Gentle spring Flower anemone got its name from the Greek word “anemos”, which means wind. People call it that - anemone. In order for the anemone to please you with its delicate blooms in the spring, you should take care of it in the fall. And one of the main questions is when to dig up anemones and how to store them in winter. Currently, there are already more than one and a half hundred species of anemones, and there are noticeable differences in their growing conditions. This is largely due to the nature of the anemone's roots. All anemones can be divided into:
- rhizomatous,
- tuberous.
Do you need to dig up anemones in the fall?
Rhizome anemones. not so spectacular during flowering, but also less capricious to care for. There is no need to dig them up. In the middle zone winter period they just need to be covered. This can be done by mulching with peat, sawdust, or covered with fallen leaves. In this case, the anemones will overwinter well and will delight you with their blooms at the end of next spring.
Tuberous anemones. We will dwell in more detail on whether it is necessary to dig it up for the winter and how to properly store it. planting material tuberous anemones. In nature, these types of anemones are common in southern Europe. They belong to plants with a short growing season. After flowering they produce seeds and die.
Tuberous anemones are very sensitive to low temperatures. They are afraid of frost, they can rot due to stagnation of water, or even dry out due to temperature contrasts. Therefore, it is recommended to dig up anemone tubers in the fall and store them indoors until spring. Let's take a closer look at the most known species tuberous anemones, considering them from the point of view of frost resistance: Anemone Apennine. Her homeland is the Balkans. But the flower is able to withstand frosts of minus 20 and below. Therefore, you can do without digging up tubers for the winter. Be sure to cover the plant with a thick layer of mulch (up to 15 cm), spruce branches or spunbond. You can do both at the same time.
Caucasian anemone. Grows in the Alps and the Caucasus. Quite cold-resistant, it can do without digging up tubers. It is enough, as with the previous variety, to mulch and cover with leaves, spruce branches or special material. Anemone is tender. According to experts, it is also capable, despite its name, of making do with only shelter in winter, remaining to overwinter in the soil. Garden anemone. But this variety of anemone must be dug up before the cold weather and stored strictly indoors. Anemone sparkling. The homeland is Spain and France, so the plant is also unable to tolerate low temperatures. Requires digging up the tubers, and this must be done in the summer, immediately after the ground part of the flower dies. Crown anemone. The most beautiful and delicate anemone of all known. It is called so because of the flower in the shape of a crown, with bright, felt-tip pen-colored petals, up to 8 cm in diameter. But it is precisely this type of anemone that is the most capricious. It is completely unsuited to wintering in the soil.
Crown anemone is grown in greenhouses all year round. It is intended for cutting, and can also be “driven out” for early flowering in winter. The flowering of crown anemone is especially pleasant and unexpected on the eve of Christmas, New Year or March 8th. In order for the anemone to bloom in January, it is planted in September; In order for the flower to appear in March, it is planted in October.
Best time to dig
This is best done in the fall. The best period for digging up anemone tubers in central Russia can be considered mid-September to early October.
How to dig correctly (key points)
Carefully dig up the tubers with a shovel or pitchfork, always in dry weather, shake them off the ground, and remove any remaining dry roots and stems. Then soak in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or foundationazole for half an hour to destroy possible pathogens.
How to store tubers in winter (common mistakes)
The entire process of proper storage of nodules can be divided into 2 stages:
- The washed tubers are laid out in one layer to dry for about a month. The room temperature should be about 20 degrees. And it should be well ventilated.
- You can dry the tubers on a cool veranda under layers of newspaper.
After a month, the dried tubers are placed in paper bag or wooden box with the addition of sand, peat or sawdust. You can also put them in plastic containers, having previously made holes for ventilation.
“Containers should be filled halfway so that the nodules can “breathe.” Optimal temperature storage in winter – plus 3-4 degrees Celsius.”
Storage errors
Do not keep in excessively wet sand or peat - the buds may wake up. If this happens, plant the nodules in a small pot and place in a bright, cool room, occasionally moderately moistening the soil in the pot. And with the onset of warmth, transfer the plant with a lump of earth into open ground.
The best place to store tubers is a dark, cool cellar. But it could also be the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. If the nodules are to be stored at room temperature, then they should first be dried more thoroughly to avoid rotting. Such dried nodules, which have become like mummified balls, are called “crackers” by flower growers. At a temperature of 15 degrees Celsius, such “crackers” remain viable for up to 2-3 years.
