If you like these cute flowers that you are used to growing in open ground, then you should try to “move” them into the apartment. This is not difficult to do. Select relatively short varieties of asters, plant them in a prepared container and allow them to bloom in the yard. Next, try bringing a pot of asters into your apartment and observe the plant.
What conditions are needed to grow asters?
Choose sunny windows to grow these plants. They love very much sunbathing and do not suffer from direct hits sun rays. As for watering, it should be abundant and regular. Asters love moist soil, so if you notice. If the plant behaves “gloomily”, try watering it. The soil for seedlings should be light. Be sure to use drainage when planting asters.
If you are planning to grow asters from seeds, then pay attention to following points. First of all, decide on the sowing time. You can start sowing asters in late fall to enjoy the colorful flowers in winter. However in early spring It’s not too late to do this either. Sowing dates vary depending on the variety and optimal conditions for growth. If your seedlings begin to stretch upward, then they should be moved to a sunnier side.
Do asters growing at home need to be replanted?
Asters can be either annual or perennial. It follows that the question of replanting for each variety is individual. Obviously, there is no point in replanting annual varieties. They will delight you for several months, after which they die off. All you have to do is empty the pot for new seedlings.
Otherwise the situation will be perennial varieties astr. If necessary, you can transplant them into a larger pot with updated soil mixture. However, it is best to remove asters that have already survived the flowering period to a cool place and maintain soil moisture. The ground part of the flower dies, however root system remains viable.
Of course, if you purchased an aster in a store and brought it home in a purchased pot, then it is best to deal with the issue of replanting the plant. Pay attention to the condition of the aster's roots. If you notice that the roots are slightly blackened or dry, carefully remove them from the plant.
Following simple rules for caring for asters will allow you to enjoy their flowering for a long time.
Caring for asters consists of regular watering, careful loosening of the soil and fertilizing, which provides the flower crops with the necessary nutrition.
Asters prefer a sunny, wind-protected location with well-drained and fertilized soil with an acidity close to neutral. On soils with insufficient humus content, fertilizing with organic fertilizers is necessary. On fertile soils - infusion of bird droppings.
Asters should not be planted after gladioli, tulips, carnations and returned to their original site earlier than after 4-5 years. The best predecessors are calendula and tagetes. The application of manure to this crop leads to damage to plants by fusarium. In the fall, before deep digging of the soil, it is recommended to add 2-4 kg of humus or compost per 1 m2; before spring digging, 20-40 grams. superphosphate, 15 - 20 g ammonium sulfate, 15-20 g potassium salt. Doses of fertilizers are indicated approximately. Specific doses must be calculated based on agrochemical analysis of soil samples.
Perennial aster reproduces by spring or autumn division of bushes, annual aster - only by seeds. Almost all varieties and varieties of aster are easily propagated using seeds. The seed shell is dense, which allows it to be transported without any problems. unfavourable conditions. Despite the density of the shell, aster seeds swell easily and soon germinate. Seeds remain viable for 2-3 years.
Growing conditions
Annual and perennial asters prefer sunny areas, although they tolerate light partial shade. They grow well on loamy and sandy loam, moderately moist soils with neutral acidity. The exception is the alpine aster, which requires sandy loam alkaline soil. The area where asters grow must be well drained. Damp, flooded places in spring and autumn are unsuitable for asters.
Preparing the soil for asters
Even in the fall, you should take care of the soil in which you plan to plant asters in the future. The soil must be dug up to a depth of 22-30 cm and fertilizer added for digging: 2-4 kg of humus or compost (astra does not tolerate fresh manure, since it contributes to the infestation of plants by fusarium) and 6-9 g of superphosphate and potassium salt per 1 m2.
If the soil is acidic, liming should be done in late autumn, taking into account that adding 350-400 g of lime carbonate per 1 m2 increases the pH by 1.
In early spring, the soil needs to be loosened to a depth of 15-18 cm to retain more moisture and allow germination weeds who spent the winter in it.
