In this review, we will figure out how to properly nail the lining, since this is the simplest option that anyone can do. The process will be divided into 3 stages so that you can understand it as best as possible. You don't need years of experience to finish walls or ceilings, the main thing is to follow all the recommendations.
How to install
- Preparatory work.
- Frame construction.
- Fastening the lining to the wall or ceiling.
Remember that it is important not only to adhere to technology, but also to use quality materials and tool.
Stage 1 - preparation
To begin with, you should stock up on everything you need, the list is shown in the table.
| Material | Recommendations for selection |
| Lining | Use material with a humidity of no more than 14%, otherwise after fastening you risk finding deformed elements |
| Bar | A frame will be created from it, most often the version with a section of 30x30 or 40x20 mm is used. The material must also be dry |
| Nails | Let's figure out what nails to nail the lining with. For work, the finishing version with a reduced head will be used; the length must be at least 30 mm, if finishing material thick, then all 40 mm. Galvanized nails are excellent, they resist corrosion well, and the price is lower than other options |
Finishing nails – The best decision when attaching the lining The technology for nailing lining with your own hands requires the presence of a certain set of tools:
- A regular hammer will be used for fastening. Must be used small options weighing from 300 to 500 grams;
- To avoid damaging the lining with a hammer, you must use special device- doboynik. With it you can hammer nails without hitting the wood;
Advice! If you don’t have a hammer at hand, you can make one from a nail; you just need to cut off its tip.
- The material is cut using a hacksaw with a small tooth size;
- The frame can be attached in two ways. For concrete and brick walls A hammer drill and dowels are required. For wooden surfaces - self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.
Stage 2 - frame construction
Before nailing the lining, it is necessary to build a solid foundation:
- First, you need to check the base with a level to find out how crooked your walls are. Next, the lines for the location of the bars are marked. Remember a simple rule - if the lining is mounted vertically, then the frame is positioned horizontally and vice versa;
- A block is attached along the lines; if the walls are smooth, then you can fix it directly to the wall, and if there are unevenness, then it is better to fix the hangers every 50 cm. Then the hangers are bent, the block is placed, leveled and fixed in the desired position. See also article.
Stage 3 – attaching the trim
We have come to the main stage and will look at how to properly nail the lining. The instructions consist of the following steps:
- First, let's figure out how to nail the lining vertically. The first element is placed with a tenon in the corner and secured with nails through the groove; they are located at an angle of 45 degrees so as not to interfere with the joining of the next element.
- The work continues simply: the tenon of the next element is inserted into the groove of the previous one, after which the element can be tapped more tightly through a wooden block and secured.
- Now let's look at how to nail the lining in a horizontal position. The most important thing here is correct location, the groove should always look down and the tenon up, then moisture will not accumulate in the recesses. The work is done from top to bottom, as you need to hammer into the groove.
- If we nail the lining over the top, the work will be slightly different. Nails are hammered into the panels in advance so that they do not stick out. reverse side. After this, the element is put in place, tapped through a piece of lining, and only after that the nails are hammered through a hammer flush with the finishing surface.
Advice! You can hammer the nails so that they are deeply recessed into the surface, and cover the attachment point with wooden pins.
I hope you have figured out how to nail the lining and how to do it correctly. To make it even clearer, below is a diagram that shows correct position nail, when it holds securely and does not interfere with the joining of the next element.
For decorative finishing or leveling the ceiling surface in residential and non-residential premises modern cladding material is ideal - lining made of wood, plastic or MDF boards. The installation of the panels itself is not particularly difficult, but if you plan to do the work yourself, you need to know about all its intricacies. How and how to nail the lining to a pre-prepared slatted sheathing, which can be made from wooden beam or metal profile?
Installation of lining to wooden sheathing
Installation of PVC panels to a metal profile
Fastening principle decorative panels from various materials identical and performed in a certain sequence. But the main difference lies in the choice of fasteners, which are selected for a specific type of lining. Nails, self-tapping screws, and clamps (special staples) are mainly used. Ways to fasten the lining
When starting work, you need to know how to properly nail the lining to frame structure using a specific device:
- Nailing the lining with nails will require dexterity and skill. A neat appearance can only be achieved if the caps of the fasteners are invisible. To hide them in the grooves you will need a hammer, with the help of which the nails are evenly sunk into the sheathing board. Can also be drilled thin drill holes for the foot of the nail to prevent splitting of the wood.
