Most factory doors are designed for a wall thickness of 7-8 cm, standard for city apartments. Therefore, owners of suburban buildings, whose walls are often much thicker than apartment ones interior partitions, we have to adapt to the realities proposed by the industry. The areas of the opening not covered by the door frame are plastered, finished with plasterboard or plastic. However, it is much simpler, easier, and faster to install an extension on the door, which is a kind of door frame extender.
Video - installation of telescopic extensions
Why install an extension at all?
The extensions are two vertical posts and one upper horizontal bar, designed to increase the “coverage area” of the box. To put it simply, they expand the door frame. They are made from solid wood, MDF and fiberboard.
These strips can be purchased together with the door block or purchased separately. The extensions are not distinguished by their extremely complex design, and a home craftsman can easily make them himself from lumber or slabs that replace wood.
Various installation methods
Assembled from three components into a single whole, the extender-extension “in full view” copies the letter P, it is attached:
- or directly to the door frame;
- or to the wall in the area of the opening;
- or on a mounting beam located between vertical planes opening and extensions.
Since no one will “put” any special mechanical load on the extensions, sometimes only liquid nails are used for fixation in a specially made recess. But mostly they are mounted using galvanized self-tapping screws. If fastening is done from the front side, the fastener caps are hidden with mastics or matching plugs.
Justified advantages of extras
- Extremely high speed constructions and installations of expanded extensions door block.
- Absence of “wet” finishing processes that are unfavorable for the proximity of wood.
- Maximum increase in the period between successive repairs.
And unconditional aesthetic priorities, providing the impression of integrity of the presentable door design.
Accessories for boxes with and without a groove
You can buy doors for arranging a country house:
- with boxes, on the outside of which a grooved quarter has been pre-selected to align with the extensions;
- with box beams without the above equipment.
With the first option everything is relatively simple. Wooden or wood-chip strips of centimeter thickness are suitable for it. The width of the panel strips is measured with the base box installed in the opening. It is possible without it, but it is necessary to take into account that adding it only complements it. The width is determined by the distance from the edge of the opening to the end of the quarter-recess in the box. That is, the width of the extension is equal to the sum of the width missing to completely cover the opening and the transverse size of the recess. Most often it is 1 cm, but there may be other options.
Attention. All measurements must be carried out at several points. Preferably at four. It is possible that the readings will differ. If deviations are detected, the maximum is taken as the base size.
When fully assembled, the outer line of the extensions should be flush with the line of the opening. The millimeter-long excess is trimmed off with a plane, and then everything is closed with cash.
The additional extension of the door structure with a groove only needs to be nailed to a base that is not installed in the opening with reverse side with small galvanized nails in increments of 20-35 cm. You can simply insert it into the recess of a box fixed in advance in the opening, having previously lubricated the joints with glue.
If the contractor has at his disposal a box beam without a recess made by the manufacturer, he can:
- select a quarter yourself using a milling machine with a built-in ruler and a straight cutter, after which the box automatically goes into the clan of door elements with a device for installing the extension;
- attach the extensions to the box beam through holes drilled through the ends with self-tapping screws;
Note. Diameter through holes for attaching the extension strips to the box are not the same along the entire length. First, use a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the screw head, then equal to the size of its barrel.
- install additional elements on bars screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws, place the first of them 20 cm from the floor surface and then after 55-60 cm;
- “plant” the extensions together with the box inside a kind of base made of plasterboard or plywood;
- connect the box beam without a quarter with the extension strips by installing a strip passing from outside structures along the entire alignment line;
- The above-described lath or plywood strips should be fastened not in a continuous strip around the perimeter, but in separate sections.
Note. You need to nail both the beam and the extension strips to the rail; its central axis should coincide with the connection line, but can be slightly shifted.
Depending on the massiveness of this addition to the door block, the owner himself chooses how to install the extensions on the door. Any of these options is simple and can be done with your own hands.
Standard algorithm for installing extensions
Typically, the upper plank, combined with the lintel, is superimposed on two vertical elements. To calculate its length, two thicknesses of additional racks are added to the length of the lintel. However, it can also be placed between them. Then the length of the lintel will be equal to the width of the box, and the thickness must be added to the height of the left and right vertical elements top bar.
