How to assemble wooden fence sections. How to properly build a wooden fence with your own hands. Initial stage of construction

The fence belongs to the elements garden landscape. In addition to their direct “responsibilities” - protecting the site from unauthorized access and indicating the boundaries of private households, fences play an important role in the aesthetic arrangement of the territory. There is a fence different types, configuration and texture, but the most popular in decorative meaning was and remains wooden version. In addition, you can make such a fence yourself, using all your imagination as a craftsman.

Making a wooden fence is quite simple compared to its metal counterpart. This option has many advantages with minimal disadvantages. For the construction of wooden fencing you can use various material– boards with different breeds trees: beech, pine, larch or oak. Coniferous wood is especially valued. Each master chooses the material at his own discretion, because the main thing is that the wooden fence is of good quality and lasts a long time.

How to make a fence correctly

Wood fences can be divided into 2 groups: hedges and palisades. Also, such fences vary in design (picket picket, wattle fence, bamboo fence, ranch, lattice and other fence design options).

The most popular and simple ones are picket fences, as well as those made by a continuous row of boards. Regardless of what kind of fence you plan to build, you definitely need to carry out preparatory work according to its structure:

  • clear the area for wooden fence(remove trash, pull out grass or weeds, uproot stumps and roots of old trees, if any);
  • dismantle the old fence;
  • draw up a design diagram of the future picket fence, where to mark the location of the gate, taking into account boundary boundaries and signs;
  • choose and buy everything necessary materials for the construction of a fence (wood, nails or construction screws treated with an anti-corrosion agent, cement to stabilize the fence support, beams and logs, paint);
  • prepare tools (hammer, hacksaw, shovel, crowbar, hole drill, tamper, cord and pegs for marking the area, wheelbarrow, mixing container cement mortar or concrete mixer).

Service life of a wooden fence

A wooden fence has a service life of about 8 years. However, if you properly care for it and repair it on time, then this period increases 3 times. A good wooden fence can last more than 30 years, although fences from historical wooden architecture are known to be over 50 years old.

The main factors for the durability of wooden fences are:

  • quality of building material - wood (soft or hard wood, manufacturer);
  • good quality and correct installation;
  • operating conditions.

Manufacturers determine the quality of a material by its likely wear resistance. Also, the service life of the fence depends on how carefully it is handled.

The advantages of wooden fences are:

  • environmentally friendly - absolutely clean natural material which does no harm environment, the sanded fence is pleasant to the touch, it does not pick up sunlight, which is important for closely growing plants;
  • variability - compared to the factory version, a metal profile, which is usually installed in a vertical position, can be worked with wood various options– horizontally, vertically, diagonally, interlacing, and also use boards of various lengths, widths and thicknesses;
  • ease of installation - when installing a wooden fence, no special skills, thorough concreting or a large number of people are required, since a wooden fence is not heavy and can be easily handled by one person;
  • aesthetics - the natural beauty of wood leads in the selection of materials for the future fence; it looks great in any landscape design solution.

It is worth considering that wood is “afraid” of exposure to moisture, since over time it begins to rot, turn black, and become covered with mold spots. To delay these unpleasant moments, it is necessary to carefully care for the wooden fence and carry out antiseptic prophylaxis for it in a timely manner. You should also pay attention to the flammability of this building material and apply special means for its impregnation and protection to prevent fire.

Wooden fence design

Modern, wooden fences have different design in any format that provides a visual impression. Such a fence - traditional version for Russian villages, holiday villages or country cottages.

The tree is beautifully decorated, covered with various paints or varnishes, it fits harmoniously into any landscape composition. The design of a wooden fence depends on the preferences, imagination of the owner, as well as the overall compositional background. The most original fences are obtained using the following types of fences:

  • solid - made in the form of a palisade made of stakes or round logs, slabs, edged boards;
  • checkerboard or overlap option - boards are laid in a horizontal, vertical or diagonal position;
  • “braiding” - boards are fixed between support pillars, either from the inside or the outside, by braiding them;
  • – a combination of boards with round logs as support, a classic option;
  • wicker fence - vines, tree branches, twigs are used;
  • lattice fencing - slats are used;
  • a fence in the style of a cowboy ranch - the exotic horizontal bars are attractive with brutality, it is recommended to combine them with a massive concrete or stone base.

