A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks in domestic conditions. In principle, it won’t be difficult to make a circular saw yourself even if you don’t have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. Required material You can usually find it in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner will do here, profile pipe rectangular section and engine. The assembled circular saw can be placed on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of one, you will have to build a table for circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use a unit from an old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.
Manual device from an angle grinder
If the farm has a grinder, then better adaptation Can't find one for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Don’t despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of metal corner of small cross-section, located on both sides saw blade. Using bolts and nuts, the angles are connected from the front and back sides by a transverse ligament, and technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.
It is necessary to put a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Next, you will have to make a couple of holes for bolts in the gearbox housing of the future circular saw, for which it is disassembled and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow for high-quality cuts, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.
The axial handle, which will be equipped with a grinder grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The shape of the design can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. ends metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are equipped with holes for fasteners. There's one here important point: the ends cannot be riveted to prevent the handle from bending during the operation of a circular saw assembled with your own hands. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet it a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. As usual, we adjust the uniformity of the gap with washers.
At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it is connected to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, a second one is screwed. Tightening and lowering nuts of this device for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the cutting depth is adjustable. This is how you can convert an angle grinder at home into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular saw from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.
Mini table saw
The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing the horizontal segment into two equal parts, which after installation are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame with a clamp. The hand-held circular saw table assembly can function as cutting machine, if you install a standard cutting disc on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and to process larger lumber you will need a more serious homemade circular saw, which will be discussed further.
Stationary machine
A circular saw, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, so before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything down to the smallest detail. In principle, a tabletop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or storage room, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary homemade circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and accessories for a circular saw of this type.
As can be seen from the figure, homemade circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings like the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before making a circular table, as well as mounting a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each part of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.
Circular table
A table for a hand-held circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes converted from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from beams or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering a table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating the base is at risk of abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of the cut will be uneven. It is better to make cross braces that strengthen the sawing table from a steel angle 60 - 80 mm with a horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side stop. The homemade table on which the circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a stationary position.
Saw blade
The toothed disk should rise above the surface of the table of the circular saw by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut the tree properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, the same parameter of the cutter should not exceed 350 mm, however, a motor with a power of 1 kW will also be required. For workpieces with a diameter of over 150 mm, a mini circular saw made by hand is unlikely to be suitable. Some factory circular saws are equipped with a riving knife, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closure of parts of the sawn workpiece, so it can also be very useful in the case when a homemade circular saw is assembled.
Adjustable side support
It is possible to install a high-quality stop from a steel angle with a cross-section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm greater than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on homemade table circulars in a given position using bolts. Adjustment of this element carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.
Shaft
The shaft installed on the circular saw is the most critical component, so its turning and testing together with the disk should be carried out exclusively by a specialist using special equipment. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is immediately excluded, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The optimal solution will be purchasing a ready-made shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings that have a curved shape inner surface, otherwise the assembly made by yourself will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a homemade circular will become unusable.
Broadcast
In our case ideal option will V-belt drive, but it is better to abandon the rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail suddenly gets caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will cause the disc to fracture, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually selected based on engine speed, always taking into account the permissible number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw wheel, the higher its rotation speed can be, and the cleaner the converted unit will cut.
Motor
Among homemade devices The most popular is a circular machine assembled from an engine from washing machine.This choice is explained by the fact that the scheme of its operation the best way suitable for such purposes. Unlike the commutator units that are usually supplied with power tools, the motor from a washing machine operates at lower speeds, which means that it shows more long work, has increased efficiency and is not so susceptible to various types of blockages. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and running capacitor, so it is more economical to make do with a device from washing machine. That, in general, is all the wisdom.
For greater convenience, the hand-held circular saw can be mounted on a table. This design will help you process and saw wooden parts quickly and without problems.
Working with a circular saw mounted on a special table greatly simplifies the cutting process and is safe when using special tools.
In this article we will tell you how to make a hand-held circular saw with your own hands.
Circular saw table design
The table base for a circular saw can be wooden or metal.
The table top is made of metal or sheet wood materials. A hole is made in it for a circular saw blade.
Supports ride along guides in the tabletop, which move timber and any other sawing material.
First of all, the table should be comfortable, stable (not wobble!), the surface of the tabletop should be flat. These factors will help a person avoid injury during work.
The hole in the base is cut for a specific brand of saw
Before you start cutting the material and assembling the circular table, you need to calculate its dimensions and make a drawing.