So, the installation order:
- First, we take measurements with scrupulous accuracy according to the diagram corresponding to the chosen installation method.
Note. For left and right extensions, vertical measurements are carried out separately. It is recommended to measure the inner line of the future vertical strip along the box, the outer line in fact in the opening.
- The board purchased for installation will be cut according to the measurements and the selected construction scheme.
- We attach all three additional parts to an installed or uninstalled, but fully assembled door frame.
- If the additions were nailed or screwed to a frame that was not installed in the opening, it must be installed together with the additions.
- We will place mounting wedges between the wall and the expanded door base and, by changing their position, we will align the structure in the opening.
- Before blowing installation gap We will install spacer wedges with foam, both between the box beams and between the extensions.
- We perform foaming in portions, filling the space in at least two steps. We control the hardening process and, if necessary, make adjustments while the foam hardens. Let's finish the job by sealing the gap between wooden parts And floor covering and installation of platbands.
The listed methods for expanding a door block are applicable to both interior and entrance doors. The only difference is the width of the additional strips. If the installation is carried out on front door, most often the width of standard additional boards is not enough. In such cases, several strips are connected to each other using splined connections or specialized adapters.
If the hinge stand is located near a blank wall, the box can be expanded in both directions. If there is no wall limiting the movement of the door leaf, and the door can “operate” at 180º, the frame is mounted flush with the outer plane of the opening, and the extensions are located on the side opposite to the opening/closing side. They must not interfere with the use of the door.
That's all the tricks with subtleties. What will be easier, more convenient, faster and more beautiful, you decide for yourself home handyman. It is important to know that any of the existing methods does not require special skills, but it is necessary to stock up on accuracy and attention.
And you need to solve it quickly, try making extensions for the front doors with your own hands. They can be made from different materials, and it won’t take much time.
It’s very easy to make accessories yourself
Types of additions
First you need to figure out what door extensions are. A situation may arise when the width of the hole is not large enough to completely cover the wall. Naturally, leaving a bare section of the wall is unacceptable. What to do in this case?
This is where additional elements come to the rescue; in fact, they are a strip that covers the section of the wall left without cladding; with their help, you can compensate for the lack of a narrow frame, and the door takes on a finished look.
Before you make extensions for entrance or interior doors with your own hands, you need to learn to distinguish between their types. The simplest one is a straight plank without a facing edge, it is very easy to make, almost any material is suitable for this, but for an aesthetic appearance you need to hide the raw end with the help of a platband.
The simplest addition is the usual wooden plank, covered with facing material
The second type is a kind of modification of the previous one. There is no difference in the design itself, the difference is that the end cut is sealed with an edge. This not only has a positive effect on the appearance of the product, but also protects the material from moisture penetration, which is especially important for chipboard and MDF.
A more advanced one is distinguished by the presence of an edge on the end side
The most complex is the telescopic extension; its peculiarity is that the bar has special protrusions and recesses that allow it to perfectly fit with other elements door system: box and platbands. The width is adjusted by the degree of recess into the grooves. To make such a bar you will need patience and additional tool.
The telescopic door panel has a special design
If you do not have experience in carpentry, it is better to limit yourself to the first two types.
Buy ready-made or make your own
What will end up being more profitable: buying ready-made accessories or making them yourself? This largely depends on the front door itself. Most models are made of steel, and appearance imitate natural wood. In this case, you can make the accessories yourself. The same goes for wooden doors.
Usually door extensions come complete with doors
If the metal door has a complex frame made of the same material, it may be better to purchase ready-made accessories; they will fit perfectly with the system and will not spoil general form. If your qualifications are not enough to do telescopic extensions, then it’s better to abandon the idea self-made, since ordinary ones can spoil the appearance of an expensive door. In addition, they can be ordered from door manufacturers complete with a frame, and they will be identical in color to all other parts of the structure.
Materials
Of course, not everyone will be able to make metal accessories on their own; mainly for this purpose they use:
- tree,
- plastic.
Basic materials for making accessories
Tree It is the most environmentally friendly material, but wood can deteriorate when unfavorable conditions operation, so it requires additional processing, which also requires effort and money.
