Before you start making wood products, you need to prepare the source material and, in particular, eliminate the curvature of the boards by straightening at least one edge.
If the deflection of the board does not exceed 15 mm, then you can straighten the edge using a plane or woodworking machine, but if you come across a workpiece with a large curvature, use one of the suggested techniques.
1. A long board, the deflection of which is more than 15 mm, should be cut into 2-3 short ones. This will reduce the deflection of each workpiece and use a plane. The figure shows how from a long board with a deflection of 20 mm, you can get three workpieces with a deflection of 7 mm.
2. If for some reason it is impossible to cut the board into several parts, try using this method.
Set the woodworking machine to a cutting depth of 1.5mm, then place the piece with the concave edge on the machine table and make several passes from one end of the board. With each pass, the length of the processed part of the board will increase. As the cut gets closer to the middle of the board, turn it with the other end and repeat this procedure. Both cuts should “meet” in the middle of the board. After such an operation, the curvature (deflection) of the edge will be less than 3 mm. Now use two full passes to completely level the edge.
Start processing from the end of the board where the wood fibers are directed obliquely downwards away from the cutter. Make the last pass along the entire length of the board, reducing the removal amount to 1 mm. To avoid chipping and scuffing, the feed should be small.
The direction of the grain of the board in relation to the direction of rotation of the cutter
We remove material 1.5 mm at a time until the curvature of the board is reduced to 3 mm or less
3. If the board is too long for processing (planing) on the machine, or the curvature of the short board is very large, proceed as follows. Using a straight edge or scoring cord, mark a line as shown in the picture and saw off the concave part of the board along the line circular saw. Finish the edge using a plane in one pass.
Tapping a line using a cord
It should be remembered that the wood of some tree species easily chips or tears. This often happens when working, for example, with maple boards with characteristic bird's eye curls, especially if the plane blades are not sharpened enough. In this case, reduce the feed to the minimum (2.5-5 cm/s) and remove chips of 1 mm or less.
If you are eliminating a slight curvature of the board and it is difficult to determine the amount of material removed, you can use the following method. Draw a wavy line along the edge, then make one pass. The lines remaining on the edge will tell you about the need further processing.
Wood is very popular when finishing rooms, as it has a number of very beneficial properties. This material perfectly retains heat, does not emit any harmful substances and is an environmentally friendly natural material.
Now you can have lumber delivered directly to the construction site. But you need to take into account that such boards can fail, since they perfectly allow moisture to pass through. And when the board dries, it will deform in any case. Unfortunately, such cases occur everywhere, so you need to know what to do in this situation.
Parquet sanding machine;
Electric planer;
Plane.
Instructions.
Note.
kakpostroit.su
How to straighten crooked boards and whether they will become deformed again
Very often in construction and repairs we are faced with the need to use various boards. Wood adds beauty and practicality to both interior and exterior decoration. However, not all of them are perfectly smooth during use, and manufacturers’ guarantees about this are not always justified. What to do and what to do in such cases? Is it possible to eliminate defects irrevocably, and how can this be achieved? We will discuss this today in our article.
Ways to combat curvature
So, if you are an expert in this field of knowledge and are not used to giving up under any circumstances, then do not be clouded in this case either. A simple plane will help you here, with which you can plan a dry board fixed in a stationary state. Pay attention to the length of the sole of such a tool, since a short plane will not be able to eliminate such a defect. Thus, you will get a completely flat edged board without special effort. If there are not enough boards, then manual option A plane will help to cope with this task.
If there is a mountain of materials in front of you, then use an electric planer, since the back end is more difficult here. This requires endurance and patience, and without special carpentry skills you will get by quite well.
Fix such a board and slowly remove the warped part of it. Thanks to the wide base of the plane, you will be able to feel the exit to a flat surface. It should be remembered that such a process will reduce the thickness of the boards. Absolutely smooth material It’s unlikely to be done, therefore, when laying the boards on the floor when installing it, try to do it closely, securing it with self-tapping screws. After this, sanding will consolidate the result. Here, in help will come a scraping machine, which you don’t have to buy, but can also be rented, which will help save on costs.
The second option for correcting uneven board surfaces is to follow the simple laws of physics - the action of weight. Stack the boards using special spacers to prevent them from touching each other. Place heavy things on top, say barrels of water. All this should be placed in the barn, where the window will be open and turned on heat gun. This method will help you save the thickness of the boards, but the effect of this procedure is not always justified.
