Do-it-yourself putty on walls in a new building. How to putty walls with minimal effort and maximum effect. Applying finishing putty

Despite the wide range of modern finishing materials, decorating walls with wallpaper does not lose popularity. But it is absolutely pointless to carry out such finishing on unprepared surfaces, and in order for it to be of truly high quality, mandatory leveling work is required. Do-it-yourself puttying of walls under wallpaper is carried out in approximately the same sequence as. However, much of the work will depend on the initial quality of the surface being tidied up, as well as on what specific wallpaper it is planned to decorate it with.

For example, “liquid wallpaper” does not require perfectly smooth walls, since their texture successfully hides small flaws. If the wallpaper is thin, then, just like paint, it will show all the dents and protrusions that were on the wall.

This process should not be taken lightly. Curvature of walls or their uneven, rough surface is a common occurrence even in apartments of houses built from concrete panels. And such walls no less require careful preparation before painting or wallpapering.

Why do you need to putty the walls?

The putty is intended for filling not only large, but even microscopic surface defects, since the granularity of its mass is many times smaller than that of plaster compositions.

This repair and leveling material is capable of creating a perfectly smooth surface, on which it will be much easier to stick wallpaper than on a plastered wall, and minor flaws will not show through the structure of the finish.

If the walls of the apartment are covered with plasterboard sheets, and they, in turn, are planned to be finished with wallpaper, then applying putty is also extremely necessary, although it would seem that the surface is already quite smooth. The fact is that if you paste wallpaper directly onto drywall, then when you remove it during subsequent repairs, the finishing material will most likely be removed along with the cardboard layer, and then the wall will require more serious repairs than conventional puttying.

The entire process of leveling walls for wallpaper can be divided into two stages:

• Applying a starting putty, which will fill all the holes and microcracks on the wall, and also level out minor surface unevenness. This layer can have a thickness of up to 3 ÷ 5 mm.
• The second layer is applied with a finishing compound of putty - this will make the wall perfectly smooth. The thickness of such a layer can be no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.

Tools and materials for work

What tools will you need?

For successful work To level the wall, you need to prepare high-quality tools:

Tools for wall filling work

• The rule will be required to level the applied starting putty in case of large curvatures of the wall, since in different areas the layer of finishing material will be different.
• A mixer attachment will be necessary for mixing the putty.
• An electric drill with an attachment installed in the chuck - mixer.
• Set of spatulas with different sizes and shapes. These are straight, even spatulas with a width of 50 to 500 mm, and a standard corner spatula for removing external and internal corners.

The working surface of all tools must be perfectly flat and smooth. If there are even the slightest flaws on the spatula blades, they will certainly affect the quality of the surface being leveled. Spatulas are not such an expensive tool, so it often makes sense to purchase new ones for critical work.

• Grater - for rubbing and smoothing the wall surface. The grater can have a replaceable coating - abrasive mesh, sandpaper, genuine leather, etc.
• Construction level - for constant monitoring of the verticality of the leveled wall.
• Roller - used mainly for applying primer, but sometimes, to speed up the work, it can also be used to apply the first layer of putty, which is then leveled with a spatula.
• Containers for mixing the solution and for water. The latter will be needed for soaking tools during work.
• Medium width brush - for applying primer in areas of the wall that are difficult to reach with a roller.

Necessary materials

List necessary materials- quite small, and consists of the following items:

• Two types of putty – starting and finishing.
• To protect walls from the possible occurrence of microflora colonies, it is recommended to use primers with antiseptic additives.

• When applying putty to a wall covered with , you will need a serpyanka mesh tape to reinforce the joints between the sheets.
• If the wall has large differences and unevenness, for example, large holes, sinkholes or chips are found on it, then in this case it will be necessary to prepare a repair composition. It could be cement-sand mortar or special polymer-based putties. They will serve for initial leveling and filling of defects, and only after such preparation can the putty mixture be applied.

Putty compounds

Compounds for putty work are sold in specialized stores in a ready-to-use state or in the form of dry construction mixtures, which require independent preparation.

Ready-made putties are factory packaged in plastic buckets. They are extremely convenient to use - they do not require separate containers and do not require a mixer for final preparation. Using them, you can interrupt work at any time by closing the standard bucket with a lid, and the mixture will not dry out. The mixture you prepare yourself must be used completely, otherwise it will harden quite quickly and become unsuitable for application to walls.

Paste putty is produced on latex, polymer, oil-adhesive and other bases. Despite all its advantages, many are put off by the high price, which is why most craftsmen are accustomed to using dry building mixtures.

Variety of selection of dry construction mixtures - putties

Since the material is applied in at least two layers, you need to purchase a starting and finishing putty. They differ from each other in the granularity of the powder from which the mass is made. The starting putty consists of coarser mixtures and creates good adhesion for the finishing layer.

The finishing putty is made from fine gypsum powder, and if the mixing rules and application technology are followed, it can create an absolutely smooth surface, suitable for both painting and wallpapering.

It should be noted that sometimes universal compounds are used to putty walls, suitable for applying both the starting and finishing layers, that is, such a solution can be applied in several stages.

The characteristics of some popular putty compositions are given in the table:

Indicator name	Standards for putty brands
	Coupling solution LS 10/90	Leveling solution			Finishing mortar Fine Coat 50/50	Thermonite putty	Putty for blocks
		LS 35/65	LS 50/50	LS 65/35
Recommended thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10
Recommended water consumption, l/25 kg	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	4÷5	5.5÷6	6÷7
Ultimate compressive strength, MPa, not less	16	8	4	2	4	6	20
Bending strength, MPa, not less	2	2	1	1	1	3	3
Adhesion (adhesion) to the base, MPa, not less	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5
Average density of solution kg/m3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900
pH indicator	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13

When choosing and buying putty, you must pay attention to the instructions and the expiration date - this information is located on the packaging. If the guaranteed shelf life of the material has already expired, then this composition should not be used, since the solution may not have sufficient adhesion to the wall surface, and the putty will simply peel off from it.

If you purchase a dry mixture, you need to make sure that the packaging was stored in proper conditions. If the room where the putty was stored has high humidity, and clear signs of dampness are visible on the paper bags, then you should not buy this material, as it is unsuitable for use, even if the expiration date has not expired.

If you purchase both starting and finishing putties at the same time, it is recommended to choose materials from the same manufacturer. Such mixtures are maximally adapted to each other, and during the work they will show good adhesion - there will be no “surprises” from this side.

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

Preparing surfaces for putty

You cannot apply the putty solution to an unprepared wall surface that has an old coating, so you need to work very hard on it.

If wallpaper was previously glued to the wall, water-based or oil-based paint was applied, or a layer of plaster was applied, then these coatings should be removed.

Old coatings are removed in different ways:

• The wallpaper will come off the wall more easily if you moisten it with water several times using a roller until it is completely wet.

• Oil or enamel paint can be removed using construction hair dryer and a scraper, or a grinder with a brush attachment.
• The plaster is removed using different instruments, depending on its thickness. If a thin layer is applied, then it, just like wallpaper, can be soaked and removed with a spatula. The thick layer is removed using a hammer and chisel, or using a hammer drill with a special chisel attachment.

When the wall is freed from old coatings, unevenness and cracks that have formed during the operation of the house will definitely be found on it. Identified surface defects must be repaired and protrusions knocked down. Sealing cracks is required because the putty applied on top of them will crack when dry and exactly follow the direction of these flaws, which means that the work will be done in vain.

Wall repairs are carried out in the following sequence:

• The cracks are widened and deepened using a chisel and hammer. You need to widen the gap as deep as possible in order to fill it with a repair compound, which will become part of the wall and will not allow the flaw to appear through the putty.

• Extended cracks must be well cleaned of dust and crumbled plaster residues. A soft brush is perfect for this purpose. small size or a damp sponge.

• Then, the entire depth of the crack must be covered several times with a primer. It is important that all inner surface defect, and then well dried.

• Next, the cut crack or shell is forcefully filled with a repair compound. Sometimes you can use starter putty for this, and some builders prefer to use sealant. If a very deep defect has formed due to the expansion of a crack, then in some cases it is recommended to first fill it with polyurethane foam.
• After the repair “patches” have dried, you must go over the surface with a grater with a large abrasive mesh or sandpaper with large grains. The polyurethane foam is cut level with the wall surface.
• If, then all the joints between the sheets are glued with a serpyanka mesh, over which they pass the starting putty on top. In addition, it also fills all the recesses from the caps. To fastening screws, otherwise rust yellow-brown spots will appear through the wallpaper.

• After complete drying of all repair and preparatory materials, the entire surface of the walls must be coated with a primer with an antiseptic effect. The primer will increase adhesion between materials and significantly increase the service life of the decorative finish.

The primer is applied using a roller, but it is very important that the corners of the room are treated with it, since this is where mold stains appear first.

To make work more convenient, the primer is poured into a special plastic tray, into which it is easier to immerse the roller. A roller will allow you to quickly and efficiently prime large areas of walls, but the corners of the room will have to be thickly treated with a brush.

The primer applied to the walls must dry well. If it is very quickly absorbed into the surface, it is recommended to carry out a similar treatment two or even three times - each next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Puttying walls under wallpaper with your own hands - step by step

Making putty from dry construction mixture

The packaging with the dry mixture always contains instructions for making the solution, so in order for it to be the correct consistency and homogeneous in composition, you must strictly follow all the recommendations. In appearance, the mass should be similar to fairly thick sour cream.

Mixing the putty proceeds as follows:

• Pours into a plastic bucket required quantity water at room temperature.

