Preparing a bed for carrots. Preparing a bed for carrots in the spring. Additives for various soil types

Carrot bed For spring sowing, it is recommended to prepare it in the fall. Comfortable bed size for growing carrots:

— width 90 cm,
— height 15-20 cm.

In autumn, the soil in the garden bed for carrots should be dug up, leveled and fertilized.

Fertilizing the soil in autumn

Bed for planting carrots in spring, as mentioned earlier, are formed in the fall. Application of mineral and organic fertilizers under carrots(immediately before boarding) not in the best possible way affects root crops.

It is strictly forbidden to apply fresh manure under carrots in the spring. When adding manure to the soil, it is recommended to plant carrots in this place only after 2 years. It is recommended to grow carrots as a second crop after applying manure (after growing cucumbers, onions, early cabbage, and early potatoes in this place).

Earth in the fall it is necessary to dig (depth - at least 20, optimally - 30-40 cm), select pebbles, and even better - sift. Carrots love loose soil, and if during active growth they encounter obstacles, they become crooked and split in two.

Carrots will definitely like it bed from a mixture of peat (sawdust or pine needles) and sand, which also needs to be sifted. For one bucket of peat, take half a bucket of sifted sand and a 1-liter jar of ash. In such a bed, a vegetable can grow for 3-4 years. The advantages of soil prepared specifically for carrots are that there are no weed seeds in it and it is perfectly saturated with oxygen, which is so necessary for the formation of high-quality root crops. To replenish such soil, it is necessary to add chlorine-free potassium in the spring during pre-sowing soil preparation in the amount of 1/2 cup per 1 linear meter.

In the reference book “Vegetable garden. Practical advice»recommend:

fertilize nutrient-poor soil in the fall before digging with 3-4 kg of humus per 1 sq.m;
harrow 2-3 cups per 1m2 wood ash.

Acidic soil is enriched with dolomite flour in the fall at the rate of 20-30 g per 1 m2. In the spring, as soon as the soil has dried, it is disinfected with a solution copper sulfate based on 1 tbsp. spoon into a 10-liter bucket of water and dig it up. It is convenient to spray the product from a watering can with a strainer attachment.

How to fertilize carrots in the spring when planting in the garden?

In the spring, preparing the soil for planting seeds It is recommended to start 10-12 days before sowing. If the soil is very depleted, it is permissible to add humus (but it is better to do this in the fall) and dig deep.

Fertilize carrots before planting in open ground(in spring, a week before planting) in small doses:

nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 10-20 g per 1 m2;
phosphorus and potassium fertilizers at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m2;
lime at the rate of 300-500 g per 1 m2 (for acidic soils);
complex mineral fertilizers - nitroammofoska or nitrophoska at the rate of 2 tbsp. spoons per 1 m2.

After making mineral fertilizers In the spring, the soil is dug up so that the substances are at a depth of 15 cm (this way they will not burn the roots of the plant). After digging, the soil in the carrot bed is leveled with a rake and beds are formed.

For planting seeds, grooves are formed with a depth of 1.5 - 3 cm. The distance between the grooves is 20 cm. The distance between seeds is 2-4 cm.

Watch the depth of the grooves: if they are too deep, the seeds will not germinate; too small - the seeds will be scattered by the wind.

During growth, carrots are fertilized separately.

Sources: country literature, reference books for gardeners and gardeners, Internet

Carrot along with potatoes and onions, it is one of the main vegetables, so all gardeners find a place for it in their plots. Proper cultivation carrots, is the key to a rich harvest.

Even in small areas you can get a high-quality and productive harvest. And if you combine the implementation of the basic rules of agricultural technology with the advice of experienced gardeners, you can achieve great results in growing carrots, while also saving your labor costs and precious time that can be spent on relaxation.

Harvest carrots on high warm beds

Method of growing carrots, which will allow you to get a carrot harvest in a small area: 2.4 m2, which will last until the next season.

The determining factor in this method is the presence of warm high beds, which guarantees optimal conditions for carrot growth. Namely, it is a deep, loose, fertile layer.

Without such a bed, to achieve such a layer on our su clay soils ah, almost impossible.

The second main condition for obtaining a good harvest is the choice of seeds and their correct landing. It is better to purchase seeds from trusted manufacturers and better coated (that is, covered with a nutritious coating). Such seeds allow us to follow the exact pattern, maintaining the required distances, which in turn makes it possible to perform the most unpleasant technological technique - thinning out the sprouted carrots.

Any thinning means injury to neighboring plants and attracts pests to the garden bed, especially carrot flies. And weeding itself is a rather tedious and time-consuming task.

So, we’ve decided on the seeds, let’s start sowing. It is done as follows: pour a 5 cm layer of old sifted sawdust onto a prepared, leveled bed, make grooves in them along the bed with a depth to the ground and a distance of 20 cm from each other, and 10 cm from the edge of the bed.

Next, we spill these grooves with warm water; for disinfection, you can add potassium permanganate to the water until it turns pink. Then, without being lazy and painstakingly laying them out into grooves, one seed at a time every 3-4 cm. After laying them out, sprinkle them with sawdust and pour warm water over them again, but from a watering can with a sprayer.