Causes of curvature
It should be noted that the result of any method of dealing with crooked boards depends on the cause of such a violation. If the floor was laid incorrectly or the curvature was the result of wet boards, then simple leveling will not bring long-lasting results. In addition, you will need to dismantle the cavity under the boards, dry it and set up a ventilation system, only then will leveling the boards make sense.
Thus, there are several ways out of the current situation and their result will be positive if you take a comprehensive approach to solving the issue. Good luck!
www.stroyservice.ru
How to straighten a board - Easy
1. Straightening a warped board.
24. Lattice clamp
Painting restoration techniques. E.V.Kudryavtsev, M. 2002
Painting
Ammonia is a gas that is easily soluble in water; the solution has alkaline reaction. Reacting with sulfurous acid in the atmosphere, ammonia turns into ammonium sulfate. Ammonium sulfate is hygroscopic and therefore plays main role in the “blueing” of varnish on paintings, as well as in the destruction of cardboard.
By the way *
Architecture
In Egypt (Cairo), the gigantic statue of Ramses II was damaged due to the high concentration of exhaust gases in the atmosphere. Over the past 32 years that the statue stood on the station square, it was damaged more than in the past three millennia, so it was decided to move it to an indoor pavilion. This is one of the illustrative examples of the impact of pollutants on historical and cultural monuments.
By the way *
Furniture
Individual restorers, under the influence of commercial interests, can remake, modify old furniture, to make it, perhaps, more attractive, more “stylish”. They thus become falsifiers. As is known from the history of artistic furniture of the 18th - 19th centuries, this approach existed in the second half of the 19th century. And at present this path is not excluded - the influence of the customer is too great. This is evidenced by numerous fakes in antique stores. From there they end up in the homes of inexperienced collectors.
http://art-con.ru
legkoe-delo.ru
1. Straightening a warped board. | ARTconservation
The board intended for parquet must first be straightened. Knowing the property of wood to bend under the influence of moisture, it should be used in combination with mechanical action. If the board has not been impregnated with any moisture-resistant substances and absorbs moisture, the situation is simpler. If the wood is not “prone to drink,” then some layer of it that inhibits moisture absorption will have to be removed by scraping and even planing, depending on how significant the obstacle is.
23. Leveling a warped painting using blades 
24. Lattice clamp When this is done (of course, these actions are permissible only after the paint layer has been strengthened, if it is in poor condition), the picture is placed on a flat, strong table face down, with some kind of fabric placed under it to protect the texture. Cotton wool soaked warm water, wipe the board generously enough so that after the water has been absorbed by the board, the surface remains wet. After this, even bars are laid and a load is placed on them (iron, weights, pieces of marble, etc.). The load should not be too heavy, otherwise it may have an excessively rapid effect and damage the work. Always remembering that “arcs are bent with patience and not suddenly,” one should not rush. As the load acts, moistening should be repeated.
You can also use this technique: cover the moistened area with a wet cloth, place the same weights and, as it releases moisture to the wood, resume wetting. The advantage of this technique is that the material gradually and constantly moistens the wood, but it is not so convenient to observe the condition of the board.
To straighten the board, a system of pressing with blades is sometimes used. various points boards. Above the lying picture, at some distance from it, place two or three wooden bars attached to the table. Wooden or cork pads and blades of the required size are placed between the picture board and the bars, which are lightly “beaten” with a hammer from time to time. Blades must be installed in various parts boards, both tightly fitting to the table (so that they cannot rise and contribute to cracking of the board), and raised ones, those that must be straightened. Schematically it will look like shown in Fig. 23.
A more mechanized device for fixing warped boards is called a “lattice clamp” (Fig. 24).
It resembles an ordinary wooden harrow, in which, instead of teeth, wooden screws act in the bars, like our ordinary clamps. The entire structure is placed above the table and firmly fixed on it, forming, as it were, a common machine. This machine is very convenient to use, as it allows you to press in different places on the board placed under the grate. In this case, the pressure is applied very smoothly (the hand feels the screw) and at the same time the pressure force can be adjusted. In addition to straightening warped areas, this machine is an excellent press for duplicating boards in a number of other restoration works. The picture placed under the grate, as it straightens, is pressed more and more against the trunk until, finally, it “spreads out” on it.
Leveling out warpage is a rather complex operation, and therefore the most important thing is gradualism. You shouldn’t waste time on this - the main thing is good result, and it can be achieved no earlier than in a few days (8-10 or more). After correcting the warping, the board under the same presses should dry and stabilize in a new state.
