Royal geranium, which is otherwise called pelargonium, received such a majestic name for a reason. This plant is distinguished by its amazing beauty, elegance and grace. However, it also requires royal care. Unlike its counterparts of other varieties, this representative of the flora needs specific care and constant attention. If you don’t give the flower what it needs, you may never see lush buds.
The beautiful royal is a native South America, where humid and hot climate. That is why it feels great in warm rooms with high humidity. This amazing flower was brought to Europe only at the end of the 18th century. IN as soon as possible it has gained immense popularity among gardeners. Since that moment, breeders have been carrying out continuous work, as a result of which more and more new varieties of royal pelargonium are being born. It is difficult to name the exact number of species known today.
At home, this noble representative of the flora grows to a height of 60-80 cm. Growing taller bushes is not considered advisable, since flowers appear only at the highest points of growth. If geranium reaches 1 m in height, it completely loses its decorative qualities. However, if you are a fan of experimentation, you can try growing a 1.5 m tall bush in open ground. It will become an excellent backdrop for short garden inhabitants.
Description of the royal plant
home distinctive feature royal geranium - gorgeous inflorescences. They can reach 25 cm in width. But to achieve such splendor, it is necessary to ensure proper care behind the plant. The more fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus you apply in preparation for flowering, the larger the buds will be. Typically, medium-sized inflorescences are found - about 15 cm.
All royals have oval spots in the central part of the petal. They are darker and more saturated than other areas. There are both classic and double royal pelargoniums. The latter look more advantageous. The shades of the buds amaze with their diversity. There are specimens of yellow, dazzling white, purple, red, pink and even orange flowers.
The petals of plants can be either flat, concave, or slightly wavy. The ruffled flower varieties of the royal plant are rare. The leaves are serrated, oval or round in shape. Their surface is usually rough and quite pleasant to the touch. The shade of the leaves depends on the general condition of the royal individual. If the flower is healthy and provided with everything necessary, its foliage has a rich emerald color. The central trunk and all shoots are tightly covered. And if the plant feels unwell, the foliage fades and parts of the bush become bare.
Unlike other varieties of geranium, the royal individual has a rather short flowering period. As a rule, it does not exceed six months. The indoor plant blooms in early spring.
Royal pelargonium (video)
What maintenance conditions does the flower need?
Like all representatives of the nobility, royal geranium makes high demands on living conditions. To make your pet feel comfortable, you must follow 4 basic rules.
- Royal geranium absolutely does not tolerate either waterlogging or drying out of the soil. In addition, she suffers from direct sun rays and winds. Therefore, experienced gardeners strongly do not recommend planting this flower in the summer. open ground. Unlike his relatives, he will not be happy with such hardening. The only thing you can do in the summer is to take the pelargonium directly in a pot onto the balcony or garden. It is important to ensure that the plant is in partial shade and does not stand in a draft. Geraniums living on a windowsill need shading in the summer. If this is not done, sunburn may form on the leaves.
- Another rule that a gardener should write down in his diary: the royal specimen should not experience a lack of light throughout the year. Unlike zonal geraniums, which accumulate sunlight over the summer for the entire coming year and winter well even in rooms with poor lighting, the royal plant cannot live in the dark. With a lack of lighting, it stretches upward and also does not have the strength to lay buds for the next flowering. Therefore, for the lush flowering of this fastidious beauty, flower growers are recommended to purchase special fluorescent lamps.
- In order for geraniums to begin to bloom, care must be taken to maintain a special temperature regime. In winter, the plant feels great at 12-15°C. In such conditions, it lays buds for flowering next season. If the temperature is elevated and exceeds 24°C, the flower begins to experience discomfort. IN best case scenario it stops blooming, or at worst, stops growing completely.
- When caring for a royal specimen, special attention must be paid to watering. It is necessary to select the intensity of soil moisture taking into account the temperature regime. In summer, watering should be moderate and regular, in winter - sparing and quite rare. Experienced gardeners It is recommended not to pour the liquid from above, but to pour it into the pan. This is due to the fact that royal geranium does not tolerate soil compaction quite well. For watering it is better to take rainwater, or clean, settled liquid.
When and how to replant a plant?
Unlike its fellow plants, which endure annual replanting to and from the garden, the royal specimen is not a fan of such movements. It’s better not to disturb him with a transplant again. You only need to change the pot if it has grown root system no longer fits in the old one. Until this point, you can limit yourself to only periodically adding fresh soil to the container.
It is recommended to replant pelargonium once every 2 years. If this procedure is not completed in time, the plant may not bloom or there will be very few flowers on the bush. It is better to transplant as early as possible. The optimal time is early February. Afterwards, the flower begins to form buds and blooms.