Fastening the lining with nails
- For fastening plastic sheathing self-tapping screws are suitable. Fastening element is inserted into the top of the board, and the cap remains flush with the tenon.
Fastening with clamps
- Clamps are used when installing lining different types and thickness, so it is very important to choose the right fasteners according to the height of the “tongue”. The device is put on the groove of the board and screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or nailed, as a result of which the facing board is not damaged, and the fastener itself remains invisible. For plastic or MDF lining, clamps with a height of 1/1.5/2 mm are suitable, for eurolining - 3 and 4 mm, for wooden panels - 5 mm and blockhouse - 6-8 mm. These are reliable and durable fasteners, since they are made from steel with a galvanized anti-corrosion coating. This method is the most practical because it is possible to dismantle and replace unsuitable panels.
Heavy lining is attached open method. It is better to choose nails with a small head, as they are driven into the board with outside. But in this case, aesthetic indicators will suffer decorative covering. The design of the lining allows for fastening to the sheathing “sunk” - with a nail through the groove. The most convenient option is panels with an offset profile, where the lower lip of the groove is longer than the upper one.
The process of covering the ceiling with clapboard
When will it be prepared working surface and the frame is installed in the form of a wooden or metal sheathing (from a profile), we can talk about how to nail the lining. The process takes place in the following sequence:
- The first board is installed so that the side with the tenon is directed towards the wall (corner). The location of the lining must be strictly perpendicular to the sheathing. For this, a building level must be used.
- After the first board is fastened using self-tapping screws, you can begin installing the second lining. The joining of two panels is carried out according to the “tongue and groove” principle. After leveling, the lining is fixed in the same way as the first.
This sequence is followed until the entire ceiling surface is covered with clapboard. At the final stage, the finished coating is decorated with a plinth around the entire perimeter, which hides the cracks and edges of the cut lining.
Methods for installing lining
Fastening the lining to the ceiling and walls is done in three main ways:
- Vertical installation. Covering the frame with clapboard is done from the wall. The board is attached to each lath of the sheathing using staples, self-tapping screws (screws) or finishing nails with a small head, located at a certain angle of inclination. If the ridge of the board is not thick enough, then it is better to pre-drill the holes to avoid cracking. All fasteners are hidden by the next panel.
- The horizontal method involves fastening the lining with the ridge upward; in this position, condensation will not form inside the structure. When installed from top to bottom, there are no visible gaps between the strips of cladding boards. The first panel is mounted near the ceiling, after which the second is inserted into the groove from below and secured with nails or self-tapping screws. The final strip is cut to width and secured in the groove of the previous one (a primitive nail puller is used for this). The lower part is covered with a plinth.
- Diagonal installation. The first board is located from the corner and then moves along the perimeter of the ceiling. The ends of the lining are cut at an angle according to the selected sketch. Most convenient option fasteners - clamps that sit on the screws.
Methods for fastening lining
When the surfaces of the ceiling and walls are completely covered with clapboard, for sealing external and internal corners decorative elements must be used. Special corners are nailed. Look original combined options the location of the lining, which allows you to give the interior individuality.
How to nail the lining correctly? The quality of finishing of the room depends on the solution to this issue. A wide variety of clapboard covering technologies allows you to choose suitable method finishing any surface with it. The article will tell you how to nail all types of lining correctly.
What methods of fastening the lining exist?
Easy to install and large quantity positive properties contribute to the widespread use of this material, despite the constant emergence of new types and methods of covering the surface of the house.
One of the most acceptable properties of wooden panels is the ability to finish a room or the facade of a house with your own hands (see), even for a novice craftsman, after studying the nuances of the work. The main condition before nailing the lining with your own hands is patience and purchasing quality materials.
There are several options for attaching the material.
