Wood is easy to process. Using simple tools, you can create things of amazing beauty and functionality.
Separately, it is worth noting products that have the shape of rotation figures: tool handles, staircase balusters, kitchen utensils. To make them, an ax or chisel is not enough; you need a lathe.
Buying such a device is not a problem, but a good machine is expensive. Get one like this useful tool and it’s easy to save money, because you can make a wood lathe with your own hands.
Why is it needed and how does it work?
Lathe designed for the manufacture of wooden products that have a cylindrical or similar shape. This is an indispensable item for repairs. country house With wooden stairs, a carved porch, but not only.
If you have some experience, a turning tool will allow you not only to save on purchased decorative elements, but also to earn money, because wooden crafts handmade are highly valued.
Whether such a machine is needed in a home workshop is up to the master to decide.
Of course, if you need several handles for chisels, it’s easier to buy them, but if you want to make an all-wood staircase, then a set of balusters will result in a very a large sum. It is much cheaper to make them yourself. By the way, you don’t even have to spend money on buying equipment - a simple machine can be made in your own workshop using scrap materials.
The operating principle of a wood lathe is not particularly complicated. The cylindrical workpiece is fixed along the axis of rotation. Torque is transmitted to it. By bringing various cutters or grinding tools to the workpiece, it is given the desired shape.
Main parts of lathe:
- a frame on which all components are fixed;
- electric drive;
- headstock;
- tailstock;
- handyman
For ease of operation, schemes for changing the rotation speed are used. In professional equipment, this is a real gearbox, a system of gears that allows you to regulate the speed within a very wide range. This is difficult; it is enough to equip a homemade wood lathe with a belt drive with several pulleys of different diameters.
Manufacturing of the bed
The bed is a frame that combines all parts of the machine into a single whole. The strength of the structure as a whole depends on its reliability, because best material for the frame - steel corner. You can also use profile pipe rectangular section.
First of all, the dimensions of the future unit are outlined. This indicator largely depends on what specific products the machine is needed for. The average bed size of a home lathe is 80 cm. Using a grinder with a metal circle, cut two identical workpieces.
Lining wooden blocks, the angles are placed with the shelves up and inward on a flat surface, their upper edges should create an ideal plane. The same distance is maintained between them, approximately 5 cm. To orient them correctly, use a strip of appropriate thickness.
The longitudinal parts of the base are fixed with clamps. Cross members are made from the same square. There are three of them. Two are attached to the edges of the structure, the third, which is a support for the headstock, is approximately twenty centimeters from the left edge. The exact dimensions depend on the type of motor used and the parameters of the pulley that could be found.
All that remains is to weld the frame into a single whole. The seam must be reliable and of high quality, it can be welded manual welding or use the machine.
It is important to immediately decide how the machine will be used. Possible desktop installation or production of an autonomous unit. In the second option, it is necessary to provide legs. They can be made from the same square, or they can be cut from timber of suitable thickness. The use of wooden legs will allow you to save on material, in addition, the machine can be made collapsible.
Electric motor for machine
The basis of the lathe drive is the engine. When choosing this unit, it is important to pay attention to its main characteristic – power. For home machine Models with power from 1200 to 2000 W are suitable. The type of connection is important; there are single-phase and three-phase motors.
In a low-power table lathe, you can use a motor from washing machine. It is unlikely to cope with the processing of large workpieces, but it will help produce small decorative elements and kitchen utensils.
Direct drive or belt drive
There are several ways to transfer rotation to the workpiece. The simplest is direct drive. IN in this case the workpiece is attached directly to the motor shaft. Distinctive feature This design is simplicity. With all this, direct drive has a number of significant disadvantages.
First of all, a direct drive machine does not allow you to adjust the rotation speed, which is critical when working with hard material. It is also worth considering the load on the electric motor, especially when working with large workpieces. No matter how well it is centered, it cannot do without vibration. Motor bearings are not designed to withstand longitudinal loads and will often fail.
To protect the engine from damage and provide the ability to adjust the speed of rotation of the workpiece, it is worth considering a belt drive. In this case, the engine is located away from the axis of rotation of the workpiece, and torque is transmitted through pulleys. Using pulley blocks different diameters, it is easy to change the speed within a fairly wide range.