“At the same time, you need to understand that if the tubers are dried out, they will be preserved, but will enter a stage of such deep dormancy that it will be difficult to “wake them up” later.”
There is another approach. Since preparing anemones for storage is a rather troublesome task, it is easier to buy relatively inexpensive tubers every year and plant them in the spring through seedlings.
Storing crown anemone
The crown anemone tubers are also quite large, up to 5 cm in diameter. They must be dug up in the fall and stored in the same way as described above. If you plant tubers at the end of March-April, then pre-soaking is not required. If planted in May, then pre-soaking is required.
Conclusion
If you follow these simple requirements, then in the spring you will take tubers of anemones that have overwintered in the warmth out of the box. And after one and a half to two months they will thank you with their bright and vibrant flowering.
Recently, anemones have been widely used in landscaping. These grassy ones perennials They look very impressive when their petals sway in the wind, for which people call them “anemones”. In general, the flower is unpretentious, but it needs minimal care. Under natural conditions, anemone is found in mountains and temperate climates. We will discuss in detail how to plant an anemone in the fall in this article.
What you need to know when growing anemones
If you plan to plant anemones, then it will be useful to know some secrets for caring for the flower.
The perennial requires watering in hot weather.
Feeding anemones in the fall is carried out with mineral complexes, but when planting and during the development of the plant, it is advisable to use organic matter.
In the conditions of central Russia, anemones need shelter for the winter.
As you can see, caring for perennials is simple. The main rule of a gardener is to maintain the level of humidity around the flower.
How to adjust watering
When growing anemones, the soil must not be over-moistened; this leads to the development of rot in the root system. If you overdry the plant, the flowering will be poor and new buds will not form. How to properly organize watering an anemone?
In order for the humidity level to be appropriate, the flower is planted on raised beds, and a drainage layer is provided in the planting hole. In this case, the soil surface is mulched with a thick layer of peat or fallen leaves. With this approach, the required level of humidity will be maintained for a long time.
Water the flower taking into account weather conditions. If the weather is cool, watering is carried out once a week. In hot summers, the frequency of watering is increased. If necessary, anemones are watered once a day.
Autumn is the time to plant anemones
It should be borne in mind that in regions with very harsh winters, it is better to dig up the anemone and store the tuber until spring. If the climate allows, the flower will overwinter well in the ground. For early spring flowering, anemones are planted in the fall, before frost.
Choosing a landing site
Experienced gardeners It is recommended to grow anemones in partial shade. Indeed, in too shaded areas the plant stops blooming, and in open sunny areas its leaves suffer from burns. The best option There will be a flower bed that is lit only in the morning. Light intensity affects the onset of flowering.
Preparing the soil for planting anemones in the fall
Anemone is a very delicate flower; it is grown on fertile, loose soils. Deciduous soil with peat is most suitable. If the soil on the site is too dense, then sand and wood ash are added to it.
The bed for planting is prepared in advance by digging it up with organic matter. You can add humus or compost. Do not forget that the rhizomes of the plant grow greatly during the season, so when planting, leave enough space for their development.
Reproduction of anemones in autumn: how to plant
Anemone can be planted with seeds or tubers. Each method has its own subtleties that need to be taken into account.
Anemone propagation by seeds
Experienced gardeners advise using only freshly collected seeds for autumn planting of anemones, as they have a short shelf life.
Important!Before planting seeds in spring, they need to be stratified; in autumn, there is no need for such a procedure.
When sowing seeds, you need to take into account that they cannot be buried in the soil. They must be on its surface. Anemone seedlings are very fragile; they will not be able to break through a thick layer of soil mixture. Anemone shoots will appear in early spring when the snow melts. However, this method of propagation has a significant disadvantage - fragile seedlings are afraid of waterlogging. What to do in such a situation? Experienced summer residents Those who have managed to successfully grow anemone from seeds act somewhat differently. Let's look at the photo
In the fall, prepare wide containers for planting anemones, filling them with a light nutrient substrate, not forgetting to provide drainage and holes for draining excess liquid.
Sowing seeds is carried out in moist soil just before frost.
A box of seeds is buried in the garden until spring, and when it gets warmer it is taken out, even before germination. Stratification has already occurred, but melt water will no longer be able to harm fragile sprouts.
Flowering of anemones obtained from seeds will begin only in the third year of cultivation.
