The first tools for labor and hunting were invented primitive man another 2.5 million years ago. Back then it was a primitively processed stone. Just sharpened on all sides.
But humanity does not stand still, weapons are being improved. And so tourist, hunting and other types of knives appeared on the shelves of many stores. All of them are universal and suitable for any person.
But many people want to have a bladed weapon that suits them personally. With a special handle that follows the contours of the palm and a sharp blade capable of cutting nails.
In order to make a knife with your own hands and at home, you will need the ability to work with metal, wood, patience and attentiveness.
Material for production
The best choice among all alloys and metals is steel. You should pay attention to the markings; different variations have differences.
But any brand must meet the following characteristics:
- Resistance to various types corrosion (especially important when working under the influence of water);
- High hardness;
- Wear resistance;
- Impact strength (prevents the material from crumbling).
Bulat and Damascus are perfect for a blade, but the cost of such material is high due to the complexity of manufacturing. Few experienced blacksmiths are capable of performing such work.
Alloy steel is cheaper and more practical, and it will be much easier to forge. On given time The following brands are available in Russia:
- X12MF is die steel, sharpens well, has good impact strength. The only negative is that it is very afraid of corrosion. Therefore, you will have to take more care of your knife.
- 95Х18. A very popular alloy due to its strength (despite the hardness of 64 HRC).
- HVG – excellent viscosity and hardness, the edge will not crumble under strong impact. Refers to tool steel.
- 40X13 – stainless spring steel, long-term use leads to reduction and cracking of the blade edge. You can also make a handle for a knife yourself using the following components:
- Tree. The unique unique pattern of annual rings will add beauty and brutality to your blade.
- Rubberized plastic. In another way it is called soft-touch or soft plastic. Does not slip in the hand, pleasant to the touch.
- Steel. Typically 3 mm thick sheet steel is used. Pros: durability and ease of creation.
Step by step guide
The first thing you should make a knife out of is paper. The drawing should have the same dimensions as your future weapon. Think about what your blade will look like, the shape of the blade and handle.
Next comes the forging work. Having bought a sheet of steel of the required grade (or having found it in your shed, the main thing is to make sure that you have chosen desired type), you can start processing. Using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel.
It’s better not to touch small details; clarifications will be made later. This stage is needed only to give the basic shape of the future knife.
The workpiece must be passed through grinder. Here you need to process every corner, the look should match your sketch.
The cutting part of the weapon is ready, now you need to drill 2-3 holes in the shank to secure the handle. Most the best option fastenings - use rivets made of a mixture of nickel and silver. Another option is more expensive bronze rods, which are available in large home improvement stores.
In order for a piece of metal to improve its quality characteristics, has become more durable, heat treatment is required. It will increase impact strength and eliminate the excessive softness inherent in sheet steel. The forge or furnace must be heated to 800 degrees and the product must be lowered into it.
If the magnet does not attract it when brought up, then the threshold of 750 degrees has been overcome. Wait 15 seconds, remove and dip the knife into the oil (use protection, this will cause the oil to burn instantly).
But that's not all. If you do not put the workpiece in the oven at a temperature of 200 degrees, the metal will soon crumble and lose its properties.
After this, make holes in the pads so that they match the tail ones. This is quite difficult to do; you may need the help of a knowledgeable person.
Glue the parts epoxy resin, for example, JB Weld, the main thing is not to get it on the blade, and wait for the time specified in the instructions for the glue.
Now all that remains is to shape the handle by turning grinder with a petal radial circle. You can choose the shape to your taste. The last thing is polishing with a finishing compound.
If you wish, you can make a sheath for the blade yourself, the most simple option It will be simple to cut out a piece of rubber that follows the contours of your product, place it on a piece of fabric, and rivet it. This is a fairly economical and practical option.
Also, for edged weapons, you can sharpen them using a whetstone with a grit of 600-700 (fine) / so you can polish and sharpen your knife to a shine at any time.
Photo instructions on how to make a knife with your own hands
Knives are currently popular not only in the kitchen, but also among people who have connected their lives with extreme types of active leisure - fishing, hunting, tourism, etc.
On the market in modern times There are various knives: variable models, different sizes and designs. But none of them can replace a knife that you make yourself.
