Insulating a frame house: where to start and what material to choose? Proper insulation of a frame house Technology of insulating a frame house with mineral wool

Insulation frame house - one of the most important stages of construction, since the insulation layer serves as the only barrier to the penetration of cold into the home, as well as an insulator from wind and moisture.

AND up to 80% everyone frame houses insulated with mineral wool or materials based on it.

Mineral wool- This vapor permeable insulation, which is the most popular material for thermal insulation. Mineral wool is highly sound insulating and environmentally friendly. Throughout the entire period of use, the mineral wool remains in its original form.

Advantages and disadvantages

Main advantages mineral wool:

• Low thermal conductivity. This coefficient depends on the density of mineral wool and can range from 0.032 to 0.039 W/(m*K). And the harder the wool, the less thermal conductivity it will have.
• Durability. If installed correctly, insulation can last up to 70 years.
• Easy to install. The material is easy to cut with a knife and convenient to process.
• Fire safety. Mineral wool does not burn, but only melts under the influence of high temperatures, without emitting harmful substances into the atmosphere.

To the disadvantages insulation with mineral wool include:

• High cost.
• The need to protect the material from moisture using vapor and waterproofing films.
• Installation of wool slabs must be carried out in a suit and a respirator to protect against harmful dust .

Types of mineral wool, their pros and cons

Happens 3 types:

• Glass wool (the raw material is glass melts).
• Stone (made from rocks).
• Slag (made from slag).

Previously described advantages and disadvantages mineral wool is inherent in all its varieties, shown below distinctive advantages and the disadvantages of each type.

Glass wool- This is a fibrous insulation, which is one of the types of mineral wool. The raw materials for its production are glass melts and binders - resins.

Pros of glass wool:

• Breathability.
• Frost resistance.
• Chemical resistance.
• Resistant to mold and fungal attack.

Disadvantages of insulation:

• Short service life - up to 10 years.
• Shrinkage up to 80%.

Stone (basalt) wool- this is a vapor-permeable insulation, which is one of the best sound and thermal insulation materials. It is made from rocks with the addition of urea resins and bentonite clay.

Advantages of stone wool:

• High density.
• Minimal shrinkage (about 5%).
• Resistant to rot, mold and mildew.

To the disadvantages The high moisture absorption of stone wool can be attributed.

Important: wool is produced in slabs and rolls, it may have different densities– from 30 to 100 kg/m³.

Slag wool It is made from blast furnace slag, which is a waste product from metallurgical production.

Pros are slagging:

• flexibility and elasticity (can be used for insulating round surfaces).
• Low cost.

Disadvantages of insulation:

• When water gets on cotton wool, acid is released, which destroys the metal.
• The material does not tolerate temperature changes well.

The table shows that stone wool has the best technical indicators, plus it has minimal shrinkage. Slag wool is noticeably inferior to glass and stone wool in terms of thermal conductivity and has low noise insulation values.

Technology for insulating the floor of a frame house

Floor insulation technology based on the type of foundation of the house. Majority frame structures They are placed on a pile-screw foundation, but regardless of the type of foundation of the house, the first layer of floor insulation should be waterproofing.

If the house is located high from the ground and you can climb under it, then first attach it under the joists with a stapler waterproofing film, and then nail the bottom sheathing boards.

They can be nailed close to each other or in increments of up to 40 cm. They will keep the mineral wool slabs and waterproofing film from falling down.

If you can’t crawl under the house, then boards are stuffed under the joists, and then a film is laid over the joists and boards from the inside. Mineral wool is placed tightly between the joists on the film . Distance between joists should be 58-59 cm, since standard width cotton wool slabs – 60 cm.

Average mineral wool layer thickness should be 15 cm, and the height of the logs should be slightly less. Each new layer of wool must overlap the joints of the previous one and have an overlap of at least 20 cm.

On top of mineral wool and lag attach a vapor barrier film, seal the joints with 2-sided tape. Sheets of plywood, OSB or boards are laid on the film, which will serve as the basis for finishing the floors.

Important: hydro- and vapor barrier films are laid so that their edges extend onto the walls. This will prevent moisture from getting between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Scheme for insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

The walls in a frame house are insulated and outside and inside. The materials used for this are the same.