Whatever fence design you choose, it is worth considering its role in the overall compositional picture and functionality.

It is a mistake to believe that modern wooden fences do not gain a second life and do not gain widespread popularity. Since wood is a practical and relatively inexpensive material, the decision to use it to fence residential buildings and summer cottages has always been quite common. There are many options for such fencing, and most of them can be built yourself from commercially available timber.

Beautiful wooden fence made horizontally installed boards

Types of wooden fences

All wooden fences used for the area around a private house or cottage are built from two parts - supports (otherwise known as pillars) and spans (sections) installed between them. When they talk about some kind of fencing, they mean exactly the method of filling the spans, because the supports can be made of different materials.

To choose suitable design, and then build a wooden fence with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the most popular options:

  1. A regular or figured picket fence, assembled from slats on two crossbars attached to posts.
  2. Traditional wickerwork that came to us from time immemorial.
  3. A solid wooden fence made from small logs with ends pointed at 45° (picket fence).
  4. The so-called checkerboard, where boards are nailed to both sides of the crossbars in a checkerboard pattern so that there are no openings.
  5. Sections of boards nailed vertically or horizontally overlapping each other. The design resembles blinds.
  6. Ranch wood fences. They are a fence made of horizontal poles nailed to posts at a great distance.

In addition to the listed types of home fencing, which have to be assembled from individual parts, ready-made ones are used in the form of frames with various fillings - gratings, slats, wicker.

When choosing a type of fence, you should consider what role the wooden fence should play and where it is planned to be installed. In practice, for the front side of a private house, a decorative, solid picket fence and “blinds” are most often used, less often “” and wattle fence. Ranch post fences, originally designed to enclose livestock, are used for fencing land plots or gardens at the rear.

Preparation of materials for the fence

Before you make a wooden fence, you need to select and purchase timber for it. If you are planning to build a picket fence, then the following wood products will be suitable for its installation:

  • edged boards of the same width;
  • croakers;
  • figured pickets cut on a machine;
  • small diameter logs.

The dimensions of the picket fences do not have to be the same in height. Planks of various lengths are selected in such an order that the lower ends are on the same horizontal line, and the upper ends form bulges or depressions, creating a wave effect. During the flight you can make several such waves.


Fence from wooden picket fence shaped like a wave

Long trunks with a diameter of up to 150 mm, completely cleared of bark, are suitable for a stockade. This measure is extremely necessary, because various tree pests live in the bark, which will quickly bring your new fence to a state of rottenness. If the bottom of the palisade rests on the ground, the lower ends of the logs should be treated with bitumen.


Fence palisade on a stone foundation

They will use a double-sided fence for a private house (checkerboard) wide boards, maybe uncircumcised. It is advisable to select them approximately the same width and completely remove the bark. Fences resembling vertical or horizontal blinds are made from the same timber.


Checkerboard fence with horizontal boards

You need to make a wattle fence from vines or flexible rods of small diameter (up to 4 cm). There is no need to clear them of bark; this is too labor-intensive an operation. The rods are prepared by cutting into cold period years, when the movement of juices inside the tree has not yet begun


Wooden fence- wattle of branches

For a fence on metal poles, you need to select rolled steel of the appropriate sizes in advance. It is most convenient to work with profile pipes with a cross-section of 60x60 mm; there is no point in taking more. Conventional ones are also used round pipes, purchased at the nearest scrap metal collection point.

Selection of wood species and its processing

What it is not recommended to build wooden fences from is birch. This breed is influenced weather conditions It begins to rot quite quickly, which is why the fence around the house will not last even 10 years. Of the most common and affordable species for fences, the following are used:

  • pine;
  • aspen;
  • alder;
  • larch.

Coniferous trees are characterized by a high resin content, due to which they successfully resist the effects of moisture, subject to proper processing and constant care. The best option– construction of a fence made of larch, which is not afraid of either rain or cold. If you wish and have the funds, you can make a fence from valuable species wood - oak or ash, their dense structure also tolerates precipitation well.

Wicker wooden fences use flexible rods and branches various breeds, including fruit:

  • nut;
  • willow, willow;
  • maple, poplar;
  • mulberry;
  • Apple tree;
  • cherry.

