is not recommended to replant perennial shrubs in autumn; this will cause difficulties in the plant’s adaptation and lead to death. But if we're talking about Regarding tree hydrangea or paniculata, experts allow replanting in the fall.

It is better to replant the plant in the spring, if possible, before the sap begins to flow.

For this:

1. dig a hole with a diameter of up to 30 cm;
2. bring in, pour in a bucket of water;
3. branches of flowering shrubs are tied with twine so as not to damage them;
4. plant a bush in the prepared hole and cover it with soil.

At the end of the event, carry out rejuvenating pruning of the crown so that the hydrangea takes root as quickly as possible and sends out new roots and blooms. It is not advisable to replant a blooming hydrangea; this will lead to the death of the inflorescences and poor survival rate.

Photo gallery: blooming hydrangea in garden design

Stories from our readers!
“I am a summer resident with many years of experience, and I started using this fertilizer only last year. I tested it on the most capricious vegetable in my garden - tomatoes. The bushes grew and bloomed together, they yielded more than usual. And they did not suffer from late blight, this is the main thing.

Fertilizer really gives more intensive growth garden plants, and they bear fruit much better. Nowadays you can’t grow a normal harvest without fertilizer, and this fertilizing increases the amount of vegetables, so I’m very pleased with the result.”

How to feed hydrangea?

Proper systematic feeding of the soil for hydrangea is the key to long-lasting growth, lush flowering and good general condition of the shrub. It is necessary to fertilize so that the plant survives the winter and is resistant to diseases and pests.

For the spring period, the following fertilizer application scheme is used:

• IN spring period leaves develop, inflorescences form, and the crown grows. For this important element is nitrogen, therefore for feeding it is recommended to use solutions of potassium sulfate and urea in equal parts 1:1 and diluted in water (10 liters). To water one flowering bush IR, at least 4-6 liters of solution is required.
• So that the hydrangea receives sufficient quantity nitric acid use slurry, which is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10.
• Before tying buds It is recommended to add a slightly different composition to the soil; a large amount of phosphorus and potassium is required. A drug such as superphosphate is great for this.
• For a strong powerful stem, hydrangea is fed with a weak, slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. It can only be applied three times during the entire spring season.

IN summer time To obtain abundant flowering of hydrangeas, use the drug “Kemira flower”, as well as the following feeding recipes:

• Organic-based solutions, such as bird droppings or manure, diluted in equal parts with water.
• In summer, nitrogen substances are limited.
• In the summer, lactic acid is well used; in this case, it is allowed to use kefir, whey, and yogurt for irrigation.
• Effective simple option is feeding with soaked sourdough bread.

In autumn, they pay special attention to the issue of fertilizing flowering hydrangeas and carefully follow the recommendations:

• Add potassium sulfate and superphosphates to the soil. Specialized phosphorus-potassium solutions help the perennial to properly prepare for winter and strengthen the roots. To do this, dilute 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water and use at least 7 liters per bush.
• Add nitrogen elements to the soil at autumn period strictly not allowed. Otherwise, this may result in the plant being vulnerable to frost and not surviving the winter. The only things allowed to be used are peat and manure in small quantities.

Hydrangea diseases and how to revive a flower?

Among the most common diseases and pests of hydrangea are the following:

