In most modern domestic houses, the walls do not protect against moisture. It is believed that traditional surface covering with ceramic tiles or a cheap analogue - painting is sufficient. oil paint. How to waterproof walls and whether it is really needed in the bathroom, whether money is being wasted - this is what our article is about.
Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate the floor in order to prevent moisture from entering the building structures and, as a result, to the neighbors living below. About the walls building codes are silent. However, we recommend doing so. In areas where water flows will fall directly on the wall, we strongly recommend that the walls be properly waterproofed. These are places behind the bathtub and shower stall, if it does not have sealed rear walls.
Bathroom areas that need waterproofing
In most cases, there is no need to specially protect walls from water that remain dry or those where only occasional splashes will reach (for example, behind a washbasin). It is enough to tile and paint waterproof paint and even apply waterproof wallpaper with the appropriate adhesive. But this is provided that the walls and partitions are built from materials that are resistant to moisture: concrete, brick, effective wall blocks. There is one more condition - good ventilation. If your bathroom is small enough and the ventilation is poor, then not only drops of water, but also steam will settle on the walls and ceiling. As a result, this will lead to the formation of fungus and, at a minimum, damage to everything in the bathroom.
The main purpose of plaster mixtures is to prepare the base for finishing, that is, to rough level and harden the surface. But there are also plasters that, in addition to their main functions, perform other tasks: increase heat and sound insulation, protect against harmful radiation, give the base fire-resistant properties, and so on. They are called special-purpose formulations, and are used taking into account the functional characteristics of these solutions.
Waterproofing plaster
Special types also include waterproofing plaster, which is used for finishing surfaces exposed to increased moisture. First of all, these are foundations, ground floors, basements, and outer walls of houses located in damp areas.
Waterproofing plaster on the basement of a house
How does this plaster differ from ordinary plaster, and how should it be applied correctly?
Waterproofing mixtures form a dense, hard coating that prevents moisture from penetrating into the thickness of the walls or foundation. They are applied manually and by machine and are used both outdoors and indoors. Depending on the composition of the components, waterproofing plasters are divided into 2 types:
- cement-sand;
- asphalt.
The first type is more common and is widely used in private construction. Cement-sand You can make plasters yourself, and the process of applying them is almost no different from conventional plastering.
Working with cement-sand plaster
To prepare the solution, cement grade M400 and higher is used, and the filler is fine quartz sand, stone flour, finely ground coal, and bitumen additives. To increase water resistance, liquid glass, ceresite, sodium aluminate and other water repellents are added to the solution.
The ratio of binder and filler is usually 1:2, less often 1:3. For maximum efficiency, the coating thickness should be 25 mm, provided that the plaster is applied from the water pressure side. Application is carried out in several layers, the minimum thickness is 3 mm. This type of waterproofing has many advantages:
- high reliability even with prolonged flooding of the foundation and walls of the house;
- resistance to repeated freezing;
- environmental safety - can be finished with plaster composition internal surfaces drinking water tanks;
- plaster serves as an excellent base for painting and cladding;
- has good adhesion;
- low cost of the solution;
- resistance to mechanical damage.
Applied plaster
In order for the coating to be of high quality and durable, it can only be applied to a carefully prepared base. In addition, the surface must be strong and not prone to shrinkage, otherwise the plaster will become covered with cracks. For work, it is preferable to choose factory mixtures with clearly defined proportions of components. They are available in dry form, and to prepare the solution it is enough to mix the powder with water in the required ratio.
Plaster waterproofing
Asphalt plaster used primarily in industrial facilities. Its cost is quite high, and special equipment is required for application, so in private construction the use of such waterproofing is not always justified. The plaster contains petroleum bitumen, asbestos dust, sand and mineral fillers in powder form.
There are two ways to apply asphalt plaster - cold and hot. The cold solution is applied manually or by machine, and it is much easier to work with. The second method involves heating the solution to 180 degrees and applying it using special equipment. In this case, the waterproofing is as reliable and durable as possible.
Popular brands of cement-sand plaster for waterproofing
| The mixture forms a hard, waterproof coating with good vapor permeability. It has excellent frost resistance (up to 200 cycles), resistance to alkali and salt exposure. Designed for waterproofing external and internal vertical surfaces that are not prone to deformation and shrinkage, and are not subject to vibration. It is used for finishing buried structures, water tanks, swimming pools, and for filling voids in old brickwork. Available in the form of dry powder, packaged in 5 and 25 kg | |
|
Ceresit CR 66 / CR 166 |
Elastic mixture on a cement-polymer basis. Designed for deformable and shrinkage-prone substrates. Suitable for all mineral surfaces that do not contain gypsum. Used to protect buried structures, walls and foundations of houses located on the shores of reservoirs, finishing swimming pools and tanks for household purposes. The composition has increased resistance to chemically aggressive substances - alkalis, acids, acetone, hydraulic oil and others. Standard packaging contains a canister of emulsion (10 l) and a bag of dry plaster mixture (25 kg) |
|
Barralastik |
Two-component elastic mixture of deep penetration. Designed for waterproofing all types of surfaces, including those subject to vibrations and shrinkage deformations. It has very high adhesion, after drying it forms an absolutely waterproof coating, but with vapor permeability. The solution has good plasticity and is easy to apply with a brush or spatula. The standard kit includes a bag of dry mixture (25 kg) and a canister of emulsion (5 l) |
|
Penetron |
A cement mixture with active additives intended for waterproofing concrete surfaces. The solution penetrates 40-50 cm into the concrete, completely closing the pores of the material, resulting in the surface becoming completely moisture-proof. The composition is used for finishing foundations and plinths, basements, cellars, wells, and swimming pools. When applied to brick or masonry, wood, foam concrete and other materials, the waterproofing effect of the coating is absent. The composition is environmentally safe, frost-resistant, resistant to alkalis and acids. Packaged in plastic buckets with a capacity of 5, 10, 25 kg |
| Dry cement mixture penetrating type for concrete foundations. It is a more budget-friendly analogue of Penetron, which is why it is in good demand. Apply with a brush or spray in two layers. It is resistant to chemically aggressive substances and temperature changes. Packaged in plastic buckets of 10 and 25 kg |
The average consumption of ordinary waterproofing plaster is 1.5 kg per m2 when applied in a single layer. The consumption of penetrating compounds is less - about 0.4-0.6 kg/m2. Of course, this indicator directly depends on the quality of the surface, the method of application and the thickness of the layers, so before purchasing the material you should carefully calculate everything and add 10-15% of the calculated amount of the mixture in reserve.
Ceresit CR 166. Elastic waterproofing mass
Conditions for applying plaster
Waterproofing plaster solutions cannot be applied to crumbling, loose substrates, coatings containing gypsum, as well as surfaces with efflorescence, traces of bitumen, paint, or oil stains. All this reduces adhesion, which means the plaster will not last long. It is also unacceptable to plaster bases with cracks whose width exceeds 0.5 mm.
Such a wall cannot be plastered without prior repairs.
To properly prepare the surface, you need to completely remove layers of paint, old plaster or putty. If the paint is difficult to remove, it is advisable to soften it by heating it with a hairdryer or special chemical removers. After this, it can be easily removed with a spatula. Plaster and putty are cleaned with a metal brush; you can also use a grinder with an attachment. Sandblasting gives excellent results.
Check the brick for its hardness
Use a chisel or chisel, as well as a hammer, to dismantle old plaster
After removing the old plaster, use a wire brush to remove any remaining plaster particles.
The seams of brick and stone masonry must be cleaned with a wire brush and removed from dust. If the masonry is old and the seams are crumbling, they are cleaned to a solid base and then filled with fresh cement mortar. Before sealing, cracks must be opened to a depth of 1-2 cm and cleaned of dust.
Sealing cracks
Repaired crack
When finishing surfaces with a heterogeneous structure (concrete and brick, brick and stone), the base is first plastered with a regular cement-sand mixture.
Like regular plaster, the waterproofing layer needs reinforcement if its thickness exceeds 10 mm. When plastering rough masonry or a surface with numerous defects, when the solution is applied in a thick layer, a galvanized metal mesh with cells from 10x10 mm to 20x20 mm is used for reinforcement.
Plaster mesh
It is fixed to the base using plastic dowels and screws with a fastening pitch of 40-50 cm.
Attachment to brickwork using a self-tapping screw with a wide washer
Should be used on a flat surface fiberglass mesh, provided that the layer thickness does not exceed 30 mm.
In the photo - installation of reinforcing mesh on the facade of the house
At least 3 months must pass between the construction of the masonry and its waterproofing. This also applies to concrete foundations. If preliminary leveling is carried out with ordinary cement mortar, waterproofing plaster can be applied no earlier than after 28 days. Plastering should be done in dry, windless weather, at a temperature not lower than +5 and not higher than +30 degrees. Optimal humidity air – 60%. Moreover, such conditions must be observed not only during the period of applying plaster, but also for several days after completion of the work.
Plaster application technology
Plastering is done manually or by machine. The first option is much more practical, since it does not require equipment and the solution consumption is less. True, it takes more time to work, and the reliability of adhesion to the base is slightly lower. The mechanical method allows you to do everything much faster and without much physical effort; moreover, with this application, the solution adheres very firmly to the surface, and the coating acquires high strength. The disadvantages include high consumption of the working mixture and the need for a special installation.
Advantages of machine application of plaster
Manual application method
To work you will need:
- kneading container;
- construction mixer;
- metal spatula;
- paint brush with semi-rigid bristles;
- pure water.
Plastering tools
Step 1. The prepared surface is slightly moistened with water using a wide brush. The base should be moist, but not wet, especially since puddles are not allowed on horizontal planes.
You can wet the surface with a brush, dipping it in water and splashing it on the wall.
Step 2. Pour into the container clean water room temperature, add the dry mixture and stir with a mixer at a speed of 400-800 rpm for 3 minutes. The proportions of water and dry mixture are indicated on the packaging. If it is a two-component composition, first pour the emulsion into the container, add water (if indicated in the instructions), stir and only then add the dry ingredients. For the first layer, the solution is made more liquid: on average, take 1 part water for 2.5 parts of the dry mixture. After mixing, leave the solution for 5 minutes to mature, then mix again with a mixer.
Mixing the solution
Consistency of the solution
Step 3. The first layer is applied with a brush, making movements in one direction. The solution is taken little by little, thoroughly rubbed over the surface, focusing Special attention joints. Make sure that the layer remains uniform over the entire area, avoid the formation of sagging and drips. It is not recommended to return to already treated areas to correct something; this violates the integrity of the layer and reduces the adhesion of the material to the base.
Application of waterproofing plaster
Step 4. After completing the application of the plaster, you must wait until it begins to harden. After this, prepare the next portion of the solution, but this time add less water: approximately 1 part water to 3 parts dry mixture.
Step 5. It is better to use a spatula to apply the second layer. Take the solution in small portions and evenly distribute it over the base in a thin layer from bottom to top, holding the spatula at an angle to the surface. Movements with a spatula must be performed in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the brush. That is, if you applied the first layer with vertical movements, then the second should be applied horizontally. If a third layer is necessary, this rule must also be followed.
Application plaster mortar on the wall
Step 6. The plastered surface must be protected from drying out, mechanical stress, and direct sunlight. If the weather is too warm, the plaster must be periodically moistened with water using a sprayer. After 7 days, when the coating is sufficiently strong, the plaster is grouted. To do this, make a liquid solution, spread it in a thin layer on the surface and smooth it in a circular motion using a polyurethane or metal grater.
Plaster application technology
Grouting walls after plastering
Immediately after plastering, the coating cannot be rubbed down, as this will disrupt its density and adhesion to the base. Finishing work can be continued after 3-7 days, depending on the composition of the plaster. For example, a Barralastik coating can be tiled within 20 hours after applying the last layer, for Ceresit CR 65 it takes 3 days, for Penetron - from 7 to 14 days.
Mechanical method of application
Mechanical application, or shotcrete, is carried out using a special installation with a compressor and nozzle. Gladkoe concrete base Before shotcreting, they are sandblasted or small notches are made manually over the entire area.
Sandblasting works
On bases with a rough, uneven surface, a reinforcing mesh made of galvanized metal is pre-fixed.
Methods for installing reinforcing mesh
Step 1. The working surface is slightly moistened.
Moisturize the wall
Water is poured into the installation container and the dry mixture is poured in the proportions specified by the manufacturer. Set the pressure within 0.25...0.3 mPa, check the supply of the solution on a separate section of the wall. If the mixture begins to float or slide down, it means that there is excess water in the solution, and dry components should be added, but if dry spots form on the plaster layer, you need to add water.
Step 2. To apply the solution evenly, hold the nozzle perpendicular to the wall at a distance of 80-100 cm from the surface, slowly moving it in a circular motion. The thickness of one layer should be within 7-10 mm. Having completed the work, the plaster is covered with plastic film to protect it from drying out.
Applying plaster by machine
Aligning the first layer
Advice. If you need to take a forced break in work, the edge of the plaster on the already treated area is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and scratched with a metal brush over the fresh mortar. After resuming the work process, the cut area must be moistened generously with water.
Step 3. The next layer is applied one day after the first, and the same interval is maintained before applying the third layer. The total thickness of the coating should not exceed 50 mm.
Applying and leveling the second layer
Step 4. After the plaster has hardened, a liquid solution is prepared, manually applied to the coating and grouted with a metal or polyurethane float. Next, cover the surface with polyethylene or periodically moisten it with water to avoid cracking.
For 7 days, the plaster must be protected from freezing, direct sunlight, and mechanical stress. If everything is done correctly, the coating after drying has an even color, a smooth hard surface, and makes ringing sounds when tapped with a wooden hammer.
Video - Robot plasterer PlasteRUS SPERO
Video - Waterproofing plaster
There is a concrete ground floor (with windows, semi-basement). Where the wall comes into contact with the ground, white spots appear (like frost, apparently fungus or efflorescence), and dark spots (moisture). We cleaned the metal. brush and coat with Pufas anti-mold solution.
The walls are all uneven, the sea waves sometimes move forward 3 cm, sometimes they go inward 3 cm. This is how our little brothers made plaster for us!
Now you need to waterproof and level the walls for the tiles.
Please advise how to level out such differences. Some recommend using Rotbant (but plaster, and it’s humid here), some using a cement-sand mixture, and some using plasterboard (which will reduce the area).
And which is better - first waterproofing or first final plaster, and then waterproofing.
Does anyone have experience with waterproofing? Three years ago we waterproofed it with a mixture of HYDROTEX, there was no effect and the layer gradually fell off.
A bathroom without reliable waterproofing can easily be considered the most expensive area of the apartment: very often you have to do cosmetic repairs, any break in the water supply system also leads to paying for repairs to the apartment of the neighbors below. These costs can be minimized only if you waterproof the walls and floor of the bathroom. For specialists, such an operation is not difficult. But it’s also not difficult to do it yourself, you just need to be patient and have the necessary materials.
Tools and materials
Before doing waterproofing, you need to acquire the following materials and tools:
- waterproofing material (bitumen, bitumen-polymer or cement-polymer composition);
- construction hair dryer;
- reinforcing mesh;
- plaster;
- Decoration Materials;
- silicone;
- putty knife;
- building level.
Scheme of waterproofing walls in the bathroom.
Waterproofing a bathroom should begin by ensuring good ventilation in order to further avoid the influence of excess moisture on the surface. A built-in hood or direct access to the building’s ventilation shaft will provide a good microclimate in the bathroom and protect the room from fungal aggression. Direct waterproofing in the bathroom should be carried out from top to bottom.
15.05.2008, 21:45
There is a concrete ground floor (with windows, semi-basement). Where the wall comes into contact with the ground, white spots appear (like frost, apparently fungus or efflorescence), and dark spots (moisture). We cleaned the metal. brush and coat with Pufas anti-mold solution.
The walls are all uneven, the sea waves sometimes move forward 3 cm, sometimes they go inward 3 cm. This is how our little brothers made plaster for us!
Now you need to waterproof and level the walls for the tiles.
Please advise how to level out such differences. Some recommend using Rotbant (but plaster, and it’s humid here), some using a cement-sand mixture, and some using plasterboard (which will reduce the area).
And what is better - first waterproofing or first final plaster, and then waterproofing.
Does anyone have experience with waterproofing? Three years ago we waterproofed it with a mixture of HYDROTEX, there was no effect and the layer gradually fell off.
21.05.2008, 16:32
It is best to waterproof the outside of the house. Dig it up, coat it, dry it, cover it with extruded polystyrene foam and bury it. It will be warm and dry in the basement. :D
21.05.2008, 19:33
Agree. The problem is that they also waterproofed the outside with HYDROTEX, but the result was zero. In addition, there is a blind area around the house that is quite wide, up to 3 m. In this case, it will have to be destroyed.
So far we have started doing waterproofing inside with a two-component component GIDROLAST. Then we placed the beacons under the plaster, and after the plaster we will coat it again with waterproofing, just in case.
My concern is: the layer of plaster will in some places reach 5-7 cm. Will it fall off over time? It's on the walls.
There is a special song about the ceiling. There are also differences of up to 5 cm. To keep everything in place and not fall on your head, we decided to do this: beacons, cement plaster, mesh, Fugenfühler, Vetonit VH putty.
Can any of the plasterers advise whether this is the right decision?
AnatolyK
22.05.2008, 16:08
The best waterproofing is rolled - you have already seen the effectiveness of tacks, now it’s the turn of the fin. For thick plaster: it is advisable to apply it to a reinforcing mesh screwed to the wall, even if it peels off in some place, it will stick to the mesh. Look in stores for a hardening accelerator for concrete; it will work faster because you have to wait for the previous layer to set. Expanded mesh will also work on the walls, but welded mesh is better for the ceiling - it will be more reliable
---- first the grid then the rest.
23.05.2008, 11:34
What can be the thickness of the plaster layer (not overall, but layer by layer)? I guess I should have several layers per 5 cm and each one should set before applying the next one?
They also recommended that I use a strengthening primer before plastering the ceiling.
AnatolyK
23.05.2008, 22:37
The thickness of the layer depends more on the skill of the plasterer - it will be determined by eye that he will throw the mortar again and the entire layer will slide off. it roughly looks like this: throw a medium-thick mortar over the entire wall with a ladle - you get an uneven surface, remove the excess mortar in thin places along the beacons and wait for it to set. 5cm - 3-4 times, approximately a layer in the morning, a second in the evening, a third for grouting.
Strengthening primer before plastering the ceiling.
I’m not very good with the latest technologies and materials: D (Soviet training), so on the forum I try to glean something useful from modern materials (it’s better to learn from the mistakes of others), if this is just another impregnation, then write the name - maybe someone has used it.
23.05.2008, 23:00
It’s clear, now all that’s left is to find plasterers. The teams living in St. Petersburg are looking for large volumes, but I have 60 meters of plaster and 150 meters of screeds. I can’t lure anyone to the site!
AnatolyK
24.05.2008, 12:45
The volume is only suitable for “repair work” and you need to look for them. For those for whom construction is their “main bread,” of course, a small project is certainly not profitable. As a part-time job, just give me these, less volume, higher cost per sq.m.
24.05.2008, 19:10
Yes, it’s a pity that you are far from St. Petersburg.
28.05.2008, 22:13
I brought a plasterer to my site. At the base, they advised us to use KNAUF-UNTERPUTS plaster cement mixture for ceilings in damp rooms, which is also used for building facades. Have taken. Today the plasterer calls and is almost crying, saying he sprayed four bags and everything fell on the floor! It turns out that the base did not warn that before UNTERPUTTS it is necessary to apply another mixture of VP 332 of the same KNAUF! We lost more than 2,000 rubles from this experience.
It seems that we should settle on gypsum ROTBANT, which at first they did not want to do because of the humidity of the room. Everyone seems to be praising this mixture.
AnatolyK
28.05.2008, 22:41
and everything fell to the floor. He immediately collected it and put it back on the ceiling in a thinner layer. Gypsum can be made more or less moisture resistant, but in our country where all the mixtures are prepared in one concrete mixer: cry:, and super technology 2e is not possible until you buy 1e. :D
28.05.2008, 22:46
But in general, a concrete ceiling can be plastered the old fashioned way: cement, sand, plastering, for example?
AnatolyK
29.05.2008, 12:34
So I wrote about “Soviet hardening”, i.e. you yourself compose what you need for a given place, using additives - which you know, or which you find. Buying ready-made dry mixtures simply turns out to be more expensive and you have to overpay only for the promoted name. That’s why I mentioned the hardening accelerator: cement-sand 1-3 (4) and the addition of a bit of plasticizer to the cement. Gartsovka is a simple lime-sand solution that has been used since ancient times for interior plastering of walls and ceilings, and for masonry. But before, the lime was kept in a pit for three years, so the quality was different. For the basement, it is better to add cement, or ask for quick-setting ready-made for wet areas.
If the worker has not found where to use the solution, then take off the last of his pants, shame on the jungle.
29.05.2008, 15:33
Today I called the KNAUF company (manufacturer of UNTERPUTS cement plaster). I say, so and so, your product falls from the ceiling and does not dry for a day. They thought for a long time, then they made a verdict: that my room was poorly ventilated and therefore the solution did not dry, and secondly, that we used soil not produced by them, but by the PLITONIT company.
We decided to try ROTBANT on the ceilings (although KNAUFT technologists discouraged it, saying it would only last a year in a damp room), and on the walls cement-sand and plasticizer. Let's see what happens.
02.06.2008, 22:20
I came from the village. In general, it turned out fine on the walls. The ceilings haven't been done yet.
We decided to use a prance. We make the solution like this: 1 tsp cement + 2 tsp. prancing + 2 hours of sand. I refused the plasticizer because... it is for faster drying of the solution, and the solution is stronger when it dries for a long time. It even seems like it needs to be moistened.
Here’s the question: in the next room, to prepare previously plastered (smooth) walls for additional plastering (the walls themselves were plastered about three years ago, but not leveled), what needs to be done?
1. Do I need to coat it with a primer? And which one is better?
2. Place a thin metal grid? Will there be air cushions underneath?
3. Make notches?
AnatolyK
02.06.2008, 22:55
previously plastered (smooth) walls, depending on how much you need to level:?:, maybe just putty will be enough. If you need a layer of plaster, then cut it with a grinder every 5-10 centimeters with a diamond.
For those who are familiar with this chemistry, we don’t use a primer; for me, the primer is the first layer of the solution: oops:
02.06.2008, 22:58
It is necessary to level in places up to 7 cm. Horror, of course, but it is necessary under the tiles. And if you install a mesh, maybe the notches are not needed then?
My plasterer doesn't want to work with an angle grinder.
AnatolyK
03.06.2008, 07:25
wow, amazingly smooth wall - 7cm brick thickness per edge. It is necessary to make some kind of notch, the solution will be held in it “as if with your fingers”, and the mesh, of course, will also be stronger. The wall is simply leveled under the tiles.
03.06.2008, 13:11
Yes, in some places you will have to put bricks on the corners.
What’s worse is that there are still places where the old plaster is crumbling. They will beat it off, of course, but they may not notice something and cover it with a new one along the weak foundation...
Special waterproofing plaster is used in the construction of buildings to protect risk areas from moisture. When constructing a private house, the protective composition is used to treat basements, attics and foundations. In damp climates, hydroplaster is used to cover the outer walls of multi-story buildings and basement floors. The waterproofing mixture is used separately or in combination with insulation. For application, manual or machine methods are used. After hardening and hardening, the waterproofing mixture forms a coating of high hardness. Moisture does not penetrate into the structure of a foundation or wall with a dense waterproof coating.
The waterproofing solution is prepared from M400 cement with fillers (bitumen, coal powder, fine-grained quartz sand, stone flour). To enhance water resistance, the plaster composition is supplemented with water repellents such as sodium aluminate, ceresite, liquid glass and other components.
The filler and binder in the dry composition are mixed in proportions of 2:1 or 3:1. For waterproofing, two types of plasters are used: asphalt and cement-sand. The second type is widespread in private housing construction; such mixtures are easily made independently.
Waterproofing plaster: brands and manufacturers
IN construction stores There is a wide range of ready-made waterproofing materials available. The mixtures are sold in 25 kg multilayer kraft paper bags, 25 kg polyethylene bags, 20 kg buckets, 15 kg bags, complete with a 3 liter canister of emulsion. In terms of price, properties and universal purpose, the following brands stand out favorably:
Consolit 540;
Hydrolast;
Osmoflex;
Covercol;
Dichtugsschlemme.
Magma– cement mixture with mineral additives for underground passages, elevator shafts, showers, swimming pools, basements and foundations. It is applied to brick, concrete, cement-sand, reinforced concrete bases and provides rigid waterproofing. This plaster is not suitable for surfaces made of wood, asbestos cement and gypsum, with cracks and salt deposits, or for painted walls.
The mixture cannot be used if the surface:
- deformed under the influence of changes in high and low temperatures or shrinkage;
- experiences high mechanical loads;
- covered with fresh concrete (less than 3 months).
Also, the composition is not suitable for coating cement screeds with a curing period of less than 28 days.
Consolit 540– hydro plaster for saunas, basements, laundries, swimming pools (walls and ceilings), foundations. The mixture has high strength, corrosion resistance, and reinforcing properties building structures. The composition contains a protective modifier against microcracks. Plaster is effective in restoration work.
Hydrolast– a cement-polymer mixture for applying a thin-layer coating, used on surfaces exposed to a column of water up to three meters. Properties: vapor permeability, elasticity, frost resistance, high adhesion. Upon contact with a mineral base, it forms general crystalline structures.
Barralastic(pictured below) is a two-component dry mixture for coating wood, metal, brick and concrete. Plaster waterproofing is highly breathable, resistant to alkalis, petroleum products and acids, environmentally friendly and non-toxic (this is confirmed by an environmental certificate). The composition is suitable for treating food water supply systems. Advantages - elasticity, resistance to frost, vibration, movement and temperature changes, pull-off pressure of 4 atm. and pressure 9 atm.
Bauta– a mixture of elastic structure for external and internal use. The material is used for arranging self-leveling floors, waterproofing cement plasters and concrete masonry. The composition is effective under conditions of water pressure up to 5 m.
Osmoflex– plastic composition with butadiene-styrene resins for flexible connections between walls and pipes, ceilings and floors, for structures with dynamic loads and vibrations. It has high adhesion, resistance to frost, exposure to sulfides, chlorides, oxides of sulfur and carbon.
Coverkol– a universal waterproofing-adhesive mixture of two components: a binder and an acrylic elastomer. The material is used for waterproofing and gluing cladding (mosaics, stone, tiles) in rooms with high humidity. The carpet is designed for waterproofing walls and floors in the bathroom, shower, swimming pool, resistant to aggressive substances, low temperatures. A distinctive feature is high adhesion.
Dichtugsschlemme– a cement-mineral based mixture for application on the water pressure side in a layer of up to 4.5 mm. Manufacturer: Knauf TIGES.
How is plastering waterproofing of walls carried out?
The waterproofing layer on the water pressure side is applied with a thickness of 25 mm. This provides effective protection during prolonged exposure to water on walls and foundations. The coating is stable during periods of spring flooding and can withstand winter freezing of the soil. Drinking water tanks are coated with environmentally friendly compounds, and special adhesives are used as a base for cladding and painting. Processing technology – application of material in several layers with a thickness of 3 mm.
Important! Do not apply the solution to loose and crumbling masonry, plaster surfaces, or walls prone to shrinkage. If cracks more than 0.5 cm wide or salt deposits have formed on the base, plastering cannot be done. Choose high-quality mixtures of proven brands, strictly observe the proportions, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Waterproofing plasters are applied to carefully prepared substrates. Preparation includes three mandatory stages:
Remove old putty, plaster and paint. Use a grinder with an attachment or a wire brush, hammer, chisel or chisel. If you have difficulty removing the paint, soften the coating with a chemical or by heating it with a special hairdryer. To obtain a clean and even surface on large area use a sandblaster.
Sand the joints in stone or brickwork to a solid surface. Treat deep recesses in old walls with leaking seams with a wire brush, remove dust, and fill with cement mortar. Clean the cracks from dust, open them one or two centimeters and putty.
Reinforce the surface if the thickness of the waterproofing layer exceeds 1 cm. Thick layers are applied to damaged bases and rough masonry. Use galvanized metal mesh with a mesh size of ten by ten or twenty by twenty millimeters. Secure the network with self-tapping screws with wide washers. If you apply a layer of waterproofing thinner than 30 mm on a flat base, use fiberglass reinforcing mesh.
Important! On walls made of dissimilar materials (brick+concrete, brick+stone), cement-sand is first applied plaster mixture, and then the plastered wall is waterproofed. 28 days must pass between these stages. Fresh masonry can be processed no earlier than after 3 months. Temperature and humidity conditions: from +5 to +30 degrees, 60% humidity, dry, windless weather.
After preparation, apply the plaster by hand or machine. Manual waterproofing is a lengthy process, but economical in terms of mixture consumption. Machine plastering is a quick method that guarantees strong adhesion of the mortar to the surface. But mechanical application consumes more solution and requires the use of special equipment.
Manual waterproofing of plastered walls
Instructions for applying waterproofing plaster with your own hands:
Lightly moisten the finished cleaned surface with water. To do this, use a wide brush. Make sure that the wall is damp, but not too wet, and that puddles do not form on the floor.
Pour water into a bucket, add the dry mixture, stir with a mixer for three minutes at 400-800 rpm. The volumes and ratio of water and dry matter are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging. Two-component formulations are diluted in stages: first, water is added to the emulsion, then the dry substance.
Apply the first layer of waterproofing (semi-liquid, in a ratio of 2:1). Apply the solution with a brush using movements in one direction, thoroughly rubbing the mixture over the surface. For one application, take a little solution, carefully coat the seams and joints, smooth out drips and sagging. Do not return to the treated fragments for corrections: this will lead to reduced adhesion and destruction of the integral structure of the insulating layer.
Wait until hardening begins, prepare a second batch (thicker, in a ratio of 3:1). Apply the second layer with a spatula using upward movements. Hold the tool at an angle, make the layer thin and even. The direction of movement is perpendicular to the movements of the brush when applying the first layer. Apply the third layer in the same order, again observing the perpendicularity condition.
Expect complete hardening within a week. In hot weather, periodically moisten the plaster with a spray bottle to protect it from sunlight and drying out.
After 7 days, grout with a liquid solution: pour onto the surface and smooth with circular movements. Use a metal or polyurethane grater.
Important! If you had to stop and postpone work on applying waterproofing for a while, decorate the edge with a cut corner of 45 degrees. Scratch the oblique cut with a wire brush. When work resumes, wet the area with water and wait a day before applying the next coat.
Video
The video in this article clearly shows how to apply Anserglob waterproofing mixture.