These include:
- Most simple method fixing the lamellas is the use of small nails and clamps or staples. But fastening with clamps can only be carried out on thin panels whose mass is small. Otherwise, the grips may not hold up. With this method:
- the lamella is inserted into the groove located on the previous panel;
- A clamp is fixed inside the groove (see) with its help the board is screwed to the sheathing element with self-tapping screws or ordinary screws.
Tip: Attach one panel to another tightly enough so that there are no gaps and all elements are adjusted to the same size. Last panel it is necessary to fit it into the free space, while it is cut to the required width and fastened.
- Fastening with screws. This method is used when other methods cannot be used. This is usually how the material is fixed in baths and saunas. A special feature of the method is the need to drill a hole in the board for each screw. In this case, the diameter of the hole is two times smaller than the axis of the screw. When installing panels:
- the screws are screwed in with a screwdriver, recessing each element as much as possible into the wood;
- the holes are plugged with a wooden pin, which will securely fix the panel and cover the screw head so that it is not visible.
Tip: Due to changes in temperature and moisture, the attachment points will begin to dry out and become more noticeable. To prevent the occurrence of such defects, the lining should be treated with special protective compounds.
- Using only finishing nails for lining. This is a simple method that does not require any other additional accessories and fixing elements. But in this case, the panels can often be damaged. The nails are nailed in increments of approximately 30 centimeters, which means that up to 8 nails will be needed for one two-meter-long board, which will amount to a fairly large number of elements for the total area. Instructions for driving them include:
- the nail is carefully pressed into the in the right place, its angle to the panel plane should be 45 degrees;
- the head of the element is recessed into the tree with the help of a blunt hammer, as deep as possible. This will avoid damage to the outer surface of the skin and allow the next lining panel to fit smoothly into the groove of the tongue.
Tip: This method cannot be used for the thinnest lining; hammering a nail may cause the material to split.
- Fastening the slats with screws. This method is used to fix old-style wooden panels that differ slightly from eurolining. Wherein:
- holes are drilled in the panels;
- the head is countersunk and chamfered, which allows it to be hidden;
- use a screwdriver to tighten the fastener until it stops;
- the groove is closed by the subsequent panel.
- The easiest way is to use construction staples, which a clapboard stapler helps to install in place. In this case, the staples are inserted into the groove, like nails, at an angle of 45 degrees. The force that the stapler creates allows the staple to be driven in sufficiently tightly and deeply, after which the second panel of material can easily be placed in its place. Then the next board is placed and the process is repeated.
How to nail the lining and what method of fastening and installation to use is decided by the repairman. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances and features of any of them, the conditions and factors in which the panels will be located after installation.
How to prepare a frame for mounting material
The video in this article will show you how to nail the lining and how best to position it on the surface.
The direction of the panels can be:
- Vertical. In this case, the boards are placed in the direction from floor to ceiling, the room visually becomes narrower and higher.
- Horizontal. The slats are placed from one wall to another, the room looks wider, but lower.
- At an angle or diagonally. This is a more complex method of laying material, and also with increased consumption.
- Combined. A combination of the first three methods in any variant.
When perfectly level wooden surface the lining can be nailed directly to the wall, which is very rare. In other cases, the lathing is made from planed pine slats with a cross-section of 20x40 millimeters (see), with a pitch of elements up to 50 centimeters.
Tip: Before installation, everything wooden parts should be treated with an antiseptic.
- The first rail is installed vertically in the corner of the room, its position is controlled by a plumb line. To install screws, plastic dowels and wooden spacers are used.
- Similarly, another rail is mounted in the opposite corner.
- At the top and bottom of the wall, two cords are stretched between the bars to facilitate installation of the panel at the top and bottom.
- Horizontal elements are fixed: one under the ceiling, and the other closer to the floor, their position is controlled by a cord.
- In increments of 50 centimeters, the remaining slats are installed horizontally.
Advice. To check the correct installation of parts, a cord or rule, which is a flat wooden block, is used, stretched between the outer slats, resting it on horizontal panels located at the top and bottom of the structure.
When the lining is placed horizontally, the slats for the sheathing are installed vertically. For diagonal laying- to the lining at a right angle.
Mounting options
How to nail vertical panels
The installation procedure is as follows:
- Using a jigsaw or file with small tooth a lining panel of the required length is cut, which is taken approximately one centimeter less than the height of the room.
