From time to time you really want to refresh your interior and bring something new into it. The decoupage technique allows you to quickly and without special costs update furniture and interior items, give the old furnishings individuality and sophistication. Today we will show you how to transform an ordinary bedside table into a stylish piece of furniture.
DIY bedside table decoupage
The bedroom is a room where comfort and harmony traditionally reign. If it is decorated in light or pastel colors with floral motifs, then shabby chic furniture will fit perfectly into such an interior with its light color scheme, smooth lines, scuffs and floral patterns.
For work you will need: a primer, structural paste, a stencil with an ornament, sandpaper, acrylic paints, brushes, PVA glue, transparent matte varnish, two-component craquelure, napkins with roses.
1. So, first you need to prepare the surface for work: wash it, degrease it with any alcohol solution and remove the fittings.
2. Apply one layer of primer to the prepared surface, which will provide good adhesion and protect the paint from peeling.
3. Since our bedside table is quite angular, and smooth lines look better in the shabby chic style, we will apply three-dimensional ornaments to the façade using structural paste. The structural paste is applied with a palette knife to a stencil with an ornament. After the patterns have dried, remove the stencil and lightly go over them with fine sand. sandpaper so that the ornament becomes smooth.
4. To give our ornaments a sense of 3D effect and “age” the surface, we apply dark acrylic paint - this is what will appear through the cracks on the white bedside table. To get one like this gray shade, you need to add a little black to the white acrylic paint. So let's apply dark shade only on the facade and corners, and on the countertop - only White color.
5. Next, we move on to decoupage the tabletop: select a suitable floral pattern on napkins, carefully tear it off and peel off the two lower layers. Glue the ornaments onto a dry surface in the corners using PVA glue. If the glue is too thick, it is better to dilute it with water 1x1. For gluing, choose a wide flat brush or a fan brush - it will be more convenient. You can apply glue directly to a napkin: apply the ornament to to the right place and apply glue on top with smooth movements. After the glue has dried, coat the tabletop with clear varnish. It is better to use a matte varnish, since glossy surfaces do not look very good in the shabby chic style.
6. The next stage: paint over the remaining surfaces with white acrylic paint and sand the protruding parts of the bedside table and volumetric ornaments made from structural paste with sandpaper - a dark shade appears, and the bedside table acquires an “aged” vintage surface.
7. Then we do decoupage on the front of the bedside table: select a floral pattern on a napkin, peel it off upper layer and glue it with PVA glue. To prevent the flowers from appearing too flat, you can lightly paint on the shadows with pale pink paint. As soon as the glue dries, we varnish everything with a transparent matte varnish.You can apply 3-4 layers of varnish: the more layers, the longer the furniture will last.
If you love the gentle comfort of grandma's house, the atmosphere of warmth and trust, roses and angels, pastel colors and old furniture, if you like a leisurely passage of time, then this is the place for you. Style shabby chic designed to immerse you in the atmosphere of the good old English village.
Farmers Mary and Sid are not rich, their business is average, neither shaky nor weak, so they cannot afford to buy new furniture. Savvy Mary came up with the idea of buying used furniture at auctions, painting it again and putting it in order. Soon the house of the young couple was unrecognizable: bright spacious rooms, furnished with crisp white furniture, decorated with draperies in pinkish-white colors, turned old barn into a cozy family nest. And it’s okay that the furniture is not new, and the curtains and tablecloths were bought from Mrs. Grace, and the entire interior has a slight touch of wear and tear - this is its highlight.
From simple to complex
Style shabby chic invented by English designer Rachel Ashwell. She often loved to stroll through flea markets, sales and buy old furniture. At home, Rachel “conjured” it for a long time, and as a result, new “old” chairs, armchairs, chests of drawers and sideboards, and other household utensils were obtained. First, the designer decorated her “finds” for own home and families. Later, Rachel realized: her furniture turns out to be very beautiful and cozy and is popular with other people.
The main features of the style shabby chic are:
Delicate pastel colors: boiling white, ivory, soft pink, light blue;
The presence of a worn effect, which shows several layers of paint, effect antique furniture with the patina of time;
The main motifs used as designs on furniture, textiles, dishes and other accessories are roses and angels, also in delicate colors;
Geometric designs are not welcome; sometimes slightly noticeable stripes or checkered patterns are acceptable;
Furniture slipcovers are also a hallmark of Rachel Ashwell's style.