A 25 kg bag of putty will require about 9 ÷ 10 liters of water, but you should not make a solution from the entire mass at once, especially if you choose a gypsum-based material, since it hardens quite quickly and you simply may not have time to use the entire prepared mixture. Putty is prepared from ⅓ or ½ of the total mass of the package, but even in this case you need to work quite quickly. The time for using the mixed material is also necessarily indicated on the packaging.

• Next, the dry mixture is poured into the prepared water in portions and mixed using a mixer attachment. It is necessary to achieve an absolutely uniform consistency, with a complete absence of lumps or loose water. Special attention- areas at the junction of the bottom and walls of the container - unmixed dry mixture “likes” to remain there, which can cause a lot of inconvenience already in the process of filling work.

The main task is to achieve ideal purity, uniformity of the resulting composition and a consistency convenient for performing work.

• It is very important, after using the first batch of your own mixed solution, to thoroughly clean and rinse the container and working tools before preparing the second batch. Otherwise, the next composition will be filled with small grains of already hardened solution, and they will greatly interfere with the work, leaving grooves on the leveled surface.

Coating the wall with starting putty

• The starting leveling compound is applied to the prepared wall surface with a wide spatula. An auxiliary tool for this procedure is a medium-width spatula, with which the putty is taken from the container and applied to the wide one.

• Next, starting from the corner of the room, with smooth movements, the putty is distributed over the surface of the wall with a thickness of 1.5 ÷ 3 mm. A thickness of 3 mm is permissible in recesses and places that need to be brought into one plane.

It is recommended to hold the wide spatula, which is used to apply the mixture to the wall, at an angle of 45°. This position of the spatula will help to avoid marks from its corners, which are often left on the surface.

• The putty is applied to the wall in overlapping strips, that is, they should overlap each other by 60 ÷ 80 mm.
• Having finished applying the solution to a certain part of the wall, you need to check the evenness of the applied layer. This is done as follows: the rule is to rub it over the putty-coated surface, and it will collect excess mixture, revealing areas that require additional application of the composition.

In addition, to identify the remaining irregularities, many experienced craftsmen work is carried out by illuminating the surface using a light bulb or spotlight installed at an angle. The light will help create a shadow from the flaws made - they will be easier to detect and correct. Alignment is carried out according to not dry surfaces

• The most difficult areas to level are the corners of the room, so to shape them perfectly, a corner trowel was created to make the job much easier.

A particularly difficult task is the perfect placement of corners

• When applying the starting layer, you must strive to ensure that, as far as possible, . But, unfortunately, this is extremely difficult to achieve, and minor surface irregularities are allowed in the first layer, which will be eliminated by the top finishing layer.
• Having completed the application of the starting putty and without waiting for it to dry completely, it is necessary to rub the surface. This process is carried out hand grater, and if possible - with an electric grinder. This tool will help smooth the surface and even remove shallow streaks left by the spatula.

Grouting is carried out in a circular motion counterclockwise, trying not to miss a single area of ​​the surface.

• The finished, rubbed wall should be checked with backlight, and if significant depressions of 2–3 mm are detected, a second layer, also made from starting putty, is usually applied to the first layer. It should be taken into account that the repeated correction layer can not be applied to the entire wall, but only to its individual areas with defects found on them.

The second layer is also smoothed using troweling tools.

Final layer of putty

• If the goal is to bring the wall surface to the level of eggshell smoothness, which is especially necessary for gluing thin wallpaper, you cannot do without lighting from several sources when applying the finishing layer. If during the initial finishing it is enough to limit control using the rule, then the finishing layer requires a more careful approach.

Light sources are installed in different parts of the room, so that their rays intersect on the wall and show any accidentally formed errors.

• The finishing layer solution is prepared and applied according to the same principle as the starting one. However, its thickness should not be more than one to two millimeters. Therefore, the mixture applied to a wide spatula is carefully “stretched” along the surface of the wall with slight pressure using precise, precise movements from the bottom up, from the corner.
• Unlike the starting putty, the finishing putty must be applied in two layers, and the second can be applied only after the first has completely dried.

Each of the finishing layers must be rubbed down, but fine-grain sandpaper is used to smooth the first one, and a suede or leather attachment is used for the final one.

• The corners of the room are also finished with angular or flat rubber spatula, which will gently smooth out all the burrs from the putty and remove its excess.
• Having completed the application of the finishing layer and carried out the grouting work, you need to wait until the surfaces have completely dried, and then cover them with one or two layers of primer.

• Decorative finishing is done after the primer has completely dried.

We continue our series of articles about do-it-yourself wall putty. Today we'll talk about puttying ordinary walls- brick or panel (but not plasterboard), although the process diagrams are similar.

Classification and types of putties

Putties are classified into gypsum, cement and polymer.

Disadvantages and advantages of each type.

1. On a gypsum basis: They are low cost, they are perfectly leveled and do not shrink. The disadvantage here is their low resistance to moisture, which limits their scope of application. Gypsum wall putties should be used in dry rooms, and their use in rooms with high humidity or with a large temperature difference is unacceptable. The cost of one bag (20 kg) averages from 250 rubles.
2. Cement: They have a high degree of resistance to moisture, but their degree of shrinkage is just as high. This requires re-puttying. Such mixtures can be used in rooms with high humidity, such as the kitchen or bathroom.(read the article about puttying walls under wallpaper). Cement wall putties become stronger when dry, but over time they lose their elasticity, which can lead to the appearance of microcracks. The price for this type of putty starts from about 200 rubles/bag (25 kg).
3. Polymer: have a lot of advantages: they perfectly resist moisture, do not shrink, and allow you to achieve high quality treated surfaces. The only disadvantage here can be considered the high cost - starting from 290 rubles / bag (20 kg).
4. Leveling: designed for leveling walls after applying plaster. They have a high grain size, good strength and excellent adhesion to the surface. Recommended layer thickness is from 3 to 20 mm. Price: from 230 rub./bag (20kg).
5. To obtain a perfectly smooth surface and eliminate small flaws after leveling the walls, use finishing mixtures. They are inferior in strength to leveling putties. Applying them is not difficult. Recommended layer up to 4mm. Cost from 280 rubles/bag (20kg).
6. Universal mixtures combine the properties of finishing and leveling wall putty, but at the same time cost more - from 320 rubles/bag (20 kg). They are used on surfaces with minor imperfections, because... The quality is somewhat inferior to both types.

In addition to the composition putties are divided into leveling, finishing (for example, for last stage putty) and universal.

Putties are available in dry form, as well as in the form of ready-made mixtures. Dry putties last much longer and are much cheaper than ready-made mixtures.

They are produced in special bags. Their preparation is not labor-intensive: the powder is simply diluted with water using a special mixer in accordance with the instructions on the package. Of course, use ready-made composition much more convenient. However, if the applied layer is less than 2 mm, then such mixtures cannot be used. They also shrink a lot. Ready-made putty compositions are produced in special plastic buckets.

Which putty should I choose to putty the walls?

When asked which putty to choose for walls under wallpaper, we can say that when choosing putty you should take into account the working conditions, the quality of the surface being treated and the desired result. To purchase quality material, you should make purchases in branded construction stores.

You shouldn’t go to all sorts of markets to save money. This is where the risk of purchasing counterfeit products is high. A simple tip when choosing putty: you should pay attention to the packaging date. It is applied with precision down to the second. If you notice that the entire batch is packed in an instant, then most likely it is better to refuse such a purchase.

In general, the shelf life of putty is from 6 to 12 months in dry rooms at room temperature. After the expiration date, the putty loses its properties - it stops setting quickly. When purchasing, you should pay attention not only to the date of manufacture, but also to the integrity of the packaging. Bags with dry mixture should not be damaged, and buckets with ready-made solution should be tightly closed.

Scheme of working with a grinding stone

Video instruction

Instructions: how to putty the walls yourself

To putty walls with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

1. A drill with a “mixer” attachment and a container for diluting the composition (required when using a dry mixture).
2. Set of spatulas: small, large, angled. When working, you have to deal with different areas of surfaces - each of them has its own spatula. Spatulas are available in sizes 20mm, 40, 60, 80, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800mm. Narrow ones up to 80mm are used for hard-to-reach places. Spatulas with a width of 80 and 100 mm are called stacking spatulas - they are used to take the mixture out of the bucket and apply it to a working spatula. Spatulas with a width of 200 and 300 mm are used to level out irregularities that are small in width and length. Wider spatulas are used to level highly curved surfaces.
3. Rollers or brushes. They are necessary for priming walls for putty. The primer should not be skipped, as this improves the adhesion of the mixture to the surface and improves the quality of work.
4. The rule is to need it in places where putty is applied in a thick layer. A long metal rule is convenient when leveling thick layers of putty from walls. The rules come in different lengths - 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m. The optimal rule is 2m long. However, it is better to choose a convenient size of the rule individually.
5. Level for setting test beacons (as for) before application starting putty walls Levels range in length from 20cm to 2.5m. For domestic purposes, it is not necessary to buy the largest one; a level of 0.5 m to 1 m is quite sufficient.
6. Sandpaper - to obtain a perfectly smooth surface. It is better to purchase sandpapers with a grain size from 60 to 100. Sandpaper 60 is suitable for the basic stage (you should not take less than 60, as it will be too rough), and fine sandpaper 100 for grouting the finishing layer (skin above 100 will become heavily clogged with dust). It is more convenient to grout the walls after puttying using a manual sander.

Preparing the wall surface

Falling layers of plaster should be removed

Before applying putty to the walls under the wallpaper, you should prepare the surface to be treated. It must be clean without any stains of grease, soot, paint, etc. Falling layers of plaster should be removed. It is strictly not recommended to start work if the walls or ceiling are frozen.