It is advisable to equip a machine for your home with pulleys with three or more grooves, which will allow you to process wood of any species with equal success, and, if necessary, work with soft alloys.
Headstock and tailstock
The workpiece being processed is clamped between two devices called the headstock and tailstock. Rotation from the engine is transmitted to the front one, which is why it is a more complex unit.
Structurally, the headstock of a homemade lathe is a metal U-shaped structure, between the side faces of which a shaft and one or more pulleys are mounted on bearings. The body of this unit can be made of thick steel; bolts of sufficient length are suitable for assembling it into a single whole.
An important part of the headstock, as well as the machine as a whole, is the shaft, a spindle with three or four pins designed to fix the workpiece. This shaft is passed through the bearing of one of the cheeks of the U-shaped housing, then pulleys are mounted on it. To fasten them, a key or a means for fixing cylindrical parts is used, the second cheek is put on last, and the structure is securely tightened with bolts.
The tailstock's job is to support the long workpiece while allowing it to rotate freely. Can buy finished part factory machine, or you can use a powerful cartridge electric drill, fixed to a square of suitable length. A shaft with a pointed end is clamped into the cartridge itself.
The headstock and tailstock are installed on the bed. It is important to understand that the axes of rotation of both shafts must completely coincide. Otherwise, breakage of the workpiece, failure of the machine, and possibly injury to the turner are likely.
Tool support: tool rest
A tool rest is a table on which the tool rests during operation. In principle, it can have any configuration, the master can choose, the main criterion is convenience. One of the best options for a hand rest is trapezoidal turntable made of thick steel, mounted on a platform that allows it to be moved in all directions. It will allow you to process any workpieces and manufacture products various sizes and shapes.
The simplest tool for this is a square welded to the base. The height of its upper edge must correspond to the level of the axis of the headstocks.
Wood cutters
As cutting tool are used for lathe. You can buy such a tool in almost any hardware store. Individual cutters and entire sets are available for sale.
If there is no store nearby, but there is an opportunity and desire, you can do necessary tool yourself. For this you will need metal cutting machine, as well as a tool steel blade, it can be replaced with an old tool. Lathe cutter High Quality can come from, for example, an old Soviet file.
Mini machine for small jobs
Often there is a need to grind several small wooden parts, in this case it is not at all necessary to make a full-fledged machine; you can get by with a mini wood lathe. Its production does not require much labor and will not take much time.
The design of such a machine is extremely simple. As an electrical component, a motor from an old tape recorder, powered from external unit nutrition. The bed of the mini-machine will be a piece of board of the required length.
The engine must be secured. Of course, a belt drive is not suitable for a small machine; the workpiece will have to be mounted on the motor shaft. Best Fixture for this purpose there is a faceplate. The drive housing is a U-shaped plate, in the center of which a hole is drilled for the shaft. The engine in the housing is mounted on the frame using self-tapping screws.
The main part of the machine is ready, all that remains is to make the tailstock. Its body is made of a block of suitable size. A hole for the shaft is drilled in it exactly at the height of the engine; a dowel-nail of suitable length is used as it. The headstock is attached with glue and several screws.
Using a power source with the ability to adjust the output voltage, you can create a machine with variable rotation speed. It is convenient to regulate the speed using the foot control pedal. Design of this device can be very diverse, it all depends on the available parts.
Machine made from an electric drill
Perhaps everyone home handyman there is one like this useful thing like an electric drill. This is a truly universal tool; it can be used for drilling, mixing mortar, and cleaning surfaces. It's no wonder that many people have the idea of using a drill motor to make a small wood lathe.
It is not difficult. By by and large It is enough to fix the drill on the bed, and install the tailstock opposite it; it should be movable, which will allow you to adjust the working distance.
There are many options for manufacturing such a lathe, they differ in complexity and the materials used. In the simplest case, the machine is a board or piece of thick plywood, on one end of which there is a stop for a drill with a lock, on the other - a rear beam: a block with a shaft inside. As a shaft, you can use a sharpened screw or dowel of a suitable diameter.
If you have the skills to work with metal, you can simply create a machine professional level. Using it, it is easy to produce products of the highest class. If the machine is needed from time to time, the best option- a machine made from a drill. If necessary, you can grind the required part, and if you need a drill, it can be used for its intended purpose.
