Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 5 minutes
Installing a gypsum plasterboard partition in an apartment - optimal solution to divide the interior space. Thanks to its versatility this material is in high demand and popularity in the field of apartment renovation. The options for its use are very diverse, but most often plasterboard is used for the construction of partitions with their subsequent decorative finishing.
Makes such designs attractive appearance, ease of installation and the ability to do it yourself. And the opening ones design possibilities allow you to make the overall appearance of the apartment original, individual, stylish and extremely attractive.
A partition with plasterboard lining is given rigidity by a frame made of wooden or metal profiles. With clear step-by-step instructions, necessary materials and tools, its construction will also not take much effort and time.
Price
How much does the arrangement cost? plasterboard partition? If you decide to turn to specialists, erecting a partition without sound insulation with gypsum plasterboard sheathing in one layer will cost you, taking into account the cost of materials, 900–1100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in Moscow and 800–900 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg. The cost of a two-layer partition with noise and heat insulation will range from 1800 to 2100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in the capital and from 1200 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg.
If you plan to install the partition yourself, it will cost you 2 times less.
Where do we start?
Before you start installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands in the selected room, you need to carefully consider the future design and complete a basic drawing. It will not require specific knowledge and calculations from you, but it should the smallest details reflect all the necessary parameters.
- Let's start by displaying on paper in the chosen format the dimensions of the room chosen for the partition.
- We draw the location of the desired location of the future internal partition from plasterboard.
- Similarly, we carry out the front drawing of the partition, reflecting the supporting structures and lintels.
- Determining the planned loads on the partition using drywall during its operation will help you calculate the number of future racks. Additionally, keep in mind that the edges of the sheets of material are attached to different frame profiles. This will make it possible to distribute the load evenly over the entire plane of the frame, taking into account all the decorative elements used. Perhaps you decide to make a wall with shelves from plasterboard.
What materials and tools will be needed
To make a plasterboard partition, you will first need to construct a rigid frame. It is made from galvanized profile 75 mm wide using additional elements and wooden blocks. You will need the latter to increase the rigidity of the structure in certain areas. The partition is covered with standard sheets 12.5 mm thick, which are secured with self-tapping screws. Soundproofing material is laid between the gypsum boards.
In addition to the materials listed, you will need your own or rented tools:
- or a drill with an appropriate attachment.
- Laser or hydro level. The first option is preferable, as it will significantly simplify and speed up your work on creating a partition, and will allow you to create high-quality vertical and horizontal levels.
- Five or ten meter tape measure.
- Plumb.
The process of arranging a partition using plasterboard can be divided into several stages, including:
- installation of a doorway;
- covering the gypsum board partition;
- finishing.
We create the basis for the partition frame
Using drawing tools and a level on the ceiling and floor surface We make markings, noting where the partition will stand.
- We fix the guide profile to the floor with self-tapping screws.
- We insert vertical guides into the profile located on the floor in steps of half a meter, and attach them to the walls strictly vertically. At the joints of the profiles, we use self-tapping screws or a cutter to fasten them together.
- Using a plumb line, we mount the guide profile of the future partition to the ceiling.
As a result, by installing 4 profiles, we get a rectangular frame, which will serve as the basis for the future frame.
Design of a doorway in a partition
If the partition design provides for the presence swing door, care should be taken to ensure there is space in the frame for installation door block. The walls of the structure must have sufficient rigidity to withstand the expected load.
Strengthening the profile with dry, straight wooden blocks will help to give rigidity to the profile.
To install a doorway in a partition, we perform the following steps:
- We cut the rack profile to the required height and strengthen it with a wooden block inserted inside.
- We install the finished structure inside the upper (ceiling) and lower (floor) guide profile so that the width is the same at the top and bottom of the opening. We check the verticality of the racks with a level and secure them with self-tapping screws.
- To make a cross beam, we cut out a piece of the rack profile corresponding to the width of the future doorway. We also strengthen it with a wooden block.
- We install the transverse profile strictly horizontally to the required height.
The crossbar can be installed in two ways:
- Attach the cuttings of the guides corresponding to the width of the rack profile to both reinforced racks, insert the prepared crossbar into them and secure.
- Cut out the middle part of the rack profile that will serve as a crossbar, leaving “antennae” for which it will be attached to the racks.
Important! In both cases, it is recommended to use a cutter when connecting the profile. This will help ensure a tight fit of the gypsum board and avoid “humps” from the screws on the surface of the partition.
We fasten with nails wooden structures, inserted into the profile.
Installation of vertical racks
We mount the rack profile, taking into account standard width GKL (120 cm), there are 3 racks per sheet.
Since it is better to start installing entire sheets of drywall from the center, this makes it possible to most effectively “hide” the cut points, we install the racks accordingly - from the door to the walls. We check the verticality of each of the vertical profiles with a level.
Wiring and horizontal bars
The connection of vertical rack profiles with horizontal crossbars will add rigidity to the entire structure. The installation step is usually taken around 75 cm.