People often write on the Internet about how to make a knife with your own hands, but you have to try hard to make them.
Knives: types and basic properties
In the photographs of the knife on the Internet, you can see that each product is creative element created from various mechanisms.
There is a large classification of knives depending on their functionality: combat, tourist, folding (for example, butterfly), knives designed for hunting, multi-tools, bivouac knives, as well as ordinary kitchen knives.
Kitchen knives are bought ready-made, but knives intended for hunting or tourism can easily be made at home yourself.
There are also knives such as survival knives, the main task of which is to help in living in conditions wildlife. This option is relevant for tourists and hunters.
The blade of such a knife is usually no more than 12 cm. This length is sufficient for cutting wood, processing game, cleaning fish or other similar actions. Small dimensions make this knife easy to transport.
When making such a knife, great attention should be paid to the material intended to create the blade. Steel is often preferred.
Procedure for creating a knife
To get a positive result when making a knife, you should first sketch out a drawing of the knife. In this case, you can know in advance what exactly you want to achieve in the end.
Instructions on how to make a knife at home include a number of rules.
Making a knife step by step
Cut out the blank for the future knife. Relying on finished drawing, cut out the shape for the knife.
You will need a knife sharpener. With its help, the base is brought to required form. And after this you will have a clear blank in your hands, where you can distinguish the places of the handle and blade.
Rough sharpening of knives. At this stage you need to clearly know what your future knife is intended for. If it is made for hunting, fishing or hiking, then it is better to give preference to the blade type of sharpening.
And, if the knife is created to function in the kitchen or in the garden, then the razor type is suitable.
Don't expect perfect sharpening at this stage, as this is just a rough draft intended to determine the future shape.
If the blade is pre-prepared, then you can start working with the handle. To create the handle, the most various materials– this is: wood, plexiglass, bones, thick types of leather, etc.
Note!
Having cut out a blank to create a handle, you should check whether it fits comfortably in your hand, as well as its proportionality relative to the blade. The knife handle is secured using the riveting method.
The shape for the foot handle is given using a sharpening machine.
The knife is ground and polished using sandpaper.
The final sharpening of the blade is carried out after sharpening on a sharpener, also using sandpaper.
At the end, the finished knife is polished with velvet cloth or polish.
Note!
As you can see, the process of making a knife with your own hands is not that difficult, so everyone can try their hand at this area.
You can also give the future knife the necessary and desired design. Special attention pay attention to the handle during the design process.
Knife design
Because it is by the handle of the knife that others can then judge your creative thinking and status.
Some write their names on the handles of the knife, draw certain patterns and sketches in the form of tattoos.
The simplest knife can be built in an emergency in the forest; the main thing is to find the materials necessary to create it.
Note!
You just need to find the cutting part for the knife, and then you should insert it only into the handle, which will be in the form of a piece of wood, rope or leather.
Photo of a knife with your own hands
For many people, edged weapons are a symbol of strength and masculinity. This is what sometimes pushes home craftsmen to self-production some of its types. The most common option is a knife. Make this product if you have a small list electric tool simple enough.
Knife manufacturing technology
The work should begin with the selection suitable material. The blade blade must meet some mandatory requirements:
- Be convenient to use for certain purposes (a mushroom picker’s knife and a hunter’s knife are completely different tools);
- Be durable, withstand possible shock loads without destroying the blade;
- Be sharp and maintain an edge for as long as possible;
- Be as resistant to corrosion as possible.
Options for blanks home handyman enough. One of the most accessible is the flat file. Even a tool with a worked notch can easily be turned into a convenient, practical, durable knife.
Annealing the knife blank
The main difficulty associated with giving the rasp plate the required blade shape is associated with the high hardness of the part. Of course, you can process the workpiece on an emery machine, but you will have to spend a lot of time and use up several stones. An alternative is to reduce the hardness of the file. For this purpose, one of the types of heat treatment of steels is used (treatment temperature conditions), called annealing. It consists in heating the part to a relatively high temperatures(about 650 - 700 C), holding at these temperatures for several hours and slowly cooling.
