Here's everything you need to know to build a chopped "paw" wooden house size in plan 6x8 m (6x6 m - its warm part and 6x2 m - veranda). Such a house is quite compact (which is important if your plot does not exceed 6 acres), but quite spacious and convenient in layout. However, we do not limit your desires, imagination and possibilities to just this option. Having understood the technology of building a log house using our practical advice and “little tricks”, you can build any other chopped wooden house according to your taste. All construction works can be done by two people without the use of special complex mechanisms. Our description of practical techniques for making a log house to an experienced master It would seem overly detailed, but we hope it will help a novice builder make his dream come true. Building a house with your own hands is a wonderful way of self-expression and active recreation!
Read the material carefully several times. This will allow you to clearly imagine the entire technological process, the whole work as a whole, and when building a log house you won’t have to look at the book so often. The work will go faster, and you will succeed!
The first thing you need to learn is the professional language that carpenters speak and in which we will communicate throughout the book. So let's start with terminology.
It is known that the house must stand on a foundation, and one should start with it, but this is a slightly different topic, so the figure shows temporary linings instead of a foundation 1. When the opportunity arises (even after a few years), they will not prevent you from placing a permanent one under the frame foundation.
The log house is log building without floor, sheathing and roof, i.e. the main structural part of the house. It consists of several crowns, the number of which determines the height of the log house. The crown is a rectangular structure consisting of perpendicularly laid logs, fastened together at the corners with a locking joint.
The first crown of the log house is the frame crown 2, the second and main one is the lower frame 3, into which logs 4 are cut. The logs tighten the bottom frame and carry the floor, and the frame crown serves to strengthen the bottom frame and protects it from rotting. Over time it can be replaced. The crowns from the bottom trim to the beginning of the window opening are called sill crowns 5. Next come the window crowns 6, then the above-window crowns. The first crown above the window is the closing crown 7. The structure that serves as the basis for the roof is called top harness. It consists of two upper purlins 8 and rafters 9. What rafters 10 and corner veranda posts 11 are is clear from the figure.
Let's agree to call logs in crowns that lie perpendicular to the purlins transverse, and crowns in which there are window or doorways, - split. The logs that form the openings are called “short logs.” They can be of different lengths depending on the location of windows and doors.
Traditionally, as a log house was being built in Rus', logs were processed at height. In some films, you have probably seen how a carpenter, sitting astride a log, dashingly and quickly wields an ax. Let's take a closer look at what operations it performs. First of all, he needs to drag the prepared log upstairs. Then, having made the marking, cut along it and lay the log in its designated place. Agree, such work at height requires great qualifications and skill. As a novice carpenter, you are unlikely to be able to process a log with the required accuracy the first time. You will probably have to repeatedly remove and re-lay the log, adjusting it to its location. The slightest carelessness during such manipulations leads to injury. You can make your work easier and significantly protect yourself by installing scaffolding. They must be made comfortable and reliable, supporting not only your weight, but also the weight of the log being processed. Therefore, the installation of such scaffolding requires a lot of additional building material and time. But even if all the requirements are met, working at height with an ax (including on scaffolding) without sufficient skill is dangerous!
We suggest that you build the log house in parts, each of which is the height of a person. This method is called felling followed by relaying. It consists in the fact that the individual parts of the log house, after being manufactured on the ground, are disassembled and transferred to the main frame. The transfers will allow you to carry out all work with an ax while standing on the ground, and external scaffolding will not be needed. IN in this case we use two relays, since, in our opinion, this is the best option for a novice builder. Don't be embarrassed by the time spent on additional disassembly and assembly of the crowns. They are more than compensated by the convenience and safety of work, because a well-equipped workplace is the key to high performance labor. You will learn more about how translation is carried out later, but for now we will continue to get acquainted with the terminology.
The part of the tree trunk adjacent to the root is called the butt. When starting to cut down a house, you should know that there is no such thing as a perfectly straight log. Any log has a flatness, that is, it decreases in diameter from butt 1 to top 2. Therefore, when laying logs one on top of another, it is necessary to alternate butts and tops.
When assembling a log house, in order for one crown to fit more closely to the other, a groove 3 is selected along the logs. Another frequently performed operation when processing logs is the manufacture of edging 4.
The end of the log, hewn from two parallel sides, is called a “block” 5, the resulting planes are called cheeks 6, and the untreated, convex surface is called wane 7.
The main structural elements of the log house, which serve as locking connections of the logs, are the “paw” 8 and the “dovetail” 9. For additional fastening of the logs in the crowns, a dowel connection 10 - pocket 11 is used, and the posts and rafters are securely installed using tenons 12.