Insulation of external walls

Wall insulation technology mineral wool from the outside includes several stages. First, the frame is sheathed on the outside with OSB boards with a distance between the boards of 2-3 mm. These gaps are then filled polyurethane foam.

Outside, a waterproofing film is stretched over the slabs to protect slabs and a layer of mineral wool against precipitation, the joints of the films are covered with double-sided tape.

On the inside, mineral wool slabs are inserted between the frame beams. The joint of the second layer of wool should overlap the joint of the first by 15-20 cm.

Advice: it is best to take wool slabs with a density of at least 35-50 kg/m³ to insulate the walls of a frame dwelling. Such mineral wool will not sag or roll down.

After laying all the insulation must be filled out polyurethane foam all the cracks that appeared at the joints of boards and beams.

On top of a layer of mineral wool A vapor barrier film is stretched from the inside to protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the room. Next, OSB sheets, plywood or boards are stuffed onto the film. In conclusion, finishing walls

Insulation of internal walls

Insulation interior walls frame house is mainly carried out to ensure sound insulation. To do this, you can use mineral wool, another type of insulation, or special soundproofing materials.

The technology for insulating walls inside is similar to insulation external walls, while hydro- and heat-insulating films may not be used.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Ceiling insulation is one of the most critical stages of home insulation technology. It is recommended to carry it out while the roof is not yet fully assembled, so that this does not interfere with the tight laying of mineral wool on top of the ceiling.

Firstly, on ceiling beams A vapor barrier film is attached from the inside. A board is nailed onto it 2.5 cm thick, plywood sheet or OSB board. Next, wool slabs are attached on top according to the same rules as for insulating walls and floors.

Attention: mineral wool is placed completely over the entire ceiling, plus an overlap over the entire width of the walls.

If the attic is not used for living, then there is no need to lay membrane films. You can immediately sheathe it with plywood or boards for ease of movement. In cases where it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from above, it is used insulation from the inside. To do this, mineral wool slabs are tied to the ceiling. Then a vapor barrier film is sewn on and plywood sheets or boards.

Since warm air always rises to the top, then with improper insulation the ceiling will leave a large amount of heat from the room.

Insulation of the roof of a frame house

Roof insulation technology similar to ceiling insulation with one exception. A waterproofing film must be laid over the insulation layer to protect the mineral wool from the external environment (rain, wind or snow).

After installation rafter system a vapor barrier film is hemmed underneath, onto which hemming boards or plywood sheets are stuffed from the inside.

Then sheets of insulation are laid on the outside, covering them with a waterproofing film. On film stuff the counter-lattice, then lathing under the roof and roofing material.

Roof insulation more convenient to produce outside, so the cotton wool fibers will not fall on your face. If the roof is already assembled, then insulation can be done from the inside. But this is less convenient, since it will be necessary to temporarily fix the mineral wool slabs before installing the vapor barrier.

In conclusion, we can say that insulating a frame house with mineral wool will ensure minimal heat removal through the walls and will cut costs for heating in winter. Mineral wool as insulation provides natural ventilation in the house and is an excellent sound insulator against noise from the street.

Look at the video for a diagram of insulating a frame house with mineral wool:

Watch the video for a master class on insulating the external walls of a frame house using URSA TERRA:

To do this, the surface of the walls of the house is covered both outside and inside. vapor barrier film, and then the resulting pie is supplemented with a layer of drywall or lining.

Thus, insulating frame walls with your own hands occurs in several stages, as required by the technology. The resulting pie can be saturated from the inside with extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

To prevent the formation of cold bridges when laying frame insulation made with your own hands, followed by overlapping the resulting joining seams and the entire previous layer, which forms the pie on the outside.

After the insulation has been installed outside with your own hands, it is best to cover the outer layer with polystyrene foam or cotton wool, and put a windproof membrane on top, which can be secured with a stapler.

The resulting insulation cake of the frame structure is covered with lathing on the outside; it is needed to hold the insulation as in the case.

It is best to make the lathing yourself from a material such as wood. The sheathing will not only hold the insulation, but will also form ventilation gap inside the frame facade, which will be located between the membrane and the cladding located outside.

The insulation of a frame structure can be carried out either with polystyrene foam or with mineral wool. In order to insulate the surface of a frame house, you can use not only polystyrene foam or cotton wool, but also choose alternative material for insulation

2 Types of mineral wool for insulating a frame house

Before choosing mineral wool for insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with its main types, their features and characteristics. Now wool for insulation has three varieties, these are:

• Glass wool;
• Slag;
• Stone (basalt) wool.