- The first strip is placed with the comb towards the corner.
- To fix it, finishing nails for lining are used; their feature is a small diameter and a small head.
In the future, you can do different things:
- The lining is nailed with finishing nails in the center of the panel to each batten of the sheathing, and then the heads of the nails, recessed in the wood, are puttied, although it is not necessary to putty.
- Instead of nails, screws with a diameter of approximately 3 millimeters are used.
- The lining strips are fixed with nails or screws not in the center, but along the crest. In this case, the hole for the fastener must be carefully drilled. This is due to the small thickness of the ridge, which can cause cracking of the material. The photo shows how to nail the lining into the ridge.
- Nails are hammered or screws are screwed into the grooves of the lining. In this case, the fastener is hidden by the crest of the next strip.
Tip: Drive the nails at an angle, not all the way to the end to prevent damage to the face. To finish nails, you must use a punch or core with a specially blunted end.
- To fasten the lining, use clamps or metal brackets, which are fixed on the bottom flange of the groove and nailed to the sheathing. The ridge of the next strip is inserted into the groove of the first part and tapped until it stops.
Advice: To protect the groove from damage, the lining should be finished using a piece with a cut groove, which is inserted with a comb into the groove of the panel, and blows are applied to it with a hammer.
- The remaining strips are attached in the same way, with periodic monitoring of the verticality of their location using a plumb line, and if necessary, adjustments are made to the installation of the elements.
- The last strip is cut to the required width and fixed to the sheathing along the edge.
- For next wall on the first strip the ridge is cut off. This panel will cover the nail heads located on the last piece of paneling on the previous wall.
- Further installation is carried out in the same way as on the first wall.
How to properly attach strips horizontally
When installing the panels from bottom to top, you can clearly see how and with what nails it is better to nail the lining almost to the top of the wall surface. But having reached the ceiling, the strip needs to be cut to width, which may not look very nice.
In addition, with this method, the gaps between the strips will be visible, which is especially bad when finishing a sauna or bathhouse due to moisture getting into them, which will lead to the material quickly losing its beautiful appearance.
When installing panels from top to bottom:
- The first strip is fixed under the ceiling.
- The next one is installed with a comb into the groove of the first one from the bottom.
- It is nailed, and thus all the elements are attached.
- The last part is cut to width and carefully inserted into the groove on the previous strip. In this case it is convenient to use simple lever, which can be a nail puller or a pry bar.
- The gap formed near the floor is covered with a plinth.
How to nail lining diagonally
This method is more often used on ceilings, and less often on walls. The technology for installing lining diagonally is different.
In this case:
- Start installing the panel from the corner.
- On each strip, the ends are cut at the required angle according to the template.
- When covering the ceiling with clapboard, it is more convenient to fasten it with clamps on screws, using a screwdriver or a screwdriver with a battery.
After installing the lining panels on the walls and ceiling, it is necessary to decorate the existing corners, which can be:
- Vertical.
- Horizontal.
- Internal. They are closed with a special jute rope or shaped corner strip.
- External, decorated wooden corners, nailed with finishing nails.
The correct choice of the method of fastening the lining panels will ensure a high-quality finishing of the house.
Lining is excellent universal material for final finishing ceiling surfaces, internal and external walls. This cladding is also perfect for finishing door leaves in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern each time.
What particularly impresses is the ease of working with this material. You can easily handle clapboard cladding on your own.
But first you should always use teaching aid. This could be an instruction for installing the lining with your own hands.
Using instructions
Detailed instructions are one of the most best helpers in the process of learning any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is beneficial, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Sheathing wood panels belongs precisely to this category.
For greater understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. IN in this case A photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as additional visual material. And of course, one cannot help but ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.
It is important to take advantage of everyone educational materials study all the details, master the technology. Then, already confident that no problems will arise, you can calmly begin work.
Stages of cladding
Step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists of performing the following steps:
Execute preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. Impregnate special compounds, such as antiseptic and fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use stain or paint of the required color.
After the paint composition has dried, a lathing made of wooden slats or a beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The fastening spacing of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation slab. To fasten the slats, screws or self-tapping screws are used.
