How to build the roof of a house with your own hands in 3 stages

I won’t deceive you, building a roof with your own hands is a very troublesome task, but still real. The whole process is divided into 3 fairly extensive stages - preparation and calculation, installation of the rafter system and arrangement roofing pie. And then we will go through all the stages of installation step by step, plus I will talk about some of the pitfalls that await you during the construction process.

Stage No. 1: selection of design and calculation details

The structure of the roof of a private house directly depends on the type of structure, because not every building is within the capabilities of an amateur, even if this amateur is fluent with any tool.

Types of structures

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Shed roof. With the construction pitched roof As a rule, there are no difficulties. But in Russia such designs are relevant only for small outbuildings up to 6 m wide. Shed roof good home often unable to withstand snow and wind loads. And she looks very mediocre.
	Gable roof. This design can rightfully be called a queen. For people without experience, a gable roof is considered the best option.
	Hip sloping roof. People call this structure an attic, but in reality an attic is a living space in the attic and the type of roof this concept is indirectly related. WITH practical point From a perspective, such a roof is perhaps the most comfortable, plus the technology here is not much more complicated than that of a gable structure.
	Hip roof. The hip roof is somewhat similar to a gable roof, only at the ends it has 2 more gentle slopes. Calculation and installation here are more complicated, and more roofing material will be required.
	Half hip roof. This model is suitable for those owners who want an original and relatively simple attic.
	Gable roof. The gable model is a symbiosis of several gable structures. In appearance everything seems simple, but installation of this design is very problematic.
	Tent structure. The hip roof is a hipped prism. It only makes sense to install it on square houses with a large area and without an attic, since it will be miniature there.

There are also conical, spire-shaped, multi-level, vaulted and other complex structures, but it is impossible for a craftsman without experience to assemble such structures with his own hands.

How to calculate a roof

Gentle slopes of 20–35º, on the one hand, are easier to equip, but on the other, the roof trusses need to be seriously strengthened, since the snow does not fall off such slopes on its own.

To avoid problems with snow, the slope angle should be about 60º, but such a steep roof has a large windage and in windy areas special fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat is required.

The topic of accurate calculations when designing a roof is worthy of a separate story; the video in this article partly shows this process, but you can take a simpler route.

In the “basement” of our website (below the article) there is a section “construction calculators”, there you will find programs with which different types roofs are calculated simply, quickly, and most importantly accurately.

Stage No. 2: installation of the truss structure

This stage also consists of 2 subsections:

arrangement of the Mauerlat;
installation of the rafter system on the Mauerlat.

We fasten the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is, figuratively speaking, a gasket between the walls of a house and the roof. The design is quite simple, it is a square wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm, which can be solid or stacked, but there are nuances in installing the Mauerlat.

For wooden house The Mauerlat as such is not needed; its function is performed by a beam or log in the outermost frame. In this case, it is not advisable to attach the floor beams to the upper frame. Most often they are placed under this harness, that is, they are mounted on one of the previous rows;
For walls made of cellular concrete (foam and aerated concrete) under the Mauerlat, you must first install a reinforced reinforced concrete belt and lay timber on it. Otherwise, the distribution of the load from the roof will be uneven and the walls will begin to crack;
IN cinder block houses It is also advisable to fill the upper reinforced belt under the Mauerlat. You can do without it only if the walls are laid out with one and a half or more cinder blocks;

In brick houses it is not necessary to pour a reinforced belt under the Mauerlat; such walls can easily withstand the pressure of the roof;

Keep in mind - under no circumstances should you place the Mauerlat on a bare wall. On top load-bearing wall A two-layer gasket made of roofing felt must be made.

If a reinforced concrete belt is poured on top, then during the construction process, vertical metal studs or simply reinforcement with a cross-section of 12 mm or more are walled up in increments of no more than 1 m, and timber will be attached to them;

To the walls where there is no reinforced belt , the timber is secured with anchors in increments of 50–70 cm.

Rafter system

Any rafter system is mounted directly on the Mauerlat, but the mount can be rigid or floating. It's easy to figure out, the floating connection is mounted only on wooden houses, it is necessary to compensate for the shrinkage of the structure.