Cobwebby	Description: Covers inner side leaves of a blooming hydrangea with a web of brown tint. In this case, yellowing of the foliage is immediately noticeable, after which it dries and falls off. How to fight? Products such as Tiofors and Fitoverm are used as pest control drugs.
Mealybug	Description: The disease caused by a mealyworm appears on the leaves and stems of the bush; they become covered with extensive yellow spots. If no control measures are taken, the spots gradually grow and the plant dies. The development of such an unpleasant situation is facilitated by high humidity air and high temperature. How to fight? To get rid of the disease, use a solution copper sulfate, water and green soap in parts 15g:10l:150g.
Chlorosis	Description: The first sign that the hydrangea has been exposed to chlorosis , are white leaves in which only the veins remain dark green. This often manifests itself when there is an excess of humus or manure in the soil. How to fight? In this case, it is necessary to use a solution of potassium nitrate 40 g per bucket of water and water it 3 times every three days.
Green leafy	Description: If a flowering hydrangea is affected by green leaf aphids, most often when the crop grows in closed ground. How to fight? As control and prevention, the method of spraying with a solution of anabasine sulfate, in a proportion of 20 grams per 10 liters of water, is used.
Fungal rot	Description: Fungal rot of hydrangea spreads mainly to the roots of the plant. This process stops the flow of moisture and nutrients, due to which the perennial becomes covered with storms and dies. The cause is bacteria in the soil (organic amendments), which mainly affect young, immature plants. How to fight? To get rid of fungal diseases in a timely manner, use effective drug phytosporin and other high quality.
Snails	Description: Often blooming hydrangea I attack snails (grape snail and common amber snail). Insects eat inflorescences, feed on moisture from leaves, and “steal” nutrients from the plant. Snails can often be seen near a bush in winter; they hibernate there and in the soil dug around the nest of snails. With the appearance of the first rays of sunlight, the snails begin to feed on the still unblown shoots. How to fight? To get rid of them in the spring, use metaldehyde powder, scattering it around the bush. It mixes with the soil and blocks the path of snails, preventing them from reaching leaves and flowers.
Root nematode	Description: They are small worms that create swellings on the roots during their life. This leads to rotting and death of the plant. This problem is most often encountered by owners of young bushes. How to fight? To eliminate the problem, use a light solution of potassium permanganate to water the roots.

To revive a plant, depending on the cause of its death, a variety of chemicals and high-quality, effective fertilizers are used.

• To get rid of light spots on hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to rid the crop of direct sunlight.
• If only the tips of the plant rot, the problem is a lack of moisture and dry air.
• If the hydrangea does not bloom, the soil may need to be fed with nutrient solutions.

We answer questions

Hydrangea is a unique flower, and many inexperienced gardeners ask the most common questions about caring for and growing a perennial plant.

We answer the questions:

1. A hydrangea bush with inflorescences of different colors - how to achieve this effect? It is not difficult to achieve this effect; fertilizing will help with this:
   1. To get a different shade on one bush inflorescences, you need to add ammonia-potassium alum diluted in water (10 pieces per 2 liters) on one side of the bush. This will give one part of the hydrangea bush a blue color.
   2. To obtain sky blue inflorescences feed the soil with iron salts or you can dig in an iron pipe for subsequent oxidation.
   3. To get pink color flowers on a bush, you need to pour a handful of lime into the soil on one side of the perennial.
2. Is it possible to make a purchased flowering indoor hydrangea bloom several times? Hydrangea is a unique plant; inflorescences appear from mid-summer to late autumn. But if the flowering period has already passed, it is impossible to make the flower bloom again, even if it is transplanted into open ground.
3. Is it possible to take cuttings from a flowering bush? It is better to take hydrangea cuttings in the summer using annual cuttings up to 15 cm long. The flowering bush is pruned for cuttings, but the inflorescences are removed (trimmed). In this case, better rooting of the branches is ensured and the material for planting is of higher quality.

Conclusion

Hydrangea represents the most beautiful perennial for home and garden. Thanks to constant high-quality care, the bush will delight its owners with gorgeous flowers and bright colors. Growing hydrangea in the country will not be difficult even for a novice gardener if you follow the rules and recommendations described above.

There can be many reasons why hydrangea does not bloom. The garden beauty is capricious. To grow this magnificent flower in your garden and enjoy its blooms, you need to make some effort. It is necessary to study its preferences, determine the need for watering and lighting. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil, planting location and plant variety. If you carefully analyze the conditions in which hydrangea grows, you can discover the reasons for its problems and correct the mistakes made.

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Poor place to plant a seedling

Hydrangea feels uncomfortable on open places being under the scorching rays of the sun all day. The tender leaves of many varieties droop lifelessly and burn in the heat.

On sunny place The plant will be saved by low planting. Tree trunk circle the bush should be 10 cm below ground level. It must be mulched with coarse-fiber peat or sawdust to the surface of the ground. In such conditions, the plant can develop and bloom normally.