MDF most often used for arrangement various designs. In industrial models, the inside is filled with cellular material between two thin sheets; in homemade ones, it is often an ordinary piece of MDF.
Chipboard worse quality than previous samples. If we're talking about about the internal entrance door to the apartment, in principle you can use it, especially since the cost of chipboard is low.
Plastic can also be used for arranging extensions, but the usual cheap material will not work, you need high-strength plastic, preferably reinforced with metal.
Door extensions made from MDF are the most popular parts in their segment - they last a long time and have a presentable appearance
Manufacturing instructions
How to make additions to the front door yourself? Let's consider a simple option that every home craftsman can do - wood trimmings.
Tree - the best option for self-production of accessories
The first step is to measure the width of the wall that needs to be covered with the addition. We take a strip of suitable width; lining is perfect for this purpose. Please note that the edge should extend slightly under the edge of the box, so the sides need to be slightly trimmed at an angle to create a neat, even chamfer. Bring the surface to perfect smoothness, use a grinder or sandpaper zero.
A neat, even bevel looks very aesthetically pleasing
To extend its service life, wood must be treated antiseptic impregnation, it will protect the accessories from mold, mildew, and insects.
Then you need to paint the planks with stain; you need to match its shade to the color of the door so that the difference between the elements of the frame and the canvas is minimized. After drying, the panels need to be varnished; this should be done in two layers to ensure reliable protection from moisture.
Wooden planks must be stained
If you decide to make panels from MDF or chipboard, the process is greatly simplified - you just need to cut the strips of the required width and veneer the sections, for this they use PVC edge on an adhesive basis. To attach it, use a heated iron, since under the influence of high temperature the glue softens and reliably bonds the edge to the surface, so the ends will be reliably protected from moisture and shocks.
The variety of colors of PVC edges is simply huge
Installation
Making the planks is only part of the task; then it is necessary to place them in their proper place. It is best to start installation from the top horizontal bar; after installing it, it will be easier to adjust the length of the side elements.
Extensions of entrance doors, if correctly selected, are installed quickly and without any difficulties
There are several ways to attach the extensions. Telescopic ones are installed in special grooves and snap into place with a lock. But direct extensions can be installed on liquid nails, but this method is not always suitable, especially if the wall surface is uneven.
Installation diagram of simple and telescopic extensions
Most often, homemade extensions are secured using self-tapping screws. First, you need to mark the locations of future fastenings and drill holes, then tighten the outer screws and then the central one. Once the location of the extensions has been outlined, you can begin to strengthen the structure; for this, a few more screws are tightened. Holes and caps can be masked with furniture plugs or using putty to match the material. Your front door is now ready!
Installation door leaf often involves the design of slopes for the purpose of decorating and leveling them. The optimal solution This task involves the additions, which are installed on the wall near the box. These structures are small planks made of wood or plastic. Before installing such products, you should learn the specifics of installing extensions on doors. This will simplify and speed up all installation operations.
The need for extras: pros and cons
Extensions are small planks or boards that are attached to slopes. They are used only on openings that are significant in width, and the box itself is not able to close them. Technically, these elements are not mandatory attributes of an entrance or interior door. You can do just fine without them, but you will need to create a wide slope, which is not always convenient or practical.
Door trims have several advantages over other finishing methods:
- Possibility of installation on uneven surface. Therefore, the additions eliminate additional wall finishing, which reduces the cost of materials.
- High-quality protection from pollution.
- High mechanical strength. This is especially true for products made from natural wood, from which extras are most often made.
- The planks installed on the slopes further strengthen door frame, preventing it from loosening or warping.
- Versatility. Extensions today are produced in various thicknesses and widths, which allows them to be used for finishing almost any type of slope. This is especially true for telescopic models, which can be sewn together like wooden lining.
- Variety of designs. The structures are made from various materials, which are designed according to certain style directions.
Mounting methods
Installation of door panels involves fixing them to the wall. This process is relatively simple and can be done in a few basic ways:
- Fastening directly when installing the door frame. In this case, the additional board is attached directly to the door frame. For this they can be used various ways. The most simple option is to knock them together using an inner board, which is attached to the frame and the box. When performing installation, it is important to align the planes of both elements to obtain a flat surface. But if the slopes have significant differences, then without certain skills it will be difficult to fit the elements very evenly with minimal damage.