You should pay special attention to the selection of tools. The most important of them is carpenter's ax 1. It should suit your weight and fit comfortably in your hand. The purpose of such tools as chisel 2, plumb line 3, hacksaw 4, two-handed saw 5, staple 6, bayonet shovel 7, as well as tape measures 8, ruler 9, square 10, colored pencils or wax crayons 11 should not raise any questions. Low-stretch cord 12 and awl 13 are used for marking, and level 14 is used to check horizontality. To make a level, take an elastic rubber hose 5-8 m long with a diameter of about 1 cm, the ends of which are placed on two transparent glass tubes of the same diameter, 15-20 cm long. The resulting device is filled with colored water. In addition to the level, you yourself need to make a template 15 from plexiglass with a thickness of 2-3 mm and a line 16 - the main marking tools, as well as a “babu” 17 - the main “percussion” tool, made from a birch block with two staples hammered into it.
If you have the opportunity to purchase a chainsaw, do not miss it. A chainsaw will make your work much easier and save your energy and time.
To avoid injuries and other “troubles” during construction, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the pages of special work practices and safety precautions.
Construction must begin with logging. Best used conifers- pine and spruce. Aspen is good for making log houses for baths and wells - it is not afraid of water. But you cannot use birch, as it quickly begins to rot and behaves very “capriciously” when processed. Since it burns well and produces a lot of heat, save it for your fireplace. After the forest is cut down, it needs to be debarked and dried.
| Design element | Number of logs | Log length | Log diameter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cover crown | 30 – 50 cm | ||
| Bottom harness | 30 – 50 cm | ||
| Lags | 5-6 pcs | 620 cm | 20 – 35 cm |
| Window sills | 10-13 pcs | 620 cm | 20 – 40 cm |
| Split logs (window and door) | 22-27 pcs | 540 cm | 20 – 35 cm |
| Trailing and above-window crowns | 5-9 pcs | 620 cm | 20 – 35 cm |
| Upper purlins | 2 pcs | 820 cm | 20 – 35 cm |
| Rafters | 7-9 pcs | 720 cm | 20 – 35 cm |
| Rafters | 14-18 pcs | 520 cm | not less than 10 cm |
| Veranda pillars | at least 2 pieces | 300 cm | not less than 20 cm |
Note: the indicated dimensions are selected with a margin for trimming.
Now let's choose a location for the construction site. On the side of the future veranda, it is necessary to provide a place for assembly components log house Then you can begin marking the plan of your future home, which is done using a low-stretch cord and pegs. Our task is to obtain right angles.
The basic rule of the builder is that marking determines quality
We will implement it as follows. We determine point 1. Set aside 800 cm from it and get point 2. On a cord 1600 cm long, measure 600 cm and tie a knot. We fix the ends of the cord at points 1 and 2. Taking the knot, stretch the cord and get the desired point 3. Similarly, we find point 4. We mark the resulting points with pegs and use a tape measure to check all the required distances and the equality of the diagonals with an accuracy of ~3 cm.
Next, we will make and install linings for the frame (temporary foundation). Choose wooden chocks about 1 m long and at least 30 cm in diameter. Aspen is good for lining. It is resistant to dampness if it is pre-barked.
Pads must be installed under the purlins of the frame, near the corners of the frame, in order to ensure proper distribution of the load. The installation of the linings is carried out according to the level with an accuracy of ~5 cm.
Making edging is the most common operation when processing logs. In order to complete it, you need to trim the log to size, select a side for the edging, position the future plane of the edging approximately vertically, and secure the log with staples. Don't be alarmed if the log has a curve. This will not prevent you from using it.
Along the plumb line at the ends of the log we draw vertical lines that define the plane of the edge.
We secure the cord using awls in the plane of the edge. Then we make a visual check, looking from the end of the log, and adjust the position of the cord. Using a colored pencil, we transfer the projection of the cord onto the log. To obtain the second edging line, we repeat the same operations, turning the log over.
After this, we secure the log for hewing with staples, but not tightly, so that we don’t have to knock them out later with a crowbar. Let's position the plane of the future edging vertically, make cuts and, having hewed the log, we will get an edging.
Having a chainsaw, instead of making cuts, you can make gashes, which will significantly speed up the work.
Finally, let's proceed directly to the manufacture of the log house. We begin to make a frame with eight-meter logs (purlins) of the casing, on one side of which there is an edging about 10 cm wide. With the edging, the purlins of the casing will rest on the linings. Now we need to process the ends of the purlins.
First, we cut out “boobs” 2/3-3/4 wide of the diameter of the log. The length of the “boob” L is a constant value equal to the maximum diameter of the logs of the log house.
At the end of the “boob” we select point 1, through it, according to the template, we draw a “paw” line with an extension into the house.
Similarly, according to the template, through point 2 on the outer cheek and through point 3 on the inner cheek, draw a “paw” line.
On the cheeks of the log we draw vertical lines spaced from the end by the width of the “boob” of the counter log, and we get points 4 and 5. We make a vertical cut to line 4-5.