Before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, the area should be thoroughly weeded, leveled and loosened again to a depth of 4-6 cm.
Growing seedlings
Asters in the Non-Black Earth Region are usually grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown in a window in the second half of March, in a greenhouse - in April. For sowing, mix turf soil with peat and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1.
Preferably received soil mixture sift through a sieve with 1-1.5 cm holes. Good garden soil directly from the site will also do. Sprinkle the soil on top with a layer of clean sand 2-2.5 cm thick.
Seedling boxes or pots are thoroughly spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water) and filled with soil. 1-2 days before sowing, it is spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate, or, in extreme cases, just boiling water. During sowing, the soil should not be wet, but only moist.
The seeds are sown scattered, not sprinkled with soil, but covered with paper. It is removed after 3-5 days, when shoots appear. Then the box is placed on a bright windowsill and the seedlings are carefully watered with water at room temperature.
In the future, watering should be infrequent, but plentiful. The temperature when growing seedlings is maintained at 16-18°C during the day and 12-15°C at night. This temperature can be achieved by ventilating the room or greenhouse.
The time from emergence to picking (7-8 days after emergence) is a very crucial moment, since a “black leg” may appear. During this period, you need to carefully monitor both soil moisture and air temperature. Seedlings dive when the first true leaf forms.
Plants are planted every 5-7 cm in a checkerboard pattern and watered. If the subcotyledonous knee of the seedlings is very elongated, then when picking they can be deepened almost to the cotyledon leaves.
7-10 days after picking, the rooted seedlings are fed with any complex mineral fertilizer (30 g per 10 liters of water).
When the 4th leaf appears, the seedlings begin to harden, lowering the temperature so that it is 10-12°C during the day and 8-10°C at night. The total duration of hardening should be 15-20 days.
Hardened seedlings take root better and grow faster after transplantation. It can withstand temperatures down to minus 4°C.
During hardening, reduce watering. Plants are planted in the 2-3rd decade of May. By the time of planting in the ground, asters should have a strong stem 6-10 cm high and 5-7 large bright green leaves.
2-3 days before transplanting and before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, especially if they were grown without pots. This will help better preserve the roots and soil ball. It is preferable to plant in the evening.
For asters, the feeding area is very important - they should never be thickened. Seedlings of tall varieties are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm between plants, low-growing asters are planted after 10-15 cm.
When planting in multiple rows, leave 60-70 cm between the rows. If planted on a raised flower bed (15-25 cm high), large asters are placed at a distance of 30-35 and 35-40 cm between the rows, low-growing ones at 15-20 and 20-25, respectively cm.
Planting is carried out with double watering: in the holes and from above. The soil around the planted seedlings is sprinkled (mulched) with dry soil. In hot weather, it is advisable to cover the plants with a light non-woven fabric for several days for better survival.
Important tip: In order for asters to form strong bushes with lush inflorescences, on the eve of sowing, soak the seeds for 7 hours in a solution of zinc chloride or molybdenum (0.5-08 g per 1 liter of water).
Propagation of asters by seeds
Usually, asters are grown through seedlings for earlier flowering (especially late varieties) or obtaining seeds. If all this is not so necessary, then asters can be grown by sowing in open ground. Such plants are less likely to suffer from fusarium and bloom longer, although they produce almost no seeds.
Asters can be sown in the spring, as soon as the soil warms up. Usually sowing is carried out in early May, seedlings appear on May 19-24. Seeds are prepared in the same way as when sowing seedlings, and sown in furrows 0.5-0.8 cm deep.
Cover with a layer of soil, water well, and lightly mulch or cover in dry weather. non-woven material before emergence. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 10-15 cm (taking into account the fact that seedlings will continue to fall out in the future).
You don’t have to pull out the excess plants, but carefully dig them up and transplant them to another place. Flowering of asters sown directly into the ground will be 19-25 days later than home seedlings, but longer.