Before puttingty walls, it is necessary to apply a primer to improve adhesion. One coat of primer is enough.

Starting putty of the wall surface

Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly.

Starting putty is performed using coarse material (starting putty). This material is convenient to use when there are large differences in walls to hide unevenness and remove grooves and holes. The thickness of such a layer, applied at a time, can be up to 1.5 cm. To apply subsequent layers, you must wait until the previous one has dried.

If the differences in wall levels are more than 5 cm, then in this case, before applying the putty, the walls are plastered. Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly. Before applying plaster, the walls are primed with a special solution, and before each layer of plaster they are additionally sprayed with water. Apply the plaster with a special spatula with a sharp wave of the hand. For better adhesion with the subsequent layer, the first layer should be given a slight roughness. As a rule, all movements are performed from the bottom up. After applying the plaster, it is leveled according to the rule.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results. It is mounted on the wall (read a good article about), and putty (or plaster, if necessary) is applied on top. In this case, the putty adheres better, and the surface becomes much stronger and smoother. The painting mesh is attached to the first layer of putty without waiting for it to dry. The prepared piece of mesh is pressed into the still wet layer of putty. After drying, a second layer of putty is applied. This way, the mesh remains in the middle of the leveling layer of putty. The tensile strength of such a layer increases significantly, which helps to avoid the appearance of cracks.

The finishing putty is applied very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks.

How to putty: final stage

After completing the starting stage, finishing putty must be applied to the wall. Its main goal is to make the surface perfectly smooth and beautiful. If the starting putty was performed poorly, then using finishing mixture it will not be possible to correct the situation. The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks. Therefore, before finishing, you should achieve a perfectly flat surface.

To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula.

1. When using a dry mixture, it is necessary to properly prepare the solution. It should be smooth and slightly stick to the spatula.
2. Using a large spatula at an angle of 30°, apply the starting putty in small portions. The putty should be applied diagonally, overlapping each subsequent stroke to avoid transitions and bumps.
3. To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula. First, use a small spatula to apply the mixture over the entire height of the corner. Then, using a corner spatula, level the surface of the corner.
4. After the starting layer has completely dried, the finishing putty is applied using a small and large spatula. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture in small portions onto a large one and apply it evenly to the surface. Layer thickness is about 1.5 -2mm.
5. After the putty has completely dried (this takes about 12 hours), you can begin finishing sanding with fine sandpaper.

To putty walls with your own hands, it is important to carry out all stages of the work efficiently and responsibly. In this case, you can get excellent result and save a lot of money on your work.

Good luck with your renovation!

Wall putty is the final stage of preparing the base for wallpapering, painting or applying other decorative coatings. This event is aimed at maximizing the leveling of the surface, eliminating obvious defects, small chips, potholes and other imperfections in the rough finishing. Professional work taking into account the materials, they can cost a hefty sum, so many people try to putty the walls with their own hands. It should be noted that the technology of puttying walls is not particularly difficult, therefore, after studying the main principles and practicing a little on old walls, you will successfully cope with this task.

The feasibility of wall putty is due to the following reasons:

1. Wallpapering and painting require a perfectly smooth surface, otherwise all problem areas will be clearly visible under the coating. Putty allows you to effectively level the wall and avoid expensive and complex work on plaster.
2. The putty can be remade several times, applying repeated layers and eliminating even the slightest flaws on the walls. However, this will not affect the quality of the coating in any way.
3. Materials for puttying are affordable, available in a wide range and have low consumption.
4. To plaster complex relief structures made of plasterboard, you need to seek the help of professional finishers. With putty, things are different - you can do all the work yourself, saving your money.

Types of putty materials

Wall putty involves several basic principles on which the quality and appearance decorative finishing. First of all, you need to choose the right putty mixture. The main criteria are the base material, type of finishing coating, size and purpose of the room, temperature conditions and humidity indicators.

The building materials market offers a wide variety of mixtures. Let's look at the most common types of putties.

Type of putty	Characteristics	Areas of use
Oil-adhesive	The cheapest putty. Improves the waterproofing properties of the coating, protects against the effects of steam and increases the resistance of the structure to destruction. It is not used for wallpapering or painting with any paints other than oil paints, since it is quickly absorbed into the walls and appears as stains.	Technical (non-decorative) wall cladding in basements, sheds and closets. Finishing of wooden plastered walls.
Cement	It is highly resistant to moisture and durable. Due to its low elasticity, it shrinks after drying, which can result in cracks appearing in the finish.	Tiling of bathrooms, kitchens and toilets. Finishing of technical and unheated premises.
Plaster	Not resistant to high humidity and temperature changes, absorbs moisture, as a result of which the coating begins to swell and fall off from the base. It is characterized by high plasticity, therefore it qualitatively levels any surface even when applying one layer.	Interior decoration of rooms with normal humidity levels, in particular living rooms, corridors, offices, etc.
Polymer	Most often used as a finishing putty to eliminate microcracks in the starting layer. It is characterized by high elasticity and ease of use, which significantly reduces labor costs and material consumption.	Finishing of premises with cement, plastered and plasterboard walls. Decorative finishing of living rooms, where thin coatings and delicate artistic work are expected.

Required materials and tools

Puttying walls with your own hands is a responsible and time-consuming undertaking, before starting which you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• mixtures for starting and finishing putty;
• composition for priming walls;
• containers for mixing putty (if the mixture is dry) and working with primer;
• paint roller, narrow and wide brushes for applying primer solution to hard-to-reach areas, for example, corners and places behind radiators;
• spatulas: a narrow tool for taking the mixture from a container, a wide one for applying putty to the walls, a corner tool for leveling the layer of mixture on the outer and inner corners;
• building rule for controlling the evenness of the base;
• a trowel for smoothing a layer of putty over a large area;
• a lamp or lamp to identify poorly aligned sections of the wall;
• electric Grinder or hand grater for grouting dried surfaces;
• a drill and a special “mixer” attachment for thoroughly mixing the putty.

Important! Without a drill with an attachment, it will be almost impossible to obtain the desired consistency from the dry mixture. Therefore, if you do not have this tool, it is best to purchase a ready-made one.

VIDEO: how to putty walls for a beginner

Starting puttying of walls

Standard wall puttying technology involves starting and finishing treatment. The starting coating is used for the initial leveling of the wall, to process joints and seams in drywall, to close the screw heads and to fill large potholes, cracks and other irregularities. At the initial stage, the wall must be cleaned of particles of dirt, dust, grease stains and remnants of the old finish, and then left for some time until completely dry. Before applying the putty, the base is primed so that the next layers adhere tightly to the wall and do not peel off after drying.

Advice! When preparing for puttying, experts recommend using a reinforcing mesh - the material will adhere better to the walls, and the risk of cracks is significantly reduced.

All chips, cracks, differences and significant irregularities are sealed with starting putty.

Starting wall putty is performed with a mixture with a coarse-grained structure, which is specially designed for basic rough processing and is most often sold in dry form. After applying this composition, the surface becomes smooth, but has a porous texture, so in most cases it requires.

Using the rule, you need to check the evenness of the wall - you need to see how evenly the tool adheres to the base. If the wall is relatively flat, then the mixture is applied in large, sweeping strokes, and the spatula should always be pressed against the wall at the same angle.

In areas with large depressions, slides or other deviations from the level, the putty is applied in a thick layer, after which it is pulled over the entire surface using a trowel. This must be done until the wall is level. After the starting layer has hardened, the surface must be thoroughly sanded to eliminate tool marks, splashes and sagging.

In what cases to use reinforcing mesh

Most often, puttying walls with reinforcing mesh is required when there are significant differences in the base. The serpyanka mesh makes the leveling process more efficient and accurate. The result is a high-quality and durable base, suitable for further finishing works, in addition, the risk of cracks on painted walls is significantly reduced.

The reinforcing mesh is fixed to the surface using glue, which must first be applied with a roller or brush. The mesh is pressed tightly against the wall and coated with glue containing outside. After the glue has completely dried, you can begin to putty.

Another way to fix the serpyanka is to press it onto a previously applied wet layer of putty, level it and putty on top with another layer. For beginners, the first method is more preferable, since it does not involve any special difficulties.

Corner processing

Puttying walls in hard-to-reach places, such as external and internal corners, is done using an angle spatula. For external corners Special perforated overlays are used, which are embedded in a previously applied layer of putty. After the mixture has dried, final processing is performed on both sides of the joint. To do this, the mixture is applied to both sides of the corner and leveled vertically using a corner tool, while trying not to leave grooves.

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A solution is also applied to the inner corner, the excess of which must be removed as a rule. The mixture is leveled with an angled spatula using longitudinal movements. In this case, it is recommended to control the plane using a building level. If necessary, the operation can be repeated with a smaller amount of putty mixture, and then proceed to the main finishing work.

Applying finishing putty

Finishing wall putty is the final stage of surface preparation before applying the final coating. At this stage, the same procedure is used as for the initial treatment - priming the base, applying putty mixture and grinding. The material used is a composition with a fine grain fraction, which eliminates microcracks after the tool, pores and other minor defects. As a result of the finishing process, a smooth and even surface is obtained, on which even thin wallpaper can be glued and paints of light shades can be applied.

Using finishing putty, the walls are perfectly even for further painting or wallpapering.

Final puttying of walls involves the following nuances:

• the mixture is applied to the base using top-down movements in a thin layer of 1-2 mm, while the tool must always be pressed against the wall at an angle of 20°;
  Important! If the putty layer is thicker than 5 mm, after drying the coating may crack and crumble.
• before each new sampling of material, it is necessary to thoroughly wipe the instrument with a wet sponge to remove dried particles;
• for thick wallpaper one layer will be enough, but for thin wallpaper or painting you will have to apply 2-3 layers;
• the finishing mixture dries for about 36-48 hours, after which it is necessary to carefully sand the surface until a smooth plane is formed.