The soil for the royal individual is no different from the soil that is suitable for other representatives of the species. You can prepare it yourself by mixing in equal parts:
- turf land;
- peat;
- deciduous soil;
- river sand.
Care must be taken to create a drainage layer. Otherwise, the plant risks dying due to stagnation of water at the roots. Expanded clay, crushed stone, and crushed sand can be used as drainage. Ceramic pots are best suited for growing hydrangeas. They ensure uniform distribution of air and maintain a suitable temperature of the earth ball. After transplantation, attention to the flower should be increased.
What fertilizers does geranium need?
Royal geranium needs fertilizer during the period of active growth, bud formation, and flowering. Nutrients must be added every 2 weeks from late March to mid-November. It is better to use liquid fertilizers, for example, good remedy is an iodine solution. To prepare it, add 1 drop of the substance to 1 liter of water. About 50 ml of the prepared composition is carefully poured over the walls of the pot. When removing a larger volume of fertilizer, there is a risk of damage to the root system.
You can also use purchased mineral fertilizers to feed the plant. However, it is important to ensure that nitrogen does not predominate in their composition. Otherwise, the stems and leaves will actively grow, but there will be noticeably fewer buds. It is better to choose mixtures with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. They will provide long and abundant flowering.
It is not recommended to use fresh organic matter as fertilizer for geraniums. The royal plant simply does not accept such feeding.
When and how is pruning done?
Improper pruning is one of the most common mistakes made by beginners when growing royal geraniums at home. Most gardeners believe that optimal time To carry out this procedure is the beginning of spring. However, this opinion is wrong. It is better if pruning is carried out immediately after flowering has completed, that is, at the end of August or beginning of September. If you treat the bush in the spring, it is unlikely to bloom next season.
It is optimal if pruning is carried out in 2 steps with an interval between sessions of 1-1.5 months. In this case, the royal person will experience less stress and will endure the procedure more easily. After removing excess parts of the plant, be sure to pamper the geranium with fertilizers.
If pruning is done correctly and on time, young shoots will begin to appear on the geranium in the fall. They must be pinched over 4-5 pairs of leaves. In this case, new stems will grow even more actively. Professional flower growers who create excellent exhibition specimens carry out an average of 3-4 pinchings per season. As a result, by spring the decorative bush takes on a compact shape and blooms profusely. The number of pinchings for amateur gardeners largely depends on the conditions under which the plant is kept. Don’t forget: in any case, the last procedure must be carried out no later than the beginning of February. If during the winter the bush has become very elongated, it will be better if, instead of final pinching, the overgrown shoots are pruned.
Proper care of geraniums (video)
Plant propagation methods
Cuttings are the simplest, most effective and common method of propagating royal geraniums. For it, you can use the tops with 3-4 pairs of leaves obtained during pruning. However, you need to know that cuttings of this plant cannot be rooted in water. In conditions high humidity they do not grow roots, but only rot.
To propagate a bush, it is necessary to create cutting points charcoal, dry it a little and immediately plant the cuttings in the ground. Optimal soil composition: a mixture of equal parts of perlite and peat. It is recommended to immediately plant young plants in separate pots; you can also use peat cups. This will prevent the mass death of green pets if care and reproduction were carried out incorrectly.
After about 1-2 months, the plants will take root completely, after which they can be transplanted into a nutrient mixture consisting of turf and deciduous soil, sand and peat, mixed in equal parts. There is no need to cover the cuttings with jars or polyethylene; it is enough to keep them in a warm room with moderate lighting, ensuring timely watering.
For lush flowering and full growth during the growing season, young bushes must be fed periodically. It is better to use mineral fertilizers with low nitrogen content. During flowering, which, if properly cared for, occurs approximately 6-9 months after rooting, it is recommended to use fertilizers for flowering indoor plants. You can purchase them at any specialized store.
The royal specimen, unlike other types of pelargonium, does not like to reproduce by seeds. Usually, when using this method, the characteristics of double and semi-double quality of the most beautiful mother varieties are not transmitted. However, if you are a fan of experiments, be sure to try growing wonderful geraniums from seeds. You may be able to create a new look.
Why doesn't royal geranium bloom?