At home, you can anneal a knife blank by heating it in a wood fire, in an oven, in a fireplace or in a stove, heating them properly together with the blank placed in the firebox and leaving the metal until it cools completely heating device. With this procedure, the hardness of the metal is significantly reduced, and it can be processed with both hand and electric tools.
Having achieved an optimal reduction in hardness, use a grinder to make a blank for the future knife.
Knife design and shaping
One of the most difficult tasks in making a knife is designing its shape. The most simple solution for a novice knife maker, it will be to copy the outlines from any product you like. It is best to pay attention to models with simple forms, since it will be problematic to repeat complex elements, which most often negatively affect functionality, at home.
Having some experience in fine arts, you can draw a unique author’s project. In this case, you should pay attention to the harmony of the lines and the combination of shapes of the handle and blade. The most common design mistake is a “break” along the butt line at the point where they join. If the specific application (such as a boning or skinning knife) does not require just such an articulation, then it would be best to make the transition along a straight line or a smooth arc.
The next point is the length of the handle. For most manufacturers, this parameter is 110 - 120 mm and almost does not depend on the length of the blade. In any case, even if the knife is made to suit your own hand, it is advisable to comply with such tolerance.
You should also not get carried away with the number and depth of finger grooves and stops. This reduces the convenience of working with a reverse grip and may well transform the product into the category of edged weapon.
To match the chosen shape, first make a simple cardboard template and check the correctness of the work by checking it.
One of the essential parts of a knife is the handle. For its production, the most widely used various breeds wood Our version uses oak overlays, which will be connected with brass rivets. To install them, three holes must be drilled in the tail part of the workpiece. This work will not be difficult with annealed metal.’
Selecting the shape of the slopes
Slope geometry or shape cross section blades are selected based on the purpose of the knife and the intended scope of application. The most common profiles are:
- Straight wedge from the butt. The section is an isosceles triangle. The most universal form, combining the resistance of the cutting edge to impacts of moderate force and low resistance during cutting.
- Concave slopes. This profile is typical for straight razors: a very delicate cutting edge that does not tolerate impacts or lateral loads, and high cutting qualities. Knives with this profile are convenient with a small cutting depth; as it increases, the resistance increases significantly.
- Convex lens. The easiest profile to learn. Lenticular blades are designed for heavy duty work and are especially popular with hikers and survivalists. One of the most famous examples is the Swedish Fallkniven “F1”
There are also asymmetrical descents, for example, with traditional Japanese knives, used by professional chefs. Removing them requires some experience and special equipment.
Hardening steel at home
Before assembling, sharpening and polishing the knife blade, it is necessary to return the metal to its former hardness. For these purposes, another type of heat treatment is used - hardening. Many have heard about it, but not many have done it in practice, so we will discuss hardening steel with our own hands in more detail.
Technologically, steel hardening consists of heating it to high temperatures (about 900 C) and rapid cooling, usually in a liquid coolant. The latter are the most accessible machine oil(working off) or water.
Secrets of hardening: heat source
There are several options for devices that can bring the heating of a steel part to the desired temperature threshold. Perfect option– industrial or self-made.
In the absence of such a tool, you can use another home assistant - a blowtorch.
A fairly powerful jet of flame makes it easy to heat parts of small thickness to the required temperature. Remember to move the torch along the plate being hardened to achieve even heating.
In addition, it is possible to use ordinary charcoal coupled with blowtorch. To do this, dig a small hole in the soil, pour coal into it, and place the hardened blades of the knives on the edge. Heat the coal together with the plates with a lamp until the latter reaches the required heating. This method prevents the rapid cooling of the unheated part of the workpiece and its overheating.
The third option is to make a small forge. It can be either coal or gas. Main structural elements devices - housing and source of forced air. The base of the coal hearth can be made from steel sheet 10 mm thick with a piece of pipe with a diameter of about 20 cm welded at the bottom and an outlet from it for connecting a hose from the outlet of a household vacuum cleaner.
Do not forget to drill several holes in the sheet of sufficient diameter to supply air. Wood (barbecue) or coal is used as fuel.
Hardening secrets: heating temperature
One of the most important points with self-hardening of steel - achievement of the workpiece optimal temperature heating IN production conditions this value is controlled by special high-temperature thermometers. In everyday life, it is better to use old, grandfatherly methods.