Chic, shine, beauty!
Today, the covers of many fashion magazines are full of interiors in the style shabby chic, it is becoming more and more popular. And it’s not surprising, because this is one of the most democratic styles, allowing you to independently make stylish, cozy furniture and accessories. This is especially true in times of crisis. The main thing is not to be afraid to try and experiment.
And old furniture, as you know, will endure anything. It is important to follow the rule: if you are going to furnish a room in the “shabby shine” style, then it is best if all the interior items, walls and small details are designed in this style. Because one detail or two is not enough and will look inharmonious, not creating a true shabby chic atmosphere.
As a derivative of style shabby chic, technology also stood out shabby chic, which allows you to decorate various objects, from furniture to photo frames and even... garden watering cans.
If you liked the shabby chic style trends, and your hands are not afraid of new things, then it’s time to start experimenting. Experiments in this style are good because they are economical and do not take much time.
For your first steps, old “junk” furniture, a photo frame, a wooden box - in a word, any thing that you don’t mind will be quite suitable for you. If you get the hang of it and get the hang of it, you can move on to more “monumental” items. For example, decorating an old grandmother’s sideboard or chest of drawers.
First, let's figure out what we need in the process:
1. Acrylic paints - white, brown, red (can be found both in special stores for decorators and in regular hardware stores).
2. Brushes (if your item is rather large, then larger brushes).
3. PVA glue.
4. Sandpaper of different grits.
5. For decoration - three-layer napkins with roses or angels (optional).
6. Acrylic matte varnish.
7. The item itself (it can be new or old, if new, then unpainted). Good things are sold at IKEA - these are new ones, and old romantic pieces are sold at a flea market, at a neighbor's grandmother, or you can find them in your own corners. Very often I see good old furniture near garbage containers - this is generally a treasure trove of everything vintage and interesting.
Let's, for example, “remake” the old boring stool. If it is covered with varnish or paint, sand it thoroughly. It is best to remove the old layer with a coarse abrasive - it will be faster. Then, having blown away the remaining dust and debris, we cover the entire surface with primer (a mixture of PVA and white acrylic enamel). Let it dry. Next, cover it with brown acrylic paint. It’s better to use 2 layers, especially if the acrylic is not very opaque (a little transparent). Each layer should dry thoroughly - it is better to leave it overnight.
After the brown paint has dried, cover the edges and corners with a layer of paraffin or wax, for which we use a candle. This is done simply - use the surface of the candle to thoroughly rub your stool along all the convex places and hollows (if there are any) carved elements). And we pay attention to the places where the paint has peeled off. Special attention.
Preparing the paint for the final layers. First, choose a color. If it is pure white, then we cover the stool with the finished paint. If your choice fell on ivory or soft pink, then you need to mix white paint with others. The main thing is not to add a lot of dye to the white color - just a few drops of brown or red will create the desired tone. Experiment.
The painting will also be multi-stage with breaks for drying (it is important not to rush here). As a rule, this is 2-3-4 layers, depending on the hiding power of the paint ( Brown color should be completely covered with white, without gaps). We leave last layer dry properly.
So, in front of us is a stool, completely covered light paint, the finger does not stick to it. The most interesting point. We will give our “masterpiece” a shabby look. To do this, take sandpaper, maybe 800, or coarser - whatever is more convenient for you. Do not take one that is too large - the abrasions will be torn and rough. It’s best to go over it with a little coarser sandpaper, and then “smooth it out” with 800 grit. We sand the places that we rubbed with a candle.
As a result, the white paint wears off, revealing the brown paint. Before your eyes, a brand new stool is “aging.” It is important that the rubbing is smooth and even, without pieces of paint sticking up. To make it more natural, you need to sand unevenly - somewhere harder, and somewhere slightly touching.
Clean the surface from dust. Next, we either cover the stool with matte varnish, or first decorate the seat with a rose or an angel using the decoupage technique. After gluing the flower, we also coat the entire stool with varnish. It is advisable to apply several layers, allowing time for the previous layer to dry.