Amateur flower growers who have become owners of a beautiful royal geranium are looking forward to the moment when the beautiful green pet blooms. However, they often have to experience disappointment: instead of the most beautiful large inflorescences, the fastidious royal geranium produces only abundant foliage, and the rapidly growing shoots stretch out and spoil the whole appearance. Why is this happening? Most likely, when caring for the plant, the basic rules were violated:
- the bush suffers from lack of lighting or due to incorrectly selected temperature conditions;
- the flower lives in a pot that is too large;
- applied fertilizers have an unbalanced composition;
- the transplant was not carried out on time;
- pruning was performed in violation of basic rules or was completely absent.
All reasons for the lack of flowering can be eliminated quite easily. Once this is done, the marvelous royal will delight your lush flowering.
What diseases and pests are dangerous for geraniums?
Like any other indoor plants, royal pelargonium susceptible to diseases and pests. Typically, illnesses attack a green pet due to violations of the conditions of detention. However, if you constantly monitor the plant and take timely measures, dangerous consequences the invasion will be avoided.
- If your indoor beauty's leaves have turned yellow, she may be suffering from a lack of moisture or nutrient deficiency. The same symptom indicates that the pot is too crowded and even overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers.
- The leaves have become limp and drooping, and mold or mildew has formed on them. brown spots? Look for the cause in excessive watering. Excessive moisture can also cause the appearance of depressed dark spots on the stems.
- The falling of the lower foliage, the exposure of the stem and the stretching of the top of the bush are clear signs that the green pet is suffering from a lack of lighting. If added to this is an incorrectly selected temperature regime, you can’t expect lush flowering of geraniums.
Sick and depressed plants become easy prey for pests. Royal pelargonium can be attacked by whiteflies, aphids,. Action must be taken immediately after uninvited guests discovered. It is necessary to isolate the affected plant from other indoor pets and treat its leaves with a soap solution. If this does not help, spraying with insecticides is required.
Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving High Quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.
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Pelargonium royal differs from other species requirements for content and aristocratic and royal appearance.
She happens to be capricious plant , which blooms less than other varieties, does not tolerate being outdoors and is difficult to reproduce.
Despite all the difficulties, the royal flower has many admirers. They are ready to make any sacrifice to see the noble pelargonium bloom.
Location and lighting
Royal pelargonium high illumination required. It is placed on window sills of western or eastern orientation.
You can also place the flower near the south window, then you will definitely need shading with curtains: the flower does not tolerate exposure to direct sunlight leaving burns on the leaves.
IN warm weather the flower pot can be moved to the balcony, loggia or veranda. Here she will receive a sufficient amount of sunlight, and in the afternoon she will be covered with light partial shade.
Pelargonium afraid of precipitation, therefore, when placed on a balcony or veranda, it is protected from rain.
Tips for caring for royal pelarony:
Royal pelargonium is not planted in a flower garden in open ground. It cannot stand even a slight breath of wind and is difficult to respond to transplantation, so frequent transfer from one place to another can destroy the plant.
IN winter time the flower will need additional lighting organized with the help of a phytolamp. If this recommendation is neglected, during the winter months the plant will stretch out, will not set buds and will not bloom in the next season.
During the rest period, that is in winter, geraniums are placed in a cool place. There should be no batteries near the plant central heating drying the air.
It is not recommended to place the plant next to an opening window: it afraid of exposure to drafts.
Temperature
In spring and summer in the room where the plant is kept, the temperature should be at twenty-four degrees.
In winter, the plant is provided with a period of rest and are kept at temperatures of ten to fourteen degrees.
Only if such a temperature is maintained in the room where the plant is kept will it lay buds for subsequent flowering. Fever causes growth and development to stop.
Watering and humidity
The frequency of watering royal pelargonium depends on the temperature in the room where it is located. In spring and summer, when the flower is actively developing and blooming, it is watered regularly and moderately.
The plant loves water very much, so in the summer months it is recommended to water it twice a day - in the morning and in the evening after sunset. In winter, watering is reduced to once a day.
Between waterings upper layer the soil must be allowed to dry out: Make sure of this before you wet the soil again. Excess liquid provokes rotting of the root system and the occurrence of infectious diseases.
The earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out., this negatively affects subsequent flowering. On mature plant spend about fifty milliliters at a time, this amount will be just enough to moisten the earthen mixture.
Hybrids of this species require more water because they are kept at a higher temperature.
In summer, the plant is watered twice a day, in winter - once. For watering use soft, settled, boiled or rain water room temperature .
Some gardeners recommend not watering from above, but pouring water into a tray, because the flower reacts heavily to the strong compaction of the soil in the pot. This method allows the root system to take as much moisture from the pan as it needs.
If the air in the room is not too dry, the spraying procedure is not resorted to, because geranium does not easily tolerate water on leaves and flowers. Bathing in a warm shower is also harmful to the plant.