If you are going to choose glass wool to insulate a frame structure, then keep in mind that the thickness of its fibers is 5-15 microns with a length of 15-50 mm.

Thanks to such fibers, glass wool is quite elastic and durable. When insulating walls using glass wool, you should take care in advance of the availability of funds personal protection– gloves, thick overalls and a respirator. Mineral wool made using fiberglass will differ:

• The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.052 watts per meter per Kelvin as at;
• Permissible heating temperature of +500 degrees Celsius;
• The permissible cooling temperature is -60 degrees Celsius.

Slag wool is made using blast furnace slag. The thickness of its fibers can reach 12 microns, with a length of 16 mm.

Due to the fact that slags have residual acidity, being in a damp room, they can affect metal surfaces with a high degree of aggressiveness.

Slag wool has a tendency to absorb excessive moisture. Because of this, it is not very well suited for providing thermal insulation for the facades of frame buildings.

The material has a high degree of fragility, therefore, if you pick it up in your hands, it will prick. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this substance is 0.48 watts per meter per Kelvin, and the maximum permissible heating temperature is +300 degrees Celsius.

The level of hygroscopicity of slag wool is quite high and this is an example. Stone wool has approximately the same fibers as slag wool.

However, compared to polystyrene foam, it has several undeniable advantages. The fibers of stone (basalt) wool do not prick, so it is quite safe to work with it.

Thermal conductivity index basalt wool equal to up to 0.12 watts, at a maximum heating temperature of +600 degrees Celsius. Basalt wool is made using diabase, but the structure of this insulation also contains substances such as:

• Clay;
• Limestone;
• Dolomite.

Basalt wool also contains formaldehyde resins. As the volume of such substances decreases, the material becomes less resistant to moisture, but at the same time, the likelihood of evaporation of harmful substances is significantly reduced.

Basalt wool is also characterized by the fact that it does not contain additional elements. This insulation is capable of withstanding a temperature increase of +1000 degrees Celsius, with a maximum cooling threshold of up to -190 degrees.

Fiber made from basalt wool is in most cases presented in the form of rolls, and sheet material Convenient for filling mats. The flammability of this substance is minimal; the fibers do not catch fire, but only melt.

2.1 Which cotton wool is most suitable?

Any of the modifications of the presented insulation is highly hygroscopic. Therefore, if moisture gets behind the surface of the frame sheathing, mineral wool immediately loses all its thermal insulation benefits.

In this case, it becomes wet and caking, as during application. A section of the wall becomes open and cold air begins to flow through it.

To avoid such consequences, modern developers actively use for insulation frame buildings mineral wool, which is in a protective polyethylene shell.

In order to insulate walls in a frame house, it is best to give preference to tiled materials rather than those packaged in rolls.

It is quite convenient to work with such insulation; it will not slip or caulk. The material, which contains a fair amount of phenol-formaldehyde resins, has a high degree of resistance to constant exposure to moisture.

The material stuffed with small fibers is distinguished by its high thermal insulation properties. It is recommended to use mineral wool with a thicker layer.

2.2 Stages of insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool should be placed in the spaces between the frame posts. In this case, it is important to take into account the value of the distance so that between the tiled or roll material there was no gap.

The same applies to the space between the supports. In the process installation work It is strictly forbidden to press cotton wool, as this will significantly reduce its thermal insulation ability. This is directly related to the reduction in layer thickness.

The main reason lies in the structural features of the insulating material. Inside it, air masses act as a heat accumulator, and as a result of compression of the fibers, the number of cavities in which air can be retained is significantly reduced.

Insulation roll type attached to the inside of the sheathing using staples or construction stapler.

In this case, the intervals should be equal, but the distance between them should be no more than 30 centimeters.

In cases where mineral wool is used, walls and ceilings acquire reliable and high-quality vapor barrier.

In addition, in order to improve its characteristics, it would be rational to use breathable membranes. The use of polyethylene is not recommended, since due to a sharp temperature change, condensation will begin to form on its surface.

The walls of a frame house should be insulated from the inside. Cotton wool is laid on the ceilings using boards. Plates of material should not be placed end-to-end to each other to prevent deformation of the internal structure of the material.