The first of them is determining the temperature by the glow color of the workpiece. It has been noticed that when heated, the metal changes its color depending on the achievement of a particular temperature. For hardening steel, the most optimal color is light cherry or crimson, which corresponds to heating at 800-850 C.
The second way is to change the magnetic properties. Another property of steel when heated is a change in its magnetic properties. It is enough to lean the heated workpiece against a strong magnet and the absence of “attraction” between them will also give a signal that the workpiece has been sufficiently heated.
Secrets of hardening: cooling
To cool a workpiece heated to the required temperatures, take a container of convenient volume and pour the working material into it. Holding the knife by the shank with long-handled pliers, lower it into the oil and wait a while. The viscosity of the liquid provides optimal course heat exchange. Be careful, the oil on the surface may ignite!
The second method of cooling is using water. In this case, it is better not to use pure liquid. Before work, dissolve a few spoons in it table salt or use brine to cool the metal. In the old days, when salt had a very high price, blacksmiths used their own urine as a brine solution.
One of the unpleasant moments that sometimes arises during hardening is the leash of the blade or its deformation, which occurs due to uneven heating or cooling. To avoid this, it is best to lower the blade into the cooling medium strictly vertically cutting edge down.
Secrets of hardening: vacation
Hardening has only a positive property, from the point of view of improving the operational properties of steel, which consists in increasing the hardness several times, but also a negative property, consisting in increasing the fragility of the workpiece. In other words, when a hardened knife hits metal, stone, wood or bone, the blade can easily split. To avoid this, a third type of heat treatment is used, called tempering. The workpiece must be heated to a temperature of 180 - 200°C, kept for an hour and cooled in air. Many home craftsmen temper hardened knives from files in molten lead, however, due to higher temperatures (the melting point of lead is 327 ° C), this can cause a significant decrease in hardness and loss of cutting properties. It is best to use an ordinary gas or electric oven, if you can persuade the owner of the house.
Assembling a homemade knife
Having completed all the above operations and bringing the knife steel to the required hardness, we proceed to assembly. We adjust the shape of the pads to the shank of the knife and cut out two additional leather inserts.
Then we lubricate the parts with glue, install brass inserts on the glue and leave to dry for several hours.
It is better to make the extreme insert not from a rod, but from a tube of the required diameter. This will help attach the finished product to a leather strap during use, which will prevent its loss while hiking, fishing or hunting.
After the glue has dried, carefully treat the handle and blade sandpaper. To protect the blade from corrosion, it is enough to polish it well after final sharpening and finishing.
Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
Make a quality one hunting knife. The material we use is 1080 steel. This is a fairly strong steel that can be hardened and processed well. The knife is made with simple common tools; the main work is carried out using a grinder with a good supply of wheels.
Materials and tools used
- steel blank 1080 ();
- grinder with grinding and cutting wheels;
- different sandpaper;
- drill with drills ();
- rods for pins;
- epoxy adhesive;
- wood for finishing handles;
- paper, pencil, etc. (for making a template);
- marker;
- sharpener;
- heat source for hardening;
- pliers, hammer, etc.;
- household oven;
- clamps or vices;
- files for metal and wood;
- preferably tape grinding machine ().
The process of making a knife with your own hands:
Step one. We make and transfer the template
First of all, you need to make a template. We find a ready-made one on the Internet and print it out, or draw it ourselves. Next, you will need to cut it out, then attach it to the workpiece and outline it with a marker. By the way, if you cut out a template from cardboard, you can hold it in your hands to make sure that the future knife will be comfortable.
Step two. Rough work with the profile
Next, we arm ourselves with a grinder and slowly cut out the rough shape of the profile, always remember that steel heats up quickly, and this is bad for it. When working with a grinder, be sure to cool the workpiece with water and slowly cut it out by hand.
Step three. Finalizing the knife profile
After rough cutting there will be uncut areas on the profile, these are various roundings and so on. To cut out all these areas, the author used a sharpener. You can also use a grinder with grinding wheels. As for the case when there is no such tool, you can use files various shapes and so on. Moreover, while working hand tools, again, there is less chance of overheating the metal.