Top dressing
Royal pelargonium is periodically fed. During the period of growth and flowering, that is, in spring and summer, fertilize the flower once a week using mineral fertilizers.
Additional nutrition is especially necessary for a young plant that is just getting accustomed to new soil. At this time, a complex fertilizer intended for young specimens is usually used.
Before flowering(the very first and subsequent ones) pelargonium is fed with food containing potassium and phosphorus. This fertilizer begins to be used two to three months before the first flowers appear, that is, at the end of March.
Prohibited use organic fertilizers , especially fresh.
Trimming
It is important to learn how to prune royal pelargonium correctly. Some gardeners resort to this procedure in the spring, not knowing that pruning done during this period will affect flowering and delay it for a year.
The bush is formed after the end of flowering, around the end of the summer months or the beginning of autumn.
Pruning includes two procedures, which are performed at intervals of one and a half months in order to injure the pelargonium less.
In autumn, the plant actively develops new shoots that pinch off after the formation of the fourth or fifth pair of leaves. Pinching causes new young shoots to appear.
Professional flower growers who prepare their pelargoniums for exhibitions resort to pinching about three to four times. This helps the plant form into a compact bush and bloom profusely in the new season.
The last pinching must be carried out no later than the end of January.. Pelargonium can become very elongated during wintering, then instead of pinching the shoots are pruned.
The secret to forming a lush bush:
Choosing a pot, soil and replanting
For each transplant, use a pot that is two centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one.
You cannot plant a young plant immediately in a large container., this can lead to acidification of the soil, which the root system will not have time to develop.
Soil for royal pelargonium can be purchased at a specialized store or prepared independently by mixing humus, leaf and turf soil, sand and peat in equal parts.
The plant does well in neutral soil or slightly alkaline soil. To reduce acidity, add ash to the pot, which is also an excellent fertilizer.
Definitely in the potty lay high-quality drainage from pebbles or expanded clay.
Royal pelargonium replanted once every two to three years, because the plant has a hard time moving into a new container. Frequent replanting slows down flowering.
Most the right time for this procedure – spring months. The plant is replanted when the roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes.
Flower propagation
Cuttings
The easiest way to propagate royal pelargonium is resort to the cutting method. A short cutting is separated from the mother plant by cutting it below the internode at an angle of forty-five degrees.
The cutting areas are sprinkled with charcoal and the cuttings are left to dry for four to five hours.
After that cuttings are planted in a specially prepared mixture of peat, which is mixed with sand or perlite. Also suitable for this purpose peat tablets, sold in a flower shop.
Each cutting is planted in a separate container, and after the roots appear, it is moved into the earthen mixture necessary for royal pelargonium.
Reproduction by cuttings:
How to care
After replanting, manipulations are carried out to stimulate active branching and flowering: the young plant is pinched above the third leaves. The following pinchings are carried out as necessary.
During the growth period, pelargonium is fed with fertilizers that contain no more than eleven percent nitrogen. An increased nitrogen content will provoke an increase in green mass, rather than the appearance of buds.
Flowering stimulating agents are used only nine to ten months after the roots appear on the cuttings.
Can it be propagated by seeds?
It is also possible to propagate pelargonium using seeds, but this is much more difficult. As a result of this method, more viable specimens grow with an extended flowering period.
Small elongated seeds are purchased in the store. In mid-February, they are planted in a container with peat and sand, deepened by half a centimeter.
A month later, sprouts appear, which are planted in separate pots after a pair of true leaves appear.
Diseases and pests
Whitefly. The insect resembles a white butterfly, only one to two millimeters in size. Symptoms of attack: the appearance of yellow spots on the leaves.
Fighting methods: the plant is removed from the room with dry warm air. A heavily infected specimen is shed with Aktara three times with an interval of six to seven days.
If the pest has just begun its destructive activity, it can be washed off with water by washing the leaves laundry soap. Then the royal pelargonium is covered with a bag for half an hour.
Blackleg. Reason: excess moisture, low temperatures, dense soil, large capacity. Symptoms: tissue softening. It is not possible to save the flower, so the plant is destroyed.
Aphid. Symptoms: curling leaves, falling buds, presence of shavings white. Get rid of pests by washing the back of the leaves with chamomile infusion or green soap.
Rust. Symptoms: the appearance of red-brown spots on the leaves, drying out and falling off. Treatment: cutting out damaged parts of the plant, using fungicides: “Topaz”, “Fitosporin-M”.
Why doesn't it bloom? What to do to ensure flowering?