You can sow asters in late autumn. They are sown in previously prepared soil, placed in furrows, and sprinkled with prepared dry soil. The soil must be frozen when sowing, otherwise the seeds may germinate and die. Winter sowing in December-January is also possible for asters.
If there are no severe frosts, snow is raked from areas prepared for asters, dry seeds are sown in furrows and sprinkled with just dry soil or mixed with peat, and a layer of snow is poured on top. With pre-winter or winter sowing, seedlings appear in late April - early May.
Basic rules for caring for home asters
Caring for asters includes mandatory loosening of the soil. It is advisable to do this after each watering or rain. Loosen the soil to a depth of 4-6 cm, taking into account that the bulk of the roots are in the surface layer (20 cm).
Before the plants begin to branch, light hilling can be done to a height of 5-7 cm. This will enhance root growth. When watering, you must remember that both a lack and an excess of water are harmful to asters. In hot weather, it is better to water less frequently, but abundantly (up to 3 buckets per 1 m2) and be sure to loosen after that. If in dry weather you are late with watering or give it insufficiently, the inflorescences will be small and of small size.
Asters sown before winter not only bloom earlier, but also form more lush inflorescences. If possible, then after rooting the seedlings it is better to feed the asters with a solution of mullein diluted 1:10.
In order for the aster to grow into a beauty, it needs to be fed. Usually they give 3 feedings.
The first time is fed 10-15 days after planting in the ground or thinning, using 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2.
When the buds appear, a second feeding is given, this time using 50-60 g/m2 of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The same fertilizers are given during the third feeding, which is carried out at the beginning of asters flowering.
It should be remembered that asters cannot tolerate dampness or excessive waterlogging and are considered drought-resistant flowers, but in dry weather they must be watered abundantly. Pay special attention to watering when setting buds, otherwise lush flowering you can't wait.
Landed on fertile soil asters at good watering and periodic fertilizing they will bloom wonderfully until the coldest weather. For the first time, flowerbeds with asters are enriched with full mineral fertilizer two weeks after transplanting the seedlings into the flowerbed, and during the period of bud formation and flowering, fertilizing without nitrogen fertilizers is used. Organic fertilizers Apply only on poor soils.
Because the main enemy asters - diseases, especially fusarium, it is recommended for prevention to spray the plants with a solution that contains the following microelements: potassium permanganate, magnesium salts, zinc, cobalt, copper, ammonium molybdate and boric acid.
Also, make sure that when growing asters they do not show signs of rust, late blight, sclerotinia, powdery mildew, rhizoctonia, jaundice, damage by slugs, aphids, cutworms, spider mite, nematodes.
In caring for the garden, sometimes there is no time at all to provide proper care for the flowers, so for most gardeners the most convenient option grows aster - one of the most unpretentious, but at the same time amazingly beautiful flowers!
Choosing a place to plant asters
Aster is able to regenerate its damaged root system and even during flowering can easily tolerate replanting
Advantages of growing aster:
- flowers are not afraid of cold weather, and perennial asters are even able to bloom in temperatures down to -7 degrees;
- the seeds withstand unfavorable conditions well and germinate easily;
- It is convenient to propagate aster both by seeds and vegetatively;
- growing seedlings does not cause much trouble, but you can sow aster seeds directly in the beds;
- aster is able to regenerate its damaged root system and even during flowering can easily tolerate replanting;
- A huge selection of varieties and varieties of aster with flowers of the most amazing shapes and colors allows you to create a real masterpiece from your flower garden!
Even a novice gardener can easily figure out how to grow asters. The main thing is to plant flowers in soil that has been previously fertilized with nutrients, and do not forget about weeding and timely watering. Well, if you manage to fertilize a couple of times over the summer, your flowers will grow especially beautiful and large, with powerful stems. However, some features of growing asters still need to be taken into account.
