How to make a metal front door. Self-production of iron doors - drawings, materials and installation instructions. Stages of installing insulation on the door leaf

In the current conditions, anyone can easily find on the market metal door according to your preferences and tastes. Numerous companies offer products of the most different designs. However, quite often there is a need to make such a door yourself.

Steel door

Making metal doors with your own hands can be dictated by a number of reasons:

unique design or geometric requirements;
desire to use the original design solution;
the use of specific materials;
desire to receive the product High Quality(as they say, “if you want to do something beautifully, do it yourself”);
desire to save money.

Of course, making a door out of metal with your own hands cannot be called an easy task, but with some skill, the necessary knowledge and tools, you can cope with this task in a fair amount of time. short term. One of the main conditions is careful adherence to the sequence of operations.

Necessary materials, equipment and tools

To make metal doors you will need following materials, equipment and tools:

metal corner;
steel sheet thickness from 1.5 mm;
door hinges(their number depends on the strength of the hinges themselves and the weight of the door);
fittings: lock, door handle, etc.;
material for sheathing (plywood, board or veneer - depending on your preferences and availability of materials);
construction foam;
drill;
anchor bolts;
grinder with a disc designed for cutting metal;
welding table or trestles for assembling the product.

But manufacturing and installing metal doors is a creative endeavor. Therefore, the above list can be considered approximate to some extent: a lot depends on the type and design of the door you decide to choose. For an entrance door, for example, it is worth taking a steel sheet of greater thickness or creating a “sandwich” type structure, which consists of two sheets of steel with foam plastic or other insulation between them.

Making a door frame

Work must begin with accurate measurements of the opening. Most often, a standard opening has a width of 800-900 mm and a height of 2000 mm. In order to avoid errors in measurements, it is necessary to “get” to the end of the wall (concrete or brick) by knocking down a layer of paint and plaster in a short area and making a cutout using a hammer and chisel in the vertical casing, if any.

This operation should be performed on all four sides from the outside and inside of the opening. When you have decided on the true outlines of the opening, you can take measurements.
After the dimensions of the opening are precisely determined, we begin making metal doors with our own hands.

Dimensions metal box the doors must be such that there is a gap of 20 mm wide between the ends of the walls delimiting the opening and the frame. It will allow you to adjust the position of the door during installation if the opening is skewed. Upon completion installation work This gap is sealed with construction foam.

First of all, you need to cut a corner to the size of the box (with a shelf length, for example, 50x25 mm) of the required length and lay it out on some plane (preferably on a welding table) in the shape of a rectangle. Instead of a welding table, you can use sawhorses calibrated for flatness. To make sure that all corners of the box are equal to 90 degrees, you need to measure the lengths of the diagonals. They must be equal. Then the corners are welded.

Manufacturing of door leaf

The manufacture of a metal door begins with determining the dimensions of the frame. It must be sized so that between it and the box there is a gap of 20 mm in height and 15 mm in width (see below for the distribution of gaps around the perimeter). Then a corner of the required length is cut off (a 40x25 corner is suitable) and laid out on the table in the shape of a rectangle, after which the frame is welded.

Immediately after this, you should make a cutout in the profile with an angle grinder to install the lock. In order to facilitate the work on the door trim, they hammer into the frame wooden slats required length. Next, a loop profile is welded to the hinges and the box. This is done to make it easier welding work.

It is necessary to very carefully measure the distance between the hinges on the frame and the door frame to achieve a complete match. Otherwise, problems may arise when hanging the door. Then you need to lay the door frame inside the frame and ensure that all sides are parallel.

The next step in the technology for manufacturing metal doors involves preparing the door leaf. The steel sheet is cut in such a way that the sheet covers the opening by 1 cm, and on the side of the lock - by 1.5 cm. After cutting, scale remains on the edge of the sheet, which must be removed.

The prepared sheet is laid in such a way that the top and bottom edges of the box protrude by 10 mm. From the side of the lock the box should protrude by 5 mm, and from the side of the awnings by 15 mm. In several places we carefully grab the sheet to the box.

Then we turn the box over so that the sheet is at the bottom. Inside the box is a door frame.

We set the gaps between the frame and the box:

from below (from the threshold side) – 10 mm;
top – 10 mm;
from the lock side – 8 mm;
from the canopy side – 7 mm.

To fix the gaps, you can use improvised means: strips of metal of different thicknesses, discs from an angle grinder, etc.