When buying wood for building a fence, you should make sure that it is well dried, otherwise your structure will lose its appearance after 2-3 cold seasons. Drying out naturally, the timber will begin to crack, warp and deform. Drying the wood can be done at home under a canopy, which will take at least 1 year. This condition does not apply to wicker fences, where, on the contrary, good flexibility of the branches is required.

In addition to drying, timber requires antiseptic treatment to prevent rotting and destruction by various insect pests. Great way– apply a continuous layer of resin or special bitumen impregnation to the wood. But you can’t cover the entire fence with bitumen, which is why the technique is used only for protection underground parts wooden pillars.

For antiseptic treatment, colorless commercially available compounds are used (Biosept, Novotex), as well as Swedish paint, made at home using the following algorithm:

  1. Cook a paste from 550 g of flour dissolved in 3 liters of water.
  2. Strain the paste so that there are no lumps left, put on low heat.
  3. Add 240 g of copper sulfate and table salt, to stir thoroughly.
  4. While stirring, pour 220 ml of drying oil and 230 g of red lead into the solution.
  5. Bring the volume of water to 4.5 liters and let the paint cool.

Construction of the supporting part of the fence

The first thing you need to do is mark the area for the wooden fence with your own hands. Having retreated the required distance from the house, you should stretch the cord along the installation line of the future fence. Then, in the places where the pillars are installed, you need to drive stakes into the ground with the following calculation:

  • the optimal distance between supports is 2.5 m with a fence height of up to 200 cm;
  • if you plan to install a fence higher than 200 cm, then to contain the high wind load on the posts, it is better to reduce the distance between them to 2 m;
  • The posts of low fences (up to 120 cm) can be spaced up to 3 m apart.

If you do not use ready-made sections of a standard size, then divide the entire length into equal intervals, taking into account the listed recommendations. Then proceed with the installation of the supporting part made of wood or using metal elements(pipes, channels, corners). You can combine wood with metal by fixing a steel pipe in the ground and attaching a 100x100 mm timber post to it.

There are 4 ways to install support posts in the ground:

  1. Driving a post into the ground to a depth of at least 0.8 m and then compacting the soil around it.
  2. Digging or drilling a hole 40 cm deep and driving a post another 40 cm below its level. After compacting the bottom, the hole is filled with concrete. The name of the technique is the construction of a concrete collar.
  3. Zabutovka. The hole is dug to its full depth (0.8 m), then compacted, a stand is installed and backfilled with stones with compaction. The gaps between them are filled with a liquid clay solution.
  4. Full concreting. The same pit with the installed support is filled with concrete from bottom to top.

Methods for installing metal poles

Since wooden fences are not very heavy, but experience lateral loads from the wind, the most reliable methods are concreting and backfilling. Simple driving and posts with a concrete collar are appropriate when low altitude fencing or its low windage, when there are many gaps between the elements.

Frame assembly

At this stage, the installation of horizontal crossbars is carried out, connecting the pillars with each other and serving as the basis for fastening the span filling elements. The frame is assembled using the following methods:

  1. A beam of 40x60 mm or larger is nailed directly to the wooden posts. The joints of adjacent bars should be located in the center of the support.
  2. The same, only for the horizontal beam in the column, a sample is made, and fastening is carried out using both nails and self-tapping screws.
  3. The easiest way to attach a jumper to an iron pipe is to drill in both pieces through hole and pass a bolt through them. The beam is securely attached to the rack with a nut.
  4. TO steel pipes segments are welded metal corners or stripes. Holes are drilled in them and the timber is again bolted.

If you decide to install a fence with horizontal elements in the form of unedged boards, slats or logs near a private house, then you will need one lintel - at the top of the posts. To attach a picket fence you need 2 crossbars, to install a “checkerboard” - three. It is assumed that a wooden fence has standard height– 2 m, with other parameters the number of crossbars may vary.

The construction of a fence with elements in the form of slightly open blinds is somewhat different. The supports should be tied together with one beam on top, and the visor will then be attached to it. And for installation wooden planks at an angle on the pillars you will have to install 2 wide boards vertically on each side.