There is one more important point- there are layered and hanging rafter systems. In the layered version, in addition to the side external walls, the load is also distributed on the internal walls, and the hanging system rests only on the external walls. So, if possible, try to arrange a layered structure, it is more reliable.

The designs of rafter systems vary and it is important to understand the terminology; the diagram below shows the main elements in such systems. The only one important detail, which is not well marked there - this is a ridge beam or ridge girder, it is mounted at the top connection point of the rafter legs.

People often wonder how difficult it is to lift a finished roof. Theoretically, this is not difficult, you just need to untwist the anchors holding the mauerlat, after which jacks are placed under it, and the entire structure is gradually raised. But it’s worth doing this only if you are confident in the strength of the old roof.

Stage No. 3: roofing

When installing a roof, the most important thing is to properly arrange the sheathing for the roof covering. There are 2 types of lathing:

Continuous sheathing mounted under standing seam roofing, as well as roll and soft roofs, for example, bitumen shingles. Previously, such lathing was made from planed boards 100x20 mm. Now craftsmen prefer to sheathe rafters with OSB sheets;

Sparse wooden sheathing used for sheet materials ( ceramic tiles, slate, ondulin, etc.).

The arrangement technology is simple, the main thing here is to do the workpiece correctly, and the insulation can be installed later. By the way, solid sheet sheathing can be installed directly on the rafters; everything shown below applies only to the loosened options.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Rafter system. The rafter system is installed first.
	Wind protection. We roll out and staple the waterproofing film to the rafters. It is popularly called wind protection. Such a film is vapor-permeable on one side, but steam should only escape in the direction from the house to the street.
	Counter rake. A counter rail made of a 50x50 mm block is placed on top of the wind protection.
	Sparse lathing. The sheathing strips are placed on counter slats. The pitch of the under-roof sheathing is selected depending on the type of roofing, after which you can begin installing the roofing itself.

Insulation from below is laid under the rafters. mineral wool. I don’t recommend saving on cotton wool; you only need to take thick cotton wool slabs. Soft mats under the roof quickly become unusable. A complete diagram of the arrangement of the roofing pie is given below.

Conclusion

Of course, each type of roof has its own arrangement nuances, but the stages I described are suitable for absolutely all structures. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

November 1, 2017

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Erection of the roof is one of the most critical stages of building a house. To the most simple designs These include gable roofs with straight slopes. If it is decided that it will be built gable roof do it yourself, you need to carefully read the step-by-step instructions and video. The functional parameters of the roof also depend on proper insulation, characteristics and quality of installation of the finishing coating.

Preparatory stage

To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account the snow and wind load in the existing climatic conditions - the smaller the angle of inclination, the better design resists loads. But the small angle of inclination (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.

The shape and design of the roof are developed in accordance with the design plan of the house: the key support points of the roof truss system must coincide with the lines and location points load-bearing structures the floor below. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house and the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not planned to be used as an additional usable area for permanent or seasonal residence, you can make a reliable roof with layered rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to the ridge girder, which is supported by racks resting on the internal load-bearing wall.

Hanging rafters are the most practical and economical option for light buildings. In this case, the rafter legs are connected in pairs with crossbars - horizontal jumpers that provide the necessary rigidity of the structure. System with hanging rafters based on side walls structures.

If the width of the house exceeds 6 meters, in addition to the crossbars, which act as the basis for the ceiling, purlins and racks are installed. The purlin is a horizontal beam that acts as an additional support for the rafters that form the roof slope. Installation of the purlin requires the use of racks. The racks, in turn, rest on the beds - a special beam laid along the slope. The beds and racks serve as the frame of the walls attic room. This layered design allows you to create an attic or spacious attic for household needs with your own hands.

If you need to build a simple and reliable roof, a gable structure with a slope of 45-50° is optimal. This rafter system is suitable for installation on residential buildings and buildings for various purposes. When calculating materials, it is necessary to take into account that the rafter system must be light enough to avoid excessive load on the foundation, but at the same time strong. The cross-section of lumber should be selected based on the dimensions truss structure.

Mauerlat installation

Let's look at a step-by-step method of building a roof with layered rafters and an attic space with your own hands. At the first stage, installation is carried out on the longitudinal walls of the house top harness- Mauerlat. The harness bears the pressure of the entire roofing system and transmits it evenly building structures– walls and foundation.