Dividing and planting anemone tubers
There are many varieties of anemones known in nature, the care and cultivation of which differ. There are varieties with root tubers and rhizomatous plants. Dividing and planting varieties that have a rhizome is carried out in the spring. Since in the fall the plant reacts poorly to transplantation. But tuberous anemones are more difficult to grow in spring. Here you can’t do without autumn planting.
The thing is that in order to germinate, the tubers need to undergo preparation. To do this, when spring planting They are pre-soaked in water until they swell. This is a rather labor-intensive process. But planting anemone tubers in autumn makes the work much easier. Preliminary preparation the plant does not need it. In spring, melt water will help the tubers soften sufficiently, shoots will appear without special effort. The depth of planting of root tubers is 5-7 cm.
Important! At autumn planting tubers planting holes must have good drainage, otherwise waterlogging will cause disease.
Caring for anemones after planting: preparing for winter
In the southern regions, anemones can be grown without additional shelter. With the onset of cold weather, it is enough to cover the bed with peat or compost. Before this, all leaves and stems must be cut off. In such conditions, anemones overwinter well and seedlings appear in the spring without loss.
In harsh climates, mulching will not help preserve plants. It is advisable to store anemone tubers indoors. To do this, they are dug up, dried and sent for storage. The room temperature is maintained at +15 degrees. Next, it is gradually reduced to +5 degrees.
Important! Anemones are dug up after the shoots and leaves have naturally dried out.
Note to the florist
. Why do anemone leaves turn yellow?
Spontaneous wilting and yellowing of the plant's leaves indicates a lack of nutrients in the soil. It is enough to feed the flower with complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Yellowing of leaves occurs due to insufficient or excessive watering.
If yellowing of leaves occurs in the second half of summer, then this is a natural process.
. Anemones are harmed by snails
Anemones are quite resistant to various diseases, only excess humidity soil can cause rot. Most often, plants are harmed by snails and slugs, which spoil the leaves and appearance plants. Frequent spraying with metaldehyde will help save the flower from “uninvited guests”.
Proper care and care will help to grow bright and healthy anemones, which will decorate the garden with their petals from spring to late autumn.
29 Dec 2015
Beautifully flowering perennial garden flowers , which do not overwinter in open ground, are in demand among our flower growers. The spectacular large flowers of these plants cover the additional worries of storing their tubers, bulbs and rhizomes until spring. Heat-loving flowers that are not adapted to winter in areas with frosty winters include: crown anemone, tuberous begonia, dahlia, gladiolus, cannas, ranunculus or Asian buttercup, tigridia, freesia. Storing planting material for each crop until spring has its own characteristics and requirements for storage conditions, which we will discuss below:
The most beautiful of all types of anemone. Her big ones bright flowers will decorate the flowerbed from spring to summer. But crown anemone is less winter-hardy than its related species. This plant has tuberous rhizomes, which must be preserved at a temperature of +5...+10 degrees until spring. After digging, anemone tubers are cleaned of soil, dry roots and shoots. To prepare for storage, they are washed in a disinfectant solution with any fungicidal drug or in potassium permanganate, then dried. For storage, the bulbs are placed in a paper bag or plastic bag with holes, sprinkled with peat or sawdust. Store anemone bulbs in a cool, dry and dark place, for example in the basement. In the spring, anemone tubers take out their storage, so that they awaken faster, they are soaked for several hours in warm water. Then the tubers are planted in pots with a light peat substrate and watered regularly. In May, after frost, the sprouted tubers are planted in flower beds.
Can be grown as indoor flowers in pots and as garden plants in open ground. In the first and second cases, when the weather gets colder in the fall, the plants go into a dormant state, flowering stops, and the stems and leaves die off. After the first frost, the above-ground part of the begonias dies, then the tubers are dug up, the stems are cut at a height of 2-3 cm. Before storage, the tubers must be cleared of soil; you can put them in boxes without drying them, sprinkle them with damp peat or sand and place them in a cool place with a temperature of + 6…+10 0 C. At the end of winter - beginning of spring, begonia tubers are taken out of storage and distributed into pots or boxes with light fertile soil, without sprinkling them on top. The planted tubers are moved to a warm, bright room with a temperature of +20 0 C and the soil around the tuber is moderately watered; with the appearance of sprouts, the tubers are covered, they begin to be fed and watered more abundantly. At the end of spring, overgrown begonias are planted in flower beds.