Unevenness and roughness left behind by the tool, as well as strips from the spatula at corner joints, are easily eliminated at the grinding stage, so they do not require re-application of the material. If you plan to paste thick wallpaper, you can skip sanding.

If you decide to putty the walls with your own hands and not resort to the help of a specialist, then in this article you will find a lot for yourself useful information. Let's figure out how to properly putty walls for wallpaper and painting. The matter is certainly not simple and requires skill, but we will try to understand as much as possible the question “how to putty walls?” I will not teach you how to hold a spatula or how to move it in any special way; you will learn all this yourself in the process of work. If any question is not covered, do not hesitate to ask it in the comments.

What is putty

Putty is a finishing material used for leveling minor defects and creating a uniform surface structure. Mainly consists of gypsum, acrylic and polymer materials.

Why putty the walls?

The walls are puttied in order to remove and level out minor surface defects and improve adhesion. Putty performs very well the function of preparation for finishing. In addition to its leveling qualities, the putty is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and can be easily processed or sanded.

Putty or putty, which is correct?

Especially for those who argue over correct spelling. In dictionaries, the words putty and putty have the same lexical meanings, so both options are correct. But there is one thing, but... Most construction literature and official information sources use the option (putty). It’s up to you to decide which option is more convenient for use, but still, it’s more fair to say – putty! But in this article, for certain reasons, I will use two options.

Types of putty for walls

And how to make the right choice when purchasing. First, let's figure out what types there are. Let us roughly divide the types of putties into 4 types. For convenience, we will consider them in this form:

• Starting
• Finishing
• Facade

To understand what kind of putty you need and in what quantity, you need to start from two factors:

1. What kind of surface is there
2. What kind of finish will there be at the finish?

All possible options Let's look at it below, but for now let's talk about the types of putty

Starting putty

Designed for rough leveling of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. The starting putty fills small and deep cracks well and does not shrink much when drying. The composition mainly includes gypsum and acrylic additives. It covers plastered surfaces well, and is well suited for preparing under wallpaper or fiberglass (cobwebs).

Finishing putty

Designed for final leveling of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. B consists mainly of polymers, so it does not have coarse grains. When filling deep scratches, it shrinks significantly after drying. It is used mainly on final layers in preparation for painting, decorative fine coatings. Well suited for fiberglass mesh reinforcement.

Putties for special applications

To this type we include all other varieties that will be useful to us in repairs. These are putties for sealing factory and non-factory drywall seams, for reinforcing and filling various joints and cracks. They dry quickly for ease of use, practically do not shrink, and have increased strength.

Facade putty

The scope of their application is clear from the name. It contains cement, so it has a greenish tint and is often called cement putty. It is used in damp rooms, loggias, basements and on facades. Frost-resistant when dried and has increased strength.

Which putty to choose

So, which putty to choose? A few words about the composition and frequently asked questions.

Selecting putty based on composition

Here I will tell you what putties come in composition and which of the above mentioned types I can classify them as. At the same time, I will answer frequently asked questions. I think everything will fall into place here.

Gypsum putty

The main composition is gypsum, the rest is plasticizers and all kinds of additives. Gypsum itself has a coarse fraction compared to other types of putties. Therefore, it belongs to the type of starting finishing materials, well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough decorative finishing.

Acrylic putty

Acrylic is such a multifaceted material that can be used in the production of putties of any kind, both starting dry and finishing in buckets. Acrylic putties are also widely used in wood processing of automobile bodies, etc. Therefore, it is probably not correct to use the term “acrylic putty” for a specific application. In this case, it can be either the start or the finish. Very often used in the production of wood putty.

Latex putty

Think about it, latex is rubber. Therefore, putty for finishing walls cannot be rubber; it simply contains a latex component. This putty is very flexible and can be used in damp areas, although it all depends on the manufacturer.

Polymer putty

Basically these are all finishing putties, except gypsum. Acrylic and vinyl are also polymers, so acrylic and vinyl putty can also be called polymer.

Dry putty for walls

This is a starting material, mainly gypsum and acrylic. Again, suitable for preparation under wallpaper, cobwebs and decorative materials.

Which putty to choose for painting

The wall is prepared for painting as follows:

If the plaster is on the wall - 2 layers of starting gypsum putty, prime, if necessary, glue cobwebs or reinforcing mesh and 3 layers of finished putty, grind and you’re done. If you are interested in specifics, then I use acryl-putz starting at the beginning and rotband pasta or sheetrock at the finish. This is about quality painting. If high-quality painting is not needed, then you can fill 3 layers with starting putty, grind and paint.

Which putty to choose for wallpaper

Under the wallpaper I use starting putty, which comes dry in bags. If we putty the plaster, then 3 layers of gypsum or acrylic starting putty are usually enough. I can recommend acryl-putz, prospectors, typhoon, knauf. (if they are sold in your regions). Pay attention to the price, cheap material almost always bad. We'll talk about how to putty walls under wallpaper a little later.

Start-finish putty

Positioned as a universal putty. Very well suited for preparing wallpaper, cobwebs and rough painting. This mixture is not suitable as a finishing putty for spider webs, and I also do not recommend it for finishing the painting of ceilings and slopes. The finishing putty should be prepared in polymer-based buckets, not dry. There are no universal putties that perform their function well everywhere.

The best finishing putty

For a long time working in the finishing industry, I tried to work with different brands. I used them in different conditions and on different surfaces. Concerning finishing putty then I can safely say that you need to take Knauf rotband pasta, sheetrock, Bostik finspakel (hardens very much) Finishing putty is often called “ready-made putty for walls”

Summing up the choice

A short selection of putty. For those who are too lazy to read the whole article, who just need to know the number of layers and what putty to buy:

Type of preparation	Work order
under the wallpaper	3 layers starting
for painting	2 layers starting, web, 3 layers finishing
under decorative coating rough	2 layers of starter, mesh reinforcement, 1 layer of starter
finely dispersed for decorative coating	2 layers starting, reinforcement, 3 layers finishing
slopes	2 start, web, 3 finish
GKL for painting	finishing of seams with special putties, cobwebs, 3 layers of finishing
GKL for wallpaper	finishing seams, finishing seams with finishing putty
loggia	3 layers of façade (if you really need to putty and it’s damp on the balcony)
basement	if it is very damp façade putty 3 layers.
bathroom	although not recommended, I use conventional technology, as in other rooms. But you can paint it with moisture-resistant paint.

We'll talk about this in more detail in the following chapters.

Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces

And so, how to calculate putty for walls... First, let's figure out what kind of surface we have, if these are plastered walls, then the consumption will increase significantly. Plasterboard walls will not require a lot of putty, but they will require a special putty for fugen and uniflot joints.

Putty consumption per m2

The average consumption of starting putty, indicated by the manufacturers, is 1kg-1.2kg per m2 of wall with a layer thickness of 0.6-3mm. Putty consumption per 1 m2 of wall is a very approximate parameter.

The consumption mainly depends on the characteristics of the wall (condition, porosity), and the experience of the “specialist” also plays an important role.

The consumption of finishing putty per m2 of wall is slightly less, 0.3-0.5 kg with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm. Again, it all depends on the surface being treated. For example, the consumption of putty on a cobweb will be significantly more than stated and will be approximately 0.5 kg per m2.

You won’t be able to calculate the exact amount of putty, so we take the average values, multiply by the number of layers (mm thickness) and multiply by the square footage of the walls. For example, if the total area of ​​the walls of a room is 40 m2 and we need to prepare it for wallpaper, then take the indicator 1 kg, multiply it by the number of layers (3 layers of 0.6 mm = 1.8 mm) and multiply by 40 m2

1kg*1.8mm*40m2= 72kg

One bag of putty usually weighs 25kg, so we need 3 bags of dry starting putty for a 40m2 room.

Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints “Fugenfüller” and “Uniflot”

I recommend sealing the factory seams with fugen knauf, and not the factory seams (cut) with uniflot. There are usually not so many non-factory seams, so we buy the smallest volume of “uniflot” 5 kg. As for factory seams, the consumption of “fugenfüller” is approximately 1 kg per 4 m2 of installed drywall.

How to putty walls (tool)

How to putty the walls? The main things we need from the tool:

• Spatula 10 cm
• Spatula 35 cm or metal grater, smoother.
• Mixer, whisk
• Roller and brush for primer
• Grinding grater, sandpaper
• Masking tape, knife, blades
• Water container
• Lighting, spotlight
• Vacuum cleaner

Paying attention! All spatulas, smoothers, handles for rollers must be non-rusting. This way they will serve you much longer and there will be no problems with rusty spots there won't be any on the walls

Preparation for putty

Any leveling of walls with putty begins with preparation. Preparing the wall is a very important stage; it will determine how well subsequent finishing materials will hold up. The surface must be well cleaned of debris, old wallpaper, and anything that does not adhere well and crumbles. All nails and protruding mortar are removed if it is plaster.

Next comes the priming of the surface, the wall should be well soaked with a deep penetration primer and wait until it dries completely, it is advisable to wait at least four hours, or even better, continue working the next day. The primer must not only absorb and dry, but also polymerize.

How to remove old putty from walls

If you need to remove old putty because it doesn’t stick well, then a 10 cm spatula and, for example, a hatchet are enough. If the putty holds well, you can try to wet it several times with water. It’s good to write it down and try to remove it with a spatula again.