To hide the joint between the frame and the extension, a tongue-and-groove joint is cut out at their ends. In this case, the board goes inside the door frame, which hides it underneath. This option is more common, as it allows you to get a beautiful and decorative surface.
Today, the extensions themselves at each of the ends are supplemented with similar grooves. This allows you to combine them into a more aesthetic system. But for metal doors It is impossible to make such a connection after installing the box. This is due to the fact that it is technically impossible to form a groove in metal using a router.
How to do it yourself?
Extensions are ordinary planks or boards that perform decorative function. Therefore, you can make them yourself from various materials. They are often formed from natural boards small thickness or sheet products (chipboard, plywood, etc.).
The process of making accessories at home can be divided into several successive stages:
- Initially, measurements of the opening are taken. It is important to measure slopes in different places to eliminate inaccuracies in dimensions. This procedure must be carried out for each side of the slope separately.
- Based on the data obtained, a workpiece should be made. To do this, the dimensions of the future addition are marked on the board. Please note that it is best to provide a small margin so that after installation, gaps do not form at the joints. When the markings are ready, the boards are cut into pieces. It is better to perform such operations using circular saw, as it will provide a more even and high-quality cut.
- The procedure ends with fitting and finishing of the frame. If the board is slightly larger, then the ends should be leveled using an electric plane. To add some extra unique design, the wood needs to be sanded and painted with stain or varnish. If laminated chipboard is used, then care must be taken to cover the ends with special tapes. They are glued to the material using an iron or a special hair dryer.
Manufacturing extensions allows you not only to save money, but also to obtain a durable system that will be adapted to specific operating conditions.
How to install correctly?
Installing door panels is a simple operation that, if desired, can be done independently. But before installing such elements, it is advisable to read the instructions for their installation. This will allow you to deliver them much faster and with better quality.
Required Tools
Installation of extensions is an operation that requires a minimum amount of skills. But to get high-quality results, you should use auxiliary tool, including:
- Hand or circular saw. The best option would be a grinder with a special wood circle or a jigsaw. It is advisable to use saws with small teeth to obtain a smooth joint without burrs.
- Milling machine. With its help, grooves are formed for joining the box and the additional board. Please note that installation can be carried out without this operation. But it is impossible to get accurate and invisible ends without it.
- Clamps. These mechanisms are used to fix the grinder to the chair. This will allow you to get a mini-circular saw, which will make it easier to trim the extension in the right place.
- Pencil and a long ruler.
To optimize your work, you will also need a long table or several stools. They are used as supports on which boards are laid during processing.
How to calculate?
Installation of extensions always begins with measuring the thickness of the wall. The choice of type and quantity of consumables depends on this parameter.
- First you need to get the width free space on the wall near the box. Measurements are taken using a ruler or a corner. The latter option is more accurate, since it is necessary to take into account the angle between the door frame and the board. It is advisable to find out the width along the entire perimeter of the opening.
- The next step is to measure the thickness of the door frame. This is necessary in order to select the appropriate addition, under which you will need to place a minimum number of supporting elements.
- The procedure ends with the calculation of the number of additions. This takes into account not only the width of the board and the opening, but also their height. It is advisable to take these parameters with a small margin, so that you can then adjust the canvas to the dimensions of the opening. Please note that all extensions on the market have standard sizes. Therefore, when choosing, you should focus on them.
What can be used instead of supplements?
Additional products are factory-type products that are produced with certain technical parameters. But no one bothers to replace finished products with improvised materials that every owner can find:
- Solid wood board. The best option for making accessories. The material holds up well high loads, and is also characterized by strength and durability. In this case, it is possible to use for the manufacture of structures various breeds tree. This will allow you to adapt the final product to the style of the frame and door leaf.
- MDF. Wood chip products that are used to make doors. Sheets of this material are also great for additions. But the substance resists moisture very poorly, so such elements can only be installed indoors with minimal humidity.
- Chipboard and fibreboard. Sheets made from wood waste that can be adapted for additions. They are quite easy to work with, but they are also susceptible to moisture, which limits their use.