That's it, your new “old” stool in shabby chic style is ready!
Liliya Khlebnikova
Master classes from decoupage masters
Subtle abrasions. Creating a box in the shabby chic style from the master “Chest of Wonderful Things” (Olga)
I decided to show how I did one of my works, I hope MK will be useful to someone.
1. Here is a blank made from MDF. I removed the pencil with an eraser and sanded it.
2. I also sanded the inside.
3. A napkin that I will use to decorate.
4. Sanded and prepared the brush, roller and primer.
Many people prime immediately with black primer. If there is one, then they can do it too. I don’t have black primer, only white, so I prime with it.
I applied the primer with a brush.
6. Leveled it with a roller.
7. I also primed the inside, it will be painted there, and on smooth surface mdf paint will lie unevenly (you can see it on the ground).
8 Now I’ve covered everything tightly with soil, now it needs to dry thoroughly. I primed it in 2 layers and let it dry; if it was wood, then 1 layer would be enough. Sanded with fine sandpaper 240.
9. Since I primed with white, I need to coat it with dark, shabby scuffs are usually dark, black. Personally, I don’t really like black, I think it looks a bit harsh. I love more soft colors, so I mix black and burnt umber.
10. It turns out to be a delicious dark chocolate color.
11. I cover the box with this color using a brush, level it with a roller, dry it and sand it with fine sandpaper.
12. The paint remains, it’s a shame to throw it away. You can cover it with film or put it in a jar; under the film you can use it for 24 hours, after which it will begin to dry out.
13. Now the most interesting thing - we take a candle, I rub it with a candle only where I want there to be strong abrasions and chips, and where they actually form in reality.
14. These are the most convex parts: legs, corners - what breaks and chips first. And a few strokes somewhere. I sweep away the paraffin pellets with a hard brush.
15. Now we need to cover light color. Shabby chic usually uses white and pastel colors. I don’t want completely white, so I take warm white.
You can make it yourself - you can add a drop of ocher to the white one. it will work out Ivory; if the umber is burnt, then there will be a pinkish tint, if the umber is natural, then it will have a slightly greenish tint, etc.
16. Here you can see the difference between white and warm white.
17. One layer, the bottom one is visible, it needs to be thicker.
18. Two layers
19. Here she is all.
20. I take 240 sandpaper and begin to work actively.
21.Well, that’s actually what happens.
22, 23. In other places I simply rubbed vigorously with sandpaper to create abrasions. Thanks to the fibrous structure of MDF, abrasions are interesting.
24. Work angles are more active.
And this is what happened
29. I glue the napkin using a file.
30. You can smooth it out with a rubber roller or spatula. Using a spatula with strong pressure can flatten the napkin, so I do everything carefully.
31, 32. Once again I coat the top with glue, paying special attention to the chamfer, you need to coat everything well and press it with a brush, because if there is a bubble or even more than one, everything will simply start to peel off, and the work will have a poor quality appearance. Then I dry everything well.
33. The box is dried and covered with 1 layer of varnish for protection. Firstly, I protect the napkin, and secondly, I will be working with stamps next, and if suddenly something goes wrong, then I can wash everything off.
34. For stamping, I select the paint to match the motif; I want to make lace; this is quite suitable for the shabby chic style.
I mix white, natural umber, and a little bit of sienna.
35. Silicone stamp.
36. Mixing paint.
37. I distribute the paint over the entire plate, this makes it easier to dip the sponge.
38. A piece of sponge will be needed.
39. Dip the sponge into the paint, distribute it evenly, remove the excess on a paper towel.
40. Now we rub the stamp, don’t hit it, but rather rub it, and without pressing. If you scratch, the paint will get inside the stamp and during subsequent stamping there will be a continuous stain.
You can make a kind of stamp pad: put a cotton cloth folded 2-4 times on a wide plate, piece of glass, tile, or some other material that does not absorb paint, soak it with paint, and then dip the stamp itself - like a stamp. But much more paint is wasted this way.
41. Smeared the stamp
42. You can practice on a piece of paper.
43. Pressed as evenly as possible. You can roll it with a roller, but be careful not to move it, or put a press down and press evenly, but do not press very hard and not pointwise, otherwise there will be dirt.
