Do-it-yourself ventilation in a frame bath. Types and purpose of ventilation in a log bath. Video - Procedure for assembling external ventilation grilles

The steam room design is such that it maintains a constant heat, and the air should be moist, saturated with water droplets. But in indoors With such climatic conditions, mold will certainly grow, and combustion processes will also be disrupted due to the lack of oxygen, not to mention the fact that people inside will have nothing to breathe. Therefore, it is necessary to design ventilation in the bathhouse. We will talk about it in this article.

Is a ventilation system necessary?

When building a steam room, novice builders try to fit all slats and lamellas as tightly as possible, thereby ensuring the absence of temperature losses. This is actually true, but if you do not leave natural openings or artificially created outlets, then significant smoke is possible if the stove runs on wood or coal. Any fuel leaves traces of combustion. Carbon monoxide in high concentrations will lead to loss of consciousness and the possibility of death, especially if the people in the room are steamed, with unstable pressure, and dilated blood vessels.

Required for the following tasks:

• creating the necessary microclimate;
• ventilation and drying of wood to prevent mold or mildew from occurring;
• removal of carbon dioxide, there are people in the steam room, so a constant supply of fresh air is necessary;
• promoting the combustion process, for which oxygen is important;
• eliminating unpleasant odors;
• preserving the slats and shelves in their original form.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system in the bathhouse

The entire ventilation network can be divided into natural, which is located in the walls, roof and foundation and is laid at the beginning of construction, and forced, which is activated only when using the steam room.

Both types work as follows: waste oxygen is displaced and the space is filled with fresh air. The flow has two ends - inflow and outflow, respectively, you need at least two holes located according to the rule: inlet hoods are lower than outflow hoods.

Another nuance of the operating principle is that all the gas is taken from where it goes. That is, if communication occurs with the street, then everything should go there. Similarly - if in next room, which is also possible. If the inlet and outlet are at different temperature conditions, then the formation of a flow will not work. However, it is recommended to supply/exhaust air from the street, since even in the waiting room the air will be humid and insufficiently enriched with oxygen.

Proper ventilation in the steam room

When designing a building, you immediately need to calculate where the shafts will be located and what diameter they will be. And the holes themselves and the dampers are placed on them directly after facing with lamellas. There are 4 types:

• Finnish - 130mm inflow, 100mm exhaust.
• Swedish - 100mm inflow, 80mm exhaust.
• Russian - 100mm inflow, 100mm exhaust.

The most common solution, unfortunately, is the absence ventilation system.

The size of the holes directly depends on what you want to get in the end: a Russian steam room or a sauna.

Let's look at an example of a calculation. If the steam room is 3 m by 1.5 m with a height of 2.5 m, that is, approximately 10-11 m3, you need a 20 kW stove. In this case it is better to use natural type air exchange - with an air inlet 10 cm from the floor at a distance of 30 cm from the stove, and a diagonal outlet - under the shelves at a height of 80 cm.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account: from under the lining the valve operates only in the closed position or in the open position. It should not be adjusted, as it is made airtight, otherwise the steam will escape. Both outlets do not need to have the same radius, but if more efficient and faster circulation is needed, the first one can be made a little larger or two valves installed in different places. It is strictly forbidden to make it smaller than the supply unit. This is against safety regulations.

It is imperative to install valves on the ventilation holes, which will seal hermetically to the opening when closed - at the time of kindling and heating the steam room. In winter, these doors will be half closed, because the greater the temperature difference, the more air circulates. The hoods should be at the top, and the inflow should be at the bottom. This will allow oxygen to ventilate naturally. The most popular option today: 100 mm – inflow, 80 mm – exhaust.

Types of ventilation

Some 5 years ago, no one spoke about the ventilation system in the bathhouse; moreover, many argued that it was not needed in the bathhouse. A window is enough. Times have changed, and now everyone is in favor of ventilation in the bathhouse. There is forced and natural. The chosen option depends on the area of ​​the steam room, climatic conditions, and also on the wishes of the owner.

Natural

It works on temperature differences and differences atmospheric pressure inside and outside. This is a very effective and long-used method. There is a nuance for arranging such circulation in the steam room. In the heated room itself, due to the natural laws of physics, it is difficult to provide uniform heat. Typically, the higher you go, the hotter it is, and the floors can stay quite cold. The builder’s task is to think through a system so that a draft does not blow through the feet, and unbearable heat does not accumulate on the ceiling. This can be achieved by dividing the flows into two or three hoods.

Forced

This is an electronic control that depends on the temperature. You can turn the fresh air supply on and off as desired. You can control using a digital device how many degrees should be maintained throughout the entire time of the procedure, as well as what humidity the system needs to be adjusted to.

Typically, such complexes are created for commercial purposes, so they are much more expensive than elements for natural outflow, and installation can only be carried out by specialists.

One of the main disadvantages of using electronic systems– this is the probability of leaving the fan on, which can lead to a fire in the wiring and a fire.

Combined

At the time of buying electrical device Please ensure that they have maximum protection for all wires and electronics from moisture.

How to make ventilation in a bathhouse through special vents

These are gratings made in the walls at the level of the floor (20 cm from it) and the ceiling. In this case, you should achieve the maximum distance from each other; this can be achieved if you mount them diagonally, for example, install one between the door and the stove, the second on the opposite wall.

Elements for installing a circulation system, as well as chimneys and tanks for a Russian steam room, can be ordered from Ferrum distributors, who are represented throughout Russia. A wide selection and quality of products will help you build a bath complex with your own hands using Ferrum products. can be viewed on the website.

Where to place the cold air vent

It is located below. You can create it in the wall, but then at the design stage it is necessary to lay a pipe or shaft that will lead inside. It should be taken into account that fresh air will come from the adjacent room, and, therefore, it should not go out into the street, but into the same room. There is a minus - usually the shelves are installed opposite the entrance structure, and the circulation is felt by everyone present.

Another option involves installing a vent under the sun loungers. In many ways, this is the optimal location - it doesn’t show through and doesn’t spoil the appearance. But it can be difficult to reach it in order to adjust the position of the damper. In such cases, during the bath procedure, the upper outflow doors are moved, and then both are opened for ventilation.

And another common and winning option is to place the inflow behind the stove. This simultaneously promotes circulation and heating of the coals. But there are several “buts” - sometimes the stove is installed in a wall, then there is simply no way to organize a damper there. And one more thing - due to the intense heat, plastic doors will melt here and wooden ones may start to catch fire, so only metal ones will do.

The output outflow is simpler; it can be mounted:

• in the ceiling, but then you will have to make an additional box for the outlet through the roof, because if the wet steam is in the attic, the wooden rafters will rot;
• in the wall - the best option; it is laid at the time of construction of the building.

How to make ventilation in a steam bath: hole sizes

The exact size of the vent depends on humidity, temperature differences, minimum and maximum values. Experience suggests that the most optimal parameters are 10-15 cm; if desired, you can increase the outflow diameter, but flow-through systems cannot be larger.

In this case, it is necessary to install dampers. It is with their help that you will achieve the required radius when weather conditions change

A common misconception is that a person does not have enough oxygen to breathe if the supply is too small. This is not true. For an ordinary person, one cubic meter of air is enough for 1.5 hours.

Floor ventilation device

Why is this important: a number of factors influence a wooden floor covering; moisture comes from below, from the soil and foundation, and from above from steam. Plus condensation accumulates. Such conditions are favorable for the onset of rotting and for the spread of fungi and mold.

Installing vents under the floorboards is considered the most effective. In this case, there is no draft and the system can be used during bath procedures. Another plus is that ventilation occurs as if from the inside. That is, when ventilating, the upper part of the floor covering dries, and when the hood is running, the lower part dries.

To make this as productive as possible, when installing a drain for water from the steam room, move it to the side so that moisture does not spread under the floorboards.

Ventilation of the bathhouse foundation

If you already take care of this when laying the foundation, then you will not have rot and mold in the building. Vents with a diameter of 110 mm or more should be installed on all four sides. This will ensure acceptable circulation even if the bath complex is located in the middle of other buildings. It is best to lay these pipes opposite each other.

Ventilation of various auxiliary rooms

The remaining rooms should also have their own circulation.

Attic

A gable window is not enough, as steam often enters this space and can have a negative impact on the rafters. It is optimal to arrange the inflow under the roof canopy, and the outflow at the ridge. So the flows will pass from bottom to top from both sides.