When using insulation boards enclosed in a polyethylene shell, care must be taken to ensure that its tightness and integrity are not compromised.

2.3 Insulating the walls of a frame house using mineral wool (video)

A frame house is one of the fastest and available ways housing constructions. But there are many nuances here. After all, there is no structure on the walls that resists the impact environment. Therefore, the issue of thermal insulation in such buildings is acute.

For insulation of frame houses, mineral wool is often chosen. Therefore, you need to figure out which type to choose and how to install it correctly.

This type of heat insulator is known, given, but not inferior in popularity and technical characteristics modern technologies. At some points you can even be a step higher. If we compare the popular polystyrene foam or penoplex with mineral wool, then the second option is good at transmitting vapors that accumulate in the premises.

Some types of mineral wool are made from waste. For example, metallurgical waste is suitable for slag wool; glass wool is created from glass production residues or broken material.

In addition, insulation can be purchased at any hardware store. Special conditions There is no transportation either, so you can use your own transport. The main thing is that the cotton wool does not get wet.

Advantages and disadvantages

Manufacturers establish a certain list of advantages and disadvantages of their material at the design stage. But since mineral wool is already used, consumers have added several of their own points. The undeniable advantages of insulation include:

1. Low heat conductivity, which means an excellent heat insulator. But pay attention to the hardness of the wool. Stiffer material retains warm air better.
2. Fire safety. All types of mineral wool are not capable of supporting combustion. This point is very important for a frame house.
3. Duration of operation. This point is only possible if all rules for installing a heat insulator are observed.
4. Noise absorption. In addition to the fact that wool is a heat insulator, it can also reduce the amount of noise that can penetrate into the interior. Moreover, it works well both outside and inside.
5. Easy installation. Of course, there are several nuances, but the insulation does not cause any particular difficulties. The material can be easily adjusted to the desired size.

As for the shortcomings, there are only a few of them:

• hygroscopicity - cotton wool quickly absorbs moisture and loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, it is protected with special membranes on both sides;
• high cost - when compared with polystyrene foam, the price is slightly higher;
• the need to use a thicker layer of material to provide thermal insulation;
• fragility of fibers - this is especially true for glass wool. Therefore, installation of insulation is carried out only in protective clothing using glasses and gloves.

If the owner is not satisfied with this balance of pros and cons, he has the right to choose another option. But before that, be sure to consult with professional craftsmen.

Types of mineral wool

As mentioned above, there are several types of this insulation. Each has all the pros and cons that we have already become familiar with. The options differ in the raw materials used for production.

Slag

The main raw materials are metallurgical waste. At high temperatures, the components are fused and drawn into thin threads. This option is the cheapest of all types of cotton wool. But at the same time it also has big amount disadvantages:

1. When wet, strong acids are formed that can even destroy metal.
2. Retains heat less efficiently.
3. Short service life.
4. Capable of withstanding loads up to 300 degrees Celsius.

Glass wool

To make this type of insulation, waste from the glass industry or the same materials as for glass melting (sand, borax, soda, limestone) are used. Everything is thoroughly mixed and, of course, fused. Next, thin threads are drawn out, from which the future insulator is formed.

Features of the material include:

• the most brittle and prickly fibers of all types of mineral wool;
• less hygroscopicity than the slag representative;
• resists biological, mechanical and chemical influences;
• gives less shrinkage;
• withstands heating up to 450 degrees, after which it melts.

Basalt wool

For this option, rocks are chosen as raw materials, namely basalt and bentonite clays. That’s why there is another name for stone wool.

Some manufacturers also add urea resins. But all components are safe for human life and health. The production temperature is around 1500 degrees.

The material has a lower moisture absorption coefficient, practically does not shrink, and can protect the house from exposure to temperatures in the range from – 180 to 700 degrees. The cost of this insulation is slightly higher than the previous two. But is it worth saving if we're talking about about your own comfort and coziness.

Insulation thickness

In order not to make a mistake when choosing the size of insulation, focus on the following points:

1. Climatic location of the site and the house. If you live in the northernmost part of the country, then you need to choose thicker insulation or several layers. The thickness of the thermal insulation should be 30 cm.
2. Heating method.
3. The height of ceilings in future premises.
4. The size of the windows, as well as their design (wood or plastic and the number of cameras).