Now you can weld the frame to the sheet

It is necessary to cook in small sections: the seam should be no longer than 40 mm, the distance between the beginnings is 200 mm. Welding should begin from the middle to the edges of the product in reverse steps with different sides. The product must be allowed to cool periodically.

Installation of door hinges

Before proceeding with the installation of hinges (canopies), it is necessary to lift the product above the plane of the welding table. To do this, place pieces or profiles under the box. Metal door diagram

To make loops, a steel rod with a diameter of 20 mm is used. To facilitate the operation of the hinges, a steel ball from a bearing is placed in each of them. The hinges are assembled and fixed to the structure so that the upper and lower hinges are coaxial. Then the hinges are welded to the frame and door leaf.

The upper part of the loop is welded to the sheet, and the lower part to the box.
After you have welded the hinges, cut off the tacks that secured the sheet to the box.

The production of metal entrance doors is completed by cleaning the welds and painting. Staining should be done regardless of what finishing you plan to do next. A coat of paint will prevent rust from occurring, protecting the metal from corrosion.

Lock installation

To install the lock in the flange of the door frame corner, make a cutout of such a size that the lock fits into it without a gap. After installing the lock, you need to mark all the holes: mounting, key, handle, etc. According to the completed markings, it is necessary to drill holes of the required diameter.

In addition, you need to make holes around the entire perimeter of the door for screws with a diameter of 4 mm, with which boards will be screwed to the door from the inside (one of them should have a cutout for a lock). For fastening, you can use screws 35-40 mm long.

All cutouts for the latch and various latches in the box are made only when the box is installed and the door is hung. At the installation stage of the lock, they also make peephole.

Finishing works

Production of non-standard metal doors involves original finish. The door can be sheathed wooden planks or canvas, and also upholster soft material or cover it with a film with a wood pattern and texture. A less labor-intensive option is to simply paint the door. At the same time, decorative elements can be welded onto the canvas. forged elements, which will transform the appearance of the product.

As you can see, anyone who is at least a little familiar with repair work and knows. While admiring the result of your labor, do not forget to note that your decision to do this work yourself allowed you to save a significant amount.

According to the described algorithm, almost all doors are made of metal. Exceptions occur only in production special products, for example, when manufacturing fireproof metal doors.

Sections of the article:

On the entrance door market steel structures rightfully occupy one of the leading positions. The manufacturing technology and positive characteristics of the material make it possible to prevent unauthorized entry into the premises and withstand all illegal attempts to open it by selecting door keys, destroying or deforming the canvas. The range of finished products in specialized stores is quite extensive, but making an iron door with your own hands is not only possible, but also accessible to virtually everyone. It is only important to have the desire and experience of working with a welding machine, as well as to strictly adhere to the sequence when working with materials and tools.

To the main reasons for production steel doors independently include:

Non-standard dimensions of the final structure;
The embodiment of an exclusive designer's idea;
Use of special materials;
Opportunity to obtain a high quality product;
Economic component.

A high-quality iron door has high protective properties, provides sufficient heat and sound insulation, and has a long service life.

Iron structure design

The process of manufacturing an iron door should begin with the creation of a drawing, which indicates the actual dimensions of the product. The resulting diagram will serve as the basis for the assembly and subsequent installation of the door.

You need to start by measuring the width and height of the doorway. The resulting measurements are transferred to paper, and a diagram of the future design is drawn with the specified width and height of the door leaf.

The standard size of the metal structure is 900 mm x 2000 mm. If the dimensions are larger, then an additional block is installed on top, closed sheet iron, glass, grille, or a blind or hinged block is welded on the side. All elements are specified in the project.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm smaller size doorway. The resulting gap will subsequently greatly simplify the installation process of the box and allow it to be adjusted if necessary.
The number of hinges is calculated taking into account the weight of the structure; as a rule, 2 - 4 canopies are used. To evenly distribute the load, the hinges are welded at the same distance from each other. In this case, the first and last ones are welded at a distance of 15 cm from the outer edge of the door.

The next step is to strengthen the door frame with additional stiffeners. The main stiffening element is located in the middle of the door leaf, and additional stiffening ribs can be placed from the corners of the product or from the hinges, which will evenly distribute the load over the entire area of the door. The main thing is that the stiffeners do not interfere with the insertion of the lock or the installation of the handle and eye. Stiffening ribs must ensure the strength of the finished product; their number is also chosen at your own discretion.