Washing

To organize air exchange, forced ventilation is most often used, which directs flows towards the vestibule.

Ground floor

Owners of private houses can use the basement to install a bathhouse. This is possible, but it requires costs. Now the integrity of the entire house depends on the safety and efficiency of the circulation system. Already at the design stage of the building, it is necessary to provide for the distance between the walls and the insulation, otherwise condensation from the temperature difference will accumulate on the surface.

It is necessary to create forced ventilation, since natural ventilation cannot be provided due to the impossibility of installation near the floor (after all, it is located underground). We recommend entrusting this issue to professionals.

Shower room

Taking into account the fact that in the remaining rooms there is already an inflow and outflow of oxygen, here it is only enough to design ventilation from fans in the ceiling or at the top of the wall so that the unpleasant odors of dampness come out. The same should be done if the bathhouse complex has a toilet.

Waiting room

Here you should also take special care of the circulation of air flows, since due to the close proximity to the steam room, a strong temperature difference and condensation forms on the walls in the room. The supply and exhaust option is suitable in the same way. You can also install windows that allow for quick ventilation.

How to arrange ventilation in a bathhouse and steam room - calculation of the scheme

We have already mentioned the standard value: 1 cubic meter of space requires 24 cubic centimeters of bends. When choosing pipes, they often choose pipeline pipes - they are inexpensive and effective, but we recommend assembling such a system from Ferrum stainless chimneys; they have a long service life and do not deteriorate from constant interaction with moisture. The standard diameter is 10 centimeters. So, the cross-sectional area is 78.5 cm2. One such box is enough for 3.27 m3 of room volume.

We calculate the number of cubic meters. Let's assume that the steam room has dimensions of 2 by 2 m2, the ceilings are also 2 m high. Multiply everything, we get 8 m3. Divide this by 3.27 = 2.45. Round up to three. As a result, you need to organize 3 boxes with a diameter of 10 cm for the entire steam room.

Ventilation device

There are several solutions:

• The location of the window next to the stove or under it. There should be at least 25-35 cm above the floor. In this case, the flow moves below, then rises along the opposite wall.
• Both holes are on the same surface, which is not recommended, but does occur. Then be sure to install a fan on the hood. This is true when the steam room has only one wall facing the street, and the rest are adjacent to residential areas.
• Gaps in the flooring, if you have a multi-layer leaky floor, can attract air, let it pass into the space under the covering, and then return it back up again. This ensures good ventilation of the floorboards.
• If the inflow is located opposite the stove, then it will only work if the heating is working.

All these types are presented schematically in the picture:

In the article we told you how to properly make ventilation in a bathhouse, showed diagrams and explained the structure of the steam room. Design your own bath complex together with high-quality products from Ferrum. On the website you will find chimneys and components for arranging a bathhouse. Soak up the fun with Ferrum.

Useful videos

Baths have always been famous for their healing properties. But to obtain a healing effect, it is necessary not only to listen to the advice of doctors, but also to organize the correct ventilation system in your own bathhouse.

Those who have been to classic village bathhouses made of wood are unlikely to remember the presence of paired exhaust vents in such pairs. In fact, they are not there. After all, a small amount of fresh air entering the bathhouse from cracks in the floor, window or doorway, can meet the needs of 2-3 people.

But a bathhouse designed for a large capacity, and especially a brick one, must be equipped with a ventilation system to fulfill the following important points:

• the supply of fresh air, which prevents the accumulation of carbon dioxide in the steam room and preserves the health of people in the bathhouse;
• air circulation, which allows you to dry the room after bath procedures. This prevents the appearance of unpleasant odors in the bathhouse, the growth of mold fungi and helps to increase the service life of the building without the need to replace wood elements;
• uniform distribution of heated air in steamy room baths

Moreover, if the hood is designed correctly, it should not lead to the following unpleasant consequences:

• to a drop in temperature in the steam room during bath procedures;
• violation of the correct stratification of air by temperature - the coolest layer should be at the bottom;
• removing clean air from the steam room, not saturated with carbon dioxide.

In a steam room with good ventilation it is easy to breathe and relaxing is pleasant

How does bath ventilation work?

It is correct to provide a bathhouse ventilation system at the construction stage, because it is at this moment that you can make the hood correctly and independently with the least labor and material costs. In addition, the process of making holes in the finished structure can lead to a decrease in the strength of the walls.

Air exchange in the bath is ensured by two holes.

1. The supply hole is located at the bottom and provides fresh air into the bathhouse.
2. The exhaust vent is located at the top on the wall opposite the supply vent. Thanks to the hood, exhaust air is removed from the steam room. However, if the hole is located very close to the ceiling, then hot air is quickly removed from the room, which leads to a decrease in the temperature of the steam room.

This design allows you to adjust the direction of the air flow. At the moment when the bathhouse is heated, all three holes are closed. When people steam, the inlet and bottom exhaust vents are open. After bath procedures, all ventilation is open, which allows the bath to dry well.

Ventilation in the bathhouse can be mechanical. In it, the air in the steam room circulates thanks to the injection equipment. In a more complex and expensive version, the air supply process is monitored by special devices that, if necessary, start the ventilation system. The use of a mechanical hood allows you to place holes on any of the walls, as well as correct errors in organizing natural ventilation.

In any case, to ensure air exchange in the bathhouse, there are several exhaust systems that differ from each other in the location of the holes.

Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with a stove - air conditioning

Methods for installing ventilation in a bathhouse

We will describe some of the most popular and simple ways arrangement of ventilation in the steam room. They can be either using fans or carried out completely naturally.

Method 1

This is the one described above natural ventilation scheme with one supply and two outlets. The entrance hole in such a system is made in the wall immediately behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 m from the floor surface.

To connect the outlets to each other, a box is used, which is made of wooden boards; a corrugated pipe about one meter long is laid in it. The holes themselves are equipped with plugs that allow you to regulate air flows, as described above. In addition to plugs, you will also need grilles to prevent insects and rodents from entering the bathhouse through the ventilation.

This system is suitable for small baths.

Method 2

This is another simple and most common scheme for ventilating the bath space. In it, the inlet opening is located behind the stove just above the floor (about 0.3 m). The hood is located at the same height, but on the opposite wall and is equipped with a fan that forcibly extracts exhaust air.

Method 3

Method 3 is somewhat similar to the previous one. Only the air inlet is arranged at a height of half a meter from the heater, and the outlet is slightly above the floor (about 0.2 m). The hood is equipped with a fan.

Method 4

Method 4 is used for baths in which the steam room has only one wall facing the street. In this system, the air inlet and outlet openings are located on one wall opposite the stove. The air enters the lower hole, located at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exits into the upper one, which is located 30 cm below the ceiling and is equipped with a fan.

Clean air enters the room, encounters the furnace, heats up, rises and is directed out through the outlet.

Method 5

Method 5 is suitable for baths in which there are small gaps of half a centimeter between the floor boards. The inlet opening is located behind the stove. Cooled and exhaust air descends to the floor and exits through cracks in the underground, where there is an exhaust hole in the basement wall connected to a ventilation pipe that exhausts air flows above the roof.

Method 6

If the stove in your steam room is heated for the entire period of operation of the bath, then the ash can itself perform the function of ventilation, or rather, an exhaust hood. In this case, you only need a hole for air flow, which is located near the floor opposite the stove. The blower should be slightly lower than the finished floor.

Step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation

When arranging a bathhouse with ventilation, it is important to observe the following conditions:

• if the bathhouse is adjacent to a residential building, then the air flow should go in the direction from the housing to the steam room;
• the exhaust hole is connected to a box or pipe, which must be installed above the roof of the bathhouse;
• the hood should not be placed above the shelves to prevent drafts from affecting steamed people.

In general, the ventilation installation process can be described as follows.

Step 1

In selected locations, inlet and outlet openings are provided at the construction stage or prepared after construction, the cross-section of which should be 10-20 cm.

Step 2

Equipped with boxes made of metal, plastic or wood with prepared openings.

Step 3

If necessary, install an exhaust fan.

Note! For baths, it is necessary to use ventilation equipment made of heat-resistant material and with a protection class of at least IP-44.

Step 4

Mounted on the grille holes and plugs.

Step 5

The outlet is connected to a pipe that is led above the roof.

Note! In addition to ventilation of the room, it is necessary to ensure air circulation under the floor. To do this, at the construction stage, holes are made in the base on opposite sides, which are covered with bars to protect against rodents.