All the main labor-intensive work has been completed, we are waiting for the shoots, which usually appear in 5-10 days depending on the temperature. During this time, sawdust does not allow weeds to germinate, so carrot shoots are easily visible. But 5-6 days after germination, you will still have to weed the bed, although this is loudly said, or rather, it would be more accurate to say, to remove the weeds that rarely break through.

During the summer, it is enough to weed the bed twice in the same way, until the tops of the carrots themselves close. Sawdust also made it possible to reduce the volume of irrigation per unit area and prevent rain from clogging or eroding the soil. As you understand, loosening with this approach is completely eliminated.

Of course, there can be no talk about any fertilizers, for example, such as nitrophoska and even Agricola Vegeta and Effecton-O, related to organic fertilizers. After all, the bed itself presupposes the presence required quantities nutrients for the entire period of carrot growth.

High yield of carrots without much hassle

I want to give carrot advice. After all, it’s not always possible to grow good carrots. This is a troublesome task, especially weeding, thinning, and loosening.

All of us, residents of the middle zone, sow carrots in the first half of May. Here's what I recommend: two weeks before sowing, wrap the carrot seeds in an old rag, soak them and dig them onto the bayonet of a shovel somewhere in the garden bed. Trample the ground and place a peg with a label. As the soil ripens, the seeds will become heavier, swell, and even sag a little.

And when the time comes for sowing, we do this: carefully, slowly, dig up the bed, scatter it over the entire surface ( stove ash, approximately 1 cup per 1 m 2 ) . We harrow carefully with a rake to break up clods of earth. Then we make markings along the bed, pulling the string. We make the distance between the rows 40 cm. We tread a groove along the lace (we go foot to foot) to create a dense bottom the width of the foot. We thoroughly moisten the soil in the groove by watering from a watering can.

When the water is absorbed, we begin to lay out the seeds by removing them from the hole. Once swollen, they will be clearly visible on a smooth bottom. The distance between the seeds is 5-6 cm, so as not to thin out later. Then we rake the soil from the sides of the groove and fill in the seeds, lightly pat down the row, do not water, so as not to form a crust that interferes with air access to the crops. Shoots will appear in a week. Now we need to water the plants and loosen the rows to destroy the weeds. The carrots will grow great!

Sow your favorite varieties using labor-saving technology. Excellent variety “Nanskaya” or its hybrids. The result is always good. Use the same “carrot method” for sowing parsley, beets, chives, and flower annuals. The main thing is not to forget to dig in the seeds in time, about 12-14 days before sowing, then you won’t have to bother with the seedlings and there will be less work to do in the spring.

Good neighbors. Carrots and onions in one bed

Experienced summer residents claim that onions and carrots get along well in the same bed, since their roots are located at different levels - carrots are deep, and onions are superficial, so they do not interfere with each other. But you need to ensure that the greenery of the carrots does not shade the onions. There are no problems with growing, and the harvest and taste of vegetables will certainly please you. If you want to test this claim, select a garden bed and try growing onions and carrots in it.

For planting, the bed must be made 1.2 meters wide and in the spring it should be filled with fertilizer. For these purposes you can use (chicken droppings(3-4 buckets) or compost (7-8 buckets)) . It is good to add 250 g of double superphosphate to the organic matter.

You need to plant onions and carrots at the same time. Planting material need to be prepared first.

To do this, stick the carrot seeds with starch paste onto thin paper cut into the width of the bed (1.2 m). Or use ready-made seed strips purchased from specialty stores. You can spread the pelleted seeds by hand.

The distance between the seeds should be approximately 2-3 cm.

Before planting, onions need to be soaked for 2-3 hours in a humate solution.

Do not add anything to the beds where carrots will grow. And in the places where onions are planted, sprinkle the furrow with ash mixed with mineral fertilizer in the proportion of 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per liter jar of ash.

When planting, a strip of paper with seeds should be carefully laid across the width of the bed to a depth of about 2 cm and sprinkled with soil. Plant onions in the next row. It is important not to press the bulbs into the soil, but to carefully place them on it. The distance between the rows should be from 10 to 15 cm. Cover the bed with plantings for 15 days with covering material.

The onion will grow first and should be fed. Onion feeding should be done when its feathers grow to 8-10 cm. To do this, prepare a solution: (For 10 liters of water, take 1 tbsp. spoon of ash, urea, double superphosphate extract and kerosene) . It is good to repeat fertilizing after 10-12 days.

Following the onions, carrots begin to grow intensively: the root crops increase in size, acquiring a good taste. In mid-August, the onion harvest can be harvested. And then expect a rich harvest of delicious carrots.

We are preparing a bed for carrots. Fertilizer application

When growing carrots to get a rich harvest great importance has bed preparation.

When growing carrots, you must remember that this crop is demanding on the composition of the soil. Good carrot yields can be obtained on light and medium loamy soils, or on cultivated peat lands with pH = 7.0 (neutral), free from weeds, and well drained.

Fresh manure is not added to the soil for carrots..