It often happens that royal pelargonium (geranium) refuses to bloom at home. This is due to errors in the content. You should always follow the instructions on how to properly care for your flower as closely as possible.
Why doesn't large-flowered pelargonium bloom? Flowers may not appear above showy green foliage due to insufficient lighting or unsuitable temperatures.
Pot size affects flowering: A plant placed in a container that is too large will not bloom. Fertilizers with the wrong composition also stop flowering.
Pelargonium also refuses to bloom due to the transplant not being completed on time and improper care: incorrect pruning or its complete absence.
Trying to make pelargonium bloom, flower growers resort to the method of grafting onto other plant species. Fragrant pelargonium and a variety called “unique” are suitable for this purpose.
Vaccination is carried out as follows: prepare a twig with two leaves, make a one-centimeter long cut on it.
An identical cut is made on the second plant, after which a branch is attached, combining the two cuts and tying them with woolen thread. The procedure is carried out in virtually sterile conditions.
Pelargonium does not bloom if winter period she was not provided with peace. Lush and abundant flowering will please the gardener only if in winter all maintenance conditions have been met to ensure rest for the plant.
Pelargonium royal fully lives up to its name. She looks like a truly royal person, blooming flowers of stunning beauty and demanding increased attention to herself.
Geranium, or, as our grandmothers affectionately called this flower, “kalachik,” is found in almost every home. Dark green, slightly hairy leaves and gorgeous flowers in a variety of shades create a cozy home. There was a time when this flower, along with ficus, was called bourgeois, but, fortunately, these times have sunk into oblivion, and geranium continues to delight us with its flowering.
Among the numerous geranium family there are plants that are completely unpretentious in care; even a beginner in floriculture can cope with their cultivation. But perhaps not everyone knows that among these plants there is a variety that has been awarded the title of royal. This flower can hardly be called just a geranium; many inexperienced flower growers will not find any similarity between it and their cute and more modest one. And of course, it is unlikely that anyone will call it a “ball”.
The heroine of our article will be the luxurious royal indoor geranium. This is a complex plant that requires constant attention and careful care. But we assure you, your efforts will be richly rewarded when you see the royal geranium bloom.
Description
Royal geranium, or is a representative of a large genus that has more than 250 species. This is magnificent indoor flower, which, with proper care, pleases owners with huge (15 cm) flowers of extraordinary beauty of various colors.
It is native to the humid and hot climate of South America. It thrives in conditions of high air humidity and does not tolerate direct sunlight. At home, royal pelargonium grows up to 60-80 cm. More tall plant it makes no sense to grow, since the buds are only at the apical points of growth. At a height of 100 centimeters, the plant completely loses its decorative properties.
Today, many flower growers are interested in the royal plant at home because such a magnificent plant has many pitfalls that must be avoided in order for the capricious beauty to please with its flowering. It must be remembered that even with full compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to extend the flowering period of royal geraniums. It is significantly shorter than that of ordinary species.
Royal geranium does not bloom: what to do?
This question worries many gardeners. There may be several reasons for this. To understand them, you need to understand what the royal needs behind this plant suggest right choice containers for planting, correct soil, timely watering and pruning, ensuring a winter dormancy period, replanting if necessary.
Let's take a closer look at the reasons why geraniums refuse to bloom. If the plant is planted in a pot that is too large, pelargonium begins to actively increase green mass and grow. In this situation, the plant simply does not have enough strength to flower, since its energy is spent on the growth of the root system and landscaping. Replant the flower in a smaller vase.
Another reason is that the roots of the flower are damaged. You should know that royal geranium is susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections root system. It is not easy to immediately identify the disease. This becomes visible when the disease affects the stems and leaves. Geranium suffers from a lack of nutrients. In this case, the plant is treated with antiseptics, which are sold in all flower shops. However, if the disease is advanced, it is rarely possible to save the plant. Flower growers should know that any disease and pests (aphids, weevils, mites, etc.) force the plant to spend all its energy fighting them. Flowering in such a situation is out of the question.
Another fairly common reason is the absence of a resting phase. What should you do in this case? Reduce watering in the autumn-winter period, do not feed the flower. Move the plant to a cooler place (for example, to a loggia). Heat in winter is detrimental to royal geraniums. Watering also affects the flowering of the plant, although not as much as the above reasons. What kind of watering geranium requires and why proper pruning is very important for it, we will tell you below.
Watering
Probably, after looking at the photos presented in our article, many will really like royal geranium. Caring for this beauty at home has its own characteristics. In particular, this applies to watering. It is better to carry out this procedure through a pallet. The plant will regulate itself required amount moisture. Water for irrigation should be settled and at room temperature; you can use boiled, cooled water.