Then you should lay the transverse logs “blocks” on the “feet” of the purlins and, securing them with brackets, check and adjust the dimensions of the log house.
Now you can tightly staple the purlins with the linings.
Drawing is the parallel transfer of points of the connecting lines of the lower log to the upper one. The line width when drawing the “foot” of the flashing crown is chosen to be minimal, but such that the line of the “foot” of the transverse log does not fall on the wane.
During the process of drawing a log, the solution of the line cannot be changed! Let's draw the lines from top to bottom, mark the top of the “paw”, and then cut it out. Let's make a medium "boob" on the runs.
To make cutting out the cheeks of the average “boob” easier, we’ll make cuts.
Along the width of the “boob” of the transverse log, we will cut out a “dovetail” in the run. Using a line, we will transfer the dovetail lines to the “boob” of the transverse log and cut it out. Let's lay the middle transverse log on the purlins of the flashing.
Now let's take care of the bottom trim. Let's make “boobs” on the purlins of the lower trim and place them above the purlins of the casing crown. Using linings and a level, it is necessary to ensure that the upper parts of the purlins are horizontal and lie in the same plane with an accuracy of ~3 cm. It should be taken into account that the butts and tops in the crowns alternate. Let's secure the purlins with brackets.
For drawing, select a line solution corresponding to the maximum gap between the logs, plus 1-1.5 cm.
Let's check the selected line solution along the ends of the log. It should be greater than a distance of 1-2 at both ends. Point 2 is the border of the wane and the inner cheek.
Let's mark the tops of the “paws” for the transverse logs.
For further work, we need to master the operation of selecting a groove. We will make cross-shaped notches along the entire length of the groove with the “heel” of the ax, and select the wood with the “toe” of the ax along the lines of the groove. When these two operations are combined, a groove is formed.
After this, you should cut out the “paws” and, placing the log in place, check the tightness of its fit. To do this, the stacked log should lie on the inner cheeks with a slight overhang. When tipped over, it will easily fall on Right place. Then we return the log to its original position and evenly lay tow (moss) on the underlying log. Now you can finally lay the top log on it.
Next, three transverse logs of the lower trim should be made and laid on the purlins. To complete the bottom trim, all that remains is to embed the logs. On the purlins of the lower trim we will mark the places where the joists will be inserted. As the zero mark (upper level of the log), we select approximately the middle of the transverse log of the lower trim. Let's move the zero mark to the corners of the log house and make notches. Let's put the finished logs in place, outline them, and then cut out their outline to the level of the insert. Let's hammer the logs with a "woman".
During your work, you may encounter typical errors.
The log “plays” (the gap between the “legs”, loose fit logs in the groove):
the reason is a knot on the bottom log or a poor groove; correction - cut off the knots on the lower log, tap the upper log with a “woman”, select places of wrinkles in the groove.
Gap between the “paws”:
reason - the line opening when drawing the “paw” was greater than the line opening when drawing the groove, or the line “collapsed”; correction - using a line with a gap equal to the width of the gap, draw a groove on both sides of the log and make a selection.
The log “hangs” on the “feet” (loose fit of the log in the groove, there is no gap between the “feet”):
the reason is that the line opening when drawing a groove is greater than the line opening when drawing a “paw”; correction - using a line with a gap equal to the width of gap 1, draw “paws” 2 and trim them.
It should be said that the following gap sizes are acceptable: in the “paw” - 0.5 cm, in the groove - 1.5 cm.
Now it’s time to lay the first window sill crown. First let's mark doorway. It should be noted that openings (both window and door) are made 5-10 cm smaller than the design size. Split logs are secured with dowels, for which markings are applied on both sides of the logs.
To mark the center lines of the dowel on both logs, it is necessary to remove the “short” (a log in a split crown). Then, using a chisel, pockets for the dowel are selected along the center line. The total depth of the pockets should be 1 cm greater than the height of the dowel. The dowel should fit tightly into the pocket.
When laying the crowns, you should constantly check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line. The last window sill in the doorway is uncut. The continuous log of this crown is also placed on two dowels.
Tow (moss) is not placed under the logs of the last window sill crown, since this crown is removed for the first relaying. Starting the relaying, first we will set the same distance upward from the zero level and make notches at the corners of the removable crown. Then we will remove the last window sill and install it on the ground, placing pads 15-20 cm high. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the verticality of the cheeks. Using a level, we will restore the horizontality of the crown along the notches. Let's check the equality of the diagonals at the corners.
Let's start laying out the window crowns, having previously marked window openings. Recommended height of openings: windows - 110-130 cm, doors - 180-190 cm. The “shorties” of window crowns are fastened with dowels. Let's lay the closing crown, which consists of continuous logs, and place it on the dowels, moving the zero mark to its corners. We will draw a vertical line at the corners of the frame to be repositioned, which serves as a control during assembly.