Technology of thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

In order for the cotton wool to fully perform the tasks assigned to it, it is necessary to adhere to all installation rules. Otherwise, within a few years the cold will begin to penetrate into the premises, and frame house will be covered with ice.

The owner will spend all his savings on heating at this time. Therefore, either carefully study all the intricacies of the installation and do everything yourself. Or take care of a professional team.

As for technology, you can work in two directions:

• from interior spaces out. From the inside, the wall is covered with OSB board - vapor barrier - insulation - water barrier - again board - cladding;
• from outside to inside. First, OSB - water barrier - insulation - vapor barrier - slab - interior finishing.

There are no differences in the amount of materials used, and in future operation too, the main thing is not to confuse where the vapor barrier is and where the hydrobarrier is.

Vapor barriers

Such a membrane is covered under insulation. The wall on the side of the room will be closed OSB board. This layer will allow vapors to escape freely, but not accumulate in the insulation. We already know that mineral wool quickly absorbs moisture, so vapor barrier necessary element in the process of insulating a frame house.

The film must be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. You can move both horizontally and vertically. The joints must be taped to prevent moisture from seeping through these places.

Installation of mineral wool

The insulation is placed tightly between the frame posts. If the width of the material is 60 cm, then the distance between the elements is about 59 cm.

This is necessary to ensure that the mineral wool does not slip and even small cracks do not form. But you also need to make sure that the slabs do not bulge, otherwise complete insulation will not be possible.

Internal walls (interior) are also filled with mineral wool. In this case, it is used as a sound insulator. The installation process is identical, but there is no need to use a water barrier. It is better to lay a vapor barrier on both sides.

Installation of wind and moisture protection

This layer is laid in exactly the same way as the vapor barrier. The membrane is laid over the insulation, moving either from bottom to top or from left to right.

Be sure to make an overlap of 10-15 cm, which is glued with tape. Such a membrane will protect the insulation, and the entire frame, from atmospheric moisture and strong wind gusts.

Wall decoration

For external cladding frame walls wooden house You should not use heavy options. Vinyl or acrylic siding is perfect. To install it, a counter-lattice is placed on top of the windbreak. It is to these strips that the facing material is mounted.

Additional lathing will also create a ventilation gap, which means that the moisture that comes out of the rooms will leave the walls faster. The frame of the house will remain strong and reliable longer.

Required Tools

You don't need anything special. Everything that the owner has in the kit is suitable for installing mineral wool. Although some tools may not be at hand. Then we rent it or borrow it from someone.

1. Impregnation for wooden elements.
2. Roller or brush for applying impregnation.
3. Hammer or screwdriver.
4. Chisel.
5. Nail puller.
6. Jigsaw with blades for transverse and longitudinal cuts.
7. Construction knife - for cutting insulation.
8. Wood saw.

How to do everything yourself?

In a frame house, as in any other house, it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor, ceiling, and even the roof. Such events will ensure that in the future residents will not freeze in the winter and swelter from the heat in the summer. Therefore, you should not lose sight of some elements of the structure.

Floors

Floor insulation begins with waterproofing. But the execution process will depend on the foundation on which the frame house stands. There are two options:

1. You can crawl under the house - a pile-screw foundation. First, the wind-moisture-proof membrane is fixed. Be sure to overlap and glue the joints. Chipboard is nailed on top of it, but on the ground side. Next, they begin work on the premises. The insulation is tightly laid and covered with a vapor barrier. Then they lay it down wood board or boards.
2. If it is not possible to get under the house, then first fix the chipboard and lay a protective film on top. And then they work the same way as in the previous version.

For ceiling insulation, there is also a choice:

• from the side of the room;
• from the attic side.

The first option is somewhat inconvenient. Mineral wool fibers break off and get into the eyes and respiratory tract. This is very unpleasant and can cause an allergic reaction. But if it is not possible to use another option, then this one will also work.

The insulation is tied to the ceiling, covered with a vapor barrier, and then OSB or chipboard is used. After which you can begin finishing work.

In the second option, slabs will be used first, followed by insulation. After which the insulation is covered. Make sure everything is tight. The top of the mineral wool is covered with either boards or slab material.

Pitched roof

It is better to insulate the roof before the roofing material is installed. They work according to this plan:

1. Wood boards are fixed from the attic side.
2. Lay a vapor barrier.
3. Install mineral wool.
4. Provides wind and moisture protection.
5. Install roofing material.