Materials and tools

TO necessary tools for assembling an iron door with your own hands include:

Electric drill;
Screwdriver;
Grinder equipped with a cutting disc for metal;
Clamps;
Set of files, grinding machine;
Set of measuring tools.

To materials for manufacturing standard design relate:

Steel sheet (2 - 3 mm thickness with dimensions 100 x 200 cm);
Metal corners for the frame (3.2 x 3.2 cm 6 r.m.);
Profile pipe for the box and stiffeners (5x 2.5 cm 9 lm);
Door awnings;
Reinforcing plates for attaching the door frame to the wall (40 x 4 cm, thickness 2 - 3 mm, 4 pcs.);
Door fittings (locks, handles);
Anti-corrosion protective compounds, dye;
Polyurethane foam, anchor bolts.

The range of door hardware and locks is quite diverse, the choice depends solely on personal preferences. But the most popular mechanisms are locks with bolts on three sides. Such products are much more difficult to install, but their protective functions are much higher.

If the iron door is intended for utility rooms, you can use a more simplified and low-cost financially option: the function of a rigidity amplifier will be performed by a reinforcing rod.

Assembly steps

The process of assembling a metal structure consists of the following steps.

Collecting boxes

Frame parts are cut from profile pipe and placed in the form of a rectangle on the welding table. All dimensions are checked again, including diagonally. A control measurement will allow you to set the angles exactly at 90 degrees. A correctly adjusted structure is tacked by welding.

After completing the welding work, it is necessary to check the perpendicularity of the sides and measure the distance between opposite pairs of corners. Compare source data.

If everything turned out correctly, you can begin the final welding work. Upon completion, the seams must be sanded. Then the reinforcing plates are welded to the door frame.

Assembling the door leaf

To assemble the leaf, it is necessary to take measurements of the inside of the door frame. On each side we retreat 7 cm - these are the dimensions of the future structure.

From metal corners, blanks are cut to the required length and undergo pre-treatment to remove burrs. The prepared corners must be laid inside the structure to form a rectangle. After that, control and measuring actions are carried out.

If any nuances appear, they must be eliminated and all parts adjusted to size. The connecting points are welded tightly.

The next step is to cut the material for the stiffeners, they are tightly welded to the door frame. It is important to take into account all the places indicated in the project for installing the lock and related fittings.

Fabrication of the sheet begins with laying the steel sheet on a welding table or trestle. The finished frame is placed on top of the sheet and a contour is drawn according to the dimensions specified in the project, while an indent of 10 cm must be made from the outer edges of the frame.

A steel sheet is cut out according to the outlined contour, and the cut sections must be polished. The prepared canvas is mounted to the frame using a welding machine.

An important point: in order to prevent distortion, welding cannot be done with a continuous seam.

The optimal welding seam is 30 mm sections with an intermediate distance of 15 - 20 mm. To avoid subsequent hidden defects, during operation, the product must periodically cool down, otherwise it may need to be repaired in the near future.

Having finished with the outer side of the door, the canvas must be turned over and the door frame placed on top.

To make it easier to fit the box to the frame, you can use pads, the thickness of which is from 2 to 5 mm; they are laid along the entire perimeter of the structure. A sealing tape will later be installed into the resulting space to improve the soundproofing qualities of the door.

When door leaf will be completely ready, special cuts are made for installation internal lock and a peephole, a hole is drilled under door handle. The edges of the holes must be sanded.
An important point: the size of the hole for the lock must simultaneously allow installation of the lock without play and provide free access to it in case of repair work.

For padlock it is necessary to provide special linings.

Installation of door hinges

The upper awnings, equipped with grooves, are attached to the door frame, and their lower parts with pins are welded to door frame. Docking seams must be sanded.

The assembled metal structure must first be cleaned of foreign particles (dust, shavings) and treated with an anti-corrosion compound. The final chord is either tinting or decorative finishing doors.

In order to understand in more detail and clearly how iron doors are assembled with your own hands, it is recommended to first study the video, which clearly shows the entire process from A to Z.

Door installation work

A box is placed in the doorway and the structure is adjusted relative to the opening; all actions are carried out using a plumb line or a building level.

Installation work on installing the door frame takes place only with its geometrically correct location. Anchor bolts are used to secure steel hinges to the wall. After which you can hang the door leaf on the awnings.