The Mauerlat is made of timber (section from 50×150 to 150×150 mm), treated with special protective equipment to protect against rotting and fire.

Mauerlat can be made in various ways:

V brickwork rolled wire is embedded, through which the beam is fixed to the wall (the wire is threaded through specially made holes and twisted tightly);
Long metal pins with a diameter of 12 mm or more are embedded in the masonry;
At the top of the wall there is a monolithic concrete beam with embedded steel studs.

The studs should be spaced at intervals of no more than 120 mm. The height of the protruding end of the fastening element should be 20-30 mm higher than the total thickness of the waterproofing and the timber in which holes should be made in advance. The beam is put on the studs and tightened tightly with nuts and wide washers.

Construction of the rafter system

The rafter system, which you can make with your own hands, consists of a number of elements combined into a single whole. The A-shaped rafter truss is a rigid structure that works “for expansion”. If the roof construction is carried out on timber house, opposite walls should be strengthened with ties made of 100x150 mm timber at the level of the ceiling beams. This is done to prevent the walls from moving apart under load.

On ceiling beds are laid - additional elements from timber 150×150 mm or more, which serve as support for the racks and redistribute the point load on the floor surface. Laying the beds with your own hands should be done along the lines of the walls of the future attic space. If the attic is not planned to be used, the bed can be laid directly under the ridge to install support posts. If necessary, you can splice the timber, but only in places where the joint will lie on the beam. Tenon connection secured with a bracket or metal plate.

Repeating parts of the rafter system should be made completely identical to each other in order to build an isosceles gable roof, the weight of which will be distributed evenly even under atmospheric loads. For this purpose, templates of identical parts are made with your own hands.

50x150 mm boards are laid out on the floor of the house, a triangle of the required height is made from two rafter legs and a stand board (its length corresponds to the height of the future roof), connected with a nail. Two or three people lift the structure - the stand is installed on the central axis of the ceiling, the rafters are installed on the mauerlat.

In the process of preparing the template, you can lengthen the elements by varying the height of the roof and choosing the most suitable option.

Having decided on the dimensions, it is necessary to make curly cuts on the rafters at the points of their contact with the strapping. Rafter leg should rest firmly against the Mauerlat. There are a number of fastening methods; you should choose the most convenient and reliable one; it is advisable to use metal pads. The intricacies of the technology can be found in the video. The resulting rafter structure subsequently acts as a template, and the support board helps control the height of the installed trusses.

Gable

The pediment is a continuation of the wall, limited by the roof slopes. If a gable roof is provided, the gables of the house have the shape of a triangle. When installing a truss structure, the outer trusses are installed first, which later serve as the frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structures and ensure that they have the same height. A ridge girder is attached to the upper part of the gables, to which the remaining rafter structures are subsequently mounted.

Usually the gables are sewn up after finishing roofing works, but this can be done at an earlier stage. Installation of boards 50×100 or 50×150 mm is carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which you can build with your own hands, is often equipped with windows.

It is also necessary to provide for insulation of the gables.

Roof insulation and roof installation

On rafter system the lathing is stuffed, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, installation method. If flexible materials are to be used ( bitumen shingles, PVC films, rolled bitumen roofing), it is necessary to make a continuous, even flooring.

Roof insulation must be treated with the utmost care, since otherwise heat losses will be very significant. Typically, a gable roof is immediately completed taking into account the use of certain materials for insulation - when building a rafter system with your own hands, the pitch of the rafters is calculated relative to the width sheet insulation. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs, since the material for insulation does not have to be cut. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of insulation and vapor barrier systems.

In that high-quality video You can see in detail how to make a gable roof yourself and make sure that there is nothing complicated about it.

In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable roof is built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house, and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex roof configurations.

- in the second case, the rafters rest on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.

Let's take a brick box house as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. The construction of any roof with your own hands begins with the installation of maeurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read

We install the Mauerlat flush with inner surface walls It should be bricked up on the outside so that it is not visible. In this case, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the upper surface facing bricks so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load.

Next we install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence shown in Fig. 2. First of all, we install the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their extension determines the width of the cornice. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams we use a beam, the cross-section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.