44. It’s imprinted, but for the box I need it to be a little paler and more delicate, so I’ll smear it even less.
45, 46. I am preparing the stamp for further work.
47 Imprinted on the surface.
48. What happened.
49. That's how it happened.
50. This is the long side of the box, and here the stencil did not completely cover the entire side, so I tried on a dry stencil, did not apply paint completely to it, but only where necessary, I printed it.
51. The transition is visible, but when the paint dries, it will not be so noticeable, but if it is still noticeable, then sandpaper will help. I went over the paint with fine sandpaper, dotted in some places, because I needed old lace.
52. Inside there are 2 layers of soil.
53. The paint did not apply very evenly, so to get a dense color, I applied 3 layers of paint with a brush, and after drying, sanded it with fine sandpaper.
54. These are the aging mediums I use, there are 3 colors.
55-56. These are the colors, I chose the middle one.
57. I will age the inside of the box, because in life it does not happen that if a box has been actively used, it is new on the inside and old on the outside, or vice versa. I will age it with a brush, because the dirt needs to be driven into the corners, which is where it gets most dirty. I put the medium on the brush, blend it on a towel and off I go.
58. I apply it to the corners.
59. Already aged, there is also a nuance here - if you apply it only in the corners, the rest of the surface will be clean, then this also does not happen. But you don’t need to be very bright either, so I just went over everything with an almost dry brush.
60. I also aged the lid and stamped it with the same paint as the outside of the lace, but diluted it a little with a glazing medium so that the imprint was more vague and delicate.
61. I decided to trim the inside with lace. But it must first be prepared. Firstly, any natural lace needs to be wetted, dried and ironed before use, because it tends to shrink, especially if glued to pva, it gets wet from the glue, dries out and becomes shorter. Secondly, I didn’t like the color, everything blends into the surface, so I’ll paint it. You can paint it with paint, you can use a medium, I decided that I would get dirty.
Important! I decorate with lace and ribbon at the last moment (after final varnishing), i.e. the box must be varnished and sanded, varnished.
62, 63. The lace is prepared, put some medium on the sponge and begin to color it lightly.
64. This is how it will look in the box.
65. I will glue it to “Moment Crystal”, there are also special features here. The moment dissolves the paint before it dries. Once dry, it can be removed quite easily. In any case, I removed it easily. But if you run a toothpick over it while it is not dry, it will damage the top layer of paint as well.
The lace seam should be on the side where it is not visible (preferably in the corner). Therefore, we open the box and look at it: the two far corners immediately disappear, so either the right or the left, but the front ones.
66.67. We do not apply glue to the entire surface at once, but gradually. They applied a piece, smeared it with a toothpick, glued it on, and so on.
68. It worked.
And then the decoration of the lid of the box with ribbon, also on the “Moment Crystal”, the joint under the bow, a bow made of lace and ribbon, everything is also glued on the “Moment Crystal”.
Well, and the actual finished result. Vintage box "Sharmel".
http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/794223-nezhnye-pote...katulochki-v-stile-shebbi-shik
Decoupage for beginners - MK from Maya Balagurova (maya125): Decoration cutting board
Materials:
plywood cutting board
three-layer colorful napkin
scissors
brushes, one bristle is flat, the second is round foam
PVA glue
white acrylic paint
acrylic varnish
scissors
so, let's begin:
take the workpiece; if not, we do it ourselves
Decoupage boards. Working with a printed picture - MK from the master Cozetta
Working with decoupage is very interesting, exciting, exciting and amazing! This type of creativity requires great care and tremendous patience! But everything will pay off a hundredfold when the work is finished! You forget about small mistakes and disappointments and proudly decorate your home with a new craft!
Stage 1. Working with a printed picture on a color printer.
We cover the reverse side of the picture with tape. To ensure that the tape adheres evenly, use a plastic card.
Stage 2. We treat the colored side with varnish.
First attach the image by the corners with tape to the board. The varnish must be applied with a soft brush in 5-6 layers. Approximate drying time for one layer is 15-20 minutes!
Stage 3. Separate the picture from the tape.