If the putty is well primed and is not removed or soaked, then there are only two options.

• Knock down with a hammer until the plaster is finished (you will need to plaster the surface later)
• The second option is to make notches with a hatchet, prime with a deep-penetrating primer, wait until it dries completely, and then cover the entire wall with primer (sandy soil)

Putty of various surfaces for different finishes

Puttying various surfaces is essentially the same process, the only difference is in the preparation and the number of layers. I’ll talk about the filling technique itself in another chapter, but in this one we’ll talk about preparation and the number of layers.

How to putty drywall

We’ll talk more about the puttying technology itself in the chapter “Do-it-yourself puttying of walls (step-by-step instructions).” We start by preparing the drywall. Preparation includes sealing the seams with sickle tape or paper tape. At this stage, we will need putty for a special application (this is mainly the application of sealing gypsum board seams). To seal factory gypsum board seams, we use knauf fugen. For non-factory seams we use knauf uniflot.

Primer of drywall before puttying

Apply the primer evenly to the wall using a roller, be sure to apply it evenly and without smudges, prime all seams and corners with a brush. Waiting for it to dry completely!

Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties

This is a special putty for drywall developed by Knauf, which practically does not shrink and performs its function very well. We glue serpyanka tape onto the factory seams, coat the factory seams with fugen knauf, and not the factory seams with uniflot knauf. If we use paper tape, then first coat the seams with putty, then glue the tape and use a spatula to push it deep into the layer. Non-factory seams should have expansion gaps, and the cardboard at the edges should be cut at 45 degrees on each side.

Read on the packaging how to properly knead fugenfüller. Please note that you need to knead only in clean water and only by hand.

Puttying drywall before wallpapering

We wait for the sealed seams to dry completely, clean 35 cm of excess and small sagging with a spatula. Mix the starting putty and go through all the seams again. We wait for it to dry completely, then we clean all the seams with coarse sandpaper 80P-100P. Then we prime the entire wall again.

Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering? Usually, the sealed seams should be enough for subsequent wallpapering (be sure to fill the seams with starting putty after fugen has dried). But, if you have very thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to putty the entire gypsum board wall with ready-made finishing putty in three layers. I recommend using knauf rotband paste or sheetrock finishing putty. We clean it with 140-180P abrasive, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and re-prime it.

Plasterboard putty for painting

The seams are sealed using the above method. The seams must be cleaned and the entire wall primed. For high-quality painting, we use cobwebs, glue them with Bostik glue (I wrote about this in the article about gluing cobwebs). Then we putty the cobwebs into three layers and sand them with 180-240R sandpaper. Instead of cobwebs, you can glue a painting mesh with a 2x2 cell.

If you are not very interested in quality, but want to save money, then you can simply clean the seams and paint with a long-nap roller. It will work out a little better if you putty on 2 more layers with finishing putty and clean it with 180 rubles.

Putty walls for painting

The technology itself for puttingtying walls for painting is no different from others, only the number of layers, the presence of reinforcing material (if the painting is high-quality), and the number of sandpaper when sanding the putty are different.

If the surface is plastered, then the sequence of work should look like this:

1. Preparation, priming
2. 2-3 layers of starting putty (depending on the quality of the plaster)
3. Rough sanding with 80R sandpaper
4. Dust off, prime
5. Fiberglass (cobweb) or reinforcing mesh is glued (glued to the finishing putty)
6. Then 2-3 layers of finishing putty
7. Grinding with sandpaper 180-240R
8. Remove dust, vacuum, prime (white primer)

Fiberglass putty before painting

Many people wonder whether it is possible to putty fiberglass? Essentially, these are glass wallpapers and many people simply paint them, but I’ll tell you that this is complete nonsense. Practice shows that it is not only possible to putty on cobwebs, but also necessary!

Here only ready-made wall putty (finish) will be used. We putty the first layer of putty “to tear it off”, smooth the putty into all the pores of the web in different directions and completely remove it. We putty under good lighting, making sure that there are no gaps. We try not to move the spatula for too long; if the web is of poor quality, it will get wet and drag on the spatula. The next two applications of putty are applied in a thin, neat layer.

How to properly putty walls under wallpaper

Puttying walls under wallpaper - one hundred most simple preparation, In my opinion. No reinforcement is required if the wallpaper is thick; finishing putty is not even required. Easily rubbed with coarse sandpaper. The main thing is to follow the minimum technology, which I will describe below.

1. Clean and dust the wall
2. Large holes and cracks are sealed separately
3. The first layer is applied
4. After drying, the wall is cleaned with a spatula to remove excess debris.
5. Apply 2 layers
6. Cleaned with sandpaper 100-120R
7. Removes dust
8. Prime with white primer and wait for it to dry completely.

I recommend buying thick non-woven wallpaper, they are easier to apply and better hide small nuances of the walls. Finishing putty for wallpaper is needed if the wallpaper is very thin and any defects will be visible. This also applies to photo wallpapers; it is also advisable to use finishing putty under them.

Puttying concrete walls

putty concrete walls without plaster is acceptable in panel houses with relatively smooth walls; in other cases, plastering of the surfaces is required. It is enough to prepare well, remove all excess from the wall, and prime it. Then, using 3 layers of starting putty, prepare it for the wallpaper.

Putty on penoplex (how to putty on penoplex)

I don’t know what kind of situation a person must have in order for him to need to putty penoplex, but we often receive such questions in the mail. Most likely, a person does not understand what putty is and has no idea how penoplex is finished. Or maybe he just needs to finish the facade, or the loggia, and he calls it all penoplex putty... I don’t know, but I’ll write a few words about this.

Penoplex cannot be puttied with materials for interior decoration, but in this article, we're talking about exactly about her. Consider the option of a loggia, for example, we have it insulated with polystyrene foam, timbered and we need to prepare the surface for painting.

We cover all the holes and dowel-nail heads with insulation glue. Gluing facade mesh, we rub everything with plaster. After complete drying, prime. Now the walls can be filled with cement façade putty. Personally, I recommend not to putty with cheap facade mixtures, but in this case it is best to use decorative plaster(for example, 1.5mm pebble)

The façade putty must be rubbed down immediately after complete drying. If you wait a couple of days, the emery abrasive will not take it.

Putty on plastered walls

The plastered wall needs to be thoroughly cleaned with a 35cm spatula, removing all sagging and everything that crumbles. Then you should prime the entire wall well and wait until it dries completely. If we are preparing it for wallpaper, then we apply 3 layers of starting putty. We coat all the cracks well with the first layer, fill in all the unevenness of the plaster, often this first layer is called “scraping putty.” Then follow 2 layers approximately 1mm thick. After drying, grind and prime (if under wallpaper). If it is for painting, then we prepare the wall further; I will describe it in more detail in the chapter “putty for painting”

Is it possible to putty over paint?

It is not advisable to putty on paint. If you need to putty acrylic paint, then you first need to make sure that it holds well, then prime it well and wait until it dries completely. Now it is permissible to fill it with several layers of finishing putty.

If you need to putty oil paint and there are no other options, then you need to cover it with sandy primer (for example, Caparol Putzgrund 610), after which you can putty the surface in several layers. I repeat, it is not advisable to putty the paint; it is recommended to remove it.

Putty without plaster

If you don’t want to level the walls with plaster, but simply putty the walls with your own hands and stick wallpaper, then first check how crooked the walls are. This can be done using a level or a rule. If the distortions are not very large and the quality of the wallpaper is of little interest to you, then you can simply putty on 3 layers and sand with coarse sandpaper 80R. We use only starting putty.

How to putty a balcony (loggia)

Such cold rooms are usually finished with facade materials, so facade putty is suitable for us. The facade putty contains cement, so it has a fairly large fraction. I recommend using high-quality, expensive material (for example, Caparol). Cheap - when rubbed with sandpaper, it becomes stained and behaves poorly when applied. If you need to decorate a loggia, it is better to use decorative plaster on the walls.

Do-it-yourself wall putty (step-by-step instructions)

Here we will talk about how to putty walls with your own hands step by step. We have already talked about preparing different surfaces, etc. In subsequent chapters, we’ll look at the putty technology itself in a little more detail and talk again about preparation for wallpaper, painting, and learn how to apply putty correctly.

We carry out work in dry rooms with temperatures from +5 to +25. The material is transported at the same temperature.

Step 1: preparing the walls

I already wrote about the preparation of walls above in the chapter “preparation for putty”; here I will repeat myself a little so as not to confuse everything even more. We clean the walls with a 35cm spatula (preferably an old one). After such cleaning, the spatula is not very suitable for subsequent putty. We clean the corners well, often after plastering the corners are slightly rounded. Pay attention to the connection to the ceiling and floor. The plane must be flat and neatly adjacent to adjacent walls and the ceiling.

Step 2: priming the walls before puttying

Which primer is best? The soil should be coarse, I recommend Caparol Tiefgrund, ceresit st17. Although any concentrated deep impregnation primer is not bad. We dilute the primer according to the instructions, pour it into a bucket or bath and use a brush to saturate all the corners and junctions of the wall. Then, using a roller, apply primer to all surfaces that require puttying. The walls are primed for putty evenly. We wait for complete drying from four hours, but preferably a day.

Step 3: how to thin the putty

Pour approximately 2 liters of clean water into a bucket and add 5 kg of dry putty (all figures depend on the manufacturer). Then use a mixer or a whisk with a drill, mix everything until smooth. If necessary, add water or putty to achieve the desired thickness. If you take the putty on a 10cm spatula and turn it over, it should not flow down. Also, the solution should not be very thick, but rather elastic. After the first stirring, wait 3-4 minutes and stir again. After which the solution is ready for use. The solution should resemble thick sour cream.