Checking the correct installation: the iron door should open and close freely, and the hinges should work smoothly and without unnecessary effort.

Installing a lock and door handle

After installing the lock, the end sides of the bolts must be rubbed with chalk and made marks on the door frame. In the marked places, holes are cut out - grooves for the crossbars.

If there is a need for additional protection of the lock, you should weld a corner of the required length to the door leaf in those areas where the bolts come out. Another way is to strengthen the door leaf in the place where the lock is installed. To do this, a 6 mm thick steel plate is welded on the inside. At this stage, it is recommended to adjust the operation of the locking mechanism and ensure that the door fits tightly to the frame.

After studying the detailed manufacturing instructions, you can understand how to properly make a metal structure. It’s quite possible to assemble an iron door with your own hands at home, the main thing is to arm yourself necessary material and a tool.

The entrance to the home must be reliably protected from penetration uninvited guests, cold and noise. These requirements are fully met welded doors. You can buy them, but if the opening has non-standard dimensions or you want something original, then you should find out how to weld iron doors with your own hands. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance; availability and minimal skills in handling it are enough.

To weld an iron door yourself you will need to prepare:

a metal sheet thickness 1.5 - 3 mm;
a pair of loops capable of withstanding loads of up to 100 kg;
40×40 and 40×20 mm;
accessories (handles, lock, peephole);
anchor bolts, mounting foam;
polystyrene foam or mineral wool;
PVA glue or “Moment” for gluing insulation;
finishing material (plywood, OSB, sheet plastic);
welding machine, grinder, electric drill with a set of drills and discs;
tape measure, square, level;
primer, solvent, metal paint, brushes, roller.

We measure and make a sketch

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the walls are made of brick or concrete. It will not be possible to install a welded metal door into an opening made of plasterboard or thick plaster. If the results of measurements of the width and height turn out to be more than 1.5 × 2 m, when drawing up the drawing, it is necessary to provide for the installation of an additional frame covered with iron on the side or on top of the door frame. The sketch indicates the dimensions of the door, the height of the hinges, lock and peephole, and the distance between the stiffeners.

Let's start welding: step-by-step process

The correct welding of metal doors depends on the condition of the opening. Therefore, it is puttied, plastered, and adjusted to the size of the door frame indicated in the drawing. The position of the sides is checked by a level.

Assembling the door frame

To be on the safe side, the opening is measured again. If there are no errors, proceed to making the frame:

Blanks are cut from a 40x40 pipe, taking into account that the size of the box is 1.5 cm smaller than the opening. This will avoid difficulties when welding the door.
The workpieces laid out on a flat surface are grabbed together.
Angles, matching diagonal sizes, and horizontal elements are checked.
If there are no distortions, complete the welding. The seams are cleaned with a grinder and a grinding wheel.
For fastening to the wall, three eyes are welded on each side with holes for anchor bolts made from a 40x4 mm metal strip. For reliability, it is also advisable to place a couple of pieces on top and bottom.

We weld the door leaf

Frame elements are cut from a 40×20 pipe so that it is 3 - 5 mm smaller than the door frame on each side.
A stiffening rib is welded vertically, dividing the frame into two equal parts. In each half, two sections of profile pipe are installed horizontally.
The sheet of iron is marked so that it overlaps the box by 1 cm at the top, bottom, on the side of the handle, and at the hinges - 0.5 cm.
Since tightness is not required, the sheathing is welded to the frame in short sections at equal intervals, alternately on each side, so that it does not “lead.”

We weld the hinges

Before installation, the canopies are lubricated with grease or other similar lubricant. This will protect them from damage during welding. Then:

the installation location of the canopies is selected at a distance of 20 - 25 cm from the lower and upper edges of the canvas;
so that the trim does not touch the door frame when opening, the hinge is installed in a slightly raised position;
check that the canopies are in one straight line and scald;
the frame is installed in the box, leveled, and the mating parts of the canopies are welded.

We cut in the lock and door handle

To install a lock in the opposite walls of the profile pipe at a height of 1 meter from the floor, two rectangular holes. So that the lock is flush, with outside the neckline is made longer. Two plates are welded into it from the inside, in which threaded holes are made for screwing the lock ears with bolts. On the contrary, a hole is made in the profile pipe of the door frame for the crossbars (tongues) and latches. After fitting, a place for the keyhole is outlined. It is first drilled and then bored to the desired shape round file.