If the roof is completely closed, then they work in the reverse order.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

When starting to insulate walls, be sure to take into account the height of the walls. If this indicator is higher than 3 m, it is necessary to add horizontal frame elements on which the mineral wool will rest. In this case, the load on the lower layers of insulation is reduced, which means it will not sag.

Insulating the walls of a frame house is an important stage of construction that should not be neglected.

It is worth approaching this process seriously and responsibly, because frame houses are in no way inferior to concrete or brick ones in reliability and durability, and in most cases even benefit.

If you want your home to be a real holiday: warm and comfortable in winter, fresh and cozy in summer, then everything is in your hands.

Let's figure out how to properly insulate the walls of a frame house with your own hands.

Information about the most popular insulation materials

Today, a considerable number of insulation materials are known that are used in the construction of frame houses. Everyone has characteristic properties, its pros and cons.

When choosing insulation, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

• low level of thermal conductivity;
• fire resistance;
• health safety;
• ease of installation;
• lack of tendency to deformation;
• long service life;
• value for money.

Today, in the process of building a home, the most popular materials for wall insulation are polystyrene foam and mineral and basalt wool.

The article is devoted to the features of these types of insulation, their advantages, disadvantages and nuances of the installation process.

Mineral wool is a popular high-quality insulation material. Mats or rolls are used for insulation.

They are easy to install, lightweight, durable, have excellent noise insulation and low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages of insulating material include not being environmentally friendly (containing a small dose of substances harmful to health) and the inability to withstand the action of moisture (leading to loss of thermal insulation properties).

Mineral wool is mainly used during external insulation. One type of mineral wool is basalt wool.

The material has a number of positive properties:

• low thermal conductivity;
• health safety;
• resistance to various environmental influences;
• fire resistance;
• strength;
• long service life.

The disadvantage of insulation with basalt wool is the cost of the material. But a large number of the advantages of insulation cover this minus.

Recently, polystyrene foam has rapidly become the leader among frame house insulation materials.

First of all, due to its low price. In addition, the material is convenient to use, lightweight, and harmless to health.

But at the same time, polystyrene foam has significant disadvantages:

• is highly flammable and, when ignited, releases toxic substances;
• very fragile, can be easily damaged during operation;
• The material can be significantly damaged by rodents.

Although many experts claim that rats and mice do not eat polystyrene foam, but establish their homes there.

They say that modern foam plastic produced with the addition of fire-resistant additives.

It's time to familiarize yourself with the technology of wall insulation using each of the materials mentioned.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with cotton wool

Insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is a labor-intensive but effective process.

The main thing is that the walls are maintained correctly. First, let's consider insulating the external walls of a frame house with our own hands.

On initial stage work, the outside frame of the wall is sheathed with slabs (chipboard) so that there are gaps between them, which can be foamed at the end of the work.

Then insulation is laid layer by layer between the frame posts.

To prevent the formation of void bridges and cold bridges, you should take mineral wool with good density and lay each layer slightly offset.

The amount of insulation varies depending on the climate zone of the home.

The next step is to fill all the voids with foam. After this, it is necessary to cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, and fill the sheathing on it.

Now let's talk about insulating interior walls with our own hands.

Often this procedure is carried out to soundproof walls. It is advisable to use a special sound-absorbing material, but mineral wool will also work.

It is worth noting that protective membranes are not required for this process. The remaining stages of insulation of external and internal walls are the same.

Anyone who has at least the slightest construction skills can insulate the walls of a frame house with basalt wool. But at the same time, the process requires serious responsibility and concentration.

Before insulating the external walls of a frame house, cracks should be repaired. For this purpose, installation foam, tow, etc. are useful.

It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper) with ventilation. The film will protect the insulation from moisture, ventilation will facilitate the passage of air.

The insulation process consists of the following stages:

1. Mounting and fastening of a metal cornice to facilitate the process of laying insulating material and as protection against mice and rats;
2. Gluing a basalt slab to the wall. To begin with, large wall sections are filled with thermal insulation boards, then smaller sections;
3. Leveling the wall surface.

As for the insulation of internal walls, the material here also performs a soundproofing function. The technology is identical to the scheme for insulating external walls.

So, the processes of insulating walls with mineral and basalt wool with your own hands are similar.