- Plywood. There are several types of such substances that are moisture resistant. Plywood is the best option for making panels, as it has an optimal price-quality ratio.
If you do not have these materials, you can make an extension from scraps of plastic lining. Although it is not so durable, it is very easy to cut and is not afraid of moisture.
How to increase?
There are situations when the width of one standard panel is not enough to close the doorway. The solution to this problem is only to build up the fabric.
This process consists of several sequential steps:
- Initially, additional boards are installed near the box itself. It is important to fix them efficiently and evenly.
- After this, a second row of material is applied to them, which will protrude slightly beyond the edge of the wall. This will allow you to mark along the entire length of the board. Alternative option is the measurement of an uncovered piece of slope with subsequent transfer of dimensions to a new workpiece.
- When the marking is done, you need to saw off the extension. Please note that cutting is only done on the side that does not meet the previous board. This is important when used for extensions telescopic views coatings, since they are initially equipped with grooved connections.
When direct extensions are used, the side of their cutting does not matter. The main thing is that when docking they form a minimal gap.
Installation
The extension installation algorithm consists of the following sequential actions:
- Initially, all measurements are taken and the dimensions of all elements are adjusted. It is important that the joints of the boards have minimal gaps, as this will not only be unsightly, but will also lead to the formation of drafts.
- At this stage, the boards are adjusted to the wall. This process involves aligning it in the same plane with the door frame. If the slope is uneven, then wooden planks of varying thicknesses are placed under the decking. They should be attached to the wall using self-tapping screws and dowels.
When the slopes are located at an angle, then it is advisable not to align them parallel to the frame, but to form them with slight slope. In this case, the angle should be the same on both sides of the opening.
- The procedure ends with the installation and finishing of the extensions. To close the ends, with outside they have platbands, which are also made of the same material.
Extensions, or additional boards, are installed in the frame of the door if the width of the door frame (jamb, “jamb”) is less than the thickness of the wall in which the door is installed. Extensions play not only an aesthetic role, covering uneven and easily dirty slopes (if you are interested in other methods of finishing slopes, read about them here). They, together with the platbands, also strengthen the door and prevent it from warping. Do-it-yourself installation of extensions is possible both when installing a new door and on an existing door. We will look at the most common cases.
Additional boards can be made independently, from a flat board, edged or tongue-and-groove, for thick walls. For very thick or damp walls or backing boards, waterproof BS plywood (aircraft plywood) covered with a decorative self-adhesive film is very suitable: BS plywood does not delaminate or crack during fine processing of the edges and does not warp from moisture.
Door frame with extensions. The mustard color indicates the lining.
However, most often it turns out to be cheaper and easier to use ready-made additional MDF boards with decorative coating. Standard sizes Factory-made extensions are in the range of 80 – 550 mm. For cases where it is necessary to make stacked extensions on thick walls, MDF extensions with a tongue-and-groove lock are produced.
According to standard technology, the extensions are installed in a special recess on the inside of the door frame - a quarter. However, when installing extensions on an already standing door, it is permissible to use attached extensions (adjacent to the door frame) and underlays (slipped under it).
Attached extensions are recommended to be used only in dry rooms with moderate temperatures and in cases where the door is made of very high quality or may lose value due to alteration (for example, if the door is an antique item or a museum exhibit).
If the door is slanted
If the door jamb is skewed and the deviation of the top bar from the horizontal is more than 5% of its length, and the door leaf is adjusted to fit the slanted frame, installing extensions without altering the door is not recommended. The door frame itself does not warp; its distortion indicates structural defects, without correction of which the additions will not immediately look good, and subsequently they will warp and split.
Tools and accessories
To install door trims, you will need some additional tools: a hand-held wood router, a hand-held circular (parquet) saw and a clamp with a soft bed frame. The clamp is most needed so that, by pressing the saw against the stool with the disc up, you can get a convenient mini-circular saw. You can tighten the clamp softly by successively putting it on it and heating it over gas burner at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m, heat-shrinkable tube in 3-4 layers.
The accessories you will need are 3-4 stools of the same height and not wobbly, 4-5 wooden planks approximately 30x30 or 40x40 mm, a dozen wedges from the same strip and several strips (you can waste) of ordinary packing plywood or plasterboard.