Carrots grow well on lands where predecessors grew last year - cabbage, green and legume crops, potatoes, and tomatoes.

It is better to dig up the carrot bed in the fall to the depth of a bayonet shovel and leave it until spring. There is no need to break the lumps. This way it will freeze better and in the spring there will be no such lumps; the frozen moisture will break them into small particles.

If you have acidic soil, then before digging add it to each square meter. m beds, one glass of dolomite flour, fluff lime or chalk.

Bed for planting carrots Prepare 2-3 days before sowing.

Depending on the composition and fertility of the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring.

For every sq. m beds at peat soils add (5 kg of coarse river sand, 3-5 kg of manure humus, one bucket of turf soil (clayey or loamy)).

Mineral fertilizers are also added: (one teaspoon of sodium nitrate or urea (carbamide), one tablespoon of powdered superphosphate and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate).

Then, after adding all these components, the bed is dug into

depth 20-25 cm (because the main varieties of carrots have long roots). The bed is well developed, the surface is leveled and compacted. After which the ridge is watered with the following solution: (diluted in a bucket warm water one teaspoon (at the level) of copper sulfate and one glass of mushy mullein) , stir well and water at the rate of two liters per square meter. m beds. Then, to avoid moisture evaporation and to preserve heat, the bed is covered with plastic film.

On clay and podzolic soils (for every sq. m of bed, add 1-2 buckets of peat and coarse sand, one bucket of humus, half a bucket (3-5 kg) of fine (treated) sawdust (better not fresh, rotten)).

Mineral fertilizers for carrots: (add crushed superphosphate - one tablespoon and nitrophoska - two tablespoons) . In the spring, you need to liming with chalk or dolomite flour, if you didn’t do it in the fall (which is preferable): two to three tablespoons for each square meter. m.

For light loamy soils (they consist of clay and sand) - produce fertilizer in the same way as clay soils, but do not add sand.

On sandy soils add two buckets of peat, turf soil and one bucket of processed sawdust and humus. Mineral fertilizers are applied the same as for clay soils. If granular fertilizers are used, there is no need to grind them into powder.

On chernozem fertile soils add half a bucket of small old or fresh processed sawdust and a bucket of sand.

Mineral fertilizers: (add two tablespoons of superphosphate, crushed into powder To).

Humus manure can be replaced with compost, but it should not contain weed seeds.

3-4 days before adding sawdust to the soil, they need to be processed. This is done in this way: 5 buckets of fresh sawdust are poured onto a piece of film laid out on the ground. Bred in a bucket hot water five tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or urea) are poured into a watering can and the sawdust is slowly poured with this solution. The higher the temperature of the solution (40-50°C), the faster the sawdust will be ready for use in the garden bed.

Fresh sawdust, not processed in this way, can be added to the beds only in the fall. If you add fresh sawdust in the spring, the leaves of the carrot seedlings will have a pale color due to a lack of nitrogen (sawdust takes nitrogen from the soil when rotting).

When planting carrots on newly developed lands (virgin lands), it is necessary to carefully select all rhizomes when digging, especially wheatgrass, as well as wireworm and May beetle larvae.

Carrots, like all vegetables, are a light-loving crop, so in the shade the root crops grow very short (up to 3-5 cm), and the yield is reduced by two to three times. Excessive moisture in the soil contributes to diseases of carrot roots, so in places where groundwater are close, the beds should be made at least 30-35 cm high.

On poorly cultivated and dense soils, root crops grow in an ugly shape, branch out, and the quality of root crops and yield decrease.

Carrot planting dates

The timing of sowing is decisive for the carrot harvest.

Since carrot seeds germinate slowly, they require good soil moisture and should be sown as early as possible, while there is sufficient spring moisture in the ground. If you are late with sowing, the seeds will fall into dry soil and as a result, rare, weak seedlings will sprout, and often the seeds will not germinate at all and you will have to re-sow the bed.

The most optimal times for sowing carrot seeds are: in the central and middle zone: early varieties - from April 20 to 25; mid-season - from April 25 to May 5.

In the southern regions, sowing is carried out in two periods: to obtain products in summer time, spring - March 10-20, and for obtaining seeds (uterine roots) and winter consumption, summer sowing - June 10-15.

You can sow carrots before winter, on frozen soil, in November - December. Sowing is done with dry seeds so that they cannot germinate until spring, otherwise the seedlings will freeze. Such carrots, sown in winter, grow much earlier, but they are used mainly in summer period, because not suitable for storage.

So having prepared soil for growing carrots, You will get a rich harvest.

Great( 8 ) Badly( 0 )

The productivity efficiency of carrots exceeds 1,000,000%; only red and fodder beet, tobacco and mustard. From 1 acre you can collect more than 50 kg of root crops by sowing a bed with seeds weighing 20 g. But in order to achieve such results, you need to be very careful in preparing the soil and bed in the spring, taking into account compatibility with the plants that grew in this place last year.

You can make beds with your own hands, you just need to know right size and width and prepare it in the fall. Any soil has its own characteristics and requires preparation so that carrots can germinate without problems.

There are several general requirements for all types and varieties of carrots, regarding what kind of soil it needs.