Final installation of spans

This The final stage assembly, during which the installation of filling parts is carried out - pickets, palisade logs or checkerboard boards. Traditionally, 2 types of fasteners are used - nails and galvanized screws. So that a wooden fence near a private house is reliable and lasts long years, follow these recommendations when installing it:

  • Attach the picket fence strips to the lintels with outside, driving 2 nails at each point for rigidity;
  • when assembling a double-sided fence, nail the front boards first, and then the back ones;
  • use a building level, checking each plank;
  • the logs of the palisade should be nailed on the reverse side;
  • Attach fencing slats in the form of slightly open blinds from the ends through boards secured to posts;
  • horizontally oriented boards must be attached directly to the posts.

Finished wooden fences are often protected on top with a canopy, which at the same time plays a decorative role. The easiest way is to make it from thin metal with polymer coating or remnants of metal tiles. The construction of the fence is completed by painting all wooden parts in the desired color or varnishing.

Wooden fences have undeservedly faded into the background. And completely in vain! Of course, in terms of stability and reliability, fencing made of boards is significantly inferior to its brick and concrete counterparts, but a minimum of time, effort and money is spent on erecting a wooden fence.

At the same time, you can handle all the necessary activities yourself. By showing a little imagination and doing everything according to the instructions, you will create a truly original and interesting design.


What to build a fence from?

Before starting construction, we pay due attention to the choice of source material. For the construction of the fence we use only high-quality dense wood. The wood of oak, aspen, ash, Siberian larch, alder, and mulberry is perfect.

Among all the listed options, the most interesting is Siberian larch. A fence built from it will last as long as possible. If one of the main enemies of most wood species is moisture, then larch only becomes stronger from contact with water.



We limit the use of pine only to the construction of a fence panel; in the event of breakage or wear of the fence, such material can be replaced without special financial costs and effort.


Picket fence - pine

Important! And under no circumstances do we use birch to build a fence - it is extremely unstable and short-lived.

It is also important to choose quality material for the manufacture of supports. Wooden pillars will be best combined with wooden spans. You can either dig them into the ground or attach them to special metal stands (consoles) concreted in pre-created recesses.

Important! To extend the service life of wood, it must be pre-impregnated. It will reduce the intensity of the harmful effects of moisture, air, fungus and other harmful microorganisms on the building material.


To consolidate the effect, it is recommended to treat the wood with a special dye, for example, Swedish paint. It will give the material a very beautiful shade. If desired, a different color dye can be applied over the dried Swedish paint.


To prepare Swedish paint we will need:

  • copper sulfate– 250 g;
  • salt – 250 g;
  • red lead - 250 g;
  • drying oil – 230 ml;
  • flour – 570 g;
  • water - about 4.5 liters.

Following the given proportions, you can prepare any required amount of dye.


The paint is quite economical. About 200-250 ml of dye is spent to cover 1 m2 of surface. The given recipe allows you to prepare golden-colored paint. If you want to get a different shade, replace red lead with manganese peroxide, ocher, or another component of your choice.

Swedish paint is prepared in the following order:

  • the paste is cooked. To prepare it, stir the flour in 3 liters of water;
  • the finished paste is passed through a sieve - this allows you to remove lumps from the mixture;
  • the strained paste is put back on the fire. Salt and copper sulfate are added to the mixture. Constantly stir the mixture until the vitriol is completely dissolved;
  • While continuing to stir the paste, add drying oil to it, and then pour in a certain amount of water (usually about 1.5 liters) until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

Apply the finished paint to the wood in a double layer.


Table. How to paint a wooden fence

PaintsBinderLife time
AcrylicPolyacrylate6-20 years
Water-dispersedOrganic solvents>20 years
OilyDrying oil2-3 years
SilicateLiquid incandescent glass20 years
SiliconeSilicone resins20 years
EnamelAlkyd resin10 years

For example, you can assemble a fence using the wattle fence principle. The boards are attached in a curved state. Trying to straighten out, they will fit quite tightly to the support pillars.

Another great option is to fill the space between the supports. wood siding. We fasten the sheathing boards starting from the bottom, maintaining a 25 mm overlap.

Fences made in the form of blinds look no less original. By laying the boards with a downward slope towards the street, you will create an invisible fence that is resistant to wind loads.



The boards can also be nailed at the ends. To perform the highest quality cladding, we first make markings on each rack.