Door installation process
Knocking out the base plane
In preparation for installation of accessories doorway you need to immediately mark off the base plane and mark its mark on the floor with a pencil. This is exactly done using the Pythagorean triangle method (a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5; the “magic triangle”). Let's give an explanation of how to do this in the figure:
- We consider half the width of the doorway at the bottom to be equal to three basic lengths - 3l. If, for example, the width of the opening is 60 cm, then half of it is 30 cm, and the base length (l) is 10 cm.
- We make two marks from the corners of the opening with a cord 5l long. From their intersection at point B to point O (the middle of the opening) there should be 4l. In this case, the OB line will be exactly perpendicular to the plane of the opening, and all measurements can be taken horizontally from it; a plumb line will give the required vertical accuracy.
Note: If you have the opportunity to use a laser base surface projector, then the described procedure is not necessary. But it will not be possible to achieve the required accuracy with the help of a carpenter's or plumber's large square: the error will be greater than the size of the gap between the door leaf and the door frame.
What to do if the walls are sloped
When checking the verticality of the walls, it may turn out that they have a slope, positive or negative. If the slope does not exceed 5 mm along the height of the door, it can be eliminated on the surface under the casing with plaster. If it’s more, there’s nothing you can do; when sawing additional boards to size, you’ll also have to cut them into a wedge.
Foam blowing
After installing the additions, the cracks are blown in before plastering. polyurethane foam. When the foam hardens, it expands and creates quite significant pressure. To prevent this from affecting the finished door frame, you must follow the following rules:
- Do not remove the leveling wedges until the foam has completely hardened.
- Also, do not remove the spacer bars; if they were not previously needed, install them with friction, but not tightly. Spacer strips should support the extensions, and not push them apart.
- Blowing with foam uniform movement along the perimeter in 3-4 steps; each subsequent one - after the previous one has completely hardened.
- There should be some space left from the outer edge of the foam to the edge of the slope. If you see the next layer of foam coming out, stop blowing. “Re-plastering” later is better than “blowing out” now.
Immediately with the box
The most technologically simple case is to install door trims yourself when installing a new door along with the door frame. This operation is performed in the following order:
- We place the door jamb on the stools with the inner (opposite to the hinges) side up.
- We align the corners to rectangularity, checking with the diagonals: they should be of equal length. To do this, we temporarily nail to the bottom with small nails a wooden strip with a length equal to the length of the top strip of the door.
- If the jamb does not have a quarter for additional finishing, we select a quarter with a milling machine. The depth of the quarter should be equal to the thickness of the additional board, and its width should be equal to the depth.
Example: additional board – 16 mm thick ( standard thickness MDF). You need to choose a quarter 16X16 mm.
- Along the perimeter of the door frame, we attach strips of plywood or drywall to the outside so that they protrude upward to the width of the additional board. A continuous frame is not needed; two scraps are enough for the top bar and 3-4 for the sides. We nail the plywood with nails; The drywall will have to be secured with self-tapping screws.
- We cut the extensions to size. The top trim strip should lie between the side ones, so we cut it to the size of the top quarter, and the side strips to the size of the sides of the box.
- On both edges of the quarter we apply liquid nails or any assembly adhesive on wood.
- We insert the additional boards into place and wait for the glue to set.
- We are renting a temporary bottom bar, kept the extensions from falling out of the plywood and put the door frame in place.
- Align the box reference plane.
- We align the box width using wooden spacers; We check the verticality of the sidewalls with a plumb line.
- By knocking wedges under the sidewalls, we achieve horizontality of the upper door strip.
- We fill the cracks with foam and plaster them flush with the wall surface.
- We nail the baseboards, cut them to size and glue them liquid nails platbands - the door with extensions is ready.
Finished door and straight slopes
In this case, in order to facilitate the installation of the extensions, you need to prepare in advance a dozen or so thin, 3-4 mm thick, wedges from waste plywood. After that:
- We knock the plaster off the slopes and check if there is a quarter on the door frame. If yes, then all that remains is to select additional boards according to thickness.
- We cut the extensions to size, but not in the same way as described above: the top board will now fit the size of the box at the top; side ones - the size of the side quarters.