If you need to putty with a ready-made finishing putty, I recommend adding 0.5 liters of clean water to a 10 liter bucket and mixing with a mixer. The putty will become more elastic and more convenient to apply.

Step 4: putty technology

Finishing and starting putty are applied in essentially the same way, the only difference is in the thickness of the application.

How to apply putty

If there are large potholes and cracks on the wall, then we putty them in advance and wait until everything dries. Then we apply the putty in an even layer on a 35cm spatula and, starting from the corner, begin to apply the putty on the wall. If the wall is plastered, then after application we remove the putty “scraping” with a spatula so that the first layer penetrates only into all small cracks and irregularities.

Don’t forget that we are leveling the walls with putty, so we try to fill all the holes and small irregularities

After the first layer has dried, we clean the wall again with a spatula to remove particles of excess putty, sand from plaster and other debris. Then we evenly apply the second layer of putty, but we do not remove it completely, but apply approximately a 0.5 mm layer; in places of unevenness, the layer can reach up to 5 mm.

We must putty with good lighting, preferably under a spotlight or light bulb.

The third layer can be applied without waiting for the second layer to dry completely. We apply each layer in different directions so that the final movement of the spatula does not coincide with the direction of the next one. The third layer can be applied generally in a fan-like manner, smoothing with arc-shaped movements.

Please note: reverse side spatula. Periodically remove dry particles of putty and debris from it.

How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)

Wash your instrument frequently to prevent it from becoming completely overgrown. To do this, you need to have a bucket of water and dish sponges on hand.

The finished finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting putty (described above). We try to apply a thinner layer. Be sure to putty the walls so that there is good lateral illumination. Finishing putty has the property of strong shrinkage, so it is better not to level it with layers of 2-3 mm.

Step 5: how to putty corners

Puttying the corners of the walls is an important step; you need to make sure that the corners are well filled with putty and that dark empty cracks do not show through.

Internal corner

The inner corner of the adjacent ones is puttied alternately. First, one wall, wait for it to dry completely, remove excess putty particles from the corner with a spatula, then putty the adjacent wall.

Outside corner

IN modern renovations, perforated corners have long been used for painting works aluminum ones are used. They are leveled; after drying, the corner should be pulled off on both sides with putty. (I recommend pulling the fugen knauf, it gives a little shrinkage)

Puttying drywall corners

The inner corner of the gypsum board is glued with sickle tape or special paper tape and pulled back with “uniflot” or “fugen” putty. If you use sickle tape, then thoroughly press the putty into the seams of the drywall. If the tape is paper, then the seams are filled before applying the tape, the excess putty is pressed through and removed with a spatula. Outer corner it is also placed on the “fugenfüller” and pulled out on both sides. (in some cases the corner is pulled twice)

Reinforcement

Reinforcement during putty usually occurs at the stage when our wall is puttied in 1-3 layers. Reinforcement such as painting mesh and cobwebs protects the wall only from small cracks. In addition to the reinforcing effect, the web creates a uniform surface and smoothes out minor irregularities.

Cobweb (fiberglass)

In one of the articles, I described detailed technology gluing the web, so I’ll describe it briefly here.

1. 2-3 layers of starting putty, sanded with 80P sandpaper\
2. Prime and wait for it to dry completely
3. Apply glue with a roller (I recommend glue from Bostik or Oskar)
4. Fiberglass is applied and smoothed with a spatula
5. Reapply a layer of glue with a roller
6. Smooth it out with a 35cm spatula, as if we were putting it with glue.
7. Subsequent strips of fiberglass are glued end-to-end, or cut with a knife at the joints

Painting mesh

Autumn protects walls well from small cracks, great for preparing for painting or decorative types finishing.

1. 1-2 layers of starting putty (wait for complete drying
2. Cleaning the wall with a spatula
3. Apply the mesh and smooth the top with finishing putty
4. Excess is trimmed with a paint knife
5. After which 2 more layers of finishing putty are applied

How long does it take for putty to dry on walls?

The putty dries in about 6 hours, it all depends on the temperature and humidity of the room. It is advisable to wait a day and then start sanding. It is not recommended to wait several days; some brands of putty harden greatly.

Sanding walls after puttying

So we figured out how to properly putty the walls, now we will answer the question of how to sand the walls after puttying. There is nothing complicated in grinding, there are only a few small nuances, which I will talk about now.
Hand sanding

In manual sanding, a “hand grater” is used - this is a tool for sanding walls after puttying; I recommend purchasing it from white plastic because black ones leave streaks in the corners when sanded. It is better to use sandpaper that is not the cheapest. The most important thing and the very first thing to say is to remember to use a respirator!

Sanding the walls after puttying occurs exclusively in circular movements and under the illumination of a spotlight!

If we use a household vacuum cleaner, there is a possibility of damaging the equipment. Therefore, we first remove large debris with a spatula and sweep. And we vacuum up the remaining dust.

Mesh for grouting putty

Personally, I don’t use mesh; the ones sold in my region are of poor quality and scratch the surface. As far as I know, it can be used with special graters that are connected to a vacuum cleaner. You only need to connect industrial devices, for example, bosch gas50.

Machine grinding

In my opinion, machine sanding is excellent for sanding under wallpaper, and requires some skill so as not to rub large holes. It is better to grind it by hand before painting. Machine sanding reduces labor costs, reduces dust, and speeds up the process. But you will need a grinding machine (preferably a special one for grinding walls) and a vacuum cleaner. All this can be rented if you need to grind large volumes.

Hello Dear blog readers! A huge number of people, before hanging wallpaper, wonder whether it is necessary to putty and prime the walls. Even, it seems, priming and puttying walls under wallpaper with your own hands is easy to do, but are they really important and necessary? Is it worth spending your time and money? This is exactly what we will talk about next.

Summary of this article:

Why is it necessary to putty the walls before wallpapering?

Puttying the walls before wallpapering is necessary, first of all, to completely level the base of the walls. Thanks to this procedure, the wallpaper will lie evenly when hung and after drying, small tubercles and other irregularities will not appear, unlike an unprepared surface.

Also, the transparency of some modern species wallpaper If the walls were not prepared for wallpapering, then after the glue dries, dark spots that were on the walls may be visible through the wallpaper, and they will visually destroy all your repair efforts.

As you know, wall putty mixtures presented on the construction market are mostly light in color, most often even white shade. It is this property that will protect the wallpaper from various types of translucency.

Then, plastering the walls gives a certain calm to the entire room, i.e. creates a good soundproofing effect (noise insulation).

In addition, putty walls create a strong, flat surface, with which the wallpaper will have the most reliable adhesion.

We must not forget about the good water resistance (waterproofing) of the walls after puttying. Putty walls repel moisture, which allows you to significantly save on wallpaper glue consumption when wallpapering.

Which is the best putty for walls under wallpaper?

Modern mixtures for puttying walls under wallpaper differ both in external characteristics and in their composition.

According to the external characteristics of wall putties, the division is as follows:

• Mixtures in the form of a paste, which come ready-made and do not require further preparation.

• Dry powder mixtures that require the addition of liquid during preparation.

According to their composition, mixtures for puttying walls under wallpaper are divided into:

• Polymer mixtures, or as they are also called acrylic (latex). They are easy to apply to the wall and can also be easily rubbed and sanded in the future.

• Gypsum and cement mixtures. They are the best and most common. They are easy to use and very reliable. They require water to prepare.

• Dispersed water mixtures. They have a very viscous consistency and are sold ready-made. The only disadvantage of using them is a slight shrinkage after complete drying.

Most of all, cement and gypsum dry powder mixtures are suitable for correct and trouble-free filling of walls before wallpapering, because they are easy to apply, and, having the properties of repelling moisture after drying, do not enter into chemical reaction with wallpaper glue, which is diluted with water during preparation.

What tool is needed to putty walls under wallpaper?

The first step is to select a container for mixing the solution. It should be both roomy and comfortable.

The power tool will need an attachment called a mixer. This is a special construction attachment, a bit like a kitchen whisk for a mixer or blender. It is with its help that it will be possible to achieve the desired consistency of the solution.

Also an important tool when plastering walls under wallpaper is a building level, with which you will be able to complete all the work smoothly. This can be either a laser version or water, oil, or alcohol.

If the wall surface is very uneven, then you will need to apply the mixture in a thick layer. Here the rule will come to the rescue - both wooden and metal will do.

Of course, you can’t do without spatulas. various sizes. In hard-to-reach places you will need small spatulas, and in spacious areas - large ones.

Brushes or rollers are also very important tools necessary when plastering walls under wallpaper. With their help, a special deep penetration primer will be applied to the surface of the walls.

Don't forget about sandpaper, the so-called sandpaper (emery). You definitely need to stock up on it, both fine-grained and coarse-grained. With its help, grinding, you will need to bring the putty walls to perfection.

A sandpaper clamp, or as it is also called a manual sandpaper, will also come in handy. With its help, it is much faster and more convenient to grout or sand putty walls.

Preparing the wall surface for putty

The process of preparing walls for applying putty can be divided into the following stages:

• Removing a layer of whitewash from the walls. Don’t be surprised, many people still have a greasy layer of whitewash from Soviet times on their walls. To make it come off better, you need to moisten it with water, and after a while simply wipe it off with a large machine sponge; finish off difficult-to-remove areas with a spatula or scraper.

• Cleaning the surface of the walls from the old layer of wallpaper. Here, too, you can’t do without moisture; you need to moisten it generously. warm water a layer of old wallpaper, going over it with a dampened roller. You can make small notches on the wallpaper so that they absorb water faster with something sharp. Next, after waiting a little, remove the wallpaper with a large spatula or scraper, starting from the joints.