After installation, it is installed from the outside decorative overlay and the lock handle. If the peephole is placed in the center, you will have to drill a vertical stiffener. Therefore, it is more expedient to move it to the side.

We insulate and line the door

It is best to insulate a metal entrance door with foam plastic 40 mm thick. Application mineral wool undesirable, as it absorbs moisture and then shrinks. After 2 years it completely loses its properties.

Rectangles of slightly larger sizes are cut from polystyrene foam. less space between the stiffeners. After gluing them, the remaining cracks are filled with polyurethane foam. The insulation is covered with plywood on top, secured with rivets, and covered with veneer or wallpaper. The cladding is also done with laminated or plastic panels, clapboard

The outside of the doors can also be finished with panels, but it is easier and more reliable to cover hammer paint in the following order:

the surface is cleaned with a metal brush or an attachment on a grinder;
degreasing is carried out with a solvent;
a primer corresponding to the type of paint is applied:
Using a brush, roller or spray gun, apply 2 - 3 layers of paint.

Installing the door

Installation procedure:

The frame installed in the opening is aligned with the level gauge using wooden wedges;
holes with a depth of at least 15 cm are drilled through the eyelets in the wall;
fastening is carried out with anchor bolts or driving in metal rods with a diameter of at least 12 mm, followed by welding to the eyes;
the door leaf is hung.

The gaps between the frame and the slopes are filled with mineral wool and filled with polyurethane foam. After a day, the excess foam is cut off, and a layer of cement-gypsum mortar is applied on top. It will protect the foam from destruction, as it is afraid of light.

When starting to make metal doors with your own hands, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experts on improving their security:

It is better to make the canvas from a single sheet, since even with a slight blow, the composite will be dented at the joint.
The area of the locking device should be covered with an armor plate so that it is impossible to saw through the crossbars.
To protect against drafts, it is recommended to install rubber compressor. It will also eliminate noise when closing the door.
Hinges visible from the outside are easily cut off, so it is recommended to install anti-removal bolts. Usage hidden loops risky, as they have a high probability of jamming.
To increase the level of protection, it is recommended to install two locks on the door: lever and cylinder.

The strongest design is obtained by welding the door from a profile pipe. However, if it is impossible to purchase it, you can use a corner of 40×40 and 50×50 mm. The door manufacturing technology remains the same. If you don’t have enough experience yet, during the work process you need to spare no time checking the ease of movement of the blade at all stages.

Today, not only city residents, but also the majority of country property owners prefer metal constructions. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and durable than their wooden or plastic counterparts. But in fact, many solid-looking metal doors from the budget segment can be opened with a can opener, and a crowbar for them is universal key. Not everyone can afford to install a massive, expensive structure, and high cost is not a guarantee of appropriate quality.

Therefore, craftsmen who have welding skills and the appropriate tool base prefer to make such doors themselves. In this situation, you can be confident in the strength of the frame, and in decent parameters of noise absorption and thermal insulation, and also give the appearance in the general style. FORUMHOUSE users They have also mastered the process and are sharing the results. We study their experience and prepare a metal door.

Experience - best helper
Useful tips for beginners from experienced ones

Metal entrance doors - constructive

IN standard version a metal door consists of a frame, leaf, hinges and mounting elements(plates, lugs, pins). You cannot do without certain costs for materials and components, but a self-made door will cost much less than a purchased one. The exact list of consumables depends on the design, dimensions and purpose - if for a simple frame with lining and a latch, then to enter the house the door must be multi-layered, with effective locking fittings and decorative cladding. In the second case, an approximate set of what is needed looks like this:

Metal corner(from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
Metal corner or profile pipe - for the frame, stiffeners;
Sheet of metal - for power sheathing ( optimal thickness 2-3 mm).
Thermal insulation material(mineral wool, polystyrene foam, EPS or PSB);
Components – hinges (preferably with bearings), seal, peephole, lock/locks, handle, etc.;
Finishing – wood, forging, plastic (for the inside there are various panels or laminate).

One of the most important stages is measurements; if you make a mistake, the installation of the door will become much more difficult in the future, so you should adhere to certain recommendations:

All measurements are taken not from the finishing layer, but from the rough wall;
There should be a groove left between the frame and the opening, the standard one is 2 cm (for alignment and installation seam);
The gap between the box and the canvas on the hinge side is 3 mm, on the lock side – 5 mm.