As you know, household sewing machines come in hand, foot and electric drive. A sewing machine with a foot drive gives a higher speed of rotation of the flywheel compared to a machine with a manual drive, and frees the hands of the worker from rotating the flywheel. All this creates Better conditions for work, leads to increased productivity and improves product quality.
Foot operated sewing machine
In sewing factories, workshops, and ateliers, industrial universal and special sewing machines are used. On special machines, only one operation is performed: buttons are sewn on, buttonholes are made, seams are sewn, embroidered, etc. On universal machines, many operations can be performed on sewing parts and processing sections of the product, and with the help of devices, the product can be sewn from the beginning to the end. Household sewing machines are universal.
Exercise
Examine Figure 28, find the indicated parts on sewing machine and tell us the difference between a foot-operated sewing machine and a sewing machine with manual drive.
Foot drive. The foot drive (Fig. 29) has a pedal 9 mounted on screws (centers). It is set into an oscillatory motion by the legs of the worker. This movement, using the connecting rod 8 and the crank 7, turns into a rotational one and is transmitted to the starting wheel 4. The rim of the starting wheel has a groove into which a round belt 3 is inserted. The belt connects the starting wheel to the flywheel pulley 2 mounted on the main shaft of the machine.
Thus, the rotation of the starting wheel is transmitted via a belt to the flywheel pulley. For safety reasons, the starting wheel is covered at the front with a shield 6. At the end of the work, the belt is removed from the starting wheel using a pulley 5.
Sanitary requirements and safety regulations
When working on a sewing machine with a foot drive, you must observe basically the same sanitary and hygienic requirements and safety rules as when working on a machine with a manual drive (Appendices 4 and 5). Besides:
1. When working on a foot-powered sewing machine, you must pay attention to Special attention on the position of the arms and legs
2. Do not wear the belt while the machine is running.
3. Do not hold the belt with your hand, otherwise you may injure your hand with the paper clip.
5. Remove the belt from the rim of the starter wheel using a pulley.
Remember the words: foot drive, starter wheel, drive belt, guide, shield.
Questions
1. What sanitary and hygienic requirements must be observed when working on a sewing machine?
2. What safety rules must be followed when working on a foot-operated machine?
3. With the help of what part is the rotational movement of the starting wheel transmitted to the flywheel?
Exercises
1. Starting and stopping the machine
1) Put the car in free motion.
2) Move the flywheel of the machine. To do this, you need to put your feet on the pedal, your right foot slightly ahead of your left.
With your right hand, turn the flywheel towards you and, working with your feet, rock the pedal. Place your hands on the platform.
Make sure the flywheel rotates in the correct direction!
3) Stop the car. To do this, you need to stop rocking the pedal, and right hand hold the flywheel (fingers should be closed).
2. Working on a machine without threads
1) Put the machine in working motion.
2) Place fabric under the presser foot and lower the presser foot.
3) Move the flywheel of the machine. Follow correct position hands and movement of the fabric! The fabric should move in the direction away from the worker.
4) Stop the car.
Repeat the exercise several times.
Machine needle
The machine needle is one of the important working parts of the sewing machine. She pierces the fabric and threads it through the eyelet. Depending on the type of work performed, different machines use needles of different lengths and shapes (Fig. 31). Needles must be strong and elastic. They are made from high quality steel.
Needle device. A machine needle consists of three main parts: a bulb, a blade and a point (Fig. 32).
The cylindrical flask has a flat. The blade is also cylindrical in shape, but of a smaller diameter so that the needle can more easily pass through the puncture made in the tissue with the tip. The blade has two grooves - long and short. The grooves protect the thread from rubbing against the fabric.
On the long groove side, the thread runs along the entire length of the needle blade. On the other hand, the thread touches the needle only in that part that enters the fabric: a short groove is made to this length.
The sharp end of the needle - the point - is its working part. It serves to pierce fabric and has an eyelet for threading.
Needle selection. To get a good machine stitch, it is very important to choose the right needle.
Machine needles are distinguished by numbers - from 75 to 150. The number is placed on the needle bulb. The higher the number, the thicker the needle. Needles are selected depending on the thickness of the threads, the number of which, in turn, depends on the type of fabric being sewn (Table 21).