- Depending on the pitch of the vertical posts, we cut pieces of the rack profile of a suitable size.
- After assembling the frame, we lay the electrical wires (for this, the manufacturer provides special holes in the profiles).
Important! Electrical wiring must be placed in a corrugated pipe.
Hello, hello, our brave drywallers. Today you will find a cool tutorial on the topic of plasterboard partitions. To be specific, we will disassemble a single-layer partition on a single frame - C 111 according to the Knauf classification, because Such partitions are the most widespread. Let's deal with general principles their installation, how to form a doorway, an external corner and connecting several partitions to each other. As an example we will take corner partition with a doorway, these are usually used to enclose pantries and dressing rooms (essentially nurseries for moths) to store pickles/jams and all sorts of junk that is long overdue for disposal.
Please note that work with drywall can only be carried out after the plaster and screed in the apartment have completely dried.
First, let's get acquainted with the special profiles used to form the frame of the partitions. These profiles are called rack profiles. To be more precise, there are rack-mount PS (CW), and there are also special wide guides PN (UW) for them. Dimensions of guide profiles: 40×50, 75, 100 mm. In our example, profiles with a width of 100 mm will be used. The letters C and U in their bourgeois name indicate the shape of their section. As you can see in the picture, the guide has straight shelves, like the horns of the letter U, while the rack has curved shelves, like the C. By the way, they are called shelves side faces profiles, and the walls are rear. The second letter of the overseas name means that the profiles are rack-mount, i.e. wall from the German “Wand”.
Knauf rack and guide profiles
They are in a conjugate version
Once again we repeat that you can only use a profile with a metal thickness of 0.55-0.6 mm, for example, Knauf. They are good not only because of their rigidity, but also because their design allows them to be inserted into each other, thereby lengthening and strengthening them on the sides of the doorway. Profiles from other manufacturers may not have this option. The walls of the PN already have ready-made holes with a diameter of 8 mm for dowels.
Dimensions of rack profiles: 50×50, 75, 100 mm. For single-layer partitions, the 50th racks are rather weak, so we advise all of you to take the 75th or 100th. In rack walls Knauf profiles There are 3 pairs of closely spaced holes with a diameter of 33 mm for laying wires.
- Guide profiles KNAUF PN 100×40 mm
- Rack profiles KNAUF PS 100×50 mm
- Sealing tape Dichtungsband
- Separator tape
- “Dowel-nails” (another name for “Quick installation”) 6×40 mm
- Cord release device
- Laser level or bubble level
- Aluminum rule 2.5 m
- Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
- Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
- Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
- Roulette
- Hammer
- Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting HA)
- Hammer + drill
- Screwdriver and cutter
- Metal screws 3.5×25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
- Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2x13mm or shorter
- Metal scissors or grinder
- Mineral wool ISOVER, KNAUF Insulation, URSA, Rockwool, Schumanet, etc.
- Narrow and wide spatulas
On the next slide on the left there is a self-tapping screw with a press washer; it is used to fasten the profiles together. There is an option with and without a drill. They are designated LB and LN, respectively. On the slide is the LN option. In our case, they are needed only if there is no cutter. On the right is a self-tapping screw for drywall. More precisely, it is still made of metal, but it is used for attaching GK sheets to profiles. That’s why it’s most often called that – a self-tapping screw for drywall. Has a secret, so-called carob, head. Designated as TN. There is also a TB, with a drill at the end, but you can do just fine without it, 0.6 mm TN steel can be easily taken.
Self-tapping screws for installation of gypsum plasterboard structures
Instructions for installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands.
Step 1. Marking
For example, let our partition be a continuation of an existing wall. It is highly advisable to pre-align it with the beacons. We draw a line as a continuation of the wall on the ceiling, making a right angle using a simple square. This line is the internal boundary of our future partition, taking into account its final dimensions. But first we need to mount the frame, and the dimensions for it are different. It is not necessary to draw your own lines for the frame; you can make everything simpler. How? You'll find out very soon...
Marking lines on the ceiling
For now, we transfer the lines from the ceiling to the floor using a plumb line and a cord breaker, or a laser level.
Transferring markings to the floor
And now here in front of you is the very simplified method of marking PN.
Marking holes for fasteners
The bottom line is that pieces of drywall are sewn onto the guide profiles, cut to size, and then placed along the lines. With this approach, the risk of error will be minimal. We mean that later, when the sheets of civil code are sewn on, the rule will not “jump” at the wall/partition boundary. Pieces of plasterboard should be sewn flush with the walls of the PN. We align the profile with these pieces along the line and put marks with a pencil or marker where we will have holes for attaching the PN to the base.
From a different angle
Step 2. Attaching the PN
Then, according to our marks, holes are drilled in the base, and sealing tape is necessarily glued to the profiles. Its absence can completely ruin the entire sound insulation of the future partition. With it, the connection to the base will be very tight, which also affects the crack resistance of the structure. The fastening itself is carried out with dowel nails using an ordinary hammer. Fast and strong.