The hole in the base must correspond to the dimensions of the circular saw platform. For each brand of saw this will be a specific size.
The slab installed on the tabletop should not overhang the table to one side - the base must be resistant to external mechanical loads.
The dimensions of the tabletop must correspond to the flow.
For some, a folding table is enough, small table with removable circular saw. People who have a spacious workshop need a full-fledged table for a circular saw or even a circular saw.
Note: if you plan to leave materials on the table while working, then the area of the tabletop should be at least square meter. Optimal size for such a table 120 x 120 cm.
Materials from which you can make a table for cutting wood:
- solid wood;
- Chipboard, chipboard, MDF, plywood;
- metal (steel or aluminum).
Plastic is not suitable as a material for making a saw table.
Before final assembly All wooden parts of the table should be protected from moisture and rotting.
To make a saw table with your own hands, we will need the following materials:
- Laminated chipboard or plywood 21 mm thick;
- timber for the table frame (can be used edged board 50 x 150 mm, 3 meters long – 5 pcs.);
- wooden dowels 10 mm – 12 pcs.;
- wood glue;
- metal fastenings for drawers and legs – 4 pcs.;
- metal corners- 10 pieces.;
- self-tapping screws
Tools required for work:
- pencil, marker, tape measure, meter;
- jigsaw;
- manual ;
- Sander;
- medium and fine grit sandpaper;
- plane;
- drill;
- screwdriver
Step 1. First, use a plane to trim all sides of the beam. We assemble the table frame from the timber: in each side of the tabletop we drill two 5 mm holes for dowels for each drawer and one hole for each table leg.
Step 2. You need to make two holes (5 mm) in the drawers, and one (5 mm) in the legs.
Step 3. We install the dowels into the tabletop, having previously lubricated them with wood glue. Tsars and legs are installed on top.
If you have clamps with ties, you can secure the table with them. After the glue has completely dried, the drawers are fastened to the legs and to each other with special metal fastenings for tables and are tightened with self-tapping screws.
Note: the table will be stronger and more stable if you use metal corners for additional fastening of the tabletop: two on the short side and three on the long side.
Step 4. Now you need to secure the circular saw to inside countertops. There can be two options: fasten the saw platform with M4 bolts or fasten the platform using bars with self-tapping screws. The first option is faster and more reliable. The second option does not require drilling holes in the metal pad for bolts.
Step 5. You can secure the saw with bolts or bars with self-tapping screws. We will fasten with blocks, so we make a cut in small blocks the width of the saw platform. Using blocks with self-tapping screws on both sides, we fasten the circular saw to the tabletop.
Step 6. When the saw is installed, take another larger block and screw it to the tabletop with self-tapping screws (directly to the previously marked points along which the saw platform was aligned exactly). This block is necessary so that later, when removing the saw from the table, you can quickly return it to its place without resorting to markings.
Step 7 Place the circular saw blade in place and saw through the tabletop to create a longitudinal hole. Turn the tabletop over.
Step 8 We make a parallel stop. To do this, we saw off two strips of plywood with a length equal to the width of the table and a width of about 8–10 cm. We round the corners using a protractor and a pencil.
Step 9 We sand both strips and fasten them using self-tapping screws at an angle. We screw a metal corner inside.
Step 10 At permanent job with a table for a circular saw and the need to secure the stop on the table top, a guide is fixed perpendicular to the disk. The roller or the second part of the guide is attached to the bottom of the fence so that the fence can move up / away from the circular saw blade.
Workplace safety
In order to avoid injury during work, it is necessary to carefully monitor the position of the saw table, its stability, and strength.
Before each use of the circular saw, check that it is securely in place.
Holding the cut material with your hands is strictly prohibited! This can lead to injury to your fingers or the wood to bounce into your face when hit by knots or uneven surfaces.
Also, to avoid eye injury, be sure to wear safety glasses while working.
Don't neglect these simple rules, take care of your own health.
For more information on how to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands, see the following video:
It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is precisely longitudinal sawing blanks How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
The machine consists of three main structural elements:
- base;
- sawing table;
- parallel stop.
The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.
So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly from rip fence The quality of the cut depends on the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.
In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.
Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of its attachment to circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.
| Rip fence design | Advantages and disadvantages |
| Two-point mounting (front and rear) | Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback. |
| Single point mounting (front) | Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure. |
| Fastening in the groove of a circular table | Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-made, especially made of wood (made only of metal). |
In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.
Preparing for work
Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.