- We apply liquid nails to the inner edge of the side panels and insert them into place. If you can reach a quarter, it is better to apply glue to it.
- We adjust the height of the extensions using wedges from below, as described.
- We insert one by one spacer strips, pre-cut to the width of the doorway, and support the extensions on the side of the slope with thin wedges so that they do not fall out. We check the verticality of the extensions with a plumb line; better - two at once, suspended in advance.
- Apply glue not to the tops of the side panels, but to the inner edge of the top panel board (or a quarter), and lay the top panel board.
- After the glue hardens, blow it with foam and decorate it as described.
If there is no quarter and with inclined walls
If the door frame is without a quarter, then there are two options:
- Reverse quarter. Using a milling machine, we remove a quarter of the extensions, 10-15 mm wide and half the thickness of the extensions. For “not very” sloping walls, this option is convenient because the quarter of the extension can be made oblique in width, and such extension will hold up no worse than a “normal” one.
- If the walls are brick, then you can knock out a groove in the slope under the door frame and install lining. This option is convenient for those who do rough work with a lot of effort better than light but fine work.
In both cases, the extensions are installed using auxiliary thin wedges, as already described.
Slopes with slope
If the slopes of the doorway are sloping (widening opening), then, regardless of new door or an existing one, add-ons need to be installed when standing door. The fact is that when installing direct extensions, you will end up with a very wide gap. After blowing with foam, there will be a space behind the casing where the plaster lies on the foam. Sooner or later, cracks and/or gaps will form there.
Therefore, before installing extensions in openings with inclined slopes, the inner edge of the extensions must be reduced along the length to a wedge, as marked in the figure with a red circle. After cutting to size, the extensions themselves will take the shape of a trapezoid. Otherwise, the installation of add-ons in this case has no special features.
Interior doors
As a rule, extensions are installed on the side opposite door hinges. But when installing interior door extensions, there may be a case when they will have to be installed on the hinge side. If so, then you need to first check whether the additions will not interfere with the opening of the door.
If at completely open door between its edge and the edge of the door frame there remains a gap equal to the thickness of the trim with a margin of 2-3 mm, there are no problems: we install the trim using any of the methods described above. If the edge of the door is adjacent to the edge of the frame, you need to install backing boards, having first knocked down the plaster from the slopes. This should not be neglected: just 1.5 mm of “pressing” the sash to the door will eat up 10 degrees of its opening angle, not to mention the fact that the door will soon be damaged.
Read about the full cycle of installing an interior door here.
Steel doors
Extras for steel doors It is possible to install only underlays. There is a nuance here: along the length of the extensions, along their inner DECORATIVE side, at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge you need circular saw choose a groove with a depth of a third of the thickness of the extension and a width of the thickness of the corner from which the door frame is welded plus 1 mm. It is in this groove, when the edge of the steel door frame fits into it, that the frame will hold the extension with itself.
Even more information about the nuances of installing entrance doors can be found at the link.
Stacked accessories
When covering walls with MDF panels, laminate, etc. The door frame can be assembled using pieces of sheathing material, longitudinal or transverse. But technologically, such an operation already relates to the technology of wall cladding, and not the installation of add-ons.
Video: full cycle of installing an interior door
When choosing interior doors, we try to make our choice based not only on practicality; their aesthetic side is also an obligatory fact. With the help of a properly selected door, you can add a special, unique style to the interior of the room.
Installation of extensions on interior doors is required when there is a difference between the width of the wall and the width of the door frame. Door panels perform the following functions:
- closing irregularities;
- closing slopes;
- strengthening the main door structure;
- preventing the door frame from warping.
A completely logical question arises about how to install additional interior door. And it is so possible to install extensions for interior doors with your own hands. Of course it is possible, and installation is carried out both on interior doors that have already been installed for a long time, and on doors whose installation is only planned.
Existing types of add-ons
Depending on your personal abilities and preferences, you can install extensions on interior doors with your own hands or give preference to those that are installed during the production process.
The most suitable material for additions can be used different kinds boards
Much when choosing a material depends on the type of room where the extensions for interior doors will actually be installed. If this is the room where there is high level air humidity, then the best option the doorway will be finished with extensions and platbands,
made of waterproof plywood. This material has the ability to maintain its stability and structure as much as possible, despite humidity.