Fastening the profile to dowel-nails
Floor guides
Near the opening
On the ceiling
We do not unscrew the pieces of plasterboard from the profiles until we secure the PN at all the necessary points. There are often situations when the holes available in the PN are not enough. In these cases, they should be drilled independently, and this can be done in one step - through the profile into the base. The main thing is to carefully ensure that the boundaries of the gypsum board pieces clearly coincide with the marking lines. After securing the guides on the sides of the doorway, I advise you to check them with the rules and make sure that they lie strictly on the same line.
It is necessary to make at least three attachment points per profile. Even if it is 30 cm long. Usually the pitch of the fastenings is made around 50 cm. If the floor is uneven, the pitch is reduced. Sometimes you even have to divide the PN into several segments. We do the same thing on the ceiling. Then we unscrew the pieces of plasterboard, but do not throw them away, they will be useful to us later...
Step 3. Fastening wall substations
Attaching racks to walls
We cut the rack profiles to the height, insert them into the guides close to the walls and drill holes in the walls directly through them. Try to maintain a step of about 50 cm, no more. We hammer the dowel nails into these holes again. Don't forget to seal the profile walls with sealing tape! And control them with rules, they should not bend. By the way, the height of the PS should be less than the height of the ceilings in the room by at least 1 centimeter. They should not support the ceiling.
The length of the racks is 1 cm less than the height of the ceiling
As you can see, there is some distance between the rack profile and the floor.
Step 4: Installing the Frame Posts
The rack profiles of the frame are installed in increments of 60 cm. If tiles are laid on the partition, then in increments of 40 cm. The profiles of the doorway are extraordinary, and they do not affect the spacing of the remaining substations. The slide shows profiles placed at 60 and 80 cm from the wall. The near PS just forms the doorway.
Partition frame posts
To reliably form an opening, the side PSs are made double, that is, one PS is inserted into the other. Of course, this is done in such a way that the holes in the walls of these profiles match in height. Inserting the PS into each other is not an easy task; sometimes you have to walk on them with your feet so that they snap into place along the entire length. It turns out that on the slide you see 3 profiles, but in fact there are 4 of them.
PSs are placed in one direction - with the wall facing the corner from which the plasterboard covering will begin. Weight Limit door leaf, which can withstand a pair of PS-100 - 40 kg. Rack profiles are installed strictly vertically. Their length should be 1 cm less than the height of the ceilings. And the holes in all profiles must be at the same height. The profiles can be secured to the guides using a cutter or self-tapping screws with a press washer (temporarily). Before installing the gypsum board stripe, all self-tapping screws must be unscrewed.
Stands in place
Yes, PSs are installed in one direction, because fastening the sheets should begin from that part of the profile flange that is closer to its wall. If you do the opposite, the screws will jam the profile flange, and it may bend. On the slide you see an almost finished partition frame. Let's take a look at how an outer corner is formed correctly...
Forming an external corner
Frame from another angle
One of the rack profiles is turned with its wall outward, and the second one faces us with a shelf. Between them there is a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard; we laid it at the stage of attaching the PN. Thus, the Civil Code sheet with inside the partition will be wound, as it were, into its depths. At the end of the article, the outer corner of the fully finished partition will be shown in section.
Step 5. Jumper
Jumper from PN
All that remains for us is to make a lintel for the doorway. It is made from a guide profile by cutting its shelves obliquely and bending part of its length by 5-7 cm. The slide clearly shows how it will look. That is, you will need to cut a piece of PN 10-14 cm longer than the width of the opening. Cut and bend it symmetrically. On each side, the jumper is attached to the side posts using 2-3 LN self-tapping screws.
Installing a jumper in the frame
Now our frame is completely finished. Electrical cables can be passed through the frame. But you should not place them inside the profiles, as they can be pierced with TN screws when covering the gypsum board.
Step 6. Sheathing gypsum boards
Covering the frame with plasterboard
BEFORE jumpers
There are several rules here.
- We have already mentioned the first - you cannot join sheets on the side profiles of the opening.
- Secondly, cross-shaped joints of the “+” type are unacceptable, only of the “t” type.
- Third - the joints of sheets with the inner and with outside should be shifted horizontally by a profile step, and vertically by at least 40 cm. On the slide you can see the very pieces of drywall that we used for marking. Now they serve us as supports. After all, HA sheets cannot be placed directly on the floor; they must be raised above it by about 1 cm.
- And they shouldn’t reach the ceiling either, about half a centimeter. This is the fourth rule.
To secure the drywall to the double studs of the opening, you can use small metal drills. Otherwise, very often the screws simply jam inner part profile. First, drill holes through the gypsum board, then screw screws into them. Of course, the sheets can only be joined horizontally on profiles, which means that we must make PS jumpers at the joints. See what they look like on the next slide.