Original source:
Painting restoration techniques. E.V.Kudryavtsev, M., 2002
art-con.ru
| Method 3: using an iron and sunlight Method three: pressure Wood can warp when exposed to moisture and heat. Additional exposure to heat and moisture from the opposite side of the sheet can help level the surface. Small "waves" in wood can be corrected using only moisture and heat; complex warps may require extra pressure. StepsMethod 1 of 3: Using an Iron
Method 2 of 3: Sunlight
Method 3 of 3: Method three: pressure
You will needUsing an iron
Using sunlight
Using pressure
|
ves-mir.3dn.ru
How to straighten a board
Wood is very popular for interior decoration, as it has a number of very useful properties. This material retains heat perfectly, does not emit any harmful substances and is an environmentally friendly natural material. Now lumber can be delivered to you directly to the construction site. But you need to take into account that such boards can fail, since they perfectly allow moisture to pass through. And when the board dries, it will deform in any case. Unfortunately, such cases occur everywhere, so you need to know what to do in this situation. To straighten the board you will need:
Parquet sanding machine;
Electric planer;
Plane.
Instructions.
1. If the boards are in small quantity, then you should plan them using a hand plane. It is necessary to fix the board motionless, and then carefully remove all irregularities from the surface. Here it is worth considering the following: if the sole of the tool is short, then it will be practically impossible to avoid the wavy unevenness of the board. Therefore, it is better to purchase a plane with a long sole.
2. If there is a lot of lumber, then it is worth using an electric planer - this is the easiest way to straighten the board, fit it to right size and give it a smooth look. An electric planer, unlike its manual counterpart, does not require any special skills. It has a wide platform and a comfortable design - this helps to avoid the appearance of wavy irregularities. It is necessary to firmly fix the board and remove all irregularities. After this, the wide base of the electric planer will automatically move to the desired plane. And do not forget that after leveling the thickness of the boards decreases.
3. No matter how carefully you try to level the boards, you still cannot avoid further processing. When you lay uneven lumber on the floor, you need to pull all the boards close to each other and screw them to the joists using self-tapping screws. After installation, the floor, as a rule, will look like a “herringbone”, since the areas that did not fall under the joists and were not fastened with self-tapping screws will bend. In order to fix this disadvantage, it is necessary to sand the floor surface. This needs to be done using a parquet sanding machine, which you can either buy or rent. If you can’t cope on your own, it’s better to invite a specialist.
Note.
You should not expect good results if the boards were initially crooked or misaligned. Laying a wooden floor means re-flooring it after a year. After this time, the boards dry out and adapt to environment and acquire their permanent form. After this, you need to go over the entire floor again with a sanding machine.
kvartirakrasivo.ru
How to straighten a board | Production of seals and profiles
31.10.2013
Wood is very popular when decorating rooms because it has many useful properties. This material retains heat perfectly, does not emit any harmful substances at all, and at the same time is an environmentally friendly natural material. But it is worth considering that such boards can seriously fail, since they allow moisture to pass through well. And when the board is completely dry, it will definitely become deformed. We will also tell you where double beds are sold at low prices.
Instructions
1. If there are small quantities of boards, then they need to be planed with a hand plane. You need to fix the board motionless, and then carefully remove absolutely all irregularities from the surface.
2. If there is a large amount of lumber, then you need to use an electric planer - this is the easiest way to straighten the board, completely adjust it to a certain size and at the same time give it a smooth look. An electric planer, unlike its simple analogue, does not require any special skills at all. It has a fairly wide platform and a very comfortable design - this completely helps to avoid the appearance of all wavy irregularities. It is necessary to firmly fix the board and remove absolutely all irregularities. After this, the entire wide base of the electric planer itself will be able to move to the desired plane. And do not forget that after leveling the thickness of the boards is completely reduced.
3. No matter how carefully you try to level all the boards, you will still not be able to avoid all further processing. When you completely lay uneven lumber on the floor, you should pull all the boards close together and screw them to the joists with self-tapping screws. After laying, the floor will often look exactly like a “herringbone”, since areas that did not fall under the joists at all and were not fixed with self-tapping screws will completely bend. To completely correct this defect, it is worth completely sanding the floor surface. This must be done using a parquet sanding machine, which you can either purchase or rent.
Place the board on the concrete surface. The room should be cool and dry.
Place another piece of lumber parallel to the deformed part. It should be placed between two even boards of the same size.