• Removing the old paint layer. Here you can simply mechanically scrape off the paint, but this is very labor-intensive and time-consuming. The most correct solution is heat treatment, i.e. heating the surface of walls with old paint with a gas burner or hair dryer. After heating, the paint swells and is easily removed with a scraper or spatula.

• Primer of walls. Primer mixtures are very important - they create a dense film, the adhesion of subsequent finishing materials to which is very reliable. Also, primed walls are less susceptible to various types of fungi and dampness.

After all these preparatory steps have been properly completed, your walls are completely ready for applying putty.

Working with starting wall putty: main points

The main points that need to be remembered and observed when starting to putty walls for wallpaper are the following:

• To avoid cracking of the solution after drying, each layer of starting putty must be applied carefully, no thicker than 3 mm each.

• The base of the walls for starting putty must be properly primed in advance, only in this way the adhesion will be as strong as possible.

• The rough putty will sit even more firmly if you use a paint mesh underneath it. Thanks to it, it is possible to cover rather large wall defects when puttingty. It is very easy to putty on the mesh yourself; in addition, thanks to the painting mesh, putty is saved and its consumption is reduced.

• A very smooth surface is contraindicated for starting putty, for example, drywall, which has a very smooth structure. You can immediately apply the finishing layer of putty on it; the starting layer will hold less firmly, because she likes a more porous surface structure.

• After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so that each subsequent layer will be bonded as securely as possible to the previous one.

After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so that each subsequent layer will be bonded as securely as possible to the previous one.

Do-it-yourself wall putty using beacons for wallpaper

When you putty walls using beacons with your own hands under the wallpaper, these very beacons can act metal profiles, most often used for fastening plasterboard sheets, as well as any other convenient wooden or metal slats.

Initially, one strip is placed at the beginning and at the end of the wall, using a building level for accuracy - this can be either a laser level, a water level, or an alcohol level.

The slats themselves can be attached to the wall either using dowels with self-tapping screws, or using a gypsum mixture, which, after hardening, holds the beacons quite reliably.

Next, a very ordinary rope, or any other thread available on the farm, is pulled between the installed beacons. After this, a control check is again carried out by the construction level for the correctness of the resulting design for plastering the walls.

Then, intermediate beacons are installed at a distance of the length of the rule. It is along them that the rule will walk, leveling the putty from bottom to top.

When independently puttingtying walls along beacons, a starting putty is also used, each subsequent applied layer of which must be thoroughly primed with a deep penetration primer.

Finishing putty on walls with your own hands under wallpaper: instructions with photos

Doing the finishing putty on walls with your own hands under wallpaper is not so difficult. If you have coped with the starting putty, then the finishing putty will definitely not cause you any hassle or difficulties.

All work during finishing putty is, in principle, similar to work during starting puttying of walls, with the exception of one point - each subsequent layer of finishing putty should not be thicker than 2 mm, in contrast to the permissible 3 mm for starting putty.

The main condition for starting finishing putty is a well-prepared wall surface, i.e. all possible remnants of the starting mixture on the surface of the walls must be removed with a wide iron spatula, and the wall itself must be properly sanded and primed.

An ideal result when finishing puttying walls can be achieved by using several carriers with powerful light bulbs. By directing streams of light from several sides at the same time, you can understand from the shadows formed where the most uneven areas are.

And vice versa, if shadows do not form at all, then the finishing putty work can be considered perfectly completed. Next, you will need to minimally clean the surface with fine-grained sandpaper and apply a primer.

How to properly apply putty on walls with your own hands - technology for applying mortar under wallpaper

In order to correctly apply putty on the walls yourself before gluing wallpaper, you need to adhere to certain rules:

• When working on puttying walls under wallpaper, it is necessary to use not one spatula, but two. One should be large and wide, the second small and comfortable. It is best to use a stainless steel spatula.

• By using two spatulas, there is a significant saving in leveling solution, because the remaining mixture from a large spatula during application is picked up by a small one and put into action again.

• The direction of movements of the hand with the spatula should be cross-shaped, i.e. After applying the layer from bottom to top, first smoothly turn it to the left, then go over the same place with a spatula again, only this time turning it to the right. With this cross-puttying, the surface of the walls turns out to be perfectly smooth in the end.

The leveling mixture must be applied with light, but at the same time smooth hand movements, preferably in one go. When applying, the spatula must be held at a slight angle (from 60 to 80 degrees, depending on the thickness of the required layer) so that the leveling mixture is evenly distributed over the wall.

The most common mistakes when plastering walls under wallpaper with your own hands

Here is a list of the mistakes that occur most often when plastering walls under wallpaper:

• After applying the starting layer of putty, most people are too lazy not only to sand it, but to simply go over it with at least a wide spatula to knock off the remnants of the frozen mixture, then when applying the finishing layer it will all appear.

• No priming of the starting layer of putty. Again, mostly due to laziness. Everyone thinks it will work that way.

• There is no need to start puttying the walls from the corner. As a rule, the corners are the most crooked places on your walls. You need to step back a little from them and start putting putty on a flat wall surface. The corners must be drawn at the very end.

• Dirty container for mixing the solution. Any excess that is in an unclean container after mixing the solution will drag along the wall during application and leave marks behind it.

• Also, various particles of debris can get into the solution when mixing from a poorly cleaned mixer - a hammer drill attachment or a drill for stirring the mixture.

• Very liquid solution. This mixture will simply flow down the wall. A consistency similar to thick sour cream is considered ideal.

• Damaged or bent spatula. If a wide spatula has obvious damage, then you should not use it. You will not be able to achieve a perfectly flat surface with such a spatula.

Step-by-step and clear instructions for self-plastering walls under wallpaper

To properly perform the work of puttingtying walls under wallpaper yourself, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:

• Preparing the wall surface. At this stage it is necessary to remove all excess from the walls - old paint, wallpaper, any irregularities.

• After the procedure for removing all unnecessary items, it is necessary to prime the walls with a deep penetration primer.

• Next comes the application of the starting layer of putty. The maximum thickness of the applied mortar when starting to putty the walls should not exceed 1.5 cm. The applied mortar can consist of many layers, but in total it should not go beyond the thickness indicated above.

• If another layer of putty is required to completely level the walls, then it is best to reinforce it with reinforcing mesh or paint mesh. The previous layer of putty is primed, after drying, a little mixture is applied to it, onto which the painting mesh is attached. Next, the necessary leveling layer of putty is applied on top of it.

• Finishing corners, both external and internal. These angles can be adjusted with putty using a special coal spatula or an ordinary wide one.

• Next comes the finishing putty of the walls. Before starting, the previous layers must be primed and cleaned again. The finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting putty, only in a smaller layer - up to 2mm.

As a result, the resulting putty surface is carefully sanded and sanded with light circular movements.

How to properly putty concrete walls under wallpaper with your own hands?

In order to correctly perform putty work for gluing wallpaper with your own hands on the concrete surface of the walls, you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

• Surface primer. Using a wide roller, a deep penetration primer is carefully applied to the surface of the concrete walls. After the soil has completely dried, you can safely proceed to the next step.

• Next, pour the dry leveling mixture for wall putty into a clean container, take a hammer drill with a special mixer attachment, and thoroughly mix the mixture until the solution reaches a consistency similar to thick sour cream.

• Using a small spatula, check the quality of the resulting mixture; if there are small lumps or compactions, continue mixing with a construction mixer until it is completely ready.

• After thorough mixing, remove a small amount of solution from the container with a small spatula and distribute it evenly along the entire length of the wide spatula.

• We apply a wide spatula with a leveling mixture to the surface of the concrete wall at a slight angle and begin to smoothly, without much pressure, move the spatula up to the left, then up and to the right - crosswise.

• Using a small spatula, remove the remaining mixture from the large one, carefully arrange it again on the edge of the large spatula, and apply new portions of the solution evenly from the container along the remaining length.

• We continue leveling the concrete walls until they are completely ready.

• After drying, you can begin grouting (sanding) the walls. To do this, we put sandpaper on a sandpaper (a special clamp for sandpaper with a comfortable handle) and grind the surface of the concrete walls in a circular motion to an ideal result.

Puttying brick surfaces with your own hands for wallpapering

There are a number of consistent rules for puttingtying brick walls for wallpapering with your own hands:

• Brick walls that are planned to be puttied must first be thoroughly primed. For this, it is best to use a deep penetration primer.

• After the soil has dried, a starting solution for leveling is prepared. When finished, it should be similar to ordinary sour cream in consistency.

• The prepared putty solution is evenly distributed over the surface of the brick wall in an even layer using a large spatula.

• It is recommended to putty the entire brick wall at once in one sitting, i.e. from the beginning to the end. This results in the most uniform and smooth application of the mixture.

• After the starting layer of putty has dried, a primer must be applied.

• Next, we prepare the finishing solution for leveling the brick walls; its consistency should be slightly thinner than when preparing the starting mixture, because the finishing layer will be much smaller. The finishing putty is applied according to the same principle as the starting putty.

• After the putty surface of the brick walls has completely dried, it must be sanded to a perfectly smooth result.

• Finally, you can check the thoroughness of the surface by applying a rule. If it fits completely, leaving no gaps, then we can consider the job done with a bang.

Correct application of putty on wooden walls under wallpaper with your own hands

To properly apply putty with your own hands on wooden walls Before wallpapering you must follow the following instructions:

• Wooden walls, like any other, must undergo a priming process at the very beginning. The primer will ensure the strongest possible adhesion of the wood surface to the layers of putty. In addition, the soil protects the tree from the processes of rotting, aging and fungus formation.