PS jumpers
These are sections of ordinary rack profiles. Once again, you need to start attaching them from the side of the shelf that is closer to the wall. When installing jumpers, it is advisable to have an assistant who will hold the sections of profiles while you twist the screws in them. Once all the jumpers have been placed, you can lay sound insulation slabs (mineral wool) between the profiles. Our favorite is ISOVER. When laying, we try not to leave unfilled areas. It should be cut with a margin of about 5 cm so that it rests against the profiles and thus stays in the frame. When working with mineral wool, be sure to use goggles, a respirator and gloves!
Sheathing process
Sheathing process 2
Finished cladding
The pitch of the screws is about 20-25 cm. On the jumpers, it is advisable to twist them more often, every 10-15 cm. Make sure that the heads of the screws are recessed into the sheet, but do not pierce the cardboard. If the cardboard is pierced, the screw should be twisted. What is also important is that the screws must enter at a strictly right angle. They should be away from the edge end edge sheet at a distance of at least 15 mm and the longitudinal edge - at least 10 mm. By the way, gypsum boards can only be mounted in a vertical position! If the room is planned suspended ceiling, under it in the partition it is advisable to mount mortgages from PS, into which we recommend additionally inserting timber of the appropriate size.
I also recommend screwing self-tapping screws into the jumpers on both sides of the partition, and not just on the joint side. It is advisable to choose the location of the sheets on the outer corner so that they lie on it with the factory edge. Then, when we install a protective corner on it, it will go deeper and the plane will not deteriorate. Of course, all progressive humanity has long been using a special corner-protective paper tape, Sheetrock, for example. But we know that in our country it’s hard to find one, so we have stone Age has been delayed and we are still using outdated metal corners. So, the partition is assembled.
And here are the promised pairings:
Right outside corner
Cross mate
T-joint
And here is a video from Knauf:
In contact with
It is quite difficult to divide a large room into comfortable zones without using expensive materials and without resorting to the help of specialists. But you can make partitions from plasterboard, which are easy to build, the material is inexpensive, and you can start handling it as a complete beginner. Partitions will help create distinct zones in a house or apartment; they can be created if you want to separate space, but at the same time spend little time and money on it.
What is this article about?
Why drywall
Drywall has many applications, but it is most often used to create partitions, so we will tell you about the process of constructing plasterboard partitions, which can be made of any shape and size, it all depends on your imagination. Also, if you need to create a partition in which you can install a door and create sound insulation and insulation, then plasterboard is also perfect for this. It is very easy to use, you just need to purchase profiles for constructing the frame, some tools, and you can start creating the partition.
Are being built interior partitions from plasterboard in the place where you need to divide the room into zones. Perhaps it will be a work office, a studio, game room for children or just a beautiful partition that can highlight the interior design and highlight the room original decor. If you are interested in plasterboard products and want to build some structures in your home, we recommend reading articles about these products on our website.
If you have started a renovation and are planning to completely decorate the room, then using drywall will be the best option in order to save your budget as much as possible without compromising the quality of the repair. By the way, you can arrange lighting and insulation in the partitions, if, of course, you need it. We just want to point out that drywall is very universal material, which can be used in the most various fields and areas of construction and repair robots.
It has no restrictions on its use, so almost anyone can start working with it to create the necessary structure with their own hands, the main thing is to follow the instructions below and, if everything is done correctly, you will get a high-quality and beautiful partition.
Surface marking
You need to decide on the shape of the partition, for this you can look interesting ideas on the Internet, if something interests you, you can sketch out a similar form on paper, add your decisions and preferences, and then start making markings. Also, think and decide whether you need to insulate the partition, because it allows it, but this is an additional expense. If insulation is needed, for example, in a private house, it will be very useful, since maintaining heat in it is much more difficult than in an apartment, then create a frame and, in general, the entire structure wider so that insulation can be placed in it.
If your work is related to sounds, perhaps you are a musician or a sound engineer, then it is better to use soundproof plasterboard to create a partition, which can effectively muffle most sounds that will no longer disturb both you and your neighbors. Also, it is possible to install spot lighting in the partition, which will create a unique atmosphere at night. In addition, such lighting will help you easily navigate around the apartment without turning on the main light, thanks to which you can save a little on electricity.
The selected form must be transferred to the wall and floor, that is, its projection must be made onto the surface on which it will be installed. The very first thing that needs to be applied is the contours of the product, which will indicate the installation location of the guide profile, which will significantly facilitate all further work. The profile that will be located inside must be marked on the wall in the same way. Be careful here, the location of the guide profile is marked both on the wall and on the floor and ceiling, since it will be directly attached to them. The rack profile is attached to the guide, and not to the surfaces, so its location can only be marked on the wall to make it easier during assembly.
If you are planning to create interior partitions from plasterboard using insulation, then remember that you will need to make much more frame to make room for the insulation itself. This means that when marking, it will be necessary to take into account the location of the insulation. Also, we note that it will be difficult to illuminate a thin partition, so light partitions serve more of a decorative role. Already in wider plasterboard partitions you can create niches, lighting, and insulation, so decide what you need more.