In some cases, it is possible to lay lumber with so-called “mirror” deformation.
The structure is secured with clamps. The curved piece is laid with the deformation down. If the board is curved in an arc, then the protruding side turns upward.
Treat the wood with a steam cleaner and place a weight evenly on its surface.
If you are straightening a long board, additional weights are placed at its ends. The result is checked after 3 days.
If unsuccessful, the procedure is repeated.
Straightening a wooden board
To straighten a wooden board, you need the following tools:
- Parquet sander;
- Electric and manual plane.
First of all, you need to secure the board motionless. After this, begin to carefully remove all surface defects from the wood.
When choosing a plane, pay attention to the fact that the sole of the plane must be long. A planer with a short surface will in any case leave unevenness on the wood.
If there is not much lumber, you can get by with a hand plane; if you have a lot of wood, you will have to use an electric one. Its wide sole and comfortable design will almost independently level the surface of the board.
Please note that this treatment reduces the thickness of the lumber.
If wooden boards are intended for laying on the floor, then all defects on the front surface of the boards are eliminated before installation. Otherwise, in about a year the boards will completely dry out and become completely deformed.
If you start trying to sew crooked boards onto the floor, then in any case they need to be laid tightly board to board and additionally screwed together using self-tapping screws.
In the case of such installation, the floor will in any case need to be carefully sanded with a parquet sander.
In order to save money, you can not purchase tools, but rent them.
A tree, like any other natural material, are characterized by many disadvantages that worsen technical properties wood or limiting the possibilities of its practical use. One of these defects is deformation - warping that occurs during sawing, drying or storage. Carpenter from the USA G. Rogowski tells how to fix warped boards using woodworking machines.
Board defects. When wood dries and ages, it is subject to various deformations: 1 - longitudinal warping - curvature along the length in a plane perpendicular to the face; 2 - transverse warping appears as transverse bending along the width of the front side of the board (if there is noticeable transverse warping, spread the board into narrow strips; if the defect is eliminated by jointing and planing, you will get a very thin board); 3 - wingedness: if the board is weakly twisted, it can be joined with adjacent boards or panels; if the twist is strong, the board will have to be cut into short sections to use it; 4 - longitudinal curvature along the edge in a plane parallel to the face; With such a defect, it is irrational to cut a board with straight and parallel edges, since a large amount of wood will be wasted.
Cracking. It can occur anywhere on the board, but more often occurs at the ends of the boards (top photo). This is the result of drying too quickly. Cracks can be found everywhere, although they are more likely to appear at the ends of the boards. They can also appear in the middle of the board (photo in the middle). Internal cracks can be detected by cross cutting.
I deal with boards as follows. First, I determine which boards can be used for certain products or parts for them. Then I saw them to length with an allowance of 25 mm and band saw I unravel with an allowance of 3 mm in width. I mill and plan workpieces with an allowance of 3 mm in thickness. At this stage I identify serious defects and do not try to get perfectly straight edges. After processing the workpieces, I put the boards aside for several days so that the internal stresses appear. After exposure, I process the boards finally - I give them rectangular shape and cut it to size.
As a rule, the detected defects are the result of what was done to the boards before sale. When wood dries (even under ideal conditions), it deforms -
It should also be taken into account that most unfinished boards have cracks at the ends. They arise due to the fact that during drying, moisture comes out faster through the end of the board than from the face. Therefore, before drying, I paint over the ends of fresh boards, and when purchasing, I choose boards slightly longer than the required size.
Boards can also crack in the middle. As a rule, the cracks are narrow (up to 3 mm). In boards that have dried very quickly, significant internal stresses can develop, leading to the formation of a network of so-called “drying cracks.”
ki" or one large crack running along the entire length of the board. “Shrinkage cracks” can only be found by carefully examining the face of the board.
A small section with cracks can be cut out and used for firewood. But some craftsmen fill the cracks with epoxy glue or hammer them in with wedges and put the board to use.
LONGITUDINALLY WARNED BOARD
To determine whether there is longitudinal warping, I “shoot” my eye along the edge. In the product, boards with transverse warping are best used for short parts. When “shooting” I note flat areas pencil. Then I saw the board crosswise into short sections and, to get a horizontal surface, planed them, placing them on the planer table with the convex side up. For planing the front side, I set the planing depth to a small one (about 0.8 mm). The machine will first remove the wood from the ends. I don’t put too much pressure on the board, otherwise in some places it can be bent and as a result it will not be planed flat and even.