In hot and sunny regions it is better to grow paniculata hydrangea. With regular moistening, it will withstand direct sunlight all day long without harming flowering.

In deep shade, under the crowns of large trees, hydrangea is unlikely to delight with its lush color. The perennial does not develop well in heavy shade, regardless of which variety is planted. If flowers appear, they will be sparse and underdeveloped.



All varieties of plants prefer places where the sun's rays fall only before lunch. In such conditions, hydrangea blooms especially brightly, magnificently and for a long time.

If the place for the shrub is chosen poorly and the situation cannot be corrected in any way, you need to replant it. This should be done only as a last resort, since the plant does not tolerate transplantation well. Most the right time for transplantation - autumn. At this time, the perennial is dormant.

Having selected a suitable area, you need to dig a hole to a depth of 50 cm. The extracted soil is mixed with 2 buckets of humus and 80 g is added mineral fertilizer. Hydrangea loves acidic soil and grows quickly in it. Therefore, the soil for it needs to be acidified with a solution of sulfuric acid (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).

The plant must be replanted very carefully, along with a lump of earth. If the root system is damaged during replanting, the plant will not bloom for a long time.



Lack or excess moisture

Hygrophilia is the main feature of hydrangea. The shrub has the botanical name Hydrangea. Translated from Greek language"hydrangea" means "water vessel". If there is a lack of moisture, the plant stops blooming. Its roots should always be kept moist. Do not allow the earthen ball to dry out near the roots. If the weather is dry, without watering the hydrangea may die.



In cool weather, it is enough to water the flower once a week. On hot and dry days, watering should be done every 3 days. The young plant also needs additional moisture until it is 1 year old.

If the soil is clayey, water less frequently. Water will stagnate in heavy soil. If there is excess moisture, hydrangea may reduce or stop flowering. An abundance of water leads to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. Oakleaf hydrangea tolerates moisture accumulation near the roots more difficult than others. It only needs well-drained soil. So that the water in clay soil does not accumulate, you need to add pine bark to it.

For irrigation, it is better to use rain or filtered water. Tap water must be left to stand for 5 days before watering. To water a bush once, you need 1-1.5 buckets of water. To prevent moisture from spreading, it is worth making an earthen border at the base of the bush.

In a garden surrounded by large and powerful hydrangea trees, there will not be enough moisture. The roots of the trees will take water from the flower. Even if tree roots are removed when planting a perennial, they will grow within a year.



Adaptation after disembarkation

Very often after disembarking a healthy flowering plant in open ground, it loses its decorative qualities and stops flowering. A sharp deterioration in the condition of the flower is due to the lack of usual feedings. Hydrangea sellers often abuse fertilizers and overfeed the plants, achieving lush flowering and rapid growth. When exposed to natural conditions, the flowering bush begins to ache. It is not able to independently absorb the necessary substances from the soil. Such a plant may die if emergency measures are not taken.



When transplanting hydrangea from a container into the soil, you do not need to trim the roots and shake off the substrate. It will be very difficult for a weakened plant to restore its root system. The remaining soil in the container must be mixed with garden soil and poured into the root zone.

In the first year, you need to regularly fertilize hydrangeas, gradually reducing the dosage. It is important to create ideal conditions for the plant in the first months after transplantation, avoiding drying out and stagnation of water in the root zone. When the hydrangea gets stronger, it will begin to develop and bloom.



Incorrectly selected fertilizers

If hydrangea is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, the young shoots will not have time to harden before frost. Vulnerable branches will die during frosts along with flower buds. To preserve young shoots of perennials, nitrogen fertilizers must be applied in the spring. At the beginning of bush growth, 25 g of urea, 40 g of superphosphate and 35 g of potassium sulfur are added per 1 m² of soil. This will allow the plant to develop lush greenery.



When the first buds appear, the number nitrogen fertilizing reduce. Otherwise, all the plant’s energy will be spent on the formation of greenery, and not on flowers. To maintain lush flowering, 1 m² of land is fertilized with 80 g of superphosphate and 45 g of potassium sulfur.