Video about sowing and growing aster
In order for multi-colored asters to get sick as little as possible and delight you with their bright beauty for a long time, you need to correctly determine the place on the site for planting them and prepare suitable soil. Like many others garden flowers, asters form large, healthy buds only if there is sufficient moisture and nutrients in the soil. Therefore, a flowerbed for them should be prepared in the fall by digging up the ground and adding river sand with humus or sand with peat to it so that the soil is fertile, breathable and well-drained.
The acidity of the soil should be close to neutral. If you add humus immediately before planting asters, the plants may be affected by fungal fusarium (growing asters on dense or acidic soils leads to the same result). In the spring, before digging, it is recommended to add ammonium sulfate, superphosphate and potassium salt to the soil.
To prevent the risk of asters becoming infected with fusarium, they should not be planted after potatoes, tomatoes, carnations, gillyflowers, gladioli, and tulips. Asters can be grown in the same flower bed for six years, and asters can be returned to their original place only after four years. Best results This can be achieved by sowing asters after marigolds, marigolds, and perennial herbs.
The best results can be achieved when sowing asters after marigolds, marigolds, and perennial grasses
Asters feel good in partial shade; they love open sunny places, however, in extreme heat and drought they lose their decorative value. It is advisable to choose a place for the flowerbed that is protected from the wind and from constant dampness, so that groundwater did not lie too close to the surface of the earth.
Planting asters in seedlings and without seedlings
You can prepare aster seeds yourself, collecting them from dried inflorescences at the end of summer, or purchase seeds in a store for each season, experimenting with different varieties astr. The main thing is that the seeds are of high quality, then the seedlings will sprout 100%.
Planting asters in seedlings
Seedling method:
- in the last days of March, seeds treated with fungicide are sown in boxes or in a greenhouse along previously prepared grooves;
- sprinkled on top thin layer finely sifted humus;
- the ground is carefully watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
- crops are covered with paper or film;
- until the first sprouts appear, the seedlings should be kept at a temperature of +18 degrees;
- after five days you can remove the film and bring the seedlings out into the light;
- watering is carried out after green sprouts appear;
- picking should be done when the first true leaves are formed;
- seven days after picking, you can begin weekly feeding of aster seedlings with complex mineral fertilizers;
- Plants can be planted in a flowerbed as early as the beginning of May.
Seedless method
Sowing asters without seedlings
Aster seeds are sown as soon as the ground warms up, directly onto the flower beds, sprinkling a little soil on top and covering with film until germination. With the emergence of young seedlings, the film can be removed and the plants can be covered only in case of frost. It is not necessary to pick them, it is enough to sow them at intervals of a couple of centimeters, and then thin them out so that there are 12 cm between plants, or leave the plantings thickened. Asters planted without seedlings begin to bloom much earlier.
Basic rules for caring for asters
Asters cannot tolerate dampness or excessive waterlogging and are considered drought-resistant flowers, but in dry weather they must be watered abundantly. Pay special attention to watering when setting buds, otherwise you may not expect lush flowering.
Asters planted on fertile soil with good watering and periodic feeding will bloom wonderfully until the cold weather. For the first time, flowerbeds with asters are enriched with full mineral fertilizer two weeks after transplanting the seedlings into the flowerbed, and during the period of bud formation and flowering, fertilizing without nitrogen fertilizers is used. Organic fertilizers are applied only on poor soils.
Video about asters
Since the main enemy of aster is disease, especially fusarium, it is recommended for prevention to spray plants with a solution that contains the following microelements: potassium permanganate, magnesium salts, zinc, cobalt, copper, ammonium molybdate and boric acid.
Also, make sure that when growing asters, they do not show signs of rust, late blight, sclerotinia, powdery mildew, rhizoctonia, jaundice, damage by slugs, aphids, cutworms, spider mites, and nematodes.
The genus name means "star" in Latin. This association is related to the shape of the plants' flowers.
Astra came into culture several centuries ago, winning the hearts of flower growers with its combination of amazing decorativeness and unpretentiousness. But it is noteworthy that some garden plants, which flower lovers are accustomed to thinking of asters, actually belong to the monotypic genus.