Components calculator
- Partition with 1 layer of gypsum board
- Partition with 2 layers of gypsum board
*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on the wall material, condition and shape of the room
Assembling the frame for the partition
To work you will need
- A guide profile (attached to the base), from which the base will be built, onto which the rest of the profile will be attached;
- Rack profile. The main part of the structure will consist of it; it creates bridges between the rails of the guide profile;
- Metal scissors, screwdriver, drill, cutter (optional);
- Profile for bends (it is advisable to have one, but you can use an ordinary profile, just specially cut). It can be easily bent, making it possible to create complex sections of large structures from it.
The guide profile slats must be installed where you made the markings. Use dowels and a drill to attach it to the base. If it is wooden, then you can use screws and a screwdriver. First install the slats on the ceiling, then, using a plumb line, secure them to the floor. The plumb line must be used to check the accuracy, because you may have made some errors in the distance at the marking stage, so always check the accuracy. Along with a plumb line, it is better to use laser level, which can draw perfectly straight lines in any direction.
The most important thing you need to remember when creating a frame. If you are creating a thin and light standard partition that will simply perform decorative functions, then make one row of the guide profile. If there is a partition, inside of which there will be insulation, a niche, lighting, and a layer of sound insulation, then it is necessary to create a second row of a guide profile.
If the installation of the partition takes place in such a way that the room is completely divided into two parts, that is, all 4 walls will be used (it happens that the partitions do not touch one wall or are small in height and do not reach the ceiling), then the guide profile will have to be on each of 4 surfaces. After installing the guide profile, you can create jumpers from the rack profile. The frame will begin to resemble a square honeycomb, plasterboard sheets will be installed on them and, if necessary, the insulation will be located in these honeycombs from the profile.
The profile slats can be fastened together with self-tapping screws, but you can purchase special device, which will make the work easier - a cutter. He compresses the profile, thereby holding it together. Our remark is that the rack profile should always be located perpendicular to the guide (except for additional reinforcement when large sizes), if this requirement is not met, then you are doing something wrong, so watch the direction of the profiles.
In the same way, a doorway is created from profiles. If niches are planned in the partition, then the frame will need to be strengthened, but if it is simple and light partition, then you can do without strengthening, the main thing is that the frame does not wobble. Connect the guide profile to each other with a rack, you can further strengthen the entire structure, but this must be done only if additional load is planned on the product (except for plasterboard sheets).
In those places where the project will bend, it is also necessary to install a profile. To do this, you can use either a special factory one or a regular one, the cuts on which are made independently. The only advantage of the factory profile is that it does not need to be cut, but can be immediately bent to give the desired shape. If you decide to make cuts on the profile yourself, then take metal scissors and cut only 2 sides without touching the 3rd.
Sheathing the partition frame with plasterboard sheets
Use drywall based on the type of room (fire-resistant or moisture-resistant, you can also use soundproofing). The most commonly used is standard (gray) drywall. First, the sheathing should be done with solid pieces of drywall, and only then, when it is impossible to use whole ones, you need to use smaller pieces. Try to create as few seams as possible on the product.
Fastening the drywall to the frame is done with the same screwdriver and self-tapping screws, but you don’t need to recess them too much into the sheet (the limit is 2 mm). But you also don’t need to screw them in so that the caps stick out a little. The best option can be found by simply running a spatula over the sheet; if it doesn’t catch anything, then everything is done correctly.
If redevelopment is not planned in the near future, then the surface will still need to be puttied. But that's only when you're done with the sheathing. Most difficult moment sheathing is the creation of bends. Or rather, it is not difficult, it just requires some effort. The easiest way is to walk over the sheet with a spiked roller, slightly wet it, wait for the plaster to soften, and secure the sheet to the frame.
This completes the creation of the plasterboard partition; all that remains is to apply plaster to the surface of the product to give the structure a flawless appearance. Then you can add various decorative elements to the partition, wallpaper or paint.
The desire of every person to make their home unique and comfortable found a way out in the zoning of the premises.
The most inexpensive and easiest way to do this is to install a gypsum plasterboard partition in the room as a tool for zoning the space. And to further reduce costs, you can install it yourself. Before the advent of drywall, partitions were built from foam blocks or bricks.
Advantages of gypsum plasterboard construction:
- It is flexible and allows you to create a design of almost any shape;
- large selection of profiles for the base;
- due to the ease of assembly, you can make a partition with your own hands;
- special moisture-resistant gypsum allows you to install drywall even in rooms with high humidity, and regulate this indicator using its porosity;
- light weight does not create a large load on the structure and helps reduce the cost of raw materials;
- safe for health because it is made from natural ingredients.
Before you start installing a partition in a room with your own hands, it is advisable to first think about what load will be on the wall and what decorations are expected there. This will help to provide in advance auxiliary jumpers and places for their attachment.