When choosing a needle, you need to pay attention to its quality. The needle blade must be straight, the point well sharpened, the grooves and eyes must be smooth and well polished, since roughness and scratches reduce the strength of the thread and cause it to break.
Tasks
1. Examine the machine needle. Find the parts on it indicated in Figure 32. Compare the design of a machine needle with a manual one. Answer the questions: 1) what is the purpose of a machine needle? 2) Which part of the needle is working and what work does it do? 3) Why is the eye in a machine needle located at its sharp end, and not at the blunt end, like a hand needle?
2. Using the table, select a needle and thread for sewing items made of chintz and satin and answer the questions: 1) what determines the selection of a machine needle?
2) How to determine the quality of a needle?
Installing the machine needle (Fig. 33)
Exercises
1. Raise the needle bar to the upper position.
2. Loosen the needle clamp screw.
3. Insert the needle through the needle holder into the needle bar until it stops.
The long groove of the needle must be on the thread guide side!
4. Secure the needle clamp screw.
5. Check whether the needle fits freely into the hole of the needle plate and does not touch the shuttle device. To do this, you need to lower and raise the needle.
The upper thread is threaded into the eye of the needle from the side of the thread guide located on the needle holder!
7. Check the quality of the stitching.
Needle installation has great importance. The normal operation of the machine depends on the quality of the needle and its correct installation (Table 22).
Questions
1. How to install the machine needle correctly?
2. What is the name of the machine part into which the needle is inserted?
3. In which direction should the long groove point when installing the needle?
4. Which side is the needle threaded from?
5. What problems can be caused by the sewing machine? incorrect installation needle or its defects?
Sewing by machine
Exercises
1. Take a fabric measuring 30 x 40 cm, fold it in half with the wrong side inward and sweep it (Fig. 34, a).
2. Draw lines every 3 cm parallel to the tissue sections.
3. Sew the fabric along the marked lines and remove the running stitches (Fig. 34, b).
Follow the rules for operating the machine!
4. Check the quality of the resulting stitch: correctness and evenness of the stitching.
Use the resulting fabric sample to make mittens for holding hot dishes.
Practical work
Making a mitten
Progress
1. Place the mitten pattern on the prepared fabric and trace its contours (Fig. 35, a). You can make the pattern yourself: trace the outline of the hand and cut it out with a seam allowance of 1 cm (Fig. 35.6).
2. Cut out the mitten, fold the parts and sweep them at a distance of 1 cm from the cuts.
3. Sew the mitten (Fig. 35, c), remove the running stitches, and process the edges with loop stitches.
4. Make a thread loop (Fig. 36).
5. Check the quality of the work performed: stitch quality, quality handmade(making loop stitches and making eyelets).
Winder
To wind thread onto a bobbin, the sewing machine has a device: winder and tensioner. The winder is attached to the right side of the sleeve, near the flywheel, and the tensioner is attached to the machine platform (Fig. 37).
The winder (Fig. 38) is a metal rod-spindle 5 with a sleeve put on it. At the right end of the spindle there is a pulley 7, on the rim of which a rubber wheel 6, at the left end there is a pin 4. The spindle is connected to the machine arm using a lever 8. To secure the spindle in the desired position, there is a latch 9. For even winding of threads, the latch is equipped with a tongue 1.
The tensioning device consists of two tension washers mounted on a platform and a spool rod.
Exercise
Examine the pattern of the winder and find the parts marked on it on the sewing machine.
Exercise. Winding thread onto a bobbin
1. Put the car in free motion.
2. Place the spool on the spool pin located on the machine platform (see Fig. 37) and pull the thread between the tensioner washers.
3. Hand wind several turns of thread onto the bobbin.
4. Place the bobbin on the winder spindle so that the spindle pin fits into the bobbin groove (see Fig. 38, 3 - 4). The bobbin is thus secured to the spindle and will not turn during winding. The thread from the bobbin should run towards the worker.
5. Press the rubber wheel against the rim of the flywheel, pressing the lever bushing so that the latch tongue fits between the walls of the bobbin. Thus, the rubber wheel will come into close contact with the rim of the flywheel and the winder will start working.
6. Move the flywheel. Wind the thread onto the bobbin until the latch tongue bounces off the bobbin. When winding, the thread should lie tightly, in even rows, otherwise it will get tangled and torn during sewing.
7. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin from the spindle.
Remember the words: winder, tensioner, winder spindle, pin, sleeve, latch.
Questions
1. Tell us about the sequence of winding thread on a bobbin.
2. Why, when putting a bobbin on the winder spindle, do they insert the spindle pin into the bobbin groove?
3. What role does the latch tongue play when winding thread on a bobbin?
4. Why is a rubber wheel put on the winder pulley?
5. How should the thread lie when winding it on the bobbin?
Linen seams
Linen items are stitched so that the fabric sections are inside the seam. This connecting seams: double and closed. They are called linen seams(Table 23).
Practical work
Making samples of linen seams
Equipment: work box, four pieces of fabric measuring 10 x 10 cm.
Making a double seam sample
Progress
1. Prepare a sample: fold two pieces of fabric with the wrong side inward, pin and baste.
2. Stitch the parts (Fig. 39, a). Remove the running stitches and, spreading the seam allowance on both sides, iron it. Turn the sample inside out, straighten the seam and sweep (see Fig. 39, b).
3. Sew the parts, remove the running stitches, iron the finished seam. Trim sections of the sample using scissors in a zigzag pattern or sweep (see Fig. 39, c).
Making a sample of a sewing seam
Progress
1. Prepare a sample: fold and pin two pieces of fabric with the right sides inward so that the bottom piece protrudes by 0.7 cm (Fig. 40, a).
2. Go around the cut of the upper part with the lower part, sweep and stitch the parts (Fig. 40, b).
3. Remove the running stitches, fold the seam towards the top piece and baste. Stitch the seam (Fig. 40, c).
4. Remove running stitches, iron the finished seam, trim sections of the sample with zigzag scissors or overcast (Fig. 40, d).
Sample design. Attach the samples to the album and make sketches of the seams.
Devices used when working on a sewing machine
When working on a sewing machine, various small-scale mechanization devices provide great assistance (Fig. 41). They help improve the quality of processed products, make work easier and increase productivity. Working with devices does not require preliminary basting of the parts to be sewn.
By using sewing paws(Fig. 41, a) you can make a hemming seam, and with the help of a chopper foot (Fig. 41.6) you can make a hem seam with a closed cut (hem). To make seams of different widths, cutter feet of certain sizes are used.
When making a double seam, you can use a limiting ruler - the seam will be more even.
Remember the words: linen seams, double seam, hemming seam, hemming foot, cutter foot.
Questions
1. How do tools help with sewing?
2. How many steps are required to complete a sewing seam using a sewing foot?
3. How do you make seams of different widths using a chopper foot?
4. What kind of seams can be made using a limit ruler?
Machine parts connections
Movable and fixed connections of parts. Connections of machine parts can be movable or fixed. Movable called connections in which some parts can move relative to others. motionless These are connections in which the parts cannot move relative to each other.
In a sewing machine, an example of a movable connection is the connection of the foot drive starting wheel with the axis (Fig. 42, a), and a fixed connection is the connection of the winder pulley with the spindle (Fig. 42, b).
Detachable and permanent connections of parts. Movable and fixed connections can be detachable or permanent. Detachable connections can be repeatedly disassembled and reassembled without destroying parts. At permanent connection You cannot separate the parts without damaging the connection or one of the parts.
Examples of such connections in a sewing machine are the connections shown in Table 24.
Remember the words: movable and fixed connections, detachable and permanent connections.
Tasks
1. Review Table 24 and find the indicated connections on the sewing machine.
2. Determine the types of connections of the parts shown in the figure (Fig. 43).
Questions and tasks for reviewing the topic “Sewing on a sewing machine”
1. Name the parts of the foot drive of a sewing machine in the sequence of transmission of movement from the pedal to the flywheel.
2. Tell us about the sanitary and hygienic requirements when working on a foot-powered sewing machine.
3. What safety regulations warn you to be careful when handling a sewing machine drive belt?
4. What is the purpose of the needle grooves and why are they different lengths?
5. How to select and install the machine needle correctly?
6. How does the winder work?
7. What connecting seams do you know?
8. What linen seams do you know and what are their features?
9. What devices are used when making linen seams?
10. Fill out the table:
Household sewing machines have three types of drive devices - manual drive, foot drive and electric drive.