After securing the outer floor beams, we pull the string along the upper plane and set the remaining beams, if necessary, tightening the Mauerlat under them, or, on the contrary, placing thin plywood (you just often order timber with a height of 200 mm, and they deliver it from 190 to 210 mm, this is what we have on our sawmills equipment). We select their pitch taking into account the pitch of future rafters. When using 50x150 mm floorboards as rafters, take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, since roofing insulation has this width).

Having installed all the long beams, we install the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to take about 1 meter. This diagram is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the gable ebb on one of our first roofs sagged, although the ebb fillers were quite securely fastened. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely eliminated.

We fasten all beams to the mauerlat with 150 nails; you can also use metal rafter angles and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fastening elements for rafter connections, makes work easier. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person; there is no need to make complex cuts and nicks. We have already talked about this in the article ““.

After installing all the beams, we lay (without fastening) boards on them, maybe floorboards, maybe inch boards. They are needed simply to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.

First of all, we place racks made of 50x150 mm boards level or plumb and fasten them with temporary spacers. In Fig. The 3 spacers are shown on one post only, again to avoid cluttering the drawing. The pitch of the racks is no more than 3 meters. First we place the outer ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we place the intermediate posts. After the entire truss has been erected, the intermediate posts can be removed and you can easily create living rooms on the second floor.

The height of the racks is selected depending on the shape of the roof you want to achieve. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.

Having installed the racks, we place the ridge beam on them and literally fix it with a couple of screws. We use a 50x200 mm board (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).

Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board along them, we get a rafter template.

Of course it’s very good when the foot at home is laid out high geometric accuracy and floor beams were also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and calmly install them. But to be honest, this is quite difficult to achieve, and even more difficult when a new roof is being installed on an old house.

In this case, we first make only the top cut on the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece and apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom cut, as they say locally. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that after installing one rafter, we immediately install the opposite one in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend).

When the length of the roof slope is large and a standard 6-meter board is not enough, you can go in two ways. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of 7.5-meter boards cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.

The second method requires splicing two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section 1.5 - 2 meters long. See the figure for how this is done. It is better to make the joint at the bottom, and an additional stand must be installed under it.

We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. To attach to the floor beam, we have recently been using metal fastening plates and screws and adding a couple of nails. Sometimes we use staples. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it incorrectly. The bracket must work in tension. Below in the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.

Having strengthened the truss, we begin to work on the gables. First, we install additional posts that will serve as the frame of the pediment (Fig. 7). The accuracy of installation is controlled by a string stretched along the bottoms of the rafters. Then we do window hole(Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you want. Please note that in the picture, the post standing in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears virtually any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).

The next step is filing cornice boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The front board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a 25x200 mm board. From the bottom to the cornices we sew two belts from a 25x100 board (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to secure when exterior decoration soffit.

Now if we are going to mount drainage system and use for gutters metal holders, they need to be installed on the footrails right now (under the waterproofing film). Moreover front boards It is also advisable to cover it with siding at this stage. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show this in the picture. In addition, we now only use plastic gutter holders that are attached directly to the front board. They are more convenient and can be installed after the roof is assembled.

Next we proceed to the sheathing. First of all, with the help construction stapler We fix the first strip of waterproofing film on the rafters (Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if you already have scaffolding installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to install them when you are doing the roofing, drainage, and sheathing the eaves with siding.

Having secured the film, we nail the counter-lattice slats (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave space for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.

Then we make the sheathing. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. Moreover, to anyone roofing Attached are instructions that describe in detail how to make the sheathing specifically for this material (the pictures schematically show the sheathing for metal tiles). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.

In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After this, all that remains is to make the gable overhang and gable ebb. The sequence here is:

Using self-tapping screws, we attach the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below to the protruding ends of the sheathing (Fig. 13);

We insert and secure with self-tapping screws the fillets of the gable overhang (board 25x150). The distance between them is approximately 1 meter (Fig. 14);

We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). There are also enough of them to subsequently cover the gable overhangs with siding (Fig. 15);

From pieces of 50x150 boards of the required length we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, having secured them to the stems, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.

This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what will happen after completing the roofing work and covering the gable and eaves with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.