Before flowering, the leaves should be sprayed from time to time. A dry crust that appears on the top layer of soil is a signal to water. Excessive moisture can cause plant diseases, and its deficiency leads to the absence of flowers.
Royal geranium: pruning for lush flowering
Quite often, flower growers make a very common mistake in caring for this plant - pruning is done in the spring. It would seem that this is the right time, but in this case the royal geranium may stop blooming. Pruning for lush flowering should be done in autumn and winter.
Often improper pruning leads to the fact that the plant grows too long stems and it loses its decorative appeal. To form a beautiful crown, you must strictly follow simple rules:
Autumn pruning
Experienced flower growers know that royal geranium is very responsive to proper bush formation. Pruning for lush flowering is most often done immediately after the pelargonium has faded. This usually happens at the end of August. This procedure should be carried out in two stages with an interval of 1.5 months. This is necessary in order to prevent severe stress plants.
With such an early autumn pruning Royal geranium grows new shoots very quickly. Pinching them (above the fourth pair of leaves) stimulates the formation of new young shoots.
Trimming order
In order for pelargonium to delight you with lush flowering, you should follow a certain order:
Winter pruning
Experienced flower growers note that on short winter days, in the absence of sunlight, royal geranium grows tall. At this time, pruning for lush flowering is partially replaced by pinching, and long emerging shoots are cut off.
In April, royal pelargonium begins to bloom, so pruning should be stopped in mid-March. To maintain the shape of the bush, pinching can be done in the summer, after flowering. It is strictly not recommended to prune geraniums from December to February, so as not to disturb the dormant period. resting. At this time, it requires minimal watering and a lighted, cool (temperature no higher than 15 degrees) place.
Reproduction
Royal geranium is propagated, like ordinary varieties, by cuttings. At the end of August, cut cuttings 7-9 cm long, leave them in the air for several hours, and then plant them in a peat-sand mixture. Using plastic bag, create a greenhouse effect and make sure that soil mixture was always hydrated. Then prepare a mixture of sand, turf and leaf soil and plant the rooted cuttings.
We told you what is required for royal geranium to delight you with its beauty. The care and propagation of this luxurious plant are somewhat different from ordinary species. But if you follow all the rules of agricultural technology, this marvelous flower will reward you for your efforts with lush flowering, which, unfortunately, does not last too long.
Royal pelargonium, or as it is also called royal geranium, is a very beautiful flower(plant), whose history begins in South America. As you already know, it has a tropical climate. Royal pelargonium was brought to Europe around the eighteenth century, and it was from that very moment that breeders began to develop a huge number of varieties of this flower.
This plant is very popular for its the most beautiful flowers, however, for this you need to take very close care of it.
If you properly and carefully monitor and care for royal pelargonium, the diameter of the inflorescences can reach as much as twenty-five centimeters. But basically, the average size of inflorescences is fifteen centimeters.
Peduncles have different lengths, from approximately five to ten centimeters, and the size is inversely proportional to the area (size) of the inflorescences.
The diameter of the flower is from five to seven centimeters. In the bud itself, the leaves overlap those below them in the form of a fan. Color and shape come out randomly.
You can also find a variety with purple, lilac and white flowers. Most likely, there is no such color of a red hue in which the flowers of the flower were simply not painted.
The buds themselves come with contrasting inclusions in the center or are of the same type. In their shape they can be terry or simple with wavy, smooth or corrugated edges. Flowers just look great in photographs.
Flowering will last from three to four months, unless, of course, the royal pelargonium is very well cared for and provided with excellent nutrition. 
Flowering is much shorter than other types of pelargonium. You can extend this period only with the timely removal of dried buds, as well as the application of fertilizers (mineral) with phosphorus and potassium; some people who work with flowers do a special grafting of royal pelargonium onto other types of this flower.
There is no smell during the flowering period, at least not a strong one, so most people consider this more an advantage than a disadvantage, because not everyone likes the rich aroma of pelargonium (due to allergies, for example).
Caring for royal pelargonium at home
As we have already said, caring for royal pelargonium at home is a rather complex process. Even with the slightest violation of the rules for caring for the plant, flowering simply disappears.
Royal pelargonium grows very poorly in the shade, however, it also does not approve of direct rays of the sun; the leaves can get so-called burns.
Overwatering or underwatering will have an equally bad effect on royal pelargonium. The flower can also be affected by various kinds of pests and diseases. These are some of the most important rules for caring for the royal pelargonium plant at home.