Here are some simple ways you can arrange bath ventilation, providing long term steam room service and a comfortable stay in it.

Video - Ventilation diagram in the bathhouse

Floor ventilation in a bathhouse is an urgent need. Constant dampness of the flooring will inevitably lead to rotting of the material, even with a concrete base. And floors with areas of rot, mold, and fungi become a source of various infections and unpleasant odors. And the durability of such an element will be short. To ventilate the floor of a bathhouse means increasing its service life without repairs and eliminating unhealthy effects on human body and ensure the comfort of the bath procedure.

Rot on the floor in the bathhouse indicates a lack of ventilation

Features of the problem

The floor in the bathhouse is in extreme conditions. Active moistening of the material occurs both from below (from the ground) and from above during the operation of the establishment. Particularly difficult conditions are created in the steam room, where saturated heated water vapor, in contact with the floor covering, cools and condenses. The resulting water penetrates into the material, creating a favorable environment for various pests. The destructive process is accelerated by increased temperature, which at the floor surface can be 30-40 degrees.

Not much better conditions and in the washing department. Here, streams of water (both warm and cold) pour onto the floor from shower stalls and various watering containers. Moreover, water is mixed with detergents, which increases the aggressiveness of the effect.

A more favorable environment occurs in the waiting room and rest room. However, even in these rooms one should not discount the possibility of steam from the steam room entering through an open door, as well as moisture from wet feet.

Ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse prevents the appearance of fungus and rot, and also draws out excess steam

On the soil side, moisture is caused by natural conditions. The most dangerous thing is the presence of highly located groundwater and rising water levels during prolonged precipitation, snow melting and flood situations. In principle, drainage systems and layers of waterproofing in the floor structure are intended to protect against the effects of this moisture, but they cannot completely eliminate the penetration of moisture from below.

nuance! Do-it-yourself ventilation of floors in a bathhouse is considered an effective way to combat the problem of dampness.

By providing an influx of fresh air, it speeds up the drying of the material during the period between bath procedures. It prevents condensation from accumulating on the surface, prevents microorganisms from actively developing, and removes polluted air from the room.

Principles of ventilation organization

Ventilation of the floor in bath rooms can be carried out various methods. One of the most important elements of the system is the creation of ventilation spaces in the floor structure, which eliminates the accumulation of moisture inside, between the layers. The main system can be based on several characteristic designs: ventilation under the floor in the bathhouse, general ventilation of the bathhouse, blowing with warm air.

Structurally, any room ventilation must include an inlet for fresh air mass and an outlet for polluted air. To achieve this, all bath rooms are equipped with inlet and outlet ventilation openings (vents). In addition, if necessary, air ducts (air channels), dampers, and protective grilles are installed to ensure air supply at the right time and in the right direction.

Depending on the nature of the air flow, this process can be natural or artificial (forced). The first option is considered classic, in which the air flow moves spontaneously in accordance with the laws of convection, i.e. as a result of a temperature or pressure gradient. When such ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse occurs, the flow diagram has characteristic appearance(Fig. 1).

Nuance! With a natural design, the entrance vent should be located as low as possible (under or near the floor).

The air, heating up, will rise upward, and this is where the outlet should be located. It is not recommended to ventilate the floor in the bathhouse through the attic, i.e. through a vent in the ceiling. A closed space is formed in the attic, where all the harmful emissions gradually accumulate, which can then return through the hole to the bathhouse, but in a concentrated state.

Figure 1. Natural ventilation occurs due to the difference in air pressure in the steam room

Forced ventilation bath floor is based on the use of special equipment that creates controlled air flow in the required direction. It is possible to use such varieties artificial ventilation:

1. Exhaust type: the influx of fresh air from outside occurs naturally, and the outlet is provided by an exhaust fan that forcibly draws out the exhaust air mass.
2. Supply type: fresh air is forcedly supplied using an inlet air fan, while it is removed from the bathhouse naturally through an appropriate vent.
3. The supply and exhaust type combines the listed technologies, combining forced air supply and air outflow.
4. The general exchange system is a complicated version of the previous ventilation. A unified air circulation scheme is created using air ducts, which makes it possible to control the volume, direction and speed of air flow.

There is an option for exhaust ventilation through the floor in the bathhouse to the outside

System design features

When arranging floor ventilation, it is necessary to take into account a number of specific conditions. The efficiency and comfort of the system is determined by the fulfillment of the following requirements:

• preventing the floor from cooling during the bath procedure, it is especially important to ensure that there are no drafts (should not pull on the legs);
• the volume of air mass must be sufficient to complete the assigned tasks;
• fast, optimal drying should be ensured, especially in the presence of wooden floors, when dampness is unacceptable, but excessive drying, which can cause cracking of the wood, is also bad;
• Ventilation should be installed at the bathhouse construction stage, when vents of the required shape and size are created, pipes are laid, and distribution channels (gaps) are formed.

When providing fresh air ventilation through the floor, it is necessary to ensure that cold air is not drawn across the floor.

The quality and characteristics of ventilation depend, first of all, on the location of the vents. When choosing a location for them, it is necessary to take into account climatic conditions (humidity and air temperature), wind conditions (“wind rose”), the landscape of the site, the presence of polluting sources, as well as internal factors - the type and location of the stove, the design of the doors, the presence of windows and vents.

Most often, the inlet for floor ventilation is located in the following places, at 3 different levels:

• lowest level: in the foundation or under the floor covering;
• directly under the stove or at the level of its base;
• in the wall at a height of 35-45 cm from the floor (best behind the stove).

Most common options

Most often, when organizing floor ventilation in a bathhouse, the following are used: simple solutions:

1. You can ventilate a bathhouse under the floor by creating an air draft under the floor covering. To do this, the inlet hole is equipped below the level of the upper flooring, and the flooring itself is raised above the subfloor by 3-5 cm. A gap of 10-15 mm is left between the flooring boards.
2. Ventilation according to the Basta system. The air flow is provided under the stove, while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Under the floor, the air mass is directed through a duct lined with aluminum foil. The size of such an air duct corresponds to the size of the chimney duct. This ensures hot ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse.
3. Ventilation riser. This system is often used in a washing room. In this case, an asbestos pipe is installed, which is led outside the bathhouse roof, which creates good air draft. Such a riser is usually equipped with a deflector.

Ventilation using the Basta system in the steam room

Features of the underfloor system

Ventilation installed under the floor of the bathhouse has a number of advantages. In addition to the fact that it helps eliminate condensation and ensure drying of the floor covering, the air flow hidden below cannot cause drafts, which means the system can also be used during the bath procedure.

For efficient work ventilation under the floor, it is important to properly arrange the drainage system, i.e. permanently delete wastewater outside the bathhouse. Ventilation is ensured by installing 2 holes in the foundation. They are located on opposite walls, but not directly opposite each other. In general, the optimal option is when the air flow passes along a complex path, covering the maximum possible area. The vents are equipped with valves that allow you to regulate the fresh air supply time and flow rate. It is worth highlighting one of the types of outlet vent - a vertical hole through the entire thickness of the foundation to the ground. This channel also ensures moisture drainage.

The ventilation duct under the floor is formed by jumpers (joists), which are usually used as timber measuring 6-8 x 10-15 cm. These logs are mounted on a concrete screed, made with a slope to drain the drainage. The plank flooring is laid on top of the joists, and the boards are attached with a gap, which ensures the free flow of water. The valves on the vents open taking into account the outside air temperature. In summer they can be open constantly, but in winter active ventilation should be carried out only when there are no people in the steam room.

Installation of heated floors

One of the most comfortable and effective options is to make the heated floor in the bathhouse ventilated. To solve this problem, heated air must be directed into the ventilation ducts. In bath conditions it can be obtained using a stove. You can use a two-section pipe, which will provide ventilation for both the room and the underground. This pipe is directed through the sauna stove, and the air flow is divided in 2 directions: into the steam room and under the floor. It is advisable to equip such a system with forced exhaust.

In the dressing room of the bathhouse you can build a warm floor with ventilation

advice! A warm floor with hot air ventilation must be well insulated from the ground surface to reduce the cooling of the channel from soil water (especially in winter).

To do this, waterproofing and an effective thermal insulation layer are laid. In the system under consideration, the external flooring is applied with the boards tightly fitting to each other, without gaps. The outlet of the system is combined with the chimney, which increases draft. The inlet and outlet openings are equipped with valves.

Ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse is considered important element its arrangement, allowing to prevent rotting of the material and increase the service life of the entire structure. With the help of ventilation, you can provide warm floors, which will increase the comfort of bathing procedures. You can provide a ventilation bath system with your own hands, but for this you need to take into account the specific requirements and recommendations of specialists.

Ventilation in a bathhouse is a mandatory design element. Without full air exchange and fresh air flow, even the highest quality wooden building can become completely unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, steamers will have to enjoy such “delights” as dampness, unpleasant odor, and lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of a ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. It is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike its forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths it is generally created “on its own” - only through a suitable design of the steam room.

How does the natural ventilation system work?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection, which occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, heated air in a room always rises, and cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in a bathhouse is to provide an influx of fresh air (cold) and displace exhaust air (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the supply opening is usually located below the exhaust opening. Then the warm air rises and comes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (low pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

Vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used as hoods in a bathhouse with natural ventilation. The flow of air is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in log baths), slightly open doors, and ventilation holes. Both supply and exhaust openings (vents, vents) are equipped with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Burst ventilation - ventilation

In small Russian baths, burst ventilation is common. This is ordinary ventilation, which is performed either after bath procedures or between visits to the steam room. Burst ventilation promotes rapid air change and drying of steam room surfaces.

During burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is played by a door and a window located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after steaming (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure difference is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of burst ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove-heater with a chimney can become a driving force for ventilation. When fuel burns, exhaust air is drawn into the furnace ash pan and exits through the chimney. In order to allow fresh air to flow in, make a gap of about 5-10 mm at the bottom of the door. Or they don’t close it tightly during procedures. In log-house bathhouses, when the fire burns in the stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation by means of air outflow through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (for example, in black saunas or in a short-term oven), air change will not be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange performed through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the steaming period (ideally 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust vent is usually located under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It measures 15-20 cm and can be square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

• It is not advisable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. There is a high probability that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This excludes full air circulation, but leads to the formation of a draft.
• The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should coincide with the dimensions of the inlet opening. Or be more. If the hood dimensions deviate downward, a new fresh air will not go to the bathhouse.
• If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the size of the hood makes the supply vent larger. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 supply hole.

To ensure the flow of clean air into the steam room, an inlet opening is installed, usually 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is advisable to be near the stove so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the steaming zone already warm. The supply opening is covered with a ventilation grille so that air is drawn into the room in separate streams and not in a continuous stream.

Step-by-step installation instructions

The classic operating procedure is as follows:

1. Two holes with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm are made in the walls of the bathhouse. It is advisable to form the vents at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into the finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
2. Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In log baths, it is better to use wooden boxes made from boards.
3. A ventilation grille is placed on the supply opening, and a damper is placed on the exhaust opening. If one of the holes faces the street, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what kind of air duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

• simple device and easy installation;
• low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
• economical operation - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
• reliability - absence mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not requiring repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

• dependence of the ventilation strength on the temperature difference in the steam room and outside;
• in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings reduces the temperature in the steam room, and drafts may occur;
• smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. IN small sauna standing on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational decision. If there are no swimming pools or large washrooms inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If for some reason natural ventilation does not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can transform it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just install fans on the openings!

Ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands - diagram

A well-equipped ventilation system, all other things being equal, guarantees, firstly, a long service life of the building and finishing materials used in the arrangement of the serviced premises, and secondly, the comfort and safety of visiting the latter for the user. The issue of arranging complete and sufficiently effective ventilation is especially relevant in the bathhouse, due to the characteristic temperature and humidity conditions and additional requirements for buildings of this kind.

General requirements for ventilation in the bathhouse

Video - Requirements for ventilation in the bathhouse

Choosing the optimal type of ventilation system for servicing a bathhouse is a topic for many hours of discussion. For example, there is natural ventilation. The expenditure of money, time and effort on its arrangement is minimal - the work literally comes down to drilling holes in the walls, installing boxes/pipes and valves/grids.

Ventilation valve and grille

Ventilation grilles for baths and saunas

However, it is impossible to use natural ventilation to service all rooms of the bathhouse. Of course, it would be possible to save money, but the disadvantage of such a solution will become obvious with the arrival of the first winter: along with the influx of fresh air from the street, cold will come in, and everyone knows the combination of frosty air with humidity - everything around will simply freeze. Therefore, natural ventilation in some rooms must be combined with other existing options in other rooms of the bathhouse.

If the bathhouse is equipped with a washing room or even its own swimming pool, natural ventilation will definitely not cope with the maintenance of such premises - you will have to equip an exhaust system. And in general, the presence of a forced inflow/outflow of fresh air will be useful both for visitors to the bathhouse and for its premises. Recommendations regarding the optimal composition of the air exchange system are given in the table.

Table. Choosing a ventilation system for different rooms

Steam room, dressing room or relaxation room		Aeration should be understood as organized natural air exchange. The option is most optimally suited for use in a bathhouse: air enters from the bottom of the stove (for other rooms - 25-30 cm above the floor), exhaust is discharged through an opening in the upper part of the room. The work of air exchange is based on elementary physical laws: cold air from the street displaces warm air masses, which have less weight, to the top of the room. Aeration is ideal for use in rooms with high heat output. The presence of additional humidity contributes to an even more pronounced increase in the efficiency of the system.
Wash room, bathroom, room with swimming pool		The system is equipped with a fan and, if necessary, cleaning filters. Mechanical exhaust ventilation is ideal for use in the washroom, pool room and other wet and frequently visited areas of the bathhouse. Mechanical hood provides effective removal unpleasant odors and excess moisture, which makes the air in the serviced area safe and clean. It is impossible to use exhaust ventilation alone - air rarefaction is formed. To compensate for the vacuum, an air flow from the street or other rooms is arranged. Along with this, the presence of supply ventilation will eliminate the likelihood of drafts. The supply ventilation system can be either natural or mechanical. In combination with mechanical exhaust ventilation, it is more expedient to use a mechanical supply system, because the possibilities of natural inflow may ultimately be insufficient to compensate for the resulting rarefaction. Mechanical supply ventilation is based on a blower fan. Additionally, it can be equipped with an air heater, which will eliminate inconvenience and solve the problems of ventilation of serviced premises during the cold season. Additionally, the supplied air can be humidified or purified using appropriate devices. A mechanical system is more complex in arrangement compared to its counterpart, which operates according to the laws of physics: in addition to fans and air ducts, the system may include additional equipment and devices (diffusers, air distribution grilles, automation equipment, noise suppressors, etc.). This provides an excellent opportunity to design an air exchange system that fully meets the user’s wishes.

Natural ventilation is provided in vestibules, warehouses and other similar premises.

Regardless of the type of ventilation system chosen, the bathhouse must have conditions for simple ventilation. Install adjustable windows in all rooms, the location of which allows this to be done.

Video - Types of ventilation systems

Instructions for self-calculation of air exchange

An elementary formula is used for calculation:

W (required volume of fresh/exhaust air) = k (coefficient indicating the frequency of air exchange) x V (volume of the room served, determined by multiplying the width of the room by the length and height).

That is, first you must calculate the volume of each room and find for it the required indicator of the volume of clean air (in calculations it is usually denoted Wpr, i.e. inflow) and a similar indicator of exhaust air (denoted as Wout, outflow). In this case, multiplicity factors must be taken into account. The calculated values ​​are rounded upward - the last digit in the number must be 0 or 5.

Next, the summation of all Wpr is performed. A similar action is carried out for the found Ww. The resulting amounts are compared. If the total value of Wpr exceeds the total value of Wpr, you need to increase the exhaust volume for rooms with a minimum air exchange value, if, on the contrary, increase the inflow by the missing value. That is, at the output, the sum of all Wpr should be equal to the total value of the found Wt.

The results of the calculations will allow us to determine the optimal cross-sections of the installed air ducts and select suitable look ventilation system. Thus, there will not be any special problems with calculating the volume of premises and other related data. For greater convenience of subsequent processing, enter the found values ​​into a simple table, as in the example presented.

In the example given, the total value of Wpr is less than the sum of all found Wt by an indicator equal to 110 m3. In order for the balance to be maintained, it is necessary to ensure an influx of clean air in the missing quantity. This can only be done in the waiting room. Thus, the value of 55 m3 for the dressing room given in the table must be replaced with an indicator of 165 m3. Then the balance will be maintained.

Start calculating the air ducts to be installed and drawing up the structure of the ventilation system being installed.