She must not contain solid particles, not rotten roots.
In it there should be no increased acidity.
You need to add sand to clay soil and chernozem - 1 kg of sand per 1 m2.
In sandy soil, carrots will feel at ease if peat, cattle manure and potato peelings. The fertilizer takes 10-12 months to prepare. When dry, water it with water. Stir after 2-3 weeks. For 1 m2 – 5 kg.

Sand is an indicator of humidity levels.

In addition to the fact that it loosens dense soil and allows air to penetrate deep into dense soil, sand absorbs excess moisture.

In pure chernozem, the root crop will have an excess of fatty acids - a short shelf life. The viscosity of the soil contributes to improper development of the upper part of the root crop. Clay, without adding sand, dries quickly - the plant is sluggish and small.

Will never grow under the following conditions:

After the sunflowers.
Tobacco.
In the shadow.
On dry soil, regardless of its composition.
On a site that slopes sharply downhill.
If wheatgrass is present.

Do I need to prepare the soil in spring?

No matter how good the soil is, it is impossible to grow a high yield without proper preparation. Before digging the bed, you need check it for moisture permeability.

Pour onto an undug area 50 x 70 cm 8 liters of water. If moisture enters after an hour and bluish spots appear, the soil is dry and contains a lot of salts. Not suitable for carrots.

If the soil is spotless and you can make a ball out of it, you can safely begin preparation.

How to properly prepare the ground for planting

The difficulty in growing carrots is not mineral supplements, A solid ingredients available in the soil, its density.

Land for cultivation should be perfectly loosened.
Before loosening, the bed dig twice. The depth of the first digging is at least 30 cm. The second is 15-20 cm.
Maintain an interval between the first and second digging of 10-12 days. This way you can find out the water permeability of the soil.
If the second digging reveals a lot of deep-rooted weeds and pebbles, the soil is unsuitable for carrots.
If the result is positive, after the second digging, dry soil sprinkle with crushed peat– thickness 1-2 cm, and water generously.
In the spring, you need to dig and loosen it again.

Fertilizer application

The soil for carrots can be fertilized organic fertilizers in autumn or mineral– 1 time 2-3 weeks before planting and 2, and for late varieties 3 times during the growing season.

The dilution proportions of mineral fertilizers are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.

If carrots are grown in small quantities at a dacha or personal plot- It is better to give preference to organic.

Features of organic feeding:

Root vegetables last longer at the right temperature.
Everything is saved healing properties both root crops and tops.
It doesn't taste bitter.
The middle is homogeneous.
When using mineral fertilizers, it is impossible to get your seeds in a year.
If you apply mineral fertilizers, complete degeneration of the variety occurs after 3-4 years - seeds different sizes, fruits with an overgrown root system predominate.

With regular use of mineral fertilizers, you need to mix your seeds with purchased ones. Round, short carrots will not be juicy in dry soils fertilized with chemicals.

Desirable predecessors

If in the garden last year I grew bad potatoes- the land is depleted. You need to give it a year to rest. Potatoes are the only indicator of the quality of soil for carrots.

After cucumbers Carrots will grow well if the soil is prepared and 1.5 kg of cattle manure and 5 kg of crushed corn leaves are given per 1 m2.

After red beets– 0.5 kg of cattle manure and 5 kg of peat per 1 m2. Fertilize chernozem with potato peels and sand 1 to 1. 1 kg per 1 m2.

Winter varieties on rich black soil will be perfectly preserved if they are sown after fodder beet. But in in this case, a high yield will not be achieved.

An amateur gardener, when first cultivating a plot of land, is recommended to plant cabbage. If it grows inconspicuous and small, the site requires both minerals and organic matter.

Tomatoes– indicator of humidity level. If the fruits turn black, then the bed is suitable for parsley and beets. It is contraindicated to sow carrots.

If legumes grew short and stunted - the soil is defatted and requires organic matter. Organic matter is added to well-dug soil for the winter.

If the beans have grown tall, you can safely plant carrots in this place

Preparing the bed for planting

After previous crops, the bed needs get rid of weeds. Let it rest for 2 weeks. During this time, you can see which weeds will prevail next year. If weeds with deep roots and fibrous root systems predominate, then a carrot harvest is not expected.

Further mark a 3 by 5 m area. After the first digging, carefully break up large clods. If, when broken, the earth breaks into large sharp lumps, you need to fertilize it with humus from plants. If there is none, 0.5 kg of bean leaves, cow manure and peat, per 1 m2. Drain thoroughly with water. Dig in 2 weeks.

If the plot is used for the first time as a vegetable garden, it dig 4-5 times in autumn and 2-3 times in spring. This is necessary in order to carefully select the weed roots. If over the course of a week the ground is homogeneous dark color– there is no need to fertilize it.

When preparing a bed for carrots, you need to loosen. Clumps - break. Small pebbles - remove. If the bed is being dug up on chernozem soil of a uniform dark color, there is no need to fertilize.

Organic fertilizers must be applied no later than the winter before planting. Mineral - the first time 2-3 weeks before planting. Further, depending on the variety, 2-3 times during growth.