Light - Royal pelargonium loves sunlight in the right proportions, then it will bloom very profusely and for a long time. You also have the opportunity to place the plant on a southern windowsill, but you will need to watch it so that direct rays of the sun do not hit the leaves, otherwise they will get burned. 
In winter, it is necessary to illuminate the royal pelargonium additionally, because if the plant does not have enough light, the stems will become very elongated.
Temperature - In summer, the temperature in the room where the flower is located should not reach twenty-four degrees. In winter, the flower should be given the necessary rest; such a period of calm is possible only at a temperature of twelve to fifteen degrees.
If you do not follow this, then the royal pelargonium simply will not bloom. The exact same thing can happen if pelargonium overheats or even if you simply place the flower in a pot in a draft.
Watering – The flower loves moisture, so pelargonium needs to be watered very often and abundantly. Between every two waterings, the top layer of soil should dry out. Some people who deal with flowers advise others to water royal pelargonium in a tray, and not in the pot itself. The water must settle sufficiently before watering; you can also use boiled water. 
Humidity - If the room is very dry, then there is no need to spray pelargonium. The flower is very afraid of water getting on the flowers and leaves.
Fertilizers – Fertilizing should be carried out in summer and spring period s (when flowering occurs). The best way will be the use of fertilizers with sufficient phosphorus and potassium content ( mineral fertilizer), in this case you can extend the flowering period of royal pelargonium by another ten to fifteen days. Fertilizers need to be applied once every two weeks.
The soil - Royal pelargonium loves soil with a weak alkaline reaction or simple (neutral). In order to reduce acidity, you need to add ash to the pot, since ash is also considered a fertilizer.
It is important to ensure good and correct drainage for pelargonium, this is necessary so that water does not stagnate in the so-called flowerpot. 
If you can provide royal pelargonium with maximum proper care, then your flower will be able to go through a flowering period absolutely every year for two to three months (if you have excellent fertilizer, you can prolong flowering even longer).
Most people who have royal pelargonium, despite the huge number of difficulties and factors, are simply happy and satisfied with the presence of this flower in their home, because the beauty of pelargonium is worth the effort that people put into growing this species.
Reproduction, as well as pruning and grafting
Royal pelargonium really likes propagation by cuttings - this is the most popular, simple and effective method.
However, it should be remembered that rooting in water is generally unsuccessful, because the cutting simply rots and then never takes on new roots, so it should be planted directly in the ground.
So to speak, cuttings are carried out mainly in the second half of the last month of the summer period (August), or at the beginning of the month autumn period(September). The branch is cut from the very top, seven to ten centimeters long.
The cutting must have at least two or three nodes. After cutting it, leave it alone for a couple of hours so that everything dries out a little, after which it is planted in moderately moist soil with fairly good drainage. We recommend mixing the soil with sand (coarse). The cuttings do not need to be covered with film.
In order to protect the sprout from all sorts of diseases, the soil is fried in the oven or treated with a special concentrated solution with the addition of potassium permanganate.
After such special treatment, all royal pelargonium cuttings are planted in the ground, but planting must be done no earlier than forty-eight hours later, because the ground must be prepared first.
After fourteen days (or more), when the rooting period ends, the plant is planted in a pot. In order to speed up this process, we recommend that you very carefully pinch off the leaves on the branch, in which case absolutely all the energy of the pelargonium will go towards the formation of new roots.
Propagation by seeds- probably the most labor-intensive process, but if you succeed, you will be able to breed very hardy pelargonium plants with a fairly extended flowering period.
Special seed material is purchased in stores. The seeds are oblong in shape, but somewhat small. These seeds are planted in a small shallow container.
The soil must be somewhat structural, the most the best option there will be a mixture of sand and peat, plus ash. The seeds are deepened into the ground half a centimeter.
The planting itself is carried out in the middle of the winter period (February, preferably in the middle). The very first shoots appear after about thirty days. At the moment when the sprouts already have two real leaves, they carry out the so-called picking into a smaller pot.
In winter, royal pelargonium stretches out because it does not have enough light. We advise you to prune it before the flowering period begins. Around the end of February. The tops of the branches need to be cut off very carefully in order to form a very beautiful crown.
They can also be used to propagate plants. The pruning process itself should not be radical, because the flower will stop blooming.
Royal pelargonium is rarely replanted, once every two to three years.. It is necessary to remember that pelargonium blooms only in a cramped pot; a very spacious flowerpot will not work.
You can force royal pelargonium to bloom a little longer only with the help of a special grafting on other species. Best choice there will be fragrant pelargonium or a unique species. Royal pelargonium simply does not take root on zonal pelargonium.