They require certain construction knowledge and skills, diligence and faith in one’s potential. It is necessary to take into account all the subtleties of insulation technology.

Working with foam plastic

With positive and negative sides You are already familiar with polystyrene foam as insulation.

Now let's look at how to insulate the external walls of a frame house using polystyrene foam. In the process of insulating walls with your own hands, the temperature must be maintained above zero.

At the initial stage, you should prepare the frame (get rid of unnecessary objects; treat the surface with antiseptic agents in order to protect the home from fire, level it (air should not get into the cracks), if possible fill the gaps with frost-resistant foam (for installation); treat the surface primer, let dry).

The next step is to apply a waterproofing layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper), which acts as a protection for the walls from wind and moisture, applied with outside.

There is an opinion that polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture at all, and a waterproofing layer is not needed.

But when low temperatures Humidity can destroy insulation. So laying this layer is necessary step insulation. Protective film glued with tape or special tape.

For high-quality insulation For a frame house, experts recommend laying three layers of insulation on top of each other, not forgetting to treat the joints with frost-resistant foam.

Be sure to position the slabs correctly so that they do not deform under the influence of temperatures, negatively affecting the cladding.

The inside walls are wrapped with a vapor barrier film to prevent condensation from forming on the insulation.

Penofol and various vapor barrier membranes are used as protection.

External cladding can be made over a waterproofing layer. Here you can do without ventilation.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with foam plastic inside the building is similar to insulating external walls.

So which insulation should you choose for your frame home? Let's summarize.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high tech, computer technology, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order to insulate a frame house. The client took up self-construction this building, but in the process of work I decided to immediately adapt a country house for year-round residence. He didn’t know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think any novice builder may encounter a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to insulate the facade, floor and attic country cottage, built according to frame technology.

Choosing a location for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the thermal insulation layer - outside or inside. I prefer external insulation, but in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two mentioned options. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision yourself.

External	Internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation cake will be placed on the outside of the living space, therefore, during construction work the interior of the rooms does not suffer.	When installing internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishing of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, carry out finishing from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the point of moisture condensation inside the wall, as a result of which the enclosing structure becomes moist, which significantly reduces its service life.
Wooden wall in direct contact with warm air in the room, accumulating thermal energy, and when the outside air temperature drops, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous freeze and thaw cycles, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can only be used when insulating a very old house: installing insulating material from the inside will allow you to avoid dismantling the external finishing, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. Several times I have encountered situations where even the correct internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter cold. And we had to install additional ones - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let’s figure out what is the best way to insulate a frame house from the outside.

Selection of thermal insulation material

Taking into account the specifics of a wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select insulation taking into account the following requirements:

1. The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds hazardous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
2. The material must have fire-fighting properties - it will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also advisable to select insulation that during a fire does not emit a large amount of smoke, making it difficult to evacuate people.
3. It is better to select insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. Optimal thickness– no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the timber usually used to construct the frame).
4. Durability and ability to retain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame should fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
5. Ease of installation. To simplify the process of constructing a frame house, you need to buy insulation that can be easily installed inside the frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is price. Considering the total estimated cost of constructing a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select such insulation that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest thing to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation– mats based on fibers made from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The thermal conductivity coefficient λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W/(m*K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal calculations show that for middle zone Russia energy efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Non-flammability	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins that glue the mats together have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture outside.
Light weight	After installation, the insulation places virtually no additional load on the enclosing structures, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats of suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without requiring additional lathing, fittings or wet construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. For work I use products from TechnoNIKOL or Rockwool.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the outside and inside of a house.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we have decided that it will be basalt fiber), we will need a lot of different materials:

• OSB boards for internal and external cladding of the load-bearing frame of the walls of a home;
• wooden beams 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and the decorative finish;
• hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
• internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on polyethylene foam (for example, penofol) to increase the operating efficiency of heating devices;
• block house, with the help of which the external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
• eurolining, which I will use to cover the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I won’t dwell on which tools to use. You will understand in the course of further presentation.