The following tools will be used for work:
- Circular saw or you can use.
- Screwdriver.
- Grinder (Angle grinder).
- Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.
During the work you will also need the following materials:
- Plywood.
- Solid pine.
- Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Wood glue.
Design of a circular saw stop
The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.
The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.
From a different angle.
The general composition of all parts is as follows:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Longitudinal part
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part;
- Clamp
- Eccentric handle
Making a circular saw
Preparation of blanks
A couple of points to note:
- planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.
We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.
It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.
The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.
As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.
We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.
Transverse part of the guide
Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.
Upper transverse clamping bar
Both clamping bars– the upper and lower ones have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.
The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.
Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.
With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.
Assembling the entire transverse part
Longitudinal part of the guide
The entire longitudinal part consists of:
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part.
This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.
At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.
The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.
The base of the longitudinal part
We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.
Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.
Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.
Installation of the eccentric
Installing the guide
It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.
... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.
Video
Video on which this material was made.
A circular saw is the basis of any woodworking industry. This applies to both industrial workshops and small home sawmills.
Thanks to the massive frame, on such equipment you can unravel as small boards or plywood, or massive logs or beams.
1 Unit design
Depending on the models and manufacturers (tabletop Ryobi and others), circular saws working on wood may have different additional equipment for ease and convenience of work. But, both household and industrial sawing units have standard basic equipment. This includes a table with a slot for the saw to exit, the saw itself, a riving knife, protective cover, guides, motor and drive. Let's consider the task of each component separately.
1.1 Bed
The bed is the main part of any machine. It is on it that all other elements of the unit are attached. The bed must be as strong, stable as possible and prevent vibrations, since they can significantly complicate the work process or even make it impossible. Therefore, Ryobi beds are typically made from cast iron or durable steel.
The beds can be:
- cast. Cast frames are used in industrial workshops. They are heavy and are installed on a flat floor made of reinforced high-strength concrete;
- welded Household sawing machines and mini saws are equipped with a welded frame. This table weighs much less and allows you to move the unit if necessary.
You can make a frame on which the Ryobi desktop mini machine will be mounted from any material, including reliable wooden beams. But such a table must be fastened with a sufficient number of stiffeners to achieve maximum strength.
1.2 Work surface
The working surface is a smooth table on which the material to be cut is placed. As a rule, the upper part of the work surface is made of cast iron, aluminum or smooth steel. There are guides and rulers on it for measurements and ease of installation of the material being cut.
Also, part of the working surface, in the place where the saw protrudes, should be removable, which greatly facilitates the process of replacing the saw wheel. The slot through which the saw protrudes must correspond to the thickness cutting tool. If the slot is larger, excess space will be clogged with chains and other waste, which will make sawing work impossible.
In this case, the insert can be made independently from hard wood or plastic. It is better to cut the gap using a working saw. Then it will completely fit her size.
1.3 Saw blade
Ryobi saw blades are produced in diameters from 140 to 300 mm. The larger the saw, the greater the thickness of the wood processed. When installing a disk, you need to take into account that work surface it can protrude no more than 1/3 of its diameter.
Mini machines rarely have additional functions, but a professional woodworking machine usually has mechanisms to tilt the saw. This allows you to make angled cuts up to 45 degrees.
Before you start setting the angle, you need to study the instructions for the specific unit. The countertop protector may need to be removed or replaced.
1.4 Protective cover
A homemade circular machine is rarely equipped with protection mechanisms operator. Therefore, the sawing unit often causes injuries.
Professional machines, especially modern production, such as Ryobi, have a protective guard that is mounted directly above the saw and protects the operator’s hands from contact with the saw blade. Besides, The protective casing performs the function of pressing the material. If the saw hits a knot or other difficult-to-pass area, the guard will prevent the beam from jumping.
1.5 Riving knife
A riving knife significantly extends the life of both the saw and the unit itself. In addition, it greatly simplifies the entire woodworking process.
When working with improperly dried wood, knotty areas of the material, etc. The saw may jam. A riving knife is installed to prevent such difficulties in operation. Technical specifications the settings are as follows:
- the knife is installed behind the saw blade, relative to its working stroke;
- the distance between the bottom of the knife and the teeth is 3 mm;
- the distance from the tip of the wedging machine to the teeth is 7-9 mm;
1.6 Longitudinal stop
When sawing long boards or beams lengthwise, it is very difficult to maintain a straight line without a guide. Therefore, a stop for longitudinal sawing is attached to the working surface.