To graft, you need to take a twig with three or two leaves, make a cut (necessarily oblique) in length from one centimeter to one and a half.
You must make exactly the same cut on pelargonium, after which you need to correctly combine the plant with the branch, then you can tie it with woolen thread or simply wrap it in plastic wrap.
Difficulties
Pelargonium royale loves careful cultivation, but various kinds of difficulties often arise. For example, in some cases, pelargonium leaves turn yellow. We will explain why this happens.
If the yellowing occurs precisely at the tips, and the rest of the leaf is elastic, then your royal pelargonium is probably not getting enough moisture. However, if the leaves simply rot and wither, then the reason for such yellowing is proportional, that is, overflow.
Also, if you moisten the soil too much, so-called water cushions may appear on the leaves. At very low air temperatures in winter, the leaves may turn red.
In such cases, pelargonium should be placed a little further from the window. And if there is insufficient lighting, royal pelargonium leaves may even fall off.
Royal pelargonium is susceptible to various kinds of diseases. For example, it is very dangerous when your royal plant the leg has turned black, in such cases it is simply impossible to save the pelargonium.
You just have to throw out the pelargonium along with the soil, and the pot itself should be treated with bleach. If there is an excess of moisture, mold will appear on the leaves. gray, is caused by a fungus.
Such leaves must be removed as quickly as possible and then careful and proper watering must be established.
Of the pests, royal pelargonium is often affected by whitefly and weevil. You can destroy such pests with special insecticides, and if there are just a lot of such pests, we advise you to simply collect them.
Most gardeners wonder why royal pelargonium does not bloom. The reasons may be different, for example, invisible rot or fungal infections. It is necessary to carefully examine the leaves and stems, as well as the root area.
Diseased areas of pelargonium are removed and treated with so-called fungicides, while watering the plant must be significantly reduced.
The rapid fall of flowers will be associated with an excess of nitrogen in the soil or very dry air in the room. Pelargonium will not want to bloom in a very spacious pot.
The problem may also appear due to the fact that there is little lighting; in such cases, the runners become very long, and the peduncles simply will not develop.
Temperatures in winter and spring can also interfere with the flowering period; overheating in the summer is also included. Pelargonium is also harmed by very frequent transplantation.
Types of royal pelargonium
The list of types of flowers such as pelargonium is very large; we will highlight only the most popular ones. These include the following:
- SallyMunro. Incredible beautiful plant with quite large flowers. The upper leaves are red, one might say burgundy color with a dark shade, almost black with a white edging around the edges. The lower ones are pink like the color of an apple tree. Such a plant will bloom several times in one season.
- German series Candy Flowers and its variety Candy Flowers Pink with Eye. The so-called large-flowered plant with a pink tint. There will be black spots on the leaves.
- Candy Flowers Bright Red still the same German line Candy Flowers. Flowers have Cherry color with black blurry spots on the leaves. The plants branch quite well, and thus are able to form a beautiful crown, and also have the advantage of long flowering.
- Pelargonium royal Mona Lisa. A variety with incredibly large beautiful flowers white shade. In the very center, next to the red stamens, in some cases you can find thin strokes Pink colour. The edge of such leaves is wavy.
- BlackPrince. A small plant in size, up to forty centimeters in height. The flowers are plum-colored and the petals have silver edges.
- GeorginaBlythe. The plant is very small, maximum thirty-five centimeters in height. The flowers at this height, oddly enough, are quite large, with a bright red color and an orange tint. The throat itself is white. The edge of the leaf is wavy, in the form of ruffles.
- Morwenna. The variety is quite compact. The flowers are large with a rich red color with a dark tint. The edge of the leaves resembles lace. This variety of pelargonium looks amazing in photographs.
- WhiteGlory. This variety bears huge flowers of seven centimeters in diameter, white in color. Plant height up to forty-five centimeters.
- LavenderGrandSlam. The plant has a medium height with purple flowers. The uppermost petals will have dark feathers with a dark purple tint.
- Carisbrooke. This variety has light flowers with a pink tint. On the top leaves you can see a thin marble pattern, it is made in the form of strokes and spots.
- RegaliaChocolate. The variety has large flowers with a dark red color and a chocolate tint. The leaves open very wide, and their edges are smooth.
- Mandarin variety. An incredible medium sized plant with delicate orange flowers. There are white buds in the center. The edges of the leaves are smooth with white edges.
It is better for you to choose a plant according to your taste, while taking into account the characteristics of absolutely each variety. The most correct and careful care will then delight you with flowering every year. The most important thing is to love pelargonium.