After the varnish has completely dried, carefully use a pin to pry up the corner of the picture and then slowly pull the bent edge with your fingers towards the center. It turns out thin, like a napkin, a sheet with a picture and White list with tape.
Stage 4. Let's work on the board. Sand the surface of the board with sandpaper to provide a smooth and even surface for further work.
Stage 5. We prime the board.
I needed 2 coats to cover all the gaps in the board. Each layer must be dried!
in the photo: one coat of primer.
Stage 6. We paint one side of the board and its sides with gold acrylic paint. 2-3 layers depending on the density of the paint. Approximate drying time for one layer is 20-30 minutes. ( reverse side I painted the boards with white acrylic paint).
Stage 7. We glue the prepared picture onto the white side with glue.
Apply glue to the surface of the board equal to the area of the picture. Let's add a picture.
Using a roller we smooth the surface, but without fanaticism. We direct the roller from the center to the edges. Don't let the small bubbles fool you! When dry, the picture will smooth out on its own!
Stage 8. When the image is completely dry, remove excess paper using sandpaper.
9 stage. Apply craquelure varnish on the side free from the picture.
Apply varnish in one layer to one side of the board and to its sides. Drying time 30-40 minutes.
Stage 10. Application of white acrylic paint over varnish.
Carefully apply a layer of white acrylic paint in one pass with a soft brush. I moved the brush from top to bottom.
Stage 11. Do the same with the front side in areas free from the image. Keep in mind that the craquelure varnish should not get into the image!
Stage 12. We cover the product with several layers of varnish (dry each layer until completely dry as indicated on the package). And voila - finished work!
Don't forget to wipe the necks of the jars to prevent the lids from drying out!
P.S. Warm Hearts Work Miracles!
Shabby composition for March 8th. Decoupage peat pot. My work and master class
I greet you on the pages of my diary!
As usual, Varin has been my main motivator lately. kindergarten:) For myself, I can be lazy, but for various kindergarten competitions - they said “must”, which means “must” :) How can I refuse them? And now they are holding a competition “Flowers for Mom”, however, mothers make these flowers themselves :) The first thought was to make a flower topiary, but then I remembered that I had somehow bought peat pots, and I didn’t know about dry roses, where to put it in the house - they were bored, lying on the balcony. And so the idea of a quick composition arose:) The pot was decoupaged with a picture found in the house, worn, decorated with lace, a bouquet of dry roses was mercilessly trimmed - lo and behold, a place on the balcony was freed up:) And so the composition turned out in shabby chic style - from practically nothing and very quickly :) Maybe some of you will find this idea useful.
As for peat pots, I once published a selection of vintage decorations for those who haven’t seen them, look here - Vintage decor for peat pots. Ideas, master classes Working with a peat pot is a pleasure, it seems like it was intended for vintage decoration, you can see the processes below in the master class. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that from peat pots you can safely make not only composition pots, but also bases for topiary (it will definitely withstand gypsum filling:), trees, etc. By the way, they make absolutely wonderful Easter baskets. Well, we are moving on to a master class on shabby decoupage of a peat pot. Enjoy watching!
One day, about 20 years ago, designer Rachel Ashwell was dreaming up an interior for herself. She walked through flea markets, antique stores, bought antique beautiful furniture different styles. She put it in order, updated it appearance, used various techniques decor. So the old “junk” acquired a new, incomparable style. And then Rachel decided to give this style a name Shabby Chic.
Not everyone now correctly interprets the meaning of the term “shabby chic”. This is the style of furniture, decor, textiles. In general, the interior style. Currently, the same name is given to some handmade techniques, for example, in decoupage.
It is in this romantic style and decoupage technique we will do bottle for interior decoration. But first, let's find out what it is.
What is shabby chic? From English this phrase translates as “shabby chic, shine.”
Shabby chic is characterized by the use of soft pastel colors. These are boiling white, very rarely cream, light lilac, pale blue and baby pink, ivory, creamy, sea foam. All the colors are beautiful, but seem to have faded with time. Gilding is used in decorative items. Shabby chic is a style associated with romance and airiness. It is to the liking of all creative, dreamy and gentle natures.
Many people confuse Shabby Chic and Provence styles. What is their difference?