The width of the cutting board is adjusted using the distance from the stop to the saw.
The stop must not move or sag. Therefore, it must be made of dense material and secured in at least two places.
1.7 Drive
To the drive, in in this case, refers to the motor and the shaft on which the saw is mounted.
The circular machine must withstand a continuous woodworking process for 8-10 hours. And the speed should not be low (4500-6000 rpm) so that the cut is even and smooth. A two-phase or three-phase motor with a power of 1200-1500 W is suitable for this.
The shaft on which the saw will be mounted must have a diameter corresponding to the internal diameter of the circle and allow it to be firmly and securely fastened. The slightest play in the saw will lead to damage to the material being processed and the saw blade itself.
2 Circular jointer
To simplify woodworking, the circular machine can be equipped with a jointer.
You should not think that the circular jointer performs sawing and grinding at the same time. Their convenience is that both equipment is located on the same bed, the same working surface and operates from the same engine.
2.1 Types of units
Based on the scope of application and design features, we divide sawing machines into three subtypes:
- Desktop. Tabletop machine used in domestic conditions. It does not require a permanent stationary frame of great weight and dimensions. The mini unit weighs no more than 25 kg, so it can be installed on any workbench or similar stand. After finishing work, it can easily be put away in the garage or storage room. The Ryobi mini table saw allows you to make cuts with a maximum depth of 75 mm.
- With stand. These are also small units used in household sphere. They are equipped with folding legs and a folding surface for sawing long materials. Convenient for transportation. The maximum cutting depth is 85 mm.
- Stationary. Such units have a lot of weight and considerable dimensions. They are used in the professional field at medium and large woodworking enterprises. Allows you to cut boards and timber up to 125 mm thick.
2.2 What do you need to know about circular saws?
Regardless of whether you decide to purchase a Ryobi-type unit or make it yourself, you need to know some of the features and nuances of this equipment.
- The difference between professional and household units lies not only in weight and dimensions, but also in the capabilities and safety of the equipment. Professional machines, unlike household ones, always equipped with additional casings and protection mechanisms, various devices. They definitely have an outlet for a chip suction.
- The higher the engine power, the higher the performance of the unit. Three-phase motors are more efficient than two-phase motors.
- The diameter of the saw indicates maximum depth cut; The possible size of the material being processed depends on the depth of the cut.
- With engines of the same power, the rotation speed of the disk is inversely proportional to its diameter.
- The faster the saw rotates, the smoother and cleaner the cut is.
2.3 DIY circular saw
You can make a manual circular machine with your own hands from an ordinary angle grinder, or “grinder”.
In this case, you won’t have to invent much. We buy circular saw for the “grinder”, we install a manual circular saw, one might say, it’s ready. However, we note that it is practically impossible to make an even cut while holding the “grinder” in your hands.
Therefore, you will have to make a small bed or workbench, make a working surface (a sheet of steel or just a chipboard board is suitable for this) and fix the grinder from below so that the saw comes out to the surface through the working slot. Such manual machine will allow you to cut plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or boards up to 4 mm thick.
2.4 Demonstration of the Bosch GTS 10 XC circular saw (video)
A wood sawing machine allows you to cut workpieces across, along and at a given angle. They become useful both for entire industries and small home workshops.
In addition to working with wood, sawing machines allow you to process:
- Plastic;
- Stone;
- Soft metal.
It will be interesting for many to know that the very first in the world sawing machine created not by anyone, but by Leonardo da Vinci himself. Since then, the designs have changed and improved significantly. But the principle remains the same.
Units from Makita and other companies are usually classified according to the type of operating, that is, cutting tool. Therefore the machine happens:
- Disk;
- Shtripsov;
- With flexible cutter.
The machine saw itself can be placed in a vertical or horizontal position, which is why it is distinguished:
- Vertical sawing;
- Horizontal sawing.
Household models of machines and devices for woodworking industries are most often flexible or disk. Strip ones are rarely used.
Strip
- The main element of the stripping unit is the stripping saw;
- All such machines require installation of the cutter on a frame or a designated special structure;
- The saw can move straight or curved, depending on the model;
- Curvilinear machines are suitable for DIY work with durable materials;
- The most popular strip saws are in the field of stone processing and cutting.
Disk
This is a large bed equipped with a flat working surface. The saw wheel is located on this surface. When working on a wall, wood blanks are fed along the bed to the cutter.
The main advantages of disc models are the absence of chips, a guarantee of an even and most accurate cut.