With all the diversity of Asters, they are usually divided into two main groups:
- spring;
- summer-autumn.
The root system of Asters is developed and strong. Stems are erect, with simple and branching shoots. The shoots are most often colored green color, but there are also reddish ones.
The leaves are lanceolate, with serrated edges. The predominant color of the leaf blades is solid green. In some species, the foliage has a grayish tint.
The basket inflorescences of Asters are paniculate and umbellate. Single, semi-double and double flowers painted in various shades of white, yellow, pink, lilac, red and other colors.
Growing
Aster is grown in open and closed ground. These perennials look beautiful in group and single plantings. Asters are no less impressive in the floral decoration of rooms.
Caring for Astra is not difficult, but she always needs bright, diffused light. To do this, Asters are planted in a well-lit place on outdoors. When growing indoors, you should regularly rotate the pot with the plant around its axis. This is the only way that all parts of the Aster will grow evenly, and the bush will become symmetrical.
Asters are fed with complex mineral fertilizers. It is recommended to apply such fertilizing 2-3 times during the period of active plant growth.
Diseases and pests
Spider mites, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt.
Reproduction
Asters can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, or dividing the bush.
Seed propagation method:
Asters are sown in prepared beds after the end of spring frosts or in planting containers. The container for growing Asters should be filled with a mixture of vermicompost and coconut fiber, with a drainage layer provided.
The sown material is sprinkled with soil and watered. After this, the container is covered with polyethylene and removed when shoots appear. After the formation of a real leaf, picking can be done. Grown seedlings are transplanted into well-loosened soil.
Cuttings:
In cultivation, Asters propagate well from cuttings. The apical shoots 10–15 cm long are cut off in summer. It is advisable to treat the lower part with a growth stimulator. After planting, the cuttings are watered and covered with polyethylene. In the future they need high humidity air, diffused sunlight and temperature +22–25°C. The rooting process takes about four weeks.
Bush division:
Asters bushes are divided every four or five years. Autumn-flowering plants are dug up in the spring. Spring flowering ones are divided into autumn period. Before dividing the bush, you need to shake off the old soil from it. Three to five shoots and an intact root system should remain on the separated part. Delenki are planted on permanent place. Care for separated Asters is carried out according to the standard scheme.
First steps after purchase
When purchasing seeds for growing Asters, it is important to pay attention to the date of packaging. Seeds remain viable for two years.
Secrets of success
Asters' health worsens in stuffy conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure constant access of fresh air to the plant. When growing indoors, regular ventilation is sufficient, but drafts are contraindicated for Astra.
Asters are content with moderate watering. Plants need to be watered regularly in summer, but not allowing the soil to become waterlogged. Periodic loosening of the soil prevents the formation of a “crust”.
Side shoots of some species harm the decorative appearance of the plant. Because of them, the flowers become smaller and the seeds do not set. "Extra" stems must be carefully removed.
Possible difficulties
The appearance of a whitish coating on stems and leaves in the autumn.
Causes:
- defeat by powdery mildew.
- lack of nutrients in the soil.
- violation of the irrigation regime.
Yellowing and curling of leaf blades during budding and flowering, “striation” of stems.
Causes:
- fusarium wilt.
- excess organic matter in the soil.
- excessive soil acidity.
- non-compliance with watering rules.
Aster symbolizes a beautiful wicker wreath. This is a combination of the Greek words callinos stephos - beautiful wreath. Translated, it means star, according to ancient legend. The flower has been known since ancient times and had extraordinary power. He was associated with the constellation Virgo, which symbolizes love.
Aster - annual or perennial herbaceous plant native to the Far East, China, Korea, Mongolia, family Asteraceae.
Complex inflorescence - baskets in the form of a panicle or scutellum. Erect or branched stems are green or pale red. Oval or toothed leaves are located on short petioles. The upper leaves are sessile. Depending on the variety, it blooms from June until the first frost. The fruit is seeds that ripen a month after the start of flowering and remain viable for 2-3 years.