Now you can, having marked the logs, transfer them to the main frame, laying each crown with moss or tow. For convenience in work, we recommend making the simplest scaffolding inside the house at the level of the window sill, for which you install chocks in the corners of the house and fasten them together with poles (two poles along each side of the log house). To ensure the stability of the scaffolding, the poles in pairs must rest against the opposite walls of the log house.
The upper trim consists of two upper purlins and rafters. At the ends of the purlins, “boobs” are performed, and in the middle - only the inner cheeks. For adjustment, we will place the upper purlins (eight meters long) on the transverse logs of the last crown above the windows (there is no need to make the top of the “paws” on them).
We will check and correct sizes A-B, S-D. Using linings and staples, we will achieve horizontality at the top of the purlins.
Let's transfer the lines of the inner cheeks of the purlins to the transverse logs. Having rolled back the run, we cut out a “paw” on the outer transverse log, and a “dovetail” on the middle one. Let's make cheeks in the upper purlins according to the “dovetail” of the transverse log. On the underside of the purlins we will make pockets 4 cm deep for the tenons of the veranda pillars. Let's lay out the purlins again and, having drawn them, we'll cut them into the appropriate place.
We will prepare logs for the rafters 7 m long. All of them, except one, should be cut into two parallel edges, obtaining sleepers of the same thickness (minimum 15 cm). Let's dovetail the raw end rafter into the purlin so that its top is horizontal.
Let's mark the insertion points for the remaining processed rafters on the upper purlins. Then we’ll cut in the rafters (checking the level), cutting the purlin by no more than 1/4 of the diameter.
You can also adjust the upper level of the rafter by cutting it itself, but no more than 1/4 of the thickness.
Next, we make platforms for the rafter legs and for the wind board on the outermost (first) rafter (level with the rest). If necessary, it should be precipitated by repeated drawing. Pull the cord along the ends of the outer rafters and align the rest along it.
Make marks on the sub-strings and purlins for subsequent alignment and label them.
Make pockets for pillars on the veranda rafter (the number is determined by the design of the veranda). To eliminate the gap between the level of the lower edge of the rafters (ceiling) and the last log of the veranda wall, draw and embed a log - a “plug”.
Now let's start making the rafters. The choice of material, marking and manufacturing of rafters require special care and precision, since the strength of the roof depends on their quality. Rafter blanks are selected with the least number of knots. In no case should the knots fall on the top of the workpiece, because the tenon in this place will be significantly weakened. It is allowed that the rafters have a slight curvature in the plane of the roof slope. The length of the blanks is determined by the angle of the roof and the length of the rafters. In our case, the angle of inclination is 45°.
The prepared rafter blanks must be disassembled in pairs and numbered. On rafter blanks, the side on which the sheathing will be attached must be smooth, without protruding knots.
Let's start marking the base of the rafters. Let's make a cut along the line of the ellipse and cut out the workpiece for the tenon, and then, having made the end cut, we'll cut out the tenon itself. Next, we will mark, saw and cut out the tops of the rafters. We will disassemble the finished rafters in pairs and install them for fitting and checking the quality of connections to the rafters. Adjustment is carried out by trimming the tenons or widening and deepening the pockets.
Sometimes they simplify the work of making rafters. At the tops they are connected into half logs, and the bases are fastened to the rafters with nails without making a tenon. By thereby simplifying the task for yourself, you significantly weaken the rafters and reduce the service life of the roof in advance.
Now let's remove the rafters and proceed to the final relaying, not forgetting to lay tow (moss). Then we will lay all the rafters, except for the veranda, and fasten them with brackets staggered to prevent them from turning along the axis.
We have reached the final stage of construction - making the pillars. In the log house, the pillars form the frame of the veranda and in their own way functional purpose are divided into corner, door, window and intermediate. Corner posts provide support for the upper purlins; door and window frames are attached to window boxes. The intermediate pillars do not carry any additional load and are only a frame for the cladding. Largest area in cross-section they should have corner pillars, the smallest - intermediate ones. The distance between intermediate posts is determined depending on the length of the boards used to cover the veranda, but in any case should be no more than 1.5 m.
Making corner posts begins with determining their length and marking the pockets. For ease of marking, we will make a “fishing rod”, at the end of which we will attach a plumb line. Using such a device, we project any of the corners of the upper pocket onto the platform of the veranda transverse log of the lower trim, and in this case we obtain the distance H. Using the designed angle, we restore the counter pocket below.
Corner posts must be processed into three edges, and the distance between two parallel edges should be at least 16 cm. Next, the post should be cut to size.
Then we will make a pocket for the lower tenon with a depth of 7 cm. We will install corner pillars, placing linings 5 cm high, which should be removed six months later, after the frame has settled.
Having installed the corner posts, we will put the veranda rafters in place and secure them with brackets. The remaining pillars need to be made and installed after the frame shrinks. Door and window pillars, as well as corner ones, are processed with three edges, the rest - with two. The bottom tenon of all posts, except corner ones, should be 3 cm long.