When the plant fades, you need to put 15 kg of compost or rotted manure under it. Fertilizers will help the perennial to survive the winter safely and preserve buds for flowering next year.

Frozen buds in winter

Hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots. Buds of future flowers are laid in autumn. If the plant is covered too late on the eve of winter or opened very early in the spring, the buds may be damaged by frost. Some varieties of shrubs (Endless, or Forever&Ever) bloom on shoots of the previous and current year. Flowers may appear on them, but in much smaller quantities than usual.



To avoid kidney freezing and ensure lush flowering, you need to trim the lower leaves to the middle height of the bush 3 weeks before the first frost. This will allow the shoots to become woody and stronger. The existing inflorescences will help protect flower buds from frost. They should not be cut.

Before the first frost, the buds are covered with burlap or lutrasil. On the eve of permanent frosts, remove the remaining leaves, tie the bush, wrap it in burlap or lutrasil and bend the branches to the ground. To prevent branches from breaking under the weight of snow, a log or roller made from tightly tied pine branches is placed under them. You need to sprinkle pine needles under the root. The top of the plant is covered with film.

The film is removed in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, so that the garden hydrangea can be ventilated. The bush can be lifted. Lutrasil should be removed only when a stable above-zero temperature has been established. With this method of sheltering for the winter, the plant will bloom earlier than usual.



Unsuccessful bush pruning

If at autumn pruning If the buds of future flowers are removed, the plant will not bloom in due time.



Hydrangeas should be pruned only when necessary. Young plants should not be touched until they begin to bloom. The first flowers appear on the perennial after 2-3 years. Paniculate hydrangeas can bloom only in the 6th year.

In the fall, most varieties of hydrangeas do not need to be pruned. Spring pruning better to carry out in more late dates when damage caused to the bush by frost is visible. Remove frozen buds, shoots and broken branches.

From correct pruning The decorativeness of the shrub depends. Some types of hydrangea have a very developed shoot-forming ability. If you do not thin out the bush, it will quickly thicken and bloom less abundantly with small inflorescences. On a severely neglected perennial, flowers may not form.

It is necessary to cut out small branches inside the bush that do not produce full-fledged inflorescences.



To enhance flowering, last year's shoots must be shortened, leaving 1-3 strong couples kidney One pair is left on a thin shoot, and several inflorescences will fully develop on a thick one.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the upper buds of last year's shoots. Therefore, it is important to preserve the tops of young shoots that did not bloom last year. The lower buds on the shoots rarely bloom. Old shoots that are more than 4-6 years old do not produce flowers, so they need to be removed.

Diseases and pests

The reason why hydrangea does not bloom in the garden may be alkalization of the soil. Even if the flower is planted in the most suitable soil, over time the soil will become more alkaline. Due to the reduced acidity of the soil, the plant's absorption of iron is impaired and iron chlorosis (iron deficiency) develops.



A sign of chlorosis are prominent green veins on a lightened and yellowed background of the leaf blade. The leaves decrease in size, curl and fall off. The shape of buds and flowers changes. They dry out and crumble.

You can notice a decrease in soil acidity by changing the color of the inflorescence. If blue or blue flowers began to acquire a lilac color, the acidity of the soil decreased. Pink hydrangea will bloom on slightly acidic and neutral soil.

Hydrangea growing in lime-rich soil often suffers from chlorosis. Only tree hydrangea can withstand lime in the soil.

To cure a plant, you need to prepare a solution potassium nitrate. It is prepared from 40 g of potassium nitrate and 10 liters of water. Hydrangea is watered with the mixture for 3 days in a row, and on the fourth day iron sulfate is added to the soil.

You can quickly and easily solve the problem of chlorosis with the help of rust. It is scraped off from large metal objects and mixed with root soil. You can bury rusty nails or tin lids near the roots.

To prevent the development of chlorosis, you need to regularly water the bush with special fertilizers for hydrangeas.

In spring, chlorosis can develop due to sharp fluctuations temperatures during the day and night. Metabolism in the plant is disrupted if the roots are in cold soil and the above-ground part is heated by the sun's rays. As the soil warms, the plant recovers.