First you need to find out what you will need for the job. The main thing is a metal profile specially designed for use under the base. Two types are used:
- larger (W) - for installing partition frames;
- smaller (D) - for cladding ceilings and walls.
For each main standard size, additional types have been developed:
- guide (U);
- carrier (C).
To build a simple partition wall with your own hands, you will need UW and CW type crossbars. If a wide structure is planned, and even with communications, use UD and CD.
To build the wall, choose plasterboard measuring 12.5 mm. If zoning is planned in wet areas, may only be used moisture resistant drywall(Green colour).
Tools Tools needed:
- perforator;
- roulette;
- level 120 cm and 80 cm long;
- fishing line or thick thread (rope);
- construction knife;
- plumb line;
- drill or screwdriver;
- hacksaw for metal;
- sandpaper.
Types of raw materials for frame
Zoning of the room begins with the selection of a base for the wall being constructed.
It happens:
- metal;
- from wooden beams.
Everyone chooses the type that suits them. But it is better to use a metal base:
- it is durable;
- easier to install than wooden ones (especially if the work is done with your own hands);
Wooden sheathing is exposed to moisture, which causes it to change in size, and the edges of the gypsum board may diverge.
After this, they begin to mark the room.
Marking the room
Before applying markings, make sure that the ceiling and floor in the room are level, dry, and free of dirt.
Using a building level and a plumb line, draw a line where the base of the frame will be located, starting with the floor, then moving to the walls, and then the ceiling. Keep in mind that the thickness of the wall itself along with the finishing will be added to this line.
Assembling a metal frame
The zoning of the room begins with the installation of the main guide. It is cut to the required length, taking into account the possible doorway. If provided, make a bend with scissors up 15-20 centimeters and cut lateral surface.
Basis of design Before proceeding, a sealing tape is secured between the metal base and the surface. Installation of the skeleton of the structure begins with fastening it to the floor every 60 cm with a screwdriver.
The base is installed to the ceiling exactly above the bottom one. Next, a vertical bar is installed and screwed to the bottom and top. Wooden beams strengthen the supporting skeleton of the septum. They are inserted inside the base, secured with a self-tapping screw. The size of the bar must correspond to the size of the plank.
To mark the openings provided in the wall, a guide (UW) is used. Starting from the edge of the plank, the sides are cut at an angle of 45°. By bending them, you get a U-shaped structure, which is attached to the first vertical profile of the opening using a self-tapping screw. Thus, the skeleton is formed along the entire perimeter of the opening.
The installation of the partition sheathing is completed.
Types of partitions
Plasterboard partitions can be decorative or simple.
Curly plasterboard partitions made of gypsum plasterboard perform the function of zoning a room, but they are more decorative and do not have a doorway. Instead, they create arches of various beauty and all kinds of figured elements.
A simple design is also used for zoning a room, but this is not its only function. Such partitions hide pipes or electrical wiring.
Curly partition Sheathing
Unlike a wall, a plasterboard zoning partition is sheathed with sheets on both sides. The material varies in thickness (9-20 mm), and is selected based on the design requirements. For shaped elements, it is better to choose thinner raw materials, since drywall is flexible.
Everything here is easy to do with your own hands. Attach the layers of drywall to the grid using a self-tapping screw. Start from the edges, moving towards midline. The distance between the screws is 10-25 cm. Place plasterboard sheets 10-15 mm above the floor, to maintain the integrity of the structure.
After attaching the first sheet, measure the remaining distance to the ceiling and cut off a piece of drywall accordingly. The following ones are installed whole, without cutting. It is advisable to ensure that the edges are always in the center of the wall skeleton. This is how the first side of the wall is sheathed.
How to cut drywall correctly
The sheet is placed on a flat surface. Mark the cutting line with a pencil and construction knife cut upper layer, after which the gypsum board is moved from the support and carefully broken off. On the other hand, the drywall is cut (but not all the way through), placed on its edge and bent, then, moving it to the edge, it is broken off.
Communication wiring
If you need to stretch the electrical wiring through the wall with your own hands, do this before installing the gypsum board on the second side of the structure. First of all, the wires are placed in a special tube, which is made of non-flammable material, which reduces the occurrence of fire to zero. The pipe is laid 15-20 cm from the ceiling or floor, therefore, the outlets for the switches must be placed vertically. The pipe is laid without pulling too much, after which it is attached with clips.
Soundproofing The material does not require additional fasteners. Then the second side is faced. The edges of the sheets should rest on different profiles to distribute the correct load on the structure.
This video will show you this process in more detail:
Finishing
After installation is completed, finishing begins. To do it yourself, it is enough to prime the surface, use plaster to treat the seams, the places where the screws are attached and the structure as a whole. Processing is carried out at the joints fiberglass mesh. To do this, apply a layer of putty to the seam and immediately apply a mesh. It is important to press it in thoroughly with a spatula. Then another layer of putty is applied and smoothed out efficiently. Now everything should dry, after which the seam is sanded.