Even experienced gardeners have incidents with carrots - sometimes they don’t sprout, sometimes they produce poorly, or even the root vegetables turn out ugly and tasteless. Growing carrots is a delicate matter and, despite its apparent simplicity, it is replete with many nuances. With this vegetable, a negative result can be evidence of both lack of care and excessive zeal. We propose to consider what mistakes are most often made when cultivating crops and how to avoid them.

Carrots are a delicate matter!

Selecting a location and preparing the bed

Climatic conditions Middle zone Russia is ideal for growing carrots in open ground– it turns out dense, juicy, sweet. For crops choose open area garden so that it gets a lot of sun - in the shade the plants stretch out, grow with large tops and small root crops. The soil needs to be loose, preferably sandy loam, with a neutral reaction of the soil solution. Considering that ideal conditions are rare in nature, harvest bed you can do it yourself. Clay soils are loosened and enriched by adding humus, compost, peat, leaf soil, and river sand.

When deciding where to grow carrots, advanced gardeners create special organic beds with an airy structure that are very light. The soil is dug up before winter, the acidity is reduced by liming, mineral fertilizers are applied: nitrogen (20–30 g/m²), superphosphate (40–50 g/m²), potassium salt (40–50 g/m²). You need to be careful with organic matter, because root vegetables do not tolerate fresh manure. They are suitable for areas fertilized a year earlier - after cucumber, zucchini, potatoes, cabbage. Typical mistakes:

Digging is carried out in the spring. This disrupts the structure and reduces the natural moisture of the soil. Seeds, being at a depth of 2–3 cm, do not receive capillary moisture and significantly lose germination.
They add a lot of nitrogen. Carrots overfed with nitrogen contain a lot of nitrates, taste worse, and are poorly stored.

It is important! No matter how hard you try, but acidic soil(pH below 6–6.5) you will not be able to grow sweet carrots. An acidic environment interferes with the absorption of valuable microelements, including phosphorus and potassium. Taking into account the characteristics of the crop, liming of the soil can be carried out only in winter - before autumn digging.

Seed requirements

Effective carrot cultivation technologies are unthinkable without high-quality seed material. When choosing a variety or hybrid, pay attention to the ripening time, soil requirements, humidity, and relate this to the conditions of your region. Dried seeds do not need additional training, but they have a peculiarity - watering the soil before and after sowing. The multilayer shell needs to be able to get wet; without this, the seed will not receive the necessary nutrition and water, and therefore will not germinate. Encrusted and primed seeds are sown dry. But ordinary ones need to be prepared for sowing - pre-soaked, disinfected, stimulated with growth regulators. There are many procedures, they main function– accelerate the emergence of seedlings.

Typical mistakes:

Sowing with dry untreated seeds. They take a long time to germinate, and if they are still sown in cold soil, they can sap.
Dried seeds do not germinate. There is not enough moisture to dissolve the granule.

Subtleties of sowing

The secrets of growing carrots at this stage are in correct definition sowing timing and technology. To obtain early harvest for summer consumption, carrots are sown as soon as the soil is shaken and warms up to 6–8⁰ C. With winter sowing, the moment of ripening can be accelerated by 1–2 weeks. In order to obtain high-quality and shelf-stable root crops for planting for the winter, the sowing dates are shifted by approximately 1–1.5 months - to the first ten days of June.

Sow carrots shallowly (1.5–2 cm), placing them in rows, 12–15 cm ribbons or wide ridges. The bottom of the seed furrow must be compacted, moistened, and only after that the seeds are laid out. They are covered with dry substrate on top - soil from the garden, humus, mulch from rotted organic matter. Sowing methods for growing carrots are recommended to be sparse or precise. They require additional costs and patience, but they will pay off handsomely during harvest and save you time on thinning.

Typical mistakes:

The furrows were cut, but not compacted or watered. The seeds lay unevenly, rolled under clods of earth, did not receive the necessary moisture - the shoots were uneven and unfriendly. The tip of the root has died due to drying out - a forked root crop will grow.

From sowing to germination

The main thing in growing carrots from sowing to germination is to conserve moisture. Beginning gardeners, seeing that seedlings do not appear, resort to watering. A crust forms on top of the soil, then it becomes covered with cracks through which water intensively evaporates. How to deal with this? Firstly, if you follow the “dry on wet” principle when sowing, then upper layer will reliably retain moisture. Secondly, when a crust appears, surface loosening is carried out with a rake. To make rows of carrots appear earlier, add radishes, lettuce, and spinach to the seeds - they will act as beacons.

Typical mistakes:

Watering until germination. The achene does not have enough strength to break through the formed crust - the shoots are weak, uneven, and delayed.

Plant care

The technology for growing carrots at the care stage includes such mandatory measures as weeding, loosening, thinning, watering and fertilizing. The thinning procedure is excluded if sparse or precision sowing was used. In this case, if there is a need, the density is adjusted while weeding.

Thinning

The first thinning is carried out with the formation of 2–3 leaves. Weaker shoots are removed, leaving an interval of 2 cm between the remaining ones. The carrots are broken through for the second time when the root crop has grown in diameter to 1.2–1.5 cm, leaving plants after 4–6 cm. How to grow large and even carrots depends , including from the secrets of thinning.