In addition to chlorosis, aphids, spider mites and powdery mildew can interfere with flowering. They prevent plants from developing, slowing down the flowering process or stopping it. Used for pest control modern means on a biological or chemical basis.



Wrong variety selected

Large-leaf hydrangea has recently begun to be planted in open ground. Many of its varieties are painfully tolerant of climatic conditions in the northern and northwestern regions. If hydrangeas are given proper care, they can take root and form a healthy bush. But the gardener may not wait for flowering. The reason for the lack of flowers on the bush may be that the summer is too short. The perennial does not have time to form buds for flowering for the next season.

To enjoy the magnificent caps of hydrangea inflorescences, it is better to select unpretentious varieties. For northern latitudes white will do tree hydrangea. It is rarely affected by pests and diseases, is frost-resistant and does not die in drought. The plant will delight you with inflorescences the very next year after planting in the ground. The most popular variety in the north is the tree hydrangea variety Annabelle.

Often, even experienced gardeners are faced with the problem of a lack of flowers in their garden. This plant is demanding on growing conditions. The slightest mistake in care can lead to its buds withering and falling off, or even not appearing at all.

To ensure long and abundant flowering of young and adult bushes, you need to know what factors most often affect their flowering. In this case, you can quickly fix the problem when it appears.

The main reasons for the lack of flowering and their solution

Most often, novice flower growers make the following gross mistakes in flower care. Why garden hydrangea does not bloom:

Anomalies in the growth and development of the root system are often encountered, especially in newly acquired plants. This leads to disruption of the development of the bush and lack of flowering.

Let's look at the reasons why hydrangea does not bloom in more detail.

Preparing for winter

Hydrangea does not tolerate frost. Any drop in air temperature below 0ºC can lead to freezing of flower buds. In this case, the plant will not bloom. To protect the bush from frost, it needs to be covered for the winter.

Without waiting for autumn frosts, the leaves are torn off the bush, the branches are tied together with a rope and wrapped in covering material. The bush is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. In the spring, it is gradually freed from spruce branches, but is finally opened only with the disappearance of frost and the onset of warmth.

Trimming

In order for the plant to bloom, it must be pruned correctly. In spring, dry, old and weak branches are pruned.

All well-developed shoots from last year are not touched. Usually it is at their tops that flowers form. If an inexperienced gardener trims these shoots, the plant will not form buds and will not bloom.

Top dressing

Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil in summer and early autumn.

They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not promote flowering in any way. A fast growth shoots in the fall leads to the fact that they do not have time to ripen before the cold weather and freeze.

Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season. At the end of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to enhance the growing season. In summer, fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is used to stimulate and maintain flowering. At the beginning of September, potassium-phosphorus preparations are introduced to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter.

Root development and flowering

To flower, the bush must have a powerful root system. If the roots are poorly developed, there is no hope for early flowering. Bushes that are too young or overfed with fertilizers can take several years to form roots. And only after that such bushes bloom.

Choosing the right place to plant a bush and caring for it will allow you to overcome all difficulties and achieve annual flowering.

The flowering of a bush can also be affected by:

• Insufficient watering;
• High air temperature;
• Excess sunlight or lack thereof;
• Heavy clay soil.

Reasons for the lack of flowering in some species and varieties

U various types hydrangeas have their own reasons for the absence of flowers and buds, peculiar only to this variety. Among garden hydrangeas, the following are especially popular:

Let's look at the most likely reasons why they don't bloom.

Paniculata hydrangea is the most frost-resistant type. It tolerates cold so easily that it does not need to be covered at all for the winter. Its buds do not freeze over, since the inflorescences form on the shoots of the current year. However, this species may not bloom for some other reasons.

The main reason why paniculata hydrangea does not bloom is the unsuitable composition of the soil.. Heavy loamy soil with weak acidity is more suitable for such a plant. Light sandy soils are not acceptable for this species.

Also, very often the plant refuses to bloom due to lack of nutrition. Therefore, special attention must be paid to feeding.