• After the primer layer has completely dried, the base (starting) putty is applied in a layer of up to 3 mm.

• The dried starting layer is sanded with coarse sandpaper in a circular motion without strong pressure (it is best to use a manual sandpaper - an emery clamp).

• Next, a deep penetration primer is applied on top of the sanded base layer of putty with a large roller, and in the corners of the room with a paint brush.

• Next, one or two (if necessary) layers of the finishing solution, each no more than 2 mm thick, are applied to the dried base primed layer.

• At the end of all the manipulations done, the finishing layer of putty is rubbed down with sandpaper and finally primed thoroughly.

• After the surface has dried, you can safely begin gluing wallpaper on wooden putty walls.

Professional do-it-yourself drywall putty under wallpaper

It is necessary to putty plasterboard walls before wallpapering for three reasons:

• One day, wallpaper glued directly onto drywall will become obsolete, either morally or physically. This is where you won’t be able to simply peel them off - a layer of drywall will come off along with the old wallpaper.

• If you have chosen light wallpaper for your interior and pasted it directly onto the drywall, be prepared to see through it all the fasteners of the drywall - the dark heads of self-tapping screws, screws, etc.

• Again, if the wallpaper you have chosen for gluing is not dark, then its shade, when placed directly on plasterboard sheets It will fade and fade a little.

To professionally perform work on puttying walls under plasterboard wallpaper with your own hands, you need to adhere to the following rules:

• Be sure to prime the drywall several times before applying putty, because... it absorbs the soil mixture very well.

• You don’t have to apply the starting solution at all; it’s better to use the finishing mixture right away.

• Next, you need to thoroughly recess all the heads of the screws into the drywall so that they do not interfere with the putty.

• At the joints of plasterboard sheets, to avoid cracking, it is necessary to putty over the painting mesh.

• After completing the finishing putty, the surface is thoroughly rubbed and primed.

After drying, you can safely stick the wallpaper onto putty drywall.

How to make smooth wall corners for wallpaper using putty yourself?

The work required to independently putty the corners of the walls in the room before wallpapering is carried out differently, depending on the type of corner. As you know, there are internal and external angles.

When puttingtying internal corners, you first need to level the adjacent surfaces that make up these corners as much as possible. To do this, apply the mixture with a wide spatula, starting from the corner, first on one side, then on the other.

After the mixture has dried in the corners, be sure to sand it first with coarse-grained sandpaper, then gradually using fine-grained sandpaper. You definitely need to use a skinner, because... Without it, work on aligning internal corners will be very difficult.

When you putty the outer corners of a room yourself, it is easiest to use special metal corners, which are freely available at any hardware store.

They have small holes along their entire length into which the mixture gets putty, which ultimately ensures the strength of the corner structure.

They are installed very simply - first, a little mixture is applied along the entire length with a spatula to the outer corner, then a metal corner is applied directly to the mixture, after which it is pressed, and the remaining protruding mixture is leveled with a spatula to the sides of both adjacent walls.

Making your own putty from dry construction mixture

In order to make quality putty, and most importantly on your own, for application to walls for wallpapering, from ready-made dry building mixtures, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:

• Next, you need to pour the required amount of dry mixture, which is indicated by the solution manufacturer on the packaging. Be sure to read these recommendations before starting work.

• As a rule, it is advisable to make such a quantity of leveling mixture that it can be completely used up in about 35-45 minutes. Then the mixture will simply dry out and lose its properties.

• Using a construction mixer, thoroughly mix the solution until a homogeneous mass, which should be similar in consistency to homemade sour cream.

• The solution should not contain debris, various specks, lumps, etc.

• Then you need to let the solution sit for about 15 minutes, then go over it again with a construction mixer.

Calculation of the required amount of putty for leveling walls under wallpaper

In order to make correct calculations for the required amount of putty when independently leveling walls for wallpapering, you must have the following data:

• Number of windows and their dimensions

• Room height

• Condition of the wall surface - porous concrete walls may require many layers of putty, while plasterboard walls require a minimum number of layers.

As an example, let’s calculate the amount of putty for a room with the following characteristics:

• Room dimensions – 2x3m

• Number of windows - 1 with dimensions 2x1.5m

• Room height – 2.5m

• Number of doors - 1 size 2x1m

• The condition of the wall surface is an almost flat, non-porous concrete surface.

First of all, we calculate the area of ​​the walls of the room using the formula:

P = 2x(AxB+A1xB)-CxC1-DxD1

Below we will decipher the notations to make it clear what’s what:

P – area of ​​the walls of the room

We multiply this part of the formula (AxB + A1xB) by 2, because the walls in our room are paired, i.e. two in parallel.

A and A1 – width and length of the room

B – room height

C and C1 – width and height of the window opening

D and D1 - height and width of the doorway

We substitute our data into the formula and get the following result:

P = 2x(2x2.5+3x2.5)-2x1.5-2x1 = 12.5m2

Next, we need to calculate how much starting putty will be needed to level the walls in a layer, for example 2mm thick. To do this, you need to pay attention to the packaging of the putty itself. There, the manufacturer clearly indicates the consumption of a mixture 1 mm thick per area of ​​1 m 2 - on average this is 0.8 kg. Knowing this, we can perform calculations using the formula:

K = РхЭхЗ

The breakdown of the indicators is as follows:

K – amount of putty

P – area of ​​the walls of the room (already calculated above)

E – estimated layer thickness for leveling the walls

Z – mixture consumption indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging

We substitute our data into the formula and get:

K = 12.5x2x0.8 = 20kg

As a rule, putty is sold at construction markets in bags of 25 kg, i.e. in our case, one bag will be enough, even with a small margin of 5 kg.

After this, we will calculate the amount of finishing putty required for the final leveling of the concrete surface, for example with a layer of 1 mm. Again, you need to refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for mixture consumption on the packaging - on average for finishing putty it is 1 kg per 1 m 2 with a 1 mm layer. The finishing putty is slightly denser in structure than the starting putty, which is why the values ​​differ.

We substitute our values ​​into the same formula (K = РхЭхЗ) and get the following results:

K = 12.5x1x1=12.5kg

In this case, it is most likely more profitable to buy not a whole bag of finishing putty, but to take it in bulk with a reserve of 14 kg. This should be quite enough.

If you plan to apply the finishing putty in several layers, then you need to multiply the result obtained using the formula by the desired number of layers.

How to calculate the amount of primer needed when plastering walls under wallpaper?

When working on puttying walls for wallpapering in the future, you cannot do without primer compounds, which are sold in plastic and other containers of various sizes.

They come ready-made and do not require any manipulation for preparation. Simply, before use, shake the container with primer thoroughly and use it safely.

Most people, when they putty walls under wallpaper on their own, have a question: how much primer should you buy so that you are sure to have enough and not have too much left over?

All this can be approximately calculated independently. For calculations we need the following data:

• Room dimensions - length and width

• Number of windows and their dimensions

• Room height

• Number of doors and their sizes

For example, let’s calculate the required amount of primer in 2 layers for the same room for which we calculated the amount of required starting and finishing putty above.

The formula for calculating the required amount of primer is as follows:

G = RxLxM

The decoding of the designations is as follows:

G – required amount of primer

P – area of ​​the walls of the room

L – primer consumption indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer

M – number of proposed primer layers

G = 12.5x0.2x2 = 5l

As a result, it turns out that for our room 5 liters of primer will be quite enough for high-quality preparation for putty.

What is the best primer to use when plastering walls under wallpaper?

To choose best primer To putty walls under wallpaper yourself, you need to understand what it generally is and how it differs from each other. That is why we will briefly go over the types, characteristics and properties of various primers:

• Primer with color pigments (pigmented). Working with such a primer is a pleasure. You can immediately see which areas are poorly primed and which are sufficiently primed.

• Primer with mineral additives (mineral). It contains multiple minerals chemical substances, useful for your walls. It protects very well against fungal infections.

• Primer with an antiseptic effect (antiseptic primer). Great for areas with high humidity, such as bathrooms, kitchens, etc. It does a very good job of preventing mold and mildew.

• Acrylic primer. This is the most common type of primer used for all types of premises. Simply put, it is universal.

Having understood a little about the types of solutions for priming walls for wallpapering, we can conclude that the best and most universal primer specifically for use under wallpaper is an acrylic primer. If you choose her, you definitely won’t go wrong.

Are putty walls harmful to health?

Modern types of putty for leveling walls under wallpaper, like most building mixtures, consist of a number of chemical elements, with the help of which the necessary viscosity, good adhesion, elasticity and elasticity are formed.

Many people are interested in the question: will the particles and vapors of these very chemical auxiliary elements included in dry construction mixtures for wall putty cause harm to the respiratory and other organs, as well as the skin, if you inhale and touch them during the puttying process and during drying out the walls?

If the manufacturer of the mixtures is a large and serious manufacturer that respects itself and other people, then its products are certainly subject to the necessary quality certification and do not pose any harm to the health of the people using it.

Moreover, certified putty is not only harmless to people, but it also does not harm the environment.

Therefore, it is best to purchase building mixtures for wall putty at large retail outlets, and always check for the necessary quality certificates. Certified putty and walls plastered with it will definitely not cause harm to your health and the health of your loved ones.

Video tutorial: do-it-yourself putty on walls under wallpaper

In conclusion of this article, I would like to state that priming and puttying walls under wallpaper with your own hands is a completely feasible task. It is better not to neglect these procedures. Of course, you can apply wallpaper without putty or primer, but how long it will last in this case is unknown. Therefore, do everything wisely and according to the instructions. Great luck!

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