The installation of the remaining pillars should begin from the side of the log house, securing the already installed pillars to the upper purlin (veranda rafter) with staples.
The final operation is the installation of the rafters. To carry it out, it is necessary to lay walkways from poles (boards) across the rafters, prepare jib bars from poles about 1.5 m long according to the number of rafters and nails 100 mm long. Let's lay out the rafter legs on the rafters, orienting the spikes opposite the pockets.
We will nail the tops of the rafters and install them, securing them with jibs. When installing the outer rafters, use a plumb line.
It is more convenient to install the rafters with three people. When lifting the rafters, you should simultaneously move forward, and having fixed the spikes of the rafter legs in the pockets, secure them with jibs, checking the vertical installation of the rafters.
All that remains is to fasten the rafter legs with the rafters with thin staples.
So, the log house is ready! But a log house is not a house yet. Next, you will need to make a foundation, sew up the gables, cover the roof, build a stove or fireplace, lay floors, sheathe the veranda, cut in window and door blocks etc., in general, a lot of interesting work awaits you.
The log house design we propose is universal. If its size is proportionally reduced, it will turn out very good log house baths, for example, with a size of 4x4 m. By the way, with such a building it is better to start learning carpentry, gain the necessary skills, gain self-confidence, and then you can safely offer your construction services to other gardeners.
A wooden house is an aesthetic, environmentally friendly and safe housing, which is characterized by high heat and sound insulation properties, durability and reliability. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to assemble and install a log house with their own hands. It is possible to do this, but it is difficult. When installing, it is important to take into account a lot of factors, including the quality of the log, calculations of lumber and layout of the house, installation features, etc.
Please note that low quality materials and errors in assembly will reduce the performance properties and service life of the house, lead to the appearance of rot and mold in the structure, warping of the walls and many other, no less serious, problems. But if you decide to self-construction country house or baths, this article will tell you how to make a log house.
Design and selection of materials
Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with designing a house taking into account the features land plot, future engineering systems and room design. Layout log house it can be rectangular or square, as well as shaped in the form of a semicircle, hexagon, etc. Of course, the construction of the first option will be much easier.
After creating the project and calculating the estimate, lumber is carefully selected. Rounded logs are the best option for those who want to assemble a log house and build a house themselves.
Such logs are characterized by a smooth and even surface, same sizes and diameters. This will allow installation to be carried out quickly and easily. In addition, logs that fit tightly together will provide good thermal insulation. Due to the aesthetics and naturalness of materials, a house made of round timber will fit harmoniously into environment. Wooden building will look elegant and original. Read more about the advantages of a log house.
To get a reliable and durable home, you need to use only high-quality logs. It is desirable that the lumber be from forested regions and undergo special processing. At the MariSrub company, timber harvesting takes place in the Kirov region, the Mari El and Komi republics. These regions are famous for their good, large and moisture-resistant wood.
Raw materials and logs undergo careful selection and processing in the company’s own workshop. The wood is impregnated and processed protective equipment from the negative effects of moisture and insects. Such materials will last longer and retain their original appearance and properties.
Choose logs harvested from winter forest. Since such wood is stronger and more resistant to moisture. The presence of knots of small diameter and small natural defects is allowed on lumber. Trunks quality materials characterizes yellow or dark yellow colors. These must be unspun logs of the same diameter and the same wood species. There should be no mechanical damage, rot or wormholes on the surface.
How to bandage a log house
After the materials have been selected and the foundation for the wooden house has been installed, the assembly of the log house begins. There are two main types of lashing or tying of logs. This is “in the cup” and “in the paw”. Both methods characterize the stability and strength of the structure of the future house, and they differ in the creation of grooves.
Cutting “into a bowl” or “into an oblo” is a traditional Russian method of assembling a log house. He assumes that the corners of the structure are connected to the release of the ends two times the diameter of the log. Because of this, lumber costs increase. The construction of such a house will cost more, but the warmth inside will remain for a long time. In addition, the corners of the building will not be negatively affected by wind and precipitation.
The “paw” method assumes that the logs are laid along the bracket, aligned along the outer edge and the excess is trimmed off from the inside. This is a colder room, so for insulation the ends are covered with boards. This is also necessary in order to protect the sawn wood from rotting. Please note that the log house needs to be hewn inside.
Tying logs “in the paw” is more modern and aesthetically pleasing appearance and less wood wasted. But to create a warm and durable home, it will take a lot additional work. Therefore, such cutting will become a labor-intensive process.