You will also have to form bevels on the knife. Some people do this with a grinder, but it is best to use a belt sander. All cutting characteristics of the knife will depend on the bevels. How thinner blade, the better the knife cuts and the easier it is to sharpen. First, mark the bevels on the knife and be sure to mark the center line on the future blade. It will allow you to make bevels at one angle. To split the blade into two halves, you can use a drill of the same diameter as your workpiece.
Step four. Drilling holes for the pins
If you plan to harden your knife, always complete all major metalworking work before hardening. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to work with metal, or you will not be able to complete some work at all. For example, it is extremely important to drill holes for the pins. At a minimum, there should be two of them, this is quite enough to securely fix the linings. They do more, but it’s more for beauty.
Step five. Hardening
Hardening includes two stages, first the steel is made as strong as possible, and then softened a little so that it is not brittle; this procedure is called tempering. For hardening you will need a stove or a good fire. The temperature needs to be quite high, the workpiece needs to be heated until it glows bright red, and then cooled in oil, motor oil or vegetable oil will do. To understand exactly what you have achieved desired temperature, bring a magnet to the workpiece; if it does not attract, the steel is ready for cooling.
After hardening, the metal will be very fragile, the knife will easily break into pieces if you drop it. To make it more elastic, you need to temper the steel. Here on help will come household oven, heat it to a temperature of 200 degrees Celsius and put the knife on for an hour and a half. After this, the oven should cool down along with the knife; do not open it. That's all, the release has been completed, you have a very durable, high-quality metal in your hands.
Before further work, sand the surface to a shine.
Step six. Cutting out the handles
Now we need to make the handle covers. We select required material, it can be wood, animal bones, antlers, plastic and much more. We cut rough blanks to size and drilled holes for the pins.
Step seven. Glue the overlays
For this step you will need epoxy and a clamp, or a vice. You should also prepare two pins. Pins can be made from brass, copper, and so on; if you don’t have anything at hand, you can even use ordinary nails. We dilute the resin with the hardener and glue the halves together. Then firmly clamp the handle with a clamp and leave until completely dry. Epoxy usually takes about 24 hours to dry.
Step eight. Processing the handle
When the glue is completely dry, you can form a handle. First ask her desired profile, you can work with rasps. A grinder or sharpener will also work, but in this case, be careful and do not grind off too much. We slowly draw out the main profile, and then sand the handle with sandpaper. Gradually reduce the grit of the sandpaper to make the handle perfectly smooth.
Step nine. Completion
Another important step is impregnation of the handle, since wood actively absorbs moisture, and for a hunting knife this is generally unacceptable. Wood that has been saturated with moisture may crack after drying; however, when wet, it expands quite a lot, which is also bad. The handle needs to be soaked linseed oil, it is especially good if it is boiled (natural drying oil). After soaking, let the oil dry and then polish the handle until it shines. If you plan to store the knife for a long time, oil the metal as well.
A hunting knife is essential for every hunter. First of all, it is used for finishing and butchering prey, but besides this it remains faithful assistant in the most different situations on the hunt. Nowadays you can find a huge number of different models and modifications of blades on sale. But despite this, the need to make your own knife may arise. This usually happens due to the inability to buy the blade you need, either to replace a lost or broken one you love, or one you saw from friends and liked, or the knife you need is not on sale.
Making a knife from a 9HF saw
In this article we will not focus on the shape and design of the blade, the type and width of the sharpening, etc. We believe that finished project or we already have a sample and will focus on the production itself.
In order for a homemade hunting knife to meet the basic requirements for such blades, it is recommended to make it from high-carbon alloy steels. For example:
- 9HF– tool alloy steel, used for the manufacture of frame, band and circular saws, punches, trimming dies and a number of other tools. Usually saw blades are used as blanks;
- R6M5– high-speed alloy steel of high strength. It is used to make many types cutting tool, drills, saw blades, the latter can be used to make a workpiece;
- 65G– spring steel, with high wear resistance, can be blued and blackened. They make springs, springs, gears, etc. For blanks, in addition to sheets, rear springs are used trucks. Considered one of the cheapest knife materials;
- X12, R3M3F2 and a number of others are also suitable.