Sealing seams When the plaster is completely dry, start painting the wall or wallpapering it. You can decorate the building as much as your imagination and finances allow.
Creating zoning in a room is not difficult, and thanks to drywall, everything can be done with your own hands. Whether it’s creating a kitchen connected to the dining room, a separate children’s room, or separating the bathroom and toilet. After all, such a partition will cost much less and will delight residents with its functionality and aesthetics.
Read also: – types of products, rules for mounting on walls, examples of interiors with finishing, photos and videos
Photo gallery
Some beautiful ideas for implementation:
How to install a partition for zoning a room made of plasterboard 
Perfect solution for zoning 
Any room can be demarcated 
Several profile zones thanks to plasterboard 
Another worthy option to implement 
Good decision for an apartment or house 
The partition allows you to increase the space 
Several zones in one room 
Comfort comes first 
The children's room also requires zoning 
Everyone will appreciate the comfort in the apartment 
Partition instead of a massive cabinet 
Wardrobe or modern partition 
Non-standard solutions in the interior 
Sleek design 
Partition with shelves 
Openwork design 
Decorative partition for the room 
Two zones in one room 
The partition in the room serves several functions 
Decorative functions partitions 
Several ways of interior zoning 
Not just for differentiation 
Drywall is ideal for partitions In the construction industry, plasterboard is becoming more and more popular material every day. In most cases, it is used to create partitions between rooms and to sheathe walls and ceilings. However, drywall alone is not capable of creating load-bearing structure, this requires a special profile frame. How to make partitions from plasterboard with your own hands? Step-by-step instructions will tell you about all the details of this process.
One of the most important problems modern apartments is the problem of lack of personal space for each family member. A partition in a room made of plasterboard allows you to solve this issue. Many people are interested in how to make a plasterboard partition on their own, since the construction of a capital brick wall requires appropriate permits and significant material costs.
These could be plasterboard partitions for zoning space, for example, in a nursery - to separate zones for a boy and a girl. You can also create interior partitions from plasterboard to divide one spacious room into two small ones.
Plasterboard partitions are very popular due to their affordable cost and excellent aesthetic and practical qualities. Drywall partitions have numerous advantages over traditional brick or wood partitions.
One of the main advantages is its properties. Strength metal profile opens up the possibility of installing lightweight frames. You can create partitions from plasterboard to zone spaces of various sizes and shapes, without additionally loading the structure. Drywall is moisture resistant and not susceptible to oxidation and corrosion processes.
Another advantage of the material is its environmental Safety. Increased resistance to fire and moisture is achieved through special processing. Installation of plasterboard partitions is simple; a person who does not have special knowledge and skills can handle this task. Therefore, a DIY plasterboard partition is the best solution.
A partition in a room made of plasterboard, like interior partitions made of plasterboard, is distinguished by its simplicity and durability, and stone wool, foam plastic or cork materials give the structure thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics. The sheets are characterized by impeccable evenness, so the installation of plasterboard partitions opens up unlimited scope for creating a variety of decorative finishing elements.
DIY plasterboard partition - economical and practical option. In addition, the product is easy to disassemble and reassemble to change its location. Inside the frame, you can lay various communication connections - electrical wiring, pipelines, water supply or sewerage.
A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition requires minimal financial costs. Also, during the creation process there is no formation of debris or dust, and it is not very noisy. How to make a plasterboard partition yourself? Use the instructions, with detailed steps, and spend very little time and energy.
Types of plasterboard profiles
There are several main types plasterboard profiles, which are distinguished primarily by their functional purpose:
· Guides, with channel section. They are used as a frame base. They have a standard 40 mm thickness, and different widths - from 5 to 10 centimeters. Profile marking occurs in accordance with these parameters. They are marked PN or UW;
· Rack-mounted – outwardly very similar to the guides, but differ in slightly curved ends and a larger width, which is 50 millimeters. Marking occurs in the same way. However, it should be borne in mind that the actual width of the backrest is 1-1.5 millimeters less than indicated. Marking - PS or CW;
· Ceiling and guides - with their help they are made, which are subsequently covered with plasterboard. Marking - PPP or CD, UD;
· Corner ones allow you to create ideal external corners. They are designed to protect the soft corners that form plasterboard sheets from damage of various types. Marking – PU;
· Arched – allow you to create structures with curved lines. The integrity of the back and floors, divided into several sections, makes it easier to bend and create curves;
· Beacon bars allow you to align walls to the required level and work as a stop that sets the level for the rule. Marking – PM.
Finished profiles can have a length from 275 to 600 centimeters. The profiles also differ in the thickness of the metal from which they are made. Profiles with different thicknesses are suitable for different purposes:
· profiles with a thickness of 0.44 mm allow you to create extremely lightweight structures, such as ceiling battens;
· profiles with a thickness of 0.45 mm have an average load-bearing capacity, so they are often used to create load-bearing partitions;
profiles with a thickness of 0.55 mm have good bearing capacity. Therefore, they are used to create interior partitions loaded with various elements, like shelves.