If metal posts are installed, they can be hidden by sheathing the posts on both sides. We close the metal supports on top with wooden plugs.

If desired, you can make the fence more original using wooden support posts. We make inclined cuts-grooves in the supports, and then insert the ends of the lamellas into them. Additionally, we fasten each strip with self-tapping screws. To hide the fastening points, we cover the screws with wooden covers. We crown the upper part of the supports with plugs.

To make the fence look more original and modern, we can fill the boards with a small gap (up to 15 mm). At the same time, the narrower the boards are (of course, within reasonable limits), the more interesting the fence design will be.

You can also use boards of different widths. When choosing this cladding method, be sure to ensure that the pattern on adjacent sections matches.

There are a lot of wooden design options. Choose the one you like and start building the fence. You already have all the knowledge necessary for this.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Good luck!

Video – DIY wooden fence

DIY decorative fence. Photo







The territory of a private house or cottage is always transformed when decorative vegetation spreads out on it in green waves. An abundance of flowers, fruit trees, or neat beds with all your favorite vegetables, greens and berries is always pleasing to the eye. Using bio-soil, https://bio-grunt.ru/torf-kupit.html, it will not be difficult to grow and maintain all this in more variety and in the best condition. But it is also important to protect and preserve the site from uninvited guests and unwanted weeds. In this article we will look at how to make a fence with your own hands that will protect the fragrant, green diversity of your personal plot.

It is not surprising that for people who have the opportunity to buy land plot and erecting a residential building on it will not amount to special labor and protect him. The only question is what material to use to do this?

Unlike cottages for several families, where taking care of this lies on the shoulders of construction organization, in a particular case, it all depends on the personal desire of the homeowner.

Quite a high percentage of owners country dachas Today, corrugated sheeting is chosen as the most economical option. This is done quickly and does not require large financial costs. However, in the end, the appearance of such a structure creates some kind of fence from the outside world. Trying to avoid the factor of peculiar isolation and monotony, they prefer to install wooden fences.

Main functions and design solutions

Wood is a special material. Working with him gives rise to many design ideas. Sometimes it is very difficult to decide which design is most suitable. To make the task easier, you need to decide what functions should be performed.


Most often, the main ones are: determining the boundaries of the site; protection from the entry of strangers into the territory, as well as persons located within the personal territory; protection from noise and wind; restricting access to travel roads; creating a decorative background.

Design solutions are presented in three definitions external forms: solid closed, lattice type with gaps and combined (for example, paired with brick).

Selecting the type of fencing

An additional component is the choice of design option. If you don’t get carried away with listing all the types and focus on one specific one, then, perhaps, most often they prefer “classics”. Solid or with gaps, covered with edged boards.

Initial stage of construction

If at the same time there are concerns that you can accidentally seize part of someone else’s territory, then for insurance it is better to get a cadastral plan. You should definitely indicate on the diagram the height, size and location where the gate will be located.

Can be applied symbols all large structures, houses, outbuildings, and planting areas located on the site (garden, vegetable garden). This will help you visualize the future picture and possibly make some adjustments.


Material selection

Most often suitable for corner support posts profile pipe square section 60x60 mm. For the remaining racks, which are located between the corner ones at an equal distance from each other, a profile pipe with a cross section of 50x50 mm is suitable.

More suitable for “classics” conifers spruce, cedar or pine. Fine, strong wood is without a doubt better for protective purposes. Usually they are in the lead due to their protection from dampness and rotting. An additional advantage is their low price.

The main stages of fence construction

The actual construction itself includes three stages, which have already been mentioned above: installation support pillars, fastening transverse joists and frame sheathing.

Each of them contains a certain range of work. In general, the workflow involves the following actions:

  • Wooden or metal pegs are hammered into the markings. Twine is stretched between them;
  • Pre-dug holes 0.8 meters deep. At the bottom of each of them there is a sand bed 10-15 centimeters thick. Next, the profile pipe is installed and secured. The pit is filled with crushed stone to a height of twenty-five centimeters. Carry out thorough compaction. The supports are fixed and filled with concrete;
  • Transverse joists are being installed. Fastening is done using metal corners (35x35). There are two corners for each support;
  • They make either continuous cladding of the frame, or with alternating boards. The top can be either a straight line or with protrusions of the supports above the skin by 10-15 centimeters;
  • Since the material is wood, it is necessary to treat it with fire-prevention agents;


For painting, it is best to purchase special paint compositions recommended for such surfaces and designed for any atmospheric influence (sun, rain, wind).