Attention! If for a room with high humidity If an ordinary board is chosen, there will be a risk of cracks and deformations.
Modern man strives for perfection and therefore many try to do everything with their own hands. But as practice shows, making accessories with your own hands is not entirely advisable, since accessories made in industrial conditions are much more profitable in terms of price. In the industrial process, MDV is taken as the basis. She is passing the preliminary decorative treatment, and the size of ready-made extensions for interior doors is 80 - 550 mm.
The simplest and most standard installation procedure is to connect the extension to an existing recess. It is located inside the structure. In the event that the question arises of how to attach the extensions to an already installed interior door, you can solve this problem by using attached or underlay extensions.
Door installation process
In order to carry out installation, you must have everything at hand necessary tools, namely:
- manual wood milling machine;
- hand-held circular saw;
- a clamp with a soft covering.
The clamp can be attached to any flat surface, such as a stool. In this case, the disk should be positioned upward. The result is a device that performs the function of a circular. Exactly circular saw will become the detail that is simply irreplaceable in the process of installing extensions on interior doors.
A heat-shrinkable tube is used as a material for the manufacture of sheathing on the clamp. It just needs to be made from several layers. Heat-shrinkable tubing requires heating in order for it to acquire the required shape; this requires alternating heating of each layer and then cooling.
In addition to the tools, you need some auxiliary elements:
- stools of the same height, 3 pieces. For convenience, you need to choose only very stable stools;
- wooden slats with dimensions 30*30mm.
- wedges in the amount of 10 pieces.
- drywall or plywood.
Marking
On the doorway where the installation of the extensions will actually be carried out, it is necessary to first make a beating of the base plane. Special marks are made on the floor using a pencil. In order to make the chop as correctly as possible, you should use the Pythagorean theorem. Using the following figure, let's try to understand the correctness of its use:
- We measure the bottom width of the opening and take half of it. The half taken is equal to 3 base lengths, that is, equal to 3:1. If the bottom width is 60 cm, and we take only half, that is, 30 centimeters, then one base length will be equal to 10 centimeters.
- At a distance of 51 centimeters from the existing corners, 2 notches are made. As a result, from the intersection point (O) to the middle (B) the distance is 41 centimeters. The resulting straight line OB is equally perpendicular to the plane of the doorway itself. It is from the resulting line that all measurements and calculations must be made.
Attention! If it is possible to use a laser base surface projector, there is no need to go through the above procedure.
What to do if the walls have a slope
It is quite possible that the walls have a slope. If the slope is no more than 5 mm, then this can be corrected using a layer of plaster distributed under the platband. If the indicator is higher, wedges will be needed.
Working with foam
After the procedure for installing the extensions on the interior doors is completed, you need to blow out all the cracks with foam. It is known that foam has the property of expanding when it hardens and, as a result, the joint can lead. In order to avoid this you need to:
The procedure for installing extensions simultaneously with the box
Installation of the door frame along with the extensions is done in the following sequence:
Door with straight slopes
To facilitate the installation of extensions on interior doors, it is necessary to first prepare about 20 plywood wedges with a thickness of about 4 mm. After the preparation process, you can begin installing the accessories:
Composite type accessories
If the walls are covered with MDF or other similar material, then the remaining pieces of material can be used as an extension for the frame doors. But if we consider this issue from a technological point of view, then, of course, this operation relates to a greater extent to the procedure of wall cladding and does not correspond much to the technology of installing extensions on the front door or interior door.
What to do if the door is installed askew
In some cases, it is not rational to install additional material. A skewed door jamb is exactly such a case. This means that the degree of non-compliance with the upper limit is greater than 5%. Often, distortion of the box structure occurs when the manufacturing technology was violated during the production process. Failure to comply with the technology resulted in defects.
Conclusion
Installing extensions on a door frame is not difficult. The only thing that is very important is to be as careful and attentive as possible. It is very important to take all measurements as accurately as possible and check the evenness using a plumb line. When everything is done, the interior door will be used for a long time and no problems will arise throughout the entire period.
We will learn how to take correct measurements when installing trims and trim on the front door and interior doors in the next video.