Some machines can be equipped with any type of drive (for example, all models of the Podolsk Mechanical Plant named after M.I. Kalinin; “Radom” or “Luchnik” (Poland); “Veritas” (GDR).
MANUAL DRIVE
The manual drive consists of a housing 1 (Fig. 17), which is attached to the machine sleeve with a bolt 13. A pair of cylindrical gears 4 and 6 with a gear ratio of 1: 3. The gears are closed by a cover 8, which is attached to the body with two screws 9. The small gear 6 is integral with the drive 3, which enters the flywheel window. The small gear is pivotally mounted on axis 5, and the large gear is mounted on axis 2. The large gear has lugs 12, to which handle 11 is attached using axis 7 and stopper 10. Stopper 10 is spring-loaded and can be pulled back when handle 11 is moved to the non-working position. The handle is moved to this position for storage or transportation to avoid breakage and reduce the size of the machine.
When the handle 11 is rotated, the leash 3 sets the flywheel of the machine in motion. You only need to rotate the handle away from you. In this case, the flywheel and the main shaft of the machine will rotate in the desired direction (i.e. towards themselves). For ease of movement, it is necessary to periodically lubricate the axes of the large and small gears.
FOOT DRIVE
If a household sewing machine is equipped with a table, then use a foot drive. To put the machine into working condition, it is necessary to connect the flywheel to the drive wheel 1 (Fig. 18) using a round leather belt 27 and a metal clip 28.
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The foot drive consists of a pedal 17, movably mounted on two axes 16. The axes 16 are secured with locknuts 24 on brackets 15, which in turn are bolted to the bottom 14 of the table. A bracket 18 is attached to the pedal 17 using screws. A sleeve 22 is inserted into the hole in the bracket and secured with a lock nut 19 (section S-S). A ball end of the rod 21 is inserted into the sleeve, which supports the thrust bearing 23 from below. To soften the impact and reduce knocking during operation, a leather washer 20 is placed between the thrust bearing 23 and the ball end of the rod 21. The upper end of the rod 21 is screwed into the head 26 and secured with a lock nut 13 (section B-B). A separator 12 is also inserted into the head and balls 7 are placed, which are pressed by a round nut 6. The axis 9 is fixedly attached to the drive wheel 1 by means of a washer 10 and nut 11. For ease of rotation, the balls 7 are lubricated with a thick lubricant, which retains its properties for a long time and provides normal work this node.
Drive wheel 1 with a central hole is hingedly mounted on axis 5 and held by head 4 (section A-A). Axle 5 is fixedly fixed in bracket 3 with bolt 2. Bracket 3 is attached to the side wall of the bedside table with three bolts 25. The foot drive frees the worker's hands to perform the sewing operation. Operating a machine with a foot drive requires a certain skill, although the significant mass and large diameter of the drive wheel contribute to uniform rotation of the main shaft of the machine during the jerky movement of the pedal 17.
ELECTRIC DRIVE
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The electric drive consists of a single-phase commutator asynchronous electric motor and a control rheostat. The electric motor can be built into the machine body or mounted. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. The built-in electric motor makes the machine more compact and better protected from external damage.
It is easier to repair an outboard engine, replace the contact brushes or drive belt. The most common domestic electric drive is MSh-2, produced by the Serpukhov plant. The mounted electric motor 7 (Fig. 19) is attached to bracket 1 with two brackets 6 using nuts 8. Bracket 1 is attached to the machine body with bolt 2 (like the manual drive housing bracket). Pulley 9, mounted on the electric motor shaft, clip belt 3 transmits rotation to flywheel 5, fixed to the main shaft of the machine with friction screw 4. .jpg)
In Fig. 20 shown electrical diagram electric drive. Electric motor D and control rheostat RP are sources of spark discharges that cause radio interference. To suppress radio interference, the plastic motor housing is coated on the inside special composition, which does not transmit radio interference into the air, and the rheostat is equipped with special capacitors C1 C2 C3 and inductive coils L1 and L2, which are a filter that prevents harmful current pulses from penetrating into the household electrical network.
The ballast control rheostat is located in a carbolite housing. It is made in the form of a foot pedal and serves to turn on the machine and regulate the speed of rotation of the main shaft during its operation.