The ventilation system is designed in such a way that the air moves through the installed air ducts at the following speeds:

• ≤ 5 m/s in main ducts and ≤3 m/s in existing branches – for mechanical ventilation systems;
• ≤ 1 m/sec – for air exchanges operating on a natural principle;
• 2 m/sec – for natural air exchange directly in the steam room.

When choosing the cross-section of air ducts, take into account the above indicators. As for the profile of the duct/pipe, this point is determined by the design features of the air exchange and the bath itself. For example, air ducts with a round cross-section are easier to install compared to their rectangular “counterparts,” and it is much easier to select the required connecting fittings for round air ducts.

The relationship between the diameter of the air ducts and other significant indicators is demonstrated in the following tables.

For example, we will work with round air ducts. We select the required sections according to the appropriate table, focusing on the indicators in the table Example of ventilation calculation.

The calculated air flow was 165 m3/hour. The air flow at this flow rate should move no faster than 5 m/sec. In accordance with the table above for round air ducts, we select the cross-section according to the specified data. The table value closest to ours is 221 m3/hour. The air duct cross-section is 125 mm.

Air duct with insulation Flexible ducts

In the same order, we determine the optimal sections for all branches of the system in the serviced premises, remembering that the air flow in them should move at a speed not exceeding 3 m/sec (in vestibules and storage rooms - 1 m/sec, in the steam room - 2 m/sec sec):

• steam room: calculated Ww is 60 m3/hour, which requires the installation of an air duct with a cross-section of 125 mm;
• shower room - Ww is 50 m3/hour, air moves at a speed of 3 m/sec, a 100 mm air duct is suitable;
• toilet – indicators are similar to the shower room;
• pantry, vestibule, etc. – indicators (except for air speed) are similar to shower and toilet.

Important! In the shower room (wash room, room with a swimming pool) there is an increased level of humidity. When determining the cross-section of the air duct for this room, it is necessary to make an adjustment towards increase (in this example - 125 mm).

For greater convenience, enter all the information received into the table. You can use the template below as an example.

Important note! In the table above, the exhaust volume exceeds the volume of incoming clean air. This happened for the reason that the sections were determined by the nearest flow rate, and the diameter of the air duct in the washing room was intentionally increased. In practice, such an approach will only be beneficial - the margin for outflow and inflow will not be superfluous.

SNiP 2.08.01-89. Residential buildings. File for download

SNiP 2.08.01-89

Sanitary and epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. Sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00. File for download

SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00

Construction norms and rules of the Russian Federation heating, ventilation and conditioning SNiP 41-01-2003. File for download

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

Square cross section the ventilation window is determined in accordance with the volume of the room served: 24 cm2 for every 1 m3.

All that remains is to figure out the optimal height of the ventilation holes:

• for the flow of fresh air - on average 25-30 cm above the floor (in the steam room - near the stove);
• for exhaust air outflow - approximately 15-20 cm below the ceiling, usually on the opposite wall to the supply wall.

Popular bath ventilation schemes

Only options for arranging ventilation in the steam room deserve special consideration - in the remaining rooms everything is done according to the standard scheme, for example, like this:

Air exchange in the steam room can be organized in accordance with 4 main schemes presented in the following image.

Scheme "a". The most popular option. The window for air flow is next to the stove, at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the floor. The incoming clean air gradually displaces the waste warm air upward to the opposite wall. There is an exhaust hole on it, approximately 15-25 cm below the ceiling.

Scheme "b". Both holes are on the same wall. The circuit will only work if you install an exhaust fan. Fresh air enters through the lower hole, located in the wall opposite to the stove. The air will rush in the direction of the stove, and then, covering the space of the steam room in an arc, move to the hood and be discharged outside the bathhouse.

Scheme "c". This option is suitable for steam rooms with leaking floors. The inlet hole is located as in diagram “a”. Having warmed up in the upper part of the steam room, the air descends to the floor, passes through the gaps in the plank flooring, facilitating more efficient drying of the boards, and is then discharged through an exhaust vent, usually located in another room. Exhaust can also be carried out through a separate isolated channel.

Scheme "g". Option for baths with a constantly running stove. In this case, the exhaust function is performed by the furnace ash hole. The supply window is located under the shelf, in the wall opposite to the stove. The height of the inlet opening must correspond to the height of the furnace vent. Fresh air rushes towards the stove, displacing the air masses heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling there, the air descends and is removed from the bathhouse through the ash pan.

To ensure that the air exchange system operates as efficiently and as efficiently as possible, before starting its installation, study and remember a few simple tips.

If your bathhouse has a bathroom or even a kitchen, equip them only with exhaust ventilation - this solution will eliminate the possibility of unpleasant odors spreading to other rooms. Alternatively, you can arrange it in other rooms supply ventilation, and the bathrooms should be equipped with natural exhaust - in this case, the air will move towards the bathrooms.

When calculating the performance of fans, it is recommended to reduce the total power of the supply units by 5-10% of the total capacity of the exhaust units. In this case, the exhaust air will be completely replaced by incoming air masses, and a reserve of 5-10% will compensate for the influx of air entering through windows, cracks, etc., which will allow a balance to be maintained.

In rooms with only natural ventilation, it is recommended to make opening windows - this will increase the efficiency of fresh air supply and reduce the risk of fungi, mold, rot, etc.

Important! If your bathhouse has a non-standard configuration, the design of the ventilation system will also be individual. When compiling it, the features of the composition of the premises, their design, design features and so on.

The main stages of independent installation of a ventilation system

Any ventilation system in any room is installed in approximately the same sequence. The differences are present only in the characteristics of the air duct openings and their locations, as well as the configuration of the system (mechanical, unlike natural, are supplemented with various types of devices).

For example, the following arrangement of ventilation elements can be used.

Or its slightly modified analogue, shown in the following image.

Recommendations regarding the choice of the location of each opening, the type of air exchange system for different rooms of the bath, as well as the procedure for determining the characteristics of ventilation elements, were discussed earlier.

Along with this, the procedure for arranging ventilation may vary depending on which design option you prefer. There are few solutions available:

• independent ventilation in each room. A simpler option. Work is limited to the installation of transoms, windows, fans and other necessary elements, if provided for by the project. Fans can be mounted both in windows and in separate ducts led outside through the wall;
• centralized system. A more complex option. Requires gaskets ventilation ducts. It is used mainly in private homes - in the case of a bathhouse, this option will be too expensive and labor-intensive;
• "hybrid" option. Some rooms are ventilated individually, others are combined into a joint system.

An appropriate option for use in a bathhouse is independent ventilation - the owner can choose the optimal characteristics of fans and other elements for each room, saving money, time and effort on carrying out the activities necessary to combine the channels into a single system.

Important! The location of some bathhouse rooms may not allow for independent supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to avoid laying ventilation ducts. Alternatively, the box can be placed on attic, and install the ventilation holes in the ceiling or connect them with channels installed in the walls (the option is more complicated if the installation of such channels was not provided for by the project at the construction stage of the bathhouse).

In most cases, the first option is used: ventilation pipes of the required length are led out through holes in the ceilings of the premises served and are either equipped with their own fan, if necessary (easier to implement for an untrained user, the procedure is similar to that shown in the following table), or are connected into a single circuit and connect to a common hood (may require the involvement of specialists).

Remember: maximum efficiency of the ventilation system is ensured by using the shortest and straightest air ducts possible - up to 3 m when arranging natural air exchange and up to 6 m when using electric fans.

The procedure for installing an independent ventilation system is given in the following table.

Important! The example describes instructions for arranging a mechanical ventilation system using fans. The installation procedure for natural air exchange remains almost the same: only the stages of laying wires and installing fans are excluded.