Many owners of suburban plots prefer to build a house themselves. The final stage The construction of a building is the construction of the roof. Having certain skills, you can reduce labor costs hired workers and do the work with your own hands. Many people do not know how to make a roof - in such cases it is better to use the help of qualified workers.

Types of roofs being built

First of all, you need to determine the type of roof, prepare necessary tools and materials. Construction of the roof is one of the important stages of building a house.

To make a roof, you will need to choose its type wisely. The simplest designs that you can make yourself include gable roofs with straight frames.

Covering the roof with one slope will save material. If you make such a roof frame with your own hands, the labor intensity of the work will be less, and the installation speed, on the contrary, will be higher. But this method has several disadvantages. The first of them is not the most attractive: there is no possibility to equip an attic or attic. In this case, the roof space is too low.

Very often a gable roof is installed on a private house. with my own hands. It is easy to make and allows you to get more space. Compared to four slopes, it has less complexity and weight. Also in this case less material is required. The roof of a house differs significantly from other types. In this case, you need to make triangular gables at the ends of the building.

Before you build your own four-beam roof, you'll have to do some serious preparation. This design has more elements compared to previous roofs. Besides, in the attic there is no way to make full windows, since the design is devoid of pediments. Installing the roof with your own hands in this case involves installing attic windows And skylights. They are designed for lighting and evacuation.

An excellent option would be combined design. It can combine characteristics of all these types. Another option for an attic is to build a roof with broken slopes. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make your home more comfortable.

Materials for work

Modern construction industry offers a huge number of traditional and innovative roofing materials. To understand all their diversity, you need to consider in detail the main types of parameters. However, first it is worth understanding what principles are used when choosing certain roofing materials. The choice of material depends on many factors:

The modern market is full of various roofing materials. They must not only be strong enough. Required condition is the ability to withstand various negative atmospheric factors.

Erection of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of tools and materials.

In particular, you will need:

Construction methodology

Let's look at how to make a roof correctly. To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account snow and wind loads in existing climatic conditions- the smaller the angle, the better the structure can withstand loads. But a small angle (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.

The shape and structure of the roof are designed in accordance with the project plan: the key supports of the roof system must coincide with the lines and points of the supporting structures of the lower floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house and the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not planned to be used as living space, you can build reliable roof with multi-layer rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to a track that supports posts resting on an internal support wall.

If you decide to install the gable roof yourself, you should carefully read the step-by-step instructions. The functional parameters of the roof also depend on the correct insulation, characteristics and quality of installation of the finishing coating.

Independent Mauerlat device

Before you can reliably build the roof of a house, you need to take care of fastening the mauerlat - the wooden frame of the house, which serves as the boundary of the transition from the stone to the wooden part.

Block it in these ways:

The fill strengthens the belt around the perimeter and fixes the studs in it. The stud pitch should be from 1 to 1.5 meters.
Then the studs are fixed in the last rows of the house's masonry.

Cutting and installation of rafters

The rafters are the most the hard part work. It is important not only to mount the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. If it is skewed, the entire roof will “walk,” which is bad for the house.

Now you need to cut the top edge of the board so that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be connected cutting edges without voids or gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, lean it against the mauerlat and raise it to desired angle. In the center, overlapping the floor towards the rafters, you need to draw a line. This will be the cutting line for the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter we get an inclined cut. All rafters, cut with a pattern, are assembled securely at the top using brackets, ties and bolts.

Roof gable installation

The pediment is a continuation of the wall, limited by the slopes of the roof. If there is a gable roof, then the gables of the house are triangular. When installing a structure, the first parts are first installed, which subsequently serve as a frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structure and ensure that they are of the same height. A mountain ridge is attached to the upper part of the gables, onto which the remaining rafter structures are later mounted.

Usually, gables are sewn up after roofing work, but this can be done for more early stage. Installation of boards 50 x 100 or 50 x 150 mm is carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which can be built with your own hands, is often equipped with windows. It is necessary to provide insulation of gables.

Installation of frame and roofing pie

Continuing the topic, it is worth noting that the next stage will be the installation of the frame and construction roofing pie. Once the system is ready, it is necessary to lay the frame, which will become the basis for other materials of the pie - vapor and waterproofing, as well as for other insulating and roofing materials.