You need to pull out the excess carefully, without damaging the growing seedling nearby. A damaged root crop sprouts a new root at the site of injury, that is, it bifurcates.
If you like large carrots, leave the plants less often. To get leveled roots, they should sit shoulder to shoulder in the ground.
Carry out any weeding on soft soil - after rain or watering.

Note! During thinning, a spicy aroma hangs over the garden bed, attracting carrot fly. To protect plants from pests, remove weeding waste in a timely manner and work early in the morning or in the evening.

Typical mistakes:

Thickened seeding. Instead of high-quality root vegetables, you will get “mouse tails”.
Sparse crops. Non-standard products, large specimens may produce side shoots and growths.

Watering

How to water carrots is the most controversial issue in crop cultivation technology. Supporters of traditional farming recommend doing this infrequently - 4-5 times per season, but plentifully. Water should wet the soil by 40 centimeters, which is 50–60 l/m². The first watering is carried out immediately after the seedlings, then approximately every 15–20 days. IN natural farming Watering is not recommended. Seedlings need abundant moisture before the appearance of 5–6 true leaves. After the first thinning, the beds are mulched with a layer of 5–7 cm and not watered at all or extremely rarely - in the case of a dry summer. There is an explanation for this - the roots of carrots (not to be confused with root vegetables!) reach 2–2.5 m and can provide themselves with the necessary moisture.

In any case, watering must be stopped completely at least a month before harvesting.

Note! How to grow large carrots if you can’t do without watering and there is no water? Plant late-maturing varieties. In the autumn it will rain, dew and fog will fall and the root crop will have time to catch up.

Typical mistakes:

Frequent but shallow watering. Root vegetable to get moisture and nutrition from upper layers soil, begins to grow lateral roots. As a result, “hairy” carrots grow.
Uneven hydration. If, after a long period of drought, you give abundant watering, there is a high probability of longitudinal cracking of the root crops.

Feeding

Root feeding of carrots is necessary if the full rate of fertilizers was not applied before sowing. They are effective in combination with watering. They are timed to coincide with the end of the breakthroughs, that is, 2-3 times per season. We need balanced fertilizers for root crops, such as Agricola, Bona Forte, Fertika (universal).

Typical mistakes:

Lack of fertilizers. In depleted soil, the root vegetables will be small; from a lack of potassium, the pulp becomes dense and hard; without phosphorus, it will not gain any sweetness.

Cleaning

The answer to the question of how to grow sweet carrots often depends on the nuances of harvesting. You can’t dig it up early, because in the last month of the growing season the vegetable intensively gains sugar. But it’s even more dangerous to leave carrots in the garden too long. A root crop that has been sitting in the ground begins to grow overgrown with young roots, becomes tough, and begins to taste bitter. To avoid such mistakes, when sowing, pay attention to the growing season of the variety and adhere to them.

Typical mistakes:

Early planting of varieties with a short growing season. If the ripening period arrived at the end of August, and the root crops were removed a month later, you will end up with woody, hairy roots and tasteless carrots.

Confined soil technologies

Being a long-day plant, carrots are not the most popular indoor crop. Nevertheless, growing carrots in a greenhouse allows you to get additional yields of a vitamin-rich vegetable out of season.

What nuances should you keep in mind?

For sowing in greenhouse conditions Early ripening varieties with a short growing season are suitable, for example, Minikor (88–90 days), Saturno F1 (50–55), Amsterdam (80–85).
If you sow carrots in February-March, the root crops will ripen by May. The second time is planted no earlier than August and the vitamin harvest is harvested during December-January.
Until mid-February, while daylight lasts less than 10 hours, it is necessary to apply additional lighting fluorescent lamps.

Otherwise, care is not much different from open ground technologies. Although on high yields You shouldn’t count on it in a greenhouse; young vegetables with tender, crispy flesh will diversify your table and eliminate the need for long-term storage.

Carrots in high beds:

If the sleigh needs to be prepared in the summer, then the garden - better in autumn. Proper cultivation during this period includes preparing the soil (digging and adding various substrates to improve its physical characteristics), applying fertilizers, and for some crops also mulching and covering winter plantings. Such actions significantly increase next year's harvest. It is best to prepare beds in the fall for various crops, taking into account the requirements of each of them.

How to prepare strawberry beds for winter

Strawberry, or garden strawberries, accumulates resources for future fruiting in the fall. Therefore, if you want to get a rich harvest of berries, and also protect them from frost, read in advance how to prepare strawberries for winter in the garden.

Autumn is the time to prepare the garden for the new season.

Autumn care for strawberry plantings

The main activities for caring for strawberries are best carried out after the end of fruiting, at the end of July, in August or at the beginning of September. What to do during this period:

Carefully, so as not to damage the growing points of young leaves, cut off old leaves and tendrils;
remove weeds from the area;
loosen the soil between the bushes, while hilling the plants a little (do not cover the growing point);
apply fertilizers and, if necessary, treat with insecticides;
Water the plantings abundantly, but not often, soaking the soil well.