Table. Ventilation arrangement

Work stageExplanations

	The operating procedure remains the same for the supply and exhaust openings. Only the height of their arrangement and location changes ( possible options discussed earlier), as well as the type of fans used (supply or exhaust). The characteristics of the latter are selected individually, taking into account the volume of the room served, the required speed of air movement in the air ducts, the required air exchange rate, etc. – all these points were covered in the theoretical part. We arrange the holes in the following order: - outline the center and contours. We make the markings so that the resulting diameter of the hole slightly (usually a 2-3 mm gap is made) exceeds the diameter of the pipe being installed (recommendations for choosing the diameters of air ducts were given earlier); - using a puncher we make a hole in accordance with the markings. We hold the working tool horizontally, but with a slight downward tilt; - carefully take out the cut material (a hammer and chisel will help us with this), after which we carefully clean the finished hole from dirt and dust.
	The ventilation pipe (ventilation duct body) is placed in the prepared hole, but before that it (if mechanical/forced ventilation is planned) must be equipped with a fan. Useful recommendation! Initially, buy ready-made kits for arranging ventilation, including, in addition to related additions, a ventilation duct/pipe and a fan with a housing of the appropriate size - this way you will avoid difficulties at the assembly stage. The pipe with the fan is placed in the prepared hole, and the remaining cracks are filled with foam.
	The fan is an electrical device, therefore, it must be connected to the network. Let's do this while the mounting foam dries (at least 10-12 hours). The procedure is standard: - the contours of the groove for the cable are cut out in the wall using a grinder. Excess material is removed using a bumper; - a hole is prepared in the wall for installing the switch box (for example, you can use a hammer drill). The box is installed (pre-read the instructions specific to your switch). The switch itself will be mounted after finishing; - the wire is laid in the groove. To fix the cable we use alabaster; - connect the wire to the switch and the fan. First, be sure to study the connection diagram recommended by the fan manufacturer in the attached instructions, because For different devices it may differ. As an example, one of the most commonly used schemes is given.
	All that remains is to bring the entire structure into proper form. To do this we do the following: - get rid of excess dried polyurethane foam using a knife; - putty the grooves; - we install adjustable ventilation grilles on both sides of the pipe. For fastening we use self-tapping screws. If provided, at the appropriate stages of work we install additional elements (for example, an air heater, filter, etc.). Each of these devices is installed individually - we first clarify these points in the manufacturer’s instructions.

Video - Arrangement of ventilation holes

Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands - diagram

State standards for room ventilation are regulated by SNiP 41–01–2003; the document establishes the minimum rate of air exchange in rooms depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential premises, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

SNiP 41–01–2003

For a bathhouse, ventilation tasks become more complicated; it must additionally remove wet air(quick drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are times when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before small children, the elderly or large people undergo procedures. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bathhouse cools down on its own. By ventilating a room, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits the entire time people are in it.

What types of ventilation are there and how to calculate them

Ventilation can only exist in cases where there is an influx of fresh air into the room and an outflow of used air. You can often come across the concepts of “supply” or “exhaust” ventilation. These are not entirely correct concepts; there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the influx or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs naturally.

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data takes into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions based on air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air changes per hour; it can vary from 1÷2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and climate zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply/extract air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics for each type of ventilation; let’s look at them in more detail.

General rules for ventilation in a bathhouse

The principles of ventilation in a bathhouse largely depend on architectural features its designs. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through these same slots; there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bathhouse; when opened, they “turn” into exhaust vents. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the frequency of air changes.

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most effective and low-cost), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without cracks. It is this kind of bathhouse that we will focus on in our article. Why do you need ventilation in the bathhouse?

1. For better air mixing throughout the entire volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature in height; the difference in values ​​under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
2. To bring in fresh air. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the stay time does not exceed 20–30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in a steam room for a long time, then the flow of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers go to two extremes: in order to save heat, they abandon ventilation altogether or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences; ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account as much as possible the characteristics of the premises, temperature requirements in the steam room, materials for making walls and cladding.

In the case of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, increase in carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, and warm air is quickly removed from the room. But this is not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of contracting colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation can lead to cold floors

The flow of fresh air into the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many diagrams of air movement on the Internet, most of them were made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Fulfill only two conditions: air flow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of ducts diagonally in the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal air circulation and mixing. Everything else is just speculation; it can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, making it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two different-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The holes for air removal are located at different heights.

One right under the ceiling, used only for complete ventilation of the bath after finishing the water procedures. The third is made 30÷40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bathhouse; they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts serve to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter whether it is natural or forced. This is completely justified from both technological and economic points of view.

What other rooms can be connected with ventilation ducts to the steam room? Weird question. Then, why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Isn't it easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grilles with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will tell you about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation; we will not lay any ducts anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both “budget” and expensive exclusive doubles.

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety and quite effective. The specific locations of ventilation openings should be taken into account the size of the rooms, the location of shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the openings should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) is 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) is 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When selecting holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on external walls. It is advisable that they do not stand out too much on the façade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger rather than smaller. In case of too rapid exchange of air, leading to a decrease in temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles; they can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently.

The ventilation system is somewhat complicated and installation of electrical equipment is required. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and air humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection housing from moisture, during connection you should strictly follow the recommendations of the PUE. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

The advantages of forced ventilation are that the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated and the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, and in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is directed at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same effectiveness in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to make ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bathhouse do not provide for the flow of air through floor cracks, doors, windows or the furnace firebox. It is necessary to make holes for both air inlet and outlet. There is no internal or external wall cladding; the bathhouse is built from sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The outlet channel is diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the entire volume of the room. In addition, the incoming air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an outlet hole in the ceiling. We are against such a solution; humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire rafter system.

Step 2. Purchase or make your own grilles and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of future cladding of external and interior walls, think about how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable clearances; only they can ensure smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - the holes on the outside of the bath should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, preventing moisture from rain or snow from getting on the crowns of the log house.

Step 3. Make holes in the walls.

The most labor-intensive operation will have to be done manually. You need to pre-drill holes around the perimeter in the marked places. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to hollow out the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, chisel and hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the beams remaining between the holes. The holes for ventilation should be made 1-2 cm larger around the perimeter than the pipe being inserted. The fact is that this pipe then needs to be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensation on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - you will have to cut the timber across the grain, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bathhouse, and the other half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut out the hole. But we immediately warn you that working with a gasoline saw in such conditions is very dangerous. You will have to cut with the end of the bar; when you grab the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This method of using a saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to separate the inlet hole in the wall and in the bathhouse, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable not to use round pipes, and rectangular, they take up less space under the lining of the internal walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints between the elbow and the pipe with silicone and wrap it with tape for reliability.

Metallized adhesive tape

Step 4. Place foil or plastic film and mineral wool, the layer of wool should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even; be careful that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5. Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should fit in with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to use foam around the perimeter of the hole and pipe. Polyurethane foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after covering the walls, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. As the foam expands, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damage will be automatically closed.

The exhaust pipe may not be insulated; warm air escapes through it. But we advise you to do all the operations for her, just in case. Firstly, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will provide additional and reliable protection against the penetration of atmospheric moisture into wooden structures.

Once both holes are prepared, you can begin covering the walls and installing decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. When installing steam room ventilation, we strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil. The work is carried out according to the algorithm described above with one difference. Ventilation should be either constantly closed (during water procedures) or constantly open (during ventilating the bath). Using foil as a vapor barrier for walls has many positive aspects. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensation between the sheathing and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house using a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation manually, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to the heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are sufficient.

Step 1. Select a bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling location.

Step 2. To ease the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication must be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its internal and external surfaces.

Step 3. Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill bit. Insert the crown into the shallow hole and begin drilling the beam.

Step 4. Drill as far as the crown height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool and do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown against the beam.

Step 5. The crown no longer works - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It can be removed quickly, start gradually chipping away the holes in the corners. Do not cut the log across the grain with a chisel; chop it only along the grain, this makes the job much easier.

Repeat the operations until the hole becomes through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot get through one side of it, move to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the hole already made as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach reverse side. You'll have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the crown centering drill and very carefully make a through hole. The more accurately you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Heated sauna ventilation

Quite an original way of arranging ventilation; not only does fresh air flow into the bathhouse, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter; it not only improves the comfort of your stay, but also speeds up the heating of the premises and saves firewood.

Air is taken from the bottom of the bath and, with the help of electric fans, is supplied to the air intake duct.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, and air from the air duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator to heat the air coming from the air duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can improve the design a little. Place a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take in both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the microclimate parameters in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

Why is ventilation needed in a Russian bath? Let's take a simple example: a person is steaming, there is hot steam around him and he breathes it. Oxygen is exhaled and constantly inhaled carbon dioxide– and if there is no influx of fresh air in such an environment, the vacationer may simply get burned. That is, if there is no ventilation, the bathhouse simply becomes life-threatening - which is why there are so many subtleties in the technical rules for operating a bathhouse. Yes, sometimes you can hear from experienced craftsmen that ventilation in brick bath, for example, is not needed - but we're talking about not that fresh air is not needed in the steam room, but that sometimes natural ventilation is sufficient in the bathhouse, and it does not need forced ventilation.