Coloring is considered economical option. Dark colors are always more popular. After all, this is street structure and is not protected from dust and dirt, and accordingly light colors create the risk of repainting it again.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden fence

In the process of installing and operating such a fence, you can come to a logical conclusion about the main advantages and evaluate them no longer unfoundedly, but taking into account your direct participation in its construction.

The list of advantages includes the following components: environmental friendliness, variety of tree species, relatively low labor intensity for installation, easy solution to the replacement problem.


Besides positive aspects, the design also has its drawbacks. These include the following: fire hazard (special treatment is required), susceptibility to rotting (small pests can settle in the pores), short service life.

Photo of a wooden fence with your own hands

Wooden fences are considered the most short-lived. After all, not everyone knows (or does not want to know) the secrets of wood and its processing.

An untreated pine fence will, indeed, last no more than 10 years, and then only if the lower part of the post is reliably waterproofed. If you are making temporary fencing for the period of construction and improvement, then this is a completely justified decision.


It’s another matter when a tree is chosen as building material not because of its cheapness, but because of its design capabilities. After all, wood is considered the most malleable decorative processing material.



This is what the fence looks like from the first photo from the side of the yard. Agree, no less attractive...



Pay attention to the outline of the boards: how much “attention” was paid to each of them, how carefully the edges were worked out and the corners were smoothed... The photo shows sliding gates all in the same yard.

How many exist? design techniques: firing, tinting, aged effect, combination with forged overlays, and finally, just perfect sanding and coating with yacht varnish.




Design options for wooden fences are given at the end of the article.

Having invested work (or cash) in creating a masterpiece of wooden architecture, you want to admire it for as long as possible. Therefore there are a number important points, which the owner of the estate should know.

Pledge OF LONGEVITY


Choose for the fence those types of wood that differ high density: Siberian larch, oak, mulberry, acacia, aspen, alder, ash. By the way, a fence made of Siberian larch can be called eternal - on the contrary, the wood of this tree grows stronger when it comes into contact with water.


Limit the use of pine to creating a fence panel - if it wears out quickly, it is not difficult to replace it. Under no circumstances should you install a fence made of birch - it is the most unstable wood.



Support pillars for a wooden fence they can be wooden, metal or made of masonry.

The last two options will serve as a reliable support for many years. But don't write off the tree. It doesn't have to be buried in the ground.

To extend the service life, you can use special metal consoles (stands), which are concreted, and then a wooden beam is attached to them (see link on the side).



The most vulnerable part sawn wood - the one where the cut is made across the grain. A horizontal arrangement of boards or a protective canopy over vertical ones will help extend the life of a wooden fence.

Wood is vulnerable when it comes into direct contact with air: when it is wet it swells and is affected by fungus; too dry it causes it to crack. Risks can be reduced through mandatory treatment: impregnation with an antiseptic plus painting special dyes(Swedish paint, yacht varnish, impregnation with hot drying oil).


SWEDISH PAINT
  • iron (copper) sulfate – 260 g,
  • red lead – 260 g,
  • table salt – 260 g,
  • rye flour – 580 g,
  • drying oil or linseed oil– 240 ml,
  • water - about 4.5 l.

Composition consumption is approximately 200-300 ml/m2. Color – golden. If you require a different shade, then red lead can be replaced with ocher or manganese peroxide.

Cooking coloring composition as follows: mix the flour with 3 liters of water and boil the paste, pass it through a sieve to avoid lumps, put it back on the fire and add iron sulfate and salt, stirring constantly until the vitriol is completely dissolved, continuing to stir, first pour in the oil in small portions ( drying oil) then water (until a liquid homogeneous consistency is obtained).

The paint must be applied immediately because it thickens quickly. Therefore, it is better to work with two or three people, or divide the composition into smaller portions and prepare it as it is used.

WOODEN FENCE FRAME


The pitch of the support pillars is 2-3 m.