The material for the workpiece can be taken from the above products, although now on the Internet you can order a plate for the workpiece from almost any steel. As a recommendation, take a pendulum saw blade for metal, the usual dimensions are 400x30 mm, thickness 2 mm, rough surface, color black or gray. 
If you want to make a homemade knife at home, in addition to the material for the workpiece, we will need:
- Corner Sander(Bulgarian)
- Wheels for it, cutting wheels for alloy steel, for example inox A54S BF, sharpening and grinding.
- Drill or drilling machine
- Vise
- Pobedite and other special drills
- Files and diamond file
- Emery machine (very desirable).
The knife making process will be as follows:
The handle of the knife can be wound using paracord or made of wood; in the latter case, we drill holes in the handle according to a template, according to a sample or drawing. Holes are drilled using special drills with accompanying cooling using oil. It is more convenient to do this on a drilling machine.
To simplify the process, holes are drilled first with small diameter drills and then gradually drilled out to the desired size.
Handle
Knives are decorated with different handles. The choice of material for their manufacture depends on the purposes for which the knife is intended, ease of use and personal preferences of the owner. Below are two ways to make a knife handle at home.
Wrapping the handle with paracord in a few minutes
Using a paracord cord as a knife handle is not only easier and faster, but also more practical. You will always have a couple of meters of cord with you, which can be used for a variety of purposes when surviving in extreme situations.
For the winding we need:
- cord, 2 – 2.5 m;
- thick adhesive tape or electrical tape;
- lighter or matches;
- scissors;
- gloves;
- screwdriver.
Before you start winding the cord, decide whether you need a lanyard loop and if so, where it will be, on the side of the blade near the stop or at the end of the handle. If it is available, in addition to the ability to hang a knife, in the first case you can thread it thumb, to make it more convenient and reliable to hold the knife, in the second, you can use it to remove the knife from the sheath, etc.
Paracord is wound in the following order:
- We wet the cord, and it stretches better, and when it dries, it will sit more solidly on the knife.
- We seal the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts or cutting the cord. It is better to perform all operations with gloves.
- We press one end of the cord on the head of the handle so that 10 cm remains free.
- We form a loop from the cord, laid along the handle so that the top of the loop protrudes a couple of centimeters beyond the cord winding area.
- Then holding the knife in your left hand and pressing thumb both ends of the loop right hand We begin to wind the cord around the handle, starting from its head.
We make the winding tight, turn to turn, do not tighten it too much, keep in mind that the cord will still shrink after drying. 
- Having brought the winding all the way to the blade, we thread the remaining end of the cord into the protruding part of the loop.
- We cut off the excess cord, leaving about 3–5 cm, and burn the end of the cord.
- After this, pulling the free end of the cord from the side of the handle head, we pull the loop under the winding until the end threaded into it is hidden under the winding. Avoid pulling the loop completely out, otherwise the entire winding will unravel.
Winding is complete. With this option of winding, we will not have a loop for a lanyard. If we want to form it, the winding is somewhat more complicated. Initially, two loops are placed on the handle on both sides of the knife.
To form a loop for a lanyard on the head of a knife, the end of the cord is pressed onto the head of the handle and one loop is pulled to the blade, then the cord is thrown over the head and a second loop is placed on the other side. The winding starts from the head of the knife. Having finished the winding, the remaining end is threaded through both loops near the blade and pulled under the winding by the loop in the headband, thereby forming it.
So that the loop is near the stop, we do the same thing, but on the contrary, we start laying and winding from the stop, and pull the loop there to tighten the clamped end under the winding.
Making an overhead handle as an alternative to paracord
If you are a classicist and want to make a regular handle, use wood for this purpose. It is more accessible, easier to work with, the wooden handle is more pleasant to the touch, does not get cold, slips less in the hand, and if processed correctly, does not absorb moisture. The handle of a knife can be made of oak, beech, maple, birch, walnut or mahogany. In order not to waste time and effort on preparing and drying wood, there are two simple ways get her. The first is parquet, you can buy it in a special store, where, by the way, expensive varieties are sold individually. Second - old furniture, in the attic, in the garage, at the dacha, with friends, you can always find unnecessary household rubbish and use it. 