Loghouse installation technology
- Waterproofing is laid on the horizontal surface of the poured foundation. Roofing material is suitable as a material. For laying, the foundation is lubricated when heated and roofing felt sheets are placed on top. After drying, make another layer;
- The waterproofing layer is covered with boards at least 5 centimeters thick, and a layer of tow or jute is laid on top of the boards. This will enhance the thermal insulation properties, because up to 40% of the heat escapes through the floor and foundation!;
- The frame is installed on the insulation layer. As a rule, production logs are numbered. This wall kit is easy to assemble according to the attached diagram;
- Lay the crowns strictly level, row by row, and fasten them with dowels. Make sure the logs lie flat!;
- A layer of insulation, also in the form of tow or jute, is placed on each laid crown. The insulation is secured using a construction stapler;
- In addition to bandaging at the corners, the logs are connected every meter of length using spikes. Additional fastening will make the structure stable.
The final stage
After assembly, the log house is left for 0.5-1.5 years for shrinkage, and it is better to cover the structure with plastic film for waterproofing. During this period, you can sew up the floors and install rafters for the future roof. The floors are sewn up using boards with a thickness of 60 mm, which are laid on beams. The boards are connected using tenons. The ceiling can be laid in the same way.
After installing the roof, finishing work begins. First of all, this is insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. Don't forget about engineering systems, including electricity and plumbing, ventilation and sewerage. These communications must be carried out before interior finishing begins. Moreover, the location and installation of these systems are calculated at the stage of designing the house!
Log installation and construction wooden house DIY is a complex and time-consuming process that requires knowledge and skills. Incorrect sequence and technology of work, poor quality materials and lack of experience will lead to serious problems. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to professionals!
The masters of the MariSrub company will build a turnkey wooden house, cottage or bathhouse! We offer services for creating your dream home project, assembly and installation log house, installation of the foundation and roof, arrangement of communications and finishing buildings. The company has its own workshop for the production of rounded and chopped logs. Independent production— guarantee of careful quality control and low prices!
Wooden frames have been used in Rus' since time immemorial. And even in our time, despite the fact that new building materials have appeared, a wooden house is very popular. Such a house is considered environmentally friendly, and in terms of its strength it is not inferior to stone and brick houses.
Coniferous wood is the best choice for building a log house.
It is quite possible to build a wooden house yourself if you know the installation technology and all the details of the assembly. To know how to assemble a log house, you need to make a house project, prepare the wood and choose desired type foundation.
Loghouse construction technology
A log house is a structure made of horizontally laid logs that form walls.
Each row of logs around the perimeter is called a crown. The bottom row is a crown molding.
The structure at the corners is formed by connecting logs with protruding ends. If the house is represented only by external walls, then it is called a four-wall house, and if there is a partition inside, then it is a five-wall frame with a T-shaped connection of logs inside.
To build such a house, you need coniferous or deciduous wood. It is advisable that the trees are freshly cut and in winter time. Such wood contains less moisture. For a log house it is preferable to choose coniferous wood. The best option would be pine.
For the construction of a wooden log house, logs with a diameter of 25-26 cm are used. For areas with a warm climate, logs with a size of 22-23 cm are suitable. The material must be of high quality: without wormholes and rot.
The construction of a log house consists of several stages:
- Drawing up a house project. This stage includes the development of drawings, selection of materials, type of foundation and everything design features future building.
- Preparing for work. It includes building the foundation and preparing the logs.
- Construction of log walls. This is, in fact, the main part of the construction.
- Construction of the roof.
- Finishing walls and interior finishing work.
To properly assemble a log house, you need to choose a technology. At the moment there are three of them: Russian, Canadian and Norwegian. The first two are based on the use of large rounded logs, and Norwegian technology- on logs hewn on both sides. These technologies are different different approach to harvesting and laying wood.
Any technology requires careful preparation of the material: calibration, grinding, selection of logs by diameter.
Under wooden frame The following types of foundation are suitable:
- Columnar. Suitable for small houses. Their construction requires careful calculations.
- Deep foundation. This is the most expensive foundation. It is used for the construction of bulky buildings with basements and garages.
- Shallow. It is considered the most optimal for a wooden house. This base is suitable for any soil, and it is also reliable and economical.
Return to contents
How to assemble a log house correctly
Log fastening scheme.
First you need to remove the bark from the felled trees and cut the logs to the same length, equal to the length of the walls plus 100 cm of allowance. If there are no identical long logs, then they can be obtained by splicing short ones using the tongue-and-groove method. But the first crown of the log house must necessarily consist of solid high-quality material. Logs intended for interior work, it is necessary to cut through on both sides.
You can collect in two ways:
- using wooden dowels;
- using nails.
The first method is preferable, since the contact area between the dowel and the logs is larger, which means that the structure will be securely fastened.
The dowels are connected in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between which should be no more than 2 m.
In the case of assembly with nails, it is necessary to correctly calculate the length of the nails. If the wall thickness is 100 mm, then the length of the nail must be at least 250 mm. The head of the nail is deeply recessed into the wood to prevent shrinkage of the material.