Trimming old leaves

The root system of the plant is superficial, even with proper preparation of the strawberry bed it is injured, therefore, the sooner you treat the plantings, the stronger the bushes will be and the better they will withstand the winter. In the fall, especially before frost, do not pull out weeds in the area; leave this activity until spring.

Fertilizing strawberry plantings

After the strawberries have finished fruiting, don’t forget to feed them. Before winter sets in, you need to do this twice:

Immediately after harvesting (late July - early September) - use nitroammophoska, scattering it around the bushes (consumption 25-30 g per 1 sq. m.), or prepare its aqueous solution (2 tbsp. per 10 liters of water), pouring 0.5 liters for each bush. You can also use organic fertilizers, for example, mullein. Dilute it with water 1:3, leave for two days, add 1 glass of ash and apply 0.5 liters to each plant.
In late autumn (from the end of October), mulch the strawberry beds with humus or rotted compost, consumption 3–5 kg per 1 sq. m. m. You can also add superphosphate.

Sprinkle fertilizer around the bushes

When fertilizing the area, avoid getting fertilizers (especially dry mineral ones) on the leaves and growing points of plants, this can cause burns and destroy the bushes.

Ideal winter shelter

Garden strawberries in the presence of abundant snow cover It tolerates frost well, but cold winters with little snow can destroy the plants. To avoid this outcome, do not forget to insulate the strawberry beds in the fall after establishing a stable subzero temperature. You shouldn’t do this before; slight frosts will be beneficial.

The list of materials that can be used for shelter is quite extensive, but each has its own advantages and disadvantages:

Leaves, hay, straw are the most available materials, but they cake, it is quite difficult to separate them from the plants in the spring, the bushes under them can rot, and mice often overwinter in the straw, damaging strawberry plantings.
Pine needles, spruce branches - optimal choice for shelter, has good air permeability, which prevents damping out, but at the same time retains heat well.
Agrofibre - protects crops well from freezing, but it must be stretched over pre-installed arcs (the so-called air-dry shelter) so that the material does not come into contact with the plants, otherwise they will freeze even more than in the open air.

Covering strawberries for the winter with straw

In regions with little snowy winters, pay attention not only to the plants, but also to the row spacing, mulch them with leaves, straw, grass, and so on. This way you will save the superficial root system strawberries, because the soil will dry out, freeze and crack less.

Autumn preparation of beds

Areas for annual garden crops are also prepared in the fall. During the winter, the soil sags, becomes saturated with added minerals and organic compounds, and by spring it is almost completely ready for new plantings.

Preparing a bed for onions

Preparing beds for onions in the fall begins with choosing a location. Set them up where cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, potatoes grew, these are the best predecessor plants. Avoid places where garlic, carrots and, naturally, onions grew; it can be returned to its original place in 3-5 years. Compliance with sewing cycles not only optimizes plant nutrition, but also protects them from pests and pathogens.

Basic requirements for a landing site:

sunny, open area;
no weeds;
non-acidic loamy or sandy loam soil;
moderate soil moisture.

Fertilizers are evenly distributed throughout the area

If the area that was planned to be allocated for onions does not correspond to the ideal, it does not matter, everything can be corrected. So, lime acidic soil two years before planting onions. In addition to slaked lime, you can use wood ash, chalk, limestone and other substances. Build high beds on waterlogged soils.

Now about how to properly prepare a bed for onions. Autumn activities in this matter are quite simple:

remove weeds;
apply fertilizer;
Dig the soil to the depth of a spade.

Small sets for autumn planting

How to fertilize a bed for onions? Before digging, apply organic fertilizers, optimally 5 kg of compost or humus and 1 kg of wood ash per 1 sq. m. m. You can use chicken manure at the rate of 200 g per square meter. m. In addition, mineral fertilizers are applied in the fall. For example, 20 g of double superphosphate and 15 g of calcium chloride per 1 sq. m of territory.

The recommended width of the onion bed is 45–90 cm, and the length is determined mainly by the size of the plot. When determining the optimal parameters for sowing, keep in mind that the width between the furrows for planting onions should be about 20 cm, and the distance between the sets should be about 8 cm. Do not forget to leave wide passages between the plantings, they will greatly facilitate the care of crops.

Some gardeners practice autumn planting Luke. To do this, select the smallest set, less than 1 cm in diameter. Plant it in early October, about 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost. Deepen the bulbs into the ground 3 cm, and mulch the top with leaves, straw, pine needles or spruce branches.

Preparing a bed for carrots

Do you want to know how to prepare a carrot bed in the fall so that next year get good harvest? The main activities during this period come down to choosing a location, digging and fertilizing the soil. Proper preparation will allow you to grow beautiful root crops and significantly increase productivity.

Choose a place in the garden, taking into account the compatibility of the crop with its predecessor plants. It is better if the carrot bed is laid out in the place where potatoes, legumes, cabbage, and tomatoes previously grew. It is advisable that carrots should not be sown here for the previous 4-5 years. The following soil parameters are optimal for root crops:

high level of humus;
pH (acidity coefficient) 5.6 – 7;
easy permeability (loose loams or sandy soils).