The base 1 (Fig. 21) is connected to the cover 4 with four screws 27 through rubber bushings 26. The rheostat housing 10 is attached to the base 1 with two screws 11 with nuts 12 and washers 13. The rheostat is insulated from the body with asbestos washers. Two columns of carbon disks 33 with a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm are inserted into the holes of the housing 10.
Technical characteristics of the electric drive MSh-2
Two holders 8 are attached to the housing 10 with screws 9, into the holes of which carbon contacts 7 are inserted.
In the hole of the cover with inside a button 6 is inserted, the fork of which covers the pin 5 of the push lever 3. The lever 3 is hinged on an axis 38 inserted into the holes of the stand 39. The stand 39 is attached to the base 1 with a screw 2.
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The lower arm of the lever 3 is in contact with the pusher 37, which moves under the rheostat housing 10. The contact disk 16 rests against the fork located at the end of the pusher 37 under the action of the spring 15. The disk 16 is fixed to the rod 14. A sleeve 36 is put on the end of the rod 14, which under the action of the spring 15 is pressed against the head of the rod 14. A contact plate 34 and a limiting plate 35 are pressed onto the sleeve 36. Guide screws 32 are inserted into the hole of the rheostat housing 10 on the right. Contact plates 19 are attached to their ends. The plates 19 are attached to the plates 19 with washers 31 and nuts 30 wires 29 coming from capacitor 23.
Chokes 18 and 28 are also connected to plates 19. The ends of wires 25 connecting the pedal to the electric motor are soldered to the capacitor 23. The chokes 18 and 28 inserted into the holes of the base 1 are covered by a bracket 22 attached to the base 1 with a screw 21. Turning on plug pedals to the power supply, you need to press button 6 with your foot. Lever 3 will turn clockwise and move the pusher 37, which, moving to the right, through the contact plate 34 will press contacts 7. The disks 33 will tighten, and the electric motor circuit will be closed through a carbon rheostat. The harder you press button 6, the tighter the disks 33 will be pressed, the resistance between them will decrease, and the rotation speed of the main shaft of the machine will increase. When you press button 6 all the way, the contact disk 16 will come into contact with the contact plates 19, and the current, bypassing the carbon disks, will flow through the winding of the electric motor. At this time, the electric motor shaft will rotate at a frequency of 6000 rpm. When button 6 is fully released, spring 15 will open contact plate 34 with contacts 7. Current will not be able to flow through the electric motor circuit and the electric motor will turn off.
Sewing machines of the 20th century were always produced with foot and hand drives. But more often with a leg one. In this article, I will show how it works. And what malfunctions happen to it. The main reason, malfunctions, is:
- Not knowing the device.
- Lack of knowledge, sequence, disassembly to perform a preventive inspection.
- In time, add lubricant.
On photo 1, foot drive.
- Drive wheel.
- Axle, drive wheel.
- Fastening bolt, core, to the hub.
- Attaching the rod to the drive wheel.
- Shaped screw.
- Curly nut.
- Bracket connecting the pedal to the rod.
- Pedal.
- Cone screw with lock nut.
- Drive belt.
Photo 1.
On Photo 2 shows the attachment point for the rod to the pedal.
If, when you press the pedal while sewing, you hear a knocking sound in the pedal area, then you need to:
- Stop working immediately. Otherwise the drive will be broken!
- Inspect the components and drive!
Disconnecting the rod from the pedal:
On rod No. 1, there is a figured screw No. 3. A ball No. 2 is welded to the bottom of the rod. A figured screw is inserted into the hole in bracket No. 5. This bracket No. 5 is screwed with screws to a wooden pedal. It is impossible to get to the screws!
This is what leads to confusion, how to sort it out?
But everything ingenious is simple:
On screw No. 3, screw cap nut No. 4. You need two open-end wrenches to unscrew it.
- Traction.
- Shaped screw.
- Plug nut.
- Bracket, pedal mounting.
- Fastening screws.
- (Wooden) pedal.
The pedal can be made of wood or metal!
Photo 2.
On Photo 3 shows the drive wheel mounting assembly on the hub.
- Fastening bolt, washers No. 2.
- Retaining washer, drive wheel No. 3.
- Core No. 4 is inserted into the drive wheel.