Why large-leaved hydrangea does not bloom: most often due to freezing of shoots and buds. There are many varieties of this species that have varying winter hardiness.

While some of them can be grown in open ground, covered for the winter, others freeze out even with careful covering. Such varieties can only be grown in indoors like potted plants.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangeas should also be done carefully.. Flowers form on last year's shoots, which cannot be touched during pruning. If you shorten them, the flower buds will be removed and the plant will not bloom.

This species is quite frost-resistant. However, if the bushes are not covered, in severe winter conditions most of the flower buds will freeze. In summer, a frozen bush will not bloom. Therefore, the plant needs to be covered for the winter.

This species needs to be fed regularly., first with fertilizers for leaf growth, then with fertilizers for flowering. Without feeding, the plant will refuse to bloom.

The reason why tree hydrangea does not bloom may be improper watering. In dry soil, especially in summer heat, such a bush develops very slowly and never blooms.

Garden hydrangea has refused to bloom for several years now.

Your garden beauty pleased you with its annual flowering, but for several years now there have been no flowers on it. What is the reason? If the bush was protected from frost, it was fertilized and watered correctly, most probable cause lack of buds are diseases and pests. Sick or affected harmful insects the plant will not bloom.

Aphids settle on garden hydrangea, spider mites, weevils and many other pests. To kill insects, it is recommended to treat the bush with insecticides.

Hydrangea is most often affected by viral mosaic disease and fungal diseases: downy mildew and gray rot. To destroy fungi, the bush is treated fungicidal preparations. At viral infection all affected areas of the plant are cut out and burned.

Proper feeding of garden hydrangea for flowering

What to do if garden hydrangea does not bloom - perhaps the reasons are feeding. Feeding hydrangea is a mandatory procedure for correct height and flowering. Spring, summer and autumn are fundamentally different in the composition of the fertilizers used.

At the beginning of spring When leaf mass is actively growing, the plant requires nitrogen fertilizers. Usually a mixture of urea and potassium sulfate is used. One tablespoon of these substances is diluted in 10 liters of water. An adult hydrangea bush requires about 5 liters of solution. Sometimes slurry is used for irrigation, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.

At the end of spring When the period of bud formation begins, it is recommended to feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Superphosphate gives the best results. One tablespoon of this substance is dissolved in 10 liters of water. You can also use any other mineral complex fertilizer.

During summer period When the plant is actively blooming, it is fed 2-3 times with special fertilizers for flowering garden plants. It is also useful to acidify the soil in the place where the bush grows.

To do this, use whey or citric acid. The serum is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. Citric acid take on the tip of a tablespoon and dissolve in 10 liters of water.

Early autumn To strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate in 10 liters of water and water the hydrangea bushes.

Now you know why hydrangea doesn’t bloom in the garden, but what to do if you have a houseplant?

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom indoors?

IN room conditions The following reasons are possible why hydrangea refuses to bloom:

• Wrong choice of lighting;
• Unsuitable soil composition for the plant;
• Lack of moisture in the soil and air;
• Sudden changes in temperature;
• Bush age.

So that the plant in the room blooms every year, it must be kept in a lighted place, but direct sunlight should not hit the leaves. If there is too little or too much lighting, flowering will most likely not occur.

The plant loves acidified soil. Also for indoor varieties it shouldn't be very heavy. Clay soil won't do.

It is better to choose a purchased fertile soil mixture without clay, but with a small amount peat Also, we must not forget about the annual transplantation of the bush into new soil so that it blooms long and profusely.

The flower does not tolerate dry soil and too dry air. For creating optimal conditions For its growth and flowering, it is necessary to keep the earthen ball in the pot always moist, and spray the leaves with settled water.

A sharp change in temperature in the room where the flower grows should not be allowed. In such conditions, it does not grow buds. If the buds have already formed, then a sharp drop in temperature may cause them to fall off.

Over time, the plant, even with good care, stops blooming. It is recommended to grow the bush for no more than 4-5 years, after which it is better to replace the plant with a young one. You can read more about caring for hydrangea at home.