Carrots grown on unprepared soil

Please note that in heavy or rocky soils, the roots will grow small and twisted. A similar effect is observed when fresh manure is added before planting.

Ideal preparation of a bed for carrots should take into account the characteristics of the soil on the site:

peat - per 1 sq. m of land, add 5 kg of river sand, 3-5 kg of humus, 6 kg of turf soil;
clayey and podzolic - per 1 sq. m – 1–2 buckets of peat and sand, 1 bucket of humus, 3–5 kg of sawdust (preferably not fresh);
light loamy - the same as for clay soils, only without sand;
chernozem - per 1 sq. m – 0.5 buckets of small stale sawdust and 1 bucket of sand.

Preparing high beds for carrots

In addition, add superphosphate from mineral fertilizers at the rate of 20 g per 1 square meter. m (some replace it with wood ash), as well as potassium salt - 10–15 g per 1 sq. m. After adding all the substances, dig up the area 1-2 shovels deep and level the surface.

The size of the carrot beds largely depends on the size of the plot, but experts do not recommend making them too wide. Narrow beds 45–90 cm wide and wide row spacing will provide the plants with maximum illumination. Please note that plantings should be placed at a distance of 25 cm between rows. The depth of the carrot bed should be at least 30 cm.

Preparing a bed for garlic

A bed for garlic in the fall is prepared both for planting winter varieties in open ground before the onset of frost, and for planting spring varieties in the spring. Site preparation usually begins in early September, and the basics of agricultural technology are the same for all types of plants. Answering the question: how to properly make a bed for garlic, we can distinguish several important steps:

choosing a location taking into account planting changes and soil characteristics;
removing weeds and digging up the soil to a depth of 25–30 cm;
application of fertilizers.

Winter garlic, prepared for planting

Place the bed for winter garlic where pumpkins, legumes, early cabbage. It can be returned to its original planting site no earlier than three years later, but if you still have to plant plants there again, pay attention to how to treat the garden bed after garlic in order to prevent diseases. To do this, water the soil with a solution of 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, consumption is approximately 1 bucket per 2 square meters. m. After watering, cover the ground with film.

Garlic prefers light, dry areas with light sandy loam soil. You can “improve” other soils with simple additions:

heavy clay soils– 1 bucket of peat and river sand per 1 sq. m;
peat soils - 1 bucket of river sand and loamy soil per 1 sq. m of territory;
sandy soils - 2 buckets of clay soil and 1 bucket of peat per 1 sq. m plot.

Garlic plantings mulched with humus

A garlic bed needs fertilizer in the fall:

organic - preferably compost or humus (1 bucket per 1 sq. m), but in no case fresh manure, it significantly increases the incidence of plantings and the susceptibility of plants to various microorganisms;
mineral - 2 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate, 1 tbsp. dolomite flour and it is possible, but not necessary, 2 tbsp. wood ash per 1 sq. m.

Do I need to close the beds for the winter? It all depends on the climate and winter characteristics in a particular region. Garlic is quite frost-resistant, but severe winters with little snow can significantly thin out the plantings, even despite mulching with peat or humus. Therefore, after the onset of frost, it is better to cover the beds with pine needles, leaves, sawdust, and tops.

Preparing a bed for cucumbers

Cucumbers are plants that are not very demanding on the composition of the soil, but still best harvests collected on sandy and loamy soils with neutral (or close to it) acidity. It is important that the area for this crop is not swampy. Nevertheless, proper processing will help to grow vegetables in any area, the main thing is to do it in advance.

The perfect cucumber bed

Don't know how to prepare a bed for cucumbers in the fall? Follow these tips:

Determine the location, preferably taking into account the planting shift schedule. Onions, legumes, cabbage, potatoes, and tomatoes are considered good predecessors of cucumbers. Do not plant them where other cucurbits have previously grown.
Prepare a trench or add borders for a raised bed. Place branches, straw, sawdust, and leaves on the bottom.
Apply fertilizers: mineral fertilizers are added during spring cultivation, and fresh manure is applied to the beds in the fall so that it “settles” a little over the winter. Although, experts are divided on when to put manure on the beds. Some advise doing this only in the fall, while others say that you can do it in the spring, adding 100 g of nitrophoska and 3 cups of wood ash for each square meter land.
Pour water over the manure and cover it with fertile soil approximately 30 - 40 cm.

Cucumbers love manure fertilization

The use of this technology will accelerate plant germination, the appearance of fruits and significantly increase the yield of vegetables. However, if it is not possible to create them, use another technology:

Dig up the beds in the fall and sow rye.
In the spring, two weeks before planting cucumbers, distribute humus over the area (3 buckets per 1 sq. m).
If necessary, add a soil loosening agent (stale sawdust, sand, etc.).
Dig up the ground, incorporating green manure and fertilizers into the soil.

Working in the garden requires a lot of effort and time, but it rewards you with high-quality environmentally friendly products. Proper preparation of the site in the fall, taking into account the individual needs of crops, significantly increases their yield, and helps perennials survive the winter without loss.