Having a working drawing with dimensions or at least a sketch will become good help, not everyone’s imagination is developed enough to imagine the end result in their mind. Fortunately, there are plenty of quite workable drawings on the Internet, although drawing and drawing are also difficult.

Experience is the best assistant

But the best assistant is the experience that the participants of our portal generously share.

The frame was made from a 20x40 mm profile pipe, a 3 mm thick metal sheet, mineral wool as an insulator, and MDF finishing.

Since it is necessary to cook the frame on a hard, flat surface, and the craftsman did not have a suitable cooking table, he used beams placed in the same plane. He also used clamps to maintain the geometry of the product; some of them slightly “grab” the elements to the cooking table during the welding process. dronduletus I made the door in several stages.

I cut the pipe to size, did not observe the 45⁰ angles, since the welding was carried out end-to-end, assembled the frame, beat off the diagonal, grabbed it, checked it, and secured it with clamps. I welded the frame and welded the stiffeners.

The sheet for the sheathing was cut taking into account allowances for overlap along the entire perimeter (1.5 cm), and secured to the frame with clamps. I first welded it from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, using clamps (about 2 cm in increments of 15-20 cm). To make the sheet less sticky, cook it diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. Afterwards, I welded the external seams in the same way, cleaned them with a grinder, and welded them along the stiffening ribs in the same order. It was possible to get by with just one rib, but the sheet turned out to be curved. Next, I welded the “pocket” for the lock - I cut a groove in the end, and scalded it around the perimeter with profile scraps.

I made the box from a 40x40 mm corner, used a 100x50 mm channel for the threshold, and when cutting the segments I added gaps not only for the hinges and the lock, but also up and down (4 mm each). As a protection against those who like to profit from other people's goods, I welded additional plates/plugs over the place where the crossbar will fit the full width (on both sides). I welded metal strips to attach the box to the wall (two on top and three on the sides). It protected not only from knocking out the bolt, but also from removing the door from its hinges.

dronduletus

I welded pieces of corner 8 cm wide inside the door, on the back side of the frame, lifting it 8 mm from it - these are anti-removal crabs.

I welded the canopies in a horizontal position - placing the canvas in a box and placing a 2 mm thick steel plate between the canopy and the canvas, so that the seal could be glued on afterwards and avoid friction. I welded the canopies at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, having previously checked the level and secured with clamps.

Since the walls are old and leave much to be desired, I abandoned conventional anchors and used pins only to fix the threshold (channel). The frame was secured with studs 25 cm long (diameter 12 mm) and chemical anchors. After installing the frame, I hung the door and drilled holes for the bolt. I laid insulation in the door cavity and sewed everything up MDF panels, painted.

Another portal participant did not photograph the process, but his observations will be useful to anyone who is planning to start making a door.

outsider FORUMHOUSE Member

I also welded the doors; I didn’t take any photos during the process, but I’ll tell you the details. I did this with my father-in-law, they welded a bunch of these doors as a sub at the factory.

DIY metal door, life hacks and conclusions:

It is better to take hot-rolled iron for cladding; cold-rolled iron has tight geometry and right angles;
To weld the hinge plate to the box with a clamp, you need to hold it lightly and immediately release it. When the seam cools, the plate will bend with the required gap. All loops are scalded after fixation;

If you do special device(as in the figure), pressing the sheet to the corner when welding will avoid “bubbles”;

To prevent the door leaf from touching the frame during operation, the hinges are welded so that the hinge axis is on the edge of the sheet;

Intermediate draft result in the photo.

Master81 welded two metal doors - double-leaf and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and, looking at his creation, it is clear that he is “on the short end” with metal.

The box was welded from a corner five millimeters thick, six is possible, but four is undesirable, the frame is made of a 40x20 mm profile pipe. The manufacture of the structure did not cause any difficulties.

Master81 FORUMHOUSE Member

I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner straight with a grinder, first assembled the frame, then the frame for the door.

Another one of our craftsmen, a FORUMHOUSE member from Moscow with the nickname oss, has already made the sixth metal door, if you count Garage Doors. The canvas is three millimeters thick, the frame is made of a 50x40x3 mm profile pipe, like most, but he approached the issue of safety thoroughly. Armor plate, internal plate, lever lock with four bolts, protective curtain in the hole. These improvements have increased the cost of the product, but peace of mind is more valuable. No photo oss compensates with an optimized assembly process and useful tips.

oss FORUMHOUSE Member

Before this, I made doors using different techniques, including first tying, and then tacking and assembling the frame. The sequence chosen this time seems more optimistic.