Wild asters are of no value and are poorly decorative.
Asters: types and varieties
Location
The flower prefers bright sunlight. It is not afraid of direct sunlight, but can exist perfectly in the shade. Aster tolerates frosts down to -3 degrees. The flower grows well at moderate temperatures and average air humidity. During the hot period of the year and at the time of flowering, watering is increased to extend the flowering period to 50 days. Astra reacts poorly to too wet soil, or stagnation of water.
The soil
Astra prefers slightly acidic light soil, sandy loam or loamy components. It is not recommended to plant in the ground for 4-5 years, where tulips, gladioli, and carnations previously grew. It is better to plant after calendula or tagates.
To avoid pests, flowers are often transplanted from place to place. It is necessary to return to the previous site no earlier than after 4 years.
Top dressing
In autumn, per 1 square meter, add 2-3 kg of humus (compost).
In spring, 20-30 grams of each component:
- superphosphate
- ammonium sulfate
- potassium salt
I will splice it after planting, they add nitrogen fertilizers. After the first buds appear, potassium and superphosphate fertilizers are applied. Everything is first diluted with water for irrigation.
Reproduction of asters
Growing from seeds.
Photo of asters seedlings grown from seeds
The simplest and reliable way propagation using seedlings. Previously, at the end of March, at home, the seeds are sown in a box with garden soil. The seeds are sprinkled on top with a small layer of soil 1-2 cm, carefully watered to prevent the seeds from floating and placed in a mini greenhouse, or covered with plastic wrap.
Seeds can be used 2-3 year old. The temperature is kept at 18-20 degrees. After a few days, the first shoots should appear. The soil should be constantly moderately moist. With the appearance of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings dive into separate containers. The distance between seedlings is 3 cm; the roots are pre-cut.
As soon as the temperature outside rises sufficiently and it becomes warm, the asters gradually become accustomed to fresh air. Starting in May, you can replant into open ground; by this time, the height of the seedlings should be at least 10 cm and have 5-8 leaves.
Photo of asters - grown seedlings
In the flower garden, asters are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm; they take root well and tolerate low nighttime temperature fluctuations. The method of propagation from seedlings, in contrast to direct sowing in open ground, allows for rapid and lush flowering.
If your climate does not allow growing flowers for a long time open areas, at the time of flowering with the onset of the first frosts, the roots along with the soil can be dug up and transplanted into a pot, then placed on the windowsill indoors. The aster will tolerate transplantation well and will delight the eye with its beautiful flowers for a long time.
Diseases and pests
Photos of aster pests
Through open ground, asters are often attacked by pests and various diseases.
Wilting flowers- fusarium. Fungal disease that affects mature plant at the time of flowering, or at the beginning of budding. The only solution to the fight is to regularly change the habitat, and instead of asters, plant other flowers and vegetable crops and only after 4-5 years return to their original place.
Pre-fertilization with manure or fresh compost leads to damage. This cannot be done.
Allowed in small quantities rotted humus. The distance between plants should be appropriate, 40 cm, the neck should be well ventilated to avoid stagnation of water. Bushes affected by fusarium are quickly dug up and destroyed. There are a number of species resistant to this disease.
In addition to fusarium, flowers are affected by gray mold, powdery mildew, etc. To destroy the disease and as a preventative measure, the bushes are treated with the drug foundationazole.
The main pest of aster is aphid. It is capable of transmitting various viral diseases. Such plants are destroyed by burning.
Bud aphid - affects still young seedlings when only 3-4 leaves appear. The leaves wrinkle, change color and shape. For destruction, drugs from karbofos, chlorophos, depis (Inta-Vir) are used. The plant is sprayed with these products regularly, in the morning or evening.
In addition to the above pests, the aster is affected by thrips, slobbering pennies, and meadow bugs. For destruction, use the above listed, as well as additional purchased drugs.
Asters photo