For the handle you need two dies if you have a hand standard size, then 10 - 15 mm thick, this is with a margin for processing, so that the thickness of the future handle is about 20 mm. The length of the workpieces is 150 - 200 mm, so that there is room for fixing them during initial processing.
In addition to the tree, we will need:
- dowels made of aluminum, copper, brass, iron according to the number of holes and the corresponding diameter;
- drill with drills or drilling machine;
- drills according to the number of holes in the handle of the same diameter;
- a sharpening or grinding machine, it can be replaced by a wood file and a lot, a lot of time;
- jigsaw or manual jigsaw, or see the previous paragraph;
- an engraving machine or a file with a needle file;
- sandpaper of different numbers down to the finest;
- epoxy based adhesive;
- linseed oil;
- thick adhesive tape or electrical tape;
- vice, clamp.
We make the handle as follows:
- Before starting work, wrap the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts.
- The first step is drilling. We place the knife blank on a wooden block, press it with a clamp or, at worst, wrap it with tape and drill holes. To make the hole neat, first drill thin drill, and then drill out to required diameter. After the first hole has been drilled, we insert a key or a drill of the same diameter into it, this is done to fix it so that the die does not move. Let's move on to the next hole.
- We drill the second die in the same way.
- After drilling, we assemble the dies on a knife, using keys or drills, to make sure that all the holes match.
- Then, attaching the dies one by one to the knife using dowels or drills and a clamp, we outline the contour of the handle along the contour of the knife. It is advisable to mark the handle with a slight indentation, 1 - 2 mm, for subsequent processing.
- After marking, we cut out the handle with a jigsaw or grind it on a grinding wheel; in extreme cases, the file is in your hands.
- Preparing the dowels. To make the homemade knife look aesthetically pleasing, we will not rivet the dowels, but glue them in. To do this, use an engraving machine or a file to make chaotic cuts on the keys, in which the glue will harden and set. At the ends of the keys we remove an inclined chamfer at 450.
- Since after gluing it will be inconvenient to process the cheeks of the stop, we finally process and polish them using sandpaper.
- We carefully sand the handle halves from the inside so that they fit tightly when gluing to the plane of the knife shank.
- Before gluing, we make a final test assembly.
- We carry out the gluing itself according to the instructions for the glue. The assembly procedure is as follows: lubricate inner side one half, insert dowels greased with glue into it, put a knife on them, and then the greased second half.
We clamp the assembled handle in a vice and remove the excess squeezed out glue. Leave the clamped handle for a day. - After the glue has hardened using files, emery, grinding wheel and so on, we finally shape, sharpen and polish the handle of the knife.
- When the handle is completely polished, it's time to soak. It is best to saturate wood with linseed oil. You can buy it in a store for artists, they breed it oil paints.
The handle is kept in oil for three days to a week. The process can be speeded up by boiling the handle in oil for a couple of hours, but you must strictly monitor the temperature, otherwise the glue may leak. 
- Then the handle should dry at natural temperature for about a month, during which time the oil will polymerize and the wood will harden and become impervious to moisture.
- After drying, the handle is finally polished with a soft cloth.
Sharpening for beginners
Before we talk about sharpening a hunting knife, we need to remind you that homemade knives made from the metals recommended in the article, they are very difficult and take a long time to sharpen, since the alloy steels used have high hardness. This must be remembered when using a knife for purposes other than its intended purpose.
Now about the sharpening itself. At home, knives are sharpened on special sharpening stones. Such stones are ceramic (the cheapest and most common), diamond, natural and from Japanese sea stones. The principle of sharpening on them is approximately the same, so in the future, by default, we will talk about the most common ceramic sharpening stone. 
In order to sharpen a knife efficiently, it is advisable to have either two sharpening stones of different grain sizes, or, what happens more often, a sharpening stone whose sides have different grain sizes. For ease of sharpening, the size, or rather the length, of the stone should be greater than the length of the knife blade.
It is advisable to sharpen a knife with both hands, so it is advisable to place the sharpening stone on a separate board, securing it either in a hole specially cut for this purpose, or using six nails driven into the sides. 
Sharpening the knife begins on the roughest stone. At this stage, the whetstone does not need to be wetted. We place the stone randomly on the table, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to sharpen on it.