The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the casing depends on this.
The installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial procedure for attaching the frame.
Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Horizontal installation Do-it-yourself lining makes the room seem more spacious.
In the resulting cells, when using timber, heat-insulating slabs are installed. Upon completion of work, the entire working area is covered plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.
The final stage is finishing wooden panels. The room takes on a finished look.
The technology for correct installation of lining on walls is divided into several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.
The process goes in the following order:
- wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
- the paneling is attached to wooden blocks or slats. The grooves are positioned down. To make the panels even, make a bottom adjustment using a trim piece wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the sheathing and the floor.
Differences in fasteners and their characteristics
Fasteners are used for fixation. The tenons of subsequent sheathing elements are inserted into the grooves and secured with specially selected parts. These can be staples, clamps, or regular nails and screws. Each of these elements of rigid fixation has its own meaning.
Nails driven into grooves are the most accurate, almost invisible type of fastening. The clamps are characterized as high-quality fixation. Staples require use mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.
Technique for aligning panels
The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. A decorative plinth is laid along the line where it joins the corner. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out very beautiful appearance.
A similar finishing with plinths is carried out along all lines where the wall surfaces meet the ceiling, along wall corners and protrusions.
The procedure for covering the ceiling
Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The only difference is in the initial order of the panels.
Layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows that appear between the facing elements are hidden.
Photo of lining installation
For the finish to look attractive, it must be properly secured.
When considering the question of how to attach lining to a wall, most reviews recommend only one option for carrying out the work. We will analyze as many as 3 methods; you need to choose the one that is best suited to your conditions and will ensure maximum reliability. After reading this review, you will understand all the nuances and easily complete the work on your own.
Mounting methods
We will look at how to properly secure the lining to wooden frame different ways. Each of them has its pros and cons, so please read all the information below carefully.
Option 1 - using finishing nails
This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades; for this work we will need special nails with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nail fits into the bar; most often, products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the most cheap way fastenings
Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:
- The first installation option is fastening into a groove, that is, into a recess on one of the sides; in this case, the nail is driven in at an angle of 45 degrees and covered with the next element. Below is a diagram of this technology;
- You can also fix elements through a tenon; below we show how to properly fasten the lining with nails in this case. Here the nail is also covered by the next element, ensuring the perfect appearance of the finish;
- Having chosen the option that you will use, you can get to work. Before attaching the lining to the wall, it is necessary to cut the elements to the required length so that there are gaps of several mm to compensate for deformations of the material due to temperature changes;
- The first element in the corner on one side is fixed through the top; anyway, the corner is covered with a plinth or other decorative element. On the other side, a nail is driven into the tenon or groove; this is done very carefully so as not to split the material or damage it. This way you can finish walls and ceilings quickly and reliably.
Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.
Option 2 – use of clamps
It is impossible to understand the question of how to fasten wooden lining, and not to mention clamps, this is the name of special staples that are placed on the tenon of elements and secured with nails. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and imitation timber - No. 5. The products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack; carnations are included.
Instructions for doing the work yourself include the following steps:
- First, the number of fasteners is calculated, they are located on each edge of the frame, you need to multiply the number of structure edges by the number of lining panels;
- The location of the clamps when the elements are arranged vertically does not matter, but if the finishing is located horizontally, then they should be at the bottom;
- The working process is very simple: the lining is put in place, fits well with the previous element, after which clamps are placed and secured with small nails. To make it easier to hammer them in, use a spacer.
Advice! If you want to ensure higher fastening strength, then instead of nails you can use self-tapping screws for fastening clamps; the 3x20 mm option is best suited.
Option 3 - use self-tapping screws
If you are thinking about how to fix the lining to the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is fraught with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.
The workflow in this case looks like this:
- In the groove connection of the lining, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 degrees with a 3 mm thick drill;
- The element is attached to the sheathing, tightly joined, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The work should be done very carefully: the cap should sink into the material so as not to interfere with the joining, but at the same time you should not press too hard so that the wood does not crack.
The question is often asked about what to attach PVC lining to; in this case, all of the above options are suitable. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.