The roof covering can be installed from unedged boards 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards depends on the final roofing material. The heavier, the smaller the rack pitch should be. Usually it is 30 cm.

Important: It is advisable to lay a layer of vapor barrier under the frame. It will protect the insulation from evaporation from the house. The boards are already installed on top of the barrier.

Now, perpendicular to the tree, you need to lay the beam in steps equal to the width of the slabs or rolls insulating material. Insulation is placed between them, carefully in the existing grooves.

From above everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing and fixed with another perpendicular frame (in in this case horizontal). And the last roofing material is already installed on it.

At the very end of the roof installation in the house, it is necessary to install drainage system. It is made from cut plastic pipes, they are bought in advance. Now all that remains is to sew up the roof with the selected material.

DIY roof covering

The plank is placed on the rafter system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, and installation method. If the use of flexible materials is required (tiles, rolled bitumen), it is necessary to make an even frame.

Work on laying roof tiles is carried out in the following order:

Overlap must be reinforced in each wave. Covering the roof with metal tiles, Special attention attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening of the sheets and the accuracy of their connection.

When installing the roof, everything must be done as carefully as possible, otherwise heat losses will be very significant. Usually a gable roof is immediately made taking into account the use various materials. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of thermal insulation and vapor barrier systems. design gable roof It is recommended to perform it step by step with assistants. Compliance with work technology allows us to build a reliable, durable structure.

Each stage of building a roof with your own hands is of equally serious importance and deserves close attention. Today we will talk in detail about each stage from “a” to “z”... So, we are building the roof of the house with our own hands.

Stages of construction work on arranging a roof with your own hands

Installing the Mauerlat

A mandatory step when installing roofs in brick and stone, but not in wooden houses.

Mauerlat is the name given to the entire roof truss system. Its installation can be carried out using various methods. But, regardless of the fastening methods, it is necessary to take into account such parameters as the size of the building and the roof load on it.

So, the rafter system can be attached to the walls by means of:

wire, which is wrapped around the Mauerlat and screwed to the wall. This is the simplest and most primitive option, which is used in cases where the roof is light in weight (this method is not considered absolutely reliable!);
staples This option also suitable for buildings with low loads. In order to secure the mauerlat with staples, wooden blocks are embedded into the masonry of each wall. After this, each of the brackets is attached with one side to the Mauerlat, and the other to the block;
hairpins To ensure such fastening, studs with a diameter of 10-15 millimeters are used. They are laid in the wall masonry with their points up. Next, the mauerlat is placed on the edges of the walls and lightly tapped with a hammer until marks from the studs appear on the beam. After this, holes are made in the places indicated above. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and tightened with nuts;
anchor bolts. A concrete belt of such bolts is laid along the edge of each wall. In the future, the installation process is similar to the option with mounting on studs. This method is considered by most experts to be the most reliable; it is practiced even when arranging roofs in buildings made of lightweight concrete.

We fasten the rafters

One of the main distinctive features a good roofing system - reliable and high-quality fastening of the roof to the main frame of the building.

Currently widely used various methods fastening the rafters to the frame of the structure. In the case of the roof of a wooden house, we cannot use any of the varieties hanging structures. The rafter beams should only be inclined, and the fastenings should be hinged; this combination provides a strong and at the same time movable fastening, which is ideal in conditions of shrinkage of the frame of a wooden building.

Roofing work in brick and stone buildings assume rigid fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat. Here an inclined or hanging system fasteners with or without a notch.

Fastening with a notch implies a tight connection of the rafters to the mauerlat. For this purpose, the rafter beams are cut in a certain way. Elements for the removal of cornices are attached with an overlap. Rigid fixation of structural units is carried out using staples, screws or nails.

The fastening option without a cut is more technologically simpler. The tightness of the junction of the rafters is ensured by thrust boards and bars, and the structural units are secured using metal corners.

Strengthening the structure

Installing additional structural elements(struts, racks, etc.) - a proven way to increase the reliability of the rafter structure. However, in this context, one should not forget about the features of the layout and interior of the building. Therefore, it is important to remember the following rules:

The struts should be positioned at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees relative to the horizontal plane.
Should not be installed support posts for spans of floors. The racks should be located on walls or beams and springels (between the walls of the house).
In order to prevent the possible process of divergence of the rafter beams, special tightenings are used.