As supports, choose a round or square beam with a section of 100x100 mm or metal pipe cross-section 40x40, 40x60, 60x60 mm (with a wall thickness of 2 mm), for gates 80x80 and 100x100 mm (with a wall thickness of 3 mm). The wider the support spacing and the greater the load (weight and wind), the larger size and wall thickness.


So for a fence-blind with a two-meter section, choose the minimum parameters from the above, for a continuous one, and even with forged overlays - the maximum.

If there is no choice of lumber (wood species), then budget pine is carefully treated with protective chemicals, and the posts must be installed on a concrete base.



For horizontal crossbars, a beam with a cross section of 30 (sufficient) x 50 (and wider) mm is used.

For mounting wooden crossbars on metal pole“ears” with holes for fastening are welded to it. To avoid welding work During installation, you can purchase ready-made posts with fasteners.

The cladding (shield) is covered with a 25 mm thick board. The width varies depending on the design.

Everything else technological sequence, the depth and method of laying, up to the chemical treatment of the frame, is the same as for a fence made of corrugated sheets:

  • the frame is mounted,
  • paint,
  • after that they stuff the shield.

METHOD OF ATTACHING THE FRAME AND BOARDS


The most durable connection will be with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are selected taking into account the following requirement: into the body wooden post(crossbars) should include 30-40 mm of thread.

Each board is secured with at least two screws on each edge.



There are options for a non-standard approach to fastening boards. Here is an example of a fence assembled according to the wattle fence principle. The curved board, trying to straighten itself, is pressed tightly against the support. Although, given the flexibility of wood in a humid environment, additional fixation Each board will still have to be done.




For the fence in the photo above, we used wood siding. Begin attaching the boards from bottom to top with an overlap of 2.5 cm.


An interesting new product is a woodenFENCE-BLINDS.


If the boards are made with a downward slope towards the street, you will get an invisible fence that will not experience strong wind loads. There are several ways to secure boards at an angle.

In the photo on the right, wooden slats are nailed to a rack, which, in turn, is fixed to a support post.




Another way- nail the boards from the ends. It is important to clearly mark the wooden stand. This option is relevant for a fence with metal supports. When all sections are filled along the front and back parts, they nail a board that will cover the entire “kitchen”. A wooden cap must be placed on top of the post.

Are you interested in the question of how to mount the next section if the adjacent one restricts access to it? It is simply pushed slightly first towards the street, then towards the plot (or vice versa) to fix the lamella. Fastening to a metal support is carried out after installing adjacent sections.




Third option for wooden beam support. Inclined cuts-grooves are made in it, into which the end of the lamellas is inserted. Each one must be screwed on with a self-tapping screw, and then a wooden overlay is made from the front part, which will hide the attachment points.




Ultimately, a wooden shutter fence will look like this. Be sure to nail the end caps to the top of the post.




Simple horizontal fastening of boards looks boring. But if you make small (up to 1.5 cm) gaps between them, the section’s canvas will take on a more modern sound. How at the same board (within reason), the more interesting and modern the finished fence looks.




It’s also a good idea to alternate boards of different widths - the main thing is that adjacent sections repeat the pattern.












Don't ignore unedged board. Besides the fact that it costs less, it also looks more exclusive. The truth is not suitable for all site design styles. It will look win-win in a forest area.




Here is another option for a wooden fence in a brutalist style.



Jigsaw, wood carving knife, sanding paper and skillful hands you will need to do this original fence with the effect of a time-worn board.




Have you ever put together puzzles? So, to create these fence sections (pictured above), you first need to draw them and carve them out of boards. Each plank of this fence has its own clear size and bending, that is, first they create a template, then cut it out, chamfer it, grind it, and treat it with protective chemicals. And only then are they brought down to the section. And how the elements are fixed to each other is the master’s secret...




For the slab fence in the photo above, all the wane was carefully selected, because it is unacceptable that some sections of the boards were too thin in thickness. The bark was removed, each plank was given piquant contours with a jigsaw, and the surface was sanded. All in all, cheap price the material is covered with painstaking labor.




Copy this design I recommend exactly in relation to the original, or first create a project (span diagram) of the entire fence, choosing an alternation of drawings. And only after making sure that the fence canvas as a whole looks harmonious can we begin implementation.

Don't get carried away with such a bright texture for everyone wooden elements yard An exclusive wins only when it is unique.

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