Large begonia tubers are well preserved during the winter, but young ones small size The tubers can dry out, so in the fall it is better to plant them in a pot of soil, place them in a cool room and rarely water them.
Spectacular ones delight us with flowering until frost, but at the first sub-zero temperatures, the leaves and stems of the plant die. To prevent the tuberous rhizomes of dahlias from freezing, they are dug up before the onset of severe frosts and cleared of soil. Dahlia tubers cannot be divided into parts in the fall, as the wounds may rot during storage. For propagation, the dug out rhizome with tubers is divided in the spring, after sprouts appear on them.
For the first week, dahlia tubers are dried in a ventilated room, then moved to a cool place with a temperature of +3...+5 0 C and air humidity of at least 80%, usually a cellar. When storing in basements, where humidity is lower, it is better to additionally sprinkle the tubers with dry sand, vermiculite, ash or peat. In an apartment, you can store dahlia tubers until spring in the refrigerator, wrapped in paper, and in a room, dahlia tubers can be stored after pre-treating them with liquid paraffin.
Luxurious ones do not like the cold, so they are dug up even before the first frost, 40-50 days after flowering with green stems and leaves. The stems are cut at a height of 1-2 cm, the corms are cleared of soil, the upper covering scales are left and dried for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of +25...+30 degrees, possibly in a bright place. After drying, old corms are removed, new replaced bulbs, as well as small children are placed for storage in paper bags or boxes, stored at a temperature of +5...+8 degrees and average air humidity.
Majestic ones can grow greatly over the summer and form a real green hedge, but with the first frosts their leaves and the upper part of the stem turn black, which means it’s time to dig up the tuberous rhizomes and send them for storage until spring. Canna rhizomes are very easy to preserve; you need to carefully dig them up with a lump of earth, trying not to injure the juicy tubers with a shovel. Move to containers or boxes and lower to the basement. Cannas are stored well at a temperature of +5...+10 0 C and air humidity of 70-90%.
This unusual one blooms very beautifully. The homeland of this flower is the regions of Europe and Asia Minor with warm winters, therefore, when growing ranunculus tubers in our country for the winter, it is necessary to dig them up and store them in a cool, dry place until spring. Small nodules of the plant are collected in a bunch, they are cleared of soil, dried, covered with peat or sand and stored in a dry place at a temperature of +4...+6 degrees. In spring, to awaken, they are soaked in warm water, then planted in pots with soil and watered moderately until germination. At the beginning of summer, tubers with sprouts are transplanted into open ground.
Exotic has not yet gained great popularity among flower growers. If the rules for storing tubers and bulbs of popular flowers have long been memorized, then many do not know how to store tigridia bulbs. The bulbs of the Tigridia plant are small, similar to small onion. In the fall, when the upper part of the plant turns yellow, the bulbs need to be dug up, cleaned of dry stems and roots, dried and placed in a paper bag or cardboard box, sprinkled with peat, sand or sawdust. For storage, boxes with tigridia bulbs are placed in a cool place with a temperature of +5...+8 degrees.
Graceful ones will decorate your flower garden in the second half of summer. It is best to plant freesia bulbs in containers or boxes and bring the plants indoors before frost sets in, then the freesia will continue to bloom until late autumn. After the above-ground part has dried, the plant bulbs are dug up, cleared of soil, sprinkled with peat or sand and stored in a warm place, perhaps at room temperature about +25 degrees. During storage, the filled substrate must be periodically sprayed so that the bulbs do not dry out from the heat. In the spring, a month before planting, the freesia bulbs must be moved to a cool place with a temperature of +10 0 C, and in May they must be planted in the soil. By following this regime for wounding the bulbs, you will get beautiful freesia blooms.
While storing flower planting material, check periodically. Carefully inspect the tubers, bulbs and rhizomes of flowers; if you notice stains, rot, mold, you must immediately treat everything with a fungicidal preparation, diluting it according to the instructions, for example Fundahol or Khom. Large rhizomes can be sprayed with the drug, small bulbs can be soaked in the solution for several minutes. It is better to throw away severely damaged specimens, and cut out partially rotten areas, treat them with a fungicide, brilliant green, or sprinkle them with crushed charcoal. If mold appears, the storage must be ventilated, and the planting material must be sprinkled with wood ash.