The entire sharpening process consists of giving the edge of the blade an acute angular shape. When doing this, you need to remember a few basic rules:
- need to pick up optimal angle sharpening the knife and sticking to it throughout the entire process;
- The knife is driven across the stone with the blade forward, as if cutting off a thin layer from it;
- in one movement you need to sweep the entire edge of the blade for uniform sharpening;
- the edge of the blade should always be perpendicular to the direction of movement;
- each next time the blade must be turned over and held with the other side so as not to displace the center of the blade chamfer;
- movements should be smooth, without pressure;
- It is better to sharpen both sides with a unidirectional movement, either towards yourself or away from yourself, since moving the hand away from you is always worse and weaker than moving it towards yourself.
Now regarding the sharpening angle. It can be from 450 to 300, in the first case the knife will hold an edge longer, in the second it will be sharper. It is better to sharpen a hunting knife exactly at 300, this is not difficult to achieve, just when sharpening, move the knife as if you were cutting a thin slice of butter or cheese.
After you have turned the initial sharpness and brought out the angle of the blade edge, you can move on to a stone of lesser dispersion. It is advisable to periodically moisten it with water so that the edge of the blade glides better and metal dust does not clog the pores. 
Finally sharpen the blade to mirror shine And razor sharp, you can straighten it on an old leather belt with GOI paste. main feature editing with GOI paste is that the knife is led in the opposite direction to the blade, i.e. butt forward.
Making a sheath (case) from leather
One of the necessary accessories for a hunting knife is a sheath. They are needed to protect the blade from dulling, and everything around from cuts and damage to things.
You can make a homemade sheath yourself at home, from a small piece of leather about 3 mm thick.
For this, in addition to the skin, you will need:
- scissors;
- a sheet of thick paper for a template;
- pen;
- an awl (a sharpened nail or nails can replace it);
- small nails and a hammer;
- universal glue;
- fork;
- paraffin candle;
- fine sandpaper or grinder;
- nylon thread and one or two large needles;
- pliers;
- snap closure;
- wax or cream.
The procedure for making the cover will be as follows:
- Making a template. Applying the knife blade to a sheet of paper, trace it along the contour.
Then around this contour with a centimeter indent we draw another contour, it will be the main one. Cut out the template along the outer contour. Separately, we cut out a T-shaped part for the fastener, the width of the harness is about 20 mm, and we measure the length of the harness along the handle of the knife. - Mark the details on the skin. Having attached the template to the leather, we outline the part for one side of the sheath, then, moving the template to the side by 5 - 8 mm, we outline only one side to get a part for half of the insert.
Then, turning the template over, we repeat the steps, outlining the second side and the second half of the insert. We apply and outline the T-shaped part of the fastener. 
- Take scissors and carefully cut out all the details from the leather.
- Applying it to the knife, we try on all the details to see if they match.
- We rub the ends of the insert on the clasp with paraffin candles, and then sand them using sandpaper.
- We apply the fastener to one half, and using an awl and nails we mark and punch holes for the thread, in two rows.
- We sew the fastener; the thread can be pre-lubricated with paraffin.
- For ease of subsequent stitching, we glue the parts together. We cut out a part from the template along the contour of the blade itself. We place this part on the half of the sheath and coat it with glue so that the glue does not come out beyond the inserts. Glue according to the instructions on the tube. Lubricate and glue the inserts.
- At the tip of the sheath, between the inserts, we cut a groove for ventilation.
- Glue the other half. We place the sheath under the press for a while for high-quality gluing.
- We check how the knife fits and sits.
- Use sandpaper to sand the edges of the sheath.
- Using a fork, running two prongs along the edge of the sheath, outline the outline for stitching. Use a fork to mark the holes for the thread.
- If you want, you can get fancy by cutting a thread groove into the face of the scabbard so that it is flush with the leather. In this case, it will then need to be polished with wax or cream in the same color as the scabbard.
- Punch holes for the thread with an awl.
- We sew the cover. You can sew with one thread, or with two threads, threading them through the holes one at a time.
- Attach the button clasp.
- We finally grind and polish the scabbard with wax or cream.
The scabbard is ready.