Longitudinal warping along the layer. If you need short boards, longitudinal warping is not very bad. You can always cut short sections from a long board and plan them. But for products with long length you need long boards. In this case, I choose a workpiece thick enough to get a part of the required thickness when jointing.
To do this, I place the board with the concave side down on the planer table across the cutting head and plane it. I press the board evenly and don’t let it hang down. I set the gouging depth to about 0.6 mm (even for gru-
bykh blanks). With a greater planing depth, there is more vibration, which reduces the accuracy and cleanliness of processing.
When planing high places, I place a board with a hump on the planer table and press on the hanging end. With this I slightly raise the end of the board that passes over the cutting head. I feed the board forward so that the knives begin to plan the hump. Then I transfer the weight to the part of the board being processed so that it does not push away from the head and plan the hump in several passes. In the end, I plan the entire front surface of the board.
If you come across a board with curled fiber (often happens near knots),
To reduce the likelihood of rips, before planing I lightly moisten the fibers with a wet rag and remove less than 0.8 mm per pass.
TRANSVERSE BOARD
The amount of transverse deflection can be determined by placing a ruler across the board.
Transverse deformation - curvature along the width. The reason for transverse warping is, as a rule, different humidity levels on the front surfaces of the board (the drier side shrinks, the wetter side expands.) I determine this defect by placing a ruler across the surface of the board.
To eliminate such a defect, I place the board with the concave side on the planer and, having set a small cutting depth, plan it in several passes. I set the planing depth in accordance with the deflection of the board.
To eliminate lateral warping, I place the board with the convex side up on the planer. First, the machine will remove the wood along the edges of the face.
If the lateral warpage is large, the board may be too thin.
TWISTED BOARD
Winging is a spiral curvature along the length. Twisting -. the worst thing that can happen. I determine it using straightening rods by placing a board on the lid of the workbench. I lay the board face down and press into adjacent corners. If the board wobbles, it is spirally curved.
If the board has other defects besides winging, I first eliminate the curl. I place the board on the planer table and press down on the bottom corner. At the beginning of planing, I apply more force to the front of the board, then, as the cutting head passes, I accordingly change the point of application of the load towards the back of the board. I plane the board diagonally from one high corner to the other. I repeat the passes until the board is the same thickness.
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Very often in construction and renovation we are faced with the need to use various boards. Wood adds beauty and practicality to both interior and exterior decoration. However, not all of them are perfectly smooth during use, and manufacturers’ guarantees about this are not always justified. What to do and what to do in such cases? Is it possible to eliminate defects irrevocably, and how can this be achieved? We will discuss this today in our article.
Ways to combat curvature
So, if you are an expert in this field of knowledge and are not used to giving up under any circumstances, then do not be clouded in this case either. A simple plane will help you here, with which you can plan a dry board fixed in a stationary state. Pay attention to the length of the sole of such a tool, since a short plane will not be able to eliminate such a defect. Thus, you will get a completely flat edged board without much effort. If there are few boards, then a manual planer will help cope with this task.
If there is a mountain of materials in front of you, then use an electric planer, since the back end is more difficult here. This requires endurance and patience, and without special carpentry skills you will get by quite well.
Fix such a board and slowly remove the warped part of it. Thanks to the wide base of the plane, you will be able to feel the exit to a flat surface. It should be remembered that such a process will reduce the thickness of the boards. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make the material absolutely even, therefore, when laying the boards on the floor when installing it, try to do it closely, securing it with self-tapping screws. After this, sanding will consolidate the result. This is where a scraping machine will come in handy; you don’t have to buy it, but you can rent it, which will help you save on costs.
The second option for correcting uneven board surfaces is to follow the simple laws of physics - the action of weight. Stack the boards using special spacers to prevent them from touching each other. Place heavy things on top, say barrels of water. All this should be placed in the barn, where the window will be open and the heat gun will be turned on. This method will help you save the thickness of the boards, but the effect of this procedure is not always justified.
Causes of curvature
It should be noted that the result of any method of dealing with crooked boards depends on the cause of such a violation. If the floor was laid incorrectly or the curvature was the result of wet boards, then simple leveling will not bring long-lasting results. In addition, you will need to dismantle the cavity under the boards, dry it and set up a ventilation system, only then will leveling the boards make sense.
Thus, there are several ways out of the current situation and their result will be positive if you take a comprehensive approach to solving the issue. Good luck!