- The core is inserted into hub No. 6.
- Bolt locking the position of core No. 4 in hub No. 6.
- The hub is attached (with screws or screws) to the right vertical post of the frame No. 7.
- Vertical stand, horizontal table top.
Photo 3.
Ciatim lubricant is applied to the balls. And in case of prevention, without disassembling the unit, a few drops of oil I 18 A are enough. From this:
- Thickened grease will become limp.
- The creaking will disappear.
Lubricant is changed every 3-4 years!
On photo 4, connecting the rod to the wheel.
- Nut, sector key.
- Head housing.
- Bearing balls.
- The axis is a threaded core at the right end.
- Lock nut.
- Drive wheel.
- Rod locknut.
- Traction.
I have long been interested in the topic of what will happen without electricity and fuel, or everything will collapse or we need to invent it.
I found an article with interesting drawings and photographs of machines with manual (foot) drive.
The machines are quite simple, it is not difficult to understand and make them yourself.
Here is a partial reprint of the article:
The prehistory of the appearance of the first machines begins with the most ancient historical periods, when our ancestors, who had primitive tools (mainly made of stone), drilled holes, for example, to attach a hammer or an ax to a stick. And even then a device arose that was constructed in approximately the following simple way. A rod was cut out of strong wood, one end of which was pointed. With this pointed end, the rod rested against a depression in the stone filled with fine-grained sand. The bow string was twisted spirally around the rod. When the bow was set in motion, the rod began to rotate (like a drill), which ensured that the recess was ground with sand. As a result, a hole was drilled in the stone. 
Paleolithic hole drilling device
In ancient times, equipment for processing ceramics and wood also existed in Greece and Rome. According to the historian Pliny, a certain Theodore, a resident of the island of Samos (in the Aegean Sea), 400 years BC successfully used a device on which mechanically rotating (from a foot drive) metal products were turned. Ancient jewelry testifying to this has survived to this day.
A drawing of a lathe that has survived to this day.
Greek master Theodore (VI century BC)
Yes, back in ancient Egypt a lathe with a manually operated beam was used. Stone and wooden products were turned on this device. In this distant prototype of modern machine tools such basic structural elements machine, like a bed, headstock, stands for cutters, etc. Both hands of the worker took an active part in the work of the “machine”. The return rotation of the product and the feeding of the cutter required great physical effort from a person. These “machines”, with minor modifications, were used for many centuries in different countries peace. 
“Machine” with a manual beam drive, used in
ancient Egypt for turning
Working on an ancient Egyptian lathe
Subsequently, the turning device underwent a number of design changes. It was set in motion by a person’s foot and tied with a whip to two neighboring trees. The workpiece was fastened between two sharpened stakes tied to tree trunks.
Foot driven lathe
The rotation of the product was carried out by a rope, the upper end of which was tied to a springy tree branch, in the middle the rope wrapped around the product, and the lower end of the rope ended in a loop. The person inserted his foot into the loop, and by pressing and releasing the rope, he brought the product into a rotational movement. This turning device was used for a very long time in a wide variety of modifications.At the beginning of the 15th century, the base of the lathe was a wooden bench. On the bench-frame there were two headstocks connected by a block that served as a support for the cutter. This relieved the turner of the need to hold the cutter suspended. The machine parts were made of wood. A flexible pole mounted on a pole hung over the machine. A rope was attached to the end of the pole. The rope was wrapped around the shaft, lowered down and tied to a wooden pedal. By pressing the pedal, the turner rotated the part. When the turner released the pedal, the flexible pole pulled the rope back. At the same time, the workpiece rotated in reverse side, so the turner had to, as in archery machines, alternately press and then push back the cutter.
Foot driven lathe
(from the book “The House of Mendel’s 12 Brothers”, 1400)
At the beginning of the 17th century, machines with a continuous manual cable drive from a flywheel located behind the machine began to be used. The following figure shows a lathe described in the book of Solomon de Caux, published in France in 1615. The ends of the product were processed on this machine, and the carriage support was pressed against the copier with weights. 
Lathe with manual cable drive from a flywheel
(from the book of Solomon de Caux, 1615)
(from the site tool-land.ru) From the pictures you can clearly imagine what the simplest machines look like, and if something happens, it’s not difficult to reproduce them.