The optimized version looks like this:

I started with the front vertical profile, made a frame, secured the lock in the frame, checked how it worked;
I made a rear vertical profile, immediately welded the anti-pullers (behind the hinges);
I assembled the entire frame from profiles using tacks;
I cut out the trim along the frame (with an overlap of 20 mm);
“I baited” the sheet, scalded it with oven mitts in increments of 150 mm;
In the racks of the box (trimming) I cut out grooves for the crossbars and anti-removals;
I welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
Welded the hinges.

ABOUT ss advises to insert one combined door lock instead of two different types.

Conclusion

In a thread on the forum dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade products would be significant, and the savings would not be so significant that the game would be worth the candle. However for skillful hands and the manufacturing process is quite feasible, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not guess what’s inside the purchased structure, is an important factor. Therefore, while some are talking about feasibility, others are doing and sharing real experience to make things easier for beginners.

How to save on entrance fees wooden doors, you can find out from the article - also on our portal. The video contains an overview of popular new doors from the famous exhibition.

The front door is the calling card of any home. Therefore, it should not only look beautiful, but also provide good thermal insulation and be harmonious with the design and architecture of the building. The safety of property, as well as the protection of housing from the penetration of cold air, precipitation and noise from the street, directly depends on the strength and reliability of this structure.

Today, the choice of doors is provided in a wide range, and each model differs in its configuration and external shape. The entrance structure can be purchased at finished form, made to order or made yourself. This may surprise many, but there is nothing complicated about it, you just need to do it correct measurements, pick up the right option models and be patient.

It is worth noting that the homemade design will differ original design and will highlight the entrance to the room in a special way.

Features and models

Entrance doors are installed both in the apartment and in a private house. Regardless of the location of this structure, its direct purpose is considered reliable protection housing from cold, noise and burglary. Therefore, when choosing this or that front door model, you need to take into account many nuances. Recently, they have become very popular homemade designs made of metal and wood, while metal doors are distinguished by their functionality and design features, they are resistant to explosions, burglaries, fireproof and bulletproof.

As for wooden options, then they are characterized by an original aesthetic appearance; doors with sliding systems also deserve special attention.

Today there are many types of entrance doors. According to their purpose they are:

Fireproof and bulletproof. Such products are made of high-strength metal. In addition, these types of doors are additionally treated with reinforcing compounds.
Shockproof. They are the most reliable option for protecting your home.
Soundproofing. Prevents noise and sounds from entering the house.
Sealed. Often installed in outbuildings.

Entrance doors can open different ways. There are swing and sliding models of structures. In addition, doors are classified by the number of leaves and are:

Single leaf. Made from solid fabric.
One and a half. They are a structure consisting of two parts, where only one opens.
Bivalve. Large doors with two opening leaves.

All entrance doors are different appearance and shapes, therefore a distinction is made between rectangular and arched products. Designs with a blind transom are also popular.

Recently, manufacturers have been trying to make the entrance to their homes unusual, so they often decorate the doors with glass.

Materials

Entrance doors are made from different raw materials, most often for self-production use metal and natural wood. It is worth noting that the functional properties of the structure will depend on the chosen material, since a good and high-quality door should not allow cold air to pass through and completely isolate the house from extraneous sounds.

Despite the fact that metal products are very popular, wood still does not lose its advantages and is often used in the production of doors. Such models are found in modern apartments, and in country houses. As a rule, such wooden structures made from solid oak, as well as birch and pine. Wood doors provide excellent insulation and retain heat well.

Thanks to the unique characteristics of wood, products made from boards protect homes from the penetration of cold air currents.

To ensure that such products do not rot or become moldy during operation, they are additionally treated with special solutions that reliably protect the canvas from wood pests and increase their service life. In addition, wood is easy to process and decorate with various inserts or carvings. The only disadvantage of this raw material is its high cost, so plywood panels are often used as an alternative.

Unlike wood, metal structures have more advantages. They are strong and durable, and in order for such products to provide optimal insulation, they are coated with a protective layer. Metal doors are also painted with enamels and varnish, this protects their surface from rust and allows installation both indoors and outdoors in country houses.

For self-production of entrance structures, as a rule, steel sheets are chosen.