So, how to make ventilation in a bathhouse - we are looking for the answer together with the Stroy-Banya.com portal.

General rules when planning bath ventilation

The ventilation system in the bathhouse itself has two main tasks: to deliver fresh air during procedures and to ensure quick and high-quality drying of the bathhouse premises after them. Both options must be thought out and implemented.

Here's what ventilation shouldn't do:

• Disturb the flow of fresh air temperature regime baths
• It is wrong to stratify temperature flows – i.e. It can only be cool near the floor, but not on a shelf where a steamed person is sitting.
• Remove the wrong air from the steam room - not exhaust air, which contains the most carbon dioxide.

Also, a lack of fresh air will invariably lead to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the bathhouse - and it is difficult to get rid of. Yes, air filled with mold and fungi spores is not the most healing for a vacationing person.

In total, the following types of ventilation in the bathhouse are provided:

• Natural, when all the air flow occurs due to the difference in pressure outside and indoors.
• Mechanical - when both the temperature and the air supply are monitored by devices.
• Combined, when pressure is artificially created using a fan.

And in the bathhouse itself you need not only an inflow, but also an outflow - and this is already done with the help of a box, which is always located diagonally from the supply channel.

Ventilation is vital not only in a stuffy steam room, but also in the shower, in the locker room and even in the rest room. You just need to initially decide which type is suitable for a particular bath.

The floors in the bathhouse must also be ventilated - after all, they are constantly in contact with water, which can lead to their destruction. If this is not done, they will have to be changed at least once every 5 years. Therefore, in order to extend their service life, it is important to do the following:

1. Initially, even while laying the foundation, it is necessary to ensure ventilation of the floors - make small vents on opposite sides of the base.
2. It is necessary to leave two more ventilation holes near the opposite walls of the steam room - for fresh air. To prevent a rodent from accidentally entering the bathhouse, these windows are usually covered with bars.
3. When installing the stove, it is important to ensure that the level of the finished floor is slightly higher than the vent - then it will work like an exhaust hood.
4. The boards should be laid so that there are gaps of 0.5 to 1 cm between them.
5. Upon completion of the bath procedures, the floors must be thoroughly dried - every time.

You can also make ventilation in the bathhouse “according to Bast”: organize the influx of fresh air under the stove, and the exhaust from the ceiling directly opposite the door in the corner. For this, a special exhaust duct is used - it can be made from a board and sheathed inside with foil

Correct air flow direction

Under the floor, the veterinary duct must be made directly next to the metal sheet - it is this that protects the floors from fire. And the size of the box itself should not exceed the diameter of the chimney by 20%. In general, this system is good - the flow of fresh air from the street is easy to regulate, but the unpleasant odor no longer penetrates into the steam room.

If the firebox is located directly in the steam room, then this option is the most rational. Of course, the design turns out to be more complex - after all, you already need to install two boxes in it: one to ensure convection of air masses, the second to burn wood. And the channels themselves can be placed directly in the brick podium - if a stove is installed.

5 popular device schemes to choose from

But the ventilation in the steam room must be thought out especially carefully - otherwise there will be no comfort from the pleasant procedures. And this can be achieved in different ways:

Option #1. The inlet is located behind the stove, half a meter from the floor, while the outlet is on the opposite side, at a height of 30 cm. A fan is installed in it for forced air movement. In this option, the air is heated evenly - cool currents are heated from the stove and go up, where they cool and fall down. There they are already taken out through the exhaust hole. And the lower it is, the stronger the air flow will be.

Option #2. Both ventilation holes are located on the same wall - opposite the stove. But the entrance is at the bottom, 30 cm from the floor, and the exit is at the top, 30 cm from the ceiling. Here, a fan is also installed in the outlet hole. But the flow pattern is somewhat different: cold air penetrates the steam room, hits the stove, heats up and rushes upward - into the hood and out.

Option #3. In this method, the inlet is behind the stove, at a height of 20 cm from the floor, and the outlet is at the same height, but on the opposite side. A fan is also installed here. The whole system is quite simple: cold air enters the steam room, passes through the stove and is drawn out using a fan.

Option number 4. This option is ideal for a steam room with floors where there are cracks for water to flow out. The inlet hole behind the stove is at a height of 30 cm from the floor; the air, which has cooled, falls down and penetrates through the floor, and then is discharged outside through the ventilation pipe.

Option #5. This method is for those baths where the stove operates constantly. The inlet is opposite the stove, 30 cm from the floor, and the chimney and firebox with a blower serve as an exhaust hood.

If you need to raise the temperature in the steam room or increase the amount or saturation of steam, then it will be enough to close the inlet holes with plugs. And after completing the procedures, remove the plugs. And it’s easier than pressing buttons on some kind of remote control for a complex and expensive ventilation system. This is how you do the ventilation of a bathhouse with your own hands - nothing complicated!

Ventilation is needed in all rooms; the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41–01–2003. But they apply only to residential, public and production premises, in which favorable conditions for humans are created. It is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and the same standard microclimate and air quality indicators must be created for everyone.

Baths have completely different tasks; they create a microclimate that is stressful for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to +60°C, in saunas more than +100°C) and high humidity air (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, temperature and humidity indicators should vary within wide limits depending on the wishes of those being washed. Changes in microclimate parameters should be carried out as quickly as possible, and achieved values be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between a bathhouse and ordinary premises. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothing, then this is impossible to do in bathhouses.

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must fulfill individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and operating features. Ventilation in a bathhouse can be natural or forced; each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation – natural.

Types of natural bath ventilation

We have already found out the tasks of bathhouse ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it’s time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember your physics lessons from school. Ventilation of rooms occurs due to the difference in air density outside and indoors. Heated air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave and cold air must be able to enter; inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet you can find statements that these holes must have same sizes, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blows in the wrong direction.” Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the sizes of air inlet and outlet does not affect the performance of ventilation in any way.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount of cold air will enter the room, no matter what the size of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse draft occurs in the case of wind pressure or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind “drives” the air into the room; in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a “back and forth” principle. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero; the air moves a little only near the holes.

And these phenomena are clear, now let’s look at specific types of natural ventilation of the bathhouse. Let's start with the simplest ones and end with the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective method of ventilation.

In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not as we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

The result is that ventilation is not a ventilation method that should be used constantly. This is a last resort; it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is only possible in one case - the firebox of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; entry can occur through floor cracks, a slightly open window or door. Sometimes at the bottom door leaf a special hole is made, to improve the design it is covered with a decorative lattice.

Advantages of ventilating a bathhouse with a stove.

There are, of course, disadvantages, let’s name the main ones.

1. Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
2. Presence of “dead” zones. Air mixing throughout the entire volume does not occur; zones with drafts and zones with standing air appear.
3. Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in “budget” options for baths.

For a budget steam room the best option- oven ventilation and ventilation

Ventilating a bathhouse with a stove - diagram

The optimal ventilation device for most baths.

Advantages:

Important. It is advisable to consider the ventilation device before starting the construction of the bathhouse. Solve issues with specific hole placement and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the vents no more than the height of the beam, and adjust the holes to make them longer.

Why is it best to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

Ventilation duct placement options and sizes

For all natural ventilation products there are several general rules. First, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air supply openings should be located below about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit openings should be located on maximum height- under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet openings are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. In what places is it recommended to install them?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bathhouse. This saves time and effort, and also eliminates the possibility of getting wet. lower crowns log house Disadvantage - in most cases, the doors are located opposite the shelves for bathing procedures; cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf.

Advantages - the inlet is invisible, the flow of cold air mixes well with warm air throughout the entire volume. Disadvantage: Access to the grille for opening/closing the damper becomes more difficult. If during washing you can regulate the intensity of ventilation only using the top grill, then after ventilating the baths you need to close both. This means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed, two per each - outside and inside the steam room. After ventilation, both baths should be closed. Choose a technology for installing grilles that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden for atmospheric moisture to enter the crowns of the log house.

Behind the stove.

The best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate flows with low speed. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature negatively affects the plastic or wooden materials of the decorative grille. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated sheet iron using thermal insulation.

No option is suitable for your specific case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice is don’t do it in the ceiling. Over-humidified air should not be vented into the attic; it will cause constant humidification. wooden elements rafter system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be vented to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the covering, why worsen the tightness of the roof covering with your own hands and at your own expense?

Opening sizes for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the size of ventilation holes is specified in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum multiplicity value is regulated, taking into account both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within small limits, this simplifies the work of designers.