When the foundation is dry, its surface is covered with a waterproofing material: roofing felt. Next, you can lay the first crown of the thickest logs. For strength - cross-bar spacers. The lower crown and gaskets should be thoroughly coated with antiseptic and tar.
The gaps between the lower frame and the foundation are closed with bricks and concrete mortar onto pre-laid roofing felt.
Connecting logs at corners is most often carried out using the “cup” method or the “paw” method. The first method involves tying at the corners with an allowance of logs, and “in the paw” - without an allowance. The cup method is for round logs. Cutting "in the paw" is used for both round and hewn logs. But this method is more economical, since there is no excess wood left at the corners.
During assembly, it is necessary to control the evenness of the corners and the verticality of the walls..
The uppermost crown of the log house, the mauerlat, serves as a support for the roof. The upper crown is made of strong and high-quality logs.
Appropriate openings are left for doors and windows. But these openings can be cut out after the construction of the log house. This method is preferable, since during the construction of the structure a uniform load on the foundation is ensured. This means that the house will not warp.
Return to contents
Wall treatment and interior work
After the construction of the log house, its walls should be caulked with moss, felt or tow. You can use artificial materials based on natural rubber. These materials hermetically close the gaps between the logs, so that the walls acquire a monolithic waterproofing structure.
Begin caulking vertical surfaces from the bottom using a hammer and caulk. This procedure should be carried out around the perimeter. This means that if you caulk individual walls, the structure may become warped. When the treatment of the external walls is completed, they begin to caulk the internal surfaces.
Next, the wood must be coated with antiseptic compounds. Treatment with fire-fighting substances is mandatory in those places where the stove, fireplace and chimney area will be installed. These procedures will significantly extend the life of the house.
Cutting in the “oblo” with the bowl down.
The final stage of assembling the log house will be its shelter waterproofing materials. This procedure is carried out for six months so that the house shrinks naturally.
When the walls are ready, proceed to the installation of the roof and interior decoration premises.
Usually, high-quality wood is sanded and simply varnished. To do this, you can use both transparent and colored coatings.
If you still want modern design interior, then interior walls can be sheathed wooden clapboard or drywall. But before that, you should take care of installing the electrical wires. Electric wires must be insulated: with copper conductors in metal tubes.
Wooden log houses do not require any additional insulation, so laying foam between the walls and facing material need not. If necessary, mineral wool can be used for insulation.
The floors in the log house are made of boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. They are laid tightly next to each other, secured, sanded and processed according to the example of the walls. You can varnish the floor, or lay laminate.
In order to make a log house with your own hands, use straight coniferous or hardwood logs with a diameter of 22-36 cm. The length of the logs depends on the size and layout of the future house.
The walls are cut from pre-dried or freshly cut logs with a moisture content of 80-90%. The latter are easier to process. Before you make a log house from a log yourself, you need to take into account that wood decreases in volume during natural shrinkage.
The walls made of logs are raised near the place where they are installed. They are placed on top of each other without using additional materials(for example, tow). After the log house is made with your own hands, it is left for 6-9 months. It is very important that the structure stands up well during this period. Next, the logs are marked, and the log house is disassembled and reassembled on the finished foundation using tow (jute). The seams between them are sealed 2 times: the first - during the assembly period, the second - after 1 year (after drying).
The felling of log walls begins with the laying of the first crown of logs. The crown is one row of logs that are located along the perimeter of the future house. To perform it, use the thickest logs, planed into two edges. As a rule, additional ones are placed under the beams of the first crown, since the beams in the transverse and longitudinal walls are shifted in height by half. The first row of logs is laid level. All logs, in addition to the first crown, are cut to one edge - from the bottom side in the zone of their contact with others. The logs of the first crown are processed on both sides: at the place of laying on the foundation and at the inside. The edge width should be more than 15 cm.
Read also: Floor insulation in a wooden house
The logs of the second crown are connected to the logs of the first by the “in the groove” method, when an arched groove 14-16 cm wide is selected from the bottom side of the logs. A third is placed on the second crown, a fourth on the third, etc. Before fitting each beam, they are placed in the groove heat insulating material(tow, felt, etc.). For greater strength, the crowns are fastened together with insert tenons - these are bars 12-15 cm long, 5-8 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick. They are distributed in a checkerboard pattern over the entire height and width of the log house in steps of 1.5-2 m from each other. In the walls, the spikes must be placed one above the other at a distance of 20 cm from the edge. The ends of the workpieces are processed so that the tenons fit into the sockets better. The holes for the tenons are made in such a way that after shrinkage their depth will decrease by 1.5-2.5 cm. The house must be built to its full height at once, since constructing walls from logs in parts can cause unwanted distortion.