Recently you can also find plastic or metal plastic doors. They are intended for buildings where tambour heating is possible, because plastic does not retain heat. In addition, such products will require additional protection in the form of alarms or bars. Although plastic is easy to install, it is still not suitable for homes.

Huge selection of colors, availability decorative inserts and ease of maintenance allows the use of plastic doors for entrances to various organizations and offices.

Dimensions

Before starting production work entrance structure, you should first decide on the dimensions of the future product and correctly measure the doorway. It is worth paying attention to the fact that in each apartment or house the dimensions of the openings may differ. If you plan to install a standard single-leaf door, then you will need leaves 860x2050 mm or 960x2050 mm. If necessary, non-standard panels can be produced. For simple double doors canvases of 1200x2050 mm or 1400x2050 mm are used, but for office premises and private houses, it is best to choose larger designs - 1500x2100 mm or even 1600x2100 mm.

Often when installing entrance doors you have to deal with such a problem as non-standard opening sizes. The most optimal solution in this situation there will be an expansion or filling of the opening itself.

Step-by-step instruction

Home renovation takes a lot of time and money, so many owners often decide to take a desperate step and carry out Finishing work with installation of entrance doors yourself. Of course, the design can be purchased ready-made, but if you want to save money, then it’s quite possible to make it yourself. Before you start making a door, you need to decide on the external shapes and the load that will be placed on the product.

You will also need to prepare the following tools:

Roulette;
Pencil;
Hacksaw;
Hammer;
Self-tapping screws;
Screwdriver;
Jigsaw;
Glue.

In addition, upon completion of the work, the doors must be beautifully decorated, so it is important to correctly measure the extensions, place the frame, and decorate the doorways with platbands or additional elements.

To perform such work, you can choose various material , but natural wood is considered the most affordable. To make quality product, preference should be given to timber with a width of 5 mm and a thickness of no more than 4 mm. Such canvases will provide excellent sound insulation. In addition, it is easier to install a threshold and put steps in wooden doors. As for the technology of installation work, they are based on correct measurements of the door frame; the maximum connection of the beam with the frame will depend on them. And for an outdoor structure, you will also need to weld the hinges and paint the surface.

For the manufacture of standard door a canvas 205 cm long is assembled, while its width can be different. First, a frame is prepared, which will look like a frame. Then a fiberboard sheet is cut to the size of the frame and secured with self-tapping screws. After assembling such a structure, the fiberboard is glued. It is advisable to strengthen the beams not only with self-tapping screws, but also with glue.

The finished door is thoroughly dried, and then the hinges are screwed on and the lock is inserted. In order for the product to have an attractive appearance, it is recommended to additionally trim it with dermantine on the gasket. This way the door will turn out beautiful and insulated.

When installing the structure, special attention should also be paid to the insertion of the lock. Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of the canvas. In addition, the lock is a thin mechanism, so when installing it, a misalignment of even 1 mm is not allowed.

As for painting, this is the final stage of work, and it is carried out only after the box is installed.

How to insulate?

One of the purposes of the entrance structure is considered to be good thermal insulation, so the canvas should be well insulated. For this they use various technologies. If the box is made of metal, then first of all you need to fill its internal unused cavity. In this case, it is filled with a special insulating material in the form of mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Also, to keep the door warm, it can be sheathed wooden beam. The only drawback of this technology is the formation of cold bridges.

The front door is well insulated with dermantine. With this technology, the door leaf is upholstered on only one side, and thin layer insulation is applied to two openings. Thermal insulation is glued directly to the door, and then it is decorated with dermantine or genuine leather.

Equally important is protecting the structure from drafts. There are two ways to do this:

Insulating the gaps between the frame and the canvas. A rubber or foam seal works well as thermal insulation. It is attached using a self-adhesive base and applied both to the box itself and to the canvas.
Opening the door frame. Upholstery of external and internal sides slopes, and the gaps between the opening and the structure are filled with insulating material.

If none of the types of thermal insulation are suitable, alternative solution may be the installation of a second entrance door.

How to weld awnings?

Before installing the entrance doors, it is necessary to weld the hinges (canopies). As a rule, to hold a standard structure you will need two hinges, the distance between them should not exceed 20 cm. Before work begins, the canopies are thoroughly cleaned and treated with a special solution. It is advisable to weld the hinges horizontally in relation to the door frame. In the event that the opening is already installed, the welding seam is carried out vertically.