In steam rooms the situation is much more complicated - temperature and humidity indicators vary within very wide limits. In addition, the speed of air arrival/receipt in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimal air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bathhouse owners are afraid of suffocating during bathing procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam; the count goes into tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you close the stove gate until the wood is completely burned out, then no amount of ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if carbon monoxide no longer enters. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of a bathhouse

For example, we will take the most complex option - the external and internal cladding of the walls of the bathhouse has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its size and configuration. It is advisable that air ducts and decorative grilles be available; this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the opening and not do unnecessary work.

Step 2. Prepare a long wood drill, the working length should exceed the thickness of the wall of the bathhouse together with the outer and internal lining. In the center of the drawn outline of the vent, drill a through hole from inside the steam room. The drill outlet outside the steam room will be the center of the air flow. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3. Remove the internal and external cladding elements in the outline. If your bathhouse is lined with natural clapboard on both sides, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut out the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.

Step 4. Inspect carefully bearing structures casings, if they are damaged, repair them. Drill through holes along the contour of the ventilation duct as close to each other as possible, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of ​​the vent; the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in wood

Step 5. Next you need to work with a chisel and chisel, gradually removing the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely hollow out a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. There is no need to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical labor done, you can begin installing the air duct and grilles. Don't be discouraged if it takes a lot of time to make holes; even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes per day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can use galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grille according to the size of the opening; to regulate the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool and carefully insert the air duct into place. To firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use polyurethane foam. Excess foam that appears should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2. If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, treat the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from getting into the wooden structures.

Step 3. Fasten the gratings; the method of fastening depends on the material of the wall cladding and sheathing.

Check the operation of the ventilation using a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air currents move in the steam room.

The photo shows the air supply valve and checking its functionality

Experiment with natural ventilation at different damper positions, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installation of the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with a Termofor stove-conditioner

In the process of arranging a bathhouse Special attention need to pay attention to the issue of organization high-quality ventilation. Without proper air exchange, it will simply be impossible to use the steam room normally. If desired, all work on installing the necessary systems can be done with your own hands. You just need to understand the order of installation and connection of the main units and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Ventilation in the bathhouse is very important. To avoid lengthy and not very interesting explanations, you can consider everything using a specific example.

The bathhouse visitor is in a room filled with a large amount of hot steam. A person inhales this vapor. It is known that people breathe oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. In the absence of sufficient air exchange, after some time a person will simply burn out.

That is why ventilation in the bathhouse should be as efficient as possible and made in full accordance with technology. There are several types of ventilation systems. Study the features of each option and choose the method that is most suitable for your case.

Ventilation systems are installed to solve two main problems, namely:

• ensuring the flow of clean air into the bathhouse;
• removal of exhaust air from the steam room.

Additionally, ventilation ensures faster and better drying of the steam room. It is necessary to study the features of existing ventilation systems and understand the order of their installation in order to obtain the most efficient and high-quality air exchange.

It is important that during operation of the ventilation system the temperature regime characteristic of the bath is not disturbed. Air exchange must be organized in such a way that there are no disturbances in the distribution of temperature flows in the bathhouse. Cool air in the steam room can only be located near the floor. And the higher you go to the ceiling, the higher the air temperature should be.

Ventilation should not remove clean air from the bathhouse. A properly equipped system supplies fresh air to the room and removes exhaust air. Errors during installation of the system will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences for both the bathhouse and its visitors.

Main types of ventilation systems

There are several types of air exchange systems suitable for use in a bathhouse, namely:

Exhaust air is removed from the bathhouse through a special ventilation duct. The air exchange installation technology requires that the box be installed diagonally to the supply opening through which fresh air enters the bathhouse.

Take care of ventilation in all areas of the bathhouse, and not just in the steam room. The dressing room, rest room and other areas of the bath should also be well ventilated.

What you need to know about floor ventilation?

Quite often, bathhouse owners forget that the floor of the steam room must also be well ventilated. Such forgetfulness leads to very rapid deterioration of floor structural elements and a general deterioration in the characteristics of the bathhouse.

Floors are constantly in contact with water. Without properly organized air exchange, the floor will collapse very quickly, and the floor covering will have to be replaced after 2-3 years.

You need to think about floor ventilation at the bathhouse construction stage, because... In a ready-made room, it will be much more difficult to create high-quality air exchange.

First stage. Make small vents in the opposite walls of the basement. It is best to provide these vents at the stage of construction of the concrete base of the bathhouse. Creating any holes in an already finished structure will lead to some reduction in the strength of the building.

Second phase. Make one ventilation hole in opposite walls of the room being served. Through them, clean air will flow into the room. The holes must be through. It is recommended to close the finished channels with special ventilation grilles. Such protection will not allow all kinds of rodents and other pests to enter the bathhouse.

Third stage. When building a stove, make sure that its vent is slightly below the level of the finished floor. Thanks to this placement, the oven will also start working in exhaust mode.

Fourth stage. Lay floor boards. When laying them, you need to leave gaps about 7-10 mm wide. Water can flow down through these gaps. If the liquid lingers on the floor every time, the boards will rot very quickly.

Quite often, floor ventilation is arranged “according to Bast”. According to this technology, fresh air comes from under the stove, and waste oxygen is removed through an opening under the ceiling.

According to requirements fire safety There should be a metal sheet lying near the sauna stove. It is near this sheet that a hole is created to supply fresh air to the bathhouse.

To provide such air exchange, a special exhaust duct is required. You can buy a ready-made box or assemble it yourself from boards. The inner surface of the exhaust duct must be covered with foil. The size of the box should be approximately 15-20% larger than the diameter of the chimney.

Ventilation “according to Bast” is the best option for those cases when the stove is located directly in the steam room. In such a situation, ventilation ducts can even be installed directly in the brick podium.

Pay attention to the installation location of the sauna stove. If the stove is located directly in the steam room, it means that natural air exchange is present initially. You just don’t need to rely solely on it - such ventilation only works when the stove is running.

The most optimal option for installing ventilation is to install air exchange channels on opposite walls of the bathhouse. They should be at different heights.

It is not recommended to place ventilation holes too high. Although in most other cases it is recommended to make an exhaust hole directly under the ceiling, slightly different rules apply in bathhouses. If you place the hood directly under the ceiling, hot air will escape from the room very quickly.

For baths, the optimal height for placing ventilation holes is a level of 1-1.5 m.

Installation guide for ventilation in a bathhouse

There are several simple ways to organize effective air exchange in a bathhouse. Study each of them and choose the best one for your steam room.

First way. Create a hole to supply fresh air. It should be behind the stove, about half a meter from the floor. Make a hole for exhaust air exhaust on the side opposite to the inlet hole, at a height of approximately 30 cm from the floor level. Install the fan into the outlet.

The lower you place the exhaust ventilation duct, the more intense the air exchange will be.

However, there is no need to be too zealous either. Try to make holes at the recommended height, because... such values ​​are the most optimal. It is recommended to close the holes with ventilation grilles.

Second way. With this air exchange, both ventilation holes will be on the same wall. Work will be carried out with a wall located parallel to the stove. The exhaust duct is created at a level of about 30 cm from the floor, the exhaust duct is created at the same distance from the ceiling of the bathhouse. The exhaust vent is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

Third way. Make a hole behind the sauna stove for air intake. Place the suction duct at a level of about 20 cm from the floor surface. The exhaust duct is made at approximately the same height, but in the opposite wall. The exhaust vent is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

Fourth way. This air exchange option is perfect for baths, the flooring of which is laid with slots for water drainage. Make an inlet hole behind the stove unit at a distance of about 30 cm from the floor surface. In the case of such ventilation, an exhaust hole is not made - the exhaust air will leave the bathhouse through the cracks of the floor covering, and then be vented outside through a common ventilation pipe.

Fifth way. This ventilation is ideal for baths with a constantly running stove unit. Install the inlet channel opposite the stove, about 30 cm away from the floor. The hood function will be performed by the oven.

Thus, the procedure for arranging ventilation is practically the same in all the considered methods. Each of them involves the creation of one or two holes; only the location and height of their placement change.

You can also make the holes yourself. Brick walls can be easily penetrated with a hammer drill, and log walls with any suitable tool, for example, a wood drill. It is recommended to insert plastic pipes into the finished holes. Don't forget about protective ventilation grilles. In the future, you are unlikely to be happy with uninvited guests in the form of rodents.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bathhouse