In places where door and window openings will be located, logs are attached to their frames. However, before starting work, the shorts are marked, denoting the letters “B” and “K” - their top and butt part. The length of short logs must be carefully adjusted to prevent unevenness and gaps in the walls. To increase the reliability of fastening, spikes are made at the ends of the shorts. In this case, in certain places of window and door frames grooves are selected, and dowel pins are used to further strengthen the partition logs.
Wood being environmentally friendly pure material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.
To build a wooden one, you must first prepare the timber.
Stage 1. Preparation of round timber
Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about the ideal harvesting conditions, which we will consider below.
Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperature, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying the material will deform and crack less.
In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs (the so-called butt logs) are used during construction. These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Selection criteria also include round form and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a defect is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.
Attention! If the length is, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.
The same applies to diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the top is 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.
Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for a bathhouse. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases you can resort to the “pine-spruce” combination, in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.
Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. You can make one yourself, find it on the Internet, or order it from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.
Stage 2. Timber processing
Step 1. After the consumables have been delivered to you (or you have cut them and delivered them yourself), they need 25-30 days to rest.
Step 3. Then start processing. First, peel the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving a little of it on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.
Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the surface of the ground. You can stack it however you like - in stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.
Video - Preparing logs
Stage 3. Construction of the foundation
Let us immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:
- strip foundation;
- columnar.
Let's consider each of the options.
To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “cushion” of sand and gravel at the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build formwork 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. The resulting height will be approximately 1 m.
Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.
Video - Pouring the foundation
Place strips of sand and crushed stone inside the perimeter. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one option or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.
Columnar foundation
If necessary, it will be necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:
- brick;
- from asbestos pipes.
Place supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Pre-lay a concrete “cushion” under each support. Fix several reinforcement rods in each support so that the latter protrude above the surface by at least 30 cm.
Build formwork 40 cm high, lay reinforcement in it and tie it to rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete mortar. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can begin further work.
Stage 4. Waterproofing the base
Treat the surface of the foundation with molten and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.
Stage 5. Preparing tools
To work you will need the following equipment:
The last instrument – the “line” – will be given Special attention. For manufacturing you will need steel wire with sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the shape of a compass; you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed when marking logs.
Stage 6. Construction of a log bathhouse
There are several assembly technologies:
The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform; even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.
Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the frame crown (in other words, from the first). The logs that will serve as the frame crown should be edged to ensure a tight fit to the foundation.
Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Place the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.
Attention! “Cup” is the simplest connection option when constructing log buildings. It is done quite simply: the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured at the bottom of the log, then a recess is marked using a “line”. After re-check the size of the recess is carefully cut out with an ax.
You can use a chainsaw - this will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.
Attention! In the starting crown, the “cups” will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, place a lining in the gap that appears - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.
Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs possible. This is explained by the fact that in the future you will cut sex joists into them. To ensure a tight fit, make a longitudinal groove in the top log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the lower one and mark using the “line”.
Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular or triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, you can cut a triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with such a groove will not fit tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.
Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw and use a chisel to remove any residue.
Step 4. Insulate the joints of the logs, preferably using flax-jute fabric. Place one piece of fabric on the lower crown, and seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).
Step 5. Connect the crowns together. Here you can use:
- square dowels;
- round dowels made of wood.
The second method is preferable, because dowels can be purchased ready-made and holes can be made using an electric drill.
Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching the top pair of crowns completely and not completely the third one (from the bottom). To avoid distortion, after shrinkage is completed, recess the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.
Step 6. Raising the walls to the desired height, lay on top of them ceiling beams and rafters. If damp wood was used, then lay slate sheets instead of rafters and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it is enough to overwinter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.
In the spring, when the shrinkage is complete, start caulking.
Video - Roof made of aspen shingles
Stage 7. Doors and window openings
We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.
Stage 8. Caulking logs
After shrinkage is completed, the log house is caulked. To do this, prepare the following equipment:
- hammer;
- caulk (made of wood or metal).
Attention! If you sealed the inter-crown space with tow or moss, you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need caulking. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then it is still better to carry out the procedure.
Proceed to work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a rope, then hammer it between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.
You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.
Video – Caulk of a log house
Stage 9. Roof
As soon as the tree shrinks, you can begin construction. If you do this earlier, the roof will simply collapse.
Step 1. Lay on wall trim wooden beams(we already talked about this).
Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.
Step 3. Nail to rafter legs solid plank flooring (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a sheathing (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).
Step 4: Install roof covering according to the instructions for the specific material.
Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.
Step 6. Cover the roof gables with siding or clapboard.
After this, proceed to further planned work - pouring concrete screed or the construction of a wooden one (in the second case, the logs cut into the logs of the second crown and are fixed), install, carry out the interior and arrangement of the steam room according to your project.
- Sometimes during assembly it becomes necessary to join logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, in lower crown connections are not allowed.
- When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can assemble the logs before drying by placing a sealant between them.
- It is advisable to install windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.
Now you know how to buildDIY log house.