Different types of drywall also differ in properties and purpose:
· GKL – regular finishing;
· GKLV – finishing of premises in conditions high humidity, is moisture resistant;
· GKLO - with its help, attics, electrical panels, ventilation are finished;
· GKLVO – is characterized by both fire resistance and moisture resistance.
The standard thickness of drywall is considered to be from 6 to 15 millimeters. Sheets with a small thickness allow you to form curved surfaces and create arches. Walls can only be covered with sheets with a thickness of 12.5 millimeters or more.
DIY plasterboard partitions step by step instructions
Guide profiles
To create a plasterboard partition, you need a set of tools that are suitable for almost every home. First you need to install the guide profile. It is necessary to mark a line on the floor along which the structure will be built. The line is drawn using a special level or the bar itself.
When installing a partition, keep in mind that in the drawings it may not be thick, but in fact its thickness is made up of a profile and two plasterboard sheets. The guide profile is fixed along the line marked on the floor. For wooden floors, you need to use self-tapping screws; for cement-concrete floors, dowels fixed in advance drilled holes. The fastening interval should be about 30 centimeters.
The guide profile is the lower fastening point. Then you should install another one on the wall, in a strictly vertical position. Attaching the profile to the walls occurs in a similar way. If the base of the wall is gas silicate blocks, requires the use of dowel nails. The joints are connected by short self-tapping screws. The ceiling guide profile is fixed in the same way, thus closing the partition contour.
Vertical rack profiles
If a solid partition is expected, without doors, vertical rack profiles are installed starting from the wall. The installation location should be calculated based on the width of the plasterboard sheets. Each sheet requires the installation of 3 vertical posts - in the middle, on the right and left sides.
The rack profile should have a height of approximately half a centimeter to a centimeter less than the height of the ceiling, so that the structure will settle if the building itself settles. Screwing in the screws starts from the back and ends at the edge so that the shelf does not bend.
Horizontal cross profiles
Next, short pieces are cut from the profile, installed between adjacent vertical profiles. This makes the structure more rigid. You should select a length that allows for reliable fastening to the posts using short self-tapping screws.
The placement step depends on the width of the plasterboard sheets, but it should not be less than 40 centimeters. The edges of the sheets should be located in the center of the profiles. It is also necessary to place them in places where shelves or hooks will be located. The load is secured with wood blocks inserted into the profiles. The bars should fit firmly into the profile, but not distort its shape. Thus, the creation of the plasterboard partition frame is completed.
Electrical wiring
After completing the installation of the frame, they are placed inside electric wires. To do this, you should first make holes in the profiles through which they are subsequently passed. Wire placement requires non-combustible insulation conditions. It is better to check the serviceability of the wiring before finishing.
Drywall
After the installation of the partition is completed, the drywall should be secured. Solid sheets are placed in accordance with the width and height of the structure. For fastening in other places, they require cutting. Suitable for cutting plasterboard sheets special knife, or ordinary stationery knife large size.
Before cutting, the required shape is outlined, and then you need to draw a knife along the cutting line several times, gradually deepening it. Sheets with straight lines can be cut slightly faster. One side is marked, cut, turned over and folded. In this case, a clearly outlined line is broken, and the sheet is cut on its other side.
To make it more convenient to carry out finishing work, a chamfer is formed using a plane or a regular knife. Plasterboard sheets should be installed with a small gap, a width of 3 to 5 mm. The sheet is attached between the guides and vertical posts in 15-20 centimeter increments. In this case, the screws should go into the drywall approximately a millimeter deep. Additionally, you can focus on the location of the vertical rack profiles.
Partition with doorway
If it is intended to create a doorway, the installation of vertical rack profiles occurs in the direction from it. A suitable gap should be created in advance in the guide profiles. The posts should be the same width at the top and bottom.
When calculating the width, do not forget to take into account the size of not only the doors themselves, but also the frame. You can increase the strength of the opening by using wooden blocks that are inserted inside. Rack profiles with bars are attached to the guides with self-tapping screws.
In the upper part, the profile that limits the opening also needs to be strengthened with a block. Transverse profiles are also attached with self-tapping screws. The bars, which are located in the rack and transverse profiles, are connected with self-tapping screws or nails. Thus, the structure gains strength.
Soundproofing
Can add soundproofing properties to a partition mineral wool or other materials with insulating properties. It should be cut and laid between the profiles. The insulation material must have a width equal to the guide profiles. When installing drywall, make sure to install entire sheets from the center to the edge. Trims located near the walls will be less noticeable.
After installing the sound insulation, plasterboard sheets are fixed on the other side, thus closing the partition. It will help close the cracks polyurethane foam, which will also improve sound insulation properties. Before the beginning finishing works, it is necessary to cover the surface with putty, which will make it even and smooth, hiding the joints between the sheets and the screws.
This completes the work on creating a plasterboard partition. To make the process more clear, we recommend that you watch the video below.