Insulation process

Now I’m telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter accommodation. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I’ll say right away that in my case the frame of the house has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the home for installation inside heat-insulating material. I do this in the following sequence:

1. I cleanse wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden facing materials, therefore, contamination can negatively affect the integrity of the structure, efficiency and service life of the insulating layer. You can clean the wood using a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

1. I repair damaged frame parts. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I insulated new house under construction. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

1. I install engineering communications. If a hidden gasket is assumed engineering systems, then it is better to do this before covering the walls with decorative material. There are several features that I want to mention:

• All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable channels, which protect the insulating layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
• During installation water pipes There should be no detachable connections inside the wall, which over time can loosen and leak.

1. I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal composition (for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and mildew on load-bearing frame home and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. Wood must be treated with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the interior cladding I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of polished aluminum foil. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. I cover the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. The vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
   • Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces the right size according to pre-made drawings.
   • The parts must be made in such a size that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed through which the moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
   • The sheets are attached with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent screws should not exceed 20 cm.
   • The cladding seams should be staggered and offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allows them to avoid warping of the surface when changing the size of the base.

1. I am installing vapor barrier material. As I already said, its role will be played by penofol - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
   • The material should be placed on OSB sheets with the reflective layer facing outward, and then secured to the panels using a construction stapler or nails with wide heads.
   • Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one by a distance of 10 cm.
   • To seal the seams, double-sided adhesive tape is placed inside the overlap, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulating layer.

1. I'm installing counter rails. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap between the foil and the finishing lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally depending on how you will secure it decorative material(in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards using self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

1. I secure the paneling on counter slats. I have already described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard once, so I will not go into detail. I will only say that it is better to install lamellas on clamps, thanks to which changes in the dimensions of the eurolining during operation are compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra slabs are best suited for thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so two layers of 5 cm mineral mats are sufficient for insulation.

Another advantage is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between supports of 60 cm. This is exactly the width of the insulation board. Therefore, there is practically no need for pruning. Thanks to this, expensive material is used with maximum efficiency.

1. I am installing the first layer of insulation. As I already said, the width of the slabs exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame beams, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened out, the mineral mat will firmly occupy the place intended for it. Let me draw your attention to a few nuances:

• The mineral mat cannot be fixed to the internal OSB board. Otherwise, using a self-tapping screw can damage the layer of penofol that is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
• Trimming the slabs, if necessary, is done using a sharp stationery knife or saws with fine teeth.
• After installing all the slabs, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the slabs with polyurethane glue from a can. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats together, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

1. I am installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run apart. The remaining rules are the same as in point 1. Do not forget to fill the seams between the slabs with polyurethane foam. After final hardening, the excess will need to be cut off with a sharp knife.

1. I install insulation into structural elements of complex shape. It is imperative to insulate all sections of the walls. Particularly difficult are usually the bevels, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the thermal insulation process is not yet over. External thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 — Installation of water and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences Usually a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is this:

1. A film is laid over the insulation layer. The material is secured to the frame beams using staples and a construction stapler. You can use carnations with wide heads:
   • Work should begin from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving upward.
   • The film panels must be placed horizontally.
   • Each subsequent sheet should overlap the previous one by a distance of 10 cm.

1. I seal the joints between the individual sheets. To do this, use adhesive tape, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, you should get a completely sealed sheet that protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer cladding and a draft blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
2. I stuff counter battens onto the polymer membrane. Here, a ventilation gap is simply required, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and secured to the frame using self-tapping screws.

1. I attach OSB boards to the slats. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about interior lining frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell in detail at this stage.

Step 5 - Finishing

Technology decorative finishing The design of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, it will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be secured to OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use for example vinyl siding, OSB boards can not be used at all, but the lamellas can be attached to a profile mounted on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To make it comfortable to stay in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the thermal energy losses occur through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly tell you how to thermally insulate this surface:

1. Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The backing will not experience a large load, so it is enough to secure the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances on the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the backing.
2. Secure penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about the technology of wall insulation.
3. Screw the sheathing bars. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the overall thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
4. Decorate the ceiling surface with clapboard. It is attached with clamps or self-tapping screws.
5. Install insulation from the attic side. Mineral wool is placed in the spaces between the beams attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is insulating the floor with your own hands. The technology is practically no different from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

• the vapor barrier film is placed on the side of the living room, and the waterproofing is below;
• as flooring a tongue and groove board is used, which is placed on the counter-lattice;
• if it is impossible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be laid on the cranial bars, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read the separate material on floor insulation.

Summary

The technology described above talks about the thermal insulation of a wooden home from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!