To decorate your personal plot many owners use juniper. This plant of the Cypress family amazes with the variety of shapes and colors of its needles. You can create a carpet from creeping varieties, make hedge using shrub species or tree forms to highlight the central part of the lawn. Its beneficial effect on human health has been known since ancient times. Therefore, propagation of juniper is a pressing task for many gardeners.
Cossack juniper variety "Blue Danub"
Most plant species easily tolerate the realities of Russian climatic conditions. Juniper does not require care and easily tolerates dry periods. Despite the fact that this plant loves Sun rays, it can also grow in shaded areas.
The most common types in our country are:
- juniper virginiana, which came to us from the North American continent;
- rocky, can grow up to 10 meters high;
- horizontal juniper will cover any area with a carpet, its Cossack juniper variety allows propagation by all known methods;
- medium juniper resistant to impacts external environment, came from a combination of Cossack and Chinese;
- common juniper has creeping and tree-like forms.
Plant propagation
Juniper from seeds
The easiest way to propagate juniper is by seeds, but characteristic feature plants is the fact that the first shoots may appear no earlier than a year after planting. Improved germination is achieved by seed stratification. By sowing them before winter or artificially creating conditions of high humidity and temperature. This method was first used by R. Silva, described in 1664 in the work “Conversation about forest trees and their propagation for logging.” Some varieties can remain in the ground without sprouting for up to 4 years, and the appearance of fruits will be delayed for another 10 years.
The photo shows juniper fruit and seeds
Propagation of juniper by seeds
The general methodology boils down to the following steps:
- Fruit collection. It is necessary to pick the darkest berries. The light ones contain unripe seeds.
- After soaking and grinding, the seeds are extracted from the fruits.
- The seeds are placed in a weak acid solution for half an hour, then washed. If you have time, it is permissible to mix the seeds with ash, grind and incubate for 3 weeks.
- Soil preparation consists of mixing the base with soil from under an adult juniper. There are symbiont mushrooms that help the plant grow.
- When planting in open ground, mulching with humus or peat is required.
- Seeds can be planted in a box, but then the dishes are taken out of the room and covered with snow.
- In the spring, when a plant begins to sprout, it is advisable to insulate it.
Seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location at the age of three. An older plant may not tolerate transplantation.
When possessing particularly valuable plant varieties, propagation occurs by grafting. In this case, the cut off part is pressed against the rootstock - this is the carrier of the new plant; common juniper is most often used for these purposes. A part of the plant is combined with the rootstock, and at the junction it is superimposed polyethylene film. There is no need to take any further action, but the survival rate is low.
Juniper reproduces by seeds in wildlife However, it is quite difficult to increase the number of plants by grafting, so at home the most productive methods of propagation are cuttings or layering.
Propagation of juniper by cuttings
If you plan to propagate juniper in the spring, then you need to cut the cuttings at the beginning of February. At current plans reproduction in autumn period, preparations are made in early June. Since in the cypress family, juniper in particular, roots will appear no earlier than after 25 days, and the plant will take as long as 2 months to take root.
Juniper cuttings
Juniper cuttings are one of the most versatile methods of plant propagation. In autumn and summer period It's not worth doing this. Best time for juniper cuttings it is spring. Then at the end of summer it will form root system, the young plant can easily overwinter in open ground. If the procedure is carried out in the summer, it is necessary to maintain the plant until spring next year in a heated place, in extreme cases, it needs to be well covered.
The instructions are quite simple:
- Planting material is taken from the tops of a tree or bush. It must be non-lignified. If you plan to breed creeping varieties, then a cut is made from plants that grow vertically.
- To avoid damage to either the cut cutting or the carrier, the work must be done when there is no sun: either at night or when it is cloudy.
- Shoots up to 25 centimeters in length are cut using sharp knife. The bark and branches below are removed to a height of 4 cm, since this is where the root system will form. They cannot be stored; at most, cut branches can be placed in water for 2–3 hours.
- It is necessary to prepare the mixture for planting in advance. It consists of peat and humus mixed in equal parts.
- Before planting plants, a drainage layer of sand or small stones is made.
- The distance between plants is maintained about one meter.
- The depth of the cuttings should not exceed 2 - 3 centimeters.
- If propagation is done for creeping varieties, then the shoots are planted horizontally; in other cases, planting is done in a vertical position.
- Direct sunlight is not acceptable at the planting site; only diffused light is needed.
- Watering is average; if the seedlings are over-watered, they may die; it is better to spray them frequently.
At the end of summer, beginning of autumn, plants can be planted in open ground.
Before planting, it is not recommended to use plant growth stimulants; the bark may peel off, which will negatively affect the rooting process. It is better, after soaking in the soil for several days, to water it with heteroauxin or sodium humate, but do not overdo it. Potash fertilizers also cannot be used; juniper prefers an alkaline environment.
When planting in a permanent place, 3 months after planting in seedling boxes, care must be taken, because the newly formed root system has a delicate structure, the best solution let the plants overwinter in greenhouse conditions, you can simply move it to your house or apartment.
Propagation of juniper by offsets
Reproduction of Cossack juniper by branches
If the plant variety is creeping - it could be Cossack juniper green carpet, blue chip, then the method of propagation by cuttings is acceptable. The procedure is carried out throughout the growing season.
The instructions are as follows:
- Before cutting the branch, it is necessary to water the mother plant abundantly. Loosen the soil.
- The soil is prepared, it is necessary to mix peat with humus in equal proportions, add river sand to it.
- The youngest shoots no longer than 25 centimeters are cut off.
- The heel is exposed by four cm.
- The bare stem is pressed against the prepared soil; it must be secured with wire or synthetic tape.
- The attached branch must be mulched with peat or humus.
The young plant requires constant care - watering and hilling; when the root system appears, it can be replanted to a permanent place, but it will appear only within one year.
Video “Propagation of juniper by cuttings”
Care for young seedlings
Caring for a newly planted plant is quite simple. Every spring it is necessary to fertilize the soil with nitroammophos, but the consumption should not exceed 50 grams per square meter. No other fertilizers are required. There is no need to feed juniper more than once a month. It is better to spray it more often during sunset or dawn; this should not be done in bright sunlight. There is no need to trim the plant; as a last resort, you can remove branches that have dried or broken.
Juniper prefers acidic soil and can also grow confidently in sandy soils. The older the plant gets, the higher its resistance to cold middle zone our country.
Even the laziest person can grow and care for the plant, as it is completely unpretentious. But you need to be extremely patient, because the results of juniper propagation can only be seen in a few years. But it will make an excellent decoration for a personal plot.
Juniper is a coniferous plant popular among summer residents; many prefer to plant it in compositions. To obtain new seedlings, it is recommended to propagate juniper by cuttings at home. This method is more convenient than the seed method, and most importantly the costs are minimal.
Majority decorative varieties retains its characteristics only when cuttings. Among all the diversity of juniper, there are several specimens for which propagation by seeds is contraindicated.
Successfully and quickly propagated by cuttings:
- The Meyeri variety (scaly type) has decorative blue-green needles with an unusual steel tint. It is a dwarf plant that grows from 30cm to 1m in height and is often used for bonsai. Annual growth varies between 8-10 cm. It looks attractive thanks to its thick crown and hanging shoots.
Variety Holger
- Holger (scaly species) is distinguished by whitish-blue needles and low growth (0.8-1 m). The current year's shoots take on a golden color, giving the bush a playful appearance. Does not require cutting, suitable for gardens, landscaping roofs and terraces.
- Kuriwao Gold is propagated strictly by cuttings. This is a shrub with an asymmetrical crown, growing up to 2 m by the age of 10. The branches grow upward, adding 15-20 cm annually. For group plantings, 1.5 m is left between plants.
- Mint Julep is the result of crossing the Cossack and many beloved Chinese species. Attracts attention with wide branches covered with mint-colored needles. The peculiarity is that in winter the color of the needles does not fade. By the age of ten it stretches up to 3 m. It is resistant to drought, gas pollution, and severe frosts.
- Mordigan Gold is a golden-colored variety with pronounced bactericidal properties. It is given nobility by horizontally diverging shoots and the golden hue of the needles. Despite its slow growth, it grows in diameter up to 2 m.
- Wiltoni forms a creeping carpet with silvery needle-like needles. It is difficult to imagine that a modest twig purchased at a nursery can grow 3 m or more in all directions. In addition to the main lashes, many lateral lashes are formed, capable of producing their own roots and shoots. To create a continuous coniferous carpet, you need to plant 1 specimen per 2 m2. If you want to get a practical lawn in 5 years, you will have to root 2-3 plants per 2 m2.
- Dream Joy – scaly juniper with long creeping shoots. Grows up to 40 cm, crown diameter 1 m. Annual growth at favorable conditions is 17 cm. Prefers sunny areas, has a negative attitude towards compacted soil and excessive moisture.
- Gold Coast is a bush up to 1 m high with yellow-green soft needles. In the shadows it loses its brightness. It is unpretentious to soils and polluted air.
- Lime Glow is another member of the family with a yellow crown. The shoots, located radiantly, form a small depression in the center. Small needles become bronze by autumn.
- Variety Schlager is a dwarf bush up to 25 cm high. It grows in different sides unevenly. The young growth has a pleasant grassy color that stands out against the aged needles. Suitable for decorating walking paths, rocky gardens, slopes.
Planting dates and rules for preparing planting material
Cuttings – cheap way obtaining new conifers for landscaping the site. This method has many advantages:
- the obtained samples retain varietal characteristics;
- have greater vitality;
- form a strong root system;
- take root faster and actively develop;
- less exposed to pests;
- there are 2 times more established cuttings than seedlings;
- reach the size of an adult shrub several years earlier than planting from seeds.
Juniper cuttings can be carried out from early spring to autumn. Some gardeners prefer to separate the shoots in the spring when the period of active growth begins. From April to May, you need to cut semi-lignified cuttings from the formed part of the bush. A thickened base, or “heel,” should remain on the workpiece. The optimal shoot length is 12 cm, but not more than 25 cm.
In the fall, you can also get seedlings from cuttings. Pros autumn landing are based on the fact that plant stomata due to high humidity air are closed. The branches practically do not evaporate water in the fall, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the bush and its reproduction.
To get strong seedlings, harvest only from mature trees or shrubs about 8-10 years old. They retain the characteristics of the mother plant.
If you cut off the top part, the tree will develop predominantly upward; if you separate the lower branches, the daughter plant will begin to grow in width. If the crown is vertical, then cuts of juniper branches are made vertically. If the crown is bush-shaped, then cuttings are taken from the side parts.
Instructions for growing juniper from cuttings
A correctly cut cutting needs to be prepared for planting:
How to root juniper without unnecessary difficulties? There are several tricks:
- First, prepare the substrate. The optimal composition for the development of a juniper branch is a mixture of sand and peat in equal proportions. You can add a little crushed charcoal and perlite. But it is worth remembering that junipers do not like high acidity of the soil. If necessary, high acidity can be neutralized using lime, lime flour or ash.
- Optimal temperature for germination – from +18 to +23°C. If it is lower, the seedlings will rot. When the recommended values increase, the process of debate will begin or the soil will dry out quickly.
- You need to make a hole in the substrate 3-4 cm deep and 1 cm wide. The cutting is carefully placed in the prepared hole, the soil is compacted and watered. If a group of cuttings is planted, then a distance of 5-8 cm is maintained between them.
- The plantings are sent to the greenhouse. A regular pot covered with a bag will do.
Lighting is required to be diffused; direct sunlight should not fall on the plantings. Re-wetting the substrate may only be necessary if it dries out. Do not forget about periodic ventilation to prevent condensation. The first roots should appear 25 days after planting. Rooting will occur in 2 months.
Video about the rules of cuttings.
If you want to experiment, you can start growing at the same time. For better germination planting material stratify. It will take 3-4 years before planting in a permanent place.
Planting in open ground and seedling adaptation
There is no need to rush into transplanting juniper to a permanent place of residence. The time for planting rooted bushes is chosen so that they have time to adapt before the onset of cold weather. Cuttings taken early, for example in winter in February or at the end of autumn, can be planted in the spring. Ideally, about 70 days should pass from the moment of planting in the greenhouse. If the branches were cut late, then it is better to grow juniper at home until next spring. In some cases, planting in the fall is allowed. If the seedling took root in a separate pot, it can be moved into open ground and buried without removing it from the container. Since the risk of freezing is high, insulation will have to be used.
You can now plant the plant in early spring as soon as the snow melts. If you move it later, there is a risk of the needles burning out in the sun. A well-lit place is selected, slight shading is allowed. The seedling is transferred to open ground with a clod of earth so that the root system is not damaged. The roots of young juniper are very thin and fragile.
If the variety is columnar in shape, then the seedling is placed vertically. If the form is bushy, then place it at an angle.
Prepare for landing landing hole with a drainage layer. Approximate size 1*1 m or 2-3 times larger than a soil clod. The seedling is immersed in a hole and covered with soil, leaving the root collar near the surface. After planting, the plant is watered and mulched.
Spruce+thuja+juniper+pine
Young specimens during the first years of life must be protected from frost and bright sunlight. The plant is undemanding to moisture, can tolerate drought, but does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. It is enough to water the juniper once a month. In the spring, the conifer will benefit from fertilizing with nitroammophos (45 g per 1 m2); in the summer, organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Fertilizing is applied once a month if the tree or bush is developing too slowly.
To successfully grow a group of conifers, a gardener needs to know how to propagate juniper from cuttings. Varietal characteristics are preserved only if all propagation rules are observed, starting from the time of separation of the cuttings and ending with its adaptation in the garden.
Fast and in a productive way propagation of juniper and other representatives of the Cypress family is by cuttings. Cutting young branches and then rooting them indoors can be done all year round, even in harsh February.
Obtaining ready-made seedlings with strong roots is calculated according to the timing: if planting material is needed for spring planting at the planned growing sites, then the collection of juniper branches (cuttings) and rooting are carried out in January-February. By autumn plantation planting, respectively - in early summer. Coniferous species take a long time to form roots; on average, they appear on the 25th day in juniper, so you should not rush into rooting time. Cuttings coniferous species an order of magnitude heavier and more voluminous than currant or grape “blanks”, so they are cut no longer than 25 cm, and creeping juniper varieties are rooted obliquely.
It is advisable to harvest branches in the upper and middle parts of the bush, while simultaneously forming the crown and thinning out the thickened plant. Having collected the cuttings, the lower planting part is carefully removed stationery knife from the needles, being careful not to damage the bark. It is better not to soak prepared shoots in root formation stimulants, since the tender juniper bark quickly peels off in water and the overall productivity of the harvest is lost. It is more advisable to first plant the cuttings in the substrate and then drench all plantings with heteroauxin, sodium humate or the Zircon preparation, which will significantly increase the rate of root formation and the survival rate of the branches.
Juniper requires an acidic structure of the soil substrate, and if one is not available at home, then pine needles cut from the base of cuttings, river sand are added to ordinary soil, and an increased dose of mineral fertilizing is added.
Place containers with plantings strictly under diffused daylight, otherwise the branches will burn out and die if they are exposed to sunny windows. Watering a rooting plantation is done infrequently, keeping in mind intolerance coniferous species excess moisture. If possible, planting containers are fed with water through trays to prevent moisture stagnation and the juniper cuttings are superficially irrigated from a spray bottle.
In spring, rooted seedlings are transferred to an open area. sunny plot under a light frame greenhouse made of nonwoven fabric, and the autumn removal is placed in a trench and the planting is mulched with a layer wood chips, mixed with peat and pine bark. For spring-planted planting material, the greenhouse is dismantled in August and the formed young juniper is placed in its planned areas. Autumn seedlings from the trench after wintering are transferred to permanent places habitat in the first ten days of summer.
Juniper is a coniferous plant. Usually it is grown in plots at the dacha or in the garden, sometimes in the vegetable garden, more often on the street if we are talking about the city, for example, but juniper is rarely grown at home. Of course, this can be done at home if you plan to eventually transplant this coniferous plant somewhere, because it will, albeit slowly, still grow, which means it will take up more and more space. more space in your house. You must be prepared for this in advance before you start propagating juniper at home. Its growth can still be restrained or kept at a specific level thanks to planned pruning of the plant, and you can also come up with a whole composition of several juniper trees, constantly propagating them and planting them in different pots.
Preparing soil for planting juniper cuttings at home
Juniper is unpretentious and takes root well on thin soils. But most of its species prefer light soil with good drainage. For each seedling, prepare a hole approximately 2 times larger than the rhizome of the seedling, along with the soil covering it. The larger and taller the type of juniper, the greater the distance the trees are planted. For small species, the distance may be slightly less than one meter, and for larger ones 1.5 m - 2.5 m. At the bottom of the hole, a drainage layer is made of small stones or broken bricks, covered with sand. The thickness of the drainage layer is approximately 15-20 cm. A mixture of turf soil, sand and peat in a ratio of approximately 2:1:1 is poured over the drainage. IN planting holes you can add a little compost and add 30 grams. nitroammofoski. For common, Central Asian or Cossack juniper you need alkaline reaction soil. In preparation
The earth mixture for these types needs to reduce the amount of sand and peat, and add a little slaked lime or 200-300 g. dolomite flour. Juniper virginiana prefers clay soil, which mixes with a small amount sand.
Preparation of juniper cuttings for planting
The preparation of cuttings is carried out in cloudy weather, because the sun's rays can have a negative effect on both planting material and adult juniper. For cuttings, the tops of semi-lignified shoots are used, since they are considered better formed for continued growth. The shoots are freed from interfering needles and twigs, to a height of approximately 3-4 cm from the heel - it is in this place of the shoot that a new root system will form. 
Sometimes you may hear recommendations to soak cuttings before planting in a special root stimulator. However, this should not be done, because the juniper bark is very delicate and in water it can simply peel off, which will lead to a decrease in the overall productivity of your preparations.
Planting juniper cuttings at home
Juniper should be planted in the fall and winter months. However knowledgeable people It is recommended to plant plants from mid-September to the last ten days of November. During this period, the stomata of plants close due to the increased degree of air humidity, as a result, practically no evaporation of water occurs, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the tree and the reproduction process. In spring and summer, it is strictly not recommended to plant juniper. This is due to damage to the root system, which is caused by increased evaporation and physiological drought observed in coniferous plants in the warm season. However, the question about optimal timing Planting juniper trees is quite controversial. Many gardeners claim that the time from the first days of April to the end of May is ideal for organizing the propagation of juniper by cuttings, since this period is the peak of its growth and development in the fall.
When determining planting dates, you should also pay attention to climatic conditions. In order for the rooting of juniper cuttings to be successful, the air temperature should be from +5 to +25 degrees. Higher or lower heat levels can have an adverse effect on the plant's reproduction process and lead to its death.
Caring for juniper at home
Fertilizer for juniper
Some types of juniper require additional fertilizer, so for Virginia juniper you can add half a bucket of compost. For Cossack juniper, it would be nice to add 0.3 kg of dolomite flour. All these procedures are carried out in advance, since after 2 weeks the soil in the hole will have time to compact and the seedling will be able to fit there.
After planting, the root collar of the plant should be 7-10 cm above ground level, again, due to the fact that the earth will still settle. After which the bush is watered, and when the water is completely absorbed, it is worth mulching the area around the trunk, this will protect the soil from drying out.
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Watering juniper
During the period of active growth, it will be sufficient to water the plant only during periods of extreme heat or prolonged absence of rain. One adult bush requires 10-15 liters of water.
It will be an additional advantage if daily spraying is carried out in the evening after a stuffy day. The plant will thank you for this bright colors pine needles 
Juniper pruning
Pruning is carried out when there is a desire to give the juniper an unusual shape. You can also prune if dry branches or deformed areas appear on the plant.
Reproduction of juniper by layering
If you are interested in creeping types of juniper, use propagation by layering. Young branches can be cut throughout the growing season; their rooting occurs faster than the rooting of woody shoots. 
Layers are dug in and pinned near the old bush. The day before, river sand and peat are brought into the planting site and it is dug up so that the soil is light and loose. The cuttings are lightly hilled up and watered regularly, but they should not be flooded; excess moisture can cause root rot of the old bush and the death of the cutting from soaking. 
After six months or a year, when the cuttings have taken root, they can be transplanted to the place where you plan to grow a new bush.
Propagation of juniper by layering is most often used in relation to creeping forms culture. The procedure can be carried out throughout the growing season.
The procedure for this is as follows:
- The soil around the mother bush is intensively loosened, peat and river sand are added and watered abundantly.
- The lower part (20-25 cm) of healthy, recently ripened shoots, which are best suited for propagation, is cleared of needles.
- The bare area is pressed to the soil surface and secured with a wire pin.
- The part of the shoot in contact with the soil is sprinkled with peat-sand substrate.
Rooting of the cuttings will take about 6-8 months. During this time, it should be regularly watered and covered with moist soil. With the appearance of young growth on the cuttings, the shoot can be separated from the mother bush and planted as an independent plant.
Juniper pests
Juniper aphids appear on young shoots. Aphids, when multiplying en masse, can cause harm to young plants, since by sucking out the sap, they greatly inhibit and weaken the plant, retard growth, and cause curvature and twisting of damaged shoots.
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On young cones and needles you can see the rounded scutes of females and elongated scutes of males (up to 1-1.5 mm) of the juniper scale insect. In early June, larvae appear and attach themselves to the needles. The needles dry out and fall off, and young plants may die. By sucking sap from bark tissue, the larvae cause damage, leading to the death of the bark, drying out and bending of shoots, and a decrease in annual growth. It affects juniper, thuja, yew, and cypress.
Small mosquitoes, no more than 2.2 mm, fly near plants, then their larvae appear - spindle-shaped and covered with warts, up to 4 mm long, bright yellow, orange, or red. These are gall midges on juniper. The larvae secrete specific growth substances onto the needles, under the influence of which the plant cells begin to rapidly grow and divide, turning into galls. The larvae live and overwinter in them.
The needles are entangled in a thin, sparse web, covered with yellowish spots, later turning brown and crumbling. Spruce spider mite and its larvae damage young plants: juniper, biota, prickly spruce, Canadian spruce, common spruce, and western thuja. Over the summer, the female gives 3–4 generations. Greatest harm In hot years, the mite attacks trees growing on dry soils. During the growing season, mites form from four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases towards the end of summer.
Hello, dear gardeners!
Let's take a closer look at the main methods of propagating juniper on the site.
Juniper propagates by cuttings and seeds, just like thuja. But bush multi-stemmed forms of self-rooted junipers allow the division of the bush, though only at an early age.
The easiest way is the seed method
Seeds are sown in late summer - early autumn, immediately after they are collected from the berries that have begun to ripen. For fleshy cones, the shell must first be removed. The germination time of seeds is very long, about 12-13 months, so they are not sown directly into the ground.
Sowing is done in bowls filled with soil and having holes at the bottom to drain excess water (or in boxes lined with film, with holes made in the bottom of the film). Bowls (or boxes) are buried in the soil, so that the edge of the bowl is slightly higher level soil, and after snow falls, they throw it on the planting site. In the spring, containers are brought into a greenhouse or room for seed germination.
When propagating from seeds, splitting always occurs in the offspring, which is immediately visible upon germination by the color of the needles, so they select seedlings and plant those selected immediately in place without any schools for growing. But in this way it is impossible to determine the shape of the future crown, so the seedlings will first have to be planted in pots with drainage hole at the bottom, and bury it in the soil at sunny place for growing for another couple of years, but no more, because junipers do not tolerate transplantation well (except for creeping forms) at the age of over three years.
Method of propagating juniper by cuttings
Garden forms must be propagated by cuttings to preserve varietal characteristics plants (crown shape, needle color). This is the most productive, but also the most labor-intensive method of reproduction.
When cuttings in the spring (early May), last year's woody shoots are used. When cuttings are taken in summer (early July) - semi-lignified shoots of this year. For cuttings, take vertically growing shoots from plants with a vertical crown shape and thin lateral branches for a bush-shaped crown.
1. You need to prepare a fairly deep container with a drainage hole at the bottom and fill it with a damp mixture of peat and sand (3:1), then bury it in the soil in partial shade.
2. Taking the cutting by its base near the trunk, with a sharp upward movement, then downward, we tear off the cutting with the “heel” (a piece of bark).
3. We cut off the branches from the lower third of the cutting, which helps better education roots, the needles on the cuttings do not rot, which otherwise end up in the soil with the branches. The wounds quickly heal with secreted resin.
4. We leave the needles on the upper branches, as they contribute to better aeration of the cutting.
5. We plant the cuttings vertically into the hole made, quite densely according to a pattern of 5 by 10 centimeters.
6. Cover the plantings with 2-3 layers of lutrasil hung on the arcs. It is not advisable to plant under film, because there is poor ventilation under it and in summer it can rise heat(at temperatures above 25 degrees the cuttings will die!).
7. It is necessary to monitor the humidity and temperature in the cuttings. The optimal temperature in spring before buds break is 15-18 degrees Celsius, and in summer after buds break 20 degrees. In spring, at low temperatures, the cuttings can be additionally covered with film. The soil should always be moist to the touch.
8. Twice a day you need to open the cuttings and spray the cuttings with water. Once a week you need to add Zircon to the water (2 drops per 1 liter). The prepared solution cannot stand for more than 2 hours, so do not prepare it for future use.
All coniferous plants that allow cuttings are cut in the same way.
Creeping forms of juniper are propagated by layering
The horizontal shoots closest to the soil are placed in shallow grooves in early spring (April), after slightly scratching the bark on the lower part of the shoots. Layers should be pinned to the soil with wooden slingshots. Sprinkle with wet peat. The ends of the layers must be tied vertically to the peg.
Now all that remains is to monitor the humidity of the burial site. To make things easier for yourself, you can cover this place with a piece of film that needs to be secured. But it’s easier and better to use well-moistened sphagnum moss for this (for example, from a cranberry bog).
An important point is the gradual pruning of the place where the cuttings join the mother plant throughout the entire rooting period.
The method of propagating juniper by dividing the bush
By dividing the juniper bush, it can only be propagated at a young age. In the first ten days of May, the bush must be heavily hilled in order to cover the lower parts of the branches for the formation of adventitious roots. In summer, you need to keep the soil from drying out.
In August, the bush should be dug up, the rooted branches should be separated from the mother plant and planted in containers whose volume is slightly larger than the root ball. The containers must have a drainage hole to drain excess water (remember, junipers do not tolerate waterlogged soil). Best on winter time dig them into the soil for overwintering in a sunny place. For the winter, cover with a small layer of spruce branches. Next spring, carefully replant it in place without damaging the root ball.
Before planting, it is useful to keep junipers for 24 hours in a solution of any root former, in particular “”, and in the first year of planting systematically (about 2 times a month) spray with “Zircon”. Let me remind you that ordinary honey is also a good root former; to do this, it is enough to dilute just one teaspoon of honey in a glass of water.
Like these ones ways to propagate juniper can be used. Remember that conifers take root slowly and for a long time! See you!