At the same time, everything disk machines divided into three varieties.
- Household machines. These are predominantly desktop devices that allow for a small amount of work. The weight of the structure is up to 25 kilograms. The devices are compact, perfect for a home workshop where you will work with your own hands. The maximum cut for longitudinal cutting is 8 cm.
- With extendable table top. Such equipment is suitable for those who process chipboard or MDF in order to obtain workpieces of a certain curvature. Designed for small production facilities, they can cut material no more than 9 centimeters thick.
- Stationary. These are powerful sawing units designed for a large workshop. They are capable of sawing material up to 14 centimeters thick. This can be a format-cutting tool if the machine is equipped with a carriage.
The most common homemade machines are disc machines. Although homemade units have their drawbacks.
Advantages and disadvantages
TO positive aspects disk unit include:
- High performance indicators;
- Good power;
- Precision cutting of workpieces;
- Reliable design;
- Impressive wood feed speed. It can reach 220 meters per minute.
But they also have disadvantages.
- The output is a smaller volume of product than with tape ones.
- Are formed large quantities wood waste.
- The cutting element is expensive, which increases the cost of operation.
Flexible
The movement of the working tool is carried out using a pulley.
Units equipped with a flexible saw are distinguished by the shape of the saw itself:
- Tape;
- Ropeway;
- Chain.
If you need wood processing, then you should choose strip models. Rope and chain machines are more suitable for do-it-yourself stone processing - granite, marble, rocks.
Since we are interested in woodworking machines, let’s take a closer look tape devices with a flexible saw.
Band machines
The mechanism of the band sawing unit allows you to carry out three types of cutting yourself:
- Transverse;
- Curvilinear;
- Longitudinal.
Do-it-yourself woodworkers celebrate quiet work band press. This is useful for those who have organized a workshop at home, rather than in a workshop. This way, sawing the tree will not cause discomfort to you or your neighbors.
Band machines are divided into two types.
- Tabletop models. Used for DIY work in workshops, designed for low productivity. They are lightweight and compact in size. They must be installed on any stand - a workbench, table, etc. Some manufacturers, such as Makita, offer a stand included.
- Floor units. The support for such machines has a one-piece construction. The equipment is characterized by increased productivity and power. The units are intended for industrial use.
Advantages and disadvantages
Tape machines provide several objective advantages when choosing this unit:
- Consume a small amount of electricity;
- Large volume of output products;
- Impressive cutting height reaching 36 cm;
- Safe operation of the unit;
- Low noise level;
- Small amount of wood waste.
But the unit has disadvantages.
- Low performance indicators.
- The material supply speed does not exceed 120 meters of wood per minute.
- Can't cope with coniferous species. Due to the adhering resin, cutting accuracy deteriorates.
Homemade or factory
Many craftsmen create homemade machine, equipping their own workshops with it. But is he capable homemade unit replace the factory one?
- A homemade machine has a minimum of functions, the simplest design. For rare home use this is enough, but for large volumes of work homemade apparatus will let you down.
- A homemade machine does not have the necessary levels of protection. Therefore, working with it is potentially dangerous.
- Factory equipment has a guarantee and quality certificates. Self-made cannot offer anything like that.
- The only place where it wins homemade version- this is the price. A factory one will cost at least 8 thousand rubles.
Making a homemade one or buying a factory unit is your personal decision.
Manufacturers
Among the most popular manufacturers of woodworking machines, which allow you to work with your own hands in home workshops or equip entire workshops, we should highlight:
- Makita;
- Bosch;
- Hitachi;
- Metabo.
- Bosch is the market leader with a huge range of products. Bosch provides quality, reliability, high performance even for the most simple models for lovers. But the prices are high, although you don’t mind paying for such quality.
- Makita. The Makita company assembles machine tools in China. This makes Makita equipment not inferior in quality to Bosch, despite stereotypes. Makita offers machines in the mid-price category. With excellent quality, you won't have to pay a fortune for the machine. The problem with Makita machines is the large number of fakes that have appeared recently. Therefore, when purchasing equipment, make sure that it is a genuine machine from Makita.
- Hitachi. Chinese-assembled machines for amateurs. They are not suitable for professionals, but they are perfect solution for a small workshop.
- Metabo. One of the leaders in the production of professional machines. They cost 20-30 percent less than Bosch, but correspond to their level.
It’s up to you to choose a proven Makita machine, or assemble a homemade unit. Follow safety regulations when working on equipment.