Shabby chic is luxury, elegance, and Provence is simplicity and a certain rustic roughness. In Provence there are many images of roses, but there are no angels like shabby chic. In turn, in shabby chic you cannot see bunches of dried herbs and cockerels, as in Provence style (imitation of a French village). Shabby chic allows for subtle stripes and checks.
Decoupage bottles and shabby chic style
To transform the bottle we will need:
- empty bottle beautiful shape with a smooth surface;
- snow-white construction paint and whitewash;
- zero skin;
- sponge and brushes;
- three-layer napkin with flowers;
- scissors with a thin blade;
- colored acrylic paints;
- decoupage varnish;
- water and container;
- small cloth napkin;
- PVA or decoupage glue;
- nylon mesh, bead, needle, thread;
- gold outline.
The first thing you need to do is wash the bottle with soap and wipe dry. Now we prepare construction white paint, whitewash and sponge. You can buy a sponge in a store or make it yourself from a pencil and washing sponge for dishes.
The main rule when applying layers is to dry each layer. Or, more precisely, they applied one layer and dried it, applied a second layer and dried it, etc.
Dip the sponge into construction paint and “splash” the bottle, applying 5 layers. Afterwards we make 2 layers of white.
When the next (last) layer has dried, sand it with sandpaper.
The surface of the bottle is prepared for drawing. Cut out fragments from a napkin. Separate the layer with the pattern.
Dilute PVA glue one to one with water if it is too thick. And three parts of glue with one water, if the PVA is of normal consistency. We try on a flower fragment, choose a place where it will be better located and look.
We will glue the motifs with a fan brush. It is very convenient because it covers a large surface of the napkin and does not tear it.
The image on the bottle can be made the same on both sides, or different.
To prevent the neck from appearing empty, we apply a design on it tilted to the side.
We cover the dried motifs with the thinnest layer of varnish. It is better to use a synthetic brush.
The glued flowers will look hand-drawn if we paint them. For these purposes, we select paint and paint directly on top of the flowers and leaves.
As you can see, the painted motifs acquired shine and there was a feeling that they were painted.
Now it's the background's turn. The most difficult thing in application is not to step into the floral motifs.
We recommend using a thin brush to make it easier to get into hard to reach places. But before we start, let's go over the varnish. This will give us protection that if we accidentally walk into the flowers, then there is an opportunity to quickly erase them. Thin layer In this case, the varnish plays the role of a layer.
The background color for the bottle was chosen to be delicate with beautiful name- sea foam. Mix white and green paint in such proportions to obtain the intended shade. If you overdo it with greens, you will have to dilute it again with white.
After thoroughly mixing the paint, cover the bottle.
This is a stage that requires a lot of patience. We coat the bottle with varnish in 10 layers. Don't forget the rule written above! Let's dry!
Using a golden outline we make a little chic around the rim of the bottom, neck and here and there we “poke” on the background. Squeeze a drop of contour onto your index finger and press it with quick touches.
We varnish the bottle again, but two layers are enough.
For decoration neck bottles we will make a flower from tulle. Cut two centimeter-wide strips approximately 40 cm long. Small rectangles for leaves.
In two containers we dilute red and green paint. We throw tulle at them and wait. Since tulle is a nylon fabric, it is reluctant to dye. But we will achieve our goal! After 30-40 minutes we take it out. Let's dry it.
We paint the edges of the thin strip with red acrylic paint.
We cut out leaves from light green rectangles and paint the edges with green. On top of each we draw veins. Waiting for it to dry.
We roll up a flower from a red stripe and secure it with thread. Sew on a trio of leaves. Sew a bead into the center.
We wrap a thin strip of delicate light green color around the neck of the bottle. Sew on the flower.
The work must be done carefully, but do not forget that shabby chic requires the effect of a certain negligence, precision and perfect order- alas, not his strong point.
Shabby chic is a feminine style of “Victorian romance”, which was born in the late 80s of the last century and became popular among young people. Bottle in technology decoupage, completed shabby chic style, will be great decorative element in the interior, adding a touch of nostalgia to it. Using the decoupage technique you can also make unusual vase or funny New Year's balls .
Especially for the site Handicraft Lessons Anna Dranovskaya.