We arrange the sheathing

The choice of type of sheathing is largely determined by the characteristics of the roofing material. If installation is planned metal roof, the optimal choice would be a sparse, non-continuous sheathing. And for soft bitumen roofing A solid sheathing is ideal.

We arrange ventilation

The under-roof space must be ventilated to protect the roof from mold, fungi and other unpleasant surprises.

For ventilation devices we:

we ensure the flow of air through the eaves, using special perforated soffits or simply sparse boards;
we provide a gap of two to three centimeters between the layers of insulation and roofing materials for better air flow circulation;
We are working on installing a special aerator in order to ensure air outlet in the ridge area.

Remember that a properly designed ventilation system protects the roof from destructive processes.

Selection of roofing materials– one of the main points in the long chain of all the above works. Currently, any serious manufacturer makes every effort to detailed instructions for roofing installation for each item of material sold.

Currently, the following roofing coverings are at the peak of popularity:

corrugated sheeting;
ondulin;
flexible (soft) tiles;
seam tiles;
metal tiles.

The roof is one of the most important parts Houses. The durability of its operation depends on how correct its installation is. Otherwise, you will have to dismantle it within a year. The variety of materials and designs also dictates how the roof will be built with your own hands. It also depends on the house itself: its size, the design of the walls.

The aesthetic component is also important, because some people like a flat roof, others prefer complex designs. In general, the roof of a private house with your own hands - perfect solution in terms of budget and practicality, if you have free time for it.

Before deciding on materials and installation methods, you should familiarize yourself with the educational videos “building the roof of a house with your own hands,” which tell in detail about a specific choice and how the work is carried out, as well as look at a photo of the roof of a house with your own hands. This will help you understand what to choose, and you can be better prepared for the job. In general, the entire process can be divided into the following stages:

Selection of design and materials;
Mauerlat fastening;
Frame installation and roof reinforcement. At this stage it is being built rafter roof with your own hands;
Lathing and provision of ventilation;
Installation of drip pipes and roofing;
Cornice filing;
Insulation.

The roof can be one-, two-, three- and four-slope. The first option is the simplest and allows you to save on material.

What do you need to remember?

If you decide that roofing a house with your own hands is quite possible, then follow these tips:

First, a roof project is prepared, according to which all work will be carried out;
It’s worth looking at the forums to see what certain materials look like over time;
it's important to choose correct angle roof slope - if the slope is unacceptable, the materials will behave differently;
You should choose those materials that come with a warranty. In other cases there is no need to count on high quality erected structure.

In this article we will tell you how to build the roof of a private house with your own hands. Statistics show that almost every third home owner built their home themselves. And this stage is often the most difficult in the entire process. To do this, you need to know and understand what nuances may arise, and also successfully cope with them. Therefore, we advise you to carefully study the materials related to the device various roofs, their installation technology and work order. Then building the roof of a private house with your own hands will be easy and without unnecessary problems.

Before designating the stages of construction, it is necessary to decide what the shape of the roof will be. She may be:

one-, two- or four-slope;
broken line;
multi-forceps.

A pitched roof is the easiest to implement and will also allow you to save materials. The frame can be made independently, and it is also quickly assembled. But it must be remembered that with this choice the possibility of arranging an attic disappears.

The gable roof, in turn, is more popular, but it is more difficult to manufacture. Thanks to it, you can decorate the attic by placing, for example, guest rooms on the floor. Hip roof more complex to perform, as it has more components.

Work order

As for the step-by-step instructions for performing the work, it looks like this:

To begin with, the dimensions of the building are determined, on which, accordingly, the size of the roof depends.
Then materials are purchased.
After this, the Mauerlat is attached to the wall.
The final stage is the actual installation of the frame and roof.

It is necessary to take into account how and where the ventilation will be located, to ensure proper waterproofing: it is better to take care of this in advance, so that you then do not have to carry out repairs or, even worse, redo all the work. Also, before you start building the roof of a private house with your own hands, we recommend that you look at various reference materials, as well as consult with specialists.

Video: DIY roof